Thai people from different parts of the country don't always agree on everything, but one area that without question pervades all of Thailand is a love for the spicy, salty, sour and sweet flavours of Isaan-style salads. As a bit of a disclaimer, while these salads are on the whole considered northeastern Thai (Isaan) cuisine, each region has developed distinct ways of preparing them, and it's probably fair to say that these are just Thai-style salads. Yet we love the loud and often painfully spicy flavours of the northeast, so we're giving Isaan its due.

No shortage of colour in the art of Isaan salads.

By far the most famous of the salads, and arguably Thailand's signature dish, is som tam. There are many subcategories to som tam, but most of them -- and actually most Isaan salads -- include loads of fresh chillies and garlic for the spicy, fish sauce for the salty, palm sugar for the sweet, and fresh lime juice for the sour. The most common som tams are made with shredded unripe or green papaya for its fresh, crunchy texture.

Tamarind, gapi (shrimp paste), peanut, dried shrimp, green bean, carrot and tomato are considered universal "take them or leave them" ingredients, but the secret of good som tam is not found in the ingredients but rather in nailing that delicate balance of flavours.

Some of som tam's key ingredients -- feel free to design your own.

Unless modifying the salad with a fragile ingredient, like fresh fruit or corn, som tam is typically made by pounding the ingredients with a mortar and pestle, and it's believed to have been made this way for more than 6,000 years (at least that's what an Isaan native tells us). Som tams are often teamed up with khao niew (sticky rice) and gai yang (grilled chicken), the more quiet flavours of which ease the sharpness of the salad. And a som tam would not be complete without a side of fresh veggies like cabbage, green beans, and tam ba tun (morning glory stems), which are a must for cooling the tongue.

Som tam gai yang khao niew -- could there be a better lunch?

Central Thailand's version, som tam Thai -- which includes roasted peanuts, dried shrimp and a sweeter taste -- is what's typically served in Thai restaurants all over the world. Isaan-style som tam, however, goes heavy on the spicy and sour and is often made with puu pla raa or pickled crab mixed with a pungent fermented fish sauce along with raw Asian eggplant. True Isaan som tam puu pla raa grins mockingly at the comparatively gentle som tam Thai, and while it might be over the top for some, the extreme spiciness and fishy saltiness of it can be a religious experience for the adventurous.

Make no mistake about it: even when requesting them "phet nit noi" (a little spicy), Isaan salads are usually more runny nose and tear inducing than watching that heart wrenching scene when E.T. finally goes home while chopping up a dozen onions, so be sure to have some tissues handy.

Som tam puu pla raa -- proceed with caution.

Variations on som tam come in many forms -- a handful of examples include tam taeng (substitute cucumber for papaya), tam mamueang (substitute green mango), tam tuewa (substitute string beans), tam baa (substitute bean sprouts and other veggies), tam phonlamai (substitute fresh fruit), and tam khanom jin (throw in some Chinese style vermicelli size rice noodles). Som tam is even finding its way into the fusion laboratories of modern cuisine blending chefs; we've given both som tam kim chee and deep fried som tam a try, and found both to be worthy adaptations of the classic.

Fried som tam -- unreal.

Som tam is clearly the most popular Isaan salad, but there are many more. If prepared well, my personal favourite not only of Isaan salads but of any Thai dish is muu nam tok or "waterfall pork", a spicy and tart mingling of grilled pork, mint leaves, scallion, red onion, parsley, basil, finely crushed toasted rice, and the sweet, sour, salty, and spicy base mentioned above, though in nam tok sour surpasses sweet. It can also be done with beef, but I find pork to fit in best with this addictive blend of flavours. Allow me to reiterate: if I were dying tomorrow and had only one dish to choose for my last meal, it would be nam tok. It's just that good.

Muu nam tok -- nothing beats it.

Then there's laap, a fiery but bold salad that features roasted chillies and garlic added to finely chopped chicken, pork or duck, a bit of scallion, and a few mint leaves for a hint of cool. The Isaan specialty laap ped (spicy duck salad) is the source of much upcountry pride, and I'll never forget the first time I gave it a whirl in Ubon Ratchathani. After years of practice, I can handle some serious spice, but this stuff was so hot I nearly jumped into the Mun River to put out the flames in my mouth.

Laap muu -- another work of art.

There are too many Isaan salads to mention here, but deserving honourable mentions are yam talay, which features similar ingredients as those in nam tok but with a mix of shrimp, squid and often bits of lemongrass, and suep naw mai, a mix of pickled bamboo shoots pounded with crushed toasted rice and an addictive spicy-salty-sourness made distinct by the earthiness of the bamboo shoots. And we can't forget yam woon sen, a delicate glass noodle salad that's usually served heavy on the onion, parsley and cilantro.

Yam woon sen with preserved salty egg and seafood -- ever so delicate.

Now that you've learned the basics on the fine art of Isaan salads, where should you go in Bangkok to critique them if Udon, Ubon, or Mukhadan aren't in your plans? Isaan-style street restaurants aren't hard to find (just look for the mortar and pestle), but stay tuned as we'll be reporting soon on a specialty joint that whips out 22 different types of som tam-style salads. Hope you like it spicy.

