In the concrete maze of Bangkok, colourful flowers brighten up the greys around every corner, but it's not just because they look nice; flowers play a pivotal role in an ancient Thai tradition of making offerings to spirits and sacred representations as tangible expressions of kindness and generosity. Bangkok's biggest flower market, Pak Khlong Talaat, is at the centre of this tradition, and it's a fun place to soak up the colours.

Flowers are big business in Bangkok.

Located near Memorial Bridge along the Chao Phraya River and near Maha Rat Road and Chak Phet Road, a busy market has operated at this locale since at least the mid 1700s. Pak khlong talaat means "market at the mouth of the canal", and long ago it would have been a floating market.

In the 1800s it was largely a fish market before switching to produce and eventually becoming Bangkok's flower epicentre during the mid 1900s. A few fish vendors can still be seen today, and the north side of the market is one of the best places in town to buy fresh fruit and vegetables along with traditional Thai sweets. A handful of street food carts also offer some outstanding authentic Thai fare here -- coconut sticky rice with durian anyone?

Oh Thailand, how I love you.

If looking for something to hopefully put you back in the favour of your sweetheart, Pak Khlong Talaat has got you covered. A host of vendors specialise in classic bundles of roses and other bouquets in every possible colour. Most vendors are wholesalers, so it's possible to pick up two dozen gorgeous, freshly picked red roses for just 80 baht (but you don't have to tell your sweetie that).

While most of the flowers at Pak Khlong Talaat are grown in the provinces nearest Bangkok, rarer varieties like tulips are shipped from as far afield as the northern mountains of Chiang Rai, and you can even bargain for an awe-inspiring array of freshly cut orchids that will cost something like 1/50 of what they would in Europe or the United States.

It's Valentine's Day every day!

Pak Khlong Talaat is most certainly where everyday Bangkok florists go to stock their shelves, but by far the majority of flowers found here are destined to be woven into phuang malai garlands and used as offerings. Some will be offered to images of Buddha inside temples or on the shrines of private homes. Others will find their way to ancestor spirit shrines, spirit trees, or one of the countless dedications to Hindu gods like Brahma and Indra.

Many phuang malai -- perhaps even a majority -- will be dangled from rear view mirrors of the taxi cabs and cars that brave Bangkok's crowded streets. Far more than just a way to freshen the air, the garlands are placed on or near sacred Buddhist amulets and other spiritual items that adorn dashboards of cars and are believed to protect or bring good fortune to those who wholeheartedly respect them.

Phuang malai ready for temple, or your car.

All of these offerings are made both in recognition of perceived 'higher' spiritual entities or powers, and in the belief that giving phuang malai to a spirit or representation of the sacred will increase one's positive merit, hopefully leading to a fortunate rebirth in the next life and good luck in this one. Interwoven with a deep belief in karma, merit-making is also done by giving money and food to monks or anyone in need, or at a deeper level, simply by being kind. Yet, phuang malai is the most recognisable tool for signifying one's generosity in a tangible way, and many of Thailand's poorest people still find a way to offer them everyday.

Crafting phuang malai garlands is an age-old Thai art that entails patiently threading a needle through tiny jasmine buds and other small flowers repeatedly until something beautiful -- something worthy of being offered to a god -- has been created. Especially throughout daylight hours at Pak Khlong Talaat, skilled artisans create phuang malai for all to see, and an especially intricate garland can take several hours to create. If going in the evening you're sure to catch glimpses of some of the most ornate flower garlands in the country.

Craftspeople at work.

Pak Khlong Talad is open for business 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year (so you have no excuse not to go), though it's busiest in the evenings and predawn morning hours when shipments arrive (this can be a particularly photogenic time as well). The market is sandwiched between Chinatown to the south and Rattanakosin to the north, so it's smack in the middle of Bangkok's tourist trail. Despite this, it doesn't attract all that many tourists, and it most definitely retains a local air.

To get here, you can walk a little more than a kilometre south from the Grand Palace area on Maha Rat Road, or take the Chao Phraya Express boat to Memorial Bridge pier. If by boat, exit the pier, take a left on the nearest road, then a right at the 7-eleven. You'll start to see flower stalls along the foopath, and from there, just follow the smell of jasmine.

