Archive for the 'Night life' Category

Jan 24 2012

Bangkok versus Chiang Mai

The two cities that are arguably the most popular for travellers in Thailand, Bangkok and Chiang Mai, clearly have a lot to offer. How do they compare, in a nutshell? (Yes, we know we're succumbing to some cliches here, but it's part of the fun...)

Chiang Mai's Chinatown: Street food for all.

The food
Chiang Mai:
Signature khao soi; Isaan papaya salad, spiced just how you like it. Bangkok: Juicy mangoes. Grilled prawns. Korean kimchi. Pad Thai. Sushi boats. Anything, anywhere, any hour of the night.

Bangkok, you so fancy.

The culture
Chiang Mai
: Farang-friendly to a fault; wheatgrass shots and blowzy dharma bums. Bangkok: A harsher collide between the developing world and global modernity. Burger Kings by time-worn wats.

The livestock of Chiang Mai

The pull
Chiang Mai:
Come for a few days to visit, get a teaching job, leave three years later. Bangkok: Permanent expats in business suits; sweaty tourists passing through.

The night life
Chiang Mai:
  Happy hour by the Ping River, laidback evenings and all-night parties. Bangkok: Where Asia comes to party, British pubs and chilled-out lounges, exclusive clubs and cover fees.

Careful with your life when crossing streets in Bangkok.

The locale
Chiang Mai:
Forty minutes from limestone caves and outdoor adventures. A weekend trip to the Burmese border. Bangkok: Two hours to Kanchanburi and Khao Yai, three hours to Koh Samet and Hua Hin, a plane ride to anywhere.

The shopping
Chiang Mai:
Hilltribe pompoms and pillow cases, weekend bazaars and cultural festivals. Bangkok: Chatuchak craziness. Malls and malls and more malls. International brands, with Western styles.

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Oct 21 2011

Halloween in Bangkok, 2011

The Bangkok floods have put quite a dampener on the month of October; as we write it seems Bangkok has been put on disaster alert so things are not looking altogether optimistic. We're going to be upbeat though and still list what's on for our favourite satanic holiday, coming up in only 10 days. Some foolish souls might assume Bangkok doesn't mark Halloween; but these are probably the same people who put on a witch hat and call it a “costume”.

See below for where to get your spooks on if all is well and dry in the capital at the end of the month. (And if you're by chance heading to Singapore to escape the waters, here's what's on for Halloween there.)

My flood costume. Too soon?

October 28, 2011
Voodoo Village Black Magic Night

3 DJs, a snake show, and a live African drum circle?

Koi
26 Sukhumvit Soi 20
T: (02) 258 1590
20:00 onward
Free entry

Monster
Ghosts and goblins on repeat

Narz
112 Sukhumvit Soi 23
T: (02) 258 4805
20:30-05:00
500 baht, includes two drinks

October 29, 2011
Twilight Halloween Bash

For closeted Twilight fans to dress up like Edward Cullen

Café de Bangkok
Opposite Ekkamai 21
T: (08) 3859 3708
19:00–02:30
500 baht, includes finger food and open bar from 19:00-22:30

*Vampire coincidence! A Twilight party will also be taking place at VIE Hotel a day earlier

Betwitched This Halloween
Be a sexy witch or wizard, win a blackberry

Witch’s Tavern
Sukhumvit 55
T: (02) 391 9791
18:00–01:00
Free entry, free pizza

Wobble Halloween
Bass and drums for your holiday

Club Culture
Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd
T: (08) 9497 8422
21:30 onwards
150 baht, includes one drink

Glow Halloween Party
Costumes and cocktails

Glow Nightclub
96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23
T: (02) 291 4446
22:00-04:00
300 baht, includes one drink

October 30, 2011
Rumble in the Jungle

Haunted forest where ladies get in free

Q Bar
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11
T: (02) 252 3274
20:00 onwards
500 baht, includes two drinks
Free entry for women until 24:00

October 31, 2011

Yelloween Party
Keep it classy on the only day of the year you don’t have to

Balcony’s Lounge at the Intercontinental
973 Ploenchit Road
T: (02) 656 0444
19:00–01:00
1,200 baht, includes one glass of Veuve clicquot and two glasses of Ketel One Martini

New Orleans Voodoo
A little taste of Louisiana in Bangkok

Bed Supperclub
26 Sukhumvit Soi 11
T: (02) 651 3537
19:30–03:00
1,000 baht, includes one drink

*Note: there is no haunted BTS. Sorry.

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Sep 27 2011

Adhere the 13th: Bangkok's best blues bar?

