From Lovina it's an easy ride along the northwest coast of Bali to reach the diving and snorkelling beachside hideaway of Pemuteran. The road skirts the coastline for much of the way and aside from the rising hills to the south it's really a bit of an uneventful ride, with junction town Seririt being the only settlement of any size that you'll pass through.

Bye bye Lovina!

Compared to the mirror image road that runs along the southern coast, this one is delightfully light traffic wise, and while a couple of minor points of interest are dotted along the way, most will choose to simply barrel between Lovina and Pemuteran.

If you are wanting to break up the trip, your first stop should be at the Banjar Hot Springs, some 11km to the west of Lovina: lookout for the sign reading "Air Panas Banjar". From the turnoff it is another 5km to the springs themselves and this is a hit especially with domestic visitors -- it's just a shame they're not further along the road from Lovina so you'd have more grime to wash off.

Wash off the grime at the Banjar hot springs.

For a more serious diversion, take a left when you reach Seririt and head inland (and uphill) to the mountain town of Munduk. We're actually covering Munduk later in this series so won't get into it now, but if you're not planning on heading further west to Pemuteran, Seririt marks the last point where you can divert inland.

Pemuteran is known for four things. It's famous for a trio of temples, a reef regeneration project and for being a jumping off point to both stunning Menjangan Island and also West Bali National Park. You'd think with this many highlights Pemuteran would be a bustling tourist town, but, while the beach is indeed lined with places to stay, it's actually a very sleepy spot - those in the know love it though. Most of those frolicking on the beaches of Kuta reckon this is too far a drive to bother with.

We disagree!

Before you even roll into town you'll pass by the three temples: Pura Pulaki, Pura Pabean and Pura Melanting. The easternmost, Pura Melanting, is arguably of most interest to casual visitors, so if you're after a quick taster, stop here.

Travelling with young kids means you always get to see sunrise. This one in Pemuteran.

Pemuteran is home to an interesting reef regeneration scheme, and you can snorkel right off the beach here. The coral is still busy being, umm, regenerated, but there are plenty of fish to gawk at.

The beach itself isn't one of Bali's best, but the setting, with mountains looming behind the ocean, makes for some great pics. At the eastern end of the beach is an active fishing village and should you be interested you could probably organise a boat trip from here.

Much of the beach is lined with mid-range and up resorts. Those on a budget will be off the beach, but don't fret as some good budget digs do lie on the off-beach side of the road.

It's more enjoyable to walk along the beach than over them there mountain things.

Once you're done with Pemuteran itself, take a trip to the pier for Menjangan Island, from where you can arrange a boat transfer across to the island for a spot of snorkelling (or diving). When the visibility is clear and when there isn't a ton of plastic on the surface (a common problem), the reef and fish here are world class and certainly the best we've seen anywhere in Bali so far.

Even the boat landings in west Bali are scenic.

The boat trip doesn't come all that cheap, and comes with a mandatory guide (who will snorkel with you) so try to rustle up a group in Pemuteran, else hang out at the pier and try to wangle your way onto someone else's boat. Allow a full day to really get the most out of a trip. The best sites are the "drop-off" and the "coral garden". Be sure to get the boatman to show you the bat cave midway between the two.

No Photoshop required. The water really is that blue.

The second trip out from Pemuteran is trekking into West Bali National Park. A trek here will take you through the forest to hang out with the local macaque monkey population and, if you're lucky, other animals. The forest is hot and humid and at times physically demanding, so take plenty of water. Long pants and long sleeve shirt are not necessary but sturdy shoes are and a moderate level of fitness is advised. Trekking can be arranged through any of the hotels in town or at one of the local shops advertising tourist services.

West Bali National Park and not a dodgy tailor shop in sight.

Recommended beds
In Pemuteran, budget travellers should head straight to Kubuku, while we suggest flashpackers make a beeline for Taruna Homestay or Tirta Sari Bungalows. If you want to spend more, we were very impressed with both Pondok Sari, while friends highly rate family-friendly Taman Sari. At the top end, Amertha Bali Villas and Matahari Beach Resort are the two luxe options in central Pemuteran.

Stormy skies on the Menjangan run.

Next stop? Medewi!

