Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi airport was supposed to catapult the Thai capital into the ranks of Singapore and Hong Kong when it comes to fancypants airports, but just six years after opening it's showing signs of serious overcrowding, with complaints of hours-long immigration queues bouncing around Twitter and other social media with increasingly frequency. Too many passengers? Too few immigration staff? Both, it seems.

Take a number. Take a number just to join a queue, that is.

Bangkok Airways now recommends passengers departing from Suvarnabhumi allow three hours ahead of departure to ensure they get through immigration -- from the translation of their note (posted on March 13) it appears they mean passengers should allow three hours to get through passport control alone -- not their complete check-in procedure.

There's a lot of debate and confusion about what is actually going on at the airport, but it appears passport control booths have now been reduced in number from 80 to 50 while refurbishing work is carried out (refurbishing includes installing automatic passport scanners). Delays were already notorious, which immigration officials said was due to under-staffing, but until April 11 when work is completed (believe that and you'll believe anything!), conditions risk being truly horrendous. Get there early!

In an intriguing addendum, airport immigration has called in 40 female riot control officers from "Sweet Company" to assist with passport controls. Guess you have to commend Thai police for actually having an all-female unit even if they use patronising nicknames? Anyway we hope they understand the mind bogglingly complicated Thai visa regulations.

And in another twist, the actual impact of which still seems very unclear, Thailand's prime minister last week ordered that all "low-cost airlines" move to the former main international airport Don Muang, in another bid to reduce the congestion at Suvarnabhumi -- there's some debate about what this means here.

Tags: suvarnabhumi airport

It's not what you normally want to think about on holiday, but sometimes you just need to see the doctor. Dengue fever, infected wounds, and motorcycle muffler burns seem to be unintended souvenirs for some in the kingdom. Luckily, Bangkok is an oasis of world-class medical care. Expatriates in the region normally choose Bangkok, Hong Kong or Singapore for their medical needs, with Bangkok being the least expensive with high standards of care.

That's a thumbs up from Bumrungrad hospital.

Emergency care in the provinces is often competent but basic -- Phuket and Chiang Mai both have excellent hospitals, but for anything complicated patients will be transferred to Bangkok. Travellers to Thailand should always, always have medical travel insurance. Most hospitals will deal directly with your insurance company and ensure payment, however you may have to pay an estimated deposit before service will be given (even if you are ill -- it's just part of the way things are done here).

All international-standard hospitals accept credit card payment. If you are insane and do not have medical travel insurance, you will be required to pay for treatment. It pays to shop around: just because your condition has been stabilised at one hospital doesn't mean you need to continue treatment there. Call around and get quotes for treatment from other hospitals before slapping down your credit card -- it can save thousands of baht (and often your current hospital will make a counter offer -- it can seem distasteful, but it is the way it is done, so be ready for it).

The three best hospitals in Bangkok in terms of service, value for money, and levels of English spoken are as follows:

Bumrungrad Hospital
33 Sukhumvit Soi 3, Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 667 1000
Bumrungrad is equivalent to a five-star hotel, with movies on demand, room service, and some some of the best medical care possible. It is possibly the most expensive hospital in Thailand (although a lot depends on treatment required), but compared to Western prices it is still often quite inexpensive.

BNH Hospital
9/1, Convent Rd
T: (02) 686 2700
BNH has a convenient Silom location and excellent services. Its travellers clinic is an excellent resource for people transiting to undeveloped areas of Asia who might need vaccinations and malaria medicine.

Samitivej Hospital
133 Sukhumvit 49
T: (02) 711 8181
Samitivej is located near Thong Lor, and has excellent standards. Prices tend to be lower than Bumrumgrad or BNH, but quality of care is not.

Tags: BNH, Bumrungrad, dengue, hospitals, malaria, medical care, Samitivej

"Language is the road map of a culture. It tells you where its people come from and where they are going."
-- Rita Mae Brown

This is how you count up to 100.

Learning Thai is the best way to understand Thailand -- the very essence of Thai relationships is expressed in the way language is used. The influence of the central Thai dialect on regional languages, the pull of the countryside, the understanding of every relationship within the context of a village are all central to the Thai way of doing things. As a language, Thai has some interesting (read: maddening) structural challenges including a script wholly unrelated to roman characters, tones that change the meaning of words radically, and an array of special words used to count things, but as an entryway to a culture learning Thai is really satisfying.

