While it might not completely follow the spirit of Songkran celebration, an extra benefit of everyone getting soaked is many fine, fine gentlemen in tight, wet T-shirts. Don't act like the thought didn't cross your mind.

Hey Thai Brothers!

Bangkok offers a Gay Songkran (ahem, wet) dream to those that want to get out and get wild. Silom turns into a huge water fight/bar party during Songkran, and Soi 2 and 4 will be heaving with Bangkok boys and visitors having a good time. DJ Station and GOD all have special events planned for Songkran with extended hours. Since Silom itself will be closed to traffic, this whole area turns into a huge party.

Party organisers gCircuit are throwing three days of gay parties from April 15-17, the opening event taking place at the Renaissance Hotel. Expect lots of expensive underwear, eye candy, and general floozy behavior. Tickets and more information available at the party's site. Babylon is hosting two foam parties in a general Sodom-and-Gomorrah atmosphere, guaranteeing this sauna will be busy the whole week.

Slows days on Samet

If you can't imagine a Songkran without a beach, Koh Samet is the place for the in-the-know gay to be. Dubbed Silom-Soi-4-on-Beach, Ao Tubtim and Ao Phai beaches are a lot of fun, with outdoor parties, lots of cute Aussies in speedos, and a generally open and welcoming attitude.

Bangkok is amazing during Songkran. As millions migrate back to their hometowns, the Thai capital is freed from its choking coil of traffic and can become downright bucolic. While this temporary desertion can make getting a cab or tuk tuk a bit of a challenge, the buses and trains are still running (time to invest a bus map -- available at book stores and newspaper kiosks citywide, 100 baht) and the shopping centres and cinemas are still open.

Public transport helps relieve traffic congestion

Just about anywhere in the city can provide you with a good soaking, but if you are really looking for something special, concentrate your efforts on the areas close to the Grand Palace. The Khao San Road/Banglamphu areas have the most spirited water fights, as young people flock to this neighbourhood for this singular purpose. Silom and Royal City Avenue both turn into wet party areas, where water fights can be punctuated with cold drinks.

Wat Pho and Wat Arun (across the river in Thonburi) both have full schedules of ceremonies, merit making, and the chance to pour water on both Buddha images and monks and to receive their blessings.  Visiting wats during Songkran can be really rewarding; often unexpected ceremonies happen as Thais gather to make merit for the new year.

Wats in the Khao San Road/Thanon Phra Athit actually hold a joint Songkran festival from April 9-15, featuring different foods, ceremonies, and activities at different wats. Check out a full schedule of events from the Tourism Authority of Thailand's special Songkran site.

Video courtesy of Nomadic Matt's Round the World travel site.

Tomorrow: Gay Songkran!

Tags: ceremonies, Khao San Road, wats

For the past few days we've written a lot about what to expect during this infamous Songkran holiday. The water and chalk, the washing of the Buddha, the nationwide merriment. But there are a few lesser publicized traditions that happen over these three days which add  a little context Songkran. So let's prematurely explain some of those strange scenarios that may arise during your celebrating.

Why does this stranger want to make me a bracelet?
Tying strings around the wrists of others is a way to express good luck and well wishes for the coming year. If someone approaches you wanting to tie a string around your wrist you should accept that gesture humbly and gracefully. Hold your arm out with your wrist facing the sky and the person will tie the string and recite a short prayer. Tradition says you must not remove the string until it falls off of its own accord.

Tradition holds you wear them till they fall off

What's with all the sandcastles?
Tradition dictates that sand pagodas are to be built inside the property of each temple, or wat. As worshippers come to the temple during Songkran they bring with them a handle of sand. This sand is all gathered, and sometimes even brought in by the truckload, for people to start constructing pagodas. Inside the pagodas coins and money are inserted for good luck. Once completed the pagodas are decorated with flags, candles, joss sticks, shells, flowers and sprinkled with scented water.

The belief behind the sand pagodas is twofold. First, it is thought that by bringing sand into the temple compound worshippers are elevating the level of the property's ground which is often too low during the rainy season. Second, it is believed that every time you leave the temple some sand remains on your shoes and is accidentally removed from the religious property. Bringing sand back to the temple is a form of atonement.

