Technically speaking, Bangkok has only three long distance bus terminals. Yet the buzzing streets around Victory Monument are a base for fleets of minibuses, not to mention endless streams of local buses, a BTS station, and enough taxis, motorbikes and tuk tuks to make your head spin. Finding the right minibus can be tricky because virtually all signs are posted only in Thai, and because there are a handful of minibus "zones" servicing different destinations. We've navigated the Victory Monument maze, however, and figured out how and where to catch that minibus so more of your time can be spent enjoying your destination, not trying to get there.

We promise you victory in finding your minibus.

Minibuses ("minibus" is just another term for van) are usually a bit more expensive than traditional buses, but they're considerably faster and more consistent. They also tend to be newer than regular buses so they break down less often, and they're almost always air-conditioned. The minibuses around Victory Monument only serve a general central region of the country, so don't expect to get to Chiang Mai or Hat Yai from here, but some do go as far afield as Chanthaburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Kanchanaburi and Ko Samet.

There are several mini bus companies operating from what we'll call different "zones" (okay they're really just side streets and parking lots) in the immediate Victory Monument area. While some serve different destinations than others, it's possible to get to Pattaya (97 baht) or Hua Hin (180 baht) from any of the zones. There is a good deal of overlap among companies for plenty other destinations, but less frequented spots are only served by one or two companies. Virtually all fares fall in the 100 to 200 baht range, with less distant destinations like Don Muang airport (30 baht), Suvarnabhumi airport (40 baht) and Ayutthaya (70 baht) costing less.

You could always just hop in and see where you end up.

To make it as simple as possible, let's use the Victory Monument BTS (sky train) station as our starting point. To find our first minibus zone, head out of the BTS station at exit 4, go down the stairs, and then walk straight along the footpath for a short distance. Here you'll find one of the larger and more organised minibus stations -- it even has proper ticket windows rather than makeshift sales counters on the street.

Minibuses are available from here to Chachoengsao, Bang Khla, Amphawa, Samut Songkhram, Phetburi, Pak Chong (Khao Yai), Ratchaburi, and Lopburi. As with all the zones, signs are listed in Thai only (apart from Pattaya and Hua Hin), but you should only need to mention your destination before one of the roaming minibus guys shuffles you off to the right vehicle. Prices are fixed and instances of attempted scamming are rare.

If you take the same exit 4 out of the BTS station but pull a U-turn at the bottom of the stairs, another large row of buses are just a short walk away. From here you can also get to Ratchaburi as well as Nakhon Pathom, Kanchanaburi, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chonburi, Nakhon Sawan, Rayong, and Ko Samet.

Your friendly minibus ticketing agents.

To reach an altogether different zone, head towards exits 3 and 4 out of the BTS station but pass the exits, continue straight along the sky walk, and then take your first left down the stairs. Go straight into the footpath market maybe 30 metres, and then look to the left. Here you'll find a side street that winds beside the market where minibuses may be caught to Nakhon Ratchasima, Pak Chong (Khao Yai), Ratchaburi, Nakhon Sawan,  Muang Gan, Nakhon Nayok, Minburi and Ayutthaya. If in need of fuelling up before your journey this area is a great place to enjoy some tasty street eats.

To reach our last minibus zone, head straight out of the sky train station towards exits 3 and 4 and continue on past the exits to the sky walk again, but this time turn to the right and walk a bit just beneath the sky train track. Look for the "Fashion Mall" shopping complex on the right, and take the stairs nearest to it. At the bottom, head straight across the street to Ratchawithi Soi 10, where you'll find minibuses to Chantaburi, Trat, and Suvarnabhumi airport, along with several other destinations mentioned above. Back across the street at Soi 11 there's also a minibus that runs to Don Muang airport.

And away you go!

Minibuses to virtually all these destinations depart every 30 minutes to an hour between 06:00 and 17:00 every day, with several buses to major destinations running up until 21:00. Keep in mind however that traffic around the monument can grind to a crawl during rush hours (around 08:00 and 18:00). Victory Monument is located in north-central Bangkok, in the bustling but sparsely touristed Din Daeng area.

And, there you have it -- if you want to get out of Bangkok fast, head to Victory Monument and you could be whizzing through countryside in no time.

