Archive for the 'Sites' Category

May 04 2012

Review: Bangkok's Wat Saket and the Golden Mount

Published by under Culture,Sites

One of Thailand's most treasured temples, the Golden Mount of Wat Saket glistens above Bangkok's historic Banglamphu area as imposingly today as it did more than 200 years ago. Wat Saket's living history, peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views of Bangkok have made it one of my favourite major sites in the city, and when a friend comes to visit I always make sure to bring them here.

Tired of crowded and noisy Bangkok? Wat Saket provides relief.

Tired of crowded and noisy Bangkok? Wat Saket provides relief.

First established during the Ayutthaya period in the 1700s, when Bangkok was nothing but a small trading post, Wat Saket is one of the city's most historically prominent temples. Although it often takes a back seat to Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Arun, and Wat Pho on the Bangkok tourist trail, Wat Saket actually predates any of these.

Even in this age of elevated trains and skyscrapers, Wat Saket makes itself known.

Even in this age of elevated trains and skyscrapers, Wat Saket makes itself known.

The temple is particularly cherished by Thais thanks to the powerful military commander, Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, who would later become King Rama I (founder of the still reigning Chakri Dynasty and one of Thailand's most important historical figures), using the temple grounds as a place to rejuvenate between his constant military pursuits in the region during the late 1700s. The Thai words, sa and ket,  refer to "shower" and "hair", so Wat Saket got its name due to the king-to-be cleansing himself here, both physically and spiritually.

Don't worry, there's a coffee shop half way up.

Don't worry, there's a coffee shop half way up.

The Golden Mount (phu khao thong) was built within the Wat Saket grounds by Rama I's grandson, King Rama III in the early 1800s. Rising some 58 metres above the ground, the steep human-made hill is crowned at its top by a large golden chedi that's believed to house relics of the Buddha. Waterfalls, flower gardens and prayer bells are found all along the stairways winding to the top, and from the first step upwards Wat Saket is nothing short of a soothing experience.

After passing through an enclosed shrine area, a steep stairwell emerges on to an open-air platform centred around the main chedi at the very top of the structure. Here, a small crowd of locals are usually found offering flowers, candles, incense, and prayers as a few tourists soak in the atmosphere. Even on the hottest of days a refreshing breeze gently chimes tiny gold leaf bells, each representing a donation from the lay community.

A surreal city scape from atop Wat Saket.

A surreal city scape from atop Wat Saket.

The Golden Mount was Bangkok's tallest structure until the 20th century, and although dwarfed today by modern skyscrapers its location among an ancient neighbourhood of two-storey buildings still allows for some impressive 360-degree views of the city.

Above the chaos of Bangkok.

Above the chaos of Bangkok.

Though the Golden Mount is the main draw for tourists, Wat Saket is a sprawling temple that also includes a cavernous ordination hall and many other smaller buildings, shrines, stupas and alleys. The temple has long been a centre of local and national Buddhist activity, and the temple is as alive today as it has ever been. On special occasions, such as New Year's Eve and Visaka, thousands of monks and members of the lay community take part in a candlelight procession that streams from the main hall to the top of the Golden Mount and continues late into the night.

If here around 17:00 you can check out a traditional chanting service in the main hall.

If here around 17:00 you can check out a traditional chanting service in the main hall.

As with all functioning temples or sacred places of any religion, it's important to be respectful of local culture by acting and dressing appropriately while visiting Wat Saket. The temple is located in the heart of the Banglamphu historical district near the busy intersection of Thanon Ratchadamnoen and Thanon Lan Luang, a short walk from Democracy Monument to the west or the Giant Swing to the south. The Golden Mount is open to visitors everyday from 8:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.

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Mar 29 2012

Wat Arun: The temple of DIY

Published by under Sites

Wat Pho may be the larger-than-life stunner on the Bangkok temple circuit, but Wat Arun is still a fine lookin' piece of sacred real estate waiting across the river.  If you are like me and equate the old with the stunning, the decrepit with the intriguing, then Wat Arun is worth a stop on your ferry ride.

