Coffee often seems to be the lifeblood of Vietnam — well, along with beer, tea, rice and pho. You really can't walk far without the tempting aroma of coffee greeting your nostrils, and a hit of the particularly strong brew is enough to keep you going for hours.

A quiet moment.

Yes, Vietnamese coffee is certainly known for being strong, and is perhaps an acquired taste for many — whether a coffee connoisseur or just someone who likes a shot of caffeine in the morning.

If you like your coffee black then ask for cafe den, but if you prefer a bit of sweetness and creaminess you'll want cafe sua; this comes with  a shot of condensed milk in the bottom of the cup or glass, so be sure to give it a good stir before drinking. If you want milk but no sugar, you will probably be out of luck. Both are available as nong (hot) or da (with ice). Some places will serve it ready percolated, but at other joints you'll be given the cup with a mini cafetiere perched on top and have to wait for the hot water to drip through.

There are various other coffee options including cafe trung (with egg) and cafe sua chua (with yoghurt) — more on the latter in a later post.

Unlike tea, which is available all over the place for a few thousand dong, coffee is a somewhat more civilised and pricey — though still cheap — affair. When looking for somewhere for your coffee, the two basic options are the streetside no frills joints or the chain coffee shops.

I'd say skip the chains and give the local places a go, as much for the atmosphere as for the coffee. Areas to head to in Old Quarter include the southern end of Hang Giay, or further afield try Trieu Viet Vuong, which is lined with coffee shops including Cong Caphe (at 152D). But really, they're everywhere.

If you don't get enough of it while here, plenty of places sell packs of beans or ground arabica, robusta or weasel to take home. You heard right: weasel. For those unfamiliar with this unusual blend, the basic story behind the product is that weasels eat the coffee beans, they pass through the digestive system and are excreted, and then processed. Apparently this makes for a less bitter blend, but it didn't go down too well when I took some back to the UK as a gift. I've heard that some of the product sold as weasel coffee in Vietnam is fake — it wouldn't surprise me — but I'm not sure how you can test that one.

I'm not sure if that's real Chinese.

For stockists, try Hang Giay, where there are at least three or four vendors, or there's a shop near the junction of Luong Ngoc Quyen and Ma May. Or for a higher class of packaging, Indigenous on Au Trieu is worth a visit.

Tags: coffee, Indigenous

Located 120 kilometres south of Hanoi, Cuc Phuong national park was established in 1962 and is the oldest national park in Vietnam. Consisting of more than 200 square kilometres of tropical forest and many grottoes, the reserve is rich in wildlife and natural beauty and also possesses historical significance, as prehistoric tools and ancient tombs have been discovered in some of the caves.

View from path to observation point.

The best way to explore the park is by a combination of motorbike or bicycle and foot. The park centre lies 20 kilometres from HQ and reception and is along a paved road, meaning it’s not much fun to walk. It’s not a great deal of fun to cycle either — it’s a hilly road with plenty of 10% inclines to get those legs working – but anyone with a relative degree of fitness will be fine. Both motorbikes and bicycles are available to rent at reception.

You'll see some sights en route to the centre: Mac Lake is less than two kilometres from reception and so reachable on foot. The lake itself is pretty enough and there is accommodation and a restaurant along its banks. Around five kilometres further on is the cave of prehistoric man, now apparently a refuge for bats. It’s a short but steep walk up to the cave and you will need a torch inside; they are available to rent from the hut next to the car park for 10,000 VND.

The park centre itself houses a restaurant, a cafe, a shop and more accommodation, and is the start point for a six kilometre walk to the thousand year old tree. The walk is a great way to stretch your legs if you’ve travelled by motorbike, and for those interested in botany there’s plenty to study on the way. You can also take a short detour to visit the Palace Cave. The tree itself is impressive but not worth more than a few minutes, although there’s space to sit and rest ready for the return journey.

It does say no climbing on the tree ...