Thais are thrilled when foreigners can speak even a small amount of Thai and if you can read and write the script everyone will act like you just invented electricity or the rice noodle. Some of that is flattery, some of it is fawning, but most of it is genuine appreciation that you took the time to learn some Thai -- even among long-term expats speaking Thai is rare. And if you travel to some of the more out of the way places in Thailand, the language really will be practically useful.

The schools below are ones that Travelfish.org has experience with, but there are many others that are reviewed at Women Learning Thai, an excellent Thai language learning resource. Also check out @ajarnpasa on Twitter for fun short lessons aimed at improving intermediate Thai, but with cultural relevance that all learners of Thai can appreciate.

Most of these school have fixed-term lessons (three-four hours per day, five days a week for a month, for example), but all can arrange private lessons or customised classes which can be perfect for people who want to study for a week or so in Bangkok before exploring Thailand.

Unity Thai Language
Unity Thai's month-long intensive courses are a great deal, costing around 6,500 baht for 15 hours a week for four weeks. Their teachers are professional and have good attitudes, as well as clear tone and grammar correction. They can arrange private lessons for short-time students.
18F Times Square Building
246 Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 653 1538
info@utl-school.com

Jentana Thai
Jentana is more expensive than some other options, however their private classes catering to people who wish to study intensively for a short time come highly recommended.
5/8 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 260 6138
jentana@loxinfo.co.th

Pro Language
Pro Language is a professional school with two branches in Bangkok -- classes represent good value.
Siam Square Location: Siam Kit Building 6F, Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd
T: (02) 251 4631
siam@prolanguage.co.th
Asoke Location: 10 – 01A 10F Times Square Building, 246 Sukhumvit Rd
T: (02) 250 0072
prolanguage@prolanguage.co.th

Tags: language, schools, Thai language

Chatuchak market (pronounced jat-u-jak), or "JJ" for short, is packed with items to buy -- from refurbished vintage dresses through to Yorkshire terriers and quite a bit in between. JJ is not a made-for-tourists destination; gaggles of locals make a pilgrimage to this outdoor market each weekend.

To avoid JJ fainting, eat here.

For some, JJ is a shopping heaven, and for others, it's a consumer hell. No matter what the season is in central Bangkok, somehow JJ seems to be 10 degrees hotter and 10 times more crowded. JJ is a short walk away from the BTS and the MRT, but once you're there, things become more difficult. A leisurely shopping stroll can start to feel like you're trapped in a maze of leather shoes and ceramic bowls, yet perpetually distracted by more things to buy.

To preserve your sanity and your shopping stamina, you need a game plan. Here, dear readers, it is.

Start with a map
The Nancy Chandler map of Bangkok from 2009 is one of the best, and includes a hand-drawn and painstakingly detailed map of JJ's 27 sections and stalls. It's best to use this map as a reference to the general areas. Don't spend your day searching for one specific stall just to bypass all the rest, as the stalls change often and a lot of the products are sold by multiple vendors. JJ's own official map is numerically mind-boggling, but categories like "Clothing & Accessories",  "Amulets", and the ambiguously fun "Odds & Ends" are colour-coded.

Choose your entrance
Once you know which section you'd like to go to, pick an entrance that will get you closest rather than walking through the market to get to your destination. I find the stalls right near the Mo Chit BTS entrance tend to be mostly cheap items targetted at tourists and are swamped, so I walk around the periphery of the market to Gate 3 for trendy clothes or take the MRT to Kamphaengphet.

Remember to eat
Take periodic snack and water breaks, as there's plenty of street-style food to enjoy. Just be careful with the shrimp fried in deep vats of oil, as it may slow down your shopping high.

Watch your wallet
Narrow walkways, hordes of people and shopping bags make for a perfect scenario to get pickpocketed. Besides watching out for the typical shopping scams, keep your money safe and be discreet when pulling out the big bills.

Keep track
Found a necklace you just have to have but don't have the money? Don't expect you'll ever remember where you were. Always make a note of the stall number and section, or ask the vendor for a business card. Many of the vendors also have satellite shops in places like Terminal 21, so don't fret if you can't come back to JJ.