You must have been thinking we were never going to get out of Amed, huh?! Compared to the windy coastal route from Candi Dasa to Amed the road onwards to Lovina is a breeze. It's a long drive, but plain sailing with barely a hill along the way. That's not to say it isn't scenic, as you'll pass by diving hub Tulamben, lava flows, waterfalls, a bizarre art museum, and an old Balinese capital before rolling into Lovina just in time for some ikan bakar and a couple of chilled drinks.

Between Amed and Lovina there is a big hill

Immediately upon leaving the coastal strip of Amed you veer inland through Culik, then slowly start to work your way west along Bali's northern coastline to the diving centre at Tulamben. You'll note to your left the sweeping slopes of Gunung Agung rising up from the sea. When it erupted in 1963 lava flowed down through this area and you'll pass over great tracts of flow as you drive west, reaching Tulamben in some 45 minutes.

In 1942, the USAT Liberty was en route from Australia to the Philippines and was torpedoed by a Japanese sub in the Lombok Strait. The Liberty wasn't sunk however and limped westward trying to make it to the port at Singaraja. Like the Japanese sub it failed in its mission and ended up being beached at the village of Tulamben. There it lay for the next 21 years, till lava from Agung's eruption in 1963 pushed the vessel off the beach and back into the ocean — creating one of Bali's top diving destinations.

Les Waterfall is a minor diversion not too far from Tulamben

There's little to Tulamben aside from diving though and its stony beach isn't all that conducive to beach volleyball, so unless you've got diving on your mind, keep on moving. If you do have diving on your mind, there are a bunch of affordable hotels in Tulamben to choose from.

We got to ride most of the Tulamben to Singaraja stretch in the pouring rain. You get caught out on the motorbike in the rain and get wet and think "Ah well, may as well just keep on riding as I'm already wet." This is a mistake. There is wet, really wet, extremely wet and wetter than that still. The latter three stages of wetness are best avoided by taking shelter till the storm passes.

Midway to Singaraja you'll reach the astoundingly peculiar Art Zoo which is home to an American artist Symon, whose work has been described elsewhere as Matisse meets Warhol. It's well worth a wander through and quite good views from the upper reaches of the property can be had.

The powerful Git Git falls, south of Singaraja

Not long after leaving Art Zoo the road veers inland and inside an hour you'll be navigating the one-way streets and the hustle and bustle of Singaraja itself. Keep your nerve and follow the traffic and before you know it you'll be thrust out the other side of town from where it is just another 10 minutes to the sleepy black sands of Lovina. Once you're set up with a bed you can always pop back to Singaraja for a bit of a potter around.

Time out during a cremation ceremony in Singaraja

Like the area referred to as Amed, Lovina is actually a string of villages starting with Anturan then followed by Banyualit, Kalibukbuk and Kaliasem. Kalibukbuk is the centre of the "scene" with plenty of places to stay, eat and relax. Lovina is best known for its dolphins and you'll be near continually harangued to do a boat trip of one kind or another — that the dolphins keep coming back really left us wondering if they really are as smart as people say.

Early morning beachside at Kaliasem, Lovina

Lovina is fine for a couple of lazy days on the beach, but if time was short and we wanted a lot of beach time, this probably wouldn't be our first choice as the beaches really are just average. But chances are, if you've made it to Lovina at all, you've got a bit of time up your sleeve. It remains surprisingly rural with wide swathes of rice fields abutting a small (but growing) number of hotels, but going on the number of real estate signs all over the place one wonders how long the fields will remain as, at least by Bali standards, land is still cheap in these parts.

Invasion of the moronic land grabbers

Beaches aside, Lovina can be used as a base to visit waterfalls, including the impressive Git Git waterfall, and to the west of town the banjar hot springs are popular, but most would do well to pack a couple of books.

Relax at the hot springs

Recommended beds
In Tulamben, Bali Permai and Liberty Dive Resort would be our first two picks, though there are plenty of other places to choose from.

In Lovina, budget travellers should make a beeline for Harris Homestay, flashpackers to Rumah Kita, or, if you don't mind being a bit away from the action in Anturan, Mumbul Lovina. If you're looking to spend a bit more, Starlight is excellent value and Rambutan represents a great deal for families. At the upper end, Damai, up in the hills behind Lovina, is the premium option.

Next stop? Pemuteran!

