Villages cluster in the valleys around Dieng.

Sitting up in the mountains about 150 kilometres northwest of Yogyakarta, the Dieng Plateau is absolutely stunning: rolling hills terraced with vegetable gardens as far as the eye can see, boiling pits of mud and coloured lakes. This place has it all and surprisingly few foreigners visit outside of the peak season. In fact, whenever we've been there, we haven't seen one other independent traveller although your luck may vary dependent on the time of year you're there. Of course there are a few foreigners around on private tours, but even they are few and far between.

So what does this mean? Unless you visit in June, July or August, you are going to feel like an modern day intrepid explorer. Come in the peak season and you'll have a different experience which will be more convivial and shared with new friends.

It looks like the moon around here.

The main attractions in Dieng are the numerous temples and the geothermal area around Kawah Sikidang. These attractions form a simple loop which can be walked over the course of half a day. The first stop is usually the Arjuna complex, a group of temples built in the eighth century and reported to be some of the oldest in Java. The setting of these temples is stunning with mist-shrouded steep hills on all sides and farms surrounding the immediate area.

The main drawcard is the smattering of temples.

From the Arjuna complex, a short walk across the farmland takes you to Candi Gatokaca, just another old Hindu temple, but this time with a new view across the farms to the town of Dieng.

Next stop is Candi Bima, a further 800 metres down the road from Candi Gatokaca. It's the biggest of the temples in the area, but after having seen the previous temples, it feels like "just another temple". And it is unless you're into ancient Hindu temple history.

Just another weird coloured lake in the mountains.

Taking the turn off at Candi Bima takes you 800 metres to Kawah Sikidang, which for many will be the highlight of the circuit with its bubbling mud pit and strange hot earth. There are in fact two pits at Kawah Sikidang worth seeing, but the best one is filled with steaming mud which boils vigourously. Other features in the area include hot streams, strange small holes which are very hot and sections of earth with gas seeping out of them which is sometimes also hot. It's all crazy stuff and fascinating to explore. Also, the fried potatoes, tofu and tempe at the nearby warungs are a godsend and a fantastic pick-me-up.

If you're into boiling mud, Dieng is for you.

The last stop on the loop is Telaga Warna which translates in English to coloured lake. We don't want to criticise the person who came up with the name, but surely they could have been more creative! Anyway, the lake is simply a big blue thing surrounded by forest with a tall mist covered mountain as a backdrop. It's pretty, but most people will spend about 10 minutes here before heading back to the "comfort" of their rooms.

Temperatures in Dieng can be icy -- literally. Frosts can occur year round, but are particularly frequent during June, July and August when overnight temperatures often drop below zero. During the day when walking around, it's not necessary to be rugged up, but a light jacket and jeans are a good idea. At night, most homestays and guesthouses are positively freezing as there is usually no in-room heating. In addition to this, many homestays have tiled floors, meaning if you have to walk to the toilet from your bed which is piled high with blankets, every ounce of warmth will be sucked through the soles of your feet. Expect to breathe steam from your mouth during the night.

Valley after valley of crops.

All the attractions on the small loop can be visited on a daytrip from Yogyakarta if you hire a motorbike, but it is a long, long day and it is quite likely that it will rain along the way as you'll have to navigate through mountains. Factor in about 12 hours on the motorbike. By far the best way to see the loop is on foot and the only way to do this practically is to stay in town at one of the many homestays. Accommodation is usually around the 150,000 rupiah mark for a clean room with private bathroom or cheaper if you're happy to share a bathroom.

Rolling hills of Dieng.

Getting to Dieng from Yogyakarta requires heading by bus to Magelang, then Wonosobo, then Dieng. Factor in three buses, although you might get lucky and get a direct Yogya-Wonosobo bus, but don't bank on it. A bus trip from Yogyakarta to Dieng and back in one day is not recommended, but is possible if you are on a tight budget and timeframe. Bank on leaving Yogyakarta at 05:00 and getting back at 20:00.

However you see the Dieng Plateau, it is definitely worth a visit; aside from the things we have mentioned here, a bunch of other activities can only be done justice if you stay in the town of Dieng itself.

Warung Ocha

Look, quick, one of those annoying little Coke cans.

One of the most obvious and popular Indonesian joints along Raya Seminyak (which is a continuation of Jalan Legian, and then eventually becomes Raya Basangkasa just a little further north) is red-signed Warung Ocha on the corner of Jalan Plawa. Warung Ocha does a huge range of a la carte Western food -- pastas, salads, sambos, seafood, burgers and so on -- as well as point-and-pick and a la carte Indonesian dishes.

The red and brown special.

We're just focusing on point-and-pick in this series, which is possibly Ocha's weakest point, but mainly when it comes to price, as local food is so much cheaper off the strip -- the Western food is reasonably priced.

I've eaten here several times but most recently stopped in and had a plate of red rice (you can choose white if you like) with mixed vegetables (carrots, pumpkin and mushroom), tempeh manis (tempeh in soy sauce) and a fried egg with sambal. The sauces were good, the egg and sambal on the dry side and I got a nice little rock of gravel/grit thrown in with the rice for free. Look I know this happens with rice, but you just kind of hope it doesn't in a restaurant when you have to spit a full mouthful of food into a napkin because you've shattered the grit, yeah?

And look I know I shouldn't drink Coke, ever, but when I have a quick meal -- and this is really the Indonesian version of fast food -- I really do feel like one. So I really get possibly disproportionately irritated when I order one and it comes in one of those annoying little cans. It's not enough to go with a meal, but two are too many... Whatever, you've been warned.

There is however a large range of drinks here, including wine by the glass (80,000 rupiah though! plus plus! at a "warung"! though to be fair, it's Chilean, not Hatten), beer (25,000 rupiah for a small Bintang -- all prices are plus 10% tax, plus 5% service), fresh juices (around 21,000 rupiah), good coffees -- just 15,000 rupiah for a cappucino -- and interesting teas, such as rosella, a fairly standard one in Indonesia and definitely one you should try if you haven't already (13,000 rupiah).

Point and pick desserts.

Even if you go for the Indonesian quickie main, you should dally a little and be tempted by the range of desserts on display, which average 15,000 rupiah a slice and always look yummo.

The atmosphere is bustling and it's always busy, so the food should be fresh; the staff were quick to move me under cover when it started sprinkling.

My total bill: 46,000 rupiah.

Taman Bambu (Bamboo Garden)

Not quite a bamboo garden but not bad.

About 100 metres down Jalan Plawa, Taman Bambu offers a similar array of point-and-pick dishes -- and that's about it. I know it will sound corny, but the food here seems to be made with a bit more love and care. I had the crumbled fried tempeh, a squid sort-of curry and pickle salad, with a fiery spoonful of extra sambal on the side. The tempeh was lovely and crisp, the squid was tender and the pickles had chillies in them which along with the sambal brought real, cleansing tears to my eyes.

They sadly only have white rice here, but the Coke came in a beautiful glistening bottle (look we all have our boxes to tick, alright?) The ice on the side was chipped from a big chunk -- if you worry about the risks of coming down with a bug, this is probably best avoided but I've been drinking it for years without any problems.

A small selection of dishes available.

Prices here are a lot cheaper -- it can be amazing how they do fall once you are off the tourist strip -- and my total bill here was just 20,000 rupiah for the lot. For a hole-in-the-wall warung, it's a rather pretty little spot, too, looking on to a bit of greenery out the back -- though not quite the bamboo garden the name may have you hoping for.

I should eat more veggies, I know.