Come early or come late
Avoid the crowds and the sweat. The market officially opens at 9:00, though keep in mind vendors may not be fully set up until 9:30 or 10:00. If you come late, you may get a good end-of-the-day deal. The market closes at 18:00; while some vendors start packing up around 15:00, others stay open well past the official closing time.

Oh, lacy.

Chatuchak Weekend Market is officially open 09:00-18:00, Sat and Sun.
BTS: Mo Chit
MRT: Suan Chatuchak or Kamphaengphet

Tags: Chatuchak, markets

Bangkok can seem to be a world within itself; but although the British pubs and ice skating rinks may suggest otherwise, the capital city is, indeed, still in Thailand. Hoards of Westerners, known as "farang" in Thai, travel in and out of the city daily, and many have made Bangkok their permanent residence. Farangs are a fixed part of the urban landscape, and Bangkokians are accustomed to foreigner gaffes and snafus. However, it is important to remember that proper etiquette is appreciated in Thai culture, and Thais will often be too polite to point out if you are offending them. On the other hand, any small gesture, even a misguided one, to pay respect to Thai culture will probably be well-received. Faux pas can generally easily be avoided; in a nutshell, here's how.

Yes, that is in fact a tourist walking into a temple in a bikini.

Smiles: When in doubt, smile! Smiling is a universal language, and a bit of a cultural habit in Thailand.

Wais: Foreigners are not always expected to initiate a wai, but you can return one by slightly bowing with your hands pressed together sort of like a prayer. Status is a very important (and complicated) component of Thai culture, but in the most blunt terms, one should only offer wais to those of equal or greater social status.

Keep it cool: Mai pen rai is an expression that pretty much sums up the Thai cultural temperament. Don’t worry, no worries, never mind. Even with the hot days, hordes of people and tourist scams, it is never okay to yell or show anger in public. You will embarrass yourself and everyone around you.

Your head: The head is sacred, even in Bangkok. Never touch or pass something over someone’s head.

Your feet: Feet are considered unclean. Do not ever use your feet to point or to move an object. Be careful to never point your feet at someone else or show them your soles. Be particularly careful in temples and do not point your feet towards any Buddha images.

Your shoes: Leave those smelly things at the door. In someone’s home and even in many stores and massage parlours, you should take off your shoes before entering. Look for a shoe rack or follow the lead of patrons before you so you know what to do.

PDA: Public displays of affection are not encouraged in public. If you look closely, you will barely see Thai couples in public even touching hands. Be careful touching someone of the opposite sex, even if you are on friendly terms. As for lovers, save your naughty business for your hotel room.

Dress: What to wear in Bangkok is easier to figure out than you think. Dress for summer in the city, if you were planning to meet your in-laws for the first time. By some miracle of hairspray, ironing, and makeup, Thais manage to look dressed to the nines and always fresh despite the traumatically humid weather. For women, skirts and shorts are generally fine, but having your shoulders or cleavage exposed will be met with some uncomfortable glances.  Remember, Bangkok is not the beach, so cover that bikini top right up.

Temples: Temples, such as Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Rachabophit, have strict dress codes that must be followed. Cover your arms and your legs. Take off your shoes. Never touch a monk. As we mentioned already, don't point your feet at or touch any religious statues. Use your best judgment and follow the lead of any Thai visitors.

Photographs: This might seem obvious, but it needs to be said. Something about tourists looking at the world through a camera lens can make them forget all sense of courtesy and ethics.  Do not take pictures of people without asking. It is rude. You would not want your photograph taken by a stranger without permission. You would probably never go up to a group of children on the street or a food vendor in your home country and just snap a shot. Will the photograph ever be worth making someone feel like a spectacle?

The Royal family: Pay your respects; it’s the law. At movie theatres, BTS stations or even Chatuchak Market, you must stop what you are doing and stand up when the Song for His Majesty the King or Thai national anthem is played. Never ever damage or draw on his picture.

At the BTS: Public transportation in Thailand is a very civil affair. People form small queues on the platform while waiting for the next train to arrive. Like most cities, people (hopefully) get up to offer their seats to pregnant women, the elderly, and those carrying a lot of shopping bags after a big day at Terminal 21.

