Blindingly white with a small but glittering freeform pool, lovingly decorated Villa Kresna is hidden away on the beach-bound spur of Jalan Sarinade, a five-minute walk from the beach end of Jalan Abimanyu. A few years ago Villa Kresna lost around half of their land and a couple of years later it underwent a complete refurbishment -- and the results are impressive. If you're looking for a romantic hideaway a couple of dozen footsteps from the beach, and you're not on a tight budget, Villa Kresna should be on your shortlist.

I do believe one of those recliners is MINE.

Wandering down across the wooden deck from reception and the restaurant towards the upstairs-downstairs rooms takes you by the frangipani and palm-shaded aquamarine swimming pool with a few recliners backing onto manicured gardens. Each room spills out onto the terrace with table settings for breakfast and glass-faced wooden sliding doors opening onto the interior. Once inside expect cool tiles underfoot and well chilled and spacious bedrooms.

We remember the shabby chic furnishings as being more enticing pre-renovation -- the lounges in particular are now a bit incongruous, feeling like they've been swiped from a three-star motel half way to Canberra, but it's a minor gripe. Bathrooms are compact but clean and the air-con chilled.

There are two main styles: standards, which are bedroom and bathroom affairs, and larger suites (we were shown the Lotus Suite). The latter are definitely worth the extra money as you get an entire extra room and they're better positioned. We used to stay here with young children (us in the master bedroom and the kids in the "TV room") and as long as your kids can swim (the pool is unfenced), this is an excellent option for families.

The Kresna grotto -- blissfully deserted.

It's also a delightful choice for honeymooners and those just looking for a romantic few days near the beach without paying the earth -- just be sure to ask for a room away from the families (or go for an upstairs room for extra privacy). It's a small, intimate property and less suited to those looking for a raucous beer-sozzled vacation (unless you drink your Bintangs quietly to subdued Morcheeba).

We do love the swimming pool here -- the back wall is decorative stone, giving it an almost grotto feel, and the shady frangipanis tempt one to float the day away. It is however on the small side and if the resort is busy, you'll probably opt for the beach.

Must stop taking photos with swimming pool in it.

The rack rate is inflated but we were offered an almost 60% discount (from US$300 to 1,300,000 rupiah) without hesitation as a walk-in customer, which brought the rates down to quite good value for the standard. Significant discounts are available online. If you've plonked your parents in here but can't afford it yourself, consider Sarinade Inn just up the road, which, while nowhere near as nice, is a fraction of the price and still very close to the beach.

The beach here is home to a lot of surfboard rental places and when the conditions are right, this is a good, not-too-crowded spot to learn to surf. Last tip: head down to the beach, turn right and both fancy-pants bar/restaurant Kudeta and family-friendly La Lucciola are a 10-minute walk up the beach -- they'll bang on your wallet but the splurges, at least once, are worth it.

Villa Kresna Boutique Suites
Jl Sarinade 19, Seminyak
T: (0361) 730 317
F: (0361) 732 847
info@villakresna.com
http://www.villakresna.com

Check rates at Agoda -- best price guarantee.

Photo gallery

I accept that I won't win any headline writing awards for the title of this piece, but really, for all those who want to complain about how busy Bali is these days, how bad the traffic is, how you can't swing a cat without hitting a drunk Australian in Kuta, how Ubud is under attack by Eat, Pray, Love yoga mat-wielding tourists... for God's sake, get out of there and make a side trip to Sidemen!

It's the simple things.

It's about an 80-minute drive from Sanur to get to Sidemen -- add on another 30 minutes if you're coming from Kuta (if you must go to Kuta, alright, I shall help you leave). What you'll find is a pretty little sprawling village, sprinkled with a decent range of places to stay, and more under construction while we were there (so perhaps the hordes are coming). Pretty much everywhere will have views overlooking yawning ampitheatres of terraced rice paddy.

Just another restaurant view.

You aren't exactly spoiled for choice when it comes to things to do in Sidemen, but this is the point. Put your feet up, enjoy a view of Gunung Agung punctured prettily by coconut palms, and skirted by frangipani trees, hibiscus bushes and blushing chilli plants.