Published by under Night life

Sometimes discovery happens the hard way, requiring a lifetime of slogging through a city, measuring and weighing and comparing to see if you've found the one true thing you have been after. And sometimes it happens the easy way. Possibly when you are just the tiniest bit tipsy after drinking beers and complaining about live music options (although there are some good ones), a friend leads you to the one true thing you needed. And it's perfection.

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar, packed on a Saturday night.

I was led to Adhere the 13th, and I'm happy to say I've finally filled a hole in my heart: a good place for the blues in Bangkok.

Located on Samsen Rd close to Samsen Canal, Adhere the 13th is a shophouse blues bar. The narrow space has been broken up into a bar in the back with high tables along the side, and tiny tables and low chairs in the front. Basically, it's so small you walk through the band to get to the bathroom. The staff is quirky, and there is such a fun, inclusive vibe you can't help but have a good time. The walls are covered with album covers, road signs and musical tchotkes of every type. With the lights down low and the music wailing, it has exactly the honky-tonk, friendly dive-bar feeling that is missing from so many live music venues in Bangkok.

At Adhere the 13th, the crowd might be friendly, but it's the music that you come for. Last Saturday there were echos of Muddy Waters, BB King and John Lee Hooker, and that was before the main band took the stage. Even if you know nothing about blues, you'll want to know more by the time you leave. Mid week jam sessions are common with artists coming from other gigs, and on the weekends the house band is joined by guest vocalists, one-man guitar bands and others.

Wail on, brother.

Open daily from 18:00 to at least midnight (later on the weekends or a particularly happening evening), the house band "Bangkok Connection" plays nightly from 21:30 till midnight. The crowds flow onto the street Friday and Saturday night, so get here a bit early for a seat. A full drinks list is available, with cocktails running around 140 to 165 baht, or beers from 100 baht for a large bottle. A weekend grill menu is offered as well for the peckish punter, but really, everyone is here for the music. Tuck in.

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar
13 Samsen Rd
T: (08) 9769 4613
Open daily 18:00-midnight
Adhere is a short walk from the Khao San Rd area, or a 20-minute taxi ride from Siam Square.

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Sep 06 2011

Chao Phraya pub crawl: Part 2

Published by under Bars,Food,Khao San Road,Night life

If you remember part 1, we ended up on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya at ID Beer Bar on Khlong San Pier.

Time for some mild organisation, so get your A to Z. Walk back towards the pier, but turn right and go through the Khlong San market. Snacks, fried noodles, and grilled meats are available at the food stands on the right for those who need more solid sustenance. Take a cab from Khlong San Market to Wang Lang Market Pier (Tha Talad Wang Lang in Thai), a few clicks north along the Chao Phraya. Facing the entrance to the pier, turn right and walk along the small alley to the first right -- there on the corner is Zoom 4 Zoom 5, the strangest river bar along the Chao Phraya.

River views from Zoom 4 Zoom 5. Just the name makes this place great.

Up the stairs is the terrace, with a great view of the Grand Palace lit up in the velvet blackness of the riverside. Order food and drinks from the counter; you'll have to mix your own drinks and retrieve your own ice here (there's a station for ice, glasses and utensils near the counter) as it's strictly bar service. After a sufficient number of refreshments, it's time to cross back to Bangkok proper. Take the cross river ferry towards Thammasat University and walk straight up the street from Wang Lang Pier.

Turn left when you reach Sanam Luang (a big open oval field). Turn right. Continue around the oval, crossing the street at Ratchadamri Road, and continue away from the circle, towards the Democracy Monument, where you'll find Khao San Road off to your left. Success!

Proceed, crawling with caution; it's decision time upon reaching Khao San Road. Will this evening end in dancing? Will it end in bonding/weeping over buckets filled with cheap liquor? Will it end with some plates of spicy Thai food to clear heads and inflame tongues? The end of the crawl can only be a game time decision, but there are options.

For terrible music (which let's be honest, sometimes is the best), head to the Rambutri end of Khao San for dancing, revelry, and whisky bottle sets at Gullivers. Is it awful? Yes, but in the very best way. Do not expect to feel good about this decision in the morning. Brick Bar has ska performances and a fun Thai crowd, right on Khao San Road -- if you like ska, this is a great evening ender. Late show starts at midnight. Feeling like discussing the elemental beingness of travelling? Time for buckets. Take your pick of street side bars up and down the strip.

And finally, the best thing to do after a crawl is to sit down for feed. There is food all over Khao San Rd, but the best late night street food is at the intersection of Rambutri and Tani Roads (Rambutri is immediately north of Khao San, walk to the right and follow it around to where it meets Tani to find the street stalls). Sit down to plates of spicy southern curry, fried chicken or sticks of grilled meat. Eat, eat, and eat until you remember where you are staying. Don't forget the water kids -- it's hot out there. Chok dee (good luck)!