There are two options for the return journey: head back the way you came or continue on the loop. Few people take the latter so it provides an opportunity to get away from the crowds and is a more adventurous walk. For adventurous read more hills, unmade paths and trees to clamber over.

For those seeking a longer walk, it is 16 kilometres from the park centre to a Hmong village. This needs to be visited through an organised trip – Cuc Phuong runs a number of tours including overnights in the village. Other walks, such as the fossil and ancient tree loop trail, also require a guide. Check on the Cuc Phuong website or at reception for further details.

A suspicious looking langour.

As well as the natural environment, Cuc Phuong is home to the Endangered Primate Rescue Centre. This houses around 150 primates from endangered species in large enclosures. The aim of the centre is to release the animals back into the wild, but it often proves difficult to rehabilitate them and they have only released a small number since the centre opened in 1995. It's open 09:00-11:00 and 13:15-16:00 with guided tours every 30 minutes. Entry is 30,000 VND and tickets should be bought in advance at reception. They are valid for entry to any session.

Over the road from the EPRC is the Turtle Conservation Centre (TCC), a rescue facility for turtles confiscated from the wildlife trade. The entry hall has some well presented displays detailing the problem and up to 19 species can be seen inside. The TCC is open 09:00-11:00 and 14:00-16:00 daily and is free to enter, with no need for a guide. You might consider making a donation — there's a box inside.

Enjoying the sunshine.

If you simply want a quick look around and the chance to walk through some forest or visit the primate centre, you could take a long day trip from Hanoi, but you will spend most of the day travelling, so an overnight stay is advisable. If you’re visiting Tam Coc, base yourself in Ninh Binh for an extra night or two and visit for the day from there.

Accommodation in the park is adequate but in our opinion is a bit overpriced for the quality — still, they have a captive audience. You have three options: stay at park HQ, Mac Lake or the Park Centre. Mac Lake or the centre would be our preference, as the surroundings are more pleasant, but some of the rooms at HQ face onto the Botanical Gardens and have a veranda for some early evening relaxation, so aren't a bad option. Private rooms and dorms are available. See their website for more information.

Accommodation at park HQ has a colonial feel to it.

As for getting there, it takes about three to four hours by road to reach the park from Hanoi and you can go by bus, car or motorbike.

Buses depart for Nho Quan from Hanoi’s Giap Bat bus station at 08:00, 09:00, 12:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 16:00 and cost 75,000 to 100,000 VND (75,000 VND is the listed price but don’t be surprised if you’re charged more). From Nho Quan you will need to take a taxi (around 160,000 VND) or motorbike taxi (around 80,000 VND) to the park reception; we’d recommend a motorbike as you’ll get a better view of the scenery on the way. There is also one bus a day that goes direct from Giap Bat to the park, which leaves Hanoi at 15:00 and returns at 09:00.

Buses run more regularly from Giap Bat to Ninh Binh, but you'll have to change to get to Nho Quan or you can take a taxi — it'll take about an hour. Getting the bus direct to Nho Quan or Cuc Phuong is recommended, but if you're staying in Ninh Binh it's a relatively easy trip.

Alternatively you can hire a private car: Cuc Phuong will arrange this for $155 return, which is a bit cheaper than the agents in Hanoi were asking. It's not a cheap option, but if there's a group of you and budget's not tight it's worth considering.

The other option is to go by motorbike. The route via Highway 1 (directly south) is not recommended as it's a particularly busy and unpleasant road, but it is the quickest way. For those happy to detour a bit for better scenery and quieter streets, head out of town towards Ba Vi and then take the Ho Chi Minh Highway. The scenery along the way is quite something — some might say it's better than in the park itself.

The wide open road.

April and May are ideal months for a visit as the park is alive with butterflies and the weather is likely to be hot but dry. Other than that, any time is good as long as you are prepared for the weather: remember it gets chilly December through February.

