The Bangkok floods have put quite a dampener on the month of October; as we write it seems Bangkok has been put on disaster alert so things are not looking altogether optimistic. We're going to be upbeat though and still list what's on for our favourite satanic holiday, coming up in only 10 days. Some foolish souls might assume Bangkok doesn't mark Halloween; but these are probably the same people who put on a witch hat and call it a “costume”.

See below for where to get your spooks on if all is well and dry in the capital at the end of the month. (And if you're by chance heading to Singapore to escape the waters, here's what's on for Halloween there.)

My flood costume. Too soon?

October 28, 2011
Voodoo Village Black Magic Night
3 DJs, a snake show, and a live African drum circle?
Koi
26 Sukhumvit Soi 20
T: (02) 258 1590
20:00 onward
Free entry

Monster
Ghosts and goblins on repeat
Narz
112 Sukhumvit Soi 23
T: (02) 258 4805
20:30-05:00
500 baht, includes two drinks

October 29, 2011
Twilight Halloween Bash
For closeted Twilight fans to dress up like Edward Cullen
Café de Bangkok
Opposite Ekkamai 21
T: (08) 3859 3708
19:00–02:30
500 baht, includes finger food and open bar from 19:00-22:30

*Vampire coincidence! A Twilight party will also be taking place at VIE Hotel a day earlier

Betwitched This Halloween
Be a sexy witch or wizard, win a blackberry
Witch’s Tavern
Sukhumvit 55
T: (02) 391 9791
18:00–01:00
Free entry, free pizza

Wobble Halloween
Bass and drums for your holiday
Club Culture
Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd
T: (08) 9497 8422
21:30 onwards
150 baht, includes one drink

Glow Halloween Party
Costumes and cocktails
Glow Nightclub
96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23
T: (02) 291 4446
22:00-04:00
300 baht, includes one drink

October 30, 2011
Rumble in the Jungle
Haunted forest where ladies get in free
Q Bar
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11
T: (02) 252 3274
20:00 onwards
500 baht, includes two drinks
Free entry for women until 24:00

October 31, 2011

Yelloween Party
Keep it classy on the only day of the year you don’t have to
Balcony’s Lounge at the Intercontinental
973 Ploenchit Road
T: (02) 656 0444
19:00–01:00
1,200 baht, includes one glass of Veuve clicquot and two glasses of Ketel One Martini

New Orleans Voodoo
A little taste of Louisiana in Bangkok
Bed Supperclub
26 Sukhumvit Soi 11
T: (02) 651 3537
19:30–03:00
1,000 baht, includes one drink

*Note: there is no haunted BTS. Sorry.

Tags: balcony's lounge, bed supperclub, bewitched this halloween, cafe de bangkok, club culture, edward cullen, halloween, koi, new orleans voodoo, q bar, rumble in the jungle, twilight, vie hotel, voodoo village black magic night, witch's tavern, wobble halloween, yelloween party

If you are looking to go somewhere cosier than Glow’s dance floor on a Friday night, you can always head to one of Thailand's world-famous pubs. No, I jest.  Pubs are like pizzerias or taquerias in Bangkok – keep your expectations low, your stomach empty, and you will be pleasantly, if not moderately, surprised. German beer halls may have a more sophisticated beer selection, but where else can you read a News of the World in mint condition while enjoying a cold Carlsberg?

The Robin Hood happy hour to the rescue.

For some “traditional” pubs, and by traditional I mean an expat’s overseas business venture fuelled by a twinge of homeland nostalgia, The Robin Hood is a good place to start. The Robin Hood claims to be an “English-style pub”, and serves customers who have come to Bangkok and never left and those who are just passing through. The crowd is on the wizening side, but the owners keep it lively with sports events, a trivia night, a Thai band playing 60s beats, and a nightly happy hour.

Rather pleasant outdoor seating.

The Queen Victoria Pub, though regal in name, is dingy in actuality. Irony at play? Maybe not, but an ode to the British monarchy never hurt anyone. On their menu, their address is simply listed as  “across the street from Soi Cowboy”, the not-so-hidden underbelly of Bangkok tourism or apparently a useful landmark. The patrons, often an onslaught of ethically dubious Soi Cowboy visitors, can be hard to take, but the draught beer is cheap and the outdoor seating is chipper. With both an early evening and late-night happy hour, this pub will be sure to please, at least in a certain state of consciousness.

