Thailand is known for its lush silks and elaborate textiles, but in Bangkok proper, cheap and trendy clothing abounds. As we can see from Bangkok's haunted mall and airport terminal, shopping is a bit of cultural obsession, one that is highly contagious. You can't avoid shopping in Bangkok even if you try: opportunities for snapping up all kinds of souvenirs, as well as other temptations like cheap DVDs and well, just plain old quirky stuff, await on every street corner.

Tiny man shoes.

It's tricky to be in Bangkok on a budget, and even harder to cut down on shopping, but you can easily find cute clothing that won't break the bank. As warned in "What to bring with you to Bangkok" and "What to wear in Bangkok", both female and male clothing for sale in Thailand is generally made for people with no curves or folds, and is, shall we say, on the short side. But you can still get lucky: look for clothing with elastic, billowy shirts, and "reinvented" vintage clothing. Though do be careful, dear buyer, as even if these pieces were once Western in size, they are often tailored and elasticised to now fit a Thai body.

At most of the stores and stalls that sell cheap clothing, you are not able to try the pieces on before you buy them, but vendors will often have full-length mirrors so you can ever-so surreptitiously check yourself out in your potential new garb. If you don't have a friend with you to eyeball the size, I have a trick that always works: hold up the waistline of a skirt or trousers around your neck -- if you can wrap it around comfortably than it will fit your waist.

Do keep in mind why you are buying the clothes: because they are cheap and have a fashion shelf-life of about an hour. Don't get too upset if they decompose before you get home. Even so, check your garment for unwanted sequins, inspect the hems for loose threads, and unroll the sleeves of shirts to look for stains.

For the absurdly cheap and convenient, go to Siam Square at exit 2 or 4 at Siam BTS, where the sidewalk transforms into an outdoor shopping mall from afternoon until night. The streets get congested, so watch yourself and your stuff, or slip into a side alley where you may find more independent designers. If mass-produced and poorly assembled clothing doesn't suit your fancy, you can always walk over to Siam Discovery Mall or Siam Paragon for more upscale apparel with a larger range in size.

Siam pales in comparison to the thousands of clothing vendors at Chatuchak (JJ) Market, which is only open on the weekends and more of a shopping commitment than Siam's walk-by stalls. JJ Market has more variety and vintage finds, but the prices are not always cheap, at least by Thai standards. If you want more street-stall clothes, head to Victory Monument, right near the BTS stop, for some printed summer dresses and a bowl of boat noodles to go with them.

The "over-sized" style is in... for now.

Further out from the centre of town, you can experience the crepuscular allure of a night bazaar at the On Nut Square directly off the On Nut BTS, which wraps up around 22:00. Or try Huai Khwang Market at Huai Khwang MRT near the Tesco Lotus at Prachasongkhro intersection and Ratchadaphek Road, which serves as a food market by day and a clothing market until the wee hours of the night.

For electronics, knock-off designer bags and hair scrunchies that sparkle, head to Mahboonkrong (MBK) connected to National Stadium BTS. The clothing and accessories are by no means dead-ringers for the runway versions, but their jagged seams and stiff fabrics have a certain honest charm. Of course, if you want to build your dharma bum wardrobe with drawstring pants and intentionally frayed shirts, there's always Khao San Road, lined with clothing shops along with fake Oxford diplomas, and the occasional vegetarian restaurant.

Tags: Chatuchak, clothes, Huai Khwang Market, markets, MBK, On Nut Square, Siam Square

Tis the season to be jolly, or if you are in Thailand, hang out by the beaches, trek alongside elephants, or stand under a waterfall. Thailand, a Buddhist country, may not have a traditional white Christmas, but there are plenty of easy-to-get-to getaways just outside of Bangkok for fun in the sand. If you’re looking for a Christmas chill, or at least temperatures below scorching, one non-beach option is Kanchanaburi, two to three hours (139 km) west of Bangkok along the River Kwai.

Believe it or not, it still runs trains daily.

The main tourist attraction is the Death Railway Bridge , a creaky iron structure built by prisoners of war and later a prime target of Allied bombing raids. You can wax historic at any number of the museums dedicated to showcasing Kanchanaburi’s involvement in WWII, including the WII Museum, Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery, the JEATH War Museum, Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery, and the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre -- you can see a full list of things to do here.

You'll also no doubt hear about the Tiger Temple, a strange place for tourists to take pictures with sedated looking tigers. We don't recommend a visit; if you’re considering visiting, please read this first.