Tags: flowers, merit making, offerings, Pak Khlong Talaat, phuang malai, spirit houses

What do you get when you take a picturesque river setting and add friendly locals on row boats serving a plethora of fantastic, traditional Thai food? On a recent day trip to Bang Khla floating market east of Bangkok we found the definitive answer: a lot of very happy people. Like most of Thailand's modern floating markets this one exists more due to local tourist money than anything else, but there's no doubt that a good floating market helps keep Thais in touch with two vital elements of their ancient culture: food and boats.

Keeping it real.

In the old days, floating markets existed as a natural extension of a society connected by seas, rivers and canals. Situated in western Chachoengsao province along the Bang Pakong river, the modern Bang Khla floating market only developed in recent times, but markets have existed in one way or another at the site for hundreds of years.

Locally known as the "land of two water sources" due to this part of the river being a submerging point for fresh waters from the north and salty waters from the south, the Bang Khla area is home to a wealth of agriculture. So bountiful is the land that the legendary King Taksin led his battered army here to regroup immediately after it fell to Burmese forces at Ayutthaya in 1767. A memorial to the king still stands as tribute in the centre of Bang Khla town.

Unlike other markets there's plenty of space to sit and enjoy.

Due to it being relatively small, and requiring some effort to be reached from Bangkok, Bang Khla is well off the foreign tourist radar. Although it's popular with weekending Bangkokians, the market retains a definite country charm.

I'd like a boat load of som tam please.

While buying a couple fresh coconuts we chatted it up with a vendor who teaches English in a Bang Khla school on weekdays, contributing to the weekend market as more of a hobby than a means of livelihood. Whatever their reasons for spending weekends here, a great deal of pride was evident both in the demeanor of the local vendors and the fabulous edibles they produce.

Don't mess with the khanom ladies.

A healthy smattering of traditional Thai treats, snacks and meals can be sampled here, but Bang Khla is best known for its local fish and seafood. Fresh as can be and hot off a floating grill, whole river fish, jumbo shrimp, crab, squid and a range of shellfish fill the market's air with savoury scents.

So you can catch a fish and grill it right there on the boat -- brilliant!

We arrived to Bang Khla right after a rather freakish food indulgence at Khlong Suan old market, and our stomachs didn't have a lot of room leftover. We did manage, however, to devour a mix of fresh cockles and mussels with an array of chilli-lime-garlic based dipping sauces, chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad, and a fiery plate of som tam puu paara (green papaya salad with salty crab).

Our modest late afternoon spread.

For what constituted our fifth dessert of the day, we also couldn't resist the local Bang Khla specialty, thoowa pap -- a semi-sweet finger food made from locally produced peanut, jasmine flower, palm sugar, pandan leaf and shredded coconut along with rice flour for consistency and aan chan (Asian pigeon wing flower) for the bright, natural purple colour. The Bang Khla area is also known to produce some of the best mangoes in all of Thailand, so we made sure to stock up: six kilos of sour green and yellow sweet mangoes for just 120 baht.

Wonder if anyone would notice if I just went for a little fruit cruise?

Bang Khla is located some 80 kilometres east of Bangkok, so plan on a whole day if coming by bus or a half day if you have your own wheels. Buses run to Bang Khla at least twice an hour from both Morchit (northern) and Ekkamai (eastern) terminals in Bangkok, and either way the trip takes a little over an hour without much traffic. You could also catch a train to Chachoengsao at Bangkok's Hualumphong station and hop on to a bus to Bang Khla from there.

Once in Bang Khla you can take a songthaew, motorbike taxi or tuk tuk (tell them "talaart naam bang khla") to the market, which isn't far from the bus station. It's also possible to negotiate a taxi from Bangkok, which could take you round trip to the market and back for around 1,000 baht. Or, do what we did and combine Bang Khla with Khlong Suan as part of a full day market adventure. Bang Khla floating market runs on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 07:00 to 16:00.