Like a ship, but different.

For a cute hole-in-the-wall pub with a not-so-cute location, The Ship Inn is the closest thing you will find to the real deal. Built to look like a Tudor house or a captain’s quarters (a strange mix of land and sea), the inside is quiet and subdued, a perfect spot for female travellers and “mature” drinkers. They also serve a “chip butty” – you know, just a mountain of French fries/chips in a buttery roll.

Prepare to get your liver pickled.

Despite The Pickled Liver’s humorous and depressingly accurate name, the pub is frequented by a younger generation of drinkers with livers (possibly) still intact. Expect pool and darts, outdoor seating by the glow of a topless bar, and fried calamari bar snacks. Don't expect cocktails. You're at a pub, not Narz!

The Robin Hood
Sukhumvit 33/1, Sukhumvit Road
Open daily 9:00-24:00
Happy hour: 16:00-19:00
T: (02) 662 3390
www.robinhoodbangkok.com
BTS: Phrom Pong

The Queen Victoria Pub
Sukhumvit Soi 23 (across from Soi Cowboy!)
Open daily 09:00-1:00 (11:30 for food)
Happy hours: 17:30-19:30 and 23:00-1:00
T: (02) 661 7417
www.queenvicbkk.com
BTS: Asoke

The Ship Inn
9/1 Soi 23, Sukhumvit
Open daily 11:00-24:00
BTS: Asoke

The Pickled Liver
Sukhumvit Soi 7/1
Open daily 16:00-4:00
Happy hours: 16:00-19:00
T: (02) 651 1114
www.thepickledliver.com
BTS: Nana

Tags: alcohol, beer, irish, pubs, the pickled liver, the queen victoria pub, the robin hood, the ship's inn

It's no secret that Bangkok can be overwhelming, and when the sun goes down a city that in daylight hours feels humid and bustling is suddenly also crammed with party goers and neon lights. Clubs and X-rated delights seem to be the touristic claims to fame, but if you are anything like me you are probably just looking for a quiet place to have a brewsky. Among the fluorescent signs and endless tuk tuks on Sukhumvit Road, Bar 23, WTF and Cheap Charlie's are charming watering holes for those of us in the mood for something a little more low-key.

Bar 23

An elusive little sign. Eyes akimbo.

Think indie-grunge meets your cool high school friend's basement. Dimly lit Bar 23 is quite easy to miss and from the outside always looks closed, but rest assured it's not. The vibe is extremely chilled with uber-friendly staff and walls decorated with local art and hodge-podge tchotchke collections. Sometimes it's packed, sometimes it's empty but Bar 23 is consistently reliable for a relaxed, friendly setting. Beers are 100 baht and cocktails a bit more. If you stop in on Thursday nights around 20:00 there will be a free swing dance class underway.

WTF

A classier affair.

For something a little more upscale but still with an indie edge, WTF is a local favourite with solid drinks, gallery spaces and yummo tapas. Vintage movie posters adorn the walls and a throw-back soundtrack gives it a classic feel. The cocktails are also top-notch with my personal favourite being a gin, lychee and lemongrass concoction called The Orchard. WTF has a popular schedule of weekly events, so check their calendar. Stop in for Thursday poetry nights which take place every six weeks. Cocktails here go for around 200 baht while tapas and snacks float around 150 per plate.

Cheap Charlie's

Beers are tucked amid the debris.

Backpacker haunt Cheap Charlie's is a classic Bangkok dive. Little more than a bar and a few conveniently placed stools, Cheap Charlie's has been serving drinks at its outside location right on the street for more than 30 years. The bar has become something of a visual curiosity with patrons bringing souvenirs to be fastened to the bar as part of the decorations; the final product looks something like a pile of old junk nailed onto a plywood shed. Always popular Cheap Charlie's is solidly reliable for a lively, chatty crew and truly cheap drinks --  beers are around 70 baht.

Bar 23: Located on Sukhumvit Soi 16 about 500 metres from the mouth of the soi on the right-hand side. Look for the sign that says 23. A 15-minute walk from Asok BTS station or the MRT station at Sukhumvit. Open Tues-Sat from about 19:00 to about 02:00.

