When visitors come to Thailand, they tend to have a mental to-do list, derived from overheard stories at hostels, or the pages of a guide: ride an elephant, pet a tiger, eat a ripe mango, lay on the beach, and of course, visit a floating market. All of these things are possible, but the problem is, everyone else has the same idea too. Take Damnoen Saduak floating market, a Venus flytrap for swarms of tourists and avoided by Thais. But luckily, Bangkok, once called the ‘Venice of the East’, has rivers and canals twisting through in curlicues, and with them, numerous floating markets, including Bang Khla, Amphawa and most recently Bang Nam Pheung.

Partially floating market

Bang Nam Pheung is relatively new to the floating market scene, and unlike Damnoen Saduak, actually caters to locals. Situated just south of Bangkok in Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan province, Bang Nam Pheung is a designated agricultural zone, and the floating market was created to showcase the products of the region and stimulate the local economy. What makes Bang Nam Pheung different than most tourist destinations within Thailand is its emphasis on sustainability and eco-awareness, opting for banana leaves and coconut husks rather than the typical plastic bags in plastic bags in plastic bags.

Oyster omelette for your health.

The region is rich in natural resources, producing crops such as lemon, bitter gourd, bananas and mushrooms. Many of the stalls within the market sell only one kind of produce, or specialise in crafts made from raw materials native to the land, inspired by the One Tambon One Product initiative.

The floating market, which does not technically float, is an argosy of handicrafts you can’t find elsewhere, fresh produce, and delicious prepared food you can enjoy by the silty waters. The best way to tackle the market is by coming with an empty stomach in the early morning, and eating your way through to the very end. Once you're full, eat more. My floating market favourites? Tod man (fried catfish covered in a delectable sauce), oyster omelettes made to order, juicy Isaan sausage and coconut ice cream.

Soothing chimes to set the mood.

Reaching the floating market is no easy feat, but worth the trek. To make a day out of it, you can rent bicycles or a boat to journey down the river, visit the local Mon-style Buddhist temples, meander through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden, or even visit a haunted building and mystery lake. For a full Bang Nam Pheung excursion, stay overnight at Home Stay Bang Nampheung, or if you’re feeling like splurging, Bangkok Tree House, a luxury eco-hotel immersed in mangrove palms.

The market is open weekends 07:00-15:00, though vendors start packing up as early as 14:00. To avoid crowds and get the freshest foods, come as early as possible.

The easiest, yet most expensive way to reach Bang Nam Pheung (a 45 minute to one-and-a-half hour drive from central Bangkok), is by hiring a taxi for the full day (try Mr Kampol Srisomboon at 086 750 3634), as it will be more difficult to find a return taxi back to central Bangkok once you are there. You can also take the MRT to Klong Toei station or Queen Sirikit station, and from there, take a motorbike taxi or taxi to Klong Toei pier (Tha Klong pier). From the pier, take a longtail boat (10 baht) to Chaeng Pier on Ratrangsan Road, and then a motorbike, taxi, or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. Alternatively, you can take the BTS to Bang Na station, exiting from stairway #2, and then take a motorbike or taxi to Sanpawut pier, and from there, take a cross-river green ferry. From the other side, you must take a motorbike, taxi or songthaew to Bang Nam Pheung. You can also take an air-con bus to Phra Pradaeng from Victory Monument (#140), Chatuchak district (#138), or Bang Lampu (#82).

Home Stay Bang Nampheung
33/2 Moo 3, Bang Nam Pheung, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan
T: (08) 9825 0107, (02) 461 0843
350-400 baht

Bangkok Tree House
Moo 1, Bang Nam Pheung, Samut Prakan
T: (082) 995 1150
Doubles from 4,690 baht/US$150
www.bangkoktreehouse.com

Tags: bangkok tree house, damnoen saduak, floating markets, markets, one tambon one product

Chatuchak and Siam Square are great places to shop in Bangkok, but if looking for an authentic, non-touristy Thai market, sometimes it's necessary to stray off the beaten path. Khlong Suan old market is most certainly out of the way, to put it nicely, or in the middle of nowhere, to be blunt, but for a taste of traditional Thai culture -- and a food experience that could very well be a highlight of your trip -- it's well worth the extra effort.

What treats await beyond these walls?

