I'm often asked about my favourite places in Java and I often reply with expected responses such as "Bromo -- it is spectacular" and "Dieng -- a mystical paradise in the mountains". But I also mention places such as Karimunjawa and Ujung Genteng, both of which receive very few foreign tourists, but are stunning places well worth checking out.

Blues and greens and yellows.

Ujung Genteng translated literally means "end of the roof tile", which makes no sense at all really. Some think that it was once called Ujung Gunting which means "end of the scissors" -- which seems similarly farcical to me. But the theory goes that some parts of the land at Ujung Genteng are shaped like scissors and that people named it for the terrain. Sounds implausible, but I'm no historian. What I do know about is how spectacular this place is.

This beach is completely and utterly empty.

Ujung Genteng lies on the south coast of west Java about 110 kilometres from the provincial city of Sukabumi. The main reason foreign tourists visit this place is to surf the world famous "Turtles" break, but be assured that these visitors are few and far between, especially in the off season which spans almost the whole year. If you visit Ujung Genteng, you'll be lucky to see another foreign tourist during your stay.

Want to surf? It's not bad at Turtles.

Apart from the draw of the surf, there is simply mile after mile of beautiful coastline. During low tide, it can look quite unimpressive and when we first visited we thought we had stumbled upon a dud of a place. But low-tide doesn't stay around too long and the less impressive rocky shoreline soon turns into an shallow ocean of aquamarine water which takes the breath away.

The rocky shoreline can still look spectacular at low tide.

Because the water is quite shallow along most parts of the coast, it's possible to have a swim without feeling like you're going to get sucked out to sea. Locals are happy to offer to take you out snorkelling or spearfishing -- a great idea as apart from fish there really isn't a whole lot to eat around these parts.

Further up the coast a turtle conservation organisation operates a small hatchery. Most nights, large turtles drag themselves up the beach and lay eggs as they have done for millenia. Staff at the hatchery dig up the eggs and take them to the nearby office where they rebury them in order to ensure maximum survival rates and prevent poaching. These eggs are incubated for a time and the hatchlings released back onto the same beach their mother originally laid them on. Both of these spectacles can be viewed for a small donation on the beach outside the conservation office about two kilometres north of where most accommodation in Ujung Genteng is located -- it's a fabulous experience.

Turtle hatchlings running for the ocean.

Around 22 kilometres from Ujung Genting a spectacular three-pronged waterfall tumbles out of the forest into a clear rocky pool. During the dry season in the months of June, July and August water often doesn't flow over these falls, but throughout the rest of the year this sight is a worthwhile excursion from Ujung Genteng.

There's a fair bit of power in the waterfall at most times of the year

Ojeks usually charge 100,000 rupiah for the journey which is slightly over the odds, so it's imperative that you negotiate. Better still, hire your own motorbike and make the journey yourself: simply travel from Ujung Genteng back to Surade and a kilometre after Surade, take a right at the only major road. Follow that road for seven kilometres until a sign for the waterfall appears. A parking area is 500 metres from there. An entrance fee is payable to see this waterfall; locals warn of corrupt local government officials recycling tickets purchased by visitors and pocketing the money.

A wonderful place to watch the sun set

Ujung Genteng is one of those places that feels like your own personal hidden paradise. Accommodation is very basic, but those wishing to pay a bit more for some creature comforts are best advised to ignore all other options and grab the double room at Batu Besar for about 260,000 rupiah, dependent on season.

Getting to Ujung Genteng can seem like a bit of a hassle and a detour if you're planning on travelling from one end of Java to the other. But some of the highlights of Java are off the main tourist trail and spending an extra day or two can really change your experience.

Firstly, you need to get to Sukabumi from wherever you are. Buses depart from Bandung's Leuwi Panjang and take three hours and cost 21,000 rupiah. From Jakarta, the best bet is to get to Kampung Rambutan bus terminal for onward bus travel to Sukambumi. From Sukabumi's main bus terminal, you have to catch an angkot for 5,000 rupiah to the Lembur Situ bus terminal, also in Sukabumi, where buses leave for Surade (3.5hr/20,000 rupiah). There are two types of buses heading to Surade. Catch the biggest bus you can find as it will be much quicker.

Once in Surade, catch an angkot to Ujung Genteng for 10,000 rupiah, but don't be fooled by the angkot driver who will ask you to charter the angkot due to lack of passengers. Once in Ujung Genteng, you may need to hire an ojek to get to your accommodation, depending on its location. Our suggestion is to take a good look around at the accommodation as quality and price varies considerably and better deals are available once you get on the back of a motorbike and head north.