*Sincere thanks to Isaan native and som tam aficionado, Chinnapatt Chongtong, for her help with this post.

Tags: isaan salads, nam tok, northeast Thai salads, som tam, Thai salads, yam woon sen

In the concrete maze of Bangkok, colourful flowers brighten up the greys around every corner, but it's not just because they look nice; flowers play a pivotal role in an ancient Thai tradition of making offerings to spirits and sacred representations as tangible expressions of kindness and generosity. Bangkok's biggest flower market, Pak Khlong Talaat, is at the centre of this tradition, and it's a fun place to soak up the colours.

Flowers are big business in Bangkok.

Located near Memorial Bridge along the Chao Phraya River and near Maha Rat Road and Chak Phet Road, a busy market has operated at this locale since at least the mid 1700s. Pak khlong talaat means "market at the mouth of the canal", and long ago it would have been a floating market.

In the 1800s it was largely a fish market before switching to produce and eventually becoming Bangkok's flower epicentre during the mid 1900s. A few fish vendors can still be seen today, and the north side of the market is one of the best places in town to buy fresh fruit and vegetables along with traditional Thai sweets. A handful of street food carts also offer some outstanding authentic Thai fare here -- coconut sticky rice with durian anyone?

Oh Thailand, how I love you.

If looking for something to hopefully put you back in the favour of your sweetheart, Pak Khlong Talaat has got you covered. A host of vendors specialise in classic bundles of roses and other bouquets in every possible colour. Most vendors are wholesalers, so it's possible to pick up two dozen gorgeous, freshly picked red roses for just 80 baht (but you don't have to tell your sweetie that).

While most of the flowers at Pak Khlong Talaat are grown in the provinces nearest Bangkok, rarer varieties like tulips are shipped from as far afield as the northern mountains of Chiang Rai, and you can even bargain for an awe-inspiring array of freshly cut orchids that will cost something like 1/50 of what they would in Europe or the United States.

It's Valentine's Day every day!

Pak Khlong Talaat is most certainly where everyday Bangkok florists go to stock their shelves, but by far the majority of flowers found here are destined to be woven into phuang malai garlands and used as offerings. Some will be offered to images of Buddha inside temples or on the shrines of private homes. Others will find their way to ancestor spirit shrines, spirit trees, or one of the countless dedications to Hindu gods like Brahma and Indra.

Many phuang malai -- perhaps even a majority -- will be dangled from rear view mirrors of the taxi cabs and cars that brave Bangkok's crowded streets. Far more than just a way to freshen the air, the garlands are placed on or near sacred Buddhist amulets and other spiritual items that adorn dashboards of cars and are believed to protect or bring good fortune to those who wholeheartedly respect them.

Phuang malai ready for temple, or your car.

All of these offerings are made both in recognition of perceived 'higher' spiritual entities or powers, and in the belief that giving phuang malai to a spirit or representation of the sacred will increase one's positive merit, hopefully leading to a fortunate rebirth in the next life and good luck in this one. Interwoven with a deep belief in karma, merit-making is also done by giving money and food to monks or anyone in need, or at a deeper level, simply by being kind. Yet, phuang malai is the most recognisable tool for signifying one's generosity in a tangible way, and many of Thailand's poorest people still find a way to offer them everyday.

Crafting phuang malai garlands is an age-old Thai art that entails patiently threading a needle through tiny jasmine buds and other small flowers repeatedly until something beautiful -- something worthy of being offered to a god -- has been created. Especially throughout daylight hours at Pak Khlong Talaat, skilled artisans create phuang malai for all to see, and an especially intricate garland can take several hours to create. If going in the evening you're sure to catch glimpses of some of the most ornate flower garlands in the country.

Craftspeople at work.

Pak Khlong Talad is open for business 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year (so you have no excuse not to go), though it's busiest in the evenings and predawn morning hours when shipments arrive (this can be a particularly photogenic time as well). The market is sandwiched between Chinatown to the south and Rattanakosin to the north, so it's smack in the middle of Bangkok's tourist trail. Despite this, it doesn't attract all that many tourists, and it most definitely retains a local air.

To get here, you can walk a little more than a kilometre south from the Grand Palace area on Maha Rat Road, or take the Chao Phraya Express boat to Memorial Bridge pier. If by boat, exit the pier, take a left on the nearest road, then a right at the 7-eleven. You'll start to see flower stalls along the foopath, and from there, just follow the smell of jasmine.

Tags: flowers, merit making, offerings, Pak Khlong Talaat, phuang malai, spirit houses

When visitors come to Thailand, they tend to have a mental to-do list, derived from overheard stories at hostels, or the pages of a guide: ride an elephant, pet a tiger, eat a ripe mango, lay on the beach, and of course, visit a floating market. All of these things are possible, but the problem is, everyone else has the same idea too. Take Damnoen Saduak floating market, a Venus flytrap for swarms of tourists and avoided by Thais. But luckily, Bangkok, once called the ‘Venice of the East’, has rivers and canals twisting through in curlicues, and with them, numerous floating markets, including Bang Khla, Amphawa and most recently Bang Nam Pheung.