Tipping: While tipping is not mandatory for any service, you can certainly tip for a job well done. In touristy areas and in the hospitality industry, there seems to be a general expectation for some kind of tip, but it's still up to your own discretion. Now more than ever, restaurants are including a service charge in the bill, so watch for it before you add on more.

Tags: bts, etiquette, faux pas, feet, proper dress, temples, the King, tipping, wai

Your flight is in three hours, and your suitcase is empty. What should you bring ? The short answer is, nothing, as Bangkok has everything you could possibly need. Hazelnut gelato and Prada shoes. Immemorial temples, 24-hour pizza huts. But some things are easier to find or cheaper to buy at home. Besides the typical packing list (Socks. Passport. Husband), here are some insider tips on what to bring to Bangkok that you may not want to purchase here.

"White Impress" Whitening soap. Uncomfortable.

Moisturiser/Cream: It might be confusing at first, but most moisturisers, creams, and even soap in Thailand contain a whitening agent. If you do not want your skin bleached a pasty white (I’d recommend no, those chemicals are nasty), bring your preferred products from home. Western chains like Boots are located around Bangkok with standard pricing, but if you won't have time to shop, bring your own. (And even there you will find some of the products are catered towards Thai consumers with whitening ingredients -- make sure you check labels!)

Deodorant: Something is rotten in the state of deodorant. No, but it will be harder to find anti-perspirant without strange chemicals, smells and bleaching solution. Better bring it from home -- or be prepared to experiment -- as you will need it in the heat.

Sunscreen: Sunscreen is available here, but the brands that you are used to trusting for skin protection will be difficult to find, or jacked up in price.

Condoms:  Bangkok, a city of peep-shows and go-go bars, has an ample supply of condoms, and they can be conveniently purchased in the checkout line of any 7-eleven. But for those who think they might be… well-endowed... you may wish to bring your x-large condoms from home.

Small to average size condoms at 7-eleven. Discrimination!

Tampons: Thais haven't really adopted tampons with the same gusto as we have in the West. While they are sold in some stores, they are ridiculously expensive, or only of the O.B. self-applicator variety (no fun!).

M.I.A. tampons.

Batteries: Batteries are available in Bangkok, but some say they are poorer quality and run out fast -- they are cheap though. If you have room in your luggage, you might want to bring some just to be safe.

Clothes for anyone above size S: Look, I’m not telling you that you're fat. It’s just that clothing on the street is made for those small and svelte in stature, and it’s difficult to find anything that fits you if you are above five feet. For women, Thai clothing tends to be either granny-length long or crotch level short, with a prodigal amount of bows, lace, and other exciting frills. It's hard to know what is appropriate for foreigners to wear in Bangkok. For men, the shirts are made for slender shoulders and probably tailored tighter than you are used to. Terminal 21 or Chatuchak Market are great places to find men’s clothing at a “normal” size, though it takes a bit of sleuthing.

Thailand has a funny thing called “free-size”, which is basically one-size-fits-a-small-population-of-the-universe. While all of the brand names you might find at home are available in Bangkok, the prices are jacked up for the international market. The clothing on the street, though cheap, is often poor quality, so if you do plan on purchasing a dress or two, don’t expect them to last long.

English-language magazines and books: Again, these are available in Bangkok, but they come at a hefty price and there might not be the selection you are used to. If you need your New Yorker by your side at all times, better bring it from home. It also might be a fun experience to pick up a Thai magazine from any newsstand; you won’t be able to understand a thing, but the pictures are worth a look.

Electronics: Bangkok is not always the place to buy fancy electronics on a whim. Do your research and make sure what you are buying is authentic. Some report cheaper prices in Hong Kong but mileage will vary depending on the good concerned, and paying $200 to fly to Hong Kong to save $70 on a camera isn't too wise. Even times when you think what you are buying is real (inside a nicely air-conditioned store with a wide selection and helpful salespeople), it may be of poor quality and from the gray market. You can look up the serial code of the product just to be sure. If you are willing to take the risk or need a cheap cell phone, you can still head to MBK for used yet usable devices.

Tissues: Now, most people would not feel they need to bring tissue paper overseas. But just a fair warning, the “napkins” they offer at restaurants here are pitifully thin. They disintegrate in your hands. Be warned.

How pitiful!