If you’re interested in botany or have a fondness for primates then it’s a must-visit. For anyone else it’s a pleasant diversion and escape from the city if you have time. If you want to explore the area further, Cuc Phuong is only about an hour from Ninh Binh and the attractions near there, such as Tam Coc and Hoa Lu. Van Long Nature Reserve, where langurs can be seen clambering over the karsts, is nearby.

Entry to the park costs 20,000 VND. The Endangered Primate Rescue Centre is 30,000 VND (make sure you buy your ticket at reception).

Cuc Phuong National Park
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh
T: (0303) 848 006
F: (0303) 848 052
www.cucphuongtourism.com
dulichcucphuong@hn.vnn.vn

Branch office
24 Tan Ap, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
T: (04) 3829 2604

Tags: Cuc Phuong

Bun Bo Nam Bo on Hang Dieu (number 67) was my first real eating-with-the-locals experience in Hanoi. It's not just that the main dish served here of bun bo nam bo is quintessentially street food, but the environment and atmosphere of the restaurant are typical of a local lunch-time venue: it's loud, it's crowded, there's rubbish all over the floor, the tables are scattered with scraps… and the seats are small. I loved it, and we went back a few times while we were staying nearby.

Give it a good stir.

Then the restaurant, and the dish, drifted out of my consciousness as I moved away from Old Quarter and discovered bun cha. Now it's back, with a vengeance, as I've discovered a place near the office which serves up a damn fine bowl of the noodley loveliness.

So what is it? As the name would suggest, its base is bun noodles (the thin spaghetti-like rice noodles). They're put in a bowl on top of a bed of fresh lettuce and topped with a mixed stir-fry of beef, bean sprouts and onions. Then a broth is poured over and chopped roasted peanuts and dried shallots are sprinkled over the top. Some fresh local mint leaves make it in there as well.

When it's served, give it a good stir and, if you like, add some fresh chillies or chilli sauce and a squirt of lime juice. Lap it up with chopsticks and keep a spoon on hand to scoop up the broth.

Pull up a seat.

It's a good summer and winter dish: not so hot as to overheat you on a summer's day yet comforting enough for those cold Hanoian winters. It's also, while not exactly healthy, not as bad as some of the alternative street food dishes — well, that's what I tell myself anyway.

Bun Bo Nam Bo on Hang Dieu also serves nem chua: raw (well, I'm guessing it must be cured in some way) minced pork wrapped in a banana leaf. It's not commonly served with bun bo but give it a go.

The Hang Dieu location.

Other places worth trying are the stall outside Mao's Red Lounge, at 7 Ta Hien, and my work local, next to Syrena Towers at 49 Xuan Dieu. Bun bo nam bo is most popular at lunchtimes but can also be found in the evening. Expect to pay 35,000 to 40,000 VND for a bowl.

Bun Bo Nam Bo
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

Bun Bo Nam Bo
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem

Pho Em Chi
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

Tags: bun bo nam bo

Ignoring the gaggles (for want of a better collective noun) of cyclos carrying tour groups, which clog up streets all over Hoan Kiem district, I'm a fan of cyclo rides and think it's worth taking a cyclo for an hour or so at the start of a visit to Hanoi. Some will say walking is better, but I think the perspective you get from a cyclo ride is worth seeing — plus it's far easier to look around and take photos if you're not watching where you're walking the whole time. Of course, if you want to explore and investigate the back alleys and stop off here and there, that's not possible on a cyclo, but an introductory ride will help you get your bearings.

A gaggle of cyclos.

You can't walk far in Hoan Kiem, particularly around the old streets and the lake, without seeing a cyclo. You can't even walk far without being accosted by a cyclo driver, offering to take you on a ride around the area. In other words, the answer to the question, "Where can I get a cyclo in Hanoi?" is easy: "Anywhere there are tourists."

That said, if you do manage to pick a time when there are none about, head to the north of the lake; quite a few usually cluster near the tourist office opposite KFC or around by Ngoc Son pagoda. If it's a sunny day, many can be found in the shade along the southern end of Hang Dau, behind the soldiers' monument. Further south, the area around the Opera House — next to the park opposite the Hilton Opera Hotel or towards the History Museum — is a popular waiting spot.

