When I started this series on cheap Indonesian food in Seminyak, the place at the top of my must-try list, because I still shamefully hadn't after four years in Bali, was Made's Warung. Everyone knows Made's Warung; it's been around since 1969 and these days has two outlets; I tried the one in Seminyak, which is an almost lavish, tourist-oriented affair.

All that glitters ...

Well, I've tried Made's Warung now and sadly I'm only keeping it here in this series as a warning. If you want to feel like you're eating in a tourist trap -- literally, surrounded by shops and a gazillion tables of other tourists in what feels like an open-air food hall -- and pay inflated prices for an experience that really isn't much different from restaurants serving similar food for a fraction of the price, then by all means, enjoy a meal here.

I ordered a plate of the nasi campur special, which came in at 65,000 rupiah. As is often the case in Bali, all items are plus 10% tax, with no service charge; this isn't mentioned on the menu as far as I could see, though a warning on every single page that you need to spend 100,000 rupiah to pay by credit card is.

To be fair, the nasi campur was a huge serving, with a great range of dishes to try, including beef rendang, curried prawns, some generous chunks of fish, a few veggie dishes. It was passable food; not bad, not amazing, a little spicy plus a kick-the-taste-buds sambal on the side. A lemon squash (20,000 rupiah) turned out to be a sweet pre-made slushy; Bintang beer only came as draft, for a pricey 27,000 rupiah. I had to signal to a host rather than a waiter twice to get service, though there were no shortage of waiters around.

Nasi campur special.

The menu includes Indonesian favourites, as well as an array of Thai, Japanese and international selections; I can't say whether the other types of cuisine are done exceptionally well or not but as far as the Indonesian food goes, for the price it wasn't amazing and I was kind of sad that they hadn't simply stayed focused on doing that really well. I kept thinking of Lara Djonggang in Jakarta and thought that if a warung should transform over time into something classy, then that's what it should seek to become -- something really special. Or for something a little closer to home, Bumbu Bali down in Tanjung Benoa gets it right, and is worth the trip.

The atmosphere at Made's was so bland -- vast courtyard, next to no light, a single vocalist belting out "Wind Beneath My Wings" under red velvet draped curtains -- I felt like crying. And it all seemed to be about the money, from the open shops surrounding the courtyard to the massive sign in the carpark telling you that if you don't have a receipt from eating at the restaurant, cough up 50,000 rupiah on exit, thank you very much. No such warning on the way in!

Table after table...

Made's Warung seems to be the sort of place you might go if you're on holiday with a dozen relatives and want to try to keep everyone happy. If that's your only criteria, I'd suggest dining instead around on Laksmana, somewhere like Cafe Bali, where the menu is wide-ranging international, affordable, and in a lovely wooden house with whimsical decor. Sure, there will be just as many tourists there, but if you're staying in Seminyak, that can't really be too much of an issue (head somewhere like Sidemen if you want to be somewhere quieter).

Let's call it No Name's? Doesn't look like much...

Now, one joint that does serve up a bargain between Legian and Laksmana is the signless "Japanese warung" on Drupadi, about 50 metres down from Legian on the left. A waiter said they were called "Kazuya" -- I think -- but there's no sign for now so it doesn't really matter what it's called, does it? What matters is they serve up great food in an Indonesian-style warung setup. Strictly speaking, it's sort of healthy Japanese-style food, not Indonesian, but I still thought it worth including here.

... but this is where the magic happens.

This place, perhaps, is what Made's Warung was once like: completely unassuming but turning out consistently yummy food. I've eaten here a lot -- and I've brought my daughter's lunchbox in at 11:00 to be filled before I drop it to school -- and it's always good. It's always the same, but always good. My favourite mix is red rice, stewed pork (so sweet, so tender...), crisp broccoli and lentils. With a can of Coke on the side, it comes in at 32,000 rupiah.

See?

They do a lovely vegan soy lasagna, a few different croquettes, lots of legumes as well as meat dishes. Recommended!

Made's Warung
Raya Legian, Seminyak
T: (0361) 732 130

Japanese Warung
Drupadi 1
Open Mon-Sat, 11:00-18:00

Blindingly white with a small but glittering freeform pool, lovingly decorated Villa Kresna is hidden away on the beach-bound spur of Jalan Sarinade, a five-minute walk from the beach end of Jalan Abimanyu. A few years ago Villa Kresna lost around half of their land and a couple of years later it underwent a complete refurbishment -- and the results are impressive. If you're looking for a romantic hideaway a couple of dozen footsteps from the beach, and you're not on a tight budget, Villa Kresna should be on your shortlist.