Tags: Bang Khla, Chachoengsao, floating markets, markets

Historic sites are often the main draw for travellers, but exploring ancient neighbourhoods built around important historic landmarks can sometimes be even more fascinating than the sites themselves. While recently wandering the narrow side streets around Bangkok's Wat Saket, I stumbled on the gritty but intriguing temple supply neighbourhood of Baan Bat, which has been in action continuously since Wat Saket was first constructed in the 1700s.

Back alley Buddhas.

Some of Bangkok's oldest standing structures, the neighbourhood's Sino-Portugese shophouses, were built long before the Thai capital was moved down the river from Ayutthaya almost 250 years ago. Most of the houses have remained in use for centuries, and though some look like they could collapse at any moment they possess a distinctly weathered charm. The neighbourhood's narrow but central street -- Thanon Bamrung Muang -- was originally a canal that wasn't converted into a road until the second half of the 20th century.

The buildings may be old, but they don't lack character.

Old temple supply shops line Bamrung Muang's western end, offering everything from orange fabric to be sewn into robes for monks, to candles, incense, and Buddhist chanting books, to a dizzying array of statues depicting every conceivable posture of the Buddha.

Thailand: the world's largest producer of orange fabric.

In keeping with Thailand's intermingled spiritual cosmology, which contains not only elements of Theravada Buddhism but also Mahayana Buddhism, Hinduism, and an ancient and complex tradition of indigenous spirit worship, the shops along Bamrung Muang also offer images of the Buddha's historical disciples, famous Thai forest monks, Hindu deities, protective spirits, and Mahayana icons like Kuan Yin, the goddess of compassion.

Kuan Yin, providing reassurance to passing drivers as she awaits her new home.

Always approaching life from a superstitious viewpoint influenced by a deep rooted belief in karma, many locals place small flower offerings on some of the statues in an effort to appease the iconic personas they represent. Although the statues have yet to be officially consecrated by monks, they're still considered sacred to many and should be respected as such.

Pick me, pick me!

Walking this part of Bamrung Muang feels like being dropped in some ancient, strangely urban fantasy world inhabited by glistening, timeless deities (and the odd bus or tuk tuk), and the area is well worth a visit just to see the temple supply shops. The most famous aspect of the neighborhood, however, is the hand-made alms bowl community of Baan Bat.

Tucked down a small side street off Bamrung Muang, Baan Bat has been home to a small group of locals who have made their livings for centuries by producing hand-made alms bowls to be purchased by the faithful and donated to monks. The community continues to function today in the exact same location -- and in much the same way -- as it would have ten generations ago.

Baan Bat -- Keeping an ancient art alive.

Virtually every single monk in Thailand (and Burma, Laos, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka) uses alms bowls to collect donations of food from the lay community each morning, a custom in place since the Buddha is believed to have lived more than 2,500 years ago. Although they're typically factory produced in Thailand today, the Baan Bat community persists with an age-old method of crafting the bowls from slabs of raw steel using only their hands and a hammer.

For hundreds of years, the tapping of hammer on steel has been heard here.

Baan Bat's locals are a charming and friendly lot, always excited to share their craft with visitors. Polished, hand-made bowls -- some more than 50 years old -- are available for purchase, but visitors are left with a smile whether they buy a bowl or just watch the craftspeople at work.

A picture of pride.

To reach Baan Bat from Wat Saket, exit through the eastern gate and take a right on to Thanon Worachak. After a short distance turn right on to Bamrung Muang at the traffic light, then continue another 100 or so metres before turning left down the narrow and nondescript Soi Baan Bat. The Baan Bat alms bowl community is situated a short way down on the right. There's a sign that's not exactly clearly visible, but if you miss it chances are a local will appear yelling "monk's bowl!" If not, just follow the sound of steel being hammered. To reach the best stretch of temple supply shops head back to Bamrung Muang and go left, continuing west towards the Giant Swing.

Tags: alms bowls, Baan Bat, Buddhism, monks, Wat Saket

For an easy day trip out of the city with a dose of culture, head to Ko Kret; just don’t expect the white sandy beaches of Ko Phi Phi or Ko Samui. A rustic island on the Chao Praya River, Ko Kret is home to a community of Mon people and is famed for its handcrafted pottery. Like many unique cultural sites turned tourist destinations, Ko Kret can feel somewhat like a mini-Chatuchak market, existing only to satisfy the consumer urges of those passing through. But it still has charm, and is easily accessible from the centre of Bangkok. Here's how to get to Ko Kret from central Bangkok.

