In the concrete maze of Bangkok, colourful flowers brighten up the greys around every corner, but it's not just because they look nice; flowers play a pivotal role in an ancient Thai tradition of making offerings to spirits and sacred representations as tangible expressions of kindness and generosity. Bangkok's biggest flower market, Pak Khlong Talaat, is at the centre of this tradition, and it's a fun place to soak up the colours.

Flowers are big business in Bangkok.

Located near Memorial Bridge along the Chao Phraya River and near Maha Rat Road and Chak Phet Road, a busy market has operated at this locale since at least the mid 1700s. Pak khlong talaat means "market at the mouth of the canal", and long ago it would have been a floating market.

In the 1800s it was largely a fish market before switching to produce and eventually becoming Bangkok's flower epicentre during the mid 1900s. A few fish vendors can still be seen today, and the north side of the market is one of the best places in town to buy fresh fruit and vegetables along with traditional Thai sweets. A handful of street food carts also offer some outstanding authentic Thai fare here -- coconut sticky rice with durian anyone?

Oh Thailand, how I love you.

If looking for something to hopefully put you back in the favour of your sweetheart, Pak Khlong Talaat has got you covered. A host of vendors specialise in classic bundles of roses and other bouquets in every possible colour. Most vendors are wholesalers, so it's possible to pick up two dozen gorgeous, freshly picked red roses for just 80 baht (but you don't have to tell your sweetie that).

While most of the flowers at Pak Khlong Talaat are grown in the provinces nearest Bangkok, rarer varieties like tulips are shipped from as far afield as the northern mountains of Chiang Rai, and you can even bargain for an awe-inspiring array of freshly cut orchids that will cost something like 1/50 of what they would in Europe or the United States.

It's Valentine's Day every day!

Pak Khlong Talaat is most certainly where everyday Bangkok florists go to stock their shelves, but by far the majority of flowers found here are destined to be woven into phuang malai garlands and used as offerings. Some will be offered to images of Buddha inside temples or on the shrines of private homes. Others will find their way to ancestor spirit shrines, spirit trees, or one of the countless dedications to Hindu gods like Brahma and Indra.

Many phuang malai -- perhaps even a majority -- will be dangled from rear view mirrors of the taxi cabs and cars that brave Bangkok's crowded streets. Far more than just a way to freshen the air, the garlands are placed on or near sacred Buddhist amulets and other spiritual items that adorn dashboards of cars and are believed to protect or bring good fortune to those who wholeheartedly respect them.

Phuang malai ready for temple, or your car.

All of these offerings are made both in recognition of perceived 'higher' spiritual entities or powers, and in the belief that giving phuang malai to a spirit or representation of the sacred will increase one's positive merit, hopefully leading to a fortunate rebirth in the next life and good luck in this one. Interwoven with a deep belief in karma, merit-making is also done by giving money and food to monks or anyone in need, or at a deeper level, simply by being kind. Yet, phuang malai is the most recognisable tool for signifying one's generosity in a tangible way, and many of Thailand's poorest people still find a way to offer them everyday.

Crafting phuang malai garlands is an age-old Thai art that entails patiently threading a needle through tiny jasmine buds and other small flowers repeatedly until something beautiful -- something worthy of being offered to a god -- has been created. Especially throughout daylight hours at Pak Khlong Talaat, skilled artisans create phuang malai for all to see, and an especially intricate garland can take several hours to create. If going in the evening you're sure to catch glimpses of some of the most ornate flower garlands in the country.

Craftspeople at work.

Pak Khlong Talad is open for business 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year (so you have no excuse not to go), though it's busiest in the evenings and predawn morning hours when shipments arrive (this can be a particularly photogenic time as well). The market is sandwiched between Chinatown to the south and Rattanakosin to the north, so it's smack in the middle of Bangkok's tourist trail. Despite this, it doesn't attract all that many tourists, and it most definitely retains a local air.

To get here, you can walk a little more than a kilometre south from the Grand Palace area on Maha Rat Road, or take the Chao Phraya Express boat to Memorial Bridge pier. If by boat, exit the pier, take a left on the nearest road, then a right at the 7-eleven. You'll start to see flower stalls along the foopath, and from there, just follow the smell of jasmine.