Stunning Agung.

Read a book, have a swim if you're staying where we stayed (Uma Agung -- the only place we believe with a pool) and go for a wander. Our receptionist told us we could hire a guide for 60,000 rupiah per hour (no matter how many people in your group) and recommended a hike to a temple up on a nearby hill that takes around three to four hours return; you can also make a day trip to Besakih from here pretty easily.

One of the older verandas at Uma Agung.

While our hotel was at the pricey end of the spectrum, it was still definitely good value for money. For 450,000 rupiah per night ($60 during high season, we were warned) we had a spotless, spacious room that chilled deliciously from dusk onwards, making air-con unnecessary but one of the two comfy duvets provided essential.

We had a veranda with chairs directly overlooking the infinity-edge pool. If you're travelling with kids, be warned that there are quite a few steps here, though my 3.5 year old was okay to wander around with minimal supervision -- that is, I kept him within eyeshot at all times but didn't hover. The pool had a decent little shallow splash area that was perfect for him, though older kids intent on having fun may need to be carefully watched at the edge as the drop over the side is about three metres or so high.

Our room, top left. Ask for it by name: new room upstairs overlooking the pool.

The deckchairs were a little on the tired side, but the lush, obviously carefully maintained gardens were gorgeous. While WiFi is unavailable, internet access is available at the reception if you simply have to check in (and we got a reasonable 3G signal).

We found the restaurant a little on the slow and uninspired side, but a few other places lie within easy striking distance, so if we'd stayed longer than a night (sad face) we could have mixed things up a bit. Service was friendly and obliging.

Just another view from the street.

The road getting to Sidemen is a little underwhelming and quite potholed -- trucks ferrying sand from a nearby river can slow things down. You'll catch a few glimpses of prettiness but it really isn't beautiful until suddenly, you're there -- thinking about all those silly souls elsewhere.

Tags: Sidemen

This isn't a piece about seeing all the sights around Ubud at a cracking pace, but rather about suggesting some tips on doing what one can really do best in Ubud: chill out, eat, relax, eat, take it easy, eat, hang out... eat -- you get the picture.

No sights. Just treats. Just this one day.

Check into your hotel -- see our recommendation below, or choose from our overall picks here -- in the late afternoon, and make a stop somewhere like Three Monkeys for a drink as you ease into the vibe of Ubud.

Chill, man.

Then head over to the Yoga Barn, a 20-minute walk away on Jalan Hanoman, for a sunset session of Iyengar-inspired restorative yoga. The frogs and crickets and other insects will come out to perform a fantastic orchestra as a few dozen yogis lay around in various positions of repose, eyes closed and breaths deep and energising; this is a great way to sort of sink into Ubud's embrace. (I've covered the session in more detail here.) A drop-in class is 110,000 rupiah.

Shhh!

Jump into a transport car as soon as you're back on the street and head up to Spa Hati for a late massage session. This spa is a little out of the way but go on, make the effort in the name of a good cause. The cute outdoor massage room, with sliding doors and surrounds for privacy, is something a little special in this price range -- a one-hour "blissful dream" massage is 165,00 rupiah -- this compares to say US$69 dollars for a one-hour Balinese massage at the much more upmarket Maya Ubud spa.

The next morning, have your hotel breakfast, but if you take our suggestion on where to stay you may want to head out instead -- Tutmak does super coffee and great breakfasts too.

Protein and coffee and you're ready for yoga... in a bit.

Get in early and you won't have too full a stomach for a session of yoga at Taksu, a short walk away. Check the schedule -- there aren't as many classes as at the Yoga Barn -- the Barn's schedule is here -- but you'll likely find something that fits and the little oasis of a spot is worth making a detour for while you're on your relaxation retreat.

Taksu also offers an array of alternative therapies and massage treatments -- you could do worse than hanging around for a few hours in their spa.

Zen magic.

Meandering back along Dewi Sita, a top good-for-you spot is Soma, where a range of delicious juices are on offer with raw treats and meals as well.

Treats that are good for you, of course.