Khlong Suan is a canal that was once the fastest way to journey from Bangkok to the more easterly Bang Pakong River and beyond. It was along this canal that the market sprung up more than 100 years ago, and it has long acted as a central meeting point for traders, travellers and farmers from all over central and eastern Thailand. Most of the boats have today been replaced by cars and buses but the market is still a middle ground for people from Bangkok, Chachoengsao, Samut Prakan and Chon Buri provinces, attracting day-trippers from as far afield as Rayong to the south and Nakhon Nayok to the north.

Not a foreign tourist in sight.

The market was eventually named after the canal, which itself was named from the fertile grounds that surround it (khlong suan translates to "canal of gardens"). Though weathered and rather dilapidated in places, the market possesses a wise and noble air. A living and breathing memorial to traditional Thai culture, it doesn't look or feel all that different today than it would have when Thailand was still known as Siam.

The area surrounding the market can feel more like an old neighbourhood than a market.

While the old market's history adds some extra mystique, most visitors come for one reason only -- to eat. For food lovers who don't shy away from the exotic, this place is heaven with a liberal helping of fresh chillies and fish sauce.

Just as it would have looked a century ago.

So what did we try? The better question would be what did we not try? We started off with deep-fried Chinese-style veggie dumplings (khanom guiy chai), then on to some psychedelic looking preserved eggs with salted bean and fish (tort mun kai yeow mah).

Look in to the secret orb, I mean, egg.

Next it was deep-fried pork wontons with sweet chilli sauce (khanom tung tong), followed by coconuts stuffed with pureed sweet and spicy fish red curry and topped with a healthy splattering of rich coconut cream (haw muk mawt phlao). And these were just the appetisers.

Sweet, savoury, magnificent; or in Thai, simply aroi.

After a brief traditional Thai coffee break we dove back in with northern Thai-style curried soup with crispy noodles and chicken (khao soi).

Half-way through this khao soi I needed reminding that I was not in Chiang Mai.

And then, dessert: durian- and roselle-flavoured popsicles, coconut ice cream mixed with coconut meat and peanuts served in a coconut shell, and finally some spongy taro and strawberry flavoured southern Thai style cakes, still hot from a clearly visible on-site oven.

Roselle and coconut ice cream treats -- elegant and refreshing.

Always plotting our future food adventures, we also snatched up homemade egg noodles (ba mee), raw local spices like turmeric and galangal, dried shiitake mushrooms, particularly sweet mangoes that are difficult to find elsewhere, and freshly roasted peanuts (you know, for the road).

Ensuring the long trip back will be a pleasant one -- peanuts.

We were by this point feeling a little on the stuffed side, so we decided to go for a walk across the canal's signature, unusually high foot bridge. On the way, we checked out a small museum within the market that had, among other things, some dusty old three-quarter full bottles of scotch on display. Before making it outside we had a look at some of the non-food items available in the market: a traditional chewable stimulant made from betel nut and tobacco; homemade brooms and baskets; pet fish; and live turtles.

I'd run too little fella; best of luck to you.

Getting to Khlong Suan is a little tricky, but if you're up for an adventure (or for forking out some baht to a tour company), you will be rewarded. The cheapest way is to catch a Bangkok to Bang Khla bus from Ekkamai, but make sure to tell the driver you want to be dropped at "talart khlong suan." Buses leave regularly throughout the day and it's a little less than an hour (without much traffic) once you're on the bus.

To get back you can wait to flag down a returning bus along the main road near the market, or if getting antsy you can catch a songthaew bound for the bus stations of either Prachasoengchao or Bang Khla, either of which will have buses heading back to Bangkok.

"Come on, I dare you to make the trip."

Khlong Suan is about 25 km directly east of Suvarnabhumi airport along Lat Krabang Road, so another option is to take the airport link commuter train (which has a connection to the BTS sky train at Phaya Thai Station in Bangkok), and catch a taxi from somewhere in the airport vicinity. If wanting a return trip make sure to negotiate a price with the taxi driver before leaving the Suvarnabhumi area (around 500 baht seems fair to us; more if you want to linger for longer than 45 minutes to an hour).

Of course, you could also catch a taxi from anywhere in Bangkok, or if all of the above sounds too daunting there's no shortage of Bangkok-based tour companies that can arrange guided trips to the market in the 1,500 baht per person range (cheaper if you can get more than a few heads together).