This way to heaven.

Unlike Wat Pho or The Grand Palace, Wat Arun is on the west side of the Chao Phraya River, in Thonburi. Yes, that sounds awfully inconvenient for a packed sightseeing schedule, but it is actually a two baht, millisecond ferry ride from Wat Pho. That's .04 pounds, .07 dollars, or 1/50 of an ice cream cone. What a steal! And just think, one time long ago, they actually had to move the entire wat from the palace grounds to the other side of the river. All you're doing is moving yourself.

Blossoming flower corners.

The most salient part of Wat Arun is its central prang, which falls somewhere between the phallic and the DIY movement. Tall, erect, and bedazzled with shards of floral earthenware and seashells, Wat Arun is a fine beauty from up close and afar. There are four Khmer-style towers, each held up by monkeys and tired-looking demons. Given its epithet, the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun looks best in the early hours of the morning, or for those who value sleep, in the soft gloaming of the night.

I'll just watch from down here

Without the thrills and frills of its golden neighbour and half the price of entry, Wat Arun's main activity is walking up the treacherous stairs to enjoy views of the Chao Phraya River. It's like a historical StairMaster, and worthy of spot on our detox day in Bangkok itinerary. But given the crowds and the wrath of mother nature, you might want to opt for a lower view.  I waited at the bottom and observed the Chinese porcelain instead.

Heavy lifting.

Wat Arun
No. 35, Arun Amarin Road, Kwang Wat Arun
Ferry:
From Tha Thien Pier, take the cross-river ferry, which leaves every 10 minutes from 6:00 to 22:00 daily (2 baht). The Chao Phraya River Tourist Express Boat tickets are not accepted.
Bus:
19, 57, and 83

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Jan 24 2012

Bangkok versus Chiang Mai

The two cities that are arguably the most popular for travellers in Thailand, Bangkok and Chiang Mai, clearly have a lot to offer. How do they compare, in a nutshell? (Yes, we know we're succumbing to some cliches here, but it's part of the fun...)

Chiang Mai's Chinatown: Street food for all.

The food
Chiang Mai:
Signature khao soi; Isaan papaya salad, spiced just how you like it. Bangkok: Juicy mangoes. Grilled prawns. Korean kimchi. Pad Thai. Sushi boats. Anything, anywhere, any hour of the night.

Bangkok, you so fancy.

The culture
Chiang Mai
: Farang-friendly to a fault; wheatgrass shots and blowzy dharma bums. Bangkok: A harsher collide between the developing world and global modernity. Burger Kings by time-worn wats.

The livestock of Chiang Mai

The pull
Chiang Mai:
Come for a few days to visit, get a teaching job, leave three years later. Bangkok: Permanent expats in business suits; sweaty tourists passing through.

The night life
Chiang Mai:
  Happy hour by the Ping River, laidback evenings and all-night parties. Bangkok: Where Asia comes to party, British pubs and chilled-out lounges, exclusive clubs and cover fees.

Careful with your life when crossing streets in Bangkok.

The locale
Chiang Mai:
Forty minutes from limestone caves and outdoor adventures. A weekend trip to the Burmese border. Bangkok: Two hours to Kanchanburi and Khao Yai, three hours to Koh Samet and Hua Hin, a plane ride to anywhere.

The shopping
Chiang Mai:
Hilltribe pompoms and pillow cases, weekend bazaars and cultural festivals. Bangkok: Chatuchak craziness. Malls and malls and more malls. International brands, with Western styles.

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Aug 31 2011

A half-day at Dusit Park

Published by under Sites

For many Bangkok visitors, Dusit forever remains an unexplored green blob on their city map. If you have some time after hitting the city's must sees, this royal district adds a distinctly European vibe to Bangkok's Asian energy. After his visit to Europe in the mid-nineteenth century, King Rama V had Dusit modernised to echo what he saw in the West. The result? Wide avenues, tree-lined streets and a royal palaces with a continental hint.