The staff are very friendly and overall it's just a bit more of a pleasant, personal experience than Warung Ocha, the latter of which feels like a bit of a factory -- Taman Bambu is definitely worth the extra 100 metre diversion. There's also a very good babi guling place next door if you haven't tried that yet -- we've eaten there, but we're yet to report it as part of our babi guling series.

Warung Bamboo
Jalan Plawa No. 10, Seminyak
T: (0361) 888 1567
Open daily 09:00-22:00 or 23:00ish

Warung Ocha
Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 52
T: (0361) 736 222
Open daily 07:00-22:30

Get ready to relax.

Jalan Mertanadi is a walk across Sunset from the north end of Legian -- it's just that bit too far for most tourists to walk, meaning the street, packed with intriguing furniture and homeware shops, doesn't get a lot of foot traffic. In turn this means only a few interesting restaurants on the strip -- Little Green Cafe and a couple of others -- so Zen Garden (with parking, a rarity on this strip) is a bit of a find if you are battling the heat to find something special along this strip.

The menu is focused on healing teas, fresh juices and healthful salads, with a smattering of desserts and coffee available as well (and breakfasts). The teas are wide-ranging and include "respir", a blend of thyme, eucalyptus, rosemary and mint that should help runny noses and coughs according to the menu (20,000 rupiah for a pot); "bio purify", a blend of rooibus and nettle (25,000 rupiah for a pot); and Malang white tea (from Java) for 40,000 rupiah (also in a pot).

Juices (25,000 rupiah) include the Muscle Tonic (apple, pear, orange and lemon) and the Eva's Fertility (orange and watercress) to increase your sexual energy and breast milk production if you're lactating. After shiny skin or silky hair? That can be ordered too; well okay, the juice combinations that promote these, at the least.

I had an apple, carrot and ginger juice, and the waitress clearly explained that the juices all come without water, ice and sugar added -- would I like any on the side? A really great cafe philosophy -- both leaving all three out, and making clear you can have them if you like. The unchilled juice came in a tall glass, and I took my ice on the side and added it to cool it down -- refreshing!

My other meal was a hamburger (kidding, kidding).

They have a decent selection of salads made fresh daily and on view on the way in, in addition to those on the menu. I tried the Mexican bean salad and their cauliflower salad, which came with a slice of bread and extra dressing in a cute little bottle on the side. Both salads were really fresh, though the beans in the Mexican salad I'm pretty sure were tinned, with the cauliflower salad in particular imaginative. The little heads were blanched to a good texture and tossed with sultanas, black sesame, parsley and a few other goodies. The salads of the day range from 20,000 to 65,000 rupiah (one to four choices). [Update: I returned a few days later to see if I could get the cauliflower salad again it was so good... but the salads are on rotation, an eight-day cycle at the moment. I had a delicious rice salad and mushroom and green bean salad instead. Really good.]

The a la carte salads include the Zen Garden chicken salad, which is organic mixed greens with grilled chook, avocado and apple with a yoghurt vinaigrette and beetroot and brie cheese salad, a mix of beetroot, celery, apple and avocado and a slice of grilled bread with brie with Italian vinaigrette (each 65,000 rupiah). There's a burger on the menu for kids.

That thing about eating and swimming is a myth.

The atmosphere is new and modern -- maybe a little suburban feeling, being away from the Seminyak buzz -- with tables and chairs looking onto the pool and garden, which a waiter explained was still waiting on umbrellas and other furniture. With free WiFi and pool use thrown in, you're looking at what is surely set to be an affordable and healthy little spot to stop at while doing some shopping along this stretch of Kerobokan.

If you aren't keen on coming over this side of Sunset Road but you're in the mood for healthy eats, you could try Down to Earth cafe over on Laksmana or its sister outlet, the vegan Zula on Dhyana Pura.

Zen Garden
Jalan Mertanadi, Kerobokan
T: (0361) 911 6979
Open 09:00-17:00, closed Sundays
balizengarden@gmail.com

A quaint honorary consulate in the heart of Denpasar.

The honorary Thai consulate is located in the heart of Denpasar on Jalan Puputan Niti Mandala Raya. You can go by taxi, but it's fairly straightforward to find if you've got your own wheels. It's located just east of the intersection where the road becomes one-way heading west, a short drive east of the Japanese consulate. If heading west the consulate will be on your left, and if you pass the Gerbang Utara Banjar Santy monument while going east you've gone about a kilometre too far. The US embassy is also just around the corner.

Visa applications are accepted from 09:00 to 12:00 Monday through Friday, except on Thai and Indonesian public holidays. Processing time is three business days including the days you apply and pick up, so if applying on Monday morning you should be able to pick up on Wednesday. Like other Thai consulates pick up is only possible between 13:30 and 16:00. The Bali consulate only processes single entry 60-day tourist visas, which may be extended by 30 days in Thailand.

The consulate itself feels like a regular house -- there were a few empty wine bottles on the porch when we visited -- and the only staff we saw was one lone guy wearing a T-shirt and jeans. No numbered tickets, no waiting areas, no glassed-in official booths, and most importantly, no queues whatsoever. After a polite greeting we were given a comfy seat at a desk in the "living room" area to fill out the visa application while our consulate "official" went about his business in another room.

Mind if I hang out and make a cup of tea after I finish the application?

Although the process is fast and painless, they are sticklers for the correct documentation in Bali. You'll need a passport with at least six months' validity, a photocopy of the passport, three four by six centimetre head shot photos, US$40 in cash (no Indonesian, Thai or any other currency is accepted and it must be in exact change), and proof of travel both in and out of Thailand (air itineraries are the standard). The last bit is important; a clearly marked sign outside the consulate says in bold letters that "it is not possible to grant visas if no proofs of travel are submitted".

Bali is a fabulous place and should be near the top of your destination priority list no matter what your plans are, but if heading to Thailand at some point afterwards, you won't find a better place to take care of that tourist visa than this.

(And if you are heading to Singapore, we do explain on our Singapore blog how to get a Thai visa there.)

Royal Thai Consulate
Jalan Puputan Niti Mandala Raya
Denpasar, Bali
T: (0361) 249461

I do believe one of those recliners is MINE.

Wandering down across the wooden deck from reception and the restaurant towards the upstairs-downstairs rooms takes you by the frangipani and palm-shaded aquamarine swimming pool with a few recliners backing onto manicured gardens. Each room spills out onto the terrace with table settings for breakfast and glass-faced wooden sliding doors opening onto the interior. Once inside expect cool tiles underfoot and well chilled and spacious bedrooms.

We remember the shabby chic furnishings as being more enticing pre-renovation -- the lounges in particular are now a bit incongruous, feeling like they've been swiped from a three-star motel half way to Canberra, but it's a minor gripe. Bathrooms are compact but clean and the air-con chilled.

There are two main styles: standards, which are bedroom and bathroom affairs, and larger suites (we were shown the Lotus Suite). The latter are definitely worth the extra money as you get an entire extra room and they're better positioned. We used to stay here with young children (us in the master bedroom and the kids in the "TV room") and as long as your kids can swim (the pool is unfenced), this is an excellent option for families.

The Kresna grotto -- blissfully deserted.

It's also a delightful choice for honeymooners and those just looking for a romantic few days near the beach without paying the earth -- just be sure to ask for a room away from the families (or go for an upstairs room for extra privacy). It's a small, intimate property and less suited to those looking for a raucous beer-sozzled vacation (unless you drink your Bintangs quietly to subdued Morcheeba).