Partially floating market

Bang Nam Pheung is relatively new to the floating market scene, and unlike Damnoen Saduak, actually caters to locals. Situated just south of Bangkok in Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan province, Bang Nam Pheung is a designated agricultural zone, and the floating market was created to showcase the products of the region and stimulate the local economy. What makes Bang Nam Pheung different than most tourist destinations within Thailand is its emphasis on sustainability and eco-awareness, opting for banana leaves and coconut husks rather than the typical plastic bags in plastic bags in plastic bags.

Oyster omelette for your health.

The region is rich in natural resources, producing crops such as lemon, bitter gourd, bananas and mushrooms. Many of the stalls within the market sell only one kind of produce, or specialise in crafts made from raw materials native to the land, inspired by the One Tambon One Product initiative.

The floating market, which does not technically float, is an argosy of handicrafts you can’t find elsewhere, fresh produce, and delicious prepared food you can enjoy by the silty waters. The best way to tackle the market is by coming with an empty stomach in the early morning, and eating your way through to the very end. Once you're full, eat more. My floating market favourites? Tod man (fried catfish covered in a delectable sauce), oyster omelettes made to order, juicy Isaan sausage and coconut ice cream.

Soothing chimes to set the mood.

Reaching the floating market is no easy feat, but worth the trek. To make a day out of it, you can rent bicycles or a boat to journey down the river, visit the local Mon-style Buddhist temples, meander through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden, or even visit a haunted building and mystery lake. For a full Bang Nam Pheung excursion, stay overnight at Home Stay Bang Nampheung, or if you’re feeling like splurging, Bangkok Tree House, a luxury eco-hotel immersed in mangrove palms.

The market is open weekends 07:00-15:00, though vendors start packing up as early as 14:00. To avoid crowds and get the freshest foods, come as early as possible.

The easiest, yet most expensive way to reach Bang Nam Pheung (a 45 minute to one-and-a-half hour drive from central Bangkok), is by hiring a taxi for the full day (try Mr Kampol Srisomboon at 086 750 3634), as it will be more difficult to find a return taxi back to central Bangkok once you are there. You can also take the MRT to Klong Toei station or Queen Sirikit station, and from there, take a motorbike taxi or taxi to Klong Toei pier (Tha Klong pier). From the pier, take a longtail boat (10 baht) to Chaeng Pier on Ratrangsan Road, and then a motorbike, taxi, or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. Alternatively, you can take the BTS to Bang Na station, exiting from stairway #2, and then take a motorbike or taxi to Sanpawut pier, and from there, take a cross-river green ferry. From the other side, you must take a motorbike, taxi or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. You can also take an air-con bus to Phra Pradaeng from Victory Monument (#140), Chatuchak district (#138), or Bang Lampu (#82).

Home Stay Bang Nampheung
33/2 Moo 3, Bang Nam Pheung, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan
T: (08) 9825 0107, (02) 461 0843
350-400 baht

Bangkok Tree House
Moo 1, Bang Nam Pheung, Samut Prakan
T: (082) 995 1150
Doubles from 4,690 baht/US$150
www.bangkoktreehouse.com

Tags: bangkok tree house, damnoen saduak, floating markets, markets, one tambon one product

Technically speaking, Bangkok has only three long distance bus terminals. Yet the buzzing streets around Victory Monument are a base for fleets of minibuses, not to mention endless streams of local buses, a BTS station, and enough taxis, motorbikes and tuk tuks to make your head spin. Finding the right minibus can be tricky because virtually all signs are posted only in Thai, and because there are a handful of minibus "zones" servicing different destinations. We've navigated the Victory Monument maze, however, and figured out how and where to catch that minibus so more of your time can be spent enjoying your destination, not trying to get there.

We promise you victory in finding your minibus.

Minibuses ("minibus" is just another term for van) are usually a bit more expensive than traditional buses, but they're considerably faster and more consistent. They also tend to be newer than regular buses so they break down less often, and they're almost always air-conditioned. The minibuses around Victory Monument only serve a general central region of the country, so don't expect to get to Chiang Mai or Hat Yai from here, but some do go as far afield as Chanthaburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Kanchanaburi and Ko Samet.

There are several mini bus companies operating from what we'll call different "zones" (okay they're really just side streets and parking lots) in the immediate Victory Monument area. While some serve different destinations than others, it's possible to get to Pattaya (97 baht) or Hua Hin (180 baht) from any of the zones. There is a good deal of overlap among companies for plenty other destinations, but less frequented spots are only served by one or two companies. Virtually all fares fall in the 100 to 200 baht range, with less distant destinations like Don Muang airport (30 baht), Suvarnabhumi airport (40 baht) and Ayutthaya (70 baht) costing less.