Ujung Genting is simply spectacular. It certainly is a bit of a hassle to get to, but the reward is this: absolute perfection.

Tags: beaches, Ujung Genteng

One of the great things about Indonesia is the diversity of the landscape. One of the great things about the Dieng Plateau is that it looks and feels completely different to almost anywhere else in Indonesia.

Villages cluster in the valleys around Dieng.

Sitting up in the mountains about 150 kilometres northwest of Yogyakarta, the Dieng Plateau is absolutely stunning: rolling hills terraced with vegetable gardens as far as the eye can see, boiling pits of mud and coloured lakes. This place has it all and surprisingly few foreigners visit outside of the peak season. In fact, whenever we've been there, we haven't seen one other independent traveller although your luck may vary dependent on the time of year you're there. Of course there are a few foreigners around on private tours, but even they are few and far between.

So what does this mean? Unless you visit in June, July or August, you are going to feel like an modern day intrepid explorer. Come in the peak season and you'll have a different experience which will be more convivial and shared with new friends.

It looks like the moon around here.

The main attractions in Dieng are the numerous temples and the geothermal area around Kawah Sikidang. These attractions form a simple loop which can be walked over the course of half a day. The first stop is usually the Arjuna complex, a group of temples built in the eighth century and reported to be some of the oldest in Java. The setting of these temples is stunning with mist-shrouded steep hills on all sides and farms surrounding the immediate area.

The main drawcard is the smattering of temples.

From the Arjuna complex, a short walk across the farmland takes you to Candi Gatokaca, just another old Hindu temple, but this time with a new view across the farms to the town of Dieng.

Next stop is Candi Bima, a further 800 metres down the road from Candi Gatokaca. It's the biggest of the temples in the area, but after having seen the previous temples, it feels like "just another temple". And it is unless you're into ancient Hindu temple history.

Just another weird coloured lake in the mountains.

Taking the turn off at Candi Bima takes you 800 metres to Kawah Sikidang, which for many will be the highlight of the circuit with its bubbling mud pit and strange hot earth. There are in fact two pits at Kawah Sikidang worth seeing, but the best one is filled with steaming mud which boils vigourously. Other features in the area include hot streams, strange small holes which are very hot and sections of earth with gas seeping out of them which is sometimes also hot. It's all crazy stuff and fascinating to explore. Also, the fried potatoes, tofu and tempe at the nearby warungs are a godsend and a fantastic pick-me-up.

If you're into boiling mud, Dieng is for you.

The last stop on the loop is Telaga Warna which translates in English to coloured lake. We don't want to criticise the person who came up with the name, but surely they could have been more creative! Anyway, the lake is simply a big blue thing surrounded by forest with a tall mist covered mountain as a backdrop. It's pretty, but most people will spend about 10 minutes here before heading back to the "comfort" of their rooms.

Temperatures in Dieng can be icy -- literally. Frosts can occur year round, but are particularly frequent during June, July and August when overnight temperatures often drop below zero. During the day when walking around, it's not necessary to be rugged up, but a light jacket and jeans are a good idea. At night, most homestays and guesthouses are positively freezing as there is usually no in-room heating. In addition to this, many homestays have tiled floors, meaning if you have to walk to the toilet from your bed which is piled high with blankets, every ounce of warmth will be sucked through the soles of your feet. Expect to breathe steam from your mouth during the night.

Valley after valley of crops.

All the attractions on the small loop can be visited on a daytrip from Yogyakarta if you hire a motorbike, but it is a long, long day and it is quite likely that it will rain along the way as you'll have to navigate through mountains. Factor in about 12 hours on the motorbike. By far the best way to see the loop is on foot and the only way to do this practically is to stay in town at one of the many homestays. Accommodation is usually around the 150,000 rupiah mark for a clean room with private bathroom or cheaper if you're happy to share a bathroom.

Rolling hills of Dieng.

Getting to Dieng from Yogyakarta requires heading by bus to Magelang, then Wonosobo, then Dieng. Factor in three buses, although you might get lucky and get a direct Yogya-Wonosobo bus, but don't bank on it. A bus trip from Yogyakarta to Dieng and back in one day is not recommended, but is possible if you are on a tight budget and timeframe. Bank on leaving Yogyakarta at 05:00 and getting back at 20:00.