Tags: flowers, merit making, offerings, Pak Khlong Talaat, phuang malai, spirit houses

What do you get when you take a picturesque river setting and add friendly locals on row boats serving a plethora of fantastic, traditional Thai food? On a recent day trip to Bang Khla floating market east of Bangkok we found the definitive answer: a lot of very happy people. Like most of Thailand's modern floating markets this one exists more due to local tourist money than anything else, but there's no doubt that a good floating market helps keep Thais in touch with two vital elements of their ancient culture: food and boats.

Keeping it real.

In the old days, floating markets existed as a natural extension of a society connected by seas, rivers and canals. Situated in western Chachoengsao province along the Bang Pakong river, the modern Bang Khla floating market only developed in recent times, but markets have existed in one way or another at the site for hundreds of years.

Locally known as the "land of two water sources" due to this part of the river being a submerging point for fresh waters from the north and salty waters from the south, the Bang Khla area is home to a wealth of agriculture. So bountiful is the land that the legendary King Taksin led his battered army here to regroup immediately after it fell to Burmese forces at Ayutthaya in 1767. A memorial to the king still stands as tribute in the centre of Bang Khla town.

Unlike other markets there's plenty of space to sit and enjoy.

Due to it being relatively small, and requiring some effort to be reached from Bangkok, Bang Khla is well off the foreign tourist radar. Although it's popular with weekending Bangkokians, the market retains a definite country charm.

I'd like a boat load of som tam please.

While buying a couple fresh coconuts we chatted it up with a vendor who teaches English in a Bang Khla school on weekdays, contributing to the weekend market as more of a hobby than a means of livelihood. Whatever their reasons for spending weekends here, a great deal of pride was evident both in the demeanor of the local vendors and the fabulous edibles they produce.

Don't mess with the khanom ladies.

A healthy smattering of traditional Thai treats, snacks and meals can be sampled here, but Bang Khla is best known for its local fish and seafood. Fresh as can be and hot off a floating grill, whole river fish, jumbo shrimp, crab, squid and a range of shellfish fill the market's air with savoury scents.

So you can catch a fish and grill it right there on the boat -- brilliant!

We arrived to Bang Khla right after a rather freakish food indulgence at Khlong Suan old market, and our stomachs didn't have a lot of room leftover. We did manage, however, to devour a mix of fresh cockles and mussels with an array of chilli-lime-garlic based dipping sauces, chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad, and a fiery plate of som tam puu paara (green papaya salad with salty crab).

Our modest late afternoon spread.

For what constituted our fifth dessert of the day, we also couldn't resist the local Bang Khla specialty, thoowa pap -- a semi-sweet finger food made from locally produced peanut, jasmine flower, palm sugar, pandan leaf and shredded coconut along with rice flour for consistency and aan chan (Asian pigeon wing flower) for the bright, natural purple colour. The Bang Khla area is also known to produce some of the best mangoes in all of Thailand, so we made sure to stock up: six kilos of sour green and yellow sweet mangoes for just 120 baht.

Wonder if anyone would notice if I just went for a little fruit cruise?

Bang Khla is located some 80 kilometres east of Bangkok, so plan on a whole day if coming by bus or a half day if you have your own wheels. Buses run to Bang Khla at least twice an hour from both Morchit (northern) and Ekkamai (eastern) terminals in Bangkok, and either way the trip takes a little over an hour without much traffic. You could also catch a train to Chachoengsao at Bangkok's Hualumphong station and hop on to a bus to Bang Khla from there.

Once in Bang Khla you can take a songthaew, motorbike taxi or tuk tuk (tell them "talaart naam bang khla") to the market, which isn't far from the bus station. It's also possible to negotiate a taxi from Bangkok, which could take you round trip to the market and back for around 1,000 baht. Or, do what we did and combine Bang Khla with Khlong Suan as part of a full day market adventure. Bang Khla floating market runs on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 07:00 to 16:00.

Tags: Bang Khla, Chachoengsao, floating markets, markets

One of Thailand's most treasured temples, the Golden Mount of Wat Saket glistens above Bangkok's historic Banglamphu area as imposingly today as it did more than 200 years ago. Wat Saket's living history, peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views of Bangkok have made it one of my favourite major sites in the city, and when a friend comes to visit I always make sure to bring them here.

Tired of crowded and noisy Bangkok? Wat Saket provides relief.

