Bangkok Orientation

For the first time visitor, the sheer size of Bangkok can be quite intimidating, but with a bit of research and a willingness to get out and amongst it, it is pretty simple to get a handle on how the city works.

The "Old City" sits on Rattanakosin Island on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River and it is here that many of Bangkok's key attractions can be seen -- many of which are within walking distance of Khao San Rd. From the Old City, Sukhumvit is a few kilometres to the east, while Silom sits to the southeast.

Silom and Sukhumvit are interconnected by Bangkok's two mass-transit systems, the skytrain and the subway. Khao San Road can be reached from Sukhumvit Rd by canal boat, and from Silom Rd by the Chao Phraya Express ferries. Buses, taxis, tuk tuks and motorcycle taxis also connect all parts of the city. Traffic can be very heavy at times -- where possible use the subway, skytrain or the river ferries to get around.

If you're planning on walking around a lot, be sure to drink a lot of water as otherwise you will dehydrate quickly.

Bangkok is a city where doing less rather than more can be a very good way to approach the city. Get up early before the temperature begins to skyrocket and do one of two things in the morning, take a long leisurely break for lunch (don't plan on venturing out again before about 14:00) and then see one more attraction in the afternoon. Spend the late afternoon and the evening sampling Bangkok's near endless supply of great food, drink and entertainment. Repeat this process for as many days as you're in Bangkok and you'll see your fill of the town at a relaxing pace -- try to see too much and you'll leave feeling like you need a holiday to get over Bangkok.

Where should I stay in Bangkok?

Bangkok has three main accommodation areas which are spread across different parts of the city;

Khao San Road
Within easy walking distance of the Chao Phraya River, and packed with over 100 guesthouses and hotels, Khao San Road is the heart of the backpacker scene in Bangkok. Aside from the express ferry, Khao San is served by the public bus system.

Sukhumvit Road
Stretching out to the east of the city, Sukhumvit is Bangkok's expat ghetto and is characterised by 3-5 star hotels, excellent restaurants and nightlife and good mass-transit access.

Silom Road
As close to Bangkok gets to a CBD, Silom has a mix of mid-range through to business hotel options along with a handful of budget places in the Soi Ngam Dupli area. Popular for its street markets, excellent food and vibrant nightlife, the area is also very well served by public transport.

More information
Take a look at our story: What is a good guesthouse in Bangkok? for more information.

What are some good Bangkok resources?

Aside from Travelfish, the best way to get the most out of Bangkok is to pick up a good map, a guidebook and to make a visit to the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT)... you'll need the map to find them ;-).

Maps

There are hundreds of different Bangkok maps -- available as free-standing maps (for sale and free), in magazines, brochures and various flyers. Some of the more popular maps of Bangkok include (affiliate links):
Lonely Planet City Map Bangkok
Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok
Periplus Bangkok Travel Map
International Travel Maps and Books Bangkok City Map

Tourist office

The Official Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) office is extremely inconveniently located on Phetburi Road, although they do have two information counters at Don Muang International Airport. Be wary of other travel agents pretending to be an official TAT office -- the real TAT does not sell any kind of tour or trip whatsoever. Contact details for the official office are:

Tourism Authority of Thailand
1600 New Phetchaburi Road, Bangkok 10400
Tel: (02) 250 5500 (120 automatic lines)
Fax: (02) 250 5511
http://www.tourismthailand.org
center@tat.or.th
Open daily 08:30-16:30

TAT Tourist Information Counters
Arrival Hall, Terminal 1, Don Muang International Airport
Tel: (02) 504 2701-2
Open daily 08:00-24:00

Arrival Hall, Terminal 2, Don Muang International Airport
Tel: (02) 504 2703, (02) 535 2669
Open daily 08:00-24:00

TAT Call Centre 1672
Operation hours 08:00-20:00

Bangkok Guidebooks

Loved or loathed, just about every traveller and backpacker you meet will have one of these. Here are some of the best-known publications (affiliate links):

Lonely Planet Bangkok
Mini Rough Guide to Bangkok
Moon Handbooks: Bangkok
Frommer's Comprehensive Travel Guide: Bangkok

Bangkok Newspapers

There are two main English news daily newspapers in Bangkok, The Bangkok Post and The Nation. The Post runs its travel section on Thursday, the Nation on a Wednesday.