WTF: Located on Sukhumvit Soi 51, a roughly five-minute walk from Thong Lor BTS station. Turn onto Soi 51 and WTF will be your second left on Soi 51. Open Tues-Sun 18:00-01:00. T: (02) 662 6246.

Cheap Charlie's: Located on Sukhumvit Soi 11 a short work from Nana BTS. The bar is on a small alley on the left-hand side about 100 metres from Sukhumvit Road. If you get to Suk 11 Hostel you have gone too far. Open daily from mid-afternoon until midnight.

Tags: 23, cheap charlies, cheap drinks, sukhumvit, WTF

If you remember part 1, we ended up on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya at ID Beer Bar on Khlong San Pier.

Time for some mild organisation, so get your A to Z. Walk back towards the pier, but turn right and go through the Khlong San market. Snacks, fried noodles, and grilled meats are available at the food stands on the right for those who need more solid sustenance. Take a cab from Khlong San Market to Wang Lang Market Pier (Tha Talad Wang Lang in Thai), a few clicks north along the Chao Phraya. Facing the entrance to the pier, turn right and walk along the small alley to the first right -- there on the corner is Zoom 4 Zoom 5, the strangest river bar along the Chao Phraya.

River views from Zoom 4 Zoom 5. Just the name makes this place great.

Up the stairs is the terrace, with a great view of the Grand Palace lit up in the velvet blackness of the riverside. Order food and drinks from the counter; you'll have to mix your own drinks and retrieve your own ice here (there's a station for ice, glasses and utensils near the counter) as it's strictly bar service. After a sufficient number of refreshments, it's time to cross back to Bangkok proper. Take the cross river ferry towards Thammasat University and walk straight up the street from Wang Lang Pier.

Turn left when you reach Sanam Luang (a big open oval field). Turn right. Continue around the oval, crossing the street at Ratchadamri Road, and continue away from the circle, towards the Democracy Monument, where you'll find Khao San Road off to your left. Success!

Proceed, crawling with caution; it's decision time upon reaching Khao San Road. Will this evening end in dancing? Will it end in bonding/weeping over buckets filled with cheap liquor? Will it end with some plates of spicy Thai food to clear heads and inflame tongues? The end of the crawl can only be a game time decision, but there are options.

For terrible music (which let's be honest, sometimes is the best), head to the Rambutri end of Khao San for dancing, revelry, and whisky bottle sets at Gullivers. Is it awful? Yes, but in the very best way. Do not expect to feel good about this decision in the morning. Brick Bar has ska performances and a fun Thai crowd, right on Khao San Road -- if you like ska, this is a great evening ender. Late show starts at midnight. Feeling like discussing the elemental beingness of travelling? Time for buckets. Take your pick of street side bars up and down the strip.

And finally, the best thing to do after a crawl is to sit down for feed. There is food all over Khao San Rd, but the best late night street food is at the intersection of Rambutri and Tani Roads (Rambutri is immediately north of Khao San, walk to the right and follow it around to where it meets Tani to find the street stalls). Sit down to plates of spicy southern curry, fried chicken or sticks of grilled meat. Eat, eat, and eat until you remember where you are staying. Don't forget the water kids -- it's hot out there. Chok dee (good luck)!

Zoom 4 Zoom 5: Soi Wang Lang, Wang Lang Market, Siriraj. T: (02) 226 1745. Open daily 17:00-0:00.
Brick Bar: 1/F, Buddy Lounge Bldg, 265 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 4702. Open daily 19:00-02:00.
Gulliver's Tavern: 2/2 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 1988. Open daily morning till late.

Tags: Chao Phraya, drinking, pubs, riverside

Nothing says prudent living like combining drinking and boats. There are several great places along Bangkok's Chao Phraya for a beer, some gap gleam (food that goes with drinking) and a river view. The five-star hotels clustered around Saphan Taksin offer some lovely (and pricey) watering holes, but a pub crawl requires being out there with the people. The Chao Phraya Express Ferry stops operating too soon to be a transport option up and down the river, but the cross river ferries operate until 23:00, so combined with some taxis, you've got an evening planned. If you follow the route outlined today and tomorrow, you'll end up on Khao San Road where you can continue drinking until the end of time.

Drinking and boats: together at last.