Tags: minibus, victory monument

For an easy day trip out of the city with a dose of culture, head to Ko Kret; just don’t expect the white sandy beaches of Ko Phi Phi or Ko Samui. A rustic island on the Chao Praya River, Ko Kret is home to a community of Mon people and is famed for its handcrafted pottery. Like many unique cultural sites turned tourist destinations, Ko Kret can feel somewhat like a mini-Chatuchak market, existing only to satisfy the consumer urges of those passing through. But it still has charm, and is easily accessible from the centre of Bangkok. Here's how to get to Ko Kret from central Bangkok.

Where all taxis and buses converge: Victory Monument.

The easiest and priciest way to make the trip is on a river cruise -- these run on Sundays. The Chao Phraya Express Boat offers an informative cruise that stops in Ko Kret and multiple historic wats priced at 550 baht per person. The Thai River Cruise also offers tour packages, which include visits to other sites such as the Grand Palace along the way (for approximately 2,300 baht per person). Many other boat companies have similar itineraries -- the men aggresively touting at Central Pier near the Saphan Taksin BTS will be more than happy to give you more information. Arrive no later than 08:30 to choose your company and reserve a spot.

The quickest way to get to Ko Kret is to take the BTS to Victory Monument, then get off and walk towards the buses on the west side of the monument. Take the expressway bus 166, which will take you approximately 30-40 minutes (19 baht). Ask the bus driver to notify you when you reach Ko Kret. When you get off, walk for two minutes towards the pier, located behind Wat Sanam Neua. From there, take an eye-blink of a boat ride across the river to Ko Kret (2 baht).

If you are not in a rush and need a little nature for your retinas, the long, scenic route is to take the Chao Praya Express boat (just jump on the boat and pay once you are on -- do not opt for a tourist ticket) to the very end of the line, Nonthaburi. From there, you can take the 32, 51 or 104 bus to the pier (19 baht), where you can catch the small boat to cross the river to Ko Kret (2 baht). If you don't speak Thai, come with some key phrases written down in case you lose your way. Otherwise, you can negotiate a longtail boat from Nonthaburi itself, though be prepared to put your bargaining face on. Allow a good three hours to get there, and consider the second option for the way back!

For a pottery excursion closer to home, visit the alms bowls at Bangkok's Baan Baat, or for a full-day of pottery ask the river cruise organisers at Saphan Taksin to take you to both Baan Baat and Ko Kret.

Tags: Ko Kret

Feeling bored in Bangkok? Have you dried up like a coconut husk from a lack of excitement? It's time for a day of random travel, Bangkok style. Random travel is simply that: motion for the sake of moving. The details of a culture are definitely written in the way that daily life is lived -- Thailand is at its most interesting when it doesn't know it's being watched. The Grand Palace and famous wats are great, but wandering away from it all can be a rewarding view into the way that Thais really live -- monks on alms rounds, groups of school children on their way home, motorcycle cab drivers napping the hot afternoon away.

Open windows, cold beer, palm trees. WIN.

A good way to spend an afternoon is to ride one of the commuter trains out into the suburbs and take a look around. Train timetables can be found online at the State Railway of Thailand's website and once you arrive it's time to explore the Thai way: by eating and walking around.

Our normal itinerary is a snack, then search for a temple or wat (or whatever -- this is how we once found a random museum of looms used to weave in Hua Thake), then some green space for a bit of a rest (and an iced coffee), then more food, and then back on the train home.

Most commuter trains run quite often so it's easy to manage an afternoon without risking being stuck (although there's nearly always a way back) -- just ask the ticket agent to book you a return when you leave to ensure there is an inbound train.

On the train to Mahachai.

Bangkok is big and spread out, but grab a window seat and watch the suburbs give way to rice paddy, coconut palms, and water buffalo in the course of an hour -- travel in the most freeing sense of the word!

Tags: Grand Palace, trains

Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport might be a sprawling mess, but you'll have to navigate it at some point in your travels -- here's the second part of our guide on how to travel into Bangkok once you've cleared immigration. Check out part I for info on trains and cabs into the city.

Baby it's hot outside; for god's sake let's take the train.