The Bangkok Post
The Nation

Who do I contact in an emergency in Bangkok?

In the unlikely situation that you need to be hospitalised, rest assured Bangkok has some of the best hospitals and highest standards of medical care in Southeast Asia. Likewise the Tourist Police can be very helpful in an emergency.

Hospitals

Top hospitals in Bangkok include:

Bangkok Hospital
2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Rd, Bangkok 10310
Tel: (02) 310 3000
Fax: (02) 318 1546
http://www.bangkokhospital.com/

BNH Hospital
9/1, Convent Road, Bangkok 10500
Tel: (02) 686 2700
Fax: (02) 632 0577-79
http://www.bnhhospital.com/

Bumrungrad Hospital
33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua), Bangkok 10110
Tel: (02) 667 1000
Fax: (02) 667 2525
http://www.bumrungrad.com/

Samitivej Hospital
133 Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok 10110
Tel: (02) 711 8000
Fax: (02) 391 1290
http://www.samitivej.co.th

Police

The Tourist Police can be contacted anytime, anywhere in Thailand be telephoning 1155. The Bangkok police also have booths at most major traffic intersections. If you cannot find a police officer in an emergency, try the first office or storefront you can find.

http://tourist.police.go.th

Telecommunications in Bangkok

Internet

Internet cafes are scattered all over Bangkok, particularly in tourist areas. Rates are extremely low -- as little as 20B per hour. Wireless access points are slowly becoming more common at cafes and some restaurants and bars.

Common needs in Bangkok

Banks

All major Thai banks have their head office branch in Bangkok. ATMs can be found all over the city, often near 7-elevens and also within skytrain and subway stations. Some of the main banks include:
Bangkok Bank
Kasikorn Bank (previously Thai Farmer's Bank)
Bank of Ayutthaya
Thai Military Bank
Siam Commercial Bank

Foreign Banks
Standard & Chartered
HSBC

Post office

Central Bangkok GPO
40-42 Chareon Krung Road
Bangkok
Branch offices are in all districts of Bangkok. Small postal agencies can also be found in some skytrain stations.
http://www.thailandpost.com

Immigration office

Immigration Bureau
507 Soi Suan Plu Sathorn Bangkok 10120
Office hour: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 16:30, closed weekends
http://www.immigration.go.th

How do I get around in Bangkok?

Public transport

The Skytrain
The Skytrain has two lines, one that runs from the north to the southeast and the other which loops around from the west to the south west. Of the two mass transit systems, it is the skytrain that is more useful for foreign travellers. The two lines intersect at Siam. Fares depend on distance travelled, but the maximum fare is 40B and there are a range of passes available for frequent users. Common stations that are of use to foreigners include:

Mo Chit (for weekend market), Victory Monument (for bars and restaurants and shopping), Ratchathewi (for Panthip Plaza) Siam (for entertainment and shopping), Chidlom, Phloenchit, Nana, Asoke and Phrom Phong (all for guesthouses, hotels, entertainment and shopping. Asoke also interchanges with the subway.), Ekkamai (for the eastern bus station).

National Stadium (for guesthouses, hotels, entertainment and shopping), Ratchadamri (for hotels and shopping), Sala Daeng (for hotels, entertainment and shopping. Also interchanges with the subway here.) and Saphan Taksin (for hotels and connection to the river express boats).

Explore Bangkok by BTS
For information on points of interest near some of Bangkok's skytrain stations, check the following stories written by a Bangkok resident.

BTS Map
For a larger version of the Bangkok BTS route map, click here.

http://www.bts.co.th

The Subway
Bangkok's newest mass transit plan, the subway runs in an eastern arc from Bang Sue in the far north to Hualamphong train station downtown. It interfaces with the skytrain at three points -- Chatuchak Park in the north, Sukhumvit in the middle and Silom towards the end. For travellers, the most useful stops are the aforementioned three along with Lumpini (for Lumpini Park and Soi Ngam Dupli) and Hualamphong which will deposit you right at the railway station. To travel from top to tail costs 36 Baht and takes about 25 minutes.
http://www.bangkokmetro.co.th