Start off at Balco on the Bangkok side of the river, which is located on the top floor of the River City Shopping Complex. It's a breezy, open balcony with spectacular views of the river traffic and the glittering buildings and wat complexes strung along the banks. Drinks are reasonable, and this is a mellow place that would be easy to get bogged down in. But carry on!

Nightime view from Balco of the Chao Phraya.

Take the cross river ferry from the River City pier to Khlong San (serious pub crawlers can grab a traveller from the Tops market on the ground floor of the mall). Turn left as you come across the gang plank and continue past the Hilton to Be My Guest, a laid back outdoor place where it's time for food, and plenty of it. While there are better restaurants in Bangkok, Be My Guest has gap gleam down pretty well -- don't miss the air-dried pork (moo daat diao). After several quaffs at Be My Guest, pay up and head out left back past the ferry pier to Id Beer Bar on the right. Sit at one of their slightly lower rent tables, and have a beer, and look at the river, and sigh about your remarkable good luck in being here.

Now this is a fine place to end your pub crawl if you want, but join us for more riverside drinks tomorrow in part II.

Balco: 5/ F, River City Shopping Complex, Charoen Krung Road. T: (08) 4928 6161. Open Tue-Sun 19:00 - 02:00.
Be My Guest Bar: 217 Charoennakron Plaza, Charoennakron Road. T: (02) 437 2653. Open daily 15:00-0:00.
Id Beer Bar: Khlong San Pier, Charoennakron Road. No telephone. Open daily 15:00-0:00.

Tags: pub crawls, pubs, riverside drinking

Enjoying Bangkok on a budget is very possible, and my favourite part? There's no need to sacrifice comfort or delicious meals. Compared to Southeast Asian cities like Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok is a bargain. However, if your point of reference is the rest of Thailand, or neighbouring countries, Bangkok starts to look a little steep. Taking a few minutes to plot out your day will help to save baht in the long run. Here's what you might like to consider.

Now this is the way to snack.

Eat local. A big way to pilfer away money is on pricey food. Avoid a gamble on a not-so-tasty mid-priced restaurant and go for some good old-fashioned street eats. Street food is everywhere and it's delicious -- don't be afraid of it! Look for a stall that seems popular and you will not be led astray. Local markets as well as food courts, which can be found in every mall, are other great places for affordable grub. And snacks? Opt for fresh fruit from street vendors.

Plan your lodging. I don't mean MONTHS in advance but plan at least far enough in the future that you're not wandering the sweaty streets looking for any place of refuge you can find. There are tons of great hostels for under 500 baht a night, and if you book in advance you can guarantee that at least that part of the equation is taken care of. The longer you wait to book, the more likely it is that the cheap places will be all filled up meaning you'll either end up somewhere overpriced or, worse, somewhere cage-like.

Avoid pricey drinks with seductive stirrers.

Pre game. Go back to your university roots and pre game. While alcohol at a bar might be a little pricey, booze from somewhere like a 7-eleven is extremely cheap. Save on the bar tab and grab a six-pack at the convenience store. You can't bring it into the bar but you can save money by drinking up before you get there. (Or: just don't drink!)

Not all bus rides will be this adorable.

Take public transport. The MRT and BTS are both very simple and worth using if they go near your destination. Unfortunately, these two modes of mass-transit don't go to all of Bangkok's must-see spots. If the MRT and BTS are out I'd recommend the bus. The BMTA has a great site where you can plug in your destination to find out which buses you need to take. Additionally, save on coming in from the airport by hitching a ride on the very affordable Airport Link.

Shop at markets. Whether it's Chatuchak or just the stall on the corner, shopping at markets is the way to go. Avoid pricey malls and look for something cheap and roadside. With some (polite) bargaining, prices may go even lower than the vendor's first figure.

You don't need to pay big bucks to see a big Buddha. Wat Indraviharn is a freebie.

Free sites. Many of Bangkok's sites charge admission, but an equal number of under-the-radar temples and sites let you take in the scene for free. Check out spots like Wat Rachabophit or Khlong Toei market for a taste of local life without the price tag.

Dress the part. At the end of the day Thailand is still a very Buddhist country and Bangkok, while modern, very much respects the Buddhist laws of decency. If you are going to a holy site, like Wat Phra Kaew or Wat Pho, then make sure to be well covered up. It will save you on the clothing rental deposit.