We do love the swimming pool here -- the back wall is decorative stone, giving it an almost grotto feel, and the shady frangipanis tempt one to float the day away. It is however on the small side and if the resort is busy, you'll probably opt for the beach.

Must stop taking photos with swimming pool in it.

The rack rate is inflated but we were offered an almost 60% discount (from US$300 to 1,300,000 rupiah) without hesitation as a walk-in customer, which brought the rates down to quite good value for the standard. Significant discounts are available online. If you've plonked your parents in here but can't afford it yourself, consider Sarinade Inn just up the road, which, while nowhere near as nice, is a fraction of the price and still very close to the beach.

The beach here is home to a lot of surfboard rental places and when the conditions are right, this is a good, not-too-crowded spot to learn to surf. Last tip: head down to the beach, turn right and both fancy-pants bar/restaurant Kudeta and family-friendly La Lucciola are a 10-minute walk up the beach -- they'll bang on your wallet but the splurges, at least once, are worth it.

Villa Kresna Boutique Suites
Jl Sarinade 19, Seminyak
T: (0361) 730 317
F: (0361) 732 847
info@villakresna.com
http://www.villakresna.com

Check rates at Agoda -- best price guarantee.

Photo gallery

Small is sweet.

Right! So it was off to Taco Beach on Seminyak's Jalan Kunti. The yellow-ochre walls bordered with blue and white decorative tiles lend the tiny six-tables-or-so restaurant a festive Mexican air, without being too theme-parkish. This is a restaurant that's been put together on a budget, and although the menu is short and sweet, it's an imaginative Mexican-Balinese fusion that perhaps unexpectedly works.

We kicked off with a plate of "atomic chile poppers", battered and breaded roasted chillies stuffed with mozzarella and fried (10,000 rupiah each). These were not quite atomic in their heat, but they had a bit of a bite and contrasted distinctly from the oozing cheese and crisp, ungreasy batter. Two per person were plenty as a starter and a great cheese hit -- next time we'll try the nachos (35,000 rupiah).

Yes, it's a babi burrito.

But the main course! I went for the babi guling burrito, a large burrito filled with shredded babi guling (suckling roast pork), avocado and rice plus a side of a sweetly spiced hot chilli sauce (it made the dish), refried beans with a sprinkling of feta, finely chopped fruit salad and a hefty serving of Spanish rice (50,000 rupiah). The serving size was generous and the marriage of Balinese spices with avocado and refried beans... it all worked, a lovely competition of textures and flavours where you, amigo, are the winner.

Chicken space ships. I mean, tacos.

My partner-in-comfort-food-crime went for the grilled chicken taco, a plate of two crunchy taco shells filled with chicken, Spanish rice, sour cream, a salsa verde and small corn and bean salad on the side (40,000 rupiah). It seemed to pass the American-eating-Mexican-food test, at the least.

The complete menu comprises tacos, burritos, a selection of interesting smoothies -- pumpkin pie, anyone? Aha, yes, pumpkin pie smoothie -- and desserts. Alcohol-wise, only beer is on offer as of now, so you'll have to look elsewhere to satisfy that margarita fix. We skipped the smoothies but tucked into a slice of the margarita lime cheese cake and a deep-fried apple pie taquito (15,000 rupiah each).

Hello calories!

An unlikely blend of American country-style apple pie filling rolled in a deep fried crunchy shell reminiscent of a chimichanga, the taquito was topped with caramelised cinnamon and a sprinkling of powdered sugar. The cheesecake had a home-made quality to it, which is to say, it was scrumptious and not full of gelatin the way so many cheesecakes in Bali are (trust me, I've tried). This was lovely, dense and rich, with a chocolate biscuit-y shell and came sprinkled with tiny fragments of candied lime.

When presumably the owner asked us whether we had enjoyed our meal during our desserts I mumbled amid a mouthful that it was great comfort food. "Well, yes, I got very comfortable making that for a few years," he said. I'm not quite sure what he meant, but it sounded about right.

Having never been to Mexico, I can't attest to the authenticity of the Mexican part of the menu, but they do claim that their carne asada beef tacos and baja fish tacos are just like those sold at Tijuana's roadside stands. You'll need to be the judge.

Given the lashings of cheeses and creams in many of these dishes, Taco Beach is well priced for Bali. Staff are friendly and helpful, but be warned that with such few tables, you may have to wait on a busy night (though they do have a delivery menu).

If Taco Beach is full and you're keen on an Indonesian meal instead, perhaps head to Warung Ocha back on Jalan Legian, while cheapie favourite Warung Italia is just a few doors up. And after your meal, just in case you deserve it, and let's face it you probably do, pop into nearby Chill for a foot massage (do call ahead though).

Always in the mood for Mexican and heading elsewhere in Southeast Asia? We've covered Mexican food in Bangkok, Singapore, and Phnom Penh.

Taco Beach
Jalan Kunti 6, Seminyak, Bali
T: (0361) 854 6262
* This piece written with help from my dining partner, Travelfish.org's normally Bangkok-based researcher David Luekens.

Slide choice fatigue!

The spacious "outdoor" play area -- that is, the non-air-con bit -- is still undercover, and comprises a massive slide-play-thingie, multiple swings, seesaw-style equipment and a trampoline. If you have younger kids, you'll want to divert their attention and get them inside, fast, so that they can take one of the plastic cars for a spin, get some petrol, and do your shopping for you while you sip on a latte in the small cafe. You can still see what the kids are doing from there and the good WiFi setup means you can get some work catchup done -- if you can avoid the train set.

There's a quiet play area for block building, using the train set and playing with animals and other toys, as well as loads of space to use the cars, bouncing animals, a climbing gym, carousel, and kitchen and other play equipment. And it's all spotlessly clean and well maintained.

Space, air-con and coffee. Yes please.

Admission is 85,000 rupiah per child, which includes the admission of one adult as well. Extra adults are 25,000 rupiah. Bring your socks -- for kids and adults -- or you can buy them at the door.

The cafe has a limited menu for now but plans are afoot to expand eventually. For now, chicken nuggets (10,000+ rupiah four pieces) and pizza margarita (15,000+ rupiah) should do as a quick meal, while I can recommend the brownies and muffins (each 15,000+) to go with the excellent coffee. A good range of drinks is on offer for the kids too, including juices and milks.

Watch out for the trampoline monsters!

Travellers may not drive across the island to get here, but if you're staying in the Sanur area and you've tired of the beach or it's a rainy day, this is a great option to while away a few hours. We've been long-time Fun World visitors, and still think it's a great place especially for older kids to burn off energy, but it's a 30-minute drive to get there from Sanur, while you're looking at 40 minutes to get to Cubby House or Lollipops in Seminyak. (As an aside, the coffee here is by far the best, too).

Peekaboo
Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai #17
Sanur, Bali
T: (0361) 282 638
info@peekaboofun.com

Disclaimer: Peekaboo in Sanur is owned by a friend of Travelfish.org. But as always, we never accept freebies from places we review.

Absolute paradise.

Located about 90km off the north coast of Central Java, the Karimunjawa Islands is one of those places that is amazing to visit, yet has few visitors. During non-peak times it is possible to go a full day without seeing another foreigner and this is probably due to the fact that it require visitors to Java to deviate from the normal route through the island which generally goes Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Bromo, Bali. But changing up that standard itinerary really allows you to access some amazing places such as these islands.

Hey, someone left this boat behind!

The main island is large for a remote outpost in the middle of the ocean, measuring about 25km long and 10km wide, with much of the southern section covered in jungle. Sandwiched between the jungle and the southern tip is the island's main town called Karimunjawa. This is where the vast majority of visitors stay, although it is possible to stay in a floating hotel in the middle of the ocean and at a high-end resort on one of the far flung islands.