Bus and public vans

The old Airport Express bus services (including the one to Khao San Road) have been cancelled. It's around the same price to take the airport rail to Phaya Thai and then a taxi to Khao San Road, even for one person, so it's not a huge loss. City bus service and public vans leave from the public transit centre (take shuttle bus Line A from door three or door eight on the first floor). Of particular interest to travellers is line 555 (to Rangsit, stopping at Don Muang domestic airport, 65 minutes, 03:30-22:00, 23 baht) and line 556 (to the Southern Bus Terminal, 90 minutes, 06:00-21:00, 23 baht). Both buses and public vans of the same number run the same route -- public vans are faster but more expensive (usually twice the bus price), but both options are subject to the vagaries of Bangkok traffic.

Limos

The representatives for Airports of Thailand Limos can be pushy as you leave immigration and customs -- ignore them! Unless you really need to be driven around in a Mercedes (and if you do, you probably don't read Travelfish.org), this option isn't worth it, but it can be easy to be bullied into it if you aren't careful, so be warned! Limos cost from 500-1500 baht for the first 15 kilometres, based on the quality of car you choose. Travelling all the way into the city will cost at least 1,500 baht or more.

Khao San Road on a shoestring

The absolute cheapest way to get to Khao San Road (apart from walking) is to take the public bus to Victory Monument from the airport (every hour, 05:00-22:00, 18 baht) and then transfer to bus line 201 (every 20 minutes, from the southwest corner of Victory Monument traffic circle, 04:00-22:00, 14 baht). Depending on traffic and connections, this can take as little as 90 minutes (you'll be very lucky) or as long as eternity (consider how good your karma is: will the universe choose to repay you on this bus journey?). You've been warned.

Skipping Bangkok? Here's how to leap frog the Big Mango. Have luggage you'd rather not haul with you? Here's how to store it. Need some last second souvenirs? Here's the shopping scoop.

Tags: buses, limos, public vans, suvarnabhumi airport

Suvarnabhumi Airport is celebrating it's fifth anniversary; love it or hate it, it's one of Southeast Asia's largest hubs. Suvarnabhumi serves around 100 different airlines and almost 45 million passengers a year, all of whom are ready to get the airport behind them and onto the beaches or mountains they came for. Suvarnabhumi is around 30 kilometres from the centre of Bangkok. With the opening of a rail link last year, many of the services originally providing transport from the airport were reconfigured -- we've got a comprehensive guide to get you from Suvarnabhumi to where you want to be. (If that's giving Bangkok a miss all together, check out our guide to skipping the Big Mango). This post covers rail and taxi while Part II deals with buses, vans, and the cheapest option to Khao San Road. Need a place to stay near the airport? Check out our airport accommodation guide.

This train waits for no man (nor traffic).

Rail

Considering the traffic that can choke Bangkok, it's hard to beat the Airport Rail Link. Local trains make the journey in 24 minutes from the airport station to Makkasan (transfer to the MRT) or 28 minutes to Phaya Thai (transfer to the BTS) for a maximum fare of 45 baht. Local trains depart every 10 to 20 minutes. Express trains shave off a few minutes and go directly to either Makkasan (every 20 minutes, 15-minute journey) or Phaya Thai (every hour, 18-minute journey) and cost 90 baht each way or 150 baht round trip (two-week validity).

If you are going somewhere not convenient to one of the Airport Rail Link stations (or the MRT/BTS system), it can still be faster to take the train into the city during rush hour (07:30-09:30 and 16:30-20:30) and then catch a cab in the city centre.

Taxi
Metered taxis are found on the first floor of the arrivals area. Line up behind the taxi stand and tell the dispatcher where you are going -- they will note your destination on a receipt and assign you to a driver. If the driver asks for a flat fare, politely refuse and ask for the meter (chai meter, in Thai). If they refuse, get out and go back to the dispatcher. Passengers pay a 50 baht surcharge on top of the meter rate, as well as any expressway charges (45-70 baht depending on where you are going).

Eastern Bangkok is around 200 baht, central Bangkok closer to 300-350 baht, and Khao San Road 350 to 400 baht. If the lines are long, taxis can often be caught (technically this is illegal for the driver) from the fourth floor departures area after they drop off passengers. It's not really fair to the other drivers who have waited and followed the rules, but it's an option if there is a massive line up downstairs.