Waiting opposite Ngoc Son Pagoda.

The standard offer is a one-hour trip around the Old Quarter streets: expect to visit Hang Bac, Ma May, Hang Ma and the other usual suspects. To get a bit more variety ask to include a ride around Hoan Kiem Lake and over to the Opera House and past the Sofitel Metropole — that should be feasible in an hour.

As well as the sightseeing tours you can also take a cyclo instead of a taxi or motorbike. I'd only really recommend this if you're going somewhere reasonably close to the centre, and would combine it with the Old Quarter tour. For example, the ride out to Quan Thanh temple or Tran Quoc pagoda, near West Lake, is pleasant enough, and if you don't want to stop and go in you could just stick with the cyclo for a ride around Truc Bach lake. Alternatively, you could take a cyclo over to the Mausoleum, as you should get to pass Lenin Park and the flag tower.

It's not an easy job.

Now to prices. A reasonable price is 100,000 VND for one person for one hour. If two of you want to share then expect to pay a bit more. You might be able to haggle down a bit lower — 100,000 VND was the first asking price of one driver I talked to yesterday, which suggests he would have dropped it had I asked, the next started at 150,000 VND — but remember, these guys are cycling your weight around for an hour in the heat and probably only get one or two passengers a day, so don't be too hard on them.

If you want to be dropped off somewhere outside Old Quarter you may have to pay a bit more, but try to negotiate that into the hour-long trip — if you're ending at a tourist spot this shouldn't be too difficult as they'll have a chance of picking up a passenger for the return. Also, make sure that if you ask the cyclo driver to wait for you at a sight, you should agree a total price first. I got stung on that one when I first got here so do be clear!

Tags: cyclos

I've written before about how the live music scene in Hanoi has improved since my arrival here in 2010: new venues, active promoters and high profile events have helped with this growth, not to mention more and more local and expat musicians wanting to share their talents with the masses.

Events like Go Go Japan are a sign of the growing music scene.

One such artist is Zippy. Zippy, originally from Canada, arrived in Hanoi in June 2011 and quickly made her name on the music scene due to her idiosyncratic lyrics, her abilities on a ukelele and her stand-out personality and style. I caught up with her to hear more about this self-professed "slightly off-balance" entertainer.

As I pondered over what my first question should be, my boyfriend, tongue-in-cheek, suggested "How tall is she?" She's about 167cm, in case you were interested. She's also dating Brad Pitt, Ryan Gosling and Ryan Reynolds, although, "They don't know it yet". This perhaps gives you a sense of her quirky personality.

An impromptu performance by Truc Bach lake.

Zippy came to Hanoi with a job — she teaches drama at one of the international schools — but also "wanted to be able to say: 'This one time in Nam…'".  I asked her how long it took her to break into the music scene here: "I started straight away. I don't wait to do anything. About two weeks after I arrived there was a New Hanoian event at 21 N club, and I asked about playing there and they said 'come play next weekend'." After that she got to know the guys at Hanoi Rock City and plays there regularly, as well as playing gigs at Puku and other venues around town.

"The music scene here is really cool," she says. "It's not competitive: no-one fights for the venues as there are enough venues and enough opportunity for everyone. And there are lots of new people creating lots of new things."

Zippy has high regard for the other acts in Hanoi, and in particular recommends checking out Brendan McGibbon  ("an excellent musician"), Go Lim ("they're some of the nicest people") and Machete.Sex.Mix. Keep an eye out for gigs on The New Hanoian and HRC websites.

Even her nails have personality.

One question Zippy pondered over was how to describe her music. "How would you describe it?" she asked me. Ummmm… She continued: "It's no particular style really. Each song comes from a place in my heart and in my mind and then comes out of my ukelele." I asked where her inspiration comes from and she told me that she simply writes music for people, mostly. "I hear something someone says and then write a bit of a song about it and then play that to someone and ask what it makes them think of and then that becomes the theme of the song. They're about people, memories and confusion — I like to play with cliches too."