The main form of accommodation in Karimunjawa is the homestay, where you are set up in a room in a family's house and can elect to either eat meals with them or purchase them yourself at one of the local warungs. The bathroom is shared in these homestays, of course, but all of them we inspected were clean and often reserved solely for guests, meaning you may be the only user of it anyway.

Where the bloody hell are you?

The main activities around these parts are snorkelling, diving and cruising around on a motorbike to explore the innumerable deserted white-sand beaches. Snorkelling is usually done by either arranging a boat through your guesthouse or heading down to the dock to find a local fisherman willing to take you out. The going rate is 300,000 rupiah for a five-hour boat ride to the outlying islands of your choice plus 30,000 rupiah per person for snorkelling gear. A variety of dive shops in town offer countless different options for diving on the nearby reefs. On our snorkelling trip we were a little disappointed by the coral bleaching which is underway across vast tracts of the reefs.

Just another stunning Karimunjawa sunset.

Because the main island is so large, a great way to explore is by motorbike, which costs 75,000 rupiah per day to hire -- more than you'd pay on the mainland, but worth every single rupiah as the far flung areas of the island have some spectacular beaches. The road is paved all the way to the north of the island, but most of the beaches are down the end of dirt tracks which are signposted but still easy to miss.

Our favourite of these beaches is Tanjung Gelam, a mere five kilometres from Karimunjawa town. Around Pantai Barakuda is a turtle conservation centre where you can observe staff going about their chores such as scrubbing baby turtles in order to remove slime. It's fascinating stuff.

Getting to Karimunjawa requires a ferry ride from the port town of Jepara, 2 hours by bus from Semarang. All but the cheapest of cheap will elect to take the fast ferry which only takes 1 hour 45 minutes and costs 69,000 rupiah. It departs Jepara on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. If you really must take the slow ferry, it takes six hours and departs Jepara on Saturday, Wednesay and Monday. Neither of these ferries depart if the weather is bad, so it is possible to get stuck on the island or in Jepara should you be unlucky.

Like a bus, but on water.

Until recently another ferry, the Kartini, travelled from Semarang to Karimunjawa then back to Jepara and generally had a mixed schedule that is hard to decipher. Needless to say, it had stopped running when we conducted our research due to mechanical issues and no one could say whether it would be up and running again. Still, even if it is running, the journey from Semarang on this vessel is not easy to arrange and requires you to head down to the port to buy a ticket.

So is it worth the journey to get to the Karimunjawa Islands? It all depends on what your definition of paradise is. Does this look like the sort of place you'd want to visit?

Well that's a promising start.

The simple bamboo-and-thatch warung really is in the middle of nowhere, but seems to get a reasonable amount of passing traffic thanks to its roadside location. Upstairs are around a dozen tables, with fantastic sweeping paddy views. On a cloudy day, as when we were there, the light shifts with some drama, and the panorama is a kaleidoscope of changing greens.

Look to the left...

The menu is basic, with the usual warung suspects on offer: nasi goreng, satay, noodles, Bali kopi (cowboy style coffee -- don't drink that last mouthful), pisang goreng (fried banana) and Bintang. We tried the pandan crepe, too, filled with grated coconut and slightly caramelised palm sugar, and it was much better than we were expecting -- better than the kopi, actually, on which front you should not get to excited. While I definitely appreciate the difficulties of running a warung in a location like this, the lumpy milk on the side (charged extra for) was a downer -- but in the scheme of things, not a big deal and by far eclipsed by the views. Perhaps just have a Bintang and a plate of satay, and savour this:

Look to the right...

While you're waiting for your meal or snack -- if they are busy it will take a little while -- do head downstairs, past the no-nonsense kitchen where the staff will be doing the cooking -- and take a wander through the paddy.

Or just gaze straight out ahead.

You'll stumble across all those things you're used to seeing from a distance on the road, such as shrines, some with their glory fading photogenically, and colourful floral and food offerings, always a cheerful contrast from the surrounding greens.

You're welcome to walk through the paddy...

This isn't a gourmet stopover by any means -- it's no Sari Organic, where the food is worth the destination and the views are similar -- but if you're travelling to or from Sidemen on the Amed side, this is where you'll want to stop for your (black) coffee break or lunch. Prices are a little higher than your average warung, but it's well worth it. This is exactly the Bali everyone should see.

... but watch out for the rice monsters.

Warung Organik
Br. Iseh, Sinduwati, Sidemen, Bali
T: (0858) 5701 3416
n.selamet@yahoo.com

A mud pit only accessible by ojek.

Like many other places in the world, the motorcycle taxi in Indonesia is an important part of the transport landscape, in this case filling in the gaps left by incomplete and inadequate angkot routes, shuttling people through the crowded streets of the big cities with speed and providing a good way for tourists to quickly tour cities and their surrounds without having to ride a motorbike on their own.

In many parts of Indonesia, ojeks congregate at junctions to roads that angkots don't service, train stations and bus terminals, and any other place where a ready supply of customers awaits. Armed with this knowledge, it is usually quite easy to track down a nearby ojek post wherever you are. If all else fails, any guy with a motorbike is a potential ojek, so it's quite possible to just say "ojek" to a random guy with a bike and get a lift to where you want to go.

An expensive ojek due to the condition of the "road".

Prices of ojeks are highly negotiable, but a good starting point is 80,000 rupiah for an eight-hour journey of about 100 kilometres which includes the cost of petrol. You would normally be expected to buy the guy lunch and a drink as well, but if that's awkward you can get around this by just increasing the price you pay him. If the road you are travelling on is rough and likely to increase wear and tear on his motorbike, there is excessive traffic, it's raining or the stuff you want him to do is just not appealing, the price starts to increase. A two kilometre trip should cost 5,000 rupiah, so those guys you see in the Kuta backstreets charging 50,000 rupiah for a short trip to nearby Seminyak are rip-off merchants. The moral of the story: for a fair price, negotiate hard.

Once you have selected your ojek and negotiated a price, it's time to hop on board and experience Indonesian traffic up close and personal. The bike will normally have pegs for you to rest your feet on and you will normally be given a helmet, unless the journey is short in which case your life is in the hands of the driver and the surrounding traffic. If you have a big backpack to transport as well, it is usually possible for the backpack to be stored between the driver's legs. If you have another passenger to carry, meaning three people are on board, one person will usually not have pegs to rest their feet on. The three-person motorbike journey is an experience in itself, but rarely encouraged as it is illegal and should only be used in rural areas or for short journeys.

Ojek post -- negotiate beforehand!

Ojeks are a great way to get out of the hustle and bustle of an Indonesian city where sometimes it's possible to feel trapped by the heavy congestion, thick smog and diabolical transport arrangements. Ojeks quickly get past all of this and carry you out into the countryside where green Indonesia reveals its true beauty. Give an ojek a go!

You spin me right round baby right round.

After he commented on our babi guling series, the very generous Dana from Bali Manual offered to take us to find his choice for the best babi guling on the island. So Nicky Sullivan, our visiting Siem Reap researcher, and I arranged to meet Dana and his girlfriend on the road in the early hours of the morning a week or two ago. Thankfully, the pair turned out to be completely normal and completely enthusiastic about their love of babi guling.

Mmm, spicy.