The area commonly referred to as Amed is actually a series of villages and bays running along the northeast coast of Bali. Known for black sand beaches, calm waters, fine snorkelling and impressive scenery, Amed forms a low-key counterpoint to the bustling yellow sand surf beaches of southern Bali. With over a half dozen beaches to choose from and plenty of places to stay, first-time visitors can find the selection a little daunting, so here are some pointers and our pick of the bunch.

Scenery inland from Amed, Bali

First, let's get orientated. The name Amed is actually that of first village (when approaching from the west). It is followed by the villages of Jemeluk, Bunutan, Pupuan, Lipah, Lean, Selang, Banyuning and Aas. Some of these villages have multiple beaches, others share the same beach, but for the casual visitor little differentiates one village from another. Jemeluk, Bunutan and Lipah are the three most popular areas, Amed is the cheapest and Aas is the least developed (and, located to the far east, the most remote).

The best snorkelling is at Banyuning and Selang while Amed is the worst, closely followed by Bunutan. Banyuning is also home to the Japanese shipwreck, while on a recent visit we saw dolphins offshore from Selang.

Typical Amed beach scenes

All the bays are home to active fishing villages, so expect to share your strip of sand with a fair portion of the fishing fleet. There is ample opportunity to do a dawn boat trip on a fishing boat should you be so inclined. While some of the resorts clean the beach out front, some flotsam on the beach remains — especially in the off season.

The Amed backdrop from a fishing jukung

Amed isn't famed for its culinary scene and with good reason. You'll find ample and very affordable seafood but actual seaside restaurants are inexplicably rare (there are a couple in Amed and Jemeluk but precious few after that), and, assuming you don't have your own transport, you'll end up doing a fair bit of eating in whichever bay you choose to lodge at. There are a few standouts: Sails, Shanti and Kemulan Warung spring to mind, but there are some truly awful places as well — we recently scored a ball of deep-fried human hair in a plate of calamari.

Cheap places to stay around Amed
If you're on a budget and, especially if you do have your own wheels, the first village, Amed, is difficult to beat. Kadek Homestay offers tremendous value and some good value warungs are also clustered nearby. On the downside, the snorkelling here is mediocre at best. Your second option is to strike east to Good Karma (on Selang) or Eka Purnama (Banyuning). Both of these have rooms for under 150,000 rupiah per night. While the more central beaches have affordable offerings as well, they tend not to be as good value unless you're after air-con.

Flashpacker bungalows around Amed
If you're at the cheaper end of the flashpacker scale, Nana Homestay and Lily Amed (both in Amed village) are quite good value deals, but if you're willing to spend a little more you'll be able to get into the more central beach of Jemeluk. This beach has a broader choice of places to eat and better snorkelling. The picks of the bunch here are Geria Giri Shanti Bungalows, Villa Coral and Galang Kangin but there are quite a few other places to choose from. If you're looking for something more rustic and remote, Meditasi, way east at Aas, is what you're looking for.

Bungalows at Hotel Santai, Amed, Bali

Midrange family hotels at Amed
Amed has a good selection of family lodgings, much of it centred around Bunutan, and our pick would start with the Anda Amed. While it is off the beach, it's got a small but lovely horizon pool and the family rooms are both spacious and very well designed. Extra points for especially obliging staff. If you'd like something in a more Indonesian flavour, then the Santai Hotel is right on the beach and has a larger pool than the Anda Amed. Staff here also very generously hosed the vomit out of a baby seat when we arrived! If your kids need a quarter acre to tire themselves out at, then Arya Amed has some great deals on family-style accommodation set within a spacious lawn garden. Lastly, Life in Amed has beautiful gardens and gets rave reviews as a family getaway.

High-end hotels in Amed
If you'd like to spend a bit more, the resort scene in Amed was kicked off with Jepun Villas. This is an allround very classy operation, but it would want to be at these prices, especially given the long and steep climb down to the beach. Brand spanking new at Selang, in the so-newly-opened-they-didn't-have-uniforms-when-we-visited class, the Palm Garden Resort is beachside luxury in Amed. Their massive beachfront villas have very high rates, but we'd expect you to be able to get significant discounts with not too much effort.