Khlong Suan market is open every day from early morning until around 16:00.

There's another good market in Bang Khla, which we'll be reporting on soon, so stay tuned if you want to make it a full day market adventure.

Tags: Khlong Suan old market

As someone who grew up with a father who would dumpster dive for kitchen tiles, and a mother who would drag home tattered couches from the street curbs, I was taught early about the natural high of stumbling across a 'find'. You know, the shopping euphoria that washes over you when you find the most beautiful garment at the bottom of the five-dollar bin, wrinkled and smelling like a grandma, but bursting with potential. It's become an addiction.

Old is the new new.

Though shiny spankin' newness is the preferred Bangkok ascetic (see: bedazzled hamburger bun iPhone cases at MBK, and cheap clothing in Siam, made for today and meant to destruct by tomorrow), vintage-chic has been a popular new look, especially in the Thai hipster crowd. But unfortunately, new is still godly, and clothing is mass-produced to only appear like it was made in a past era. This aging clothing effect often backfires to emphasise its cheapness, like a bad nose job.

For the brave ones looking for authentic vintage clothing, or those who would like to practise recycling even with their fashion, Union Mall in Lad Prao is the perfect find. Open every day and easy to get to from the Phahon Yothin MRT, Union is an air-con, convenient, and almost empty alternative to Chatuchak Market or Thonburi.

Rolled up sleeves and ready to rumble.

Union Mall, which is opposite Central Lad Prao, is smaller and less assuming than its giant neighbor, with cheaper street-stall style stores catering to a young Thai university crowd. Even those who often frequent Union might easily have missed the vintage section, which is hidden on the fifth floor of the shopping centre. While the second and third floors are lively and full of shoppers, the fourth floor is a boarded up, and the fifth is largely bypassed to get to the movie theatre on the sixth floor. On the fifth, each of the vintage stalls has slightly different hours, and many of the spaces remain permanently unoccupied, giving the whole floor an empty feeling.

Don't let the abandoned warehouse ambiance fool you, though: I guarantee you will go home with more than one shopping bag filled with vintages goods, even with designer brand names that would go for 600 times the prices elsewhere. Skirts and dresses are around 100 to 200 baht, though the vendors are open to negotiating, especially if you buy more than one. If you've bought out the fifth floor, you can also ride the elevators down to the third floor, where there are even more vintage finds on "2nd hand street", though these stalls seem to sell more of a hybrid of retro, high-quality clothing and cheap modern goods.

There's always a sale on the fifth floor.

Wear an outfit that is easy to slip things over, as there are no dressing rooms and stripping down is not appropriate in Thailand (along with most other countries). Vendors will have mirrors and elasticised skirts, which closely resemble shower curtains, for you to use to cover up your bottom half while you change. When you are done? Complete a new look with synthetic hair extensions or nails on the second floor, or try Thailand's spin on American steak at Jeffer on first floor.

Union Mall, 5th (and 3rd) floor
54 Lat Phrao Rd, Chom Phon
The mall is open daily from 11:00-21:00
Vintage stall hours: It varies depending on the mood of the vendor, though 12:00-16:00, especially on Saturday and Sunday, seems to be the optimal time to visit.
MRT: Phahon Yothin
BTS: A five-minute cab ride from Mo Chit station. Ask a taxi or motorbike driver to take you to 'Union Mall', and they should know where to take you. If that doesn't work, try 'Central Lad Prao'.

Tags: Central Lad Prao, clothes, Union Mall, vintage clothes

Thailand is known for its lush silks and elaborate textiles, but in Bangkok proper, cheap and trendy clothing abounds. As we can see from Bangkok's haunted mall and airport terminal, shopping is a bit of cultural obsession, one that is highly contagious. You can't avoid shopping in Bangkok even if you try: opportunities for snapping up all kinds of souvenirs, as well as other temptations like cheap DVDs and well, just plain old quirky stuff, await on every street corner.

Tiny man shoes.