What kind of words would a song about Hanoi have in it? "Map, perplexed, wary, chaotic, happy, buzzing," she says, explaining that Hanoi is "kind of like a video game". "Every day you're driving and praying you'll survive. But also, like in Mario, something magical will appear, and then it will disappear again and something else will appear."

Read more about Zippy and listen to some of her tunes on her website. Or keep an eye out on The New Hanoian for gigs.

Tags: Hanoi Rock City, puku, Ziggy

Skateboarding is probably not the first thing you think of when you think of getting around in Hanoi: after all, where would there be room? But things are changing, and a few months ago a mini half-pipe was constructed at Hanoi Rock City. I spoke with 25-year old Englishman Sam Murdoch, one of the brains behind the initiative, to find out more.

Local skate fans having a go

Sam's been living in Hanoi for about 18 months, working as an English teacher and graphic designer. Until recently he worked at streetwear retailer Bosua, and while there got chatting with colleague Viet Hung. He says: "Both being skaters, we were talking about the lack of any ramps or skateparks in Hanoi. There are loads of good street skaters but they didn't have the chance to try ramp tricks. We then decided if we found the right venue we would build a mini half-pipe."

Sam dropping in.

The courtyard at Hanoi Rock City came to mind and "thankfully they were interested," Sam says. Sam worked with a friend and fellow skate fan Rob to design the ramp. They researched ramp blueprints online then drew up a design and took it to a local carpentry firm in Cau Giay district.

"They did a really good job putting it together in a few days and the framework was accurate and strong," he says. Everything went smoothly, although they've had some problems with the wood becoming damaged due to the damp weather here. "We are looking to get it re-surfaced with some higher quality wood or perhaps aluminium soon," he says. The ramp was funded by Viet Hung.

A Skate Jam was organised for the launch event, with Sam and friends making artwork, breakdancers and the support of local skate shop LB: "It was good times had by all as we drank, danced and skated until we could nae skate nee more!"

It's still popular, with skaters still getting down there most days; Sam's there about three times a week himself. "The aim was to build a ramp suitable for all ages, beginner to advanced: a place for all of Hanoi's skaters (including ourselves) to hang out and skate for free and to encourage ramp skating, as it is just as big a part of worldwide skateboarding as street skating is. We hope we've achieved that."

Doubling-up as a chill-out area at events

The ramp is open for all from 16:00-22:00 daily, although HRC will close it if they need the space for a big event. If you don't have your own board Sam says the skaters are friendly and would be more than happy to let you have a roll!

Hanoi Rock City
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi
T: (01633) 166 170

Photos 1 and 2 courtesy of Linh Nguyen.

Tags: skateboarding

In London, Brick Lane is famous for its Indian food; in Hanoi, it used to sell bricks. Ngo (lane) Gach (brick) is a small road that runs between Hang Giay and Hang Duong and is one of those streets very easy to miss, but a shame not to visit.

The alley starts with a rice shop.

While there's nothing unmissable along its 200 or so metres, a few things are worthy of note — and a good photo. Firstly, look out for the temple tucked back off the street about midway along; politely walk past the vendors and have a peek if you're suitably dressed.

Temple visits can build up an appetite.

Next door to the temple are a couple of shops selling wicker and cane goods. As well as the mandatory baskets, there are wind-chimes, walking sticks and hula hoops, just in case you want to keep fit while away from home.

Useful when your legs get tired.

Across the road, at the Hang Giay end of the lane, is Olympia Gym. I'm not suggesting you go in, but I liked the sign. Well, when I say liked, I mean it made me smile. Apparently it's also home to a salsa dance studio, a new one to me in Hanoi.

I might skip the cardio.

Another "not that you'll need it but it makes for a nice photo" are the paint shops — paint of the powdered variety. A few shops at the western end of the street are full of colourful bags of powder, and they even stock glittery options. And continuing the variety of wares this street hosts are a few shops selling swimwear and swimming aids — you may want to go for a dip at one of the pools in Hanoi now the weather's getting warmer.