Selang with the Palm Garden Resort in foreground

Getting discounts in Amed
Amed has a very specific high season. In June, July and August approximately three quarters of the breathing population of Marseille, Nice and Bordeaux descend upon Amed and the rates jump accordingly. At any other time of the year, all rates should be considered highly negotiable. During a recent visit in April 2011, we had an outrageously priced US$130 room offered to us for 300,000 rupiah (just over $30), including breakfast and tax, without even pressing too hard for a discount. The best places won't always budge on price, but if you're heading here in shoulder or especially low season, check online for competitive rates for Amed and/or pick up the phone and make a few calls — you'll be surprised just how much you'll be able to slice off.

That said, in high season don't expect any discounts at all and don't be surprised if your first couple of choices are full.

Amed viewpoint

How long to spend in Amed?
We've visited here a few times for a slow weekend — arrive Friday afternoon and leave Sunday evening — and we always leave thinking an extra day or two would have been good. If you've got the time, and especially if you enjoy snorkelling, allow at least four days as at least a few bays are worth trying out.

For those doing a quick loop of Bali, from Candi Dasa the next logical stop is Amed, a beachside series of bays about an hour and a half north of Candi Dasa. It's known for its black sand beaches, off-the-beach snorkelling and volcano vistas — it forms one of those all round "pleasurable place to hang around for a few days" type of a destination. We like it ... a lot.

Taking the back road out of Candi Dasa

As with the first section of our round Bali trip, there are a couple of routes you can take — the more direct route makes you more or less due north via Amlapura and Tirta Gangga with a hard right at the end, while the scenic route takes you via the coast road, snaking by Ujung Water Palace and the easternmost point of Bali. You know which way we're going to go right?

About 10 minutes out of Candi Dasa, the road winds and turns back on itself until you reach a layover for a shrine and viewpoint. We thought the summit was a mere stroll away, but it turned out to be a 45 minute more-than-strenuous slog to the summit. The views are spectacular, but when we found what looked to be an especially scenic vantage point to the north, we also found a six-foot stark naked Westerner standing there. He was friendly enough, giving us a polite wave, but we decided to keep the camera in our pocket. Aside from the odd nude Western dude, there are also a lot of monkeys.

Viewpoint: before tall nude guy

Back onto the bike we continued on to the turnoff to Jasri beach. Jasri was once another of Bali's great surfing beaches, but when the beach started to get sucked away, a retaining wall was built that forever changed the waves. You'll still see the occasional rider out here, but they're few and far between. There are two places to stay at Jasri Beach, Irene Homestay (which, when we last passed by in March 2011, was open but also for sale) and the charming and very secluded (and near impossible to find!) Turtle Bay Hideaway.

Dawn at Turtle Bay Hideaway

Turning around, once you're back on the main road, take any of the next few lanes to the right and dogleg your way through to the mainish road (yup you guessed it, no signposts) and follow it through to Ujung Water Palace. Allow at least an hour to wander the grounds, longer if you decide to set up camp for lunch.

Ujung Water Palace, near Jasri Beach, Bali

From here on you'll be sticking to the mostly unsignposted coast road. The only town of any real size you'll pass through before Amed is Seraya (where you take a right at the top of the hill — don't go straight ahead!). The road is narrow and very windy, but particularly scenic and there is close to zero traffic. Fine by motorbike or a car. There is a cluster of places to stay near Seraya (including the very well-regarded Seraya Shores) but after that there is close to nothing until the easternmost bays at Amed.

While much of the pleasure in this route is just following the winding road and enjoying the scenery, one very worthwhile diversion lies about half way through. You'll reach a small bridge with a signposted hard-right to Pantai Songan — take it!

Songan Beach, Karangasam, Bali

Songan beach is a glorious little black sand beach reached by a steep stone staircase and forms the perfect spot to take a refreshing swim along the way. There's space to park a motorbike, but if you're in a car you may need to park a bit further away. With the deep blue of the ocean, jet black sand and white fishing boats, this is an especially photogenic spot.

Banyuning, Amed

From Songan onwards just keep on going. Eventually you'll see the signpost for Golden Rock Retreat, a detox health resort marking the southernmost end of Banyuning village. From here the coast stretches for 10km or so with a half dozen beaches and villages till you reach Amed village proper. Each beach has its own pros and cons, activities and Amed has a range of hotels and guesthouses — I'll be writing about all that in the next entry.

We're starting our trip around Bali from Sanur just because that is where we happen to live, and we're aiming for Candi Dasa, a somewhat aging resort town to the northeast of Sanur. It's an easy 90-minute drive if you take the direct route, but we're not going to do that.