It's tricky to be in Bangkok on a budget, and even harder to cut down on shopping, but you can easily find cute clothing that won't break the bank. As warned in "What to bring with you to Bangkok" and "What to wear in Bangkok", both female and male clothing for sale in Thailand is generally made for people with no curves or folds, and is, shall we say, on the short side. But you can still get lucky: look for clothing with elastic, billowy shirts, and "reinvented" vintage clothing. Though do be careful, dear buyer, as even if these pieces were once Western in size, they are often tailored and elasticised to now fit a Thai body.

At most of the stores and stalls that sell cheap clothing, you are not able to try the pieces on before you buy them, but vendors will often have full-length mirrors so you can ever-so surreptitiously check yourself out in your potential new garb. If you don't have a friend with you to eyeball the size, I have a trick that always works: hold up the waistline of a skirt or trousers around your neck -- if you can wrap it around comfortably than it will fit your waist.

Do keep in mind why you are buying the clothes: because they are cheap and have a fashion shelf-life of about an hour. Don't get too upset if they decompose before you get home. Even so, check your garment for unwanted sequins, inspect the hems for loose threads, and unroll the sleeves of shirts to look for stains.

For the absurdly cheap and convenient, go to Siam Square at exit 2 or 4 at Siam BTS, where the sidewalk transforms into an outdoor shopping mall from afternoon until night. The streets get congested, so watch yourself and your stuff, or slip into a side alley where you may find more independent designers. If mass-produced and poorly assembled clothing doesn't suit your fancy, you can always walk over to Siam Discovery Mall or Siam Paragon for more upscale apparel with a larger range in size.

Siam pales in comparison to the thousands of clothing vendors at Chatuchak (JJ) Market, which is only open on the weekends and more of a shopping commitment than Siam's walk-by stalls. JJ Market has more variety and vintage finds, but the prices are not always cheap, at least by Thai standards. If you want more street-stall clothes, head to Victory Monument, right near the BTS stop, for some printed summer dresses and a bowl of boat noodles to go with them.

The "over-sized" style is in... for now.

Further out from the centre of town, you can experience the crepuscular allure of a night bazaar at the On Nut Square directly off the On Nut BTS, which wraps up around 22:00. Or try Huai Khwang Market at Huai Khwang MRT near the Tesco Lotus at Prachasongkhro intersection and Ratchadaphek Road, which serves as a food market by day and a clothing market until the wee hours of the night.

For electronics, knock-off designer bags and hair scrunchies that sparkle, head to Mahboonkrong (MBK) connected to National Stadium BTS. The clothing and accessories are by no means dead-ringers for the runway versions, but their jagged seams and stiff fabrics have a certain honest charm. Of course, if you want to build your dharma bum wardrobe with drawstring pants and intentionally frayed shirts, there's always Khao San Road, lined with clothing shops along with fake Oxford diplomas, and the occasional vegetarian restaurant.

Tags: Chatuchak, clothes, Huai Khwang Market, markets, MBK, On Nut Square, Siam Square

Walking down any Bangkok street, you’ll be bombarded with vats of pork soup and made-to-order som tam. So many options; how do you choose? For a mouthwatering Thai lunch, I avoid the obvious tourist traps and do as Bangkokians do: eat in a “tent”. Around business districts, like Phloen Chit, Silom and Asok, lunch spots that even locals might miss are tucked away, hiding behind skyscrapers and popping up in car parks. These street-food style joints cater to masses of hungry workers during lunch hour, and are only open weekdays from noon to around 15:00 (the earlier you arrive, the better).

I still dream about this meal.

These lunch-time gems don't have formal names and are usually referred to simply as a “tent”. Don’t expect air-con or a Terminal 21 cafeteria ambiance, just long tables reminiscent of grammar school days and smokey, fumey air. People come here just to eat, and it’s worth it, as the food is as authentic and fresh as it gets.

Ready to eat.

If you do manage to find one of these tents, you’ll be faced with a thousand food options once you step inside: pad Thai made with an egg cracked onto the pan, halal fried chicken and turmeric yellow rice, tom yum soup, stands with fish, squid, shrimp, and clams laid out on ice for you to select from, just for starters. Also: freshly-squeezed carrot and beet juice, yoghurt smoothies and bubble tea are among the drinks offerings.

Utensils, including chopsticks, are in communal trays. Just pick up what you need; when you are done, leave your dishes at the table, as cafeteria staff will collect them and clean off the tables.

A dress to go with your noodles.