However you see the Dieng Plateau, it is definitely worth a visit; aside from the things we have mentioned here, a bunch of other activities can only be done justice if you stay in the town of Dieng itself.

Tags: Dieng Plateau

Think of your ideal tropical paradise. Once you have that in mind, if it includes white-sand beaches fringed by palm trees, turquoise water so bright it stings your eyes, warm weather all year round, hardly any tourists and just enough decent accommodation to ensure you don't have to pitch a tent then the islands of Karimunjawa are your paradise.

Absolute paradise.

Located about 90km off the north coast of Central Java, the Karimunjawa Islands is one of those places that is amazing to visit, yet has few visitors. During non-peak times it is possible to go a full day without seeing another foreigner and this is probably due to the fact that it require visitors to Java to deviate from the normal route through the island which generally goes Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Bromo, Bali. But changing up that standard itinerary really allows you to access some amazing places such as these islands.

Hey, someone left this boat behind!

The main island is large for a remote outpost in the middle of the ocean, measuring about 25km long and 10km wide, with much of the southern section covered in jungle. Sandwiched between the jungle and the southern tip is the island's main town called Karimunjawa. This is where the vast majority of visitors stay, although it is possible to stay in a floating hotel in the middle of the ocean and at a high-end resort on one of the far flung islands.

The main form of accommodation in Karimunjawa is the homestay, where you are set up in a room in a family's house and can elect to either eat meals with them or purchase them yourself at one of the local warungs. The bathroom is shared in these homestays, of course, but all of them we inspected were clean and often reserved solely for guests, meaning you may be the only user of it anyway.

Where the bloody hell are you?

The main activities around these parts are snorkelling, diving and cruising around on a motorbike to explore the innumerable deserted white-sand beaches. Snorkelling is usually done by either arranging a boat through your guesthouse or heading down to the dock to find a local fisherman willing to take you out. The going rate is 300,000 rupiah for a five-hour boat ride to the outlying islands of your choice plus 30,000 rupiah per person for snorkelling gear. A variety of dive shops in town offer countless different options for diving on the nearby reefs. On our snorkelling trip we were a little disappointed by the coral bleaching which is underway across vast tracts of the reefs.

Just another stunning Karimunjawa sunset.

Because the main island is so large, a great way to explore is by motorbike, which costs 75,000 rupiah per day to hire -- more than you'd pay on the mainland, but worth every single rupiah as the far flung areas of the island have some spectacular beaches. The road is paved all the way to the north of the island, but most of the beaches are down the end of dirt tracks which are signposted but still easy to miss.

Our favourite of these beaches is Tanjung Gelam, a mere five kilometres from Karimunjawa town. Around Pantai Barakuda is a turtle conservation centre where you can observe staff going about their chores such as scrubbing baby turtles in order to remove slime. It's fascinating stuff.

Getting to Karimunjawa requires a ferry ride from the port town of Jepara, 2 hours by bus from Semarang. All but the cheapest of cheap will elect to take the fast ferry which only takes 1 hour 45 minutes and costs 69,000 rupiah. It departs Jepara on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. If you really must take the slow ferry, it takes six hours and departs Jepara on Saturday, Wednesay and Monday. Neither of these ferries depart if the weather is bad, so it is possible to get stuck on the island or in Jepara should you be unlucky.

Like a bus, but on water.

Until recently another ferry, the Kartini, travelled from Semarang to Karimunjawa then back to Jepara and generally had a mixed schedule that is hard to decipher. Needless to say, it had stopped running when we conducted our research due to mechanical issues and no one could say whether it would be up and running again. Still, even if it is running, the journey from Semarang on this vessel is not easy to arrange and requires you to head down to the port to buy a ticket.

So is it worth the journey to get to the Karimunjawa Islands? It all depends on what your definition of paradise is. Does this look like the sort of place you'd want to visit?

Tags: Karimunjawa Islands

When travelling in Indonesia away from the tourist mecca of Bali, accommodation options can sometimes feel antiquated and sub-standard. But surely when travelling to one of the country's best tourist attractions, things get better and cater for all tastes? Let's just say that the Gunung Bromo area is best known for its stunning vistas and less so for its trendy digs.

The caldera rim where many hotels are located in Cemoro Lawang.