Actually, wearing pink or blue is not mandatory at Vimanmek.

Unless you're planning a day of slow strolls and reflective moments in the shade, Dusit Park really requires no more than half a day; it does however demand you be properly attired. Shoulders covered, skirts or pants past the knee and proper shoes. If you and I were going together, I'd insist we start the trip around lunchtime in order to get yummy pad thai from the lady working in the cafeteria not far from the Thanon Rajwithi entrance.

After lunch, we'd head to the park's main draw, Vimanmek Mansion. A European aesthetic with a Thai touch, the mansion is built entirely of teak. A one-hour tour takes you through this 19th century royal residence, which houses a huge collection of King Rama V's personal artefacts. Most guidebooks celebrate the fact that the mansion is home to the first indoor bathroom in Thailand but what I found the most interesting were the framed period snapshots of the royal family.

Beauty in the details.

After the mansion, stroll over to Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall. To be frank, the detailed outside of the building is perhaps more interesting than the inside, but if you do go in there are extensive collections of Thai handicrafts all funded by one of the Queen's pet projects. Across the courtyard from Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall is the Royal Elephant Museum. Not a must-see, but the museum is still a neat place to poke your head in. The two museum buildings are former stables for the royal elephants and inside you'll find a quaint, charming exhibition of the history of the prized white elephant in Thailand.

Can you hear Europe calling?

The last stop on this Dusit Park tour is Ananta Samakhon Throne Hall and there's no way you'll miss it. Look for the building unabashedly channeling a Western-style capitol. The most interesting thing about the Throne Hall is that when you go into its dome, the ceiling is covered in murals detailing the history of the Chakri Dynasty. The juxtaposition of this Western-style building and these beautiful Asian murals is really a treat. From start to finish, these sites should all take about three hours. This gives you enough time to stop for a coffee outside the Throne Hall before making your way to your next adventure.

It's not possible to get here on the MRT or BTS but buses 70, 56, 28 and 108 all pass nearby. The price of admission is 250 baht but entrance is free if you have a ticket to the Grand Palace that is less than one week old. Admission to the Ananta Samakhon Throne Hall is an additional 150 baht. The park is open daily from 09:30 until 16:00.

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Aug 30 2011

Visiting Bangkok on a budget

Enjoying Bangkok on a budget is very possible, and my favourite part? There's no need to sacrifice comfort or delicious meals. Compared to Southeast Asian cities like Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok is a bargain. However, if your point of reference is the rest of Thailand, or neighbouring countries, Bangkok starts to look a little steep. Taking a few minutes to plot out your day will help to save baht in the long run. Here's what you might like to consider.

Now this is the way to snack.

Eat local. A big way to pilfer away money is on pricey food. Avoid a gamble on a not-so-tasty mid-priced restaurant and go for some good old-fashioned street eats. Street food is everywhere and it's delicious -- don't be afraid of it! Look for a stall that seems popular and you will not be led astray. Local markets as well as food courts, which can be found in every mall, are other great places for affordable grub. And snacks? Opt for fresh fruit from street vendors.

Plan your lodging. I don't mean MONTHS in advance but plan at least far enough in the future that you're not wandering the sweaty streets looking for any place of refuge you can find. There are tons of great hostels for under 500 baht a night, and if you book in advance you can guarantee that at least that part of the equation is taken care of. The longer you wait to book, the more likely it is that the cheap places will be all filled up meaning you'll either end up somewhere overpriced or, worse, somewhere cage-like.

Avoid pricey drinks with seductive stirrers.

Pre game. Go back to your university roots and pre game. While alcohol at a bar might be a little pricey, booze from somewhere like a 7-eleven is extremely cheap. Save on the bar tab and grab a six-pack at the convenience store. You can't bring it into the bar but you can save money by drinking up before you get there. (Or: just don't drink!)

Not all bus rides will be this adorable.