And a speedy lunch in Bangkok would not be complete without some shopping on the side. Next to or interspersed within these food areas, you'll typically also find jewellery, clothing, home goods and electronic vendors, set up to greet the lunch-time crowd.

A handy map of the two tents in Asok (there are others, just lurking!).

In Asok, I've found two tents, both easily accessible by public transportation (and I probably walk by many others every day without knowing it!).

Soi 21 tent: turn left after this sign.

The first is off Soi 21. Look for the Grand Park View Asoke/Mid Town building (it has a KFC in it), and a metre after turn into what looks like a driveway with orange traffic cones. At the end of this driveway, you will see an entrance sign in Thai with a Pepsi logo below. Once inside, you'll find multiple lanes with shopping vendors, and beyond, a gigantic seating area with food stalls lining each side. To the left of this main area, past more food stalls, is a second, smaller seating area with additional vendors, which I prefer. (The proper address is 189/1 Soi 21, Sukhumvit Road).

A cavernous tent.

The second tent seems to be part of the Srinakharinwirot University (Prasarnmit campus)‎, so you will find both students and businesspeople on their lunch break here. This tent is a little bit trickier to find but offers an even more delicious selection of food.

From Soi 21, you can enter by walking through Grammy Place Plaza (there’s a Starbucks inside). Walk through the parking garage and out the other side, and turn left onto Soi 23. You will immediately see a granite sign for the university and hoards of people walking by. Turn left into this narrow street, and you will pass by shopping vendors then reach a food tent. You can also reach this tent by entering on Soi 23.

Look out for this handsome sign on Soi 23.

To access both spots, use BTS stop Asok or MRT stop Sukhumvit.

If you make any Thai friends on your travels here, be sure to ask them to fill you in on their secret spots -- and report back, please!

Tags: Asok, cheap lunches, food tents

Chatuchak market (pronounced jat-u-jak), or "JJ" for short, is packed with items to buy -- from refurbished vintage dresses through to Yorkshire terriers and quite a bit in between. JJ is not a made-for-tourists destination; gaggles of locals make a pilgrimage to this outdoor market each weekend.

To avoid JJ fainting, eat here.

For some, JJ is a shopping heaven, and for others, it's a consumer hell. No matter what the season is in central Bangkok, somehow JJ seems to be 10 degrees hotter and 10 times more crowded. JJ is a short walk away from the BTS and the MRT, but once you're there, things become more difficult. A leisurely shopping stroll can start to feel like you're trapped in a maze of leather shoes and ceramic bowls, yet perpetually distracted by more things to buy.

To preserve your sanity and your shopping stamina, you need a game plan. Here, dear readers, it is.

Start with a map
The Nancy Chandler map of Bangkok from 2009 is one of the best, and includes a hand-drawn and painstakingly detailed map of JJ's 27 sections and stalls. It's best to use this map as a reference to the general areas. Don't spend your day searching for one specific stall just to bypass all the rest, as the stalls change often and a lot of the products are sold by multiple vendors. JJ's own official map is numerically mind-boggling, but categories like "Clothing & Accessories",  "Amulets", and the ambiguously fun "Odds & Ends" are colour-coded.

Choose your entrance
Once you know which section you'd like to go to, pick an entrance that will get you closest rather than walking through the market to get to your destination. I find the stalls right near the Mo Chit BTS entrance tend to be mostly cheap items targetted at tourists and are swamped, so I walk around the periphery of the market to Gate 3 for trendy clothes or take the MRT to Kamphaengphet.

Remember to eat
Take periodic snack and water breaks, as there's plenty of street-style food to enjoy. Just be careful with the shrimp fried in deep vats of oil, as it may slow down your shopping high.

Watch your wallet
Narrow walkways, hordes of people and shopping bags make for a perfect scenario to get pickpocketed. Besides watching out for the typical shopping scams, keep your money safe and be discreet when pulling out the big bills.

Keep track
Found a necklace you just have to have but don't have the money? Don't expect you'll ever remember where you were. Always make a note of the stall number and section, or ask the vendor for a business card. Many of the vendors also have satellite shops in places like Terminal 21, so don't fret if you can't come back to JJ.