Where all taxis and buses converge: Victory Monument.

The easiest and priciest way to make the trip is on a river cruise -- these run on Sundays. The Chao Phraya Express Boat offers an informative cruise that stops in Ko Kret and multiple historic wats priced at 550 baht per person. The Thai River Cruise also offers tour packages, which include visits to other sites such as the Grand Palace along the way (for approximately 2,300 baht per person). Many other boat companies have similar itineraries -- the men aggresively touting at Central Pier near the Saphan Taksin BTS will be more than happy to give you more information. Arrive no later than 08:30 to choose your company and reserve a spot.

The quickest way to get to Ko Kret is to take the BTS to Victory Monument, then get off and walk towards the buses on the west side of the monument. Take the expressway bus 166, which will take you approximately 30-40 minutes (19 baht). Ask the bus driver to notify you when you reach Ko Kret. When you get off, walk for two minutes towards the pier, located behind Wat Sanam Neua. From there, take an eye-blink of a boat ride across the river to Ko Kret (2 baht).

If you are not in a rush and need a little nature for your retinas, the long, scenic route is to take the Chao Praya Express boat (just jump on the boat and pay once you are on -- do not opt for a tourist ticket) to the very end of the line, Nonthaburi. From there, you can take the 32, 51 or 104 bus to the pier (19 baht), where you can catch the small boat to cross the river to Ko Kret (2 baht). If you don't speak Thai, come with some key phrases written down in case you lose your way. Otherwise, you can negotiate a longtail boat from Nonthaburi itself, though be prepared to put your bargaining face on. Allow a good three hours to get there, and consider the second option for the way back!

For a pottery excursion closer to home, visit the alms bowls at Bangkok's Baan Baat, or for a full-day of pottery ask the river cruise organisers at Saphan Taksin to take you to both Baan Baat and Ko Kret.

Tags: Ko Kret

Bangkok is for gluttons. There are practically as many food stalls as people. And with the reliable public transportation and cheap motorbikes, you can keep your heart beating at a leisurely low rate. If you need a day to get yourself back on a healthy track, here are some suggestions.

A trot, a jog, or a run through a Bangkok park.

06:00: Though Bangkok may feel like a city that never sleeps, millions are tucked away in their beds by nightfall and arise in the early hours of the morning.

Head to Queen Sirikit Park (part of the greater Chatuchak Park, open 04:30-21:00) and take a run or a stroll along a stretch of green. Also consider Lumpini Park near the Sala Deang BTS, or Benjasiri Park (Queen’s Park) near the Phrom Pong BTS. If it’s smack in the middle of hot season, from March to May, wake up even earlier to beat the heat. (Avid runners, be aware that the Laguna Phuket International Marathon is coming up on June 10 this year, while Nong Khai hosts a charity marathon on June 3 and Pattaya has a marathon in July.)

09:00: If you’re feeling ambitious, jog down Phahonyotin Road to Banana Family Park in Ari -- it's around three kilometres from Chatuchak Park, or you can take the BTS from Mo Chit to Ari, and then walk. At this healthy haven, munch on the vegetarian spring rolls, fresh sauteed vegetables, or fruit som tam and grab a bottle of diluted wheatgrass juice.

If you’re coming from another side of town, Ethos in Khao San Road, open at 9:00, or Rasayana Retreat: Living Food Café in Phrom Pong, open at 10:00, also make great healthy morning pick-me-ups.

12:00: Get a two-hour Thai full body massage. Throw in a facial or Thai herbal compress if you feel like you deserve an extra reward after your run. For a reliable massage in a hi-so ambiance, try Health Land Spa, with seven locations in Bangkok alone, including Asok and Sathorn. Book ahead of time to avoid a wait.