Juiced up, if you haven't had a Taksu session, stop at one of the two Reflexology Bali spots on the same road. A one-hour foot, hand, back and shoulder massage costs 110,000 rupiah -- again, to compare, you're looking at 425,000 rupiah for a one-hour session of reflexology at the spa at Alila Ubud. Simply but tastefully decorated, an hour getting your foot knots worked out here will prepare you for a spot of window shopping.

Put your feet up. But not as high as the sign.

From Jalan Dewi Sita, loop around Jalan Monkey Forest, Raya Ubud, and back down Jalan Hanoman to window shop your way past some of Ubud's retail offerings. We've already written a piece on shopping in Ubud -- while a lot is still relevant, we were amazed how many new places had popped up since our last visit this time around.

Oooh, shiny!

By the time you get to Hanoman it'll be time for lunch -- look no further than Clear Cafe for an amazing, your-body-is-a-temple meal. And they have takeaway biscuits. If you're keen on trying Balinese food though, stop at Ibu Oka's, close to the junction between Monkey Forest and Raya Ubud.

Did we mention this is all about treats?

For your afternoon hedonistic splurge, book into the small and basic but decent Sang Spa 3 on Monkey Forest. In terms of facilities, this spot makes an effort, but it's at the budget end of the spectrum. The massage I had here -- my first-ever four-hand treatment -- was superb and professionally done. The one-hour "good karma" massage was 220,000 rupiah -- a four-hand massage at the Four Seasons Sayan? 75 minutes is 1,650,000 rupiah.

Be warned: I was hit by a motorbike going down one-way Jalan Monkey Forest the wrong way on my way here, so do keep your wits about you.

A simple spa, a simple state of mind.

Ubud is your oyster when it comes to dinner -- you could undo all your good work with a few martinis at Naughty Nuri's, but if you want to stay on track, a meal at Kafe would do the trick -- they're open until 23:00 daily.

Where to stay?

We have already recommended Ubud Lestari as a great, family-friendly place to stay but if you're on your own little retreat, it also works perfectly. It's spotlessly clean, tasteful, central, spacious, has a pool and paddy views, and you won't see too many other people as there are only a handful of rooms. The only hiccup here is getting a booking, as the staff, though friendly, don't speak great over-the-phone English.

Wishing for seven days...

I actually began my stay at Merthayasa Bungalows, also on Monkey Forest Road, as Ubud Lestari said they had no rooms when I called ahead. But when I dropped by they did; I didn't hesitate to forfeit almost a night's payment to move, as when I had pointed out the table in the room at Merthayasa as being dirty, the staff member simply brushed the pile of plastic tags and knots of human hair onto the floor. Nice! Expect to pay 350,000 for a fan-cooled room (air-con optional 50,000 extra) at Ubud Lestari.

Happy hedonistic relaxing!

Tags: Taksu, ubud lestari, Yoga Barn

I'm still in the post-festival glow of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2011 so thought I could wring out one more post about how great it was.

Balinese dancers and future novelists at the UWRF. Photo courtesy of Chris Gosfield.

I had, as I hope my posts conveyed, an excellent time. I'd never been to a writers' conference or festival before so the entire experience was a new one, and far exceeded my expectations. My favourite part of the festival was the opportunity to meet so many like-minded souls -- both readers and writers. It was rare to have a conversation with anyone and have them not turn out to be incredibly interesting (and if they weren't, I could always fall back on talking about myself).

I'll admit that as a non-Australian, I wasn't familiar with a lot of the writers featured at the event where Aussies skewed heavily. This was wonderful in its own way, though, because I came home with a long list of previously-unknown books that I plan to read in the coming months. I'll also admit that I didn't know who Paul Kelly was, apart from the fact that Sam told me I really should listen to his stuff. Nevertheless, I knew to be impressed when he sat at my table and later, bought us a round of drinks [ed: name-dropper!].

Some of my particular favourites were: getting to see Agustinus Wibowo's amazing photographs, making filthy jokes with DBC Pierre, getting writing advice from Meg Mundell, being inspired to read poetry by Jaya Savige, hearing James Oseland, the editor-in-chief of Saveur, talk about food, finding a soul mate in Benjamin Law and hearing Trinity, Indonesia's leading travel writer, talk about her experiences at nude beaches.

But mostly, just being around a group of sharp, literary people was a pleasure and an inspiration.

Here are a few tips for 2012:

* Sign up for workshops and special events early. By the opening of the festival, most were already sold out.

* Book your Ubud accommodation early. Although there's lot of accommodation in town, you'll be happy to have that out of the way.

* Read the featured writers' books! I wish I had known I was going a little sooner, because I would have done a lot more reading, and had a lot more to talk about at the festival.

* Don't think too much about punctuation in the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival title. This is a recipe for head-wrecking.

As Time magazine pointed out in April, and people living and travelling in Bali over the past few years know only too well, the island is a ticking environmental time bomb. Want to travel to Bali but not be part of the problem? We've written elsewhere about how to travel green in Southeast Asia, but here's how to make your impact lighter in Bali.

Slow down enough to enjoy dawn at Pemuteran.

Travel less, see more. You've likely already burned a load of fuel in getting to Bali, so chill out once you are here. Settle into one spot and savour it. Walk. Cycle. Chat. There really can be a lot happening in what may seem like quiet places at first. You can easily while away a few weeks just relaxing around Ubud, Pemuteran or Nusa Lembongan, for example.

Travel to off-the-beaten path places (and then linger -- see above). Don't add to the congestion that already exists in places like Kuta and Seminyak. Plan in advance and check out some of the quieter locations that don't see much traffic: a beach on the Bukit, a quiet spot in the mountains or somewhere riverside with a view.

May have the wrong light bulbs, but not a private pool villa in site here in Munduk.

There's not really any effective environmental certification system in Bali (or elsewhere in Southeast Asia) so use your own noggin instead when it comes to choosing a green place to stay. It's really only some higher end places that have deliberate green philosophies, such as Desa Seni or Fivelements. Budget places may not be deliberately green and may engage in some non-green practices, but often their overall impact may be lower than your average larger, pricier hotel.

Enjoy low impact activities. Forget about parasailing or banana boat riding in Nusa Dua. Go for a herb walk, do a spot of bird-watching, a cycling trip, or yoga. Swing in a hammock and read a book. Come to Bali for a meditation retreat, or the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival.

Don't eat seafood, unless you educate yourself about what fish are still swimming around in sustainable numbers: over-fishing in Bali is a major issue -- a lot of fish at Jimbaran fish markets has actually come from Java and driven in by pickup. This site can help, though the names of the fish may be different locally.

Eschew imported items. Forget about eating Australian imported steak and wine -- go for the local organic chicken with rice and a glass of Hatten or Bintang instead (if you can afford it...).

They grow it, you eat it. Sideman.

You may not be allowed to have a say in how Indonesia is governed and policy-making, but you can choose where to spend your money. Spend on businesses that make an effort to stay green. Eat at organic restaurants, such as Kafe or Manik Organik, and get your washing done at organic laundries, which are starting to pop up (so far we've seen them in Ubud and Sanur).

Don't be horrified at the thought of staying in a cold-water, fan-cooled room -- if you're staying beachside during parts of the year, you may not even need the fan.

Use as little water as possible. A lot of Bali's water supply is ground water, and it's diminishing quickly. Have short showers, not baths. Water run off may go directly into the ocean or waterways in Bali, so don't add to the problem of problem by using non-biodegradable products -- use organic soaps, shampoos and conditioners. And of course, as goes for anywhere, don't get your bed linen and towel changed daily.

It's obvious that you shouldn't litter, but go the extra yards and make a small effort to pick up litter. You'll clean up a little, and hopefully guilt others -- both travellers and locals -- into doing the same.

Don't accept plastic bags when you're shopping and don't buy plastic bottles. Go for a snorkel somewhere like Pemuteran or Menjangan island and you'll see why (it follows that these are good spots to do a mini-cleanup). Bring a few reusable bags and a reusable drinking bottle instead -- you can refill at a lot of cafes.