But the real gem of Kanchanaburi is the sleepy River Kwai itself, which flows sleepily through the town -- there are plenty of riverside places to stay.

Sunset from Keeree Tara (aka the best meal you will eat in Kanchanaburi).

The food alone is enough of a reason to come to Kanchanaburi. You can eat river prawns and pineapple fried rice inside a carved coconut at Keree Tara Restaurant, a modern eatery with oh-so-fresh tastes and delectable views. At night, the river sparkles, and you can take a river (and karaoke!) cruise to enjoy all of its splendour. Finish off the day strong by hitting up the Night Bazaar by the bus station and then bar-hopping along Maenam Kwai Road.

The riverside city is a bit too big to get around on your feet; the best and most enjoyable way to see the sights while still catching the river breeze is by renting a bicycle.

To fully appreciate what Kanchanaburi and its surrounds has to offer, take a day trip to Erawan National Park or Sai Yok Park, both with a 200 baht entry fee for tourists. You can visit waterfalls, kayak through limestone caves with hidden Buddhist temples, take a bamboo raft along the river, and feed elephants. Now, how’s that for a merry Christmas or a happy Hannukah?

Nothing more romantic than a train ride, eh?

To get to Kanchanaburi, buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes to Kanchanaburi’s bus station for 100 baht. Or catch a minibus at Victory Monument/Khao San Road, which will leave as soon as it fills up. Prices may vary depending on the company, but expect to pay 100 to 200 baht. For a slow and scenic journey, take the Bangkok Noi-Nam Tok train line, which leaves from Bangkok Noi Station in Thonburi and takes around three hours (100 baht). You can find a more detailed schedule here.

Keeree Tara Restaurant
43/1, Tha Makham
T: (034) 624 093
www.keereetara.com
Open 11:00-24:00

Tags: bangkok to kanchanaburi, Erawan National Park, kanchanaburi, keree tara, national parks, River Kwai, tiger temple, waterfalls

It's not been the end that most would hope for -- a clean whooshing sound as all of the flood water washed out to sea and left Bangkok licking its wounds and restocking its 7-Elevens. The floods are *not* over -- not for millions in the northern suburbs, not for millions who live across the river in the Thonburi half of Bangkok, not for hundreds of thousands north of Bangkok who are just starting to shovel the deposited mud from their drying homes. That said, the flood waters that were creeping south towards Victory Monument and Siam Square have stopped creeping, and in some places, started to recede.

Monks transit a flooded pier, Bangkok.

The most central part of Bangkok, including Sathorn and Silom, Khao San Rd, Sam Sen, Victory Monument, Democracy Monument, Ari, Sukhumvit and Siam Square, are dry now and will not be flooded, barring some phenomenal change in situation. So what are we left with at this point?

The international airport, Suvarnabhumi, is operating as normal, as it has been throughout this crisis. The domestic airport, Don Muang, is closed and still submerged. Estimates to when it will reopen fluctuate wildly, but it won't open until the New Year at the earliest. Nok Air and Orient Thai are both operating from Suvarnabhumi.

Inner-city rail service is operating as normal, with the Airport Rail Link, BTS Skytrain and MRT Subway systems all operating a good service. Some entrances at MRT stations have been barricaded, but all stations are operating. Bus service in Bangkok is operating as normal in most areas, with a few detours around deeply flooded areas in the north and west of the city. Taxis and tuk tuks are running like always.

Slowing drying neighborhoods.

Intra-city rail services to the East and Northeast are operating relatively normally, with minor re-routing through eastern parts of Bangkok to avoid flooded tracks. Similarly, services to the North, including Chiang Mai, have been restored using an alternate route. The journey takes an extra five hours. Southern destinations depart from Nakhon Pathom station about an hour west of Bangkok -- ticket holders are bussed from Hualamphong station. More information available by phone on 1690 from the State Railways of Thailand.

Bus services to affected parts of the North are running for the most part, using alternate routes where necessary. Mo Chit Bus Terminal and Ekkamai Terminal are both operating, however the Southern Bus Terminal has been relocated to Holland Beer House because of high water, but bus service to the south continues uninterrupted.

Chao Phraya Express Boat services are cancelled at least until the end of November as their refuelling terminal is still submerged, but most cross-river services are operational. Saen Saeb Canal Ferry services are running normally now.

Going to be a lot of sandbags to get rid of. Chao Phraya Beach?