Bridge crossing near Sukawati, Bali

The most direct route is along the coastal Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra Bypass (we just call it the "Kusamba Road") — an Australian aid-funded road that is currently running about six millennium behind schedule. It's been in a half-built state ever since we moved to Bali three years ago but these days, the road heading toward Candi Dasa seems to be a lot closer to completion. The other direction is still a long way off being finished so for now there are still innumerable roadworks to dodge, along with plenty of trucks and other traffic.

An alternative inland route winds via Sukawati, Gianyar and Klung Kung to Padang Bai and Candi Dasa, but the first portion of that is also crowded with Ubud-bound traffic, so instead we opted to take the Kusamba Road as far as Ketewel, then take a left up to Sukawati, then dog leg our way left and right up through this rice-growing region till we eventually hit the south side of Gianyar.

A river crossing near Sukawati

There are no signposts at all along this route so have a map and be prepared to get lost. Roughly speaking the route takes you through the villages of Giwang, Sukawati, Saba, Belege and Bona to Gianyar. The scenery is pretty with a couple of low slung bridges and ample rural scenery. Best of all there is no traffic at all.

Eventually, after much to-ing and fro-ing, you'll reach the south side of Gianyar. From here, unless you've got the time (and navigational skills) to go well out of your way to the north, it is a better idea to stick on the main road through to Klung Kung — the traffic will have dropped off anyway. On the east side of Klung Kung you'll pass an impressive weir, climb out of town and then it is a straightforward run down to Kusamba and, after that, our first rest stop, Goa Lawah (the Bat Cave temple).

The black sand beach at Goa Lawah is dotted with beachside warungs where you can pick up a bakso and a cold drink for a reasonable price. Once you're fed and watered, pop over and hire a sarong for a visit to Goa Lawah, one of Bali's cardinal temples. Allow an hour or so for lunch and a visit to the temple.

Bakso on the beach

From here it's about 30 minutes to the turn-off to the port town of Padang Bai and another 30 to Candi Dasa. Padang Bai is well regarded for Blue Lagoon — an excellent snorkelling spot — and the town also has some quite good seafood restaurants. Being a port town (this is the main ferry point to Lombok) there are plenty of places to stay in Padang Bai, from cheapie flophouses to quite luxurious digs, but overall we'd say it probably isn't our favourite spot in Bali.

If you do decide to stay here rather than Candi Dasa, note there is a third beach (beside Blue Lagoon and the main town beach) — it's just to the south over a rise. Plenty of warungs and good swimming is to be found at Pantai Kecil.

A seafood lunch at Padang Bai

So after you've had your lunch, head back to the main road and it is another 30 minutes to Candi Dasa town. Candi Dasa is worth at a minimum an overnight stay, but you could easily justify a three-night stay here with one day spent snorkelling at the offshore islands followed by an afternoon jaunt to the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, one day at White Sand Beach (Pantai Putih) and one day on a full-day trip to Tirta Gangga.

White Sand Beach near Candi Dasa, Bali

Or you could just grab a coffee at Vincent's and blow through the lot, taking the inland route, and be at Amed in an hour. But where is the fun in that?

Recommended beds
Both Padang Bai and Candi Dasa have plenty of places to choose from across all budgets.

In Padang Bai, backpackers on a budget should head to Pondok Wisata Tirta Yoga Inn while those looking for a few more creature comforts should opt for Hotel Puri Rai. While not great value, Bloo Lagoon takes the cake for the upper end.

In Candi Dasa, budget travellers will do well at Ari Homestay, flashpackers, especially those with kids should have Kelapa Mas on their shortlist (while the lack of hot water is a bit of an oversight, the beach terrace area swings the deal). At the upper end, we were impressed with the private pool villas at Villa Sasoon, while the resort offerings at Alila Maggis were seductive and especially impressive given the age of the property.

Just another Candi Dasa sunset

Next leg takes us from Candi Dasa through a remarkably scenic stretch along the coast road to Amed.

Bali is big, beautiful, round(ish) and dotted with interesting places to visit — perfect for a road trip. You can circumnavigate Bali in as little as a couple of days or as long as a couple of months, by car or by motorbike. We thought we'd zoom around the island and put together a suggested route for those looking to take in the main destinations, along with some more off-the-beaten-track spots. But before we get started, here are some general pointers to help you get the most out of the trip — and to have a safe drive around the island.