The only thing Dana requested in return for guiding us to this spot, down twists and turns and ultimately down an unmarked footpath into a literal backyard, was that we don't divulge its location. Fat chance we could, Dana! We were lost pretty quickly, though as our intrepid guide pointed out, if you get to the general area (still a longshot) and see a lone motorcyclist on the streets, you can safely bet that this babi guling joint will be their destination, so you could follow them and see... But seriously, Dana said he raised the issue of being more widely advertised to the family that runs the warung, and they prefer not to perhaps become Bali's next Ibu Oka's.

That is an entire piece of crackling coming off the pig's side.

The four of us traipsed into the restaurant just after 3:00. The pig is generally ready to be served at around 4:00 (and is served until around 9:00), but Dana had recommended getting here early so we could see the final stages of the cooking and carving process. This was excellent advice, for it's not very often you actually find babi guling cooked on the premises of the restaurant you eat it in (Warung Babi Guling Sanur, one of my favourite babi guling spots opposite McDonalds on the bypass road, is an exception).

Bamboo stuffing.

This was the true local Balinese babi guling experience -- confronting, for sure, but it must be said, ultimately delicious. For starters, the pig weighed in at around 75 kilograms, which is pretty much equal to my weight. There's something about eating an animal your own weight that makes you think, let me tell you. Then, right next to where the unlucky pig was being handspun into all its caramelised, succulent glory, was the very pen where it had likely spent the final portion of its life, along with a few live pigs snoring away the morning. Talk about juxtaposition.

Two, four, six, eight.

So let me set the scene: the stink of the pen competes with the wafting scent of the just-cooked meat. The flesh is carved off the bone, dropping into plastic trays that are whisked off to the kitchen to be properly prepped and served up with the typical babi guling accompaniments: the sweetmeats, the crackling, the lawar (they kindly asked the bules whether we wanted the fresh-blood lawar version or not). People are speaking in hushed tones. Neighbours are no doubt still sleeping.

By 4:00, more than a dozen in-the-know people aside from us are sitting at the roughly-hewn tables, waiting for their plates of pork and rice to kick off their day, or finish off their night. Life, death, morning, night; people look at the very same things in different ways, don't they?

Seconds, anyone?

The verdict? By far, this was the best babi guling crackling I've had so far, ever; that moment between glass-like crispness and melt in the mouth was the merest of a nanosecond. The sausage, too, which I was once always reluctant to try when it came to babi guling but am now impatient to assess, was rich and flavourful. The rest of the dish was on par with a few of my other favourites... which means that it perhaps pulls into the lead as my current frontrunner on the island. (Though there was no broth, sadly.) This place so far is also the only one where everyone was eating with their hands; they would have happily dragged a spoon out of the depths of the kitchen if we'd asked, but when in Rome, right?

We offered to pick up the tab, and the grand sum for four eating with gusto was change from 130,000 rupiah, including some sweet hot teas on the side and a stack of extra meat and crackling.

Want to go? You'll have to get in touch with Dana. We have a feeling that he'll be happy for the excuse to head back often. And he'll show you how to do it right.

Eat... and go on, pick up design tips too.

A celebration of fresh produce and vegetarian goodness (many dishes are also vegan or can be made vegan), the menu here is short and sweet but likely to delight with its imagination.

Come for breakfast and tuck into strawberry and banana pancakes with ice cream and honey (30,000 rupiah, but it will also cost you the lie of telling your kids they shouldn't have treat foods for breakfast) or try a Thai-style omelette with oyster mushrooms, corn, coriander and mung beans (35,000 rupiah, no fibs busted) for something a bit different.

Yum cha on Saturday, fancy lamps every day.

The lunch and dinner menu is Asian-focused and as it says on the label, noodle heavy, though a good starter is the ginger shiitake tofu wontons or spinach shallot dumplings with dipping sauces (30,000 rupiah -- we had both). Follow that up with, for instance, a laksa (baby corn, bok choy and tofu in spicy coconut milk with lime, boiled egg, peanuts, cucumber and chilli, 40,000 rupiah) or Singapore noodles (stir-fried flat rice noodles, tofu and veggies with veggie oyster sauce and sweet soy 40,000 rupiah).

A range of salads are on offer if you're after something lighter -- next time we're trying their take on Thai tofu larb with lime, shallots, chillies and lemongrass in lettuce cups with mint and toasted ground rice.

We haven't had a dessert here yet, and again the offerings are limited, but delectable sounding -- cardamom coffee cake or cranberry/white chocolate muffins, anyone? Like you'd say no.

Specials.

Three cheers too for a simple kids' menu: fried rice with egg, spring onion and a dash of soy, ramen noodles with corn carrot, greens, and sweet soy dressing (30,000 rupiah for each) or for your annoying fussy eater, white bread jam and butter sammies (25,000 rupiah).

Watch the world go by.

Though the food offerings are yummo, this is the sort of spot to take a book and while away an afternoon, or to meet friends for a catch up over a drink -- nobody's going to be elbowing you out of this sleepy but stylish little joint.

Get your fresh juice done as a frappe (20,000 rupiah), or for what sounds like more of a meal, tuck into a papaya, oat and coconut smoothie (25,000 rupiah). We can vouch for the coffee -- espresso arrangements from 25,000 rupiah, or go for a pot of chai -- slow brewed milk with cinnamon, clove, ginger and cardamom (25,000 rupiah).

It's the little things (this is a tile detail).

There's no service charge and no tax on the menu prices. Saturdays are yum cha days, but we've yet to try this, while Indonesian classes are offered but details were sketchy on our last visit, so pop in to see what's happening while you're on holiday if you're keen. A limited range of homewares and clothes are for sale as well -- you'll be inspired by the way this place has been put together, a sort of festival of Bali meets shabby chic. The kids have a little bit of space to run around and the staff are friendly.

Not a bad brunch-y spread.

This isn't the spot for a fancy meal or breathtaking views (try Om for the latter), but if you're in the mood for some healthy vegetarian food, relaxed style and friendly service -- particularly with kids in tow -- Green Ginger Noodle House fits the bill.

Green Ginger Noodle House
Jalan Pantai Brawa 46, Canggu, Bali
T: (0361) 844 6640

The caldera rim where many hotels are located in Cemoro Lawang.

This is all the more reason to get an idea of what's on offer before you arrive, lest you be stuck in a hovel when what you really want is a palace. Many of these places are included as options in the tours which are booked in Yogyakarta. Here is a selection of the best value places to stay when you're visiting Gunung Bromo.

Yoschi's Hotel (from 103,500 rupiah) is the best value for money option in town. It's a good four kilometres away from the Tengger Caldera, meaning you really need to rely on jeep services to get to and from Bromo, but because this is what people usually do anyway, it's not a big problem. A variety of rooms are on offer, including those with no bathroom and those with cold water bathroom, but all have access to communal hot water bathrooms which is a good thing because the cold water is icy. Rooms are strangely very cosy with warm lamps, thick blankets on the beds and solid wood floors.

One of a raft of more upmarket places in town, Cafe Lava Hostel (from 144,000 rupiah) is probably the only one worth the amount charged. The cheapest rooms are tiny and share bathrooms while the most expensive rooms have private bathrooms and TVs. The entire property is clean, its location is right in the centre of Cemoro Lawang next to the crater and there is an attached restaurant.

Meanwhile Bromo Permai (from 420,000 rupiah) wants to be the Hilton, but is far too dated to offer anything close to the luxury that one would expect from the prices charged. Sure, the hotel is situated right across from the stunning Tengger Caldera and each of the rooms has a modern TV and hot water bathroom, but the rooms have not aged well at all. Still, if you've got money to burn you might find this place fits the bill.