This is all the more reason to get an idea of what's on offer before you arrive, lest you be stuck in a hovel when what you really want is a palace. Many of these places are included as options in the tours which are booked in Yogyakarta. Here is a selection of the best value places to stay when you're visiting Gunung Bromo.

Yoschi's Hotel (from 103,500 rupiah) is the best value for money option in town. It's a good four kilometres away from the Tengger Caldera, meaning you really need to rely on jeep services to get to and from Bromo, but because this is what people usually do anyway, it's not a big problem. A variety of rooms are on offer, including those with no bathroom and those with cold water bathroom, but all have access to communal hot water bathrooms which is a good thing because the cold water is icy. Rooms are strangely very cosy with warm lamps, thick blankets on the beds and solid wood floors.

One of a raft of more upmarket places in town, Cafe Lava Hostel (from 144,000 rupiah) is probably the only one worth the amount charged. The cheapest rooms are tiny and share bathrooms while the most expensive rooms have private bathrooms and TVs. The entire property is clean, its location is right in the centre of Cemoro Lawang next to the crater and there is an attached restaurant.

Meanwhile Bromo Permai (from 420,000 rupiah) wants to be the Hilton, but is far too dated to offer anything close to the luxury that one would expect from the prices charged. Sure, the hotel is situated right across from the stunning Tengger Caldera and each of the rooms has a modern TV and hot water bathroom, but the rooms have not aged well at all. Still, if you've got money to burn you might find this place fits the bill.

Right at the other extreme is Budi Homestay (80,000 rupiah), a real backpacker haunt and a good place for those on a tight budget -- though it's the sort of place where you'll say, "Ah, it's only a night!" when checking in. Only a night can turn into a nightmare for those used to Western comforts; a shared toilet welcomes guests as does a hot shower of questionable cleanliness. Still, you at least get a bed. But that's about it at Budi Homestay.

Budi Homestay -- budget digs.

Directly across from Budi Homestay in a good location, Losmen Setia Kawan (100,000 rupiah) promises so much and delivers so little. Rooms are grim as are the shared bathrooms, but it's cheap. So for those on a budget wanting to walk to Gunung Penanjakan and not able to get into Budi Homestay, this is a good option as viewpoint #2 is only an hour's walk away. Just don't complain that we didn't warn you how bad the bathrooms really are.

Cemoro Lawang landscape.

A few other places are on offer in town, but not much; it's quite surprising that someone hasn't built something like Yoschi's closer to the crater -- they'd make an absolute killing. Apart from these options closer to the caldera, there are a bunch of places on the road between Probolinggo and Cemoro Lawang that are more popular with local crowds rather than foreign tourists, mainly due to their isolation. If you're getting around in your own car or motorbike, these might be worth a look, but for everyone else it's not worth bothering.

Tags: Gunung Bromo

Volcanoes. They're the stuff of myth, legend and disaster -- Indonesia has volcanoes in spades accompanied by stories born out of tragedies that occur around them from time to time. Tangkuban Parahu, the active volcano close to the city of Bandung, has a cute story behind its name related to its shape rather than its deadly past.

The main crater of Tangkuban Parahu, Kawah Ratu.

According to Sundanese folklore, Tangkuban Parahu (literally upturned boat) gets its name from the story of Dayang Sumbi and her son Sangkuriang. Legend has it that Sangkuriang was banished by his mother at a young age for killing their dog which in some versions of the legend is also Sangkuriang's father. After many years, Sangkuriang wanders into a random village and meets a beautiful lady whom he wants to marry. This lady turns out to be Sangkuriang's mother, a fact which Sangkuriang denies. Of course, Dayang Sumbi doesn't want to marry her son, so she devises a plan designed to cancel the wedding. She asks Sangkuriang to create a massive lake and build a boat for them to travel in on their honeymoon, all to completed by sunrise the following day. Sangkuriang agrees to this immense challenge and summons a cast of spirits to assist. As the task is nearing completion, Dayang Sumbi becomes worried and summons some spirits of her own to trick Sangkuriang's spirits into thinking that it is dawn already, at which time they desert Sangkuriang. Sangkuriang now has no chance of completing the boat on his own and therefore kicks it in anger and it lands upside down in the north of Bandung where it still sits today.

Shops perched on the edge of the moody crater.

On a clear day, it's possible to see the upturned boat shape from central Bandung and one can see how such a tale could be so prominent in a society that saw this odd-shaped mountain every day.