I do believe one of those recliners is MINE.

Wandering down across the wooden deck from reception and the restaurant towards the upstairs-downstairs rooms takes you by the frangipani and palm-shaded aquamarine swimming pool with a few recliners backing onto manicured gardens. Each room spills out onto the terrace with table settings for breakfast and glass-faced wooden sliding doors opening onto the interior. Once inside expect cool tiles underfoot and well chilled and spacious bedrooms.

We remember the shabby chic furnishings as being more enticing pre-renovation -- the lounges in particular are now a bit incongruous, feeling like they've been swiped from a three-star motel half way to Canberra, but it's a minor gripe. Bathrooms are compact but clean and the air-con chilled.

There are two main styles: standards, which are bedroom and bathroom affairs, and larger suites (we were shown the Lotus Suite). The latter are definitely worth the extra money as you get an entire extra room and they're better positioned. We used to stay here with young children (us in the master bedroom and the kids in the "TV room") and as long as your kids can swim (the pool is unfenced), this is an excellent option for families.

The Kresna grotto -- blissfully deserted.

It's also a delightful choice for honeymooners and those just looking for a romantic few days near the beach without paying the earth -- just be sure to ask for a room away from the families (or go for an upstairs room for extra privacy). It's a small, intimate property and less suited to those looking for a raucous beer-sozzled vacation (unless you drink your Bintangs quietly to subdued Morcheeba).

We do love the swimming pool here -- the back wall is decorative stone, giving it an almost grotto feel, and the shady frangipanis tempt one to float the day away. It is however on the small side and if the resort is busy, you'll probably opt for the beach.

Must stop taking photos with swimming pool in it.

The rack rate is inflated but we were offered an almost 60% discount (from US$300 to 1,300,000 rupiah) without hesitation as a walk-in customer, which brought the rates down to quite good value for the standard. Significant discounts are available online. If you've plonked your parents in here but can't afford it yourself, consider Sarinade Inn just up the road, which, while nowhere near as nice, is a fraction of the price and still very close to the beach.

The beach here is home to a lot of surfboard rental places and when the conditions are right, this is a good, not-too-crowded spot to learn to surf. Last tip: head down to the beach, turn right and both fancy-pants bar/restaurant Kudeta and family-friendly La Lucciola are a 10-minute walk up the beach -- they'll bang on your wallet but the splurges, at least once, are worth it.

Villa Kresna Boutique Suites
Jl Sarinade 19, Seminyak
T: (0361) 730 317
F: (0361) 732 847
info@villakresna.com
http://www.villakresna.com

Check rates at Agoda -- best price guarantee.

Photo gallery

Has a building ever made you smile? The striking facade of Potato Head Bali is the first architectural feature that's brought a grin to my face. It's a semi-circular construction by architect Andra Martin comprising old louvred shutters from Java, a mixture of whimsy and cleverness; try seeing it and not marvelling at how creative people can really be.

Shutter madness.

It's a modern take on the Coliseum, with a dramatic entrance into the amphitheatre inside from behind the facade. You'll walk up a narrow sort-of hallway, which opens onto a large circle of green lawn, with restaurants arching to the left and right and the foam of Seminyak beach's waves frothing just metres away from the infinity-edge pool.

A windy, rainy season day at Potato Head -- not at its best, but still looking pretty good.

We've eaten a few times at the beachside restaurant, both during the day and at night, and on daybed/lounges as well as the dining tables. A French restaurant, Tapping Shoes, drips in chandeliers and offers more formal, air-con dining  and the other outdoor restaurant, Lilin, serves up Asian cuisine on large communal wooden tables. It's a big undertaking, three-restaurants-in-one, plus a shop -- which you are made to exit through, sort of like Sydney airport's duty-free, only even more expensive -- and a busy party schedule, as well.

Another marvellous mosaic, but looking up from when you're, well, sitting down.

It's taken Potato Head a little while to find its feet service wise, which can be disappointing when you're ordering pricey cocktails. Despite the prices, the cocktail list is compelling -- pineapple and cracked pepper margarita? Georgian mint julep? (each 100,000++ rupiah) -- and competitive for the market. And just FYI: you may think you are not getting a buzz from the lemongrass and mango sangria (500,000++ rupiah for a jug enough for six glasses), but trust me, you are.

Make mine something breezy.

I am happy to report that the service on our most recent visit last week was great. Meanwhile the food, for the quality and again compared to the competition (particularly KuDeTa) is fair.