Right at the other extreme is Budi Homestay (80,000 rupiah), a real backpacker haunt and a good place for those on a tight budget -- though it's the sort of place where you'll say, "Ah, it's only a night!" when checking in. Only a night can turn into a nightmare for those used to Western comforts; a shared toilet welcomes guests as does a hot shower of questionable cleanliness. Still, you at least get a bed. But that's about it at Budi Homestay.

Budi Homestay -- budget digs.

Directly across from Budi Homestay in a good location, Losmen Setia Kawan (100,000 rupiah) promises so much and delivers so little. Rooms are grim as are the shared bathrooms, but it's cheap. So for those on a budget wanting to walk to Gunung Penanjakan and not able to get into Budi Homestay, this is a good option as viewpoint #2 is only an hour's walk away. Just don't complain that we didn't warn you how bad the bathrooms really are.

Cemoro Lawang landscape.

A few other places are on offer in town, but not much; it's quite surprising that someone hasn't built something like Yoschi's closer to the crater -- they'd make an absolute killing. Apart from these options closer to the caldera, there are a bunch of places on the road between Probolinggo and Cemoro Lawang that are more popular with local crowds rather than foreign tourists, mainly due to their isolation. If you're getting around in your own car or motorbike, these might be worth a look, but for everyone else it's not worth bothering.

The main crater of Tangkuban Parahu, Kawah Ratu.

According to Sundanese folklore, Tangkuban Parahu (literally upturned boat) gets its name from the story of Dayang Sumbi and her son Sangkuriang. Legend has it that Sangkuriang was banished by his mother at a young age for killing their dog which in some versions of the legend is also Sangkuriang's father. After many years, Sangkuriang wanders into a random village and meets a beautiful lady whom he wants to marry. This lady turns out to be Sangkuriang's mother, a fact which Sangkuriang denies. Of course, Dayang Sumbi doesn't want to marry her son, so she devises a plan designed to cancel the wedding. She asks Sangkuriang to create a massive lake and build a boat for them to travel in on their honeymoon, all to completed by sunrise the following day. Sangkuriang agrees to this immense challenge and summons a cast of spirits to assist. As the task is nearing completion, Dayang Sumbi becomes worried and summons some spirits of her own to trick Sangkuriang's spirits into thinking that it is dawn already, at which time they desert Sangkuriang. Sangkuriang now has no chance of completing the boat on his own and therefore kicks it in anger and it lands upside down in the north of Bandung where it still sits today.

Shops perched on the edge of the moody crater.

On a clear day, it's possible to see the upturned boat shape from central Bandung and one can see how such a tale could be so prominent in a society that saw this odd-shaped mountain every day.

Stories aside, Tangkuban Parahu is a fantastic volcano to visit for those not interested in hour upon hour of hiking, as is the norm for volcanoes in Indonesia, such as Gunung Bromo. In fact, it's possible to drive right to the crater edge of Tangkuban Parahu to grab a look at the immense crater below. Two moon-like craters at the summit of Tangkuban Parahu, Kawah Ratu and Kawah Upas, provide a stunning contrast to surrounding wildlife-filled forest. About a kilometre of walking on an uneven path takes you to the other side of Kawah Ratu, where Kawah Upas becomes visible and the crowds thin out -- bliss.

The rickety fence that stops people from getting too close to death.

A third crater, Kawah Domas, is accessible by foot from the main carpark. Legend has it that soaking your feet in the hot springs here has therapeutic benefits. The jury is still out on that one, but it makes for an interesting detour nonetheless.

You can get up close and personal with volcanoes in Indonesia.

Getting to Tangkuban Parahu has a reputation for being a bit of a chore for independent travellers. The cheapest option is to catch a black Subang minibus from outside the Hilton Hotel on Jalan Pasirkaliki, 300 metres west of the train station. This bus stops right out the front of the Tangkuban Parahu entrance and costs 10,000 rupiah.

Once at the entrance to Tangkuban Parahu, there are a number of different options for getting to the top. The cheapest is to walk the 4.5km uphill to an altitude of 1800m, but this is for the fit only. Others will prefer to search for a charter vehicle such as an ojek or angkot, but prices are highly variable dependent on a number of factors such as weather, enthusiasm of driver and how likely you are to walk if you don't get a good price. About 10,000 rupiah per person one way would be a good price. Getting back to Bandung is as simple as catching the black Subang bus from the entrance of Tangkuban Parahu to the centre of Bandung.

A ridge separating Kawah Ratu and Kawah Upas

It's advisable to head to Tangkuban Parahu early in the morning to avoid the crowds and the mist which both roll in around late morning. Although it's generally not cold enough at Tangkuban Parahu to require you to wear jeans and long sleeves, it's advisable to at least have a jacket packed as it does get quite cold when the unpredictable rain arrives.

Small lake at the bottom of Kawah Upas.

Discriminatory pricing is in full effect at Tangkuban Parahu with foreigners being charged 50,000 rupiah for entry versus 13,000 rupiah for locals or those with a long-term visa. Still, we reckon this place is well-worth a visit when in Bandung.

White and green with a yellow pin stripe? Surely this goes from Riung to Dago!

The term "angkot" is derived from the the words angkutan kota, or city transportation, and is used to describe the little beat-up minibuses that terrorise the streets of most cities in Indonesia. In some cities the term angkot is replaced by terms such as bemo, mikrolet and sudako, but the underlying principle of this form of basic transportation is the same -- a small bus with no fixed stops that travels along a pre-determined route. Generally these minibuses will travel to and from terminals that often offer connections to destinations further afield. The great thing about this is that if you need to get to a train station, intercity bus terminal or other transportation hub, it's likely that an angkot will be heading that way and it's just a matter of asking someone where the nearest angkot departs from.

This angkot is not heading to Los Angeles. Maybe from Landungsari to Arjosari.

The process of catching an angkot is easy. Firstly determine which angkot you wish to catch by looking at the names of the destinations written across the windscreen. Usually these destinations will be in the format of place name abbreviations such as "Caheum" to denote "Terminal Cicaheum" or "ADL" to denote "Arjosari, Dinoyo, Landungsari". Whichever way the destination is displayed on the front of the angkot, a local will be able to help you decipher it. To get the angkot to pick you up simply stand on the side of the road and wave your arm. Your friendly angkot driver will do anything possible to cut across traffic to stop.

Once on the correct angkot, the fun starts. The conditions inside angkots are cramped especially when filled to capacity and beyond. The Indonesian obsession with getting sick from the wind means that quite often the windows will be shut tight despite the interior of the angkot being as hot as Hades. Smoking is officially banned on angkots, but this doesn't stop some old timers lighting up much to the chagrin of fellow passengers. If you have a big bag, be prepared to carry it on your lap.

The seats in angkots are simple benches -- perhaps suited more to the average Indonesian body shape.

Getting off the angkot is an exercise in itself. If you want to stop the angkot anywhere along its route, simply yell out "kiri!" which means "left". Or you can let out a "kiri depan!" ("left in front") or even a "kiri kiri!" Whichever you choose, just say it loud enough so that the driver hears it.

At this point you need to negotiate your way between the masses of tangled legs filling the aisle of the angkot. After stepping on countless toes as you make your way to the door, but sure to duck on your way out: the number of times we have smashed our heads in the hurry to exit the angkot has led to a slightly deformed skull -- at least the locals get a great laugh out of it. It's at this stage that payment should be made through the passenger-side window. Bank on a seven kilometre journey costing about 3,000 rupiah and a kilometre journey costing 1,000 rupiah. Everything in between will be 2,000 rupiah give or take -- it's an incredibly cheap way of getting around a city.