You could always just hop in and see where you end up.

To make it as simple as possible, let's use the Victory Monument BTS (sky train) station as our starting point. To find our first minibus zone, head out of the BTS station at exit 4, go down the stairs, and then walk straight along the footpath for a short distance. Here you'll find one of the larger and more organised minibus stations -- it even has proper ticket windows rather than makeshift sales counters on the street.

Minibuses are available from here to Chachoengsao, Bang Khla, Amphawa, Samut Songkhram, Phetburi, Pak Chong (Khao Yai), Ratchaburi, and Lopburi. As with all the zones, signs are listed in Thai only (apart from Pattaya and Hua Hin), but you should only need to mention your destination before one of the roaming minibus guys shuffles you off to the right vehicle. Prices are fixed and instances of attempted scamming are rare.

If you take the same exit 4 out of the BTS station but pull a U-turn at the bottom of the stairs, another large row of buses are just a short walk away. From here you can also get to Ratchaburi as well as Nakhon Pathom, Kanchanaburi, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chonburi, Nakhon Sawan, Rayong, and Ko Samet.

Your friendly minibus ticketing agents.

To reach an altogether different zone, head towards exits 3 and 4 out of the BTS station but pass the exits, continue straight along the sky walk, and then take your first left down the stairs. Go straight into the footpath market maybe 30 metres, and then look to the left. Here you'll find a side street that winds beside the market where minibuses may be caught to Nakhon Ratchasima, Pak Chong (Khao Yai), Ratchaburi, Nakhon Sawan,  Muang Gan, Nakhon Nayok, Minburi and Ayutthaya. If in need of fuelling up before your journey this area is a great place to enjoy some tasty street eats.

To reach our last minibus zone, head straight out of the sky train station towards exits 3 and 4 and continue on past the exits to the sky walk again, but this time turn to the right and walk a bit just beneath the sky train track. Look for the "Fashion Mall" shopping complex on the right, and take the stairs nearest to it. At the bottom, head straight across the street to Ratchawithi Soi 10, where you'll find minibuses to Chantaburi, Trat, and Suvarnabhumi airport, along with several other destinations mentioned above. Back across the street at Soi 11 there's also a minibus that runs to Don Muang airport.

And away you go!

Minibuses to virtually all these destinations depart every 30 minutes to an hour between 06:00 and 17:00 every day, with several buses to major destinations running up until 21:00. Keep in mind however that traffic around the monument can grind to a crawl during rush hours (around 08:00 and 18:00). Victory Monument is located in north-central Bangkok, in the bustling but sparsely touristed Din Daeng area.

And, there you have it -- if you want to get out of Bangkok fast, head to Victory Monument and you could be whizzing through countryside in no time.

Tags: minibus, victory monument

What do you get when you take a picturesque river setting and add friendly locals on row boats serving a plethora of fantastic, traditional Thai food? On a recent day trip to Bang Khla floating market east of Bangkok we found the definitive answer: a lot of very happy people. Like most of Thailand's modern floating markets this one exists more due to local tourist money than anything else, but there's no doubt that a good floating market helps keep Thais in touch with two vital elements of their ancient culture: food and boats.

Keeping it real.

In the old days, floating markets existed as a natural extension of a society connected by seas, rivers and canals. Situated in western Chachoengsao province along the Bang Pakong river, the modern Bang Khla floating market only developed in recent times, but markets have existed in one way or another at the site for hundreds of years.

Locally known as the "land of two water sources" due to this part of the river being a submerging point for fresh waters from the north and salty waters from the south, the Bang Khla area is home to a wealth of agriculture. So bountiful is the land that the legendary King Taksin led his battered army here to regroup immediately after it fell to Burmese forces at Ayutthaya in 1767. A memorial to the king still stands as tribute in the centre of Bang Khla town.

Unlike other markets there's plenty of space to sit and enjoy.

Due to it being relatively small, and requiring some effort to be reached from Bangkok, Bang Khla is well off the foreign tourist radar. Although it's popular with weekending Bangkokians, the market retains a definite country charm.

I'd like a boat load of som tam please.

While buying a couple fresh coconuts we chatted it up with a vendor who teaches English in a Bang Khla school on weekdays, contributing to the weekend market as more of a hobby than a means of livelihood. Whatever their reasons for spending weekends here, a great deal of pride was evident both in the demeanor of the local vendors and the fabulous edibles they produce.

Don't mess with the khanom ladies.

A healthy smattering of traditional Thai treats, snacks and meals can be sampled here, but Bang Khla is best known for its local fish and seafood. Fresh as can be and hot off a floating grill, whole river fish, jumbo shrimp, crab, squid and a range of shellfish fill the market's air with savoury scents.

So you can catch a fish and grill it right there on the boat -- brilliant!

We arrived to Bang Khla right after a rather freakish food indulgence at Khlong Suan old market, and our stomachs didn't have a lot of room leftover. We did manage, however, to devour a mix of fresh cockles and mussels with an array of chilli-lime-garlic based dipping sauces, chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad, and a fiery plate of som tam puu paara (green papaya salad with salty crab).