15:00: All that hard work in the spa means you'll have worked up an appetite. Go to a Gourmet Market or Villa Market, which are often connected to malls, and check out their salad bar or produce section, where they will have pre-packaged salads. The bar I frequent the most in Bangkok is the salad bar at the Gourmet Market in the ground level of Siam Paragon. If you are strategic with the weight of your vegetables, you won’t spend more than 100 baht, and you can get the dressing on the side. Just a warning: Gourmet Market is filled with delicious sweet goodies that are unavoidable to walk by on your way to the salad bar. Be strong! Take a walk around the mall to help your digestion.

17:00: As evening falls, it’s time for another workout. Gyms like California WOW Xperience in Asok, True Fitness and Fitness First require memberships to attend classes, but you can bargain with them for a one-day or three-day trial membership, sometimes even for free. Hinting that you are considering living in Bangkok long-term will help the free part. For a drop-in yoga class with no strings attached, Yoga Elements  in Chit Lom and Absolute Yoga, with multiple locations, both hold great classes. The hot yoga at Absolute Yoga is a guaranteed workout, and Yoga Elements is better to get your zen on.

Vegetarian food porn with accompanying ticket.

19:00: Treat yourself to a delicious vegetarian dinner at the cafeteria in Tops Supermarket, attached to Robinson Department Store in Asok. Open from 09:00-21:00 and adjacent to the bakery of Tops, you'll see a sign that says “Walee Vegetarian Food”. Opt for the brown rice with two sides for 40 baht. Pay first at the ticket counter, where you will receive tickets in five and 20 baht denominations. When you are done, return to the counter to refund any tickets you have not used.

You have just completed a healthy day in Bangkok. Reward yourself with some fresh-squeezed beetroot, apple, carrot and celery juice for 60 baht at Tops.

Tags: massage, parks, vegetarian food, yoga

Feeling bored in Bangkok? Have you dried up like a coconut husk from a lack of excitement? It's time for a day of random travel, Bangkok style. Random travel is simply that: motion for the sake of moving. The details of a culture are definitely written in the way that daily life is lived -- Thailand is at its most interesting when it doesn't know it's being watched. The Grand Palace and famous wats are great, but wandering away from it all can be a rewarding view into the way that Thais really live -- monks on alms rounds, groups of school children on their way home, motorcycle cab drivers napping the hot afternoon away.

Open windows, cold beer, palm trees. WIN.

A good way to spend an afternoon is to ride one of the commuter trains out into the suburbs and take a look around. Train timetables can be found online at the State Railway of Thailand's website and once you arrive it's time to explore the Thai way: by eating and walking around.

Our normal itinerary is a snack, then search for a temple or wat (or whatever -- this is how we once found a random museum of looms used to weave in Hua Thake), then some green space for a bit of a rest (and an iced coffee), then more food, and then back on the train home.

Most commuter trains run quite often so it's easy to manage an afternoon without risking being stuck (although there's nearly always a way back) -- just ask the ticket agent to book you a return when you leave to ensure there is an inbound train.

On the train to Mahachai.

Bangkok is big and spread out, but grab a window seat and watch the suburbs give way to rice paddy, coconut palms, and water buffalo in the course of an hour -- travel in the most freeing sense of the word!

Tags: Grand Palace, trains

Tis the season to be jolly, or if you are in Thailand, hang out by the beaches, trek alongside elephants, or stand under a waterfall. Thailand, a Buddhist country, may not have a traditional white Christmas, but there are plenty of easy-to-get-to getaways just outside of Bangkok for fun in the sand. If you’re looking for a Christmas chill, or at least temperatures below scorching, one non-beach option is Kanchanaburi, two to three hours (139 km) west of Bangkok along the River Kwai.

Believe it or not, it still runs trains daily.

The main tourist attraction is the Death Railway Bridge , a creaky iron structure built by prisoners of war and later a prime target of Allied bombing raids. You can wax historic at any number of the museums dedicated to showcasing Kanchanaburi’s involvement in WWII, including the WII Museum, Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery, the JEATH War Museum, Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery, and the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre -- you can see a full list of things to do here.

You'll also no doubt hear about the Tiger Temple, a strange place for tourists to take pictures with sedated looking tigers. We don't recommend a visit; if you’re considering visiting, please read this first.

But the real gem of Kanchanaburi is the sleepy River Kwai itself, which flows sleepily through the town -- there are plenty of riverside places to stay.

