In typical travel-hipster fashion, I covet my little-known, off-the-map, you-probably-haven’t-heard-of-it finds: the sidewalk bar that serves Isaan-style pork croquettes, vintage clothing on the abandoned floor of Union Mall, the, um, Japanese toilets at Terminal 21. My latest find? 1001 Nights Gallery, which is on the other side of the Chao Phraya River.

No Nescafe, I promise.

Conceptually, I felt like I was Moses taking a trip down the Nile in a woven basket, though in reality, it was just one BTS stop beyond Saphan Taksin. Below the gallery is the 'House of Commons' cafe, which is a peaceful, if not memorable, place to read or chat. The best part? There won’t be any fellow travellers there, feverishly highlighting their guidebooks and making you feel inadequate.

Contagious smiles.

Venture upstairs, and you will find 1001 Nights Gallery, the artistic baby of Zakariya Amataya. Amataya’s soft-spoken voice, whispy goatee, and unassuming posture do little to convey his role as the latest mover-and-shaker in Bangkok. He is someone to keep an eye on: a poet, political activist, and the first Muslim to win the Southeast Asian Writers Award. The son of illiterate farmers, Mataya writes mainly in Thai, which is not even his first language. He grew up in the deep south of Thailand bordering Malaysia, beyond the tropical paradise most tourists see. Having experienced the violence of the 'red zone' first-hand, his political inclinations inform, but do not define, his poetry. He writes in long, open-ended free verse, ripe with nostalgia, fear and hope.

It's poetry time.

His latest project, 1001 Nights Gallery, is an art space which nurtures open dialogue and positive change -- with poetry, movie, politics, philosophy, music and story nights attracting the young and the curious. While most events, presumably, will be in Thai, Amataya is making an effort to integrate English-friendly components. But don’t let the language issue be a barrier -- sometimes it’s nice to check out another culture’s niche events, even if you can’t understand the words; and the (budding) photography gallery requires only your eyes.

1001 Nights Gallery
666 Charoen Nakhon Rd, at the corner of Charoen Nakorn Soi 22 and opposite Shell Petrol Station
BTS: Krung Thon Buri
See their updates for future events

Tags: 1001 Nights Gallery, galleries

When I heard the name V64, I envisioned a more advanced version of V8, the red juice with eight different vegetables treasured by mothers and juice masochists. But V64 Art Studio is named after Vibhavadi-Rangsit 64, the quiet street 20 minutes north of nowhere, which forms the base of some 75 artists in more than 30 studios.

A familiar scene given new dimensions.

“Who are V?” and “What do V do?” V64 says on its website. For anyone who has discovered how loosely the term gallery can be used in Thailand -- in some cases it's not unlike calling a stack of books a library or a box of band-aids a hospital -- then you've been conditioned to keep your expectations low.

An artistic jungle.

While I sat in the back of the taxi on the way to V64, watching the meter rise, I prayed there would at least be some street food near the studio to make the trip worth it.

An army of Victorian ladies and gents.

But V64 is unlike any other art space I have encountered in Bangkok, and powerful enough to wipe away any preconceived notions I had about the state of contemporary art in a country where funding art is a low priority, aside from the recently reviewed Bangkok Art and Culture Centre.

An artist's process.

The space comprises a working art studio and residency, gallery, sculpture park, art academy and music school, community space, coffee shop and bar, and gift shop.

Scary, adorable, or both?

V64 was conceived by the artists in Section 7 of Chatuchak Market seeking a communal space that could support the thriving creative scene in Bangkok and allow for an interactive viewing experience.

Pretty yet dripping faces.

V64 may be ambitious in its endeavour, but the artists running the show look like they’re having too much fun to be concerned. The art is varied in its quality, which may just be the difference between great and greater. The general impression is of painstaking technical craft paired with refreshingly bold concepts.

A hi-so gallery space, replete with tea.

The artists occupy their spaces differently. One artist installed a dipping pool and hanging lights in a space no bigger than a freshman college dorm room, while another left barbed wire and open cans of paint on the ground, as either an artistic statement on the process of art, or a lazy cleaning job.

Dizzying wood.

The individual spaces together form an elaborate collage of different mediums, bursting with personality and demonstrating an earnest desire to create. Visitors are free to wander in and out of the sculpture park and galleries, which start to feel like a fun house at a carnival as you pass by distorted abstract murals and brass statues of open-mouthed demigods.