Come early or come late
Avoid the crowds and the sweat. The market officially opens at 9:00, though keep in mind vendors may not be fully set up until 9:30 or 10:00. If you come late, you may get a good end-of-the-day deal. The market closes at 18:00; while some vendors start packing up around 15:00, others stay open well past the official closing time.

Oh, lacy.

Chatuchak Weekend Market is officially open 09:00-18:00, Sat and Sun.
BTS: Mo Chit
MRT: Suan Chatuchak or Kamphaengphet

Tags: Chatuchak, markets

Stuck in an airport, even one that feels like outer space, can be a claustrophobic experience, verging on the traumatic. If you have some serious time to kill before you’re heading home, or you're in Suvarnabhumi Airport on a layover, you can peruse through the duty-free section for “authentic” Thai souvenirs; just because you didn't make it Chatuchak market or the souvenir shops in Sukhumvit doesn't mean it is too late to bring back a piece of Thailand. You can get perfume, brand-name cosmetics, crystals, electronics and hefty-sized boxes of cigarettes at any old airport, but below are items unique to Suvarnabhumi.

Two hours to spare in the airport? Smell soap.

The main duty-free outlet is King Power, the “King of Duty Free”, with stores in every terminal, a location on Rangnam Road in downtown, and one in Chiang Mai airport. King Power stirred up some controversy in 2009, when an innocent British couple were accused of shoplifting and forced to pay £8,000. The British Embassy issued a warning at the time, advising shoppers not to walk around the store with unpaid items, though this duty-free airport scam has not made headlines since.

In the centre of Concourse D on Level 4, the “World’s Boutique” houses Swarovski necklaces and Ralph Lauren polos, but you will also find Royal Project products, initiated by the King himself, like freeze-dried fruits and fruit products. Throughout the international departures terminal, look for the government-sponsored social development shops, including SACICT, OTOP, Sai Jai Thai Foundation, Chitrlada, and Doi Tung Lifestyle. Most of the products in these shops are made by craftspeople from Thailand's ethnic minority hill-tribes, and the proceeds (or a percentage) go to supporting their lifestyle and artistry.

Exotic chips.

Dried fruits and strange fish: Nothing says Thailand like fresh fruit or seafood, but good luck getting a pineapple or a squid through customs at your destination. Buy the next best thing in airtight packages: keep your eye out for durian or jackfruit chips, which make an interesting alternative to potato chips, and dried cuttlefish is a specialty too and more delicious than you may think.

Rice crackers: The starch of the Eastern world, mushed together to form tasty snacks. This is a good treat for the plane ride, or evidence for your loved ones that you’ve been in Thailand.

Snack time

Bamboo worms: This tasty snack is not for everyone. But the chance to buy salt-and-peppered bamboo worms does not come often, so bring back this Thai delicacy to surprise your mum.

Fresh orchids: By some miracle of pesticides and magic, Suvarnabhumi sells orchids that manage to survive 33 hours in the overhead compartment of an airplane. The orchids I bought once seemed to flourish in the recycled air, and by the time I landed there were three more blossoms. Not all countries may let your flowers through on arrival; Australia, we're looking at you.

What they smell like remains a mystery.

Incense, candles and soap: Travelling through Thailand is a multi-sensory experience – vistas of azure seas, tom yum spices on your tastebuds. Some of the signature smells of Thailand you may quickly want to forget (monsoon sewage water), but others you'll wish you could take with you forever. Hello incense, candles and soap!

Aromatherapy to bring home.

Thai spirits: While Thailand is not known for its wine, it does make an interesting assortment of hard liquor, including Mekhong and SangSom. Both are considered “Thai Whiskey”, when in fact they are closer to rum. They may not taste good, and lead to killer hangovers, but they sure come in elegant bottles.

Whiskey or rum?

Tags: King Power, souvenirs, suvarnabhumi airport

If you've come to Thailand for the food (and let's be honest: if you haven't, you've made a mistake,) visits to local markets are key. Bangkok's markets are varied -- some gigantic, some tiny -- but all are a cacophony of striving for the best food at the best price. Participation in this ritual is one of the most enjoyable aspects of life here. Food breaks down into two catagories: aroi or mai aroi. Delicious or not -- the decision making is left open to everyone and much discussion is expected. If you don't speak Thai, vigorous nodding is an acceptable substitute. Obviously there are personal preferences, but it is fun to be able to dive in and discover the difference between the aroi and mai aroi by simply ordering a bowl of noodles.