Sunset from Keeree Tara (aka the best meal you will eat in Kanchanaburi).

The food alone is enough of a reason to come to Kanchanaburi. You can eat river prawns and pineapple fried rice inside a carved coconut at Keree Tara Restaurant, a modern eatery with oh-so-fresh tastes and delectable views. At night, the river sparkles, and you can take a river (and karaoke!) cruise to enjoy all of its splendour. Finish off the day strong by hitting up the Night Bazaar by the bus station and then bar-hopping along Maenam Kwai Road.

The riverside city is a bit too big to get around on your feet; the best and most enjoyable way to see the sights while still catching the river breeze is by renting a bicycle.

To fully appreciate what Kanchanaburi and its surrounds has to offer, take a day trip to Erawan National Park or Sai Yok Park, both with a 200 baht entry fee for tourists. You can visit waterfalls, kayak through limestone caves with hidden Buddhist temples, take a bamboo raft along the river, and feed elephants. Now, how’s that for a merry Christmas or a happy Hannukah?

Nothing more romantic than a train ride, eh?

To get to Kanchanaburi, buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes to Kanchanaburi’s bus station for 100 baht. Or catch a minibus at Victory Monument/Khao San Road, which will leave as soon as it fills up. Prices may vary depending on the company, but expect to pay 100 to 200 baht. For a slow and scenic journey, take the Bangkok Noi-Nam Tok train line, which leaves from Bangkok Noi Station in Thonburi and takes around three hours (100 baht). You can find a more detailed schedule here.

Keeree Tara Restaurant
43/1, Tha Makham
T: (034) 624 093
www.keereetara.com
Open 11:00-24:00

Tags: bangkok to kanchanaburi, Erawan National Park, kanchanaburi, keree tara, national parks, River Kwai, tiger temple, waterfalls

Music. Tents. Omelettes. Massages. If you want a true “Thai” experience, head to Thailand’s biggest music festival, the third annual Big Mountain Music Festival (BMMF3) on December 10-11, 2011 in Bonanza Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima. Most tourists travelling through Thailand don’t get to experience Thai music, besides the occasional Thai hit blasting on your taxi’s radio, so this festival is a perfect way to fully immerse yourself in young Thai culture.

The infamous Mr Steak.

Khao Yai, in the Isaan region, is the oldest and most frequented national park in Thailand, and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is rich with vegetation and wildlife, and a perfect area to go hiking or swimming in the waterfalls before or after the festival.

With 65,000 attendees and more than 400 artists last year, BMMF3 is coming back for its third year, this time boasting a new line-up and look. The event will feature popular Thai bands with major record labels like Crescendo and Lipta, old-time classics like Boy Peacemaker, and some lesser-known budding artists.

Then there’s the brand new 'Club Cake', a space for dancing and loud beats. The name is an ode to the many newlyweds who met and fell in love at the first two BMMFs. ‘Mun-Nai (Mak)’, which translates to 'Fun-Inside (Very)', should be very fun inside, with an 'islander' vibe and chilled out tunes. 'District 9's' description is good enough to quote verbatim: “led by aliens from the mothership and its spacecrafts, with numbers of rockers tagging along to fill up the stage”. Where aliens come in, I do not know, but the design team, Supermachine Studio, has been working months upon months on this otherworldly stage.

‘Cow Stage’, an ode to the event’s mascot, Mr Steak (a cow), will host a montage of genres, from pop to Ska. The 'Ferris Wheel Stage', formally known as the 'Main Stage', is an architectural feat, with main indie headliners scheduled like Slot Machine and Palmy (if Vanessa Carlton and Shakira had a love child, circa 2002). The ‘A-Ko-Jorn (Wicked) Pub’ is a nightclub under a carnival tent, with a self-purported dark and ominous ambiance.

Most of the music, of course, will be in Thai, or an interesting hybrid Thai-English mix, but that’s all the fun, right?

Funky tunes, funky logo.