Our modest late afternoon spread.

For what constituted our fifth dessert of the day, we also couldn't resist the local Bang Khla specialty, thoowa pap -- a semi-sweet finger food made from locally produced peanut, jasmine flower, palm sugar, pandan leaf and shredded coconut along with rice flour for consistency and aan chan (Asian pigeon wing flower) for the bright, natural purple colour. The Bang Khla area is also known to produce some of the best mangoes in all of Thailand, so we made sure to stock up: six kilos of sour green and yellow sweet mangoes for just 120 baht.

Wonder if anyone would notice if I just went for a little fruit cruise?

Bang Khla is located some 80 kilometres east of Bangkok, so plan on a whole day if coming by bus or a half day if you have your own wheels. Buses run to Bang Khla at least twice an hour from both Morchit (northern) and Ekkamai (eastern) terminals in Bangkok, and either way the trip takes a little over an hour without much traffic. You could also catch a train to Chachoengsao at Bangkok's Hualumphong station and hop on to a bus to Bang Khla from there.

Once in Bang Khla you can take a songthaew, motorbike taxi or tuk tuk (tell them "talaart naam bang khla") to the market, which isn't far from the bus station. It's also possible to negotiate a taxi from Bangkok, which could take you round trip to the market and back for around 1,000 baht. Or, do what we did and combine Bang Khla with Khlong Suan as part of a full day market adventure. Bang Khla floating market runs on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 07:00 to 16:00.

Tags: Bang Khla, Chachoengsao, floating markets, markets

One of Thailand's most treasured temples, the Golden Mount of Wat Saket glistens above Bangkok's historic Banglamphu area as imposingly today as it did more than 200 years ago. Wat Saket's living history, peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views of Bangkok have made it one of my favourite major sites in the city, and when a friend comes to visit I always make sure to bring them here.

Tired of crowded and noisy Bangkok? Wat Saket provides relief.

First established during the Ayutthaya period in the 1700s, when Bangkok was nothing but a small trading post, Wat Saket is one of the city's most historically prominent temples. Although it often takes a back seat to Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Arun, and Wat Pho on the Bangkok tourist trail, Wat Saket actually predates any of these.

Even in this age of elevated trains and skyscrapers, Wat Saket makes itself known.

The temple is particularly cherished by Thais thanks to the powerful military commander, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, who would later become King Rama I (founder of the still reigning Chakri Dynasty and one of Thailand's most important historical figures), using the temple grounds as a place to rejuvenate between his constant military pursuits in the region during the late 1700s. The Thai words, sa and ket,  refer to "shower" and "hair", so Wat Saket got its name due to the king-to-be cleansing himself here, both physically and spiritually.

Don't worry, there's a coffee shop half way up.

The Golden Mount (phu khao thong) was built within the Wat Saket grounds by Rama I's grandson, King Rama III in the early 1800s. Rising some 58 metres above the ground, the steep human-made hill is crowned at its top by a large golden chedi that's believed to house relics of the Buddha. Waterfalls, flower gardens and prayer bells are found all along the stairways winding to the top, and from the first step upwards Wat Saket is nothing short of a soothing experience.

After passing through an enclosed shrine area, a steep stairwell emerges on to an open-air platform centred around the main chedi at the very top of the structure. Here, a small crowd of locals are usually found offering flowers, candles, incense, and prayers as a few tourists soak in the atmosphere. Even on the hottest of days a refreshing breeze gently chimes tiny gold leaf bells, each representing a donation from the lay community.

A surreal city scape from atop Wat Saket.

The Golden Mount was Bangkok's tallest structure until the 20th century, and although dwarfed today by modern skyscrapers its location among an ancient neighbourhood of two-storey buildings still allows for some impressive 360-degree views of the city.

Above the chaos of Bangkok.

Though the Golden Mount is the main draw for tourists, Wat Saket is a sprawling temple that also includes a cavernous ordination hall and many other smaller buildings, shrines, stupas and alleys. The temple has long been a centre of local and national Buddhist activity, and the temple is as alive today as it has ever been. On special occasions, such as New Year's Eve and Visaka, thousands of monks and members of the lay community take part in a candlelight procession that streams from the main hall to the top of the Golden Mount and continues late into the night.

If here around 17:00 you can check out a traditional chanting service in the main hall.

As with all functioning temples or sacred places of any religion, it's important to be respectful of local culture by acting and dressing appropriately while visiting Wat Saket. The temple is located in the heart of the Banglamphu historical district near the busy intersection of Thanon Ratchadamnoen and Thanon Lan Luang, a short walk from Democracy Monument to the west or the Giant Swing to the south. The Golden Mount is open to visitors everyday from 8:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.

Tags: Golden Mount, temples, viewpoints, Wat Saket

On one side of Soi Texas (formally known as Soi Phadung Dao), a scraggly soi in the middle of Chinatown, sits the Red Shirts, and on the other, the Green Shirts. The Red Shirts are probably not the ones you are thinking of; the long-standing fracas between the Red and Green Shirts has little to do with Thai politics but rather it all comes down to crabs. And char-grilled freshwater prawns. And raw oysters on the half shell.