Take public transport. The MRT and BTS are both very simple and worth using if they go near your destination. Unfortunately, these two modes of mass-transit don't go to all of Bangkok's must-see spots. If the MRT and BTS are out I'd recommend the bus. The BMTA has a great site where you can plug in your destination to find out which buses you need to take. Additionally, save on coming in from the airport by hitching a ride on the very affordable Airport Link.

Shop at markets. Whether it's Chatuchak or just the stall on the corner, shopping at markets is the way to go. Avoid pricey malls and look for something cheap and roadside. With some (polite) bargaining, prices may go even lower than the vendor's first figure.

You don't need to pay big bucks to see a big Buddha. Wat Indraviharn is a freebie.

Free sites. Many of Bangkok's sites charge admission, but an equal number of under-the-radar temples and sites let you take in the scene for free. Check out spots like Wat Rachabophit or Khlong Toei market for a taste of local life without the price tag.

Dress the part. At the end of the day Thailand is still a very Buddhist country and Bangkok, while modern, very much respects the Buddhist laws of decency. If you are going to a holy site, like Wat Phra Kaew or Wat Pho, then make sure to be well covered up. It will save you on the clothing rental deposit.

If you give your trip to Bangkok a bit of forethought and have a little patience it is possible to spend between 600 and 700 baht per day, or a little more than US$20, including hostels. If you want a little cushion for some mini-splurges then 1,000 baht a day, or US$30, should be a piece of cake. You won't be living large but you will be living just fine.

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Aug 23 2011

24 hours in Bangkok: Off the beaten track must-sees

Published by under Activities,Culture,Sites

Last week we talked about the three classic Bangkok must-sees, so this week let's take a wander off the beaten track. Bangkok is one of those cities were many of the most memorable offerings are just below the surface. Amazing restaurants are tucked down back alleys, the best shops are hidden in the depths of a market, and that perfect food stall is probably smushed between a laundry lady and a 7-eleven. To save you on the search time, here are few must-see sites that are not on the typical Bangkok list.

Wat Leng Noi Yi 

A little Chinese charm.

Built in 1871, Wat Leng Noi Yi, also called Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, is the most important temple in Chinatown. Full disclosure: the temple is currently under re-construction but never fear the temple's beauty is not only in the architecture but also in the scene. Worshippers are here at all hours, letting birds free from tiny cages, praying at altars and making offerings of burning paper. The last time I was there I arrived just in time for the start of a ceremony with dozens of monks chanting in unison. With so much activity going on, the most respectful thing to do is find a quiet corner and take it all in. This is a great window into Thai-Chinese life.

Wat Leng Noi Yi is on Charoen Krung Road near its intersection with Soi Itsara Nuphap. It's a long walk from the MRT station at Hualamphong. Open daily 06:00-18:00. 

Museum of the Deparment of Forensic Medicine
You have to give points to a site that is seared into your memory, and hands down this is the grossest museum I have even been to. There is much to see here and none of it is pretty. (No photos are allowed inside so you'll have to take my word for it.) Aborted foetuses, crushed skulls, horrifying accident photographs -- this is not a place for the faint of heart. That said, if gore and grim is your thing then this spot cannot be missed. Hidden away in Siriraj Hospital this museum has displays of some of the most horrifying things imaginable, including the mummified remains of Thailand's two most infamous serial killers. In true Thai style there is a cafe outside, in case you want a latte with that.

The museum is open from 09:00-16:00 daily and the price of admission is 40 baht. The hospital is on the Chao Phraya River, just off the Tha Wang Lang Chao Phraya Express pier. The museum is at the northern end of a dozen buildings huddled on the grounds. It's a bit tricky to find -- ask directions. 
www.si.mahidol.ac.th/museums/en/index.htm

Monk Bowl Village

Pick a bowl, any bowl.