Stories aside, Tangkuban Parahu is a fantastic volcano to visit for those not interested in hour upon hour of hiking, as is the norm for volcanoes in Indonesia, such as Gunung Bromo. In fact, it's possible to drive right to the crater edge of Tangkuban Parahu to grab a look at the immense crater below. Two moon-like craters at the summit of Tangkuban Parahu, Kawah Ratu and Kawah Upas, provide a stunning contrast to surrounding wildlife-filled forest. About a kilometre of walking on an uneven path takes you to the other side of Kawah Ratu, where Kawah Upas becomes visible and the crowds thin out -- bliss.

The rickety fence that stops people from getting too close to death.

A third crater, Kawah Domas, is accessible by foot from the main carpark. Legend has it that soaking your feet in the hot springs here has therapeutic benefits. The jury is still out on that one, but it makes for an interesting detour nonetheless.

You can get up close and personal with volcanoes in Indonesia.

Getting to Tangkuban Parahu has a reputation for being a bit of a chore for independent travellers. The cheapest option is to catch a black Subang minibus from outside the Hilton Hotel on Jalan Pasirkaliki, 300 metres west of the train station. This bus stops right out the front of the Tangkuban Parahu entrance and costs 10,000 rupiah.

Once at the entrance to Tangkuban Parahu, there are a number of different options for getting to the top. The cheapest is to walk the 4.5km uphill to an altitude of 1800m, but this is for the fit only. Others will prefer to search for a charter vehicle such as an ojek or angkot, but prices are highly variable dependent on a number of factors such as weather, enthusiasm of driver and how likely you are to walk if you don't get a good price. About 10,000 rupiah per person one way would be a good price. Getting back to Bandung is as simple as catching the black Subang bus from the entrance of Tangkuban Parahu to the centre of Bandung.

A ridge separating Kawah Ratu and Kawah Upas

It's advisable to head to Tangkuban Parahu early in the morning to avoid the crowds and the mist which both roll in around late morning. Although it's generally not cold enough at Tangkuban Parahu to require you to wear jeans and long sleeves, it's advisable to at least have a jacket packed as it does get quite cold when the unpredictable rain arrives.

Small lake at the bottom of Kawah Upas.

Discriminatory pricing is in full effect at Tangkuban Parahu with foreigners being charged 50,000 rupiah for entry versus 13,000 rupiah for locals or those with a long-term visa. Still, we reckon this place is well-worth a visit when in Bandung.

Tags: Tangkuban Parahu, volcanoes

Kawah Ijen is one of the stunning highlights of a trip through Java and is a regular stop on many tours departing from Yogyakarta and ending up in Bali. The usual way of getting to Kawah Ijen on a tour involves heading to the inland town of Bondowoso and making your way up to the crater's carpark via the rutted road and returning the same way. Independent travellers usually catch an angkot from Bondowoso to the final town before the crater which is serviced by public transport and then make the final ascent by ojek. But we here at Travelfish.org believe there is a better way for independent travellers to access Kawah Ijen if coming from or heading to Bali which saves time by using the access road leading to Banyuwangi, right next to the port from where ferries depart to Bali.

The acidic lake filling Kawah Ijen. Swimming not recommended.

Since Bondowoso lies inland in the hills 30 kilometres from the main highway which travels along the north coast of Java and Kawah Ijen is a further three hours from there, it takes much longer to travel via Bondowoso when travelling between Kawah Ijen and Bali than the alternative Banyuwangi route.

The surrounding mountains along the road to Kawah Ijen from Banyuwangi.

With this in mind, if travelling from Bali it is possible to hire an ojek in Banyuwangi for the journey up to Kawah Ijen, have the ojek driver wait for you to climb up to the crater. The ojek can then to take you onwards to the bus terminal in Bondowoso or to a waiting angkot in the first town on the way down from the crater that is serviced by public transport, Sempol. This way you can avoid having to backtrack and waste time.

Some 70 kilograms of sulphur waiting for human transportation.

The same is true for those travelling in an easterly direction from places such as Gunung Bromo. Buses from dusty Probolinggo on the coast below Gunung Bromo will take you directly to Bondowoso, where most will stay overnight before taking an angkot to Sempol early the next day. From Sempol it is possible to hire an ojek who will take you to Kawah Ijen, wait for you and then take you onwards to Banyuwangi or a further six kilometres to the ferry port for onward travel to Bali.

In the bowels of the crater.