Zoom 4 Zoom 5: Soi Wang Lang, Wang Lang Market, Siriraj. T: (02) 226 1745. Open daily 17:00-0:00.
Brick Bar: 1/F, Buddy Lounge Bldg, 265 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 4702. Open daily 19:00-02:00.
Gulliver's Tavern: 2/2 Khao San Rd. T: (02) 629 1988. Open daily morning till late.

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Sep 05 2011

Chao Phraya pub crawl: Part 1

Published by under Bars,Food,Night life

Nothing says prudent living like combining drinking and boats. There are several great places along Bangkok's Chao Phraya for a beer, some gap gleam (food that goes with drinking) and a river view. The five-star hotels clustered around Saphan Taksin offer some lovely (and pricey) watering holes, but a pub crawl requires being out there with the people. The Chao Phraya Express Ferry stops operating too soon to be a transport option up and down the river, but the cross river ferries operate until 23:00, so combined with some taxis, you've got an evening planned. If you follow the route outlined today and tomorrow, you'll end up on Khao San Road where you can continue drinking until the end of time.

Drinking and boats: together at last.

Start off at Balco on the Bangkok side of the river, which is located on the top floor of the River City Shopping Complex. It's a breezy, open balcony with spectacular views of the river traffic and the glittering buildings and wat complexes strung along the banks. Drinks are reasonable, and this is a mellow place that would be easy to get bogged down in. But carry on!

Nightime view from Balco of the Chao Phraya.

Take the cross river ferry from the River City pier to Khlong San (serious pub crawlers can grab a traveller from the Tops market on the ground floor of the mall). Turn left as you come across the gang plank and continue past the Hilton to Be My Guest, a laid back outdoor place where it's time for food, and plenty of it. While there are better restaurants in Bangkok, Be My Guest has gap gleam down pretty well -- don't miss the air-dried pork (moo daat diao). After several quaffs at Be My Guest, pay up and head out left back past the ferry pier to Id Beer Bar on the right. Sit at one of their slightly lower rent tables, and have a beer, and look at the river, and sigh about your remarkable good luck in being here.

Now this is a fine place to end your pub crawl if you want, but join us for more riverside drinks tomorrow in part II.

Balco: 5/ F, River City Shopping Complex, Charoen Krung Road. T: (08) 4928 6161. Open Tue-Sun 19:00 - 02:00.
Be My Guest Bar
: 217 Charoennakron Plaza, Charoennakron Road. T: (02) 437 2653. Open daily 15:00-0:00.
Id Beer Bar
: Khlong San Pier, Charoennakron Road. No telephone. Open daily 15:00-0:00.

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Aug 30 2011

Visiting Bangkok on a budget

Enjoying Bangkok on a budget is very possible, and my favourite part? There's no need to sacrifice comfort or delicious meals. Compared to Southeast Asian cities like Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok is a bargain. However, if your point of reference is the rest of Thailand, or neighbouring countries, Bangkok starts to look a little steep. Taking a few minutes to plot out your day will help to save baht in the long run. Here's what you might like to consider.

Now this is the way to snack.

Eat local. A big way to pilfer away money is on pricey food. Avoid a gamble on a not-so-tasty mid-priced restaurant and go for some good old-fashioned street eats. Street food is everywhere and it's delicious -- don't be afraid of it! Look for a stall that seems popular and you will not be led astray. Local markets as well as food courts, which can be found in every mall, are other great places for affordable grub. And snacks? Opt for fresh fruit from street vendors.

Plan your lodging. I don't mean MONTHS in advance but plan at least far enough in the future that you're not wandering the sweaty streets looking for any place of refuge you can find. There are tons of great hostels for under 500 baht a night, and if you book in advance you can guarantee that at least that part of the equation is taken care of. The longer you wait to book, the more likely it is that the cheap places will be all filled up meaning you'll either end up somewhere overpriced or, worse, somewhere cage-like.

Avoid pricey drinks with seductive stirrers.

Pre game. Go back to your university roots and pre game. While alcohol at a bar might be a little pricey, booze from somewhere like a 7-eleven is extremely cheap. Save on the bar tab and grab a six-pack at the convenience store. You can't bring it into the bar but you can save money by drinking up before you get there. (Or: just don't drink!)

Not all bus rides will be this adorable.

Take public transport. The MRT and BTS are both very simple and worth using if they go near your destination. Unfortunately, these two modes of mass-transit don't go to all of Bangkok's must-see spots. If the MRT and BTS are out I'd recommend the bus. The BMTA has a great site where you can plug in your destination to find out which buses you need to take. Additionally, save on coming in from the airport by hitching a ride on the very affordable Airport Link.