If more than 400 artists and six stages isn’t enough for you, the two-day event also offers a flagship store with souvenirs, where you can get a T-shirt with a cow on it and explain to your lame friends at home you went to a Thai music festival. If you want to break away from the blasting sounds, there’s also the 'Lai-Plah-Muek (Squid’s Shoulder) Theatre' with contemporary, and probably strange, artwork.

Take a nap or get a back massage at the 'Refreshing Unit', with hammocks swinging from bamboo poles, or enter the 'Kao-Kai-Jiew' (stir-fried egg with rice) contest to vote on your favourite vendor. Of course, any Thai event wouldn’t be complete without a shopping centre; the 'Sam-Yan Street Market' is set to offers handicrafts, fresh food, drinks, and even hairstyling. If you’re still bored, there’s always the bumper cars.

To sleep, you can stay at one of the many guesthouses in Khao Yai (though, be warned, the traffic getting to and from the festival will be painful), or reserve campground. For those without tents, you can pay 800 baht for a plot of camping ground and a tent, which you get to take home. Just don't forget to bring your own sleeping bag! For 350 baht, you can reserve the camping ground alone. There are two camping zones, and plots are available at a first-come, first-serve basis, so come early.

Tent and campground reservations, along with tickets, can be made by calling Thai Ticket Major (TTM) (T: 262 3456, 9 for English) and paying at a 7-eleven. Tickets are 1,800 baht.

To get to Khao Yi, take a mini-bus at Victory Monument or from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) for around 250 baht, depending on the bus company. Travel time is approximately 2 to 3.5 hours. Expect delays upon entry to the park.

Festival attendees can also hitch a ride to the festival for 550 baht, with buses leaving from Mo Chit at the North Exit fence area at 08:30 on Saturday, December 10 and returning to Bangkok at 09:00 from the TTM ticketing point on Monday, December 12.

Tags: big mountain, big mountain music festival, festivals, khao yai, live music, music festivals, thai music, thai ticket major

You have some time to kill before a big trip, or a weekend to spare. You want to stay near Bangkok but get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Ko Samet is in no way an overseas destination island -- that is, if you’re travelling to Thailand for the first time and want a beach getaway, don’t make Ko Samet the only stop on your list. But Ko Samet is an easy bus and ferry ride away from Bangkok, with clear waters, sandy stretches, and lots of nighttime fun. The name “Samet” comes from the flower-bearing Cajeput trees, which are in abundance all over the island and known for their healing properties within aromatherapy.

Waves by the sea shore.

Ko Samet attained national park status in 1981, but you would never know except for the 400 baht entry fee you must pay upon arrival. The teardrop shaped island is densely populated with hotels, restaurants, bars, and even fire throwers at night. While the northeastern strip is packed (Hat Sai Kaew beach being the most developed), the western and northern parts of the island are relatively quiet. If you want some beach time peace away from the thick of it all, try Ao Phrao. The whole island is only eight kilometres long and filled with dense forests in the interior.

Ko Samet is really into hanging lights from trees. It's kind of their thing.

Getting there

Distance from Bangkok: 200 km

Total travel time: 4 hours

From Bangkok, take a bus from the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai Station) directly to Ban Phe in Rayong. Buses leave hourly from around 5:00–20:00, and are three to three-and-a-half hours long (157 baht, including air-con, water and a snack). You can also take a two-and-a-half hour bus from Ekkamai to Rayong leaving from 4:00–22:00 (140 baht), and from there take a short songthaew (around 30 baht) or motorcycle to Ban Phe.

Ticket booth to semi-paradise

Rival ticket booth to semi-paradise.

From Pattaya or Ko Chang, minivan services are available to Ban Phe. If you decide to spend the night in Rayong, you can easily find accommodation to break up your trip. Though the beaches are not developed and transportation difficult to come by, there are actually quite a few sleepy beach towns on the mainland popular for Thai vacationers, including Laem Charoen and Hat Mae Rampeung. For other vacation destinations outside of Bangkok, look here.

Alternatively, you can hire a private taxi for around 2,500 baht to take you directly from Bangkok to Ban Phe to cut down on travel time. Buses are also available from the Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal to Rayong and minibuses from Victory Monument directly to the ferry piers (250 baht). However, travelling from Ekkamai station is the most regular and reliable route.