The road from Banyuwangi to Kawah Ijen starts off in great condition, but as you get closer to the top, it deteriorates into something resembling the surface of the moon. It's steep, rocky and even cars have trouble traversing it. But that's part of the adventure of travelling this way. After a few voluntary motorcycle dismounts and some involuntary near dismounts, you arrive at your destination a good few hours ahead of most other travellers choosing the more circuitous route via Bondowoso.

We know this is not the moon because of the surrounding jungle (and the motorbike).

Whichever route you choose, the utlimate prize is witnessing Kawah Ijen -- and that makes everything worthwhile.

The prize that awaits those with determination: magnificent Ijen crater.

Tags: Banyuwangi, Bondowoso, Gunung Bromo, Kawah Ijen

Being one of Java's premier attractions, Gunung Bromo and the Tengger Caldera area get their fair share of visitors with many travelling straight from Yogyakarta via some sort of pre-arranged tour. It's not a bad option to take a tour from Yogyakarta, but one thing is almost gauranteed: you will be travelling via the town of Probolinggo, staying overnight in the town of Cemoro Lawang on the lip of the Tengger Caldera and the next day you will either be travelling to Kawah Ijen, Bali or back to Yogyakarta. A whirlwind tour if you like. But there is another alternative for those not wishing to take organised transport.

A river valley on the journey from Malang to Gunung Bromo.

If visiting the city of Malang, it is possible to reach the Tengger Caldera and Gunung Bromo much more quickly than taking the circuitous route of heading to Probolinggo and then up the hill to Cemoro Lawang. Better still, you can head to Bromo one way and depart the other, allowing you to see two totally different but spectactular sections of scenery that truly are a joy to behold.

Jeeps making their way across the savanna around the back of Gunung Bromo.

The route from Malang starts on the side of the road, looking for an angkot to take you to the Arjosari bus terminal. Luckily for you angkots travelling to Arjosari pass most main roads in town frequently from early in the morning to late at night. Look for any angkot with the letter A on the windscreen -- such as an ADL or GA -- and it will get you to the terminal for 2,500 rupiah.

Farming the incredibly steep slopes around Gunung Bromo.

Once at Arjosari, catch an angkot to Tumpang, 24 kilometres away for 5,000 rupiah. In Tumpang, things get interesting.

There are two ways of getting to the Tengger Caldera, Gunung Bromo and accommodation in Cemoro Lawang. The first and easiest way is to charter a motorbike taxi (ojek) to carry you and your luggage for 80,000 rupiah up the steep ridge, which affords some absolutely magnificent views. It gets cold along the way and long pants and a jacket are a good idea.

The second way of getting to the top is by jumping in a shared jeep, which departs from the Tumpang market, for 60,000 rupiah. The problem with this method is that the jeeps only leave when there are enough passengers, meaning that a long wait could be in order. Worse, they simply won't depart at all if enough people don't show up, so it's advisable to arrive early and with a backup plan to use an ojek if the jeep option doesn't materialise.

Dreamy savanna around the back of Gunung Bromo.

The good thing about heading to Bromo from this direction is that you get to pass through the savanna at the back of the caldera which is an incredible contrast to the Sea of Sand around the front -- something the vast majority of visitors to the area simply do not see. It is so impressive that we reckon it's a must-see if already in the area. The other good thing about this route is that it's easy to make a slight six-kilometre detour to the town of Ranu Pane where hikes to Java's tallest volcano commence from.

Of course, you can do this entire journey in reverse for the same price. It's a great way to do something a little bit different when visiting Gunung Bromo.

Tags: angkot, Gunung Bromo, ojek

Approximately 60 kilometres southwest of the bustling port city of Surabaya lies the dusty town of Trowulan. What on the surfaces appears to be just another bland and nondescript rural village among a long line of others in East Java is in fact a town that hides a beautiful secret. The secret is that this entire area housed the capital of the incredibly powerful and influential Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit empire which reigned throughout the 14th and 15th centuries and was also arguably the largest ever kingdom in Southeast Asia.

Candi Brahu.

Surrounding the town of Trowulan are a cluster of historical relics that were rediscovered in the 1800s and which have since been renovated to represent their original form. These relics, mainly in the form of temples, contain many architectural qualities seen in modern Bali, which gained this influence due to the massive migration of Hindu loyalists from Java to Bali during the decline of the Majapahit empire and the rise of Islamic sultanates in the 15th century.

Wringin Lawang: a gateway to what?