You can now read part II of our series here.

Tags: Airport Rail Link, bts, Suvarnabhumi, taxis

Headed off to Chiang Mai in Thailand's north or the beaches down south (or to Penang, Kuala Lumpur, or Singapore)? Want to explore Isaan by motorbike or strike out east into Cambodia? Who's your best friend for all these long sojourns? The train.

Train at a rural platform.

Taking the train is how lots of Thais travel; you'll notice that there are no Thais on the buses that leave from Khao San Road and there is a reason for that: those services are terrible. Taking the train from Bangkok to Singapore might be for train-travel romantics (it takes two days), but rail service in Thailand is great -- inexpensive, fairly efficient, and organised. Here's how to get yourself sorted from Bangkok.

Your first port of call for planning your trip should be the website of the State Railway of Thailand. All of their timetables can be found, as well as fares and a function that allows you to check the number of seats available. If you are certain of your plans, you can buy your tickets online and print them out before hand -- however, a SRT employee confirmed that the e-reservation system doesn't have access to all available seats so if it shows a train is all full, a visit to a ticket office might still be in order. Information is available 24 hours a day (in both Thai and English) by dialing 1690 from within Thailand (unfortunately this service is not available from outside Thailand).

If you are trying to travel during the New Year's holidays (Dec 30-Jan 3) or Songkran (April 13-15) or the week preceding or following the holidays, a booking is essential. Tickets can be booked 60 days ahead at any railway station in Thailand. In Bangkok, Hualamphong is the main station (and closest for Khao San Road), but depending on where you are staying other stations might be better: Sam Sen Station (more convenient if staying north of Khao San Road), Bang Sue Station (northern terminus of the subway line) and Makkasan Station (closest rail station to Sukhumvit area hotels) are all full service stations.

Train waits to depart Hualamphong.

First class cabins and second class sleeping berths (think that old movie "Some Like it Hot") are available, as well as standard chair cars, although not always on the same train. Enforcement of ticket purchases on third-class-only trains can be rather spotty, especially in rural areas. Try to pay, but if no one seems interested in taking your money (fairly common), don't worry about it. Trains are sometimes a bit slower than the bus, but you'll laugh your way out of the city as you sip a beer in the open-air dining car, gliding through the gridlock.

Tags: Bang Sue, Hualamphong, Makkasan, Sam Sen, trains

Tis the season to be jolly, or if you are in Thailand, hang out by the beaches, trek alongside elephants, or stand under a waterfall. Thailand, a Buddhist country, may not have a traditional white Christmas, but there are plenty of easy-to-get-to getaways just outside of Bangkok for fun in the sand. If you’re looking for a Christmas chill, or at least temperatures below scorching, one non-beach option is Kanchanaburi, two to three hours (139 km) west of Bangkok along the River Kwai.

Believe it or not, it still runs trains daily.

The main tourist attraction is the Death Railway Bridge , a creaky iron structure built by prisoners of war and later a prime target of Allied bombing raids. You can wax historic at any number of the museums dedicated to showcasing Kanchanaburi’s involvement in WWII, including the WII Museum, Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery, the JEATH War Museum, Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery, and the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre -- you can see a full list of things to do here.

You'll also no doubt hear about the Tiger Temple, a strange place for tourists to take pictures with sedated looking tigers. We don't recommend a visit; if you’re considering visiting, please read this first.

But the real gem of Kanchanaburi is the sleepy River Kwai itself, which flows sleepily through the town -- there are plenty of riverside places to stay.

Sunset from Keeree Tara (aka the best meal you will eat in Kanchanaburi).

The food alone is enough of a reason to come to Kanchanaburi. You can eat river prawns and pineapple fried rice inside a carved coconut at Keree Tara Restaurant, a modern eatery with oh-so-fresh tastes and delectable views. At night, the river sparkles, and you can take a river (and karaoke!) cruise to enjoy all of its splendour. Finish off the day strong by hitting up the Night Bazaar by the bus station and then bar-hopping along Maenam Kwai Road.

The riverside city is a bit too big to get around on your feet; the best and most enjoyable way to see the sights while still catching the river breeze is by renting a bicycle.