Unfortunately there are no seabelts on an angkot.

Catching an angkot is a great opportunity to chat with locals going about their daily business, whether that be a trip to the market or returning from the office. Angkots are also the favoured location for street performers who ride around the city trying to scrape together as many coins as possible from the public -- 500 rupiah is the going rate.

Angkot drivers are incredibly keen to get your business and will help as much as possible to get you to your destination by offering advice on connecting angkots, directions to your hotel and by dropping you off as close as possible to your final destination without you having to know exactly where you are going.

Sought-after by some, despised by others, the front seat divides opinion.

We can't sing the praises of the angkot and its brothers the bemo and mikrolet enough. It's a cheap and fun way to get around town and hassle free once you overcome the initial confusion of which one to catch. Want to know more about angkots? Ask us in the comments.

Debris problems... but tides were unusually high.

One of the loveliest spots for a cheap beachside lunch in Seminyak is Mano, right next to the more salubrious and much pricier La Lucciola. Well okay, they're maybe about 100 metres apart, on opposite sides of the car park for Petitenget temple (with babi guling just across the road, by the way, if you are keen on trying that particular Balinese dish while in this area). While La Lucciola is great for a special occasion, it's not so great for the hip pocket on a regular basis. Mano, on the other hand, though a little pricier than warungs, isn't too bad at all. If you can find something cheaper in this prime beachfront area, please do let us know about it and we shall investigate.

Definitely beachside.

During our last visit a month or so ago, the surf was really pounding and tides were extremely high; I'd never seen the water line so high here and the surf in fact was lapping at the retaining wall outside the restaurant. It also meant a lot of debris was floating around, so, as it was when we first arrived in Bali, the view was unappealing. On a normal day, however, it's pretty fine. (Still, let's not pretend Bali doesn't have some environmental problems -- especially trash issues.)

What the sign says.

But back to Mano. We're talking decidedly no-frills, with a few wooden tables and chairs under a roof, but otherwise open to the elements, a few little bales where you can sit cross legged, and a few spots out in the sun during the day -- save those for dinner or sunset, I'd say.

Buddhas, boats and ... bits and pieces.

On the menu? It's really a range of what you typically see on many classic cheapie "international" menus, but with a few nice quirks. A basic drinks range includes juices, coffees and smoothies -- a latte is 17,000 rupiah, a yoghurt honey smoothie is 21,000. Select from Indonesian dishes such as soto ayam (chicken soup, 19,000 rupiah), salads such as tomato and feta in a basil pesto sauce (27,000 rupiah) or a guacamole salad (lettuce, mashed avocado, chopped tomato and garlic bread, 26,000 rupiah). International mains include good old spag bol (42,000 rupiah) and a margarita pizza (39,000 rupiah). It's all very old-school local feeling, with simple flatware and so on, and friendly, obliging service.

Pretty touches.

Come to Mano for a lazy meal when you feel like breathing in sea-spray air and savouring an ocean view, but you don't want to fork out for it. I wouldn't travel across the island to dine here, but I would check it out if I was staying at a hotel in the Petitenget/Seminyak area and was on too tight a budget to splurge at the fancypants neighbours along here.

Mano Beach Side Cafe
Right hand side of Petitenget Temple car park (parking 2,000 rupiah)

The acidic lake filling Kawah Ijen. Swimming not recommended.

Since Bondowoso lies inland in the hills 30 kilometres from the main highway which travels along the north coast of Java and Kawah Ijen is a further three hours from there, it takes much longer to travel via Bondowoso when travelling between Kawah Ijen and Bali than the alternative Banyuwangi route.

The surrounding mountains along the road to Kawah Ijen from Banyuwangi.

With this in mind, if travelling from Bali it is possible to hire an ojek in Banyuwangi for the journey up to Kawah Ijen, have the ojek driver wait for you to climb up to the crater. The ojek can then to take you onwards to the bus terminal in Bondowoso or to a waiting angkot in the first town on the way down from the crater that is serviced by public transport, Sempol. This way you can avoid having to backtrack and waste time.

Some 70 kilograms of sulphur waiting for human transportation.

The same is true for those travelling in an easterly direction from places such as Gunung Bromo. Buses from dusty Probolinggo on the coast below Gunung Bromo will take you directly to Bondowoso, where most will stay overnight before taking an angkot to Sempol early the next day. From Sempol it is possible to hire an ojek who will take you to Kawah Ijen, wait for you and then take you onwards to Banyuwangi or a further six kilometres to the ferry port for onward travel to Bali.

In the bowels of the crater.

The road from Banyuwangi to Kawah Ijen starts off in great condition, but as you get closer to the top, it deteriorates into something resembling the surface of the moon. It's steep, rocky and even cars have trouble traversing it. But that's part of the adventure of travelling this way. After a few voluntary motorcycle dismounts and some involuntary near dismounts, you arrive at your destination a good few hours ahead of most other travellers choosing the more circuitous route via Bondowoso.

We know this is not the moon because of the surrounding jungle (and the motorbike).

Whichever route you choose, the utlimate prize is witnessing Kawah Ijen -- and that makes everything worthwhile.

The prize that awaits those with determination: magnificent Ijen crater.

So pretty.

We turned up a weekend or two ago without a reservation, and snared a table for two by the entrance. The restaurant was pretty much full the entire time we lingered there; being near the host desk, we even got to hear an Australian guy insist he was "a really famous Australian footballer -- so do you have a table for us?"

Can you see the famous Australian footballer?

Sardine sits on Jalan Petitenget in Seminyak/Kerobokan overlooking that patch of paddy between the road and Umalas that seems to be fast disappearing, forsaking rice for bamboo scaffolding as the concrete jungle encroaches. At night, the view is of beautiful lights and lit up umbrellas stretching into the distance, sort of like a study in distance points for art students. It really is pretty. The restaurant itself is set under a soaring bamboo structure, open at the sides to the elements, lending it a casual al fresco feel; an upscale blend of back-to-nature, historical Bali, breezy and chic.

Fiery entrance. Doesn't scare away footballers.

We liked the local twist on the cocktails -- Bunga rosella cosmopolitan, a mix of vodka, rosella infusion and orange juice (90,000 rupiah), plus an enticing range of arak cocktails -- arak madu with arak, honey, fresh lime and nutmeg for 60,000 rupiah or a fancier espresso arak martini, a mix of arak, kahlua, espresso and cocoa powder for 85,000 rupiah. Alcohol is prohibitively expensive in Bali; these prices are on par or less than upper end restaurants.

Historical snap of Bali.

I am a sucker for a beautifully written menu; I think many people are and more restaurants should hire writers to do their menus, to be frank. Doesn't "Papua crab tower" sound better than say just "crab", evoking images of crabs scuttling in rainforest-filtered streams atop difficult-to-reach mountains? Yeah, sucker, I know. But the crab, mixed with avocado slices, tomato and mango, nestled in a papaya and lime coulis (85,000 rupiah -- plus 8% service, 10% tax on all prices listed here) was really, really good. Obviously if you don't like fruit in savoury dishes, this is so not for you, but if you do; goodness, I could have had two.

Crab. Ahem, Papua crab tower.

But my memory of Sardine from earlier visits was that the sardines were good -- and I'm partial to sardines in Bali as I know they're caught fresh offshore (or at least, I can buy them fresh from my oddly named fishmonger -- so oddly named I can never actually remember it -- on the bypass, as well as Dijon, just in case you're self-catering and must have fresh fish.)