I just want to get in and play.

Ngo Gach is a really interesting street for people-watching, so stop at one of the coffee shops or bun dau spots for a drink or lunch and a spot of just gazing.

Tags: hula hoops, Ngo Gach, walking sticks

I wrote about the Vietnam Women's Museum around a year ago, just after it re-opened following extensive refurbishments. I was impressed then and remain so, particularly having visited their three current temporary exhibitions: Worshiping Mother Goddess, Women and Flowers, and Shining Night.

Replica of the carts pulled by workers at Long Bien.

Shining Night is an exhibition set up by the Institute for Development & Community Health — LIGHT, with Hanoi International Women's Club the primary sponsor. The exhibition relays the lives of migrant women (and men) working in Long Bien market through displays and personal stories.

These women leave their home towns and villages and move to Hanoi, often to earn money to support families back home. As migrant workers they suffer from social stigmas, unfair treatment in the labour market and a lack of basic services. They perform hard manual labour — working as porters, rickshaw pullers, or carriers — with little financial reward, and to add to that they often suffer from physical and even sexual abuse. LIGHT aims to empower these women through direct initiatives, such as self-help groups, and by raising awareness of their plight in order to promote the need for policies to help protect them. This exhibition particularly answers the second of these, but the women's participation in setting up the displays has also helped promote a sense of worth. It remains open until the end of June.

Small rooms are shared by groups of women.

On a lighter note, the art exhibition on the fifth floor, Women and Flowers, is by renowned Vietnamese artist Pham Luc. Unsurprisingly the large paintings all feature women and/or flowers. Surprisingly, the styles and media vary notably: it would be easy to assume that a number of artists had contributed. That said, most of the pieces use strong and bold colours, filling the room with a striking array of colour. Take the lift if you're not feeling fit.

An exhibit entitled Women and Flowers, all about... women and flowers.

Finally, Worshiping Mother Goddess: Pure heart – beauty – joy can be found next to the Family Life section. The worship of Mother Goddess is a folk belief, still widely practiced in Vietnam today, as Mother Goddess is looked upon to offer emotional support.

Palace of water.

The exhibition is quite beautiful. It is split into four colourful sections, each representing one of the palaces that Mother Goddess rules — Palace of heaven (red), Palace of water (white), Palace of earth (yellow) and Palace of mountains and forests (green) — and contains information about the rituals of worship, associated paraphernalia and quotes from practitioners.

All special exhibitions are free to enter with a general admission ticket.

Vietnamese Women's Museum
36 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hanoi
T: (04) 3825 9937

Tags: museums, Vietnamese Women's Museum

A couple of years ago, vehicles reminiscent of golf buggies started appearing on the streets of Hanoi. As if the motorbikes, bicycles, cyclos, cars, buses and trucks weren't enough. But I mustn't complain, the carts are there in the name of green tourism: Hanoi's attempt to cut down on the pollution caused by the other forms of transport people were using to explore Old Quarter (um, that'll be walking and cyclos).

The future is here

You may detect a hint of cynicism, which is perhaps unfair of me. They have their positives: not only are they environmentally friendly, but they're also good value if there's a group of you (certainly cheaper than a cyclo) and allow you to have a look around without having to worry about whether you're going to get run over by a motorbike or trip over a pot of hot stock. Yes, walking around Old Quarter is great, but it can get tiresome and Hanoi can get repressively hot.

The usual suspects.

The route takes you around the best known streets in Old Quarter — such as Hang Buom, Hang Bac and Ma May — and around Hoan Kiem lake, and a recorded English commentary on board will fill you in on what you're seeing.

So to the practicalities. If you want to book onto a tour independently, go to Dong Xuan market. You will see the buggies parked up outside the main entrance on Dong Xuan and there's a ticket booth alongside. Operating hours are 08:00 to 22:00. