Thai people from different parts of the country don't always agree on everything, but one area that without question pervades all of Thailand is a love for the spicy, salty, sour and sweet flavours of Isaan-style salads. As a bit of a disclaimer, while these salads are on the whole considered northeastern Thai (Isaan) cuisine, each region has developed distinct ways of preparing them, and it's probably fair to say that these are just Thai-style salads. Yet we love the loud and often painfully spicy flavours of the northeast, so we're giving Isaan its due.

No shortage of colour in the art of Isaan salads.

By far the most famous of the salads, and arguably Thailand's signature dish, is som tam. There are many subcategories to som tam, but most of them -- and actually most Isaan salads -- include loads of fresh chillies and garlic for the spicy, fish sauce for the salty, palm sugar for the sweet, and fresh lime juice for the sour. The most common som tams are made with shredded unripe or green papaya for its fresh, crunchy texture.

Tamarind, gapi (shrimp paste), peanut, dried shrimp, green bean, carrot and tomato are considered universal "take them or leave them" ingredients, but the secret of good som tam is not found in the ingredients but rather in nailing that delicate balance of flavours.

Some of som tam's key ingredients -- feel free to design your own.

Unless modifying the salad with a fragile ingredient, like fresh fruit or corn, som tam is typically made by pounding the ingredients with a mortar and pestle, and it's believed to have been made this way for more than 6,000 years (at least that's what an Isaan native tells us). Som tams are often teamed up with khao niew (sticky rice) and gai yang (grilled chicken), the more quiet flavours of which ease the sharpness of the salad. And a som tam would not be complete without a side of fresh veggies like cabbage, green beans, and tam ba tun (morning glory stems), which are a must for cooling the tongue.

Som tam gai yang khao niew -- could there be a better lunch?

Central Thailand's version, som tam Thai -- which includes roasted peanuts, dried shrimp and a sweeter taste -- is what's typically served in Thai restaurants all over the world. Isaan-style som tam, however, goes heavy on the spicy and sour and is often made with puu pla raa or pickled crab mixed with a pungent fermented fish sauce along with raw Asian eggplant. True Isaan som tam puu pla raa grins mockingly at the comparatively gentle som tam Thai, and while it might be over the top for some, the extreme spiciness and fishy saltiness of it can be a religious experience for the adventurous.

Make no mistake about it: even when requesting them "phet nit noi" (a little spicy), Isaan salads are usually more runny nose and tear inducing than watching that heart wrenching scene when E.T. finally goes home while chopping up a dozen onions, so be sure to have some tissues handy.

Som tam puu pla raa -- proceed with caution.

Variations on som tam come in many forms -- a handful of examples include tam taeng (substitute cucumber for papaya), tam mamueang (substitute green mango), tam tuewa (substitute string beans), tam baa (substitute bean sprouts and other veggies), tam phonlamai (substitute fresh fruit), and tam khanom jin (throw in some Chinese style vermicelli size rice noodles). Som tam is even finding its way into the fusion laboratories of modern cuisine blending chefs; we've given both som tam kim chee and deep fried som tam a try, and found both to be worthy adaptations of the classic.

Fried som tam -- unreal.

Som tam is clearly the most popular Isaan salad, but there are many more. If prepared well, my personal favourite not only of Isaan salads but of any Thai dish is muu nam tok or "waterfall pork", a spicy and tart mingling of grilled pork, mint leaves, scallion, red onion, parsley, basil, finely crushed toasted rice, and the sweet, sour, salty, and spicy base mentioned above, though in nam tok sour surpasses sweet. It can also be done with beef, but I find pork to fit in best with this addictive blend of flavours. Allow me to reiterate: if I were dying tomorrow and had only one dish to choose for my last meal, it would be nam tok. It's just that good.

Muu nam tok -- nothing beats it.

Then there's laap, a fiery but bold salad that features roasted chillies and garlic added to finely chopped chicken, pork or duck, a bit of scallion, and a few mint leaves for a hint of cool. The Isaan specialty laap ped (spicy duck salad) is the source of much upcountry pride, and I'll never forget the first time I gave it a whirl in Ubon Ratchathani. After years of practice, I can handle some serious spice, but this stuff was so hot I nearly jumped into the Mun River to put out the flames in my mouth.

Laap muu -- another work of art.

There are too many Isaan salads to mention here, but deserving honourable mentions are yam talay, which features similar ingredients as those in nam tok but with a mix of shrimp, squid and often bits of lemongrass, and suep naw mai, a mix of pickled bamboo shoots pounded with crushed toasted rice and an addictive spicy-salty-sourness made distinct by the earthiness of the bamboo shoots. And we can't forget yam woon sen, a delicate glass noodle salad that's usually served heavy on the onion, parsley and cilantro.