So what's to stop you from coming to Bangkok? Well, it's still an unstable situation with a lot of water needing to move through and around the city before the crisis is over. Outside of that, however, not much at all. Drinking water is available (although the supply is a bit spotty -- you might have to check a few shops), and the Kingdom hasn't run out of food or beer or booze. The lights are on and almost all of the tourist attractions are open (and don't believe a single tuk tuk driver who tells you otherwise). Keep your eye on the news to make sure nothing has changed, but Thailand needs your tourist dollars now more than ever. Come and spend them.

Tags: bangkok floods, buses, Chao Phraya Express, floods, thai floods, trains

If you remember part 1, we ended up on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya at ID Beer Bar on Khlong San Pier.

Time for some mild organisation, so get your A to Z. Walk back towards the pier, but turn right and go through the Khlong San market. Snacks, fried noodles, and grilled meats are available at the food stands on the right for those who need more solid sustenance. Take a cab from Khlong San Market to Wang Lang Market Pier (Tha Talad Wang Lang in Thai), a few clicks north along the Chao Phraya. Facing the entrance to the pier, turn right and walk along the small alley to the first right -- there on the corner is Zoom 4 Zoom 5, the strangest river bar along the Chao Phraya.

River views from Zoom 4 Zoom 5. Just the name makes this place great.

Up the stairs is the terrace, with a great view of the Grand Palace lit up in the velvet blackness of the riverside. Order food and drinks from the counter; you'll have to mix your own drinks and retrieve your own ice here (there's a station for ice, glasses and utensils near the counter) as it's strictly bar service. After a sufficient number of refreshments, it's time to cross back to Bangkok proper. Take the cross river ferry towards Thammasat University and walk straight up the street from Wang Lang Pier.

Turn left when you reach Sanam Luang (a big open oval field). Turn right. Continue around the oval, crossing the street at Ratchadamri Road, and continue away from the circle, towards the Democracy Monument, where you'll find Khao San Road off to your left. Success!

Proceed, crawling with caution; it's decision time upon reaching Khao San Road. Will this evening end in dancing? Will it end in bonding/weeping over buckets filled with cheap liquor? Will it end with some plates of spicy Thai food to clear heads and inflame tongues? The end of the crawl can only be a game time decision, but there are options.

For terrible music (which let's be honest, sometimes is the best), head to the Rambutri end of Khao San for dancing, revelry, and whisky bottle sets at Gullivers. Is it awful? Yes, but in the very best way. Do not expect to feel good about this decision in the morning. Brick Bar has ska performances and a fun Thai crowd, right on Khao San Road -- if you like ska, this is a great evening ender. Late show starts at midnight. Feeling like discussing the elemental beingness of travelling? Time for buckets. Take your pick of street side bars up and down the strip.

And finally, the best thing to do after a crawl is to sit down for feed. There is food all over Khao San Rd, but the best late night street food is at the intersection of Rambutri and Tani Roads (Rambutri is immediately north of Khao San, walk to the right and follow it around to where it meets Tani to find the street stalls). Sit down to plates of spicy southern curry, fried chicken or sticks of grilled meat. Eat, eat, and eat until you remember where you are staying. Don't forget the water kids -- it's hot out there. Chok dee (good luck)!

Zoom 4 Zoom 5: Soi Wang Lang, Wang Lang Market, Siriraj. T: (02) 226 1745. Open daily 17:00-0:00.
Brick Bar: 1/F, Buddy Lounge Bldg, 265 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 4702. Open daily 19:00-02:00.
Gulliver's Tavern: 2/2 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 1988. Open daily morning till late.

Tags: Chao Phraya, drinking, pubs, riverside

Easily one of the cheapest ways to eat in Bangkok, and in Thailand for that matter, is to pull up a chair at a streetside food stall selling ready-made Thai food served either on a plate, or in little plastic bags for takeaway. While you'll find all manner of Thai food served in this fashion, as in the photo below, Thai curry often takes centreplace.

So many chillies it melted the handle off.

Unless the vendor is smack bang in the middle of Khao San Road, most customers will be Thai, which means the taste -- and the chilli quota -- shouldn't be watered down for a foreign palate. The stall above is just a five-minute walk from Khao San Road on Rambuttri and when I ordered a plate of the green curry, the vendor warned me that it wasn't "farang-friendly". He was right, but that was exactly what I wanted.

Tags: curries, streetside food