First established during the Ayutthaya period in the 1700s, when Bangkok was nothing but a small trading post, Wat Saket is one of the city's most historically prominent temples. Although it often takes a back seat to Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Arun, and Wat Pho on the Bangkok tourist trail, Wat Saket actually predates any of these.

Even in this age of elevated trains and skyscrapers, Wat Saket makes itself known.

The temple is particularly cherished by Thais thanks to the powerful military commander, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, who would later become King Rama I (founder of the still reigning Chakri Dynasty and one of Thailand's most important historical figures), using the temple grounds as a place to rejuvenate between his constant military pursuits in the region during the late 1700s. The Thai words, sa and ket,  refer to "shower" and "hair", so Wat Saket got its name due to the king-to-be cleansing himself here, both physically and spiritually.

Don't worry, there's a coffee shop half way up.

The Golden Mount (phu khao thong) was built within the Wat Saket grounds by Rama I's grandson, King Rama III in the early 1800s. Rising some 58 metres above the ground, the steep human-made hill is crowned at its top by a large golden chedi that's believed to house relics of the Buddha. Waterfalls, flower gardens and prayer bells are found all along the stairways winding to the top, and from the first step upwards Wat Saket is nothing short of a soothing experience.

After passing through an enclosed shrine area, a steep stairwell emerges on to an open-air platform centred around the main chedi at the very top of the structure. Here, a small crowd of locals are usually found offering flowers, candles, incense, and prayers as a few tourists soak in the atmosphere. Even on the hottest of days a refreshing breeze gently chimes tiny gold leaf bells, each representing a donation from the lay community.

A surreal city scape from atop Wat Saket.

The Golden Mount was Bangkok's tallest structure until the 20th century, and although dwarfed today by modern skyscrapers its location among an ancient neighbourhood of two-storey buildings still allows for some impressive 360-degree views of the city.

Above the chaos of Bangkok.

Though the Golden Mount is the main draw for tourists, Wat Saket is a sprawling temple that also includes a cavernous ordination hall and many other smaller buildings, shrines, stupas and alleys. The temple has long been a centre of local and national Buddhist activity, and the temple is as alive today as it has ever been. On special occasions, such as New Year's Eve and Visaka, thousands of monks and members of the lay community take part in a candlelight procession that streams from the main hall to the top of the Golden Mount and continues late into the night.

If here around 17:00 you can check out a traditional chanting service in the main hall.

As with all functioning temples or sacred places of any religion, it's important to be respectful of local culture by acting and dressing appropriately while visiting Wat Saket. The temple is located in the heart of the Banglamphu historical district near the busy intersection of Thanon Ratchadamnoen and Thanon Lan Luang, a short walk from Democracy Monument to the west or the Giant Swing to the south. The Golden Mount is open to visitors everyday from 8:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.

Tags: Golden Mount, temples, viewpoints, Wat Saket

Historic sites are often the main draw for travellers, but exploring ancient neighbourhoods built around important historic landmarks can sometimes be even more fascinating than the sites themselves. While recently wandering the narrow side streets around Bangkok's Wat Saket, I stumbled on the gritty but intriguing temple supply neighbourhood of Baan Bat, which has been in action continuously since Wat Saket was first constructed in the 1700s.

Back alley Buddhas.

Some of Bangkok's oldest standing structures, the neighbourhood's Sino-Portugese shophouses, were built long before the Thai capital was moved down the river from Ayutthaya almost 250 years ago. Most of the houses have remained in use for centuries, and though some look like they could collapse at any moment they possess a distinctly weathered charm. The neighbourhood's narrow but central street -- Thanon Bamrung Muang -- was originally a canal that wasn't converted into a road until the second half of the 20th century.

The buildings may be old, but they don't lack character.

Old temple supply shops line Bamrung Muang's western end, offering everything from orange fabric to be sewn into robes for monks, to candles, incense, and Buddhist chanting books, to a dizzying array of statues depicting every conceivable posture of the Buddha.

Thailand: the world's largest producer of orange fabric.

In keeping with Thailand's intermingled spiritual cosmology, which contains not only elements of Theravada Buddhism but also Mahayana Buddhism, Hinduism, and an ancient and complex tradition of indigenous spirit worship, the shops along Bamrung Muang also offer images of the Buddha's historical disciples, famous Thai forest monks, Hindu deities, protective spirits, and Mahayana icons like Kuan Yin, the goddess of compassion.

Kuan Yin, providing reassurance to passing drivers as she awaits her new home.