Shop at markets. Whether it's Chatuchak or just the stall on the corner, shopping at markets is the way to go. Avoid pricey malls and look for something cheap and roadside. With some (polite) bargaining, prices may go even lower than the vendor's first figure.

You don't need to pay big bucks to see a big Buddha. Wat Indraviharn is a freebie.

Free sites. Many of Bangkok's sites charge admission, but an equal number of under-the-radar temples and sites let you take in the scene for free. Check out spots like Wat Rachabophit or Khlong Toei market for a taste of local life without the price tag.

Dress the part. At the end of the day Thailand is still a very Buddhist country and Bangkok, while modern, very much respects the Buddhist laws of decency. If you are going to a holy site, like Wat Phra Kaew or Wat Pho, then make sure to be well covered up. It will save you on the clothing rental deposit.

If you give your trip to Bangkok a bit of forethought and have a little patience it is possible to spend between 600 and 700 baht per day, or a little more than US$20, including hostels. If you want a little cushion for some mini-splurges then 1,000 baht a day, or US$30, should be a piece of cake. You won't be living large but you will be living just fine.

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Jul 14 2011

Hidden charms of Bangkok's Khlong San Pier

Published by under Food,Night life,Shopping

Khlong San Pier along the Chao Phraya holds some fun and hidden secrets. Two restaurants with good music, cold beer, and great views of the boats passing by on the river flank the riverside on either side of the pier. Be My Guest and Id Beer Bar are both great spots to chill out; office workers and students frequent these bank side boozers on their way home, settling in for some good food (especially from Be My Guest) and some live music. From the pier, facing the bank, Be My Guest is located to the left and ID Beer Bar to the right.

Continuing straight from the pier is Khlong Plaza, a warren of stands selling trendy clothes, jeans, accessories, shoes, and everything you might need to look like a hipster. Prices are good, and you're bound to find some excellent products made by famous designers like Gocci, or Fandi, and everyone's favorite Louit Vuitton. Along the back side of the market are stalls selling clothes by small designers, often manning the stalls themselves.

I'll the the Gocci bag. This is real, right?

When all of the fashion has gotten to be too much, the north side of the market offers sustenance to the body with stands of all kinds selling fried and roasted chicken, noodles of every type, and even an open-air bakery selling pizzas and pastries (very Thai-style pastries -- hot dog with mayonnaise croissant, anyone? No? Well okay then.)

I'll take extra mayonnaise on my hot dog croissant. Just like Proust used to have.

To get to Khlong San, take the cross-river ferry from Si Phraya Cross River Ferry Pier on the Bangkok side. Si Phraya is a stop on the Chao Phraya Express ferry, serving Saphan Taksin BTS in the south, and Chinatown and Banglamphu/Khao San Road in the north. The cross-river service uses a different pier -- follow the signs to the cross river ferry. While not exactly ethical, you can also catch the Millennium Hilton's river ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin -- the Hilton pier is right next to Khlong San Pier -- which brings you across the river as well. Just be ready to look like you should be staying at the Hilton.

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May 19 2011

Ladyboy cabaret at Calypso

Published by under Night life

I believe it's  safe to say that Bangkok comes with a bit of a reputation. You tell someone you live in Bangkok and their immediate follow-up questions involve ping pong shows, ladyboys and the red light district. The truth of the matter is these after-dark attractions do not factor into my daily life here -- nor the lives of many other foreigners. So, in an effort to have a taste of the stereotype, I headed to Calypso Cabaret to spend an evening sipping bad cocktails at one of the infamous ladyboy shows.

That's me in the centre.

Calypso lived up to its hype and what ensued was an absolute hoot. The one-hour show, in the basement of the Asia Hotel, was packed and far less dodgy than I had anticipated. As the website promised there were feathers and long legs galore as well as a whole lot of lip-syncing featuring everything from Broadway standards to Korean pop.

One of those spectator silhouettes is a baby.

Calypso also happens to come with some history. Running since 1988, it is somewhat of an establishment on the Bangkok ladyboy scene. What's refreshing about this show, and other similar cabarets, is that you get a taste of the famed Thailand after dark without the seediness of nearby Nana or the depressing side of Patpong. I would even venture to say that Calypso is somewhat family friendly. All the performers stay relatively clothed and I kid you not there was a baby in the audience.

Post-show glamour shots.

The performances range from hilarious to ho-hum, but the over-the-top evening never takes itself too seriously.

After the show stick around to take photos with the performers, although do be prepared for them to look better than you. Reservations recommended.

Calypso Cabaret
Basement of the Asia Hotel, 296 Phayathai Road (Ratchathewi BTS)
T: (02) 653 3960
Twice nightly at 20:15, 21:45
Adult 1,200 baht, child 600 baht (or discounted price adult 900 baht, child 600 baht if you book online at least three days ahead)


 

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