To fully appreciate what Kanchanaburi and its surrounds has to offer, take a day trip to Erawan National Park or Sai Yok Park, both with a 200 baht entry fee for tourists. You can visit waterfalls, kayak through limestone caves with hidden Buddhist temples, take a bamboo raft along the river, and feed elephants. Now, how’s that for a merry Christmas or a happy Hannukah?

Nothing more romantic than a train ride, eh?

To get to Kanchanaburi, buses leave from the Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes to Kanchanaburi’s bus station for 100 baht. Or catch a minibus at Victory Monument/Khao San Road, which will leave as soon as it fills up. Prices may vary depending on the company, but expect to pay 100 to 200 baht. For a slow and scenic journey, take the Bangkok Noi-Nam Tok train line, which leaves from Bangkok Noi Station in Thonburi and takes around three hours (100 baht). You can find a more detailed schedule here.

Keeree Tara Restaurant
43/1, Tha Makham
T: (034) 624 093
www.keereetara.com
Open 11:00-24:00

Tags: bangkok to kanchanaburi, Erawan National Park, kanchanaburi, keree tara, national parks, River Kwai, tiger temple, waterfalls

Bangkok's futuristic Suvarnabhumi Airport has been in the news in recent weeks as Thai authorities fought (successfully) to protect it from the floods that ravaged Thailand. Within the sprawling airport though, you'd never know this was going on. A cool lush atmosphere fills the cavernous wings that lunge out to aircraft and, intentionally or not, the suspended lighting lends a tropical feel to it. They've always reminded us of futuristic palm trees hanging from the sky with their pesky trunks removed. Watch out for coconuts.

Watch out for coconuts.

Tags: airports, bangkok airport, suvarnabhumi airport

You have some time to kill before a big trip, or a weekend to spare. You want to stay near Bangkok but get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Ko Samet is in no way an overseas destination island -- that is, if you’re travelling to Thailand for the first time and want a beach getaway, don’t make Ko Samet the only stop on your list. But Ko Samet is an easy bus and ferry ride away from Bangkok, with clear waters, sandy stretches, and lots of nighttime fun. The name “Samet” comes from the flower-bearing Cajeput trees, which are in abundance all over the island and known for their healing properties within aromatherapy.

Waves by the sea shore.

Ko Samet attained national park status in 1981, but you would never know except for the 400 baht entry fee you must pay upon arrival. The teardrop shaped island is densely populated with hotels, restaurants, bars, and even fire throwers at night. While the northeastern strip is packed (Hat Sai Kaew beach being the most developed), the western and northern parts of the island are relatively quiet. If you want some beach time peace away from the thick of it all, try Ao Phrao. The whole island is only eight kilometres long and filled with dense forests in the interior.

Ko Samet is really into hanging lights from trees. It's kind of their thing.

Getting there

Distance from Bangkok: 200 km

Total travel time: 4 hours

From Bangkok, take a bus from the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai Station) directly to Ban Phe in Rayong. Buses leave hourly from around 5:00–20:00, and are three to three-and-a-half hours long (157 baht, including air-con, water and a snack). You can also take a two-and-a-half hour bus from Ekkamai to Rayong leaving from 4:00–22:00 (140 baht), and from there take a short songthaew (around 30 baht) or motorcycle to Ban Phe.

Ticket booth to semi-paradise

Rival ticket booth to semi-paradise.

From Pattaya or Ko Chang, minivan services are available to Ban Phe. If you decide to spend the night in Rayong, you can easily find accommodation to break up your trip. Though the beaches are not developed and transportation difficult to come by, there are actually quite a few sleepy beach towns on the mainland popular for Thai vacationers, including Laem Charoen and Hat Mae Rampeung. For other vacation destinations outside of Bangkok, look here.

Alternatively, you can hire a private taxi for around 2,500 baht to take you directly from Bangkok to Ban Phe to cut down on travel time. Buses are also available from the Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal to Rayong and minibuses from Victory Monument directly to the ferry piers (250 baht). However, travelling from Ekkamai station is the most regular and reliable route.