Always approaching life from a superstitious viewpoint influenced by a deep rooted belief in karma, many locals place small flower offerings on some of the statues in an effort to appease the iconic personas they represent. Although the statues have yet to be officially consecrated by monks, they're still considered sacred to many and should be respected as such.

Pick me, pick me!

Walking this part of Bamrung Muang feels like being dropped in some ancient, strangely urban fantasy world inhabited by glistening, timeless deities (and the odd bus or tuk tuk), and the area is well worth a visit just to see the temple supply shops. The most famous aspect of the neighborhood, however, is the hand-made alms bowl community of Baan Bat.

Tucked down a small side street off Bamrung Muang, Baan Bat has been home to a small group of locals who have made their livings for centuries by producing hand-made alms bowls to be purchased by the faithful and donated to monks. The community continues to function today in the exact same location -- and in much the same way -- as it would have ten generations ago.

Baan Bat -- Keeping an ancient art alive.

Virtually every single monk in Thailand (and Burma, Laos, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka) uses alms bowls to collect donations of food from the lay community each morning, a custom in place since the Buddha is believed to have lived more than 2,500 years ago. Although they're typically factory produced in Thailand today, the Baan Bat community persists with an age-old method of crafting the bowls from slabs of raw steel using only their hands and a hammer.

For hundreds of years, the tapping of hammer on steel has been heard here.

Baan Bat's locals are a charming and friendly lot, always excited to share their craft with visitors. Polished, hand-made bowls -- some more than 50 years old -- are available for purchase, but visitors are left with a smile whether they buy a bowl or just watch the craftspeople at work.

A picture of pride.

To reach Baan Bat from Wat Saket, exit through the eastern gate and take a right on to Thanon Worachak. After a short distance turn right on to Bamrung Muang at the traffic light, then continue another 100 or so metres before turning left down the narrow and nondescript Soi Baan Bat. The Baan Bat alms bowl community is situated a short way down on the right. There's a sign that's not exactly clearly visible, but if you miss it chances are a local will appear yelling "monk's bowl!" If not, just follow the sound of steel being hammered. To reach the best stretch of temple supply shops head back to Bamrung Muang and go left, continuing west towards the Giant Swing.

Tags: alms bowls, Baan Bat, Buddhism, monks, Wat Saket

Chatuchak and Siam Square are great places to shop in Bangkok, but if looking for an authentic, non-touristy Thai market, sometimes it's necessary to stray off the beaten path. Khlong Suan old market is most certainly out of the way, to put it nicely, or in the middle of nowhere, to be blunt, but for a taste of traditional Thai culture -- and a food experience that could very well be a highlight of your trip -- it's well worth the extra effort.

What treats await beyond these walls?

Khlong Suan is a canal that was once the fastest way to journey from Bangkok to the more easterly Bang Pakong River and beyond. It was along this canal that the market sprung up more than 100 years ago, and it has long acted as a central meeting point for traders, travellers and farmers from all over central and eastern Thailand. Most of the boats have today been replaced by cars and buses but the market is still a middle ground for people from Bangkok, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Chon Buri provinces, attracting day-trippers from as far afield as Rayong to the south and Nakhon Nayok to the north.

Not a foreign tourist in sight.

The market was eventually named after the canal, which itself was named from the fertile grounds that surround it (khlong suan translates to "canal of gardens"). Though weathered and rather dilapidated in places, the market possesses a wise and noble air. A living and breathing memorial to traditional Thai culture, it doesn't look or feel all that different today than it would have when Thailand was still known as Siam.

The area surrounding the market can feel more like an old neighbourhood than a market.

While the old market's history adds some extra mystique, most visitors come for one reason only -- to eat. For food lovers who don't shy away from the exotic, this place is heaven with a liberal helping of fresh chillies and fish sauce.

Just as it would have looked a century ago.

So what did we try? The better question would be what did we not try? We started off with deep-fried Chinese-style veggie dumplings (khanom guiy chai), then on to some psychedelic looking preserved eggs with salted bean and fish (tort mun kai yeow mah).

Look in to the secret orb, I mean, egg.

Next it was deep-fried pork wontons with sweet chilli sauce (khanom tung tong), followed by coconuts stuffed with pureed sweet and spicy fish red curry and topped with a healthy splattering of rich coconut cream (haw muk mawt phlao). And these were just the appetisers.