Public Buses
The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) has a comprehensive bus system that covers the entire city. Fares are very low, so if you plan on exploring the city, invest in a bus map that marks all the main routes. Not all buses have the destinations marked in English, so it is best to go by the numbers as conductors often will not be able to speak English.
http://www.bmta.co.th

Taxis
For the money, Bangkok has some of the best taxis in the world. Affordable and comfortable, your biggest concern is likely to be the high speeds a Bangkok taxi driver will accelerate to should the chance arise. There are a bunch of different taxi companies each with their own distinctive and very bright colour scheme -- sometimes Sukhumvit Road can look like it is awash with smarties as bright red, yellow, purple and blue, red and green and crimson taxis fly past.

Flag fall is 35B and the price goes up in 3B increments by either time of distance (depending on the traffic situation). If you use expressways, the passenger (that's you) is expected to pay all tolls. If you pick up a taxi from the official taxi stand at Don Muang Airport, there is a 50B surcharge.

Telephone bookings can be made by calling 1681 (there are other companies, but that is our favourite). There is a 20B surcharge for a telephone booking.

Taxis can also be hired for longer trips -- Bangkok to Ko Samet, Hua Hin and Pattaya are all common routes. In these cases there is a fixed price for the ride.

A tuk tuk on a Bangkok street Tuk Tuks
If there's a single sensation that sums up Bangkok, it's sitting in the back of a tuk tuk at about three in the morning as the driver tries his hardest to finally reach terminal velocity while tearing down Ratchadaphisek Rd. The high pitched scream of the vehicle's buzz-saw engine, the thrashing fairy lights hanging off the side, the oversized, perpetually flashing yet always ignored indicators and the frantic hunted-down look on your driver's face are all too common sights throughout Bangkok.

Mainly working the Bangkok markets and the tourist areas, tuk tuks are something that most visitors to Bangkok try at least once, but few expats choose to use regularly. They can be cheap -- if you know where you're going and know the right fare. If you know neither, tuk tuk drivers are notorious for overcharging and dragging passengers off to jewellery stores -- we'd say try one for novelty value, then go back to taxis.

They are handy for those with oversized bags or oodles of shopping. Of course if you're travelling around with a few wash pans full of live eels and a bag of freshly slaughtered chickens, then tuk tuks are certainly the way to go -- tuk tuks carry anything and everything -- including most things a cab driver wouldn't dream of letting into their taxi.

The number of people who can be fitted into a single tuk tuk is up for debate. Just remember the more people you cram in the more top-heavy it will become -- tuk tuks are pretty unstable when empty -- adding six drunk westerners tends not to help matters.

Motorcycle taxis
Motorcycle taxis are easily the fastest and most dangerous mode of public transport in Bangkok. As with tuk tuks, they are un metered -- unless you know the correct fare, it is a good idea to agree on a fare beforehand. Always wear a helmet -- your driver should have a spare (normally of appalling quality) which he'll offer to you. There is a fine for not wearing a helmet.

Motorcycle taxis are fast -- very fast. They'll ride between cars, on the footpaths and on the wrong side of the road. There are a lot of accidents (and knee re constructions) attributed to these guys. Buyer beware. Fares over longer distances tend to be comparable to metered taxi fares.

Bus stations

Bangkok has three main inter-provincial bus stations. Morchit to the north of the city serves northern and northeastern destinations, Sai Tai Mai to the west serves all southern and western destinations, and Ekkamai to the east serves eastern destinations. Bus timetables (in Thai only) are available from the Transport Company website.

Morchit (North and Northeastern bus station)
Phahonyothin Rd, Bangkok
(02) 272 0299

Sai Tai Mai (Southern bus station)
Boromrat Chonnani Rd, Bangkok 10700
(02) 435 1199; (02)434 5558

Ekkamai (Eastern bus station)
Sukhumvit Road Soi Ekkamai, Bangkok 10110
(02) 391 2504; (02) 392 2521

http://www.transport.co.th/

Train stations

Hualamphong is the Bangkok's central train station. Bangkok Noi is across the river in Thonburi (used only for trains to Kanchanaburi). Full timetable information can be found at the State Railway of Thailand's website. Hualamphong can be reached by subway, bus and taxi. Bangkok Noi can be reached by cross river ferry.
http://www.railway.co.th

Airports

Bangkok's new Suvanabhumi Airport opened in late 2007 and is already operating at close to capacity. While there are rumours the old Don Muang airport may re-open, for the moment it remains closed.
http://www.airportthai.co.th

Which route to Suvarnabhumi
The two most convenient routes to the airport are the north and south approaches, with the northern one being the better option. The northern route goes via the Rama 9 Expressway enroute to the Bangkok to Chonburi expressway, while the southern route goes via the Bangna-Trat expressway -- traffic can be very heavy on this route.