So nice that I've had to write about it twice, I previously posted on Monk Bowl Village, or Baan Bat, as a historic stop well worth your while. A tiny back alley that is the one and only place in Bangkok where alms bowls are still made by hand, Baan Bat really is one of the most unique places in town. A glimpse back to the Bangkok of yore, this little community has been making alms bowls for hundreds of years and if you're adventurous enough to go find them they will show you just how they do it. Wood fired kiln, freshly hammered steel? My two favourite ways to start the day. Buy a bowl and you'll receive a neighbourhood alley tour, and a pretty incredible souvenir for around 1,000 baht.

Baan Bat is located on Soi Baan Bat off of Thanon Bamrung Meuang. The bat makers are there daily from 10:00 until 18:00. The 508 bus stops nearby as does the khlong taxi to Tha Phan Fah. Follow the sounds of the hammers and make sure to hit up this particular spot, not the more tourist-ready bat makers on the main road. 

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Aug 09 2011

Alms bowls at Bangkok's Baan Bat

Published by under Activities,Sites

As a traveller I find myself on a neverending quest for something "real", something that doesn't involve being hoarded around by a leader holding an umbrella or scrambled in a sea of other lost tourists.  If that seems to be your M.O. as well, then a visit to Baan Bat will surely not disappoint. Tucked down a twisting alley not far from Wat Saket and Golden Mount is Baan Bat, the only community left in Bangkok where monks' alms bowls, otherwise known as bat, are still made by hand.

All in a day's work.

The bat are an essential monk accessory, and are carried every morning by monks as they go to collect alms.  These days most bat are factory made, but at Baan Bat they are still hammering the steel by hand and throwing the bowls in a wood-fired oven. And did I mention that all of this is happening right on the street?

Baan Bat, literally meaning "House of Bat", is the only remaining craft village established by Rama I during the initial settling of Bangkok. Back in the early days of the city, Rama I divided Bangkok into various craft villages or neighbourhoods, each responsible for the output of a good. I think we can guess what Baan Bat was in charge of, and alms bowls have been made in this area of Bangkok for more than 200 years.

Time to bake the bat.

It should be mentioned that these "real" experiences come with a few hiccups. On my first visit I was chased by a dog and a bat hammerer had to momentarily pause to rescue me. If that's not enough charm for you, Baan Bat has plenty more. As bat making is somewhat of a dying art, the workers are very happy to show you the process and when I was there they led me down the twisting alleys of their small neighborhood, through tiny living rooms and baby play areas, to see their prized shrine, equipped with a bat making deity.

These bat are also for sale, and buying one is an excellent way to support this shrinking, historic community. Small bowls start around 600 baht, while the larger bowls are sold for upwards of 1,000 baht. Baan Bat is a remarkable stop and one of the most unique sites in the city.

Baan Bat is located on Soi Baan Bat off of Thanon Bamrung Meuang. The bat makers are there daily from 10:00 until 18:00. The 508 bus stops nearby as does the khlong taxi to Tha Phan Fah. Follow the sounds of the hammers and make sure to hit up this particular spot, not the more tourist-ready bat makers on the main road. 

 

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Aug 02 2011

Historical Bangkok museum houses

Published by under Culture,Sites

A few posts back, we talked about museums that give a history of Bangkok. Today, I'll focus on a few homes-turned-museums that give more personal glimpses into Thai life of the past 200 years.  These four museums are all former homes, and all of them afford stellar looks into Thai architecture and design as well as daily Thai life of those bygone eras.

The Jim Thompson House

Thai Silk Barbie's dream house.

The heavy hitter in the Bangkok home museum category is undoubtedly The Jim Thompson House. Of the many things to see and do in Bangkok, this leafy and historical oasis is a Bangkok must-see, and a spot that both pays homage to traditional Thai architecture while providing interesting background on that famed Thai silk.

The former home of Jim Thompson, an American credited with revitalising the Thai silk industry, the house was inhabited  in the 1950s and 60s until Thompson's mysterious death. Thompson's home takes six traditional Thai teak houses brought from all over the country, and crafts them into one dream house. The interior decoration and his displayed collections are beautiful as well. Come prepared to shop and eat as the on-site restaurant and silk store make this stop a triple sightseeing treat.

www.jimthompson.com
Admission: 100 baht, students 50 baht
Open daily 09:00-17:00
The museum is a five-minute walk from the National Stadium BTS station. Follow the signage and ignore dodgy men telling you it's closed.