Getting wheels
We rented an old Honda Dream manual 100cc step-through for 30,000 rupiah per day for two weeks. Out the front of your hotel in Kuta rentals may be a little higher, as it will be if you're renting for a shorter time. Check the bike thoroughly. Make sure there is sufficient tread on the tires, that both the front and back brakes work, and most importantly that the horn works. The bike should have a yellow registration form (laminated) that will be stored under the seat — don't lose this! Your bike should come with a helmet. Wear it.

Check the bike carefully -- no monkey business!

Not getting booked
You've already read our piece on how to avoid motorcycle fines in Bali, right? In theory you must have either an international license for riding or an Indonesian motorcycle license. Both are easy to get. If you don't have one and are pulled over, expect to pay a fine/bribe on the spot — 50,000 rupiah is about right, though we've heard stories of people paying far more. Always be polite and expedite the situation as quickly as possible. They'll also fine you if you're spotted riding without a helmet. Unfortunately, they don't seem to fine people for driving without shirts.

Why Bali has so many drivers
Bali has horrendous signposting, and for years I've clung to the belief that it's some kind of elaborate scheme to keep the private-driver industry in business. What few road signs you'll see will invariably be obscured by trees, or only signpost a far distant place, like Gilimanuk, the westernmost point of the entire island. In theory there are kilometre markers every, well, kilometre, but they often are missing and when they are in attendance, are pegged with abbreviations to towns that you're probably not actually heading to or even aware of. All in all the road signage is designed for locals and people who already know where they are going — like your friendly Bali driver who offers you "transport" every morning.

Sometimes it is easy to know where you are going

Get an atlas
Assuming you're not planning on taking the main roads the whole way, to save yourself driving forever in circles or pulling over every 10 minutes to holler "Candi Dasa di mana?" at some startled farmer, you need a good map. The best street map, by far, is the Periplus Bali Street Atlas. The 160-odd page atlas is available at most good bookstores in Bali and retails at around the 200,000 rupiah mark. If you're planning on getting off the beaten track it will be the best 200,000 rupiah you spend outside of petrol. One flaw with the Periplus map is that they don't have enough line styles so there is no differentiation between a secondary road and a badly rutted trail fit only for a motorcycle.

Get a smartphone
If you have some kind of a smartphone, Google Maps is an excellent addition to this, not only because it is remarkably detailed, but also, far more usefully, it will show you where on the map you are! It does mark a lot of roads that don't exist or are really just for goats, but in most cases we found it to be pretty good. If you are smartphone-enabled, be sure to check out our range of iPhone travel apps.

Or go with the flow
Because turnoffs are seldom marked and because your atlas most likely won't mark street names, picking the right turnoff can sometimes be a bit of a case of taking a guess. Watch what other traffic is doing. If you're already on a secondary road and come to a junction where the correct direction isn't clear, look at what others are doing. In many cases, while the road goes four or five ways, most people will be going the way you are. Luckily there's always someone standing around to ask should you be truly baffled — they'll probably gesture the correct way before you even ask.

If only all signposting was this good

Petrol
The big Pertamina petrol stations are all over the place, and in between them you'll find innumerable vendors selling petrol of differing qualities out of old liquor bottles. You'll need to try really hard to run out of gas.

Not all animals are equal
Driving pecking order in Bali (and Indonesia for that matter) works on size taking right of way. Truck beats bus beats flatbed beats car beats motorbike beats bicycle beats pedestrian. This means you'll see drivers doing extremely idiotic things on the road. All the time. Sometimes what you see and will be required to deal with will fly in the face of what you may have been taught in your home country, but the golden rule is to drive slowly, always yield, and, most importantly, be especially aware of other motorcycles as they will be driving on the assumption that you know where they are. Don't try to retain your lane just because it is your lane — it's not — you're just borrowing it from someone bigger than you.

Just about the only type of vehicle you probably won't encounter

One more note regarding pecking order. A VIP-convoy, generally led (and tailed depending on perceived self importance) by police cars, takes precedence over everything.

What's next?
In the next entry we'll tackle the first leg of the loop: Sanur to Candi Dasa.