We had a decent Nicoise salad on our last visit, though the visit before that we were a tad disappointed with the fish and chips; the fish was delectable but the chips were fast-food style rather than a chunky hand-cut version. That may sound like we're a bit overly picky, I know, but everything about the fabulous surrounds leads you to think you're going to consistently get something really special on your plate, you know?

Make mine something sunny and breezy.

If you're on a budget, but willing to splurge a little for a special experience, you can make Potato Head work for you. Come early, grab a daybed, have a coffee, a swim, another coffee then a grazing lunch -- avoid the alcohol and you'll probably not spend too much but have a memorable morning and early afternoon in one of Bali's top locations. (Though do remember there are plenty of other beautiful beaches in Bali where you can enjoy a drink and meal for next to nothing.)

Presentation: I'd say that's a pass.

Do be aware that we were told during our most recent sunset visit that there's a 500,000 rupiah minimum spend on the beds -- presumably that applies at all times, but you might want to call ahead of time to check, as these kinds of things can change depending on the season and time of day.

Our overall assessment? Definitely go just to savour the architecture, which may be simple in its execution, but is quite ingenious in conception. Have just a coffee or a light meal if you're on a tight budget; if you've got more money to spend, then Potato Head's beachside restaurant is fine value for its ilk on the island.

Potato Head Bali
Jalan Petitenget
T: (0361) 473 7979
www.ptthead.com
Open daily 11:00-02:00

Tags: alcohol, cocktails, Potato Head

Whether you're roughing it at a Bali guesthouse and you want to treat yourself or you're splurging in a villa but you want to hit the pavement, brunch in Seminyak is a good idea. Breakfasts run the full gamut here, from cheap and cheerful through to sophisticated and pricey. Here are a few of our faves.

Cafe Bali

A side of flowers.

We've written about this shabby chic spot before and reckon it's one of the best Jalan Laksmana choices for a quick breakfast or lazy brunch. Just 15,000 rupiah (okay, but it's plus plus -- so closer to 20,000) gets you two eggs done your way with bread on the side. Or go for a parfait of fruit salad and yoghurt, a thin crepe drizzled in chocolate, or a couple of chocolate au pain, dipped in a glass of latte.

Grab one of the long tables out the back next to the dreamy pool fringed with vibrant Ganeshas looped in beads; it's a haven from the mess of Laksmana outside.
Jalan Laksmana (near Ultimo)
T: (0361) 736 484

Sea Circus

Quote and frangipani side.

This little spot is a favourite of ours and does a great range of breakfasts. You won't get much in the way of views, but the whimsical decor and laidback vibe -- sprays of pretty flowers, free water served in glass bottles and always good music -- could be just the ticket to ease your way into the day; we particularly love the typed quote of the day and frangipani that comes with your coffee.

Find their online menu here. We were sad to see their chilli jam disappear -- it goes perfectly with poached eggs -- but they sometimes have it if you ask, and a good second option is the red onion marmalade. If you're after something sweet, the ricotta pancakes (35,000 rupiah) is just the ticket. We haven't tried it, but we love the name of their virgin Bloody Mary: a Bloody Shame.
22 Jalan Kayu Aya/Oberoi Road, Seminyak
T: (0361) 738 667

Ku De Ta

Muesli, not granola. But what a peach.

With the spike in tourism to Bali in recent years, prices at iconic Ku De Ta have gone up commensurately and it's not the bargain it once was. Nevertheless there's a reason the crowds come: the always-solid food, the impeccable staff, and the unbeatable beachside location with fantastic views -- the surf is so close you'll get the impression the surfers are about to glide onto the sand and continue running to a table to smoothly pick up a latte. And compared to a what a four-star hotel buffet breakfast might set you back, it's still a reasonable deal.

An orange juice here will set you back 30,000 rupiah (++), while the granola, house dried fruits, nuts, seeds and yoghurt is 60,000++. I always thought granola was supposed to be sweetened, baked muesli, but KDT's version on my visit was disappointingly just plain old muesli. The huge vanilla-infused peach on the side was a gorgeous touch though.
Jalan Kayu Aya 9
T: (0361) 736 969

Also: We love Susie's breakfast at Corner Store (eggs and ruccola) as well as the scrambled tofu at Earth Cafe.

Tags: breakfast, brunch, Cafe Bali, Corner Store, Earth Cafe, Ku De Ta, Sea Circus

Having covered a few yoga studios in Sanur, it's time to have a squizz at the Seminyak and Canggu areas of Bali.

Bend and stretch, reach for the stars...

Top of the list for a drop-in class while you're holidaying in this area of Bali has to be stunning, back-to-nature Desa Seni, with its open-air, alang-alang roofed Tri Murti studio. This is a lovely, tranquil spot, looking out onto beautiful flower-filled gardens and surrounded by a fish pond and paddy streams.