A fugue state in Chinatown.

The Red Shirts make up R & L Seafood, and the Green Shirts, T & K Seafood. Reading their menus might induce a mild case of deja vu, but Red and Green shirt enthusiasts and purveyors of food feuds would argue differently. In the case of defusing a bomb, I’ve been told to avoid the red wire, but on Soi Texas, I would go for the red without looking back. Why? Maybe for no better reason then it was the first of the two I frequented, and as they say, you never forget your first time.

The dress code is street-chic with an added sheen of sweat, and the venue is pavement blocks and tables akimbo. You can get a steamed lobster served to you on porcelain at a buffet brunch in Bangkok, but on Yaowarat Road, the shellfish comes on plastic plates and there is no pretence of luxury. In the words of our own Brock Kuhlman, great late night street eats are a must. And push any fears of a lack of food safety aside: because the contents of R & L’s pop-up kitchen are splayed out on the street, and they have to restock their inventory daily, the seafood is likely fresher than anything you could buy inside the walls of an air-con restaurant.

Go Red!

A local and farang favourite, R & L (and its chartreuse neighbour, T & K) is always packed, and an infelicitous choice for large groups or those who want privacy. But the red-clad staff are used to dealing with flocks of customers and adept at making room for you in what feels like an elaborate game of musical chairs. The lengthy and overwhelming menu is in both English and Thai, with accompanying photographs to aid you in deciding.

Every seafood dish I have ordered has been delectable – I still daydream about the curry-powder crab – so you can’t really go wrong. The accompanying vegetable dishes, in comparison, are lacking, but sautéed morning glory or kale drenched in brown sauce help break-up an otherwise protein heavy meal. My method? Bring a few friends, order shrimp, oysters, clams, mussels, crabs, prawns, a whole fish in varying sauces – taste a little of everything, and everyone goes home happy. The dishes range from 100 to 400 baht each (the whole fishes get steep), but are worth every baht.

Streetside chic.

R & L (Rut & Lek) Seafood
Phadung Dao Rd, Yaowarat Rd
Open Mon-Tue, 19:00-3:00;Wed-Thurs 21:00-12:00; Fri-Sun 18:00-01:00
If you take a cab, ask for Soi Texas on Yaowaraj Road or look for lit-up 'Texas' signs.

Tags: chinatown, R&L Seafood, seafood, soi texas, T&K Seafood

Historic sites are often the main draw for travellers, but exploring ancient neighbourhoods built around important historic landmarks can sometimes be even more fascinating than the sites themselves. While recently wandering the narrow side streets around Bangkok's Wat Saket, I stumbled on the gritty but intriguing temple supply neighbourhood of Baan Bat, which has been in action continuously since Wat Saket was first constructed in the 1700s.

Back alley Buddhas.

Some of Bangkok's oldest standing structures, the neighbourhood's Sino-Portugese shophouses, were built long before the Thai capital was moved down the river from Ayutthaya almost 250 years ago. Most of the houses have remained in use for centuries, and though some look like they could collapse at any moment they possess a distinctly weathered charm. The neighbourhood's narrow but central street -- Thanon Bamrung Muang -- was originally a canal that wasn't converted into a road until the second half of the 20th century.

The buildings may be old, but they don't lack character.

Old temple supply shops line Bamrung Muang's western end, offering everything from orange fabric to be sewn into robes for monks, to candles, incense, and Buddhist chanting books, to a dizzying array of statues depicting every conceivable posture of the Buddha.

Thailand: the world's largest producer of orange fabric.

In keeping with Thailand's intermingled spiritual cosmology, which contains not only elements of Theravada Buddhism but also Mahayana Buddhism, Hinduism, and an ancient and complex tradition of indigenous spirit worship, the shops along Bamrung Muang also offer images of the Buddha's historical disciples, famous Thai forest monks, Hindu deities, protective spirits, and Mahayana icons like Kuan Yin, the goddess of compassion.

Kuan Yin, providing reassurance to passing drivers as she awaits her new home.

Always approaching life from a superstitious viewpoint influenced by a deep rooted belief in karma, many locals place small flower offerings on some of the statues in an effort to appease the iconic personas they represent. Although the statues have yet to be officially consecrated by monks, they're still considered sacred to many and should be respected as such.

Pick me, pick me!

Walking this part of Bamrung Muang feels like being dropped in some ancient, strangely urban fantasy world inhabited by glistening, timeless deities (and the odd bus or tuk tuk), and the area is well worth a visit just to see the temple supply shops. The most famous aspect of the neighborhood, however, is the hand-made alms bowl community of Baan Bat.

Tucked down a small side street off Bamrung Muang, Baan Bat has been home to a small group of locals who have made their livings for centuries by producing hand-made alms bowls to be purchased by the faithful and donated to monks. The community continues to function today in the exact same location -- and in much the same way -- as it would have ten generations ago.