Sweet, savoury, magnificent; or in Thai, simply aroi.

After a brief traditional Thai coffee break we dove back in with northern Thai-style curried soup with crispy noodles and chicken (khao soi).

Half-way through this khao soi I needed reminding that I was not in Chiang Mai.

And then, dessert: durian- and roselle-flavoured popsicles, coconut ice cream mixed with coconut meat and peanuts served in a coconut shell, and finally some spongy taro and strawberry flavoured southern Thai style cakes, still hot from a clearly visible on-site oven.

Roselle and coconut ice cream treats -- elegant and refreshing.

Always plotting our future food adventures, we also snatched up homemade egg noodles (ba mee), raw local spices like turmeric and galangal, dried shiitake mushrooms, particularly sweet mangoes that are difficult to find elsewhere, and freshly roasted peanuts (you know, for the road).

Ensuring the long trip back will be a pleasant one -- peanuts.

We were by this point feeling a little on the stuffed side, so we decided to go for a walk across the canal's signature, unusually high foot bridge. On the way, we checked out a small museum within the market that had, among other things, some dusty old three-quarter full bottles of scotch on display. Before making it outside we had a look at some of the non-food items available in the market: a traditional chewable stimulant made from betel nut and tobacco; homemade brooms and baskets; pet fish; and live turtles.

I'd run too little fella; best of luck to you.

Getting to Khlong Suan is a little tricky, but if you're up for an adventure (or for forking out some baht to a tour company), you will be rewarded. The cheapest way is to catch a Bangkok to Bang Khla bus from Ekkamai, but make sure to tell the driver you want to be dropped at "talart khlong suan." Buses leave regularly throughout the day and it's a little less than an hour (without much traffic) once you're on the bus.

To get back you can wait to flag down a returning bus along the main road near the market, or if getting antsy you can catch a songthaew bound for the bus stations of either Prachasoengchao or Bang Khla, either of which will have buses heading back to Bangkok.

"Come on, I dare you to make the trip."

Khlong Suan is about 25 km directly east of Suvarnabhumi airport along Lat Krabang Road, so another option is to take the airport link commuter train (which has a connection to the BTS sky train at Phaya Thai Station in Bangkok), and catch a taxi from somewhere in the airport vicinity. If wanting a return trip make sure to negotiate a price with the taxi driver before leaving the Suvarnabhumi area (around 500 baht seems fair to us; more if you want to linger for longer than 45 minutes to an hour).

Of course, you could also catch a taxi from anywhere in Bangkok, or if all of the above sounds too daunting there's no shortage of Bangkok-based tour companies that can arrange guided trips to the market in the 1,500 baht per person range (cheaper if you can get more than a few heads together).

Khlong Suan market is open every day from early morning until around 16:00.

There's another good market in Bang Khla, which we'll be reporting on soon, so stay tuned if you want to make it a full day market adventure.

Tags: Khlong Suan old market

Living in a city where skyscrapers sprout like dandelions and Starbucks open alongside wats, it is easy to forgo historical sites for more modern lures. But Bangkok’s absurd concurrence of the old with the new is the nub of its charm, and the ancient sites are as worthy of a visit as Chatuchak market or rooftop bars. Whenever I show a visitor around in Bangkok, the first place I take them to is Wat Pho (also known as Temple of the Reclining Buddha, or Wat Phra Chetuphon).

Expect to feel small.

Because Bangkok is an easy transit hub to elsewhere in Thailand, tourists often spend under 24 hours in the capital. If you can choose only one site to visit along the Chao Phraya River – and I assure you that less is more on hot day with a tight schedule – get the highest dose of promethean beauty at Wat Pho, famous for its giant reclining Buddha statue. You’ll feel a bit like Jack in the face of his ogre at the top of the beanstalk, but in this case, the giant is a 43 metre long gold-plated statue with mother-of-pearl encrusted feet. Not too scary, right?

100 baht for beauty.

Wat Pho has undergone dramatic renovations over the course of multiple centuries, rendering it almost unrecognisable from its original structure. The temple could break a record with its number of records: it claims to be the oldest wat in Bangkok, with the largest reclining Buddha, and more Buddha images than any other temple in Thailand.