The schedule is comprehensive and ever-changing, so you're bound to find a style, time and teacher suited to where you're at with your practice, whether that be a completely beginner level or something more advanced. They have occasional intensive retreats as well, so if you're planning a trip check out their site or drop them a line and ask.

Mats, cushions, other props and drinking water is supplied as part of the 120,000 rupiah drop-in price, so you really just have to show up. Stop at the small restaurant afterwards to enjoy some of their great food, much of which comes from their own gardens. Our only complaint here? They used to have kids' classes -- we wish they would bring them back!

Take a chill pill.

Jiwa Yoga and Dance focuses on hot yoga classes, which can be a bit of a shock to the system if you've never done yoga before -- and even if you have, the heat can be something you'll either love or hate. It's not for everyone, though I have recently become a convert and urge you to try! I did give myself a knee injury at the Sanur hot yoga class this week by pushing too hard, so be warned: if you're not sure, don't do it -- the heat can make you think you're invincible as you'll stretch further than you've ever stretched before.

You think it's hot outside.

The mirrored Jiwa studio is lovely, with white-washed touches and an intricate Balinese wooden door dominating the decor. Price is 155,000 rupiah per session (their website has a price list, with a drop-in listed at 145,000 rupiah, but there's a warning that prices have gone up, rather than just the list of the new prices...) Classes are most mornings and evenings, but do check the schedule for the latest times ahead of your visit. Make sure you buy a bottle or two of water to take in, but a towel and locker is included in the price (you may want to bring an extra towel as you'll sweat into the one they give you). And there are showers -- trust me, you'll need one afterwards.

Finally, Prana Spa has a small attached yoga studio. I have inspected the enclosed studio but not yet done one of their 90-minute classes, which are held once in the morning (Hatha flow) and evening (Sivananda) Monday through Friday, with an additional class on Saturday at 10:30am. Cost is 70,000 rupiah. BYO towel. The spa here is way over the top and not quite to my taste, but if you're after an indulgent Bali experience, consider booking in for a massage after your class -- it will be memorable, at the least, simply because of the imaginative, colourful, Morrocan-inspired surrounds.

Desa Seni
Jalan Subak Sari 13, Berawa.
T: (0361) 844 6392
www.desaseni.com/schedule.htm

Jiwa Yoga Bali
Jalan Petitenget 78, Seminyak
T: (0361) 841 3689
http://www.jiwayogaanddance.com/schedule-and-price.php

Prana Yoga at The Villas
Opposite Bali Deli, Jalan Kunti, Seminyak
T: 0815 5800 0558

http://www.thevillas.net/yoga.htm

So yesterday afternoon I decided to finish off a decidedly ordinary week by running out of money. On the final day that school fees were due. This is a more common occurrence than it should be at Casa Travelfish and we even have an emergency money frame with $100 in it. So I broke the frame, grabbed the cash and sped across the island to Seminyak to pay the school fees before the closing bell.

Never, ever trust a money counting machine in an exchange office. Never.

The $100 was in two plastic Australian $50 notes so I planned to exchange it at one of the dodgy looking kiosks among the kid's clothing stores on Jalan Laksmana. Dodgy is right.

We had recently been scammed out of about US$200 when doing a large money exchange (don't ask) so I was on the lookout for shysters. Turns out they're not difficult to find.

According to xe.com, yesterday the Indonesian rupiah to Australian dollar exchange rate was 8,492. Meaning A$100 should have got me just shy of 850,000 rupiah. Browsing the kiosks (there's about a half dozen within 100 metres of one another on Jalan Laksmana) I saw rates (all in theory non-commission) ranging from 8,700 to 9,199. That's quite a spread -- even on just $100 that's roughly a $5 difference.

Of course if something looks too good to be true, it is probably not true -- and, if you're talking about money changers in Bali, rest assured it isn't anywhere near the truth.

Dodgy moneychanger number one
So I hit the 9,199 exchange place. The wooden shack is down a narrow gang and just has three locals hanging around -- it feels dodgy immediately. I ask after changing $100 -- no problem. They do the math on their phone and it comes out at 919,900 rupiah.

Authorised to rip off tourists.

The main money changer pulls out a wad of 50,000 notes and counts out 500,000 on the table in front of me. My A$100 is on the table as well. I pick up the 500,000 and count it. Indeed there is 500,000. I continue holding it.

He then counts out another 400,000. When I reach for that to count, he reaches to take the 500,000 out of my hand. I resist and snatch the 400,000 and count it. Sure enough there is 400,000.