Baan Bat -- Keeping an ancient art alive.

Virtually every single monk in Thailand (and Burma, Laos, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka) uses alms bowls to collect donations of food from the lay community each morning, a custom in place since the Buddha is believed to have lived more than 2,500 years ago. Although they're typically factory produced in Thailand today, the Baan Bat community persists with an age-old method of crafting the bowls from slabs of raw steel using only their hands and a hammer.

For hundreds of years, the tapping of hammer on steel has been heard here.

Baan Bat's locals are a charming and friendly lot, always excited to share their craft with visitors. Polished, hand-made bowls -- some more than 50 years old -- are available for purchase, but visitors are left with a smile whether they buy a bowl or just watch the craftspeople at work.

A picture of pride.

To reach Baan Bat from Wat Saket, exit through the eastern gate and take a right on to Thanon Worachak. After a short distance turn right on to Bamrung Muang at the traffic light, then continue another 100 or so metres before turning left down the narrow and nondescript Soi Baan Bat. The Baan Bat alms bowl community is situated a short way down on the right. There's a sign that's not exactly clearly visible, but if you miss it chances are a local will appear yelling "monk's bowl!" If not, just follow the sound of steel being hammered. To reach the best stretch of temple supply shops head back to Bamrung Muang and go left, continuing west towards the Giant Swing.

Tags: alms bowls, Baan Bat, Buddhism, monks, Wat Saket

If you followed our street food adventure series, you’ll know that the best way to experience Thai food is by getting down-and-dirty on the congested Bangkok streets. As a general rule, the cheaper the food, the better the taste; the more limited the menu, the fresher the food. But then there is the other extreme: restaurants in the highest price bracket that offer air-con, delicious cuisine and a fresh towel to wipe your brow. And, if you’re going to splurge, you might as well go all out with a five-star, all-you-can-eat buffet. That way, you can store enough food in your stomach to last a day or two, or three. Turns out to be a deal, right?

Don't stop here.

If seafood is your protein of choice, I can recommend the weekend ‘Craving for crustaceans’ buffet at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s Viola! Despite its odd list of descriptors – Parisian, Thai and heavy on the seafood – the recipe seems to work. The experience comes at a steep price (1,800 baht, 50% off for five to 12 year-olds), but if you eat enough mussels shipped in from New Zealand, they might even lose money on you.

After my intrepid search for quality cheese on pizza in Bangkok, I nearly reached nirvana after seeing a room devoted solely to cheese here. You read that right: an entire room. And further afield from the main buffet table, tucked away so you won’t notice it until you’ve already stuffed your stomach beyond human capacity, is a brick oven with made-to-order pizzas.

While Viola’s diverse assortment of delicacies is confusing, gastrointestinally, you can get a little of everything (or a lot). Don’t forget the tower of chocolate fondue. And if you’re not too stuffed, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit has direct access to Bangkok’s newest commercial behemoth, Terminal 21. Walk off the meal while window shopping.

Still not full?

For setting with a touch of swank and a lot of splendour, Riverside Terrace at the legendary Mandarin Oriental is host to a nightly barbecue by the riverside. I would venture to say the quality pales ever so slightly in comparison to Viola!, but the enviable views of the Chao Phraya river make up for this. A felicitous way to award yourself after a full day of sightseeing at Wat Pho, Wat Arun, and/or The Grand Palace, Riverside Terrace offers an all-you-can-eat-and-then-some buffet (2,766 baht, 2,001 baht for children) replete with ice sculptures. Ice in Bangkok!

For an early dose of luxury, the Mandarin also entertains guests in their Authors’ Lounge, a patrician affair fit for royalty with tea, crumpets and all. If you like the real estate, but aren’t up for plowing through a buffet, you can always head to Viva and Aviv for tropical drinks by the river.

So fresh and from so far.

If you're after a flash brunch, St Regis Bangkok fills the bill with its Sunday Brunch at VIU. With sweeping views of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, get deliciously full and trashed at the same time with unlimited Bloody Marys and martinis of the week, and a buffet spread that includes such Bangkok rarities as foie gras and Boston lobster (2,400 baht, includes drinks). While your stomach struggles with digestion, be soothed by the sound of jazz from the in-house saxophonist. Oh, and grab a plate of the slow-roasted lamb if you still have room.

Viola!
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 2^nd floor
189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15, Bangkok
Open: 06:00-10:30/12:00-15:00/18:00-22.00 (All-day buffet, seafood buffet weekends)
T: (02) 126 9998-9

Riverside Terrace
Mandarin Oriental
48 Oriental Avenue, Charoenkrung Soi 40, Bangkok
Barbecue buffet: 19:00-23:00
T: (02) 659 9000 ext 7610

VIU
St Regis Bangkok, 12^th floor
159 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok
Sunday buffet: 12:00-16:00
T: (02) 207 7819

Tags: all-you-can-eat, buffets, Mandarin Oriental, riverside terrace, Sofitel bangkok, st regis, viola!, viu

Chatuchak and Siam Square are great places to shop in Bangkok, but if looking for an authentic, non-touristy Thai market, sometimes it's necessary to stray off the beaten path. Khlong Suan old market is most certainly out of the way, to put it nicely, or in the middle of nowhere, to be blunt, but for a taste of traditional Thai culture -- and a food experience that could very well be a highlight of your trip -- it's well worth the extra effort.