Yam woon sen with preserved salty egg and seafood -- ever so delicate.

Now that you've learned the basics on the fine art of Isaan salads, where should you go in Bangkok to critique them if Udon, Ubon, or Mukhadan aren't in your plans? Isaan-style street restaurants aren't hard to find (just look for the mortar and pestle), but stay tuned as we'll be reporting soon on a specialty joint that whips out 22 different types of som tam-style salads. Hope you like it spicy.

*Sincere thanks to Isaan native and som tam aficionado, Chinnapatt Chongtong, for her help with this post.

Tags: isaan salads, nam tok, northeast Thai salads, som tam, Thai salads, yam woon sen

When visitors come to Thailand, they tend to have a mental to-do list, derived from overheard stories at hostels, or the pages of a guide: ride an elephant, pet a tiger, eat a ripe mango, lay on the beach, and of course, visit a floating market. All of these things are possible, but the problem is, everyone else has the same idea too. Take Damnoen Saduak floating market, a Venus flytrap for swarms of tourists and avoided by Thais. But luckily, Bangkok, once called the ‘Venice of the East’, has rivers and canals twisting through in curlicues, and with them, numerous floating markets, including Bang Khla, Amphawa and most recently Bang Nam Pheung.

Partially floating market

Bang Nam Pheung is relatively new to the floating market scene, and unlike Damnoen Saduak, actually caters to locals. Situated just south of Bangkok in Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan province, Bang Nam Pheung is a designated agricultural zone, and the floating market was created to showcase the products of the region and stimulate the local economy. What makes Bang Nam Pheung different than most tourist destinations within Thailand is its emphasis on sustainability and eco-awareness, opting for banana leaves and coconut husks rather than the typical plastic bags in plastic bags in plastic bags.

Oyster omelette for your health.

The region is rich in natural resources, producing crops such as lemon, bitter gourd, bananas and mushrooms. Many of the stalls within the market sell only one kind of produce, or specialise in crafts made from raw materials native to the land, inspired by the One Tambon One Product initiative.

The floating market, which does not technically float, is an argosy of handicrafts you can’t find elsewhere, fresh produce, and delicious prepared food you can enjoy by the silty waters. The best way to tackle the market is by coming with an empty stomach in the early morning, and eating your way through to the very end. Once you're full, eat more. My floating market favourites? Tod man (fried catfish covered in a delectable sauce), oyster omelettes made to order, juicy Isaan sausage and coconut ice cream.

Soothing chimes to set the mood.

Reaching the floating market is no easy feat, but worth the trek. To make a day out of it, you can rent bicycles or a boat to journey down the river, visit the local Mon-style Buddhist temples, meander through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden, or even visit a haunted building and mystery lake. For a full Bang Nam Pheung excursion, stay overnight at Home Stay Bang Nampheung, or if you’re feeling like splurging, Bangkok Tree House, a luxury eco-hotel immersed in mangrove palms.

The market is open weekends 07:00-15:00, though vendors start packing up as early as 14:00. To avoid crowds and get the freshest foods, come as early as possible.

The easiest, yet most expensive way to reach Bang Nam Pheung (a 45 minute to one-and-a-half hour drive from central Bangkok), is by hiring a taxi for the full day (try Mr Kampol Srisomboon at 086 750 3634), as it will be more difficult to find a return taxi back to central Bangkok once you are there. You can also take the MRT to Klong Toei station or Queen Sirikit station, and from there, take a motorbike taxi or taxi to Klong Toei pier (Tha Klong pier). From the pier, take a longtail boat (10 baht) to Chaeng Pier on Ratrangsan Road, and then a motorbike, taxi, or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. Alternatively, you can take the BTS to Bang Na station, exiting from stairway #2, and then take a motorbike or taxi to Sanpawut pier, and from there, take a cross-river green ferry. From the other side, you must take a motorbike, taxi or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. You can also take an air-con bus to Phra Pradaeng from Victory Monument (#140), Chatuchak district (#138), or Bang Lampu (#82).

Home Stay Bang Nampheung
33/2 Moo 3, Bang Nam Pheung, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan
T: (08) 9825 0107, (02) 461 0843
350-400 baht

Bangkok Tree House
Moo 1, Bang Nam Pheung, Samut Prakan
T: (082) 995 1150
Doubles from 4,690 baht/US$150
www.bangkoktreehouse.com

Tags: bangkok tree house, damnoen saduak, floating markets, markets, one tambon one product

What do you get when you take a picturesque river setting and add friendly locals on row boats serving a plethora of fantastic, traditional Thai food? On a recent day trip to Bang Khla floating market east of Bangkok we found the definitive answer: a lot of very happy people. Like most of Thailand's modern floating markets this one exists more due to local tourist money than anything else, but there's no doubt that a good floating market helps keep Thais in touch with two vital elements of their ancient culture: food and boats.

Keeping it real.

In the old days, floating markets existed as a natural extension of a society connected by seas, rivers and canals. Situated in western Chachoengsao province along the Bang Pakong river, the modern Bang Khla floating market only developed in recent times, but markets have existed in one way or another at the site for hundreds of years.

Locally known as the "land of two water sources" due to this part of the river being a submerging point for fresh waters from the north and salty waters from the south, the Bang Khla area is home to a wealth of agriculture. So bountiful is the land that the legendary King Taksin led his battered army here to regroup immediately after it fell to Burmese forces at Ayutthaya in 1767. A memorial to the king still stands as tribute in the centre of Bang Khla town.

Unlike other markets there's plenty of space to sit and enjoy.

Due to it being relatively small, and requiring some effort to be reached from Bangkok, Bang Khla is well off the foreign tourist radar. Although it's popular with weekending Bangkokians, the market retains a definite country charm.

I'd like a boat load of som tam please.

While buying a couple fresh coconuts we chatted it up with a vendor who teaches English in a Bang Khla school on weekdays, contributing to the weekend market as more of a hobby than a means of livelihood. Whatever their reasons for spending weekends here, a great deal of pride was evident both in the demeanor of the local vendors and the fabulous edibles they produce.

Don't mess with the khanom ladies.

A healthy smattering of traditional Thai treats, snacks and meals can be sampled here, but Bang Khla is best known for its local fish and seafood. Fresh as can be and hot off a floating grill, whole river fish, jumbo shrimp, crab, squid and a range of shellfish fill the market's air with savoury scents.

So you can catch a fish and grill it right there on the boat -- brilliant!

We arrived to Bang Khla right after a rather freakish food indulgence at Khlong Suan old market, and our stomachs didn't have a lot of room leftover. We did manage, however, to devour a mix of fresh cockles and mussels with an array of chilli-lime-garlic based dipping sauces, chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad, and a fiery plate of som tam puu paara (green papaya salad with salty crab).

Our modest late afternoon spread.

For what constituted our fifth dessert of the day, we also couldn't resist the local Bang Khla specialty, thoowa pap -- a semi-sweet finger food made from locally produced peanut, jasmine flower, palm sugar, pandan leaf and shredded coconut along with rice flour for consistency and aan chan (Asian pigeon wing flower) for the bright, natural purple colour. The Bang Khla area is also known to produce some of the best mangoes in all of Thailand, so we made sure to stock up: six kilos of sour green and yellow sweet mangoes for just 120 baht.

Wonder if anyone would notice if I just went for a little fruit cruise?

Bang Khla is located some 80 kilometres east of Bangkok, so plan on a whole day if coming by bus or a half day if you have your own wheels. Buses run to Bang Khla at least twice an hour from both Morchit (northern) and Ekkamai (eastern) terminals in Bangkok, and either way the trip takes a little over an hour without much traffic. You could also catch a train to Chachoengsao at Bangkok's Hualumphong station and hop on to a bus to Bang Khla from there.

Once in Bang Khla you can take a songthaew, motorbike taxi or tuk tuk (tell them "talaart naam bang khla") to the market, which isn't far from the bus station. It's also possible to negotiate a taxi from Bangkok, which could take you round trip to the market and back for around 1,000 baht. Or, do what we did and combine Bang Khla with Khlong Suan as part of a full day market adventure. Bang Khla floating market runs on Saturdays and Sundays only, from 07:00 to 16:00.

Tags: Bang Khla, Chachoengsao, floating markets, markets

On one side of Soi Texas (formally known as Soi Phadung Dao), a scraggly soi in the middle of Chinatown, sits the Red Shirts, and on the other, the Green Shirts. The Red Shirts are probably not the ones you are thinking of; the long-standing fracas between the Red and Green Shirts has little to do with Thai politics but rather it all comes down to crabs. And char-grilled freshwater prawns. And raw oysters on the half shell.

A fugue state in Chinatown.

The Red Shirts make up R & L Seafood, and the Green Shirts, T & K Seafood. Reading their menus might induce a mild case of deja vu, but Red and Green shirt enthusiasts and purveyors of food feuds would argue differently. In the case of defusing a bomb, I’ve been told to avoid the red wire, but on Soi Texas, I would go for the red without looking back. Why? Maybe for no better reason then it was the first of the two I frequented, and as they say, you never forget your first time.

The dress code is street-chic with an added sheen of sweat, and the venue is pavement blocks and tables akimbo. You can get a steamed lobster served to you on porcelain at a buffet brunch in Bangkok, but on Yaowarat Road, the shellfish comes on plastic plates and there is no pretence of luxury. In the words of our own Brock Kuhlman, great late night street eats are a must. And push any fears of a lack of food safety aside: because the contents of R & L’s pop-up kitchen are splayed out on the street, and they have to restock their inventory daily, the seafood is likely fresher than anything you could buy inside the walls of an air-con restaurant.

Go Red!

A local and farang favourite, R & L (and its chartreuse neighbour, T & K) is always packed, and an infelicitous choice for large groups or those who want privacy. But the red-clad staff are used to dealing with flocks of customers and adept at making room for you in what feels like an elaborate game of musical chairs. The lengthy and overwhelming menu is in both English and Thai, with accompanying photographs to aid you in deciding.

Every seafood dish I have ordered has been delectable – I still daydream about the curry-powder crab – so you can’t really go wrong. The accompanying vegetable dishes, in comparison, are lacking, but sautéed morning glory or kale drenched in brown sauce help break-up an otherwise protein heavy meal. My method? Bring a few friends, order shrimp, oysters, clams, mussels, crabs, prawns, a whole fish in varying sauces – taste a little of everything, and everyone goes home happy. The dishes range from 100 to 400 baht each (the whole fishes get steep), but are worth every baht.

Streetside chic.

R & L (Rut & Lek) Seafood
Phadung Dao Rd, Yaowarat Rd
Open Mon-Tue, 19:00-3:00;Wed-Thurs 21:00-12:00; Fri-Sun 18:00-01:00
If you take a cab, ask for Soi Texas on Yaowaraj Road or look for lit-up 'Texas' signs.

Tags: chinatown, R&L Seafood, seafood, soi texas, T&K Seafood

If you followed our street food adventure series, you’ll know that the best way to experience Thai food is by getting down-and-dirty on the congested Bangkok streets. As a general rule, the cheaper the food, the better the taste; the more limited the menu, the fresher the food. But then there is the other extreme: restaurants in the highest price bracket that offer air-con, delicious cuisine and a fresh towel to wipe your brow. And, if you’re going to splurge, you might as well go all out with a five-star, all-you-can-eat buffet. That way, you can store enough food in your stomach to last a day or two, or three. Turns out to be a deal, right?

Don't stop here.

If seafood is your protein of choice, I can recommend the weekend ‘Craving for crustaceans’ buffet at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s Viola! Despite its odd list of descriptors – Parisian, Thai and heavy on the seafood – the recipe seems to work. The experience comes at a steep price (1,800 baht, 50% off for five to 12 year-olds), but if you eat enough mussels shipped in from New Zealand, they might even lose money on you.

After my intrepid search for quality cheese on pizza in Bangkok, I nearly reached nirvana after seeing a room devoted solely to cheese here. You read that right: an entire room. And further afield from the main buffet table, tucked away so you won’t notice it until you’ve already stuffed your stomach beyond human capacity, is a brick oven with made-to-order pizzas.

While Viola’s diverse assortment of delicacies is confusing, gastrointestinally, you can get a little of everything (or a lot). Don’t forget the tower of chocolate fondue. And if you’re not too stuffed, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit has direct access to Bangkok’s newest commercial behemoth, Terminal 21. Walk off the meal while window shopping.

Still not full?

For setting with a touch of swank and a lot of splendour, Riverside Terrace at the legendary Mandarin Oriental is host to a nightly barbecue by the riverside. I would venture to say the quality pales ever so slightly in comparison to Viola!, but the enviable views of the Chao Phraya river make up for this. A felicitous way to award yourself after a full day of sightseeing at Wat Pho, Wat Arun, and/or The Grand Palace, Riverside Terrace offers an all-you-can-eat-and-then-some buffet (2,766 baht, 2,001 baht for children) replete with ice sculptures. Ice in Bangkok!

For an early dose of luxury, the Mandarin also entertains guests in their Authors’ Lounge, a patrician affair fit for royalty with tea, crumpets and all. If you like the real estate, but aren’t up for plowing through a buffet, you can always head to Viva and Aviv for tropical drinks by the river.

So fresh and from so far.

If you're after a flash brunch, St Regis Bangkok fills the bill with its Sunday Brunch at VIU. With sweeping views of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, get deliciously full and trashed at the same time with unlimited Bloody Marys and martinis of the week, and a buffet spread that includes such Bangkok rarities as foie gras and Boston lobster (2,400 baht, includes drinks). While your stomach struggles with digestion, be soothed by the sound of jazz from the in-house saxophonist. Oh, and grab a plate of the slow-roasted lamb if you still have room.

Viola!
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 2^nd floor
189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15, Bangkok
Open: 06:00-10:30/12:00-15:00/18:00-22.00 (All-day buffet, seafood buffet weekends)
T: (02) 126 9998-9

Riverside Terrace
Mandarin Oriental
48 Oriental Avenue, Charoenkrung Soi 40, Bangkok
Barbecue buffet: 19:00-23:00
T: (02) 659 9000 ext 7610

VIU
St Regis Bangkok, 12^th floor
159 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok
Sunday buffet: 12:00-16:00
T: (02) 207 7819

Tags: all-you-can-eat, buffets, Mandarin Oriental, riverside terrace, Sofitel bangkok, st regis, viola!, viu

Chatuchak and Siam Square are great places to shop in Bangkok, but if looking for an authentic, non-touristy Thai market, sometimes it's necessary to stray off the beaten path. Khlong Suan old market is most certainly out of the way, to put it nicely, or in the middle of nowhere, to be blunt, but for a taste of traditional Thai culture -- and a food experience that could very well be a highlight of your trip -- it's well worth the extra effort.

What treats await beyond these walls?

Khlong Suan is a canal that was once the fastest way to journey from Bangkok to the more easterly Bang Pakong River and beyond. It was along this canal that the market sprung up more than 100 years ago, and it has long acted as a central meeting point for traders, travellers and farmers from all over central and eastern Thailand. Most of the boats have today been replaced by cars and buses but the market is still a middle ground for people from Bangkok, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Chon Buri provinces, attracting day-trippers from as far afield as Rayong to the south and Nakhon Nayok to the north.

Not a foreign tourist in sight.

The market was eventually named after the canal, which itself was named from the fertile grounds that surround it (khlong suan translates to "canal of gardens"). Though weathered and rather dilapidated in places, the market possesses a wise and noble air. A living and breathing memorial to traditional Thai culture, it doesn't look or feel all that different today than it would have when Thailand was still known as Siam.

The area surrounding the market can feel more like an old neighbourhood than a market.

While the old market's history adds some extra mystique, most visitors come for one reason only -- to eat. For food lovers who don't shy away from the exotic, this place is heaven with a liberal helping of fresh chillies and fish sauce.

Just as it would have looked a century ago.

So what did we try? The better question would be what did we not try? We started off with deep-fried Chinese-style veggie dumplings (khanom guiy chai), then on to some psychedelic looking preserved eggs with salted bean and fish (tort mun kai yeow mah).

Look in to the secret orb, I mean, egg.

Next it was deep-fried pork wontons with sweet chilli sauce (khanom tung tong), followed by coconuts stuffed with pureed sweet and spicy fish red curry and topped with a healthy splattering of rich coconut cream (haw muk mawt phlao). And these were just the appetisers.

Sweet, savoury, magnificent; or in Thai, simply aroi.

After a brief traditional Thai coffee break we dove back in with northern Thai-style curried soup with crispy noodles and chicken (khao soi).

Half-way through this khao soi I needed reminding that I was not in Chiang Mai.

And then, dessert: durian- and roselle-flavoured popsicles, coconut ice cream mixed with coconut meat and peanuts served in a coconut shell, and finally some spongy taro and strawberry flavoured southern Thai style cakes, still hot from a clearly visible on-site oven.

Roselle and coconut ice cream treats -- elegant and refreshing.

Always plotting our future food adventures, we also snatched up homemade egg noodles (ba mee), raw local spices like turmeric and galangal, dried shiitake mushrooms, particularly sweet mangoes that are difficult to find elsewhere, and freshly roasted peanuts (you know, for the road).

Ensuring the long trip back will be a pleasant one -- peanuts.

We were by this point feeling a little on the stuffed side, so we decided to go for a walk across the canal's signature, unusually high foot bridge. On the way, we checked out a small museum within the market that had, among other things, some dusty old three-quarter full bottles of scotch on display. Before making it outside we had a look at some of the non-food items available in the market: a traditional chewable stimulant made from betel nut and tobacco; homemade brooms and baskets; pet fish; and live turtles.

I'd run too little fella; best of luck to you.

Getting to Khlong Suan is a little tricky, but if you're up for an adventure (or for forking out some baht to a tour company), you will be rewarded. The cheapest way is to catch a Bangkok to Bang Khla bus from Ekkamai, but make sure to tell the driver you want to be dropped at "talart khlong suan." Buses leave regularly throughout the day and it's a little less than an hour (without much traffic) once you're on the bus.

To get back you can wait to flag down a returning bus along the main road near the market, or if getting antsy you can catch a songthaew bound for the bus stations of either Prachasoengchao or Bang Khla, either of which will have buses heading back to Bangkok.

"Come on, I dare you to make the trip."

Khlong Suan is about 25 km directly east of Suvarnabhumi airport along Lat Krabang Road, so another option is to take the airport link commuter train (which has a connection to the BTS sky train at Phaya Thai Station in Bangkok), and catch a taxi from somewhere in the airport vicinity. If wanting a return trip make sure to negotiate a price with the taxi driver before leaving the Suvarnabhumi area (around 500 baht seems fair to us; more if you want to linger for longer than 45 minutes to an hour).

Of course, you could also catch a taxi from anywhere in Bangkok, or if all of the above sounds too daunting there's no shortage of Bangkok-based tour companies that can arrange guided trips to the market in the 1,500 baht per person range (cheaper if you can get more than a few heads together).

Khlong Suan market is open every day from early morning until around 16:00.

There's another good market in Bang Khla, which we'll be reporting on soon, so stay tuned if you want to make it a full day market adventure.

Tags: Khlong Suan old market

Thai people are not known for being overly serious about too many things, but when it comes to food, Thailand means business. So when some locals recently let me know about a nondescript restaurant tucked away in Sathorn's Larai Sap market that has possibly the best roast duck egg noodle soup (ba mee nahm ped) in Bangkok, I sought it out. Like many small Bangkok restaurants this place goes by a very straightforward name: Khao na ped ba mee, which translates simply as "Rice or egg noodle with duck".

Want another translation? "DUCK LOVERS WANTED" will suffice just fine.

After getting sidetracked by a vendor selling home-made khanom buea (fried sweet rice cakes naturally dyed green; more of a dessert really but I have zero ability to resist them) in low-key Larai Sap market, I made it to the restaurant at a little past 13:00 when their lunch rush had just subsided. They were already preparing to close down for the day since their duck supply was running low, but luckily they had just enough left to dish me out a helping of ba mee nahm ped and indeed I was not disappointed.

While lacking the extreme spicy, salty, sour and/or sweet tastes found in so many Thai soups and other dishes, the restaurant's signature duck broth was mild yet well balanced, quiet yet distinct. Though I love the loud, vibrant and often painfully spicy flavours of Thai staples like som tam and gaeng pa, I found it refreshing to find a traditional Thai dish that actually reminded me a little of the northern New England style chicken soup my Mum used to feed me when I was sick as a kid. Tempered with onion, garlic, cilantro and scallion, the broth has a soft, comforting appeal that complements rather than overpowers the subtle flavour and textures of the roast duck itself.

If Bangkok were a rainbow (which it is), this would be the pot of gold at its end.

And truly the duck is the star of this show. The perfectly cooked strips were tender, with a secret house glaze on the skin that pushed the dish from, "Wow this is really good!" to, "Mother, father, God, Buddha, cosmic forces and/or whoever else THANK YOU for putting me on this earth and giving me a tongue to taste with!" In its supporting role, the glaze complemented the duck's distinctive earthy flavour rather than surpassing it.

Hardly an afterthought, the homemade ba mee egg-wheat noodles rounded out the dish and drove home its overall "comfort food" appeal. While I always enjoy the more typical Thai rice noodles, something about the way ba mee noodles seem to effortlessly relax their way o to the spoon and melt away in the mouth makes them fit into this particular dish like a glove. Though it's good at any time of day, this dish is especially suited (and easily digested) in the morning.

Although ba mee ped is the restaurant's signature dish, they also serve seeklong muu daeng (roasted red pork ribs with rice) and khao na ped (roast duck with rice in a sweet and spicy hoison sauce), both of which are sure to make your tongue happy as well.

Simple decor, memorable food.