So I'm holding 900,000 in my hands. Then he asks for the money back. While I've already decided the exchange isn't going to happen, I let him take it back (my $100 is still on the table).

He then counts it again in front of me on the table. First 500,000 then 400,000. Note we're still short another 19,900. I then reach to pick it up to count it again as I'm pretty sure he dropped one note out of the 500 and one out of the 400, and he brushes my hands away, pushes the A$100 back to me and says, "You go away."

I oblige.

Dodgy moneychanger number two
This place, also advertising a rate of 9,199, was about 20 metres up the road. Like the first, it's a shack but as I arrive there is a traveller in front of me also trying to exchange A$100.

Looks reputable? Ummm no.

It appears to have been going on for a while and when I arrive she's asking to be allowed to count the money. In the end he relents and sure enough the bundle is 50,000 rupiah short. She asks after the missing 50,000 to which he replies, "Oh, that's the commission." She points out his sign out front has "No Commission" emblazoned across the top, to which he replies, "Ok, but how much do you pay?"

She leaves and me behind her.

Dodgy moneychanger number three
Fifty metres further up I find another exchange rate, this time 9,099. Perhaps this one will work.

In case you were wondering, those rates are BS.

Again the exchange is down a small alley and is little more than a wooden box. The math is done on the phone and again a tattered bundle of 50,000 rupiah notes come out.

This time he counts out 900,000 in a single pile in front of me then gestures for me to check it. I count it and sure enough there is 900,000 there, but before I ask after the 9,900 rupiah still to come he reaches over, takes the money out of my hand and says, "I'll just check."

He then counts it twice. First in the impossible for me to do Indonesian fashion, then at lightning speed he counts the 900,000 in a single pile on the desk.

I reach to count it again, and he declares, "Stop!" He grabs my Australian dollars and examines the notes. He then grabs his money back, gives me the two $50 notes back and says, "Sorry, that note is too faded."

Ho hum.

Dodgy moneychanger number four
Onwards I go. I find another exchange kiosk, this one facing onto the main road, so it feels a little less dodgy than the shacks down the alleys. I have to wake up the guy who was asleep on the floor behind the desk.

Money management the Travelfish.org way.

No problem he says, math on the phone and he counts out 500,000 on the desk then another 400,000 behind it. I reach to take it all and he says "No, count the 500,000 first." So I do that, and yes, there is 500,000 rupiah there.

I then reach for the 400,000 but he asks for the 500,000 back. So I give that back and count the 400,000. It's all there. He then asks for that back and gives me the 500,000 back. He then proceeds to count the 400,000 in front of me while I count the 500,000. My 500,000 is suddenly 400,000 and his 400,000 was 400,000, but before I could say anything, he pushes the 400,000 over to me and says, "Okay."

I know I'm short and so go to count the in-theory 900,000 rupiah, knowing full well he's taken 100,000. As I start to count it, he grabs the rupiah I've already put on the table, pushing the $50 notes back to me and says, "Give me the money back. You come back later."

I do so.

A legitimate money changer in Seminyak
A bit further up, almost opposite the Corner Store, I find a glass-fronted exchange office. It has the worst rate I've seen -- 8,700.

Worst rate but no tricky business.

I walk in, give him A$100, he counts it, then gives me 870,000 rupiah. I count it, there is 870,000 rupiah. I leave and go pay my school fees.

In summary
At no stage did I feel threatened. As soon as the dodgy operators knew they were going to get caught out they sent me packing. They all rely on a sleight of hand where notes are generally dropped behind the desk when they recount what you have counted once.

As with the last shyster above, they also use simple numbers to confuse you. The 400/500 amounts being swapped around was confusing and if I hadn't been paying close attention, I would have walked out of there 100,000 rupiah short.

Here are the two basic rules to adhere to during the game:
a) Don't use dodgy-looking exchange kiosks down narrow gangs; and
b) Always be the last one to count your money. This is crucial. When we were seriously ripped off we assumed the money-counting machine that counted the notes in front of us was counting correctly. Seemingly it wasn't, and it cost us $200.

If you'd like another take on these tricksters, Nomad4ever has a good piece on why you should never trust a money-changer.

Tags: exchange, money

You've had enough of sand and you just want half a day off the beach doing something a bit different with the kids that doesn't involve chasing them around too closely, like you would need to say at the zoo or Waterbom. Here are a few places you can do just that.

Lollipops Playland, Waterplay and Cafe

Now ready for the crowds.