Molting gold

The complex also includes one of the oldest Thai massage schools, where skilled massage therapists continue to offer massages to this day (250 baht per hour for a body or foot massage, 350 baht per hour for a herbal massage, expect a wait and close quarters with fellow customers). This is a slightly above average rate for Thai massages in Bangkok, and if you're baht-pinching, you can find cheaper joints without a queue in nearby Chinatown, or an upscale ambience with reasonable prices at Health Land.

The temple’s museum showcases instruments and charts used in the ancient practice of Thai massage, though the curated indoor spaces are lacklustre compared to the reclining Buddha and temple structure itself.

Welcome, he says.

Wat Pho is within walking distance of the Grand Palace and a one-minute boat ride across the river from Wat Arun. Allow at least 40 minutes to explore the complex in full, and avoid weekends if you want to be able to admire the fine details of the relief plaques without being shoved.

You can make a day of visiting all of the tourist sites, or breakaway after Wat Pho for cool-down drinks at Viva & Aviv or literary high tea at the Mandarin Oriental.  Sweating under the hot sun for the sake of culture is worthy of a reward, right?

Taken at Wat Pho. What you most certainly should not wear.

Wat Pho is situated to the south of the Grand Palace between Thanons Thai Wang, Sanamchai, Chetupon and Mahathat. It's about a five-minute walk south of Sanam Luang and the entrance is on Thanon Thai Wang. Beware of touts insisting that the temple is closed. The closest pier for the Chao Phraya River Express is Tha Tien (N8), buses 1, 3, 25, 44, 48, 91, 503, 508 and 512 all stop nearby.

Wear appropriate clothing for a place of worship, covering your legs and shoulders.

Just a touch of xenophobia?

Open daily 08:00-17:00, admission 100 baht, including water.

Tags: temples, Wat Pho

"Language is the road map of a culture. It tells you where its people come from and where they are going."
-- Rita Mae Brown

This is how you count up to 100.

Learning Thai is the best way to understand Thailand -- the very essence of Thai relationships is expressed in the way language is used. The influence of the central Thai dialect on regional languages, the pull of the countryside, the understanding of every relationship within the context of a village are all central to the Thai way of doing things. As a language, Thai has some interesting (read: maddening) structural challenges including a script wholly unrelated to roman characters, tones that change the meaning of words radically, and an array of special words used to count things, but as an entryway to a culture learning Thai is really satisfying.

Thais are thrilled when foreigners can speak even a small amount of Thai and if you can read and write the script everyone will act like you just invented electricity or the rice noodle. Some of that is flattery, some of it is fawning, but most of it is genuine appreciation that you took the time to learn some Thai -- even among long-term expats speaking Thai is rare. And if you travel to some of the more out of the way places in Thailand, the language really will be practically useful.

The schools below are ones that Travelfish.org has experience with, but there are many others that are reviewed at Women Learning Thai, an excellent Thai language learning resource. Also check out @ajarnpasa on Twitter for fun short lessons aimed at improving intermediate Thai, but with cultural relevance that all learners of Thai can appreciate.

Most of these school have fixed-term lessons (three-four hours per day, five days a week for a month, for example), but all can arrange private lessons or customised classes which can be perfect for people who want to study for a week or so in Bangkok before exploring Thailand.

Unity Thai Language
Unity Thai's month-long intensive courses are a great deal, costing around 6,500 baht for 15 hours a week for four weeks. Their teachers are professional and have good attitudes, as well as clear tone and grammar correction. They can arrange private lessons for short-time students.
18F Times Square Building
246 Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 653 1538
info@utl-school.com

Jentana Thai
Jentana is more expensive than some other options, however their private classes catering to people who wish to study intensively for a short time come highly recommended.
5/8 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 260 6138
jentana@loxinfo.co.th

Pro Language
Pro Language is a professional school with two branches in Bangkok -- classes represent good value.
Siam Square Location: Siam Kit Building 6F, Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd
T: (02) 251 4631
siam@prolanguage.co.th
Asoke Location: 10 – 01A 10F Times Square Building, 246 Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 250 0072
prolanguage@prolanguage.co.th

Tags: language, schools, Thai language

This photo is actually from a few years ago during Chinese New Year celebrations along Yaowarat Road in the heart of Bangkok's Chinatown. The scene was an absolute heaving melee of people, all wearing red and having fun to a background of throbbing drums and clanging cymbals. The woman below was enjoying a final pause before a performance on stilts in the midst of the crowd.

The calm before the storm.