The restaurant is open from 7:00 to around 14:00 (or whenever they run out of duck), but if showing up between 11:00 and 12:30 expect to wait for a table as it gets packed with local lunch breakers during that time. There's no English menu -- in fact there's no Thai menu either apart from a sign posted on the wall -- but if you can't manage to communicate your desired dish in Thai a basic request for "duck noodle" or "duck rice" should suffice. All dishes cost between 35 and 60 baht.

To get here take the BTS (sky train) to Chong Nonsi and leave the station through exit number four. At the bottom of the stairs walk straight on the main road for a short distance and then take the first right down the side street at Top Charoen Optical. Larai Sap market will begin shortly, and not too far in look for another smaller alley to the left, which at its beginning is occupied by a couple of fruit vendors and noodle stands off to the sides. Khao na ped ba mee restaurant (there's no English sign) is at the end of this alley, on the right. Larai Sap is a day market open from around 06:00 to 16:00.

Tags: duck noodle soup, Khao Na Ped Ba Mee

Big moves require big plans, or at least that's the way we roll here at Travelfish.org. When one of our writers found out that he and his partner were being transferred away from Bangkok, it called for a last hurrah -- some sort of ridiculous gesture that included both intense (and preferably bizarre) exertion, as well as plenty of planning. A plan was born: bicycling from Bangkok to Singapore. @BrockEats explains:

Uhhhh, wheels? Yes, wheels.

Why Bangkok to Singapore? Well, why not? I like to eat. Draw a line (not a straight line) between Bangkok and Singapore and you connect central Thai food, southern Thai food, Malay food, Nyonya food (food brought by Chinese immigrants and then adapted to Malaysian ingredients), Portuguese-influenced Melakan food, and Singaporean food which is a rehash of all that with a little Indonesian influence thrown in. It's a trail of curries, stir fries, rice noodles, grilled meat, seafood both curried and barbecued, and more cold beer than I'll know what to do with.

It's not all about food, though. I might have lived in Southeast Asia for only two and a half years but I'm besotted. It's got problems, oh trust you me: corruption, poor land management, malnutrition, racism, and more. It's also poor and developing unevenly, but I just can't help it: I love it. So this journey is one final swan song, a long tango, the last goodbye. Ridiculous? Maybe, but I've never had a geographic lover before.

And by bicycle? I've always loved to cycle. It's quiet. It's slow enough to see what's sliding past, but fast enough to actually make some distance in a day. It feels like you are flying. I'll probably change my tune slightly as I labour up a hill in the middle of the hot season or change my fifth flat tire of the day, but right now I can't wait to get started. Cycling also takes a while -- almost 2,000 kilometres lies between Bangkok and Singapore -- so even if we burn it up, we'll still get a few weeks slowly ticking through rice paddies, alongside the sea, and into the Malaysian hills. I like my goodbyes to take awhile (and be punctuated with many, many snacks.)

We're totally experts, obviously.

But it's no fun to eat alone, and cycling 2,000 kilometres sort of begs for a sidekick-kind of situation. Luckily I have one friend who enjoys both ridiculous plans AND food in mass quantities: Gaby. So today, we kick off to Singapore: Gaby and I, our bicycles (named Boy and Rhonda), a fair amount of bravado, and hopefully the winds at our back. Wish us luck!

Tags: cycling

Just when we thought Brock Kuhlman had farewelled us with this swansong on Bangkok's food for life's tribulations, we uncover a post of his buried in the depths of the drafts department... So enjoy -- but first check out part 1 of this street eating guide here.

Walk down the sidewalk 10 metres or so and there will be two-wheeled carts that do fried noodles with small tables set up to the right along a fence. The pad see ew is well done, with charred noodles and just the right amount of dark soy to sweeten the noodles, and they do a good version of pad thai -- although there could be more tamarind, it is mouthwateringly satisfying. Beers can be purchased from the 7-eleven a few metres down and brought back to your tables -- just ask the cashier to open the bottles (charades is your path to success here).

Smells like angry trash, tastes like happiness.

What would a meal be without a cleansing end? Walk 200 metres down Rangnam, past the King Power Duty Free Complex on your left, and there are fruit and sweets vendors clustered around the 7-eleven on the right side of the road. Try odoriferous and complex durian (this spikey fruit smells like angry trash but tastes like delicious custard), or any of the grilled sticky rice sweets (they'll be wrapped in banana leaf wrappers and roasted over coals).

Sticky rice and banana sweets.

Conveniently, you're close to the end of your sojourn. The BTS is just around the corner to the right whisking you back to Sukhumvit or Silom.