Lollipops Playland, Waterplay and Cafe has just opened on Sunset Road in Seminyak, meaning it's just a hop, skip and a jump away for people staying in that area. We visited a few weeks ago during the soft opening period, but have since heard pretty much all of the activities are up and running, from the water play, splash pool area through to the harness obstacle course at the back and the main play area, where there are trampolines, ball games, a toddler play area, large slides and myriad other distractions, such as an air blaster that foam balls dance around in (that one had me enthralled).

Bring your own socks, or you'll have to buy a pair to enter. The park is for kids aged one to 12, with an attached cafe that does Asian-style Western food -- think "egg sandwich" as meaning a fried egg on white bread with lettuce and tomato, McDonalds-style French fries, and Bali kopi. But if you can look past the pretty average food, and get in early before it gets busy (as this place is bound to), then this is a spot the kids are going to love for a few hours of mostly indoor, out-of-the-sun play. (The splash park wasn't open when we were there, but we've since heard good things.)

Lollipops Playland, Waterplay and Cafe
Sunset Road No. 902, Seminyak, Bali
T: (0361) 8475992 / 8475987
www.indonesia.lollipopsplayland.com/
Open daily 09:00-21:00, but from October 1 08:00-20:00
Admission: Ages 2-15 125,000 rupiah, adults 25,000

Fun World

It's a jungle out there.

We've already written about Fun World at some length, but it's worth a mention here as it's similar in many ways to Lollipops, but much more spacious -- but it's also in the middle of nowhere, really -- a 30-minute drive from Sanur, or a 20-minute drive from Ubud. It's also rather overpriced for tourists -- US$15 -- compared to Lollipops, and I wonder whether that price may now drop (it's 38,000 rupiah for locals or permanent residents).

Like Lollipops, the cafe here is very local, meaning you'll get a decent fried noodles and fair Bali kopi, but forget a latte or fresh sandwich. It can get hot in the afternoons and it does tend to get more crowded as the day wears on, but get in early and you'll likely have the place to yourselves for a few hours.

Fun World
Jalan Lettu I Wayan Sutha II
Peninjoan, Batuan, Sukawati, Bali
T: (0361) 294 924
www.balifunworld.com
Open weekdays 09:30-20:00, weekends 09:30-21:00

3V

Looks like someone just turned the tele on.

3V is a great concept: large, stunning pool, open-air restaurant serving fresh, delicious meals, and a designated kids' room suitable for kids aged around seven and up to play on their own for a bit. When we were there, this room was unstaffed, but seems to be available anyway for kids to use while their parents are eating. (There are also villas and a fitness centre attached.)

When you're there, you'll see noticeboards with various scheduled activities for kids and families though, which includes barbecue and movie nights through to summer camp activities. Seems they haven't updated their website for a while and there's not much info on their Facebook page either, so if you're keen perhaps call ahead to see what's on, or just drop in. The spot is a bit off the beaten track in Kerobokan, but it's well signposted and about a 10-minute drive from Seminyak. Keep an eye out for the various "antique" shops in the area -- there are some real gems.

3V
Jalan Merta Sari 31X, Kerobokan, Bali
T: (0361) 881 1295
www.3vkerobokan.com
Open daily 07:00-22:00

Tags: 3V, fun parks, fun world, kids activities, lollipops

Fluff alert! Yes, this is just about getting your nails or your toes done while you're on holiday in Seminyak. For something more highbrow, please see here, or here, or here. Still with me? Okay, if you're preparing to bare your feet for the first time in a while -- at say a nearby Seminyak beach bar -- you'll want a proper pedicure. As for manicures, I rarely get them in real life as they last not 60 seconds once I'm out the salon's door, but if you're on holidays you won't be cooking or cleaning right? A nice nail job might last a day or two...

Perhaps a colour for each finger?

You can basically go street or salon standard in Bali. Around Seminyak, a street-level joint will set you back about 50,000 rupiah for a manicure, a little more for a pedicure. You'll double this to head to a salon or spa with Western standards -- it's quite a jump, but with it you do get a better quality job and better experience, which isn't to say some street level spots aren't perfectly adequate.

Here are three of the better spots in Seminyak -- certainly, there are others, but these three have good reputations -- where what you'll pay is still cheap compared to the West, even if on the pricey side for Bali (of course, still favourably priced compared to what you'll pay at a five-star hotel or resort.)

Bodyworks

There you go.

This Bodyworks is completely unrelated to the one in Ubud. It's been around for more than 15 years though and is certainly something of an institution among the Seminyak set -- they do a range of massage, facials, waxing and, unusually, have an infrared sauna (cheapest per person if you go with a few friends).