Movie theatres in Bangkok run the gamut from shining, multiple screen palaces of movie consumption to ageing-yet-still-grand examples of mid-sixties architecture. Dinner and a movie are among the most affordable of Bangkok entertainment, especially with all of the great street food available in the City of Angels.

Entrance to one of Bangkok's modern cineplexes.

So where to eat and what to see? Well, the movie choice is all yours, but here are Travelfish.org's recommendations for a nosh and a film. Check movie times using the local English-language newspapers, the Bangkok Post or The Nation, or everyone's old friend Google.

Gleaming modernity
Can you be sad when everything is shiny and new? Sounds like the plot to an arthouse hit. Come and try at Terminal 21, Bangkok's newest/flashiest mall. The food on Level 5 at Terminal 21 is actually pretty great -- don't miss the roasted duck served on noodles for 45 baht -- and the movie screens show the latest Hollywood offerings. Tickets 120 baht, food 40-115 baht a plate.

Mad Men-style, tropical execution
We have written about the Lido and Scala theatres in Bangkok's Siam Square before and they are highly recommended for their alternative offerings. Tickets start at 100 baht. The food choices in the area are plentiful and fantastic, as well; pre-film snacking has a great home at Food Plus Hawker Centre, located between Siam Sq Soi 5 and Siam Sq Soi 6 (it's easier to find from Soi 6 as there is no sign in Soi 5). Peruse the many different kinds of food at the stalls, order and they'll bring you your food when ready. Dishes from around 30-50 baht, drinks 10-15 baht. Som Tam Neua (Siam Sq Soi 4) is a cool looking place that pumps out good Isaan food at reasonable prices (35-90 baht a plate), and serves beer as well if you are in the mood.

Arthouse, followed by Dancehouse
HouseRCA screens arthouse and indie films exclusively, and is conveniently located for some post-movie dance action. Tickets 120 baht. Start your evening with some food at the excellent Taksura (RCA Road, next to the Triumph motorcycle shop), head over to HouseRCA to watch a thought-provoking film, and then wander back down RCA Road to get your groove on at one of the clubs that starts bumping right about the time the late show gets out. It's all a short taxi or motorcycle taxi ride from Petchburi station on the MRT.

Terminal 21, NW corner of Sukhumvit Rd and Asoke Rd. (T): 02 651 2888
Scala Theatre, Soi 1, Rama I Rd (Siam Square), T: (02) 251 2861.
Lido Theatre, Soi 2, Rama I Rd (Siam Square), T: (02) 252 6498.
HouseRCA, 31/8 RCA Rd, Huai Kwang, (T): 02 641 5177

Tags: cinema, Food Plus Hawker Centre, HouseRCA, movies, Siam Square, Som Tam Neua, Taksura, terminal 21, The Lido, The Scala

While Bangkok offers luxurious movie going options, it also offers old school movie houses as well. Owned by the Ajax Group, The Lido and The Scala used to have a partner in crime called The Siam, but it was burnt down in the 2010 Red Shirt unrest. It was a loss, to be honest, as these three theatres have resisted the relentless wrecking balls of retail development and condo construction, bringing a little taste of what Bangkok was like in the late 1960s.

The Future of Yesterday, Today.

The Scala and the Lido are different styles of theatre, but both hail from the same late 1960s era. The Scala is enormous, featuring a main floor and a balcony. If you're young enough to not remember when there were two Germanys, then you've probably never watched a movie in a cinema that can seat a thousand -- if you go to a blockbuster screening, it's riotous. The modern "world of tomorrow" architecture of the Scala is great; it's well preserved and it suits the space perfectly. The Lido was damaged in a fire and when reconstructed its main theatre was split into three. The theatres are a bit smaller and less grand than the Scala, but it allows them to screen more choices. While the Scala screens quite a few blockbusters, both theatres show an eclectic mix of art house, documentary, and foreign (meaning non-Hollywood and non-Thai) films.

Check out both theatres' schedules as well as upcoming premiers here. Both are located in the Siam Square area, easily accessible by BTS as well as a short walk from the Saen Saeb Khlong Express Ferry.

Scala Theatre: Soi 1, Rama I Rd (Siam Square), T: (02) 251 2861.
Lido Theatre: Soi 2, Rama I Rd (Siam Square), T: (02) 252 6498.

Tags: cinemas, films, movies, red shirts, The Lido, The Scala