Still not done? Oh friend, neither is Rangnam. Across from the 7-eleven is a cluster of street stalls serving khao muu daeng (braised red pork served over rice), fried rice and another sidewalk bar popular with hipster college students. This sidewalk bar also has good gap glaem, or food specifically served when drinking; try their laap muu tawt which is like a deep-fried croquette, except in place of boring potato they put spicy Isaan-style pork and sticky rice. Win.

Coals glowing in the velvet night.

Rinse and repeat. And repeat. And repeat. Oh god, the food; it's just. so. glorious.

Tags: durian, Rangnam Road, street food

It's with a heavy heart that I admit I'm leaving Bangkok; life is pulling in other directions. People wonder why I love living here -- it's hot, chaotic, sometimes heart-breakingly cruel, but I've never been happier, or better fed. For me, being well fed apparently makes anything bearable. I respect a culture that in the midst of flooding didn't forget to send tiny portions of fish sauce with emergency rations or feels that a riot is also a sensible place to have a barbecued chicken stall. Not much about Bangkok makes sense, but that does. And so, in a spirit of unbridled melancholy about the approaching departure date, I present five foods for five trials. They're not just to soothe your hunger, but your soul, too.

Bangkok at dusk.

Five foods for five trials

Predict the future by seeing through time.

Heartbreak requires time to mend, but right in the beginning you need tears. Natural or induced. Som tam mamuang is your answer -- sour green mango is shredded and pounded with garlic, chillies, lime, tomato slices and long beans. Ask for this dish (or its green papaya-based sister, som tam thai) with as many chillies as you think you can handle. Serious heartbreak requires serious work to recover; ask for eight chillies (sai prik baat met) and you will be able to see through time (into the future when you have a better, sexier, smarter new girl/boyfriend).

Shame is best treated with heat, but not in the same way that heartbreak requires. Shame comes with that bitter admission of guilt -- and you need a bitter remedy. Gaeng paa are (fabulously spicy) curries that are never tempered with coconut milk, and are just slightly (in an excellent way) medicinally bitter with the addition of galangal and grachai (brother to ginger, cousin to ginsing, respectively). Your mouth will be on fire in punishment, but the bitter tang will remind you that you're an idiot so don't do that again. Also, it tastes great.

Like xanax, except also delicious.

Death is not welcome news anywhere but it's compounded when you don't have anybody to talk with about your gran because everyone is asleep at home and you're halfway round the world. It's lonely -- you need food that comforts, demanding nothing in return. You need noodle soup. Steaming hot as you sweat sitting on a plastic bench, baa mee noodles floating with pork and shrimp wantons, you can almost remember what it was like before you heard the news. It's automatic to eat so emotion processing can take up all of your mental space. Nothing gets you ready for grief like good soup.

Tomorrow is going to be rough.

Hangovers are not exactly on the level of heartbreak or death, but they are not to be ignored. Feeling shame about your previous night coupled with the fact it's a thousand degrees out and you're dehydrated? You need massive infusions of fried noodles, stat. Pad see ew is the grown-up's choice of noodle-based salvation; marinated pork, chinese kale, and slick, slightly dark-soy-sweetened rice noodles are wok fried until they start to caramelize a bit. Top with chilli-infused fish sauce, ground white pepper, the tiniest spoon of sugar, and crushed chilli flakes. It's like Jesus raising Lazarus from the dead. [Note: Pad kii mao is the grown-up's choice for noodles while still drunk and anticipating tomorrow's hangover.] Also to be considered: coolie noodles.

EAT. ALL. THE. NOODLES.

Defeat is never avoided. For all travellers, for all people who live, defeat comes at some point. In Bangkok, you've accidentally dropped your bag into a canal. You've definitely just been cheated on a taxi fare. Traffic is a nightmare and you're too tired to fight any more. There are times when we just have to say: fine. I lost. And that's when we eat pad sataw muu thawt. Sataw are strange, slightly astringent fresh beans (think the texture of fresh lima beans or edamame) that are sauteed with slices of pork belly that has been marinated, fried, and then sliced into lardons. It's fatty and crispy, and the slight, pleasant bitterness of the sataw cuts through the rich pork fat expertly. We might be defeated, but with full stomachs, we live to fight another day.

Where shall I eat for which trial?

Heartbreak: Club Chevron (formerly Club Esso)
Shame: Bangkok Noi Market
Death: Hat Man Noodles
Hangovers: Chinatown street stalls (noodle stalls do pad see ew and pad kii mao)
Defeat: Kua Kling

Tags: Bangkok Noi market, chinatown, club chevron, hat man noodles, kua kling, som tam, street food