It's possible to visit these impressive structures by becak from the centre of Trowulan. The price will depend on how many you want to visit and how good your negotiation skills are, but expect to pay no more than 50,000 rupiah for a leisurely three-hour tour. Whatever the price, travelling by becak is a great way to get around the quiet backroads past rice fields, rural houses and beaming locals, who will delight at seeing a tourist making an effort to visit their neck of the woods.

The two most impressive structures in the area are the massive Candi Brahu and Candi Bajangratu. In the middle of rural East Java, these temples rise to about 15m above the surrounding manicured lawns and flower-speckled gardens. They're really quite impressive and the mind boggles as to why more people don't visit. These two particular temples are a usual stop on any becak tour, but it's best to make sure by informing the becak driver first.

Candi Bajangratu.

As well as visiting the relics surrounding Trowulan, an impressive museum about a kilometre southeast of the main highway is worth a look. The museum contains thousands of artifacts that have been found in the local area and are displayed with both Indonesian and English language explanations. For those with some Indonesian language skill or a good dictionary, there's also a small booklet for sale which goes into painstaking detail about the various purposes of the relics of Trowulan.

Although Trowulan is in the middle of nowhere, it's not too diffucult to get to by public transport. Firstly, a bus to the Purabaya/Bungurasih bus terminal is required. Public buses throughout Surabaya travel to this bus terminal and it is a matter of asking your hotel where the nearest bus route is, flagging down one of the buses with a Purabaya/Bungurasih sign in the front and paying the 3,000 rupiah fare for the 13km journey. Once in Purabaya/Bungurasih, touts will put you on the correct bus to Trowulan, with a ticket costing 7,000 rupiah. Just tell the driver that you are going to Trowulan and he will stop at the appropriate place. Upon arriving in Trowulan, plenty of becaks will be willing to take you on your half-day tour.

Candi Tikus, a religious bathing pool.

The reutrn journey to Surabaya is simply a mirror image of the original journey except that it will require you to flag down a Surabaya-bound bus from the main road.

This impressive attraction located so close to Surabaya is rarely visited by foreign tourists -- on our visit we noticed that only one other foreigner had been in the area in the previous 10 days; we think it deserves more recognition than this, particularly because it is an easy day trip from Surabaya.

Tags: history, museums, Trowulan

We've recently been writing about travelling in Java, the island immediately to the west of the tourist mecca of Bali. One of the great things to do in Java is to climb volcanoes and there are many as you traverse the island, such as Kawah Ijen, that are very accessible. Without exception, the most popular volcano for foreigners to visit is Gunung Bromo, located at a chilly 2000m above sea level and about 120km southeast of the capital of East Java, Surabaya.

The Tengger Caldera with Bromo on the left

The cool and fresh air of the 7km wide Tengger Caldera (remnants of a collapsed volcano) in which the real Gunung Bromo sits is a pleasant change from the stifling heat of nearby Surabaya and popular Yogyakarta. So cool and fresh, in fact, that long pants and a jacket are a must. The walls of this vast caldera in many places tower a jaw-dropping 500m above the surrounding landscape while at the town of Cemoro Lawang, the caldera wall is only about 100m above the caldera floor, allowing easy access for vehicles and those hiking on foot.

Cemoro Lawang on the edge of the Tengger Caldera.

The main reason most people visit Gunung Bromo is to witness sunrise over the moon-like Tengger Caldera from a nearby mountain, Gunung Penanjakan. The views from this vantage point are absolutely breathtaking with Gunung Batok in the foreground, the smaller Gunung Bromo behind it and the tallest mountain in Java, the ever-active Gunung Semeru, in the far distance, completing an astonishing scene.

During a trip here most visitors use the services of the local transport association, which holds a monopoly on taking passengers by jeep to the sunrise viewpoint and then onto Bromo itself. Depending on which agent or hotel you buy your ticket from, the price per person is 80,000 to 100,000 rupiah with the association making sure as many people cram into the jeep as possible -- at least this has the advantage of solo travellers not having to charter an entire jeep for themselves. Before we arrived at Bromo, we baulked at utilising this service as it sounded like a cheat's way of climbing a mountain. But having travelled by jeep, we think it is the best way for most people to see both the sunrise from Gunung Penanjakan and the inside of Gunung Bromo.

Gunung Batok, Bromo and Semeru.