Nuan Thip Pier at Ban Phe (it’s impossible to miss) services ferries to Na Dan, the fishing village and de facto capital of Ko Samet. The ferries should leave hourly and cost 50 baht one-way, 100 baht roundtrip from 8:00–16:00, 30 minutes from pier to pier. You will also have the option of purchasing a round trip ferry ticket along with your bus ticket in Ekkamai, but do so at your own risk, as the verification is the size of a stamp and as thin as toilet paper, and easily lost inside a packed backpack. There is no discount for buying a ferry ticket in Bangkok or roundtrip at the pier. Ferries from Ban Phe also depart to Ao Wong Deuan (3 km southwest of Hat Sai Kaew) on a less regular basis for 120 baht roundtrip.

A short ferry ride from Ban Phe, and you're there.

If you are getting in late or are travelling with a large party, it might make more sense to take a private charter, accommodating up to 10 people, leaving at all hours of the day and night (1,200 baht to Na Dan, depending on demand, and other beaches on the island upon request).

Ferry party boat.

Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai Station)
Sukhumvit Rd, near BTS Ekkamai
T: (02) 391 8097

Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit)
Kampheng Phet Rd, a short taxi or public bus ride from BTS Mo Chit
T: (02) 576 5599

Victory Monument Mini Bus Station
Phaya Thai Road, near BTS Victory Monument

Tags: Bangkok, ferry, Ko Samet, rayong

Ayutthaya was once one of the richest cities in the world and the capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. It was sacked by the Burmese in 1767, bringing down both the city and the kingdom. It's estimated that its population was more than 300,000 by the early 1600s, and grew to almost a million inhabitants in the early 1700s -- a truly staggering number, that if true, would have made Ayutthaya the largest city in the world. Its fall from grace was so quick and the evacuation of the population so sudden that the extensive temple complexes were abandoned to sit unused for years before the city repopulated. The temples still sit (some faring better than others in the tropical elements), unused, although many have been partially restored. It's a haunting testament to how quickly a civilization can fall.

Wrap a yellow ribbon around it.

There are many options for day trips to Ayutthaya, but I firmly believe that there is a right way and a wrong way to do it. The right way involves bicycles, picnic lunches among the ruins, and plenty of time for lazing about. The wrong way involves a minibus from Khao San, getting hauled around at lightening-speed, and a lot of aggravation. Choose wisely.

Nothing makes a man hungry for a picnic lunch like a fallen civilization.

Don't let anyone tell you different: Ayutthaya isn't hard to get to. The train runs right through town, buses run multiple times an hour, and public vans shoot back and forth constantly. The train is the slowest at two and a half hours, the cheapest at 35 baht for a 3rd class carriage, and the most beautiful, passing through kilometres of bright green rice paddies, fresh water ponds, and herds of water buffalo on the way. Minivans are the fastest option, leaving from Victory Monument (take BTS Exit 2 and u-turn at the bottom of the stair way, the van loading station will be to your right less than 25 metres away, between the mall and a 7-Eleven) and only taking 75 minutes -- busses split the difference between speed and cost, but leave from Mor Chit station in the north, which can be quite a hike depending on which part of town your accommodation is in.

Once in Ayutthaya, biking around is great fun. Traffic is light, and many times you'll be the only one cruising through some of the wat ruins. There are several places that rent bikes for the day clustered around the cross-river ferry between the train station and main town of Ayutthaya (40 baht a day).

Street food is plentiful, especially around Ayutthaya University (Rochana Rd and Si Sanphet Rd). Grab some food to go and eat laying in the shade of the trees growing around the ruins. You don't really need a map or a guide book for Ayutthaya; just ask whoever you rent a bike from which way to ride, and away you'll go. Ask anyone in town and they'll point towards the cluster of ruins. Part of the fun is discovering some of the quiet wats that are out of the way, off leafy side streets. Some sites have an entrance fee of 30 to 50 baht.

I will be killed by my mother, the bicyclist, for using this picture. Worth it. Wheeeeee!

An afternoon beer next to the river rounds the day off nicely, followed by either a speedy van ride back to Bangkok or a lazy train journey.

Tags: ayutthaya, cycling, ruins