A manicure or pedicure here takes place in the room below, which looks out into a leafy courtyard on one side and the quiet side road it's located on on the other. Price is 111,000 rupiah, tax inclusive, and do tip if you're happy.

Did someone say sparkly glamour?

I had a very decent mani here without colour (see above about chipping -- I'm not on holidays!) and the price was knocked down to 96,000 rupiah. Friendly, efficient and competent staff made ducking in here a pleasure. Do book ahead as they get very busy, particularly in high season.

Glo Day Spa

Get ready for glo-rious.

Australian-run Glo Day Spa has been such a hit in Seminyak they've now got a second branch in Sanur. It really is about pampering here, with free WiFi, a drinks menu, foreign magazines and little optional extras like, say, a 15-minute foot massage added on to your treatment if you like. They offer the full gamut of salon services -- waxing, spray tanning, lash extensions, microdermabrasion and a range of facials are among the vast choice.

I had a pedicure here -- I confess to being a regular at Sanur -- and it was top notch. Chairs are placed so you get maximum privacy in a communal space, and there's no cutting corners on the quality of products used -- their colour always lasts for weeks on end. It will cost you: 175,000 rupiah for a 45-minute pedicure, inclusive of tax but not service, which is at your discretion. (Disclosure: A Mum friend owns Glo.)

Amo Spa

Make mine ruby red!

Run by a former New York-born model (disclosure: another Mum friend), Amo Spa is the newest kid on the block mentioned here and offers a briefer menu than the others, but still covers all the basics, such as scrubs, massages and facials.

It oozes tasteful style, a blend of Bali meets New York, really, with good design touches such as sinks right at your feet for pedicures. I had a competent manicure here, which included a choice of scented oils for an arm/hand massage -- nice touch. A 45-minute manicure is priced at 90,000 rupiah, plus 10% tax and 5% service, the cheapest of this selection of Seminyak's higher-end places, but without any sacrifice on the service front.

Bodyworks: Jalan Kayu Jati No. 2, Petitenget, Seminyak. T: (0361) 733 317.
Glo Day Spa: Kunti Plaza, Jalan Kunti #119, Seminyak. T: (0361) 738 689.
Amo Spa: Jalan Petitenget 100x, Seminyak. T: (0361) 275 3337.

Tags: bodyworks seminyak, Bodyworks Ubud, manicures, pedicures

Seminyak's Jalan Laksmana, also known as Jalan Oberoi, is packed with places to eat -- hence its third name, Eat Street. The strip, which also boasts an ever-increasing number of gleaming glass-fronted clothes boutiques, is a great spot to find a quiet corner to catch up on email or work online for a few hours in the mornings before the lunchtime rush. Here's a list of a few of our favourites, both directly on Jalan Laksmana and its surrounds. All have powerpoints unless otherwise mentioned, but ask where you should sit if you do need one as often there are only a few.

Vienna Cafe

Would you like some sun to dapple your coffee?

Vienna Cafe is tucked about 200 metres off Jalan Laksmana on Drupadi (on the right coming from Laksmana). This is an unexpected little retreat, with a garden, a few shabby chic tables and chairs both inside and out. Austrian specialities are their forte -- and they do excellent coffee. Their hashbrowns with peppery rucola, yoghurt, cucumber and grilled tomato is one of our favourite Bali breakfasts. Some lovely whimsical touches and the homey feel -- in fact, we think the cafe actually is someone's backyard -- make this a spot you'll want to linger. Bonus: toys, tables and chairs for short people.
Jalan Drupadi, Seminyak

Cafe Bali

Did someone say work?

We've covered this place in detail before as it's one of our favourite spots in the area to meet friends as well as to get stuff done on our laptops. The decor at this shabby chic place (yes, another) is just lovely, the staff won't hassle you if you don't want a second coffee but do need to finish what you're doing, and the food is very well priced. Grab one of the larger back tables to sit by the exquisite little plunge pool. If you're heading to Gili Trawangan, they have a sister cafe there, called Cafe Gili, of course.
Jalan Laksmana

Grocer and Grind

Traditional Indonesian fare at Grocer & Grind. Ahem.

This is a spot to see and be seen, but if you can drag your attention away from the people spotting, the WiFi is good, as are the breakfasts, salads and sandwiches. The coffee is very competent too, and as the name suggests, there's a grocery/deli attached. This is just around the corner from our Seminyak hotel pick -- grab a menu from here on arrival and get food and drinks delivered to your room if you're having a quiet day or night in. During high season Grocer & Grind fills fast and you may not get a spot with a powerpoint.
Jalan Kayu Jati 3x, Petitenget Beach
T: (0361) 730 481, 737 321
www.grocerandgrind.com/

Zucchini at Zuitton

WiFi hideaway.