Tags: condoms, shopping, tissues, what to bring to bangkok, what to bring to thailand, what to pack

In a fantastic departure from the way that nationalism (as a concept of nationhood, not a political system) was traditionally explained, Benedict Anderson posited that nations are nations because we, collectively, decided to believe in them as nations. It's easy to see the logic in that as you travel around Southeast Asia. While the ethnic differences between the Karen people from Burma and eastern Indonesian islanders are easy to spot, what exactly makes northern Thais and Laotians separate people? Or Malays and Sumatrans? The difference is that it was decided they were one or the other, and so they are.

Southeast Asia? Well, not technically. Yunnan province, China.

Southeast Asia's northern border bumps into China, but Southeast Asia doesn't really stop there. Take one look at the food, architecture, and language of people living in Yunnan or Guangxi and you'll see reflections of their southern neighbors. It's also a good opportunity to read Benedict Anderson's book, Imagined Communities, as many of his examples are about the region.

To explore the "imagined" China part of Southeast Asia from Bangkok, you'll need to sort out your visa. The Chinese embassy in Bangkok is on Ratchadaphisek Soi 3, at MRT Phra Ram 9. The visa office is across the soi from the embassy itself in the AA Building. Use Exit 1 from Phra Ram 9 MRT Station and turn left down Soi 3. The entrance is on your right a short distance into the soi.

Visa office, embassy of China, Bangkok.

The visa office is open for applications from 09:00-11:30 and for collection from 15:00-16:00 for collection. Visa forms are available upon arrival, or can be downloaded beforehand. The application requires one passport-sized photo (two if you are American). Normal processing takes four business days and costs 1,000 baht for Thai citizens, 1,100 baht for non-Thais, and a hefty 4,560 baht for Americans. Double-entry and multiple-entry visas are also available (double entry +1,350 baht, multiple entry +2,000 baht) as is expedited visa processing (two days +800 baht, one day +1,200 baht).

If you are American, you might want to consider applying for a year-long multiple-entry visa, as all visas are the same price for American citizens due to reciprocal visa pricing, no matter how many entries or the length of validity. Application and pick up is efficient and quick, but you might want to get there when the office opens as it gets increasingly busy as 11:30 approaches.

Tags: China, visas

With near saturation media coverage of the flooding in Thailand and particularly Bangkok, an increasingly common refrain among either those stuck here or abroad is "How can I help?" Here are some suggestions on how you can do your little bit to help Thailand get through the current crisis, or, if you're arriving over the coming months, help with the clean up.

Good Samaritans.

First and foremost, don't completely cancel your trip to Thailand

As with the 2004 Asian tsunami, the flooding and the devastation that has followed it has affected only certain parts of the country and much of Thailand remains bone dry and safe for travel. After the 2004 tsunami many cancelled their trips to Thailand even when they were not planning to visit the areas affected, and this meant a double blow -- the second being economic. If there is any time when the small, family-run guesthouses needed your business and support, this is it.

Yes, a prolonged stay in Bangkok wouldn't be the wisest move, but as a transit hub to drier places, Bangkok is still operational for now. Don Muang, the second airport, is closed, but Suvarnabhumi is operating as normal, though be aware that the Singaporean Ministry of Foreign Affairs has just advised its citizens to fly out, fearing the airport may need to close. The Thai government has repeatedly insisted it can protect Suvarnabhumi, and the Singaporean government does tend to be conservative in its warnings. If you are alarmed about flying into Bangkok, Thailand does play host to several international airports, so you don't necessarily need to come via the capital.

For now, Ayutthaya and surrounds remain a disaster area, but much of the rest of Thailand is in business and waiting to greet you.

Return visitor? Get in touch

If you've been to Thailand before, chances are you've spent some time in Bangkok. If you hit it off well with the guesthouse you stayed at, drop them a line, or contact any friends you made. Perhaps they need help. If they don't, perhaps they know someone who does. The point we're trying to make is that the best way to help (unless you have a private fleet of 10,000 boats to help push the water out) is going to be super localised. Where better to help than at the place you stayed at last trip?

First time to Thailand and want to help?

Sandbagging and packing emergency supplies are activities non-Thais can help with and are needed across the city. While there have been some reports of an over-supply of volunteers, we can't imagine, given the current circumstances, one can have too many people filling sandbags -- though obviously, sometimes the best thing you can do is stay out of the way, so if it's crowding up, ask whether you can head somewhere else or take the day off.