So I elbowed Mr Travelfish into having the grilled sardines (with steamed potatoes and tomato salsa, 90,000 rupiah) which I do believe he enjoyed, while I had as a main the starter of smoked sardines with warm potato salad and caper berries -- big fat juicy delectable caper berries, if you must know (65,000 rupiah).

Mmmmmm.

It was indeed a little piece of Scandinavian delight, though as the fish were from nearby, perhaps I need to adjust my world view a little.

The overall Sardine menu is seafood-heavy -- grilled octopus with warm chick pea salad and lemon and red wine vinaigrette (80,000 rupiah) was another dish I could have easily checked out for you, dear reader, else the pan-seared diver scallops with mushroom ravioli, parsely truffle emulsion, with oven-cured tomato and herb relish (235,000 rupiah) could also have done with attention. Do you need me to return, dear reader? Do you?

Another seafood dish was the grilled lobster (over coffee firewood -- see above about the money good menu writers bring in to a restaurant) with organic Bedugal veggies (120,000 rupiah per 100g); this Bedugal veggies thing is important.

Tick tock.

Sardine has its own patch at the Organic Farm Bali, along with a clutch of other Bali restaurants who prefer to remain anonymous, apparently fearful of their competition catching on and doing the same thing. We give Sardine big points for firstly doing this, and secondly, publicising their move.

If you're not into seafood, meatier and a couple of veggie options are available -- single chicken, duck and tenderloin/lamb dishes or a veggie risotto will satisfy non-seafood lovers.

We did occasionally feel a little rushed by over-eager waitstaff wanting to take our plates away before we were done; I guess that comes with a full restaurant.

Simple.

Wine isn't cheap here -- though nor is it anywhere else, so don't let this be a black mark -- but you can get a bottle of Hatten rose for 300,000 rupiah. The average bottle is around the 750-800,000 mark, with a glass of Oddfellows 2009 chardonnay 110,000 rupiah -- so I think you're better off going for a bottle or sticking to no alcohol -- a small Bintang is 40,000 rupiah, the same price as a raspberry mint iced tea.

We didn't go for the desserts, but we would have loved to linger at the lounge fronting the paddy. Gosh, we really are going to have to go back for that, aren't we?

Sardine
Jalan Petitenget 21
T: (0361) 738 202;
http://www.sardinebali.com/
Closed Mondays

A river valley on the journey from Malang to Gunung Bromo.

If visiting the city of Malang, it is possible to reach the Tengger Caldera and Gunung Bromo much more quickly than taking the circuitous route of heading to Probolinggo and then up the hill to Cemoro Lawang. Better still, you can head to Bromo one way and depart the other, allowing you to see two totally different but spectactular sections of scenery that truly are a joy to behold.

Jeeps making their way across the savanna around the back of Gunung Bromo.

The route from Malang starts on the side of the road, looking for an angkot to take you to the Arjosari bus terminal. Luckily for you angkots travelling to Arjosari pass most main roads in town frequently from early in the morning to late at night. Look for any angkot with the letter A on the windscreen -- such as an ADL or GA -- and it will get you to the terminal for 2,500 rupiah.

Farming the incredibly steep slopes around Gunung Bromo.

Once at Arjosari, catch an angkot to Tumpang, 24 kilometres away for 5,000 rupiah. In Tumpang, things get interesting.

There are two ways of getting to the Tengger Caldera, Gunung Bromo and accommodation in Cemoro Lawang. The first and easiest way is to charter a motorbike taxi (ojek) to carry you and your luggage for 80,000 rupiah up the steep ridge, which affords some absolutely magnificent views. It gets cold along the way and long pants and a jacket are a good idea.

The second way of getting to the top is by jumping in a shared jeep, which departs from the Tumpang market, for 60,000 rupiah. The problem with this method is that the jeeps only leave when there are enough passengers, meaning that a long wait could be in order. Worse, they simply won't depart at all if enough people don't show up, so it's advisable to arrive early and with a backup plan to use an ojek if the jeep option doesn't materialise.

Dreamy savanna around the back of Gunung Bromo.

The good thing about heading to Bromo from this direction is that you get to pass through the savanna at the back of the caldera which is an incredible contrast to the Sea of Sand around the front -- something the vast majority of visitors to the area simply do not see. It is so impressive that we reckon it's a must-see if already in the area. The other good thing about this route is that it's easy to make a slight six-kilometre detour to the town of Ranu Pane where hikes to Java's tallest volcano commence from.

Of course, you can do this entire journey in reverse for the same price. It's a great way to do something a little bit different when visiting Gunung Bromo.

Shutter madness.

It's a modern take on the Coliseum, with a dramatic entrance into the amphitheatre inside from behind the facade. You'll walk up a narrow sort-of hallway, which opens onto a large circle of green lawn, with restaurants arching to the left and right and the foam of Seminyak beach's waves frothing just metres away from the infinity-edge pool.

A windy, rainy season day at Potato Head -- not at its best, but still looking pretty good.

We've eaten a few times at the beachside restaurant, both during the day and at night, and on daybed/lounges as well as the dining tables. A French restaurant, Tapping Shoes, drips in chandeliers and offers more formal, air-con dining  and the other outdoor restaurant, Lilin, serves up Asian cuisine on large communal wooden tables. It's a big undertaking, three-restaurants-in-one, plus a shop -- which you are made to exit through, sort of like Sydney airport's duty-free, only even more expensive -- and a busy party schedule, as well.

Another marvellous mosaic, but looking up from when you're, well, sitting down.

It's taken Potato Head a little while to find its feet service wise, which can be disappointing when you're ordering pricey cocktails. Despite the prices, the cocktail list is compelling -- pineapple and cracked pepper margarita? Georgian mint julep? (each 100,000++ rupiah) -- and competitive for the market. And just FYI: you may think you are not getting a buzz from the lemongrass and mango sangria (500,000++ rupiah for a jug enough for six glasses), but trust me, you are.

Make mine something breezy.

I am happy to report that the service on our most recent visit last week was great. Meanwhile the food, for the quality and again compared to the competition (particularly KuDeTa) is fair.

We had a decent Nicoise salad on our last visit, though the visit before that we were a tad disappointed with the fish and chips; the fish was delectable but the chips were fast-food style rather than a chunky hand-cut version. That may sound like we're a bit overly picky, I know, but everything about the fabulous surrounds leads you to think you're going to consistently get something really special on your plate, you know?

Make mine something sunny and breezy.

If you're on a budget, but willing to splurge a little for a special experience, you can make Potato Head work for you. Come early, grab a daybed, have a coffee, a swim, another coffee then a grazing lunch -- avoid the alcohol and you'll probably not spend too much but have a memorable morning and early afternoon in one of Bali's top locations. (Though do remember there are plenty of other beautiful beaches in Bali where you can enjoy a drink and meal for next to nothing.)

Presentation: I'd say that's a pass.

Do be aware that we were told during our most recent sunset visit that there's a 500,000 rupiah minimum spend on the beds -- presumably that applies at all times, but you might want to call ahead of time to check, as these kinds of things can change depending on the season and time of day.

Our overall assessment? Definitely go just to savour the architecture, which may be simple in its execution, but is quite ingenious in conception. Have just a coffee or a light meal if you're on a tight budget; if you've got more money to spend, then Potato Head's beachside restaurant is fine value for its ilk on the island.

Potato Head Bali
Jalan Petitenget
T: (0361) 473 7979
www.ptthead.com
Open daily 11:00-02:00