Yes two whole blog posts on Lamphun! (Whatever next -- a feature on Phichit!?) Actually one of the best things about Lamphun is getting there -- or away -- with the Old Lamphun Road being one of the most scenic roads in the kingdom. The views aren't anything special but it's the road itself that's attractive, with nearly the whole 25km length being lined by tall gracious yang trees. (Note yang is rubber in Thai, though these clearly aren't rubber trees so we're not quite sure what they are. If anyone can enlighten us please do!)

Scenic tree-lined traffic policeman.

The Old Lamphun Road is a continuation of Chang Klan Road and makes for a great, shady cycle or motorbike ride -- see map here.

Storm brewing over Prathat Haripunchai.

Anyway Lamphun being perhaps slightly too far to go just to check out one single wat -- see our earlier post here -- our clear second favourite  temple in town was Wat Phrathat Haripunchai. It's actually the number one destination in Lamphun for local tourists and is indeed one of the most venerated sites in northern Thailand. As we mentioned before, Haripunchai is the name of the old Mon city on the site of modern Lamphun and the main stupa -- bit of a ringer for a smaller version of Burma's famous Shwedagon -- is thought to date originally from the ninth century. The wat thus shows Mon, Lanna and Burmese architectural influences since the city was ruled by all three at various times.

Main stupa. Put your sunnies on!

It's therefore a busy temple -- Wat Cham Devi's tranquil site being the reason why we voted it first -- with plenty of visitors from Bangkok and day trippers from Nakhon Sawan, Phitsanolok and so on -- so plenty of vendors and indeed a large OTOP (One Tambon One Product, tambon being district) market opposite the entrance by the Ping River.

The Lanna-style library.

While on the subject of selling things in temples, we'd like to point out that the sadly common practice of selling small caged birds for release in the hope that it gets you some kind of Buddhist brownie points is for us totally abhorrent -- and we'd be very grateful if you didn't  buy any. Half the birds die anyway and most others are re-caught. (Some locals claim the birds are addicted to methamphetamines so they automatically fly back for their dose -- not sure if that is true but can't imagine Buddha in any way supporting this scheme!)

Gold leaf covered stupa

Much more attractive is the spectacular gold leaf chedi: the temple's central feature and if you want to find a more eco-friendly way of accumulating Buddhist air-miles then the thing to do is to walk around it three times in a clockwise direction.

Circumnavigating it anti-clockwise could be fatal!

This can be a bit of a circus, especially at weekends, but it's worth a look if you're in town. Entrance fee is 20 baht for foreigners.

I'll guarantee he doesn't approve of cruelty to small birds.

Tags: Wat Haripunchai, yang trees

Well, more accurately what we enjoyed visiting most in Lamphun was Wat Chama Devi (or Thewi). Without meaning to be rude, and while being a pleasant-enough spot, the small, sleepy, provincial town of Lamphun isn't exactly the tourist epicentre of northern Thailand.

Wat Chama Devi.

However in an earlier Mon, Dvaravati period incarnation as Haripunchai it was indeed the most important city of the northern region. Historians don't seem too sure but the city appeared on the map during the late seventh century, but it probably existed as a minor chiefdom even earlier than that, when it was captured by Chama Devi, princess and daughter of the king of Lavo (Lopburi). Under her guidance Haripunchai developed into a major northern outpost of the Dvaravati civilisation of the Chao Phraya valley.

The temple, also known as Wat Kukut, was reputedly built during the reign of Chama Devi's son in the early eighth century and the old Mon-style chedi is said to contain the ashes of the great queen herself.

Eighth century stupa containing the ashes of Queen Chama Devi.

The Lopburi dynasty then continued to reign at Haripunchai, despite attacks from various Angkor kings, until the mid-13th century when it was finally captured by the Lanna king Mengrai after he'd established his new capital at nearby Chiang Mai. Despite being much older than its neighbouring cities of Chiang Mai, Phayao and even Chiang Saen, little remains today apart from some city walls and a moat -- and Wat Chama Devi houses the best examples of Dvaravati period architecture with its two ancient chedis.

Ancient Mon inscription discovered in the temple.

The brick city walls resemble those of Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, but note the Mon planned irregular shaped towns where defensive walls fitted into the terrain rather than being rigidly geometric, as with Lanna or Khmer cities. Major temples were also often located outside the city walls -- Wat Chama Devi is located a distance to the west of the oval-shaped old city centre constructed along the banks of the Ping River.

Most of the wat consists of recent constructions and indeed there's a brand new museum -- we assume dedicated to the famous Queen -- situated in the grounds which hasn't even opened yet so we can't tell you what's inside.

Worshipper at the wat.

The main viharn building did contain some interesting murals, consisting mainly of historical scenes from the life of Chama Devi rather than the usual life of Buddha ones.

The Queen's soldiers and followers entering the gates of Haripunchai.

Chama Devi leads her army down the Ping River.

Set in pleasant grounds with some lush plant life and even a couple of spectacular drums on display (see below) it made for an interesting diversion that we enjoyed far more than the better known and more prestigious Wat Prathat Haripunchai, the main temple of the central part of town. We also had Wat Chama Devi completely to ourselves, whereas the latter was heaving with local tourists and vendors.

A serious drum!

Suspect some of the monks of being Liverpool supporters!?

While I'm not sure it warrants an overnight stay -- though there are plenty of options if you wish to stay over -- it certainly makes for a good afternoon out. Note Lamphun is only 26 km from Chiang Mai and by bike or motorcycle it's a great trip along the tree-lined Old Lamphun Road. We however paid 600 baht for a taxi/songthaew for the afternoon.

Tags: Angkor, Chiang Rai, Chiang Saen, Dvaravati, Lanna, Lopburi, Mengrai, Mon, Phayao, temples