M.R. Kukrit's House

Modernity creeping in.

Frequently compared to The Jim Thompson House, M.R. Kukrit's House is another 20th century home constructed through the union of small traditional teak houses. M.R. Kukrit was Thailand's prime minister in 1974-5, and this tranquil spot was his abode until his death in 1995. While not quite as picturesque as Jim Thompson's, M.R. Kukrit's House feels much less like a museum and much more like a house tour. While at The Jim Thompson House you are guided from room to room, but here you are invited to stroll through the garden and home. With books on the shelves and dogs wandering from room to room, there is still a very homey, if borderline eerie, feeling that the owner could be back at any second.

www.kukritshousefund.com
Admission price: 50 baht, 20 baht for students
Open daily 10:00-16:00
The house can be reached from
Narathiwatrajanakarin Road Soi 7 or South Sathorn Road Soi 3. Get off at BTS station Chong Nonsi or the BRT station Sathorn. It is about a 10-minute walk from the BTS. 

Bangkokian Museum

Wasn't this the bed in my last guesthouse?

A different type of house altogether, The Bangkokian Museum is set up in the former home of a middle-class Thai family who lived here from 1937 to 1957. Very Western in its style, some of the most interesting aspects of this house are the hot weather twists on Western design -- like walls that don't reach the roof so the hot air can escape. After 45 minutes of exploring I had a feel for the family who lived here; where Grandmother liked to read, where Mum and Dad preferred to sleep, which rooms the kids gathered in to listen to music. In addition to a lovely family history, the museum also boasts rooms devoted to 19th and 20th century Thai artifacts including coins, adverts and kitchen appliances.

Admission price: Free
Open Wed-Sun 09:00-15:30
The Chao Phraya Express stops N2 and N3 are both a short walk from the Bangkokian Museum.  The museum is located on Charoen Krung soi 43, between Charoen Krung and Thanon Mahesak Surasak. 

Kamthieng House

Those familiar Thai curves.

The least polished of these four stops, The Kamthieng House was built alongside Chiang Mai's Ping River in 1848. In the mid 20th century this tiny home was moved to Bangkok, where it has been restored to its former splendour. The home displays beautiful Lanna architecture and has many exhibitions devoted to depicting the Lanna way of life. While the rooms are not furnished according to their original design, you can still get a great feel for the house by walking its narrow stilted outdoor corridors and crouching through the doorways of its often tiny rooms.

www.siam-society.org
Admission price: 100 baht
Open Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00

Kamthieng House is located on Sukhumvit Soi 21, a five-minute walk from the Asok BTS. It is located just outside the MRT station Sukhumvit. 

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Aug 01 2011

Bangkok's prettiest wat: Wat Rachabophit

Published by under Sites

I must confess, I was tempted not to post on Wat Rachabophit and just keep all of its under-the-radar splendour to myself, but mother always said that "sharing is caring". On a recent research pilgrimage for Travelfish.org I spent some quality time sampling dozens of Bangkok's illustrious wats. Of course I was impressed by the famed Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho and the shimmering detail at Wat Arun, but the wat I really fell head over heels for was charmingly quaint Wat Rachabophit.

Pictures do not do her justice.

Wat Rachabophit is not reknowned or heavily touristed, and perhaps for those very reasons finding this Bangkok diamond in the rough makes a visit here all the more special. Located in the city's sightseeing centre right between the Grand Palace, Chinatown and the Giant Swing, Wat Rachabophit is an absolute oasis in the craziness of the tourist zone. Built under the reign of Rama V in the mid-19th century, the temple has an extremely unusual design which features a chedi enclosed in a circular cloister. I guarantee that even if you are not a temple expert (which I am not) this feature will be a noticeable difference that adds to the unique beauty of this sleepy wat.