Transport: Taxis - getting to Suvarnabhumi
All taxis are able to drop off passengers at the outer curb on Level 4 (Departures). Note, only taxis which have registered with the new airport will be allowed to pick-up passengers. Initially this may lead some city cabs to refuse to take you to the airport as they'll not be able to get a return fare. This problem should fade over time as more taxis register. If you want to book a taxi, telephone 1681.

Transport: Taxis - departing Suvarnabhumi
Initially the plan was for no public taxis to be able to pick up at the terminal, instead arrivals would have to take a shuttle bus to a seperate "Transport Centre", with only limousines being able to pick up at the terminal itself. Thankfully that plan has gone the way of the dodo, and taxis are now permitted to pick up at the outer curb on Level 1. There is a 50B surcharge for taking a taxi from here, though there have been rumours that this fee will be increased to 100B. A typical taxi fare from the airport to downtown Bangkok should cost around 250B (before expressway tolls and the 50B surcharge).

Transport: Limousine - getting to Suvarnabhumi
There is a "Limousine Service Counter" on Level 2 (Arrivals). Fares are set at around 1,000B for central Bangkok and 2,000B for Pattaya. These rates do not include tolls.

Transport: Limousine - departing Suvarnabhumi
All limousines are able to drop off passengers at the inner curb on Level 4 (Departures).

Transport: Buses - getting to Suvarnabhumi
All buses drop off passengers at the Transport Centre, from there you'll need to get a shuttle bus (free) across to the terminal of your choice.

Transport: Buses - departing Suvarnabhumi
All buses will leave from the Transport Centre. You'll need to get a shuttle bus (free) from your arrival terminal to the transport centre. Bus fares to areas within Bangkok and Samut Prakan will cost 35B. Sample routes include:

1. Bus Number 549 - to Minburi
2. Bus Number 550 - to Happy Land
3. Bus Number 551 - to Victory Monument
4. Bus Number 552 - to On Nut BTS station
5. Bus Number 553 - to Samut Prakan
6. Bus Number 554 - to Don Muang Airport

Of the above, routes 3 and 4 are the most useful to tourists -- both dropping passengers off at skytrain stations.

Thanks to Kevin for this correction. There are also four dedicated "express hotel buses" which will that will run from 5am to 12 midnight, with a set fare of 150B. AE1, AE2 and AE4 take the expressway, so if you were planning on jumping off somewhere along the way, you'll need to rethink! The routes are:

AE1 to Silom
AE2 to Khao San Roaad
AE3 To Sukhumvit, Nana, Ploenchit, Worldtrade (now Central World Plaza) and Pratunam
AE4 to Hualamphong train station)

There will also be buses to provincial centres direct from the airport, including:

1. Bus Number 389 - to Pattaya
2. Bus Number 825 - to Nong Khai

Transport: Train
Plans are afoot for a train line from the airport into downtown Bangkok. While planned to be completed by 2007, don't hold your breath.

Departure Taxes
The Passenger Service Charge for international flights will be increased from Baht 500 to Baht 700, and for domestic flights from Baht 50 to Baht 100, effective as of February 1, 2007.

Inside the airport
After clearing immigration it can take 15 minutes to walk to the furthest domestic gate and 30 minutes to the furthest international gate -- bear this in mind when planning how long before departure you expect to arrive. Given the airport is a good 45 minute drive from downtown Bangkok, travel agents are advising people leave their hotel three hours before departure.

Hotels near Suvarnabhumi Airport
The closest hotel to the new airport is the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, with other nearby hotels including the Novotel Bangna and the Royal Princess Srinakarin Hotel, but unless you have some pressing need to stay near the airport, you'll be far better served by heading into downtown Bangkok.