V64 Art Studio
143/19 Changwattana Soi 1
(Vibhavadi 64 Road), Bhangkhen Laksi, Bangkok
T: (02) 973 2681/2 or 089 143 0986 (mobile) ‎
BTS: Mo Chit
MRT: Chatuchak or Phahon Yothin (north)
From there, it's a 20 minute taxi ride. Ask your driver to take you to Changwattana Soi Neung (Soi 1)
Bus nos 510 & 29 pass by Vibhavadi Road
Open daily 10:30-20:30
Entrance is free. Art is priced according to the artist. The gift shop offers reasonably priced take-home items from many contributing artists. If you plan to stay around the northern Bangkok area, another thing to visit is the vintage clothing section of Union Mall in Lad Prao.
v64artstudio.com

Tags: galleries, V64 Art Studio

If you're searching for fine art, masterfully curated and periodically refreshed, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) is likely not for you. But if you define 'fine' as suitable for a lazy Bangkok weekend, the BACC is an ideal venue. The BACC does not demand much of your time or any of your money; you can rove in and out of the exhibits as you please, with no need for any order.

An artist working his magic.

The best feature of the BACC is not necessarily what hangs on its walls, but the structure itself: a modern collage of rounded corners and straight edges, with a spiral interior, twisting tightly like a shirt wrung out to dry. Even on weekends, the building remains empty compared to its bustling neighbour, MBK. Why furry iPhone cases and blonde hair extensions  are more sought after than art is grist for the aporia mill, but consider the extra leg room a blessing.

Start your visit at the cafe on the third floor, a cosy spot for basic coffee, tea, hot chocolate and homemade banana muffins. Then make your way through the small galleries, lined up in a row like a school dormitory. Due to a hazy mix of construction delays and bureaucratic red tape, some spaces are either unoccupied or half-occupied -- as if the artist went out to buy canvas tacks and never came back.

A post-modern exhibit on the art of movement. Or, an escalator.

Stop by the tables lining the galleries to admire the work of impressive local artists, where you can talk to them about their process and buy greeting cards and other knick-knacks to take home. The facility also features frequent art talks (in both English and Thai) and even a black-box theatre with mime artists.

A painting on display.

Though the BACC is by no means a trip to the Louvre, it is a pleasant space with the potential to support Bangkok's art community. Quirky, confused, and free of charge; a perfect way to spend a rainy day in Bangkok or an excuse to escape the heat.

BACC (Bangkok Art and Culture Centre)
39 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan
BTS: Connected to National Stadium, or a short walk from Siam
T: (02) 214 6630-1
www.bacc.or.th
Tue-Sun 10:00-21:00

Numerous venues in Bangkok are marketed as galleries, but for anyone looking to visit a proper gallery disappointment may ensue when some of these locales reveal themselves to be little more than a bar with a few framed photos. While we previously rounded up a list of galleries around the city that are worth a peek, and did some exploring of the art section at Chatuchak Weekend Market, here are two additional modern art hubs that present some of the most cutting-edge and creative exhibitions in the city. They offer more than a brewsky and mass-produced prints.

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

All you need is art.

BACC  is Bangkok's most popular spot for contemporary art. With gallery spaces, film seminars and educational and cultural programmes on here, there is a never-ending stream of activities and exhibitions to choose from. While it is good to check in on their site to see what is currently going on, it's also worth just heading over and going for a wander. They host a slew of galleries, an art library and numerous cafes and small shops, so there are places to explore on every floor of this circling Guggeinheim-esque building. Even if none of the galleries tickle your fancy, the building is quite lively and there is plenty to do here by way of snacking, exploring and people watching.

Located just off the National Stadium BTS station. Open Tue-Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission is free, except for special events. T: (02) 214 6630

Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC)

So this is design, eh?

With a diverse rotation of exhibitions, TCDC is known for being both thought-provoking and hands on. The exhibitions here often have interactive components and even occasionally feature accompanying kid-friendly activities. My first visit to TCDC was to see an exhibition on the influence and history of spirits and ghosts in Thai society. With videos, installments and sculptures, walking through the space felt like a trip to a very stylised haunted house.  This exhibition has since closed but TCDC seems to have a constant stream of compelling new work; it is well worth checking their website to see what is on during your time in Bangkok. An equally interesting permanent exhibition uses classic designs from 10 different countries as a lens through which to view societal culture. TCDC is also home to a members-only design library, but free one-day passes are available if you would like to check out their resources. There's also a very worthwhile gift shop with a funky selection of eclectic jewellery and tchotckes.