Why is everyone sweeping?
At the very beginning of the holiday, celebrators traditionally clean out their houses, shops, buildings, everywhere, to get rid of anything that was a negative influence over the past year. It is believed that if any of these bad objects or momentos are kept they will bring bad luck for the new year.

And how about those birds being set free?
Throughout the year and especially during Songkran, celebrators set caged birds free and let captive fish loose into rivers and streams. This releasing of the animals back to their natural habitats symbolizes the act of giving freedom and is a form of merit making.

Please help usssss

And now you know.

Tomorrow: Songkran, where to go in Bangkok.

Brazenly spraying small children with water guns and getting attacked by old people with garden hoses is all fun and games, but what's really going on here? It's time to head to the wat for some answers.

At the wat, you are going to find tons of people making merit. Making merit is the concept of doing something selfless for one's community and receiving a celestial point for doing it. Merit is a counterpoint to sins that are committed against the teachings of Buddha.

Fertile recruitment grounds for merit makers

Technically, Buddhists aren't supposed to eat meat or get drunk, so Thais line up in droves to will away all the ghosts of grilled pork washed down with bottles of Singha. The New Year is one of the most auspicious times of the year to make merit.

Merit can be acquired in many ways. Helping old people earns merit, as does showing your appreciation by honouring them (there are several different ceremonies available for today's busy merit maker, including pouring water over their hands and bodies). Merit can also be earned by venerating the Buddha with flowers, incense, scented water, and candles.

During Songkran, the Buddha statues at the wat are scrubbed clean by the monks, and then the religious can make merit by pouring scented water over the Buddha (not his head -- that's considered rude). This water is considered blessed, and is used to honour older relatives.

Middle one needs a bit of a scrub

Everyone is welcome to make merit at the wat: food can be donated to the monks, the Buddha can be venerated with water, flowers and incense, or money can be donated to the wat. Unlike the grumpy Catholics, Buddhists believe that everyone (even non-believers) benefit from participating and making merit, so don't be shy.

Many famous wats around Bangkok have special events happening during Songkran, so take a break from blessing your fellow man with a water gun and make some merit at the wat.

Tomorrow, Songkran's lesser known traditions.

Tags: songkran, wats

With the recent torrential downpours experienced across much of the South of Thailand you'd think the Phuketian Thais would've had enough drenching to last a lifetime. Apparently this is not the case... The dangerous Songkran water festival is responsible for upping the road toll once every 12 months as the Thais drunkenly celebrate the start of their new year, which despite being 500 odd years ahead of 2011 does not yet have any teleportation or flying cars.

Emergency!

What they do have in the year 2554 is guns, lots of guns. Not laser guns, but water pistols. Using these and buckets of water, Thais merrily douse everyone in sight - little kiddies, old biddies ... and many an unsuspecting tourist will get a few face fulls of water too.

Although primarily celebrated in Chiang Mai way up North where it runs for around a week, the fantastic festival of flying fluids occurs all over the country, including right here in Phuket -- albeit for just one day. Come Wednesday, April 13, you'll be soaking in more than just the sun's rays if you're anywhere near Patong or Phuket Town, where much of the action is planned to take place.

Supermarkets and convenience stores in Phuket have stockpiled water pistols of all shapes and sizes, with beachside vendors set to follow suit in the next few days leading up to the event. Wherever you are in Phuket, you'll want to duck into one of the islands ubiquitous 7-Elevens or Family Marts and choose your weapon, find a tap, and lock and load.

A gun to match any outfit

Larger supermarket chains like Carrefour in Jungceylon have the most ample, reasonably priced supply of "waterarms" (like a firearm, only it hurts a bit less when you get shot). You can pick up a sturdy weapon for about 60-180 baht (around $2 - $6US) Just head near the non-beach end of Bangla Rd and ask a local to point you in the right direction. Phonetically, the shopping mall is pronounced; "Junk See Long."