What treats await beyond these walls?

Khlong Suan is a canal that was once the fastest way to journey from Bangkok to the more easterly Bang Pakong River and beyond. It was along this canal that the market sprung up more than 100 years ago, and it has long acted as a central meeting point for traders, travellers and farmers from all over central and eastern Thailand. Most of the boats have today been replaced by cars and buses but the market is still a middle ground for people from Bangkok, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Chon Buri provinces, attracting day-trippers from as far afield as Rayong to the south and Nakhon Nayok to the north.

Not a foreign tourist in sight.

The market was eventually named after the canal, which itself was named from the fertile grounds that surround it (khlong suan translates to "canal of gardens"). Though weathered and rather dilapidated in places, the market possesses a wise and noble air. A living and breathing memorial to traditional Thai culture, it doesn't look or feel all that different today than it would have when Thailand was still known as Siam.

The area surrounding the market can feel more like an old neighbourhood than a market.

While the old market's history adds some extra mystique, most visitors come for one reason only -- to eat. For food lovers who don't shy away from the exotic, this place is heaven with a liberal helping of fresh chillies and fish sauce.

Just as it would have looked a century ago.

So what did we try? The better question would be what did we not try? We started off with deep-fried Chinese-style veggie dumplings (khanom guiy chai), then on to some psychedelic looking preserved eggs with salted bean and fish (tort mun kai yeow mah).

Look in to the secret orb, I mean, egg.

Next it was deep-fried pork wontons with sweet chilli sauce (khanom tung tong), followed by coconuts stuffed with pureed sweet and spicy fish red curry and topped with a healthy splattering of rich coconut cream (haw muk mawt phlao). And these were just the appetisers.

Sweet, savoury, magnificent; or in Thai, simply aroi.

After a brief traditional Thai coffee break we dove back in with northern Thai-style curried soup with crispy noodles and chicken (khao soi).

Half-way through this khao soi I needed reminding that I was not in Chiang Mai.

And then, dessert: durian- and roselle-flavoured popsicles, coconut ice cream mixed with coconut meat and peanuts served in a coconut shell, and finally some spongy taro and strawberry flavoured southern Thai style cakes, still hot from a clearly visible on-site oven.

Roselle and coconut ice cream treats -- elegant and refreshing.

Always plotting our future food adventures, we also snatched up homemade egg noodles (ba mee), raw local spices like turmeric and galangal, dried shiitake mushrooms, particularly sweet mangoes that are difficult to find elsewhere, and freshly roasted peanuts (you know, for the road).

Ensuring the long trip back will be a pleasant one -- peanuts.

We were by this point feeling a little on the stuffed side, so we decided to go for a walk across the canal's signature, unusually high foot bridge. On the way, we checked out a small museum within the market that had, among other things, some dusty old three-quarter full bottles of scotch on display. Before making it outside we had a look at some of the non-food items available in the market: a traditional chewable stimulant made from betel nut and tobacco; homemade brooms and baskets; pet fish; and live turtles.

I'd run too little fella; best of luck to you.

Getting to Khlong Suan is a little tricky, but if you're up for an adventure (or for forking out some baht to a tour company), you will be rewarded. The cheapest way is to catch a Bangkok to Bang Khla bus from Ekkamai, but make sure to tell the driver you want to be dropped at "talart khlong suan." Buses leave regularly throughout the day and it's a little less than an hour (without much traffic) once you're on the bus.

To get back you can wait to flag down a returning bus along the main road near the market, or if getting antsy you can catch a songthaew bound for the bus stations of either Prachasoengchao or Bang Khla, either of which will have buses heading back to Bangkok.

"Come on, I dare you to make the trip."

Khlong Suan is about 25 km directly east of Suvarnabhumi airport along Lat Krabang Road, so another option is to take the airport link commuter train (which has a connection to the BTS sky train at Phaya Thai Station in Bangkok), and catch a taxi from somewhere in the airport vicinity. If wanting a return trip make sure to negotiate a price with the taxi driver before leaving the Suvarnabhumi area (around 500 baht seems fair to us; more if you want to linger for longer than 45 minutes to an hour).

Of course, you could also catch a taxi from anywhere in Bangkok, or if all of the above sounds too daunting there's no shortage of Bangkok-based tour companies that can arrange guided trips to the market in the 1,500 baht per person range (cheaper if you can get more than a few heads together).

Khlong Suan market is open every day from early morning until around 16:00.

There's another good market in Bang Khla, which we'll be reporting on soon, so stay tuned if you want to make it a full day market adventure.

Tags: Khlong Suan old market