Located on the 6th floor of Emporium Shopping Complex. Take the BTS to Phrom Phong station and enter directly into the mall from there. Open Tue-Sun 10:30-21:00. Entrance is free. T: (02) 664 8448

Tags: design, exhibitions, galleries, libraries, modern art

Artist Elizabeth Briel is set to host Art Stalkers this Saturday June 25, a walk through some of Bangkok's best art galleries and spaces. We spoke to her about what she hopes to achieve with the walks, which she plans on holding on the last Saturday of the month -- wherever she may be.

Yeah, but where is the art?

Travelfish.org: Is this the first "Art Stalkers" event?
Elizabeth: Yes! I'm keeping it to a straightforward itinerary for this first one: easy access to public transport to keep it to 3 hours. We're meeting at a central location: the BACC in Siam, and finishing off on Sukhumvit, near where many of the guests live.

Travelfish.org: How many do you plan and how regular do you expect them to be?
Elizabeth: I plan to do them on the last Saturday of every month, wherever I am. For June to August, that's Bangkok. From September to December I'll be an Artist-in-Residence at the USM Penang, so will do Art Stalking in Penang and Kuala Lumpur on the last Saturday of those months.

WTF at WTF.

Travelfish.org: How did the idea for the walks come about?
Elizabeth: Like most artists, I make regular trips to galleries to take the pulse of the art being made in studios and schools around me. While making art is often solitary, looking at it with company offers new perspectives and questions. But I've found art openings aren't the best time to really get a look at the art: they can be crowded, and getting past the beautiful people and their drinks to the artwork can be a challenge.

One day I ran across this group of creatives in New York run by artist CJ Nye and I thought: "Why don't I do that here in Asia? Art's a social thing, and it'd be more fun to do the rounds of galleries with company."

Travelfish.org: There are a stack of galleries in Bangkok; what will your focus be?
Elizabeth: Good question. There is far too much to cover in a single afternoon, and Bangkok's public transport, while better than ever, doesn't offer convenient access to some of the spots for cutting-edge art, like Toot Yung gallery. Even the HOF gallery near my home/studio is a hike for most visitors.

Modern Thai art ...

Still, most of the flagship art can be seen at venues near the MRT/BTS lines. I'll usually take an entire day to do my 'rounds' but can't expect that of others. So for this first trip we're sticking to tried-and-true transport to galleries with easy access, at a reasonable pace.

Travelfish.org: Will you be seeking out galleries for looking/buying? And what kind of art will you be hunting down?
Elizabeth: A mixture of commercial galleries and art spaces. Some visitors may find art they'd like to purchase, and everyone is likely to be surprised by the art Bangkok has to offer.

My priorities are the shows I find most compelling every month: artists who are creating at an ambitious scale and with unexpected media, or who are breaking cultural or artworld taboos. I've put together a flexible itinerary from the listings in Bangkok's Art Map, an incredible resource for art in the city.

Travelfish.org: Do you have any favourite galleries you'd recommend people who are in Bangkok for just a short visit go see?
Elizabeth: For looking at art, the BACC is a great place to dip into if you're already shopping in Siam. I'm a big fan of the casual atmosphere, it's a fun spot to people watch: you see students hanging out and studying; curious Bangkok-based creatives strolling up the Guggenheim-esque spiral stairway; and some good shows and cultural events too.

... and art in a more traditional vein

The Jim Thompson Art Centre nearby sponsors some innovative projects in Thailand, and his house is worth a look while you're at it.

Kathmandu Gallery is run by photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom and his wife, the fearless Ing K. Their renovated shophouse is an atmospheric respite from Silom Road, and their photo shows often have a refreshing political or social edge.

WTF Cafe promotes some fantastic Thai art in their upstairs gallery, and I recommend trying one of their knockout cocktails while you're there.
There are also many good commercial galleries in Bangkok. Here are a few of my favorites:

Galerie N has a good selection of Thai artists, from emerging to established. La Lanta features Thai and international artists, and frequently Chinese artists like Lu Jun, whose innovative 'digital ink paintings' will cap off the walk this weekend. And Thavibu Gallery shows some daring art by Thai and other Southeast Asian artists, like Le Quang Ha, whose lacquer and oil paintings are a stunning experience in his studio.

Here's a link to Saturday's event on Facebook and Art Stalkers walks are currently a category on my website. I'll post and archive all info about them there.

Tags: art stalking, galleries