Nuan Thip Pier at Ban Phe (it’s impossible to miss) services ferries to Na Dan, the fishing village and de facto capital of Ko Samet. The ferries should leave hourly and cost 50 baht one-way, 100 baht roundtrip from 8:00–16:00, 30 minutes from pier to pier. You will also have the option of purchasing a round trip ferry ticket along with your bus ticket in Ekkamai, but do so at your own risk, as the verification is the size of a stamp and as thin as toilet paper, and easily lost inside a packed backpack. There is no discount for buying a ferry ticket in Bangkok or roundtrip at the pier. Ferries from Ban Phe also depart to Ao Wong Deuan (3 km southwest of Hat Sai Kaew) on a less regular basis for 120 baht roundtrip.

A short ferry ride from Ban Phe, and you're there.

If you are getting in late or are travelling with a large party, it might make more sense to take a private charter, accommodating up to 10 people, leaving at all hours of the day and night (1,200 baht to Na Dan, depending on demand, and other beaches on the island upon request).

Ferry party boat.

Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai Station)
Sukhumvit Rd, near BTS Ekkamai
T: (02) 391 8097

Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit)
Kampheng Phet Rd, a short taxi or public bus ride from BTS Mo Chit
T: (02) 576 5599

Victory Monument Mini Bus Station
Phaya Thai Road, near BTS Victory Monument

Tags: Bangkok, ferry, Ko Samet, rayong

It's not been the end that most would hope for -- a clean whooshing sound as all of the flood water washed out to sea and left Bangkok licking its wounds and restocking its 7-Elevens. The floods are *not* over -- not for millions in the northern suburbs, not for millions who live across the river in the Thonburi half of Bangkok, not for hundreds of thousands north of Bangkok who are just starting to shovel the deposited mud from their drying homes. That said, the flood waters that were creeping south towards Victory Monument and Siam Square have stopped creeping, and in some places, started to recede.

Monks transit a flooded pier, Bangkok.

The most central part of Bangkok, including Sathorn and Silom, Khao San Rd, Sam Sen, Victory Monument, Democracy Monument, Ari, Sukhumvit and Siam Square, are dry now and will not be flooded, barring some phenomenal change in situation. So what are we left with at this point?

The international airport, Suvarnabhumi, is operating as normal, as it has been throughout this crisis. The domestic airport, Don Muang, is closed and still submerged. Estimates to when it will reopen fluctuate wildly, but it won't open until the New Year at the earliest. Nok Air and Orient Thai are both operating from Suvarnabhumi.

Inner-city rail service is operating as normal, with the Airport Rail Link, BTS Skytrain and MRT Subway systems all operating a good service. Some entrances at MRT stations have been barricaded, but all stations are operating. Bus service in Bangkok is operating as normal in most areas, with a few detours around deeply flooded areas in the north and west of the city. Taxis and tuk tuks are running like always.

Slowing drying neighborhoods.

Intra-city rail services to the East and Northeast are operating relatively normally, with minor re-routing through eastern parts of Bangkok to avoid flooded tracks. Similarly, services to the North, including Chiang Mai, have been restored using an alternate route. The journey takes an extra five hours. Southern destinations depart from Nakhon Pathom station about an hour west of Bangkok -- ticket holders are bussed from Hualamphong station. More information available by phone on 1690 from the State Railways of Thailand.

Bus services to affected parts of the North are running for the most part, using alternate routes where necessary. Mo Chit Bus Terminal and Ekkamai Terminal are both operating, however the Southern Bus Terminal has been relocated to Holland Beer House because of high water, but bus service to the south continues uninterrupted.

Chao Phraya Express Boat services are cancelled at least until the end of November as their refuelling terminal is still submerged, but most cross-river services are operational. Saen Saeb Canal Ferry services are running normally now.

Going to be a lot of sandbags to get rid of. Chao Phraya Beach?

So what's to stop you from coming to Bangkok? Well, it's still an unstable situation with a lot of water needing to move through and around the city before the crisis is over. Outside of that, however, not much at all. Drinking water is available (although the supply is a bit spotty -- you might have to check a few shops), and the Kingdom hasn't run out of food or beer or booze. The lights are on and almost all of the tourist attractions are open (and don't believe a single tuk tuk driver who tells you otherwise). Keep your eye on the news to make sure nothing has changed, but Thailand needs your tourist dollars now more than ever. Come and spend them.

Tags: bangkok floods, buses, Chao Phraya Express, floods, thai floods, trains