Grandmas decide: MAI AROI. No one is pleased.

Bangkok Noi market isn't on most people's tour itineraries in Bangkok but it is a great market and a great opportunity to visit Bangkok's Brooklyn: Thonburi. Located next to Thonburi railway station, Bangkok Noi market is the place to stock up on fruit and snacks before taking the train out to Kanchanaburi, for a great breakfast on your way to Khlong Bangkok Noi floating market, or to wander over to after having a look at the vintage errata at Wang Lang Pier.

Mmmmm! Open air meat!

Come to snack on kanom krok, grilled coconut fritters, or kanom khai nok krata fried yam dumplings, or take away prepared curries -- kaeng paa (jungle curry) and kaeng som (fiery sour southern style curry) are great options to have a meal by the river (Phra Athit Park is a nice place for a picnic lunch.)

To get to Bangkok Noi market, take the Chao Phraya express ferry and get off at Wang Lang Pier. Walk up Phran Nok Road (and while walking notice the large hospital on the right -- that's where the King currently resides). Turn right at the intersection with Arun Ammarin. At the next road, turn left and the market starts about 100 metres in on your right side.

Tags: Bangkok Noi market, markets, Thonburi

We now know what you need to consider bringing to Bangkok. But besides the standard Thai souvenirs, what should you buy in Bangkok rather than at home? Here's a list of items you may have assumed are not readily available on this side of the world and may even save some cash picking up here.

Eyeglasses for all.

Eyeglasses: Thailand makes lenses for eyeglasses or spectacles extremely cheaply. Bring your glasses and prescription and get a new pair made for a shockingly low price. [Ed: I have a big head and have tended to find the actual frames too small for my face in Southeast Asia, so I second BYOing frames -- the lenses are indeed a bargain.]

Massages: If you were planning to bring your personal masseuse, no need. Thailand is world-renowned for their cheap (and strong) massages for around 200 baht an hour, though when you go really cheap, you may perhaps end up somewhere a bit dodgy (though not always, we hasten to add -- there are plenty of legit cheap places). If you want to be certain of what you're getting, you can always try Wat Pho, and if you are okay with paying a few hundred baht more for flasher surrounds, Body Tune is one reputable chain with three Bangkok branches. If you do want to stick to a cheap, random place off the street, try for a reflexology session, which is basically a foot massage that also includes a leg, arm, and mini-back massage while seated. If you don’t like it strong, make sure to tell them first.

Prescriptions: If you are worried about getting your prescription filled in Bangkok, don’t be. Bangkok has a pharmacy on every corner, and the funny thing is, you often don’t need a prescription and the prices are often cheaper than you'll be used to. If you have a serious health condition that requires medication, I certainly don’t recommend you show up empty-handed in Bangkok. But for those who need a quick refill of a standard medication, there's no need to fret. If you are also prescribed medicine at the hospital, don’t buy it directly from the hospital -- it will be a lot more expensive to get from a pharmacy. (Though do check standard things like expiry date and dosages.)

Welcome to the pharmacy.

Cell-phones or mobile phones: If you want a cheap cell-phone while you travel, head to MBK where you can get a phone for 1,000 baht or less and a pay-as-you-go plan to find your friends amid the masses on Khao San Road. Another option would be to bring your phone, even an iPhone or Blackberry, to get it unlocked so you can use a Thai SIM card.

Purified water: Do not bother bringing water purifying tablets or portable reverse osmosis systems. Bottled water is available all over Bangkok, as well as water purifying stations where you can fill up your bottle for no more than five baht. Don't drink the water that comes out of your hotel sink, but packaged bottled water and water purifying stations are perfectly clean. When buying bottled water, make sure to the bottles have a plastic seal.

(We) sell water.

Silks, orchids and, with skill and luck, gems: Leave these necessities at home. Thailand is known for its luscious silks which you can buy at the fabric market and blooming orchids at Chatuchak Market. Glittering gems can be a reasonable buy, but you really need to know your stuff. Do not go to any stores your tuk tuk or taxi driver recommend, nor any claiming to be "government owned" as these will likely be scams.