Word on the soi is pre-emptive strikes are expected on Bangla Road as the midnight hour approaches on Tuesday the 12th. So don your face paint, pump up your super-soakers and be prepared for anything as alcohol will surely be involved. And remember: one man's beach is another man's unlimited supply of watery ammo.

No doubt Milne-approved

Songkran is the welcoming of the new year, which is celebrated in the last period during which farming is dormant before the rains come.

Splashing monks in Luang Prabang

Traditional songkran celebrations focus on the renewal of the earth and the home. Wats, homes and Buddhist statues are cleaned. Often, the statues are removed from their wats and paraded around their communities, allowing everyone the chance to make merit by washing them with water, which Buddhists believe will help them achieve a higher ranking in the celestial order when they are reborn.

Water that is used to wash a Buddha image is considered to bring good luck, so it is collected and carried back home to wash the hands and bodies of respected older relatives and friends. When Thais marry, water is poured over their hands, representing abundance and bounty. Ritual water is called nam om, and is perfumed with flowers or essences.  Today's tradition of throwing water at each other is a direct descendant of these earlier, and slightly more gentle rituals. As it comes during the hottest part of the year, when the fields are panting for moisture, a blessing for abundance and bounty is most welcome.

You're next!

Anointing with powder is likely a cultural legacy from when Buddhism arrived in Thailand from India and Burma. Indians of all religious backgrounds use powders to mark different religious blessings; Thai monks often mark blessings on houses and vehicles with chalk. Thais believe that being marked with scented chalk brings good luck and protection.

Time to put the camera away

If these same blessings and protections are provided by soaking an unsuspecting child with a bucket of ice water and a blizzard of chalk is debatable, it is nice to know that the teenagers who just unleashed a garden hose on you were doing it out of benevolent kindness.

Tomorrow: Songkran: What happens at the wat?

Tags: chalk, songkran, water

Welcoming the New Year with a gigantic water fight might seem like the best idea ever, but sometimes our inner curmudgeon says "get off my lawn, you meddling kids" with nary a trace of a smile. What to do? It's time to avoid. Unfortunately, in Thailand, if you want to avoid Songkran it's going to take some serious commitment.

Please knock before splashing

Step 1: Seek shelter.
Choose a place that is comfortable enough for a three-day seclusion. This is a great time to splurge on a Bangkok hotel that is attached to a shopping center so that you can take advantage of indoor shopping, eating, walking, and movies without ever having to run a gauntlet of water guns. Another option is renting a short term stay apartment- many buildings have gyms and pools that you can access, and apartments often have a kitchenette to cater from.

Step 2: Lay in supplies.
Head over to Pantip Plaza and pick up movies for a movie marathon, or to one of the second-hand bookstores along Sukhumvit and make it a literary hermitage.

You'll have plenty of time to perfect your mortar and pestle action

Having an in-room fridge is a huge advantage- check out Tesco Lotus (BTS: National Stadium) or Big C (BTS: Chitlom) for snacks, fresh groceries, and booze. Running low on supplies and worried you'll have to kill and eat your friends? Fear not: www.chefsxp.com will deliver prepared food, beer, liquor, and tobacco so no one has to resort to cannibalism.

Step 3: Batten down the hatches.
Hurray! Slovenliness! All underwear all the time!

Step 4: Avoiding Cabin Fever
Can't stand your mates one more minute? Here's what to do. The vast majority of Bangkok cab drivers leave town during Songkran for the countryside, so by the time you get one waved down on the street you might be rather damp.

When all else fails, hide behind a coconut.

Have your bell man arrange for a cab, or, if you don't have one, call 1661 or 1681 and request one pick you up at your front door.  Both numbers have English speaking operators and charge 20 baht extra for radio service. Lock the doors and away you go, dry as a curmudgeon's shriveled heart.

Tomorrow: What does the chalk and water mean?

Have you had just about enough of Bangkok, thank you very much, with its devil may care attitude and many, many dousing/powderings in celebration of good luck and the new year? A last minute change of scene might be just what you need to truthfully say saawadii pii mai! No really, grab that rain poncho and a pair of swim trunks because it's time to hit the road.

