Khmer graffiti on a plant outside Wat Banan, built in the 11th century, before Angkor Wat.

Psar Nat, Battambang's centrally-located market and modernist architectural masterpiece. The face of the (broken) clock reads "Cigarettes".

Guarding the grapevines outside the tasting room at Chan Thai Chhoeung's winery. The sign reads "Don't touch the fruit".

Khmer girl in front of the bamboo railway. Her job is to help convince tourists to stay long enough to buy a soda from her grandfather's shop.

Battambang is known for its well-preserved French colonial architecture from the early 1900s.

Palm trees and barbed wire surround the vineyards of Cambodia's only winery. Most of the vines have been imported from California.

Pork for sale at Psar Nat. Chruk mien nyonyum sa'at.

Often described as a 'mini Angkor Wat', Wat Banan is still picturesque, despite having most of its most beautiful carvings looted or transferred to Battambang's museum. The area around the temple was one of the last holdouts of the Khmer Rogue in the 1990s and is still thought to contain many landmines.

Ban hoi, a Vietnamese-inspired dish with grilled pork, rice noodles, fried egg rolls and fresh herbs that shows up on many Cambodian breakfast menus.

The bar at La Villa Restaurant, in a restored colonial building from the 1930s. Among other things, they serve locally made Banon Brandy.

The "bamboo train" or "norries" are the stuff of Battambang legend, and set to close down for good sometime in the next month.

Woman selling straw mushrooms and various other fruits and vegetables in the morning at Psar Nat. Because her stall is outside the market, she wears numerous layers to protect herself from the sun.