Tags: environmentally-friendly, green, litter, organic

Sometimes you don't want to go sightseeing, you don't want to learn to surf, you don't want to climb a volcano, but you do just want to have some down time. Here are a few of Travelfish.org picks for places to stay for some down time in Bali. These are mid-range to upper end places, so if you're on a budget, dream a little here then check back in a few weeks -- we'll do a budget getaway wrap as well.

Desa Seni
Magical Desa Seni is one of our favourite spots in Bali, though it certainly comes with a price tag attached. The eco-friendly resort is a collection of antique-filled houses from around the Indonesian archipelago nestled into lush, colourful gardens. Loads of yoga is on offer at their beautiful open-air studio, with retreats held intermittently and plenty of other alternative-style events scheduled as well. The food is organic and scrumptious, and the pool deliciously cool. It's a bit of a hike to get down to the beach or anywhere else, so this is a great spot to just chill and do nothing.

Homestead Bali style.

Desa Seni Jalan Subak Sari 13, Berawa T: (0361) 844 6392 www.desaseni.com US$150 - $385

Ubud Lestari
This simple little spot off Monkey Forest Road manages to combine tranquility with being in the centre of things in Ubud. Go for one of the new rooms out the back with paddy and pool views. Though the rooms have all the amenities you could want: air-con, hot water, fridge -- don't expect any frills on the service front. A simple (um, think white bread and cowboy coffee) breakfast is served on your terrace, but with such great cafes a stone's throw away you may want to skip it and head out instead. For the price, this place is exceptional.

Oh no! Wet deckchairs!

Ubud Lestari Monkey Forest Road, Ubud T: (0361) 972 797  www.ubud-lestari.com 300,000 to 600,000 rupiah

Life in Amed
Grab a few friends and rent the stunning house at Life in Amed for a quiet getaway just a few hours' drive from the south of Bali (or try one of their smaller rooms if that's not in your budget). Hanging around doing not too much is the name of the game here, though the snorkelling directly off the black sand beach is good or you can hire a jukung to take you for a scenic or fishing trip. Lounge by the small pool if that's too much to contemplate. Their restaurant is good, but Sails is also just a short walk away for something different.

Keeping the view a surprise

Life in Amed Lean Village, Bunutan, Abang, Karangasem T: (0363) 23152 www.lifebali.com 600,000 to 3.2 million rupiah

Temple Lodge
This little spot looking out over Bingin Beach and along the coast of the Bukit is a great relaxing hideaway. Fantastic views, fantastic food, fantastic peace and quiet -- it's got a sort of hippy-gone-upmarket feel to it. The Coral Cliff room is actually carved out of the cliff. You won't find a loo towering more highly over the Bukit, we don't think. Watch the waves or read by the pool, but the place is quite isolated so you probably won't want to leave.

As close as you want to get to Dreamland.

Temple Lodge Jalan Pantai Bingin T: (0857) 3901 1572 www.thetemplelodge.com/ $60-$160

Pondok Sari
Like many of the larger resorts in Pemuteran, Pondok Sari runs from the road all the way down to the beach where it empties out to a near-beachside pool and a restaurant bar area . The star attraction here are the deluxe rooms, but they're better described as two floor suites, with the living area downstairs and a layabout sala, day bed area area upstairs. The decor is heavy on the decorative wooden panel side of things but it didn't strike us as overdone. The standard rooms are, well, standard Bali-style cottages and immaculate inside. They're more than comfortable and, for the price, excellent value.

My other house is concrete.

Pondok Sari Western end of the beach, Pemuteran T: (0362) 94 738, (0813) 379 44333 www.pondoksari.com/ 500,000 to 1 million rupiah

Tags: hotels, quiet

You've got the fancy invitation and you just can't say no to this relative: you've got to head to Nusa Dua, Bali for the wedding even though you can barely afford the airfare. You won't find any budget rooms in Nusa Dua proper -- the sterile, manicured enclave specifically created for five-star resorts. But just up the road, a short cab ride away in what is strictly speaking Tanjung Benoa, or Cape Benoa, you will find Pondok Agung Homestay: a cheap, excellent hotel/guesthouse that will possibly having your less well-researched relatives wild with envy.
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Tags: homestay, Tanjung Benoa