Pull up a stool here and enjoy the cute decor -- think whitewashed rattan walls, granny-styleflowers-in-vase paintings -- while sipping a smoothie and munching on a muffin. This little spot isn't so comfy you'll want to settle in for a whole morning, but it's a good half-hour stop off if you've simply got to check in online. Great light and organic food and the attached clothes boutique is always worth a browse as well.
Jalan Laksmana, on left as heading down to Seminyak Square

Sea Circus

Slatted windows improve WiFi.

Sea Circus is way around toward Petitenget, near La Lucciola's -- park at the temple if you're driving. Though we love this gorgeously cute little spot for dinner, this is also one of our all-time favourite non-seaside breakfast spots in Bali. Order the poached eggs with a side of chilli jam, a pineapple/orange juice, and a latte, and you're set for the next few hours. Coffees come with a typed quote for the day on the side and a frangipani.
22 Jalan Laksmana
T: (0361) 738 667
www.seacircus-bali.com/

Tuckshop/Cornerstore

Fight your way through the jungle, coffee and WiFi await.

As you'd expect, this little spot is on the corner of Laksmana and the end of Jalan Kerobokan. Breezy and bright, this is a spot for Mac-wielding fashionistas, as well as passing tourists who come back for the superb coffee and excellent light meals. Pick up some of their stylish clothes for men, women and children while you wait, and the homewares are snappy too.
Jalan Laksmana 10A
T: (0361)  732 115

Tags: cafes, coffee, laptops, online, WiFi

If it's August, it's high season in Bali. Parties are cranking into gear and though for some that means running for the hills, for others it's time to glam up and get out of the hotel.

Travelfish.org knows all the coolest party venues that nobody else has ever heard of.

Seminyak is party central with the main spots for grooving being sunset institution KuDeTa, old-hand Hu'u and audacious newcomers Potato Head and Cocoon. The season tends to be called "summer", though in actual fact it's winter in Bali -- we're in the southern hemisphere, folks.

Here's the August calendar for some of the larger venues:

Thursday August 11 (postponed from yesterday due to a plane diversion): Ed Banger Party at Potato Head Beach Club. French electronic music label Ed Banger presents DJs Mehdi, Busy P and BreakBot.

Friday August 12: F Vodka Launch Party at Hu'u. Fashion TV presents the official F Vodka launch with a Casino Royale party.
AND
Wild Party at Cocoon, with DJ Mr V flying from the USA to spin the night away with entertainers.

Cocoon or Cocooo? Look again.

Saturday August 13:  Ku De Ta's 11th birthday party. Japanese-inspired cuisine will be served before a backdrop of red lanterns, Zen fountains, kimono-clad entertainers and Sumo wrestlers. Dance music legend Todd “The God” Terry spins house music and Ku De Ta's DonniOne and Supercozi will round out the musical offerings. A share of the proceeds going towards the survivors of Japan's recent disasters.

Slumming it at Ku De Ta.

Friday August 19: Summer Syndrome's Strictly Costume Party at Potato Head Beach Club. Come in your most elaborate or simple costume -- they don't give any suggestion to a theme beyond that -- to see Empire of the Sun perform at Potato Head's main summer event.
AND
Hu'u's Red Party, celebrating Independence Day.
AND
Vegas Showtime at Cocoon, XPRESS @ is spinning the beats with Vegas showgirls on hand as well.

I promise this is the last time that I use this photo from Potato Head.

Saturday August 20: Ku De Ta's Hello Sailor-themed White party. Indonesia's 22-piece Pitelas Big Band will perform plus Djs Spen and Karizma.

Friday August 26: Hu'u's 24 karat Super Solid Gold party with DJ Golddigger.

It's also worth checking out whether anything is on at Nammos during your Bali holiday -- they have some great parties and often provide a shuttle service down to their beautiful beach on the Bukit. Their emails were bouncing in the leadup to writing this post.

Ku De Ta
Jalan Kayu Aya 9
T: (0361) 736 969
www.kudeta.net
info@kudeta.net

Potato Head Beach Club
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
T: (0361) 473 79 79
reservations@ptthead.com

Hu'u
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
T: (0361) 736 443
www.huubali.com
info@huubali.com

Cocoon
Jalan Double Six, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Seminyak
T: (0361) 731 266
www.cocoon-beach.com
info@cocoon-beach.com

Nammos at Karma Kandara
Jalan Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan
T: (0361) 848 2200
www.karmaresorts.com/