Visitors to Phnom Penh are sometimes surprised at the cost of food, but it’s perfectly possible to eat for $5 — or 20,000 riel — a day if you know where to look. The first trick to cheap meals is to put aside thoughts of familiar nosh and get experimental. A Western breakfast can set you … read the full post

While some might argue that a large bowl of glistening French fries is the best accompaniment to any dish, sometimes it doesn’t quite do the trick. In fact, what might work best is simply a better view, and this can be hard to come by in Siem Reap. The colour green is said to create feelings … read the full post

I recently discovered that German baronesses and French princesses can be counted among my forebears, which might explain why I’ve still never set foot in a KFC. It would have been better if the witches hadn’t apparently spent absolutely everything, leaving me with nothing but their tastes, but this is what I’m now stuck with: … read the full post

In Siem Reap, there is an area behind the Central Market that is easy to overlook and you wouldn’t have missed out on much in the past by doing so. But that is beginning to change. In between the two roads that run east from Central Market is a little half-road, fed by two perpendicular … read the full post

Cambodian food does get a bit of a bad rap compared to its neighbours, for numerous reasons of varying soundness, and it can seem incongruous therefore to even associate the words “posh”, “Khmer” and “nosh” (a bit like trying to think of snazzy Welsh food), but associate them you can, and the rewards for doing … read the full post

Being born French is nature’s way of fondly ruffling your hair and gently patting you on the bum before letting you off to play in the world safe in the knowledge that you’re one of the favoured. Because while it’s possible that the French may indeed have the most terrifying children’s books in the world, … read the full post

I’m not American, which you can tell by the fact that I eat burgers with a knife and fork (frankly, the concept of having to unhinge your jaw in order to put food in your mouth seems freakish and bizarre), have an almost disturbing neurosis about “proper” spelling, and get very twitchy when someone asks … read the full post

When it’s as hot in Siem Reap as it has been lately (though do we dare for a respite after the last few days of storms), there’s not a great deal you can do except restrict movement as much as possible (mainly so that you don’t skid in great lakes of your own sweat and … read the full post

The English have a quaint little phrase to the effect that horses sweat, men perspire, but women glow. Which is all very well if your name happens to be Fanny or Violet, but I actually thought I might be the first person in history to be electrocuted by their own body fluids as I slaved … read the full post

It’s possible that Caesar salad may be the first truly globalised recipe (provided one excludes the fat, salt, sugar and multiple-chemical delivery systems marketed by fast food dealers). The popular assemblage, once the preserve of restaurants with Maitre d’s that let you know you’d failed by the precise way they called you “Sir” or “Madame”, … read the full post