As of Wednesday night, volunteers were being sought at Suvarnabhumi for sandbagging (er, see above about fears of the airport closing); get there by taking the Airport Link then the shuttle bus B line to the end (here's how it looks). Don Muang's Terminal 3 was earlier a volunteer rallying point but was shut due to floods in the area; volunteers headed instead yesterday to Rama IX Royal Park. You can also help out at the Thai Red Cross down near Lumpini Park and in front of the Dusit Thani on Silom Road. The Mirror Foundation has some good actionable information about volunteering.

Digging sand at Rama IX.

A sticky point on volunteering

As with the 2004 tsunami, the Thai government is insisting that volunteers have a work permit. The best way to avoid problems is to help in a very small scale, localised way that is unlikely to bring attention to yourself.

Given the government's lacklustre performance in handling the floods to date, one would assume that they're not going to be much more on the money when it comes to checking that all the volunteers filling sandbags to protect the Thai capital have work permits.

So just to be clear, officially speaking, you must have a work permit before you lift a finger to help save the capital from inundation -- so be sure to get it now -- before the Labour Department is flooded. (That's a joke).

Don’t forget your furry friends

Not only people are suffering from the floods. PicAPet4Home Rescue Centre now has a lot more creatures to care for in the wake of the flooding in Thailand's north. Tharinee Wipuchanin, the head of the rescue effort, has been quoted saying, “We think we owe something to the animals who depend on us. We cared for them in good times, and now we cannot throw them away in bad times. A life is a life.”

Thousands of animals have been rescued and are being housed in makeshift cages in temples and other public spaces. Others have been placed in the temporary homes of volunteer rescuers. Please donate dog and cat food, cages, and towels to keep the doggy tails wagging and the cats purring. Contact PicAPet4Home on (08) 9669 1690 for more information.

For stray animals you see on the street who may be in need of help, please track down a trained expert rather than trying to detain the animal yourself.

How not to help

This is a Thai, and largely Thai-made, disaster. Showing up and telling them how to fix it isn't going to be constructive. You're there to help. Unless you are a flood expert and have very specific training, just take a shovel and dig in. Don't head to badly flooded areas for a bit of search and rescue to "help".

Do you speak Thai? Do you have specific search and rescue training and experience? Do you have a boat? If not, steer clear of the badly affected areas and leave them to those who (hopefully) know what they are doing. If you do have that sort of experience, contact an organisation that can fit you into their professional network.

Gloves for the volunteers.

Places to donate

Flood relief efforts are underway, and in desperate need of more funding. If you are abroad and want to offer a helping hand, the best way to do so is by donating to trusted organisations that will guarantee your gift goes directly to helping flood victims and preparing for further flooding.

Try the following: Thai Red Cross Society (you can donate to them at any 7-eleven); Rajaprajanugroh Foundation (Royal Foundation for the Welfare of the People); and banks including Bangkok Bank and Siam Commercial Bank, which are accepting donations on behalf of a variety of charitable organisations -- ask for a complete list at the banks.

Photography courtesy of Lauren Willson, sandbagging volunteer and English teacher.

And thanks to Veena from The Nation (@Veen_NT on Twitter) for providing some of these details.

Tags: floods

It's a nasty surprise that most travellers only find out when they arrive, but bank-owned automatic teller machines (ATMs) in Thailand charge 150 baht per foreign transaction. The fee can add up to quite a hefty burden if you were planning on withdrawing money in small amounts, daily. It might not seem like much, but if you withdraw 10 times during a month-long trip to Thailand, that's enough for a domestic air ticket within the kingdom. Planning and scheming to the rescue!

Gimme your cash monies, baby.

There are three ways to beat the man at his own game here: a money belt packed with some cash, traveller's cheques, and using the few ATMs in Thailand that don't charge a fee. If cash is king in Asia (and it totally is: an angry, vindictive king), it also gets you the best rates when changing money. Bring a money belt (a small, discreet one that lays flat against your butt, secured under your pants -- not some fanny-pack monstrosity in which you also keep your camera, water bottle, and football) and pack it with as many large-denomination bills as you are comfortable carrying (US dollars are most widely accepted and have the best exchange rates, but sterling, yen, Aussie/Kiwi/Canadian/Singaporean dollars and euros are equally workable).