DVDs: For the long plane ride home, you can buy burned DVDs off the streets or at MBK for a fraction of the normal price.

Proof of internet.

The internet: Duh. Bangkok has internet. Lots of it. I am on it right now.

Tags: fabrics, gems, massage, orchids, packing list bangkok, shopping, water

Your flight is in three hours, and your suitcase is empty. What should you bring ? The short answer is, nothing, as Bangkok has everything you could possibly need. Hazelnut gelato and Prada shoes. Immemorial temples, 24-hour pizza huts. But some things are easier to find or cheaper to buy at home. Besides the typical packing list (Socks. Passport. Husband), here are some insider tips on what to bring to Bangkok that you may not want to purchase here.

"White Impress" Whitening soap. Uncomfortable.

Moisturiser/Cream: It might be confusing at first, but most moisturisers, creams, and even soap in Thailand contain a whitening agent. If you do not want your skin bleached a pasty white (I’d recommend no, those chemicals are nasty), bring your preferred products from home. Western chains like Boots are located around Bangkok with standard pricing, but if you won't have time to shop, bring your own. (And even there you will find some of the products are catered towards Thai consumers with whitening ingredients -- make sure you check labels!)

Deodorant: Something is rotten in the state of deodorant. No, but it will be harder to find anti-perspirant without strange chemicals, smells and bleaching solution. Better bring it from home -- or be prepared to experiment -- as you will need it in the heat.

Sunscreen: Sunscreen is available here, but the brands that you are used to trusting for skin protection will be difficult to find, or jacked up in price.

Condoms:  Bangkok, a city of peep-shows and go-go bars, has an ample supply of condoms, and they can be conveniently purchased in the checkout line of any 7-eleven. But for those who think they might be… well-endowed... you may wish to bring your x-large condoms from home.

Small to average size condoms at 7-eleven. Discrimination!

Tampons: Thais haven't really adopted tampons with the same gusto as we have in the West. While they are sold in some stores, they are ridiculously expensive, or only of the O.B. self-applicator variety (no fun!).

M.I.A. tampons.

Batteries: Batteries are available in Bangkok, but some say they are poorer quality and run out fast -- they are cheap though. If you have room in your luggage, you might want to bring some just to be safe.

Clothes for anyone above size S: Look, I’m not telling you that you're fat. It’s just that clothing on the street is made for those small and svelte in stature, and it’s difficult to find anything that fits you if you are above five feet. For women, Thai clothing tends to be either granny-length long or crotch level short, with a prodigal amount of bows, lace, and other exciting frills. It's hard to know what is appropriate for foreigners to wear in Bangkok. For men, the shirts are made for slender shoulders and probably tailored tighter than you are used to. Terminal 21 or Chatuchak Market are great places to find men’s clothing at a “normal” size, though it takes a bit of sleuthing.

Thailand has a funny thing called “free-size”, which is basically one-size-fits-a-small-population-of-the-universe. While all of the brand names you might find at home are available in Bangkok, the prices are jacked up for the international market. The clothing on the street, though cheap, is often poor quality, so if you do plan on purchasing a dress or two, don’t expect them to last long.

English-language magazines and books: Again, these are available in Bangkok, but they come at a hefty price and there might not be the selection you are used to. If you need your New Yorker by your side at all times, better bring it from home. It also might be a fun experience to pick up a Thai magazine from any newsstand; you won’t be able to understand a thing, but the pictures are worth a look.

Electronics: Bangkok is not always the place to buy fancy electronics on a whim. Do your research and make sure what you are buying is authentic. Some report cheaper prices in Hong Kong but mileage will vary depending on the good concerned, and paying $200 to fly to Hong Kong to save $70 on a camera isn't too wise. Even times when you think what you are buying is real (inside a nicely air-conditioned store with a wide selection and helpful salespeople), it may be of poor quality and from the gray market. You can look up the serial code of the product just to be sure. If you are willing to take the risk or need a cheap cell phone, you can still head to MBK for used yet usable devices.

Tissues: Now, most people would not feel they need to bring tissue paper overseas. But just a fair warning, the “napkins” they offer at restaurants here are pitifully thin. They disintegrate in your hands. Be warned.

How pitiful!

Tags: condoms, shopping, tissues, what to bring to bangkok, what to bring to thailand, what to pack