It's a circular cloister. D'ya see?

Another of Wat Rachabophit's striking features are its stand-out colours. Every exterior wall of the temple is covered in Chinese porcelain, with blues, reds and yellows all of a slightly faded quality. Ornately gilded and mother of pearl inlaid doors add to the splendour and rival some of the details found at nearby Wat Phra Kaew. The overall effect yields one of Bangkok's prettiest temples -- if not the prettiest.

Dress your wat in faded colour.

Another special feature of the temple is its relative peace. Each time I've visited there have only been a few lone merit-makers and a handful of pedestrians strolling the grounds or eating snacks under the trees. With shade, quiet and incredible architecture, Wat Rachabophit is one of Bangkok's hidden gems, and a very convenient stop while hitting some of the more famous sites nearby.

One of the only other people I saw during one visit.

Wat Rachabophit is located just off of Klong Lod on Atsadong Road. It is about a 10-minute walk from the Grand Palace, a five-minute walk from the Giant Swing or a 15-minute walk from Chinatown.

(more...)

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Jul 22 2011

Bangkok museums for Bangkok history lovers

Published by under Culture,Sites

After hearing many gripes about how devoid Bangkok is of culture, I have been pleasantly surprised by the number of thorough and user-friendly museums in this town. Dig a little beneath the surface and you'll find a  selection of cultural picks, from modern galleries to niche novelty stops. Among the riches are several Bangkok-focused history museums; if you are interested in taking a peek at this city's past, each of these three spots is an excellent place to do it.

Wat Traimit

Beauty outside, museum inside.

Most noted for its massive five-metre Buddha, inside Wat Traimit on the second floor is a thoughtful museum on the history of Bangkok's Chinatown. With videos, photographs, life-sized displays and interactive features, the museum traces the history of the heavily influential Chinese in Bangkok. The museum is small and a visit should take 45 minutes at most. Pair it with some street noodles and you've got yourself an afternoon.

Admission price: 100 baht
Open daily 08:00-17:00
The wat is located about a five-minute walk from Hualamphong MRT station along Tramit road.

King Prajadhipok Museum

Royal family candids.

A must-see for biography lovers, this museum traces the life of King Prajadhipok, otherwise known as Rama VII. I knew nothing about Rama VII before visiting, but after an hour in the museum I had a new soft-spot for this strangely intriguing king. Ruling during the late 1920s and early 1930s, Rama VII was on the throne when revolution turned Thailand into a constitutional monarchy. Through photographs, artifacts, outfits and stories, the museum follows his life in detail (from birth in Thailand to exile in England) as well as the life of his wife, Queen Ramphaiphanni.

www.kingprajadhipokmuseum.org
Admission price: Free
Open Tues-Sun 09:00-16:00
The museum is located at 2 Lanluang Road near Democracy Monument. It is easily accessible from the Phan Fa pier for the Sansaep Canal Boat or buses 2, 15, 44, 47, 59, 60 or 169. It is a 15-minute walk from Khao San Road.

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

Larger than life dancing will occur.

Rattanakosin, the island that Khao San Road sits on, is the oldest section of Bangkok and this brand-new museum presents a compelling historical account of the area. The museum's strongest suits are its modern displays, interactive features and easy-to-understand explanations of royal traditions and customs. During my visit there were hardly any other foreigners in the place; with that in mind it's interesting to see how Bangkok history is presented to locals. All of the information presented borders on propaganda, and through that lens it's even more fascinating.  A visit to the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall requires a two-hour guided tour, so factor that in before committing.

www.nitasrattanakosin.com
Admission price: 200 baht, plus 1,000 baht deposit for audio tour (recommended)
Open Tues-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00
Located at 100 Ratchadamnoen Road not far from Democracy Monument. Easily accesibly on buses 44, 511 and 512 and a 10-minute walk from the Phan Fa pier for the Sansaep Canal Boat. It is a five-minute walk from Khao San Road.

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