If you give your trip to Bangkok a bit of forethought and have a little patience it is possible to spend between 600 and 700 baht per day, or a little more than US$20, including hostels. If you want a little cushion for some mini-splurges then 1,000 baht a day, or US$30, should be a piece of cake. You won't be living large but you will be living just fine.

Tags: alcohol, budget, cheap, hostels, markets

Ever feel like not having a night in Southeast Asia? No really, I love it here and all, but every once in a while I want something that doesn't involve fish sauce or karaoke or being sweaty. Whether you have been travelling for awhile and need a break from beer and buckets, or are just curious about what lovely weirdness Bangkok can serve up, Iron Fairies is a trip to the other side. We're not really sure what side, but not this side.

I'll have two fairies. Blended.

First, it's located in Thong Lor, one of Bangkok's trendiest/douchbaggiest areas. No offence, Thong Lor friends; we know that it's really important that everyone know you have an iPhone, so we'll sit patiently while your car blocks the road. Second, the inside is basically an iron fabrication workshop. It's like underground speakeasy meets steam punk.

The Aussie owner Ashley Sutton opened for drinks in 2010. The name comes from a series of books Sutton wrote, and the eponymous iron fairies are perched all over the space. The inside is dark and cool and crumbling, with candles and bare (designer) bulbs flickering over the intricate industrial machines, creating a textured space that is definitely like none other. Drinks are strong (although anything other than your standard pours are a bit sweet) and they have good Australian and New Zealand wines by the glass as well as some unexpected specialty beers behind the counter.

This eccentric space attracts an appropriately varied crowd, but it's definitely the most fun later in the evening. Live jazz plays on weekend nights, but call ahead for the schedule! Their food menu is good bar basics, except for their burger which is par excellence -- piled high with bacon and cheese, and served nailed to a cutting board with a knife.

Iron Fairies
394 Thong Lor Road (Sukhumvit Soi 55)
T: (08) 4425 8080
Open 18:00 to 02:00, closed Sun
www.theironfairies.com

Tags: restaurants, thong lor

Taksura (ตักสุรา) is the definition of a baan-baan hangout: homey and comfortable, this bar feels like it's acceptable to sit around in while wearing your underwear (metaphorically, of course). It's a great place to sit outside in shorts and flip-flops, drink cold beers and listen to live music while Thai college students flirt, business guys drink to success and everyone snacks their way towards morning. The vibe is laid back and the theme definitely retro; depending on which location you are at, you might be sitting on 1960s lawn furniture, a salvaged car seat, or in a treehouse above the rest of the bar.

Taksura

Taksura is a gap glaem place -- a pub that serves food to go with drinks. True to Thai culinary form, the pub food available here far surpasses a basket of peanuts and some sad chips. Most dishes are 80 baht a plate, so be sure to order several -- the old ladies in the kitchen really do know what they are doing. Some of our favourites include the fried air-dried beef, fried pork laap, and vegetables fried with holy basil. Ordering is done Thai-style, meaning that all the dishes are meant to be shared and they come out of the kitchen when they happen to be done, not all at once.

While no one has ever heard of an appletini at Taksura, they will get you hammered in record time. A bottle of Sangsom (Thai rum) with limes, ice, and soda water mixers is the Thai way to drown your sorrows on a budget -- the entire set up costs 250 baht. Thai beers, better-quality liquors, and soft-drinks are also on offer at good prices.

Taksura has several locations around the city, most featuring live music on Fridays and Saturday nights. English menu available.

Taksura Phaya Thai
BTS: Phaya Thai. Exit on the east side of Phaya Thai Road (the road the train tracks run above), just a hundred metres or so south of the Phaya Thai Road and Sri Ayuttaya Road intersection. Sign only in Thai.

Taksura Ratchadamri
BTS: Ratchadamri. Exit on the west side of Phaya Thai and walk south (towards Siam Square). Past a 7-eleven, you will come to a small soi called Worarit, turn right and follow it back, Taksura is on your right side. Sign only in Thai.

Taksura RCA
MRT: Petchaburi, then a taxi. In the RCA Entertainment Complex proper, next to Triumph Bike Shop, past 808.