Kanchanaburi
Just a couple of hours west of Bangkok near the border of Burma, Kanchanaburi nestles in the foothills of some small mountains. It's relaxed, inexpensive, and positively empty after Bangkok.

Not a water-throwing, powder-smearing maniac in sight

Rent a motorcycle and ride around in the countryside, stopping for snacks and to laze about by the river. Nearby is Erawan National Falls, where waterfalls cascade down onto hikers climbing up. There is plenty of freshwater swimming and ample opportunity for Songkran related water splashing in a water-splashing appropriate environment. The food is good and the vibe is great.

Ayutthaya
Two hours on a 3rd class train (or an hour on a 2nd class train) drops you off in the sleepy former capital of the Thai Kingdom, Ayutthaya.

Watch out for sharpshooters among the ruins

The Phra Nahkon Sri Ayutthaya Historical Park has a full line up of Songkran festivities on April 13, including pouring water on elephants, bathing the Buddha images, and plenty of monk action. Rent a bike and spend a day and a night cycling lazily around the city and through the temples before hopping the train back to Bangkok.

Koh Si Chang
A small island located off the coast of Si Ratcha, Koh Si Chang (not to be confused with the larger Koh Chang further east) is a fun one-day trip from Bangkok. At least here you'll be wet and by the ocean.

The local fishing fleet has long been suspected of water-pistol smuggling

There's only one town, but the rest of the island is easily accessible my motorcycle cab or walking, and there is nothing to do here, really, except look at the ocean, maybe go in the ocean, and eat things that come from the ocean. It's a great break from Songkran revelry. Buses to Si Ratcha leave every half hour from Ekkamai Station, or there's an early morning train from Hualamphong Station, ferries to Koh Si Chang leave every hour.

Phetburi
Just a handful of hours south on the train, the riverside temple town of Phetburi rarely features on traveller itineraries but it is close to Bangkok, has some decent accommodation, plenty of eateries and makes for a great launching point into the spectacular Kaeng Krachan National Park.

On the lookout for powder bearing sloths

You can do day trips to the park or longer, overnight stays where you either camp out or stay in National Park bungalows. It's best known for its birdlife, hornbills in particular, and best of all, they don't carry water pistols and, as they lack thumbs, can't smear powder.

Tomorrow, Songkran: How to avoid it.

The unfortunate side to any holiday is that the line between fun and danger can be blurred in the blink of an eye. If you keep your wits about you and make smart decisions there is no reason for Songkran to be anything but an absolute blast. Merely remembering mother’s advice and using common sense will be just about all you need to keep yourself safe throughout the festivities.

Road Safety
Road accidents are the number one cause of disaster during the Songkran festival.  It cannot be stressed enough – be careful on the roads. Be careful crossing the street, be careful getting in a taxi, in a tuk tuk, on a motorbike, or driving a vehicle yourself. To put things in real perspective, according to the Bangkok Post during Songkran 2010, 3,802 people were injured in road accidents, and an additional 361 people died. 

And they don't even celebrate Songkran in Bali

Do not get behind the wheel, or the handlebars, if you have been drinking. If you find yourself in a position where it seems the driver, even the taxi driver, has been drinking ask him to pull over. He will and it’s not taboo to ask him to do so. Motorbike taxis are places to be especially cautious and if possible try to avoid them. Does the driver look drunk? There’s a good chance he’s been knocking back whiskey with his buddies.

If you are the driver lock the doors and roll up the windows, otherwise expect for the doors to be opened at red lights and for water to be thrown in your face before you even realize what has happened.

Rowdy Hooligans
Crowds can get pretty thick during the festival so do a bit of planning for Songkran and make sure that all of your essential belongings are zipped away safely. In fact it is probably more of a worry that your things will be soaked or lost rather than deliberately taken. 7-Eleven sells handy little plastic purses that are the right size for a camera, some money and your key. They can be worn around your neck or under your clothes and are a good way to make sure important things, like cameras and credit cards, don’t fall into a knee deep puddle or snagged.

Best to try and stay in control (and watch out for yellow phones)

Ladies, perhaps Songkran isn’t the time to wear your new white tube top. If you look at least somewhat respectable you are far less likely to get unwanted attention, or grabs, from men a few drinks deep.