Once finished watching the sunrise, most jeeps wind their way down into the caldera and across what is commonly known as the Lautan Pasir (Sea of Sand) to the base of Gunung Bromo, where a tiring walk to the summit of the volcano awaits. Those with weary legs can choose to make all the other tourists eat their dust by galloping on a horse to the base of the final stairs, but this is generally more popular among local tourists than foreigners.

Horses making the journey across the Lautan Pasir to Bromo.

At the top of Gunung Bromo is a narrow path -- one side an abyss, the other a steep slope down to the Lautan Pasir. Along this path are swarms of people trying to get their photo taken in front of the abyss while flower sellers offer their wares for 50,000 rupiah a pop, or 5,000 if you choose to negotiate.

People relaxing on the rim of Bromo. Yes, it's massive.

An alternative to hopping in a jeep is to walk from the town of Cemoro Lawang, where most tourist accommodation is located, to the peaks of Gunung Penanjakan and Gunung Bromo. It's a 3km, one-hour walk to Penanjakan and the same again from Cemoro Lawang to Bromo -- and those with legs of steel could easily climb Penanjakan for sunrise and then Bromo during a mid-morning stroll. Each to their own, I guess.

The whole area is surreal and we cannot emphasise enough how fantastic a natural wonder the Tengger Caldera is. Either taken as part of a tour from Yogyakarta or done independently, Gunung Bromo is a must see on any trans-Java journey.

Tags: calderas, Cemoro Lawang, Gunung Batok, Gunung Bromo, Gunung Penanjakan, Gunung Semeru, Kawah Ijen, Surabaya, Tengger Caldera, volcanoes

Indonesia is a massive archipelago spanning over 5,000 kilometres from its western tip in Aceh to the eastern border in Papua, and travelling across this huge country requires the use of a wide variety of transport (including boats, which we cover here). On the densely populated island of Java, which is the home to more than 120 million people, a popular and relatively fast form of transport is the railway, which connects all the major cities (including Jakarta, where the trains have been in the news).

No one cares if you poke your head out the window on Java trains.

There are also train services in Sumatra, but the train lines there are not connected to one another, making long distance travel impossible and usually not worth the effort. In Java, the story is different, with frequent trains between many of the destinations that travellers are likely to find themselves heading to.

As a general rule trains are faster than buses in Java, but also more expensive. We like to think of train travel as a great compromise between scenery-skipping flights and stomach-churning buses. For example the journey from Bandung to Yogyakarta by train takes eight hours and costs 110,000 rupiah while by bus it takes 12 hours and costs 90,000 rupiah. Occasionally it is possible to pick up an economy fare on a train with cramped bench seats for a slightly lower price than the bus, but be warned that the bus in this instance may well be more comfortable.

It's economy, but clean.

Indonesian trains offer three different classes of travel: economy, which has three-person and two-person bench seats and fans; business, which has larger coach-style seating in a two-two configuration; and executive, which has air-con, more legroom and power sockets for all your gadgets. In the economy and business carriages, sellers will regularly jump on the train to sell food, drinks and knick-knacks, meaning you don't need to go hungry on your journey. In all carriages you will be regularly offered nasi goreng on plates from the train staff themselves, but you pay a premium for this service.

Those with long legs need not apply.

All classes of carriages have clean squat toilets and racks for luggage which are large enough to fit even the biggest of backpacks. It is worth noting that theft on trains is not unknown in Indonesia so it's best to keep valuables close especially if heading to the toilet or having a sleep.

Plenty of space for luggage here.

The process of booking a ticket for train travel in Indonesia is fairly simple. Head to the nearest train station and ask for the ticket office. The ticket office can arrange tickets for train travel that day or for weeks in advance. Outside of holiday periods and weekends, trains are rarely fully booked and pre-purchase is not absolutely necessary. If you find yourself stuck during a holiday period without a train ticket, it is possible to obtain black market tickets from agents who generally buy tickets in bulk and on-sell them at hefty premiums. Check in shops surrounding the train station!

No concrete balls, yet.

A great place to get started on planning for your train journey is www.kereta-api.co.id  Not all fares are listed on the site, particularly those cheaper economy tickets, but it does give a good idea of where trains go to and from, how long they take and what the approximate costs are. More accurate and reliable information is available at train stations.

The journey is part of the experience.

Travel travel in Java is a fantastic way to see the countryside without having to endure the perils of bus travel. The scenery is magnificent, the service efficient and the price competitive. Tempted?

Tags: trains