Traveller's cheques require a stamp duty of around 30 baht to be paid on each physical cheque at the bank, so larger denominations incur a smaller percentage fee (e.g., 1 x 100 dollar TC costs 30 baht to exchange, while 5 x 20 dollar TCs cost 150 baht to exchange). Often banks, civic organisations, auto clubs and others at home offer their members cheap or free traveller's checks. If you can find a good deal, it's a great way to carry money virtually risk free.

Everybody loves monies without a fee! Sugoi! (It's the Japanese word for cool. Get into it.)

Finally, there is a brand of ATM in Thailand and one foreign bank that offer their ATM services for free (they still earn a fee from converting your money to baht, so let's not feel too bad for them).

AEON is a Japanese credit company that has cash machines in large shopping centres (look for them in Central department stores, Robinsons, Big C Supercenters, and Tesco Lotus locations or see the handy locator function on their website). AEON ATMs accept all international cards on the Visa/Electon, Mastercard/Maestro, and JBC networks.

Citibank's headquarters is located steps from the Asoke BTS Station, and its branch in Silom is close to BTS Sala Daeng. Citibank also offers fee-free withdrawals to all foreign bank cards utilising the Visa or Mastercard networks.

I mean, we all know we are just going to waste the money saved on ATM fees on ethnic pants, a thousand sticks of grilled pork, and an ill-advised tattoo, but it might as well go towards making travelling memorable rather than improving a bank's bottom line.

Citibank Headquarter Branch: Interchange 21 Building, 399 Sukhumvit Rd. T: 1588
Citibank Silom Branch: 323 United Center Building, Silom Rd. T: 1588

Tags: AEON, ATMS, banks, cash, Citibank, sugoi, traveller's cheques

Whenever I get to a new city, I immediately realise there are about 10 million mysterious things going on. Confusion escalates as I suddenly remember I never looked up how to get around town or whether or not I could drink the tap water. To avoid that type of confusion when you roll into Bangkok, here are a few tid-bits that will hopefully answer those first day questions.

National pride

Here he is.

Thailand is a constitutional monarchy and the king and royal family treated with the utmost respect and reverence. How, you ask, will this play into your Thai day-to-day? Aside from the massive photographs of King Bhumibol Adulyadej that you see all over the country, if you happen to be in a public space at 08:00 or 18:00 you will hear the national anthem broadcast over loud speakers. When this song is played everyone stops what they are doing, stands up and freezes in place. Follow suit. It is particularly neat if this happens while you are caught in the middle of skytrain rush hour. No matter how quickly people are moving at 7:59, at 8:00 everything stops. Additionally, the king's anthem is played at the beginning of many activities, most notably before movies. You will be prompted but be sure to join the rest of the theatre as they stand in a show of respect.

Eat the ice!

Dead flies in a drink are far more worrisome than Bangkok ice.

Tap water is not recommended to drink in Thailand, but the number one thing to keep in mind is that no one drinks it, not even the locals. When at a restaurant or hotel you will never be served tap water, everything is always purified. Drink up!

Ice is also typically fine to drink, though you may want to be wary of the shaved ice you get at street stalls. While it's likely made from purified water, the ice can be transported in less than hygienic conditions. In general, any ice cubes round with a hole in the centre are fine.

Breaking bills 

When you get money from an ATM, it is incredibly annoyingly dispensed in 1,000 baht notes. If you try and use this 1,000 at a street stall, in a taxi, in a tuk tuk, it's a safe bet that they won't have change. 7-eleven will become your best friend for many reasons, but one is that they are the surest place to get change; in a blissfully air-conditioned environment to boot.

Public transport stops at midnight

Like Cinderella, this baby goes to bed at midnight.

The MRT and BTS are two of the most efficient and frugal ways to get around town. While they unfortunately don't travel to Khao San Road, if you are staying near Sukhumvit or Silom you will undoubtedly use them. They stop running at midnight and resume service at 06:00. If you are out on the town and need to get from place to place then taxis will be a safe option.

Obviously, these do not answer nearly all of your Bangkok worries but hopefully we're getting you started.

Tags: ice, king, monarchy, tap water