Cuts and what not
Again at the risk of sounding like your mother, take care of your cuts. You will be soaking wet in intense heat all day long. With all the people and moving around chances are you will arrive home in the evening with a few new mystery nicks. Add on the fact that you will be wearing soggy clothes all day and you are on the fast track to rashes and infection. Take meticulous care of any skin things that come up. Gross as they may be, they will far grosser in the morning.

Above all, remember that this is still Thailand. While during Songkran it may seem like anything goes, do keep in mind that you are still a stranger in a strange land. Repercussions for drug use are still severe and general modesty is still the name of the game. It’s Songkran not Mardi Gras.

And now that the buzz kill is over, enjoy yourself.

Tomorrow, Songkran: overnight trips from Bangkok.

Songkran is the arguably the biggest party of the year in Thailand- it’s New Year's Day, the Fourth of July/Guy Fawkes Day/Canada Day/Australia Day, and the last day of elementary school, all rolled into one huge week.

Songkran was traditionally the time when Thais poured water on statues of Buddha to refresh and clean them, and then captured that water to pour on their elders as a sign of respect. It's a time of renewal and reflection, and of looking forward to the rain that comes soon after the New Year is properly celebrated. Houses are cleaned, Buddha is given a good scrubbing, and everyone goes to the temple to make plenty of merit by giving food and supplies to the monks.

Fast forward a couple hundred years, and Songkran has become less about renewal and reflection and more about getting people wet during the hottest part of the year. Preparation is essential.

Akha saleswomen are notorious for hidden weapons.

I'm scared. What exactly is going to happen?
Don't be scared. But, be forewarned, you are going to be very wet. For three days (April 13-15, and sometimes a day before or after), Thais are going to start getting everyone wet. They'll bring buckets, water guns, hoses, fire cannons, coconut husks, plastic pails -- basically, if it conveys water, water will be thrown from it. Also, people may mix powder with their water, so you end up looking like an Indian holy man who's had a bad week. Or, they may just throw powder on you after you've been soaked.

Uhhhhhhh… awesome?
No really, it's fun. So how to prepare? Plan, provision, protect, defend!

Plan
Pick your Songkran venue. Chiang Mai is always popular, as is Ayutthaya, but travelling over the holiday can be a nightmare. Staying in Bangkok? Hurray! Follow this blog as we prepare for Songkran for some recommendations about where to go in Bangkok during the festival. Book your transport tickets early and get those Khao San Road reservations locked down now -- the whole country is on the move for Songkran.

Looking for a cheap room on Khao San Road across Songkran? Start looking early.

Provision
Stock up on water balloons, water guns, buckets and the like now while you still can. Coming from abroad? Bring the most hilarious water gun you can find. Everyone will love it. Bring appropriate clothes (ladies: remember that white shirts become see-through when wet, gentlemen: same goes for going commando in white shorts). Shoes? Yeah, let's stick with flip flops or some sort of sport sandal. You don't want anything that takes time to dry. Don't forget sunblock, sunglasses (or goggles can be effective for tactical waterfights), and plenty of fresh, dry underwear for afterwards.

Protect
Leave your passport in your hotel room, along with all your valuables. Make a photocopy of the information page of your passport and carry it protected in a plastic zip-closure bag -- it's all the ID you legally need in Thailand. Everyone wants pictures of this fun event, just make sure your camera as prepared for the deluge, and leave those fancy watches behind!

Defend
Everyone is going to be having a fun time, and some people are going to enjoy a cocktail or ten. Be very careful when taking a taxi or motorcycle taxi; it's not uncommon for the drinking to begin before their shift has ended. Also be aware of other drivers as Songkran is the biggest time of year for drunk driving fatalities. Alcohol can make people too bold. Don't feel bad about walking away from people who are being aggressive -- Thais consider aggressive behavior very rude and no one will blame you.

Watch your boozin and biking

Songkran is a really fun event where cultural exchange can happen while also hurling water balloons at 15 year-old kids. A bit of preparation goes a long way towards making that a good thing for everyone.

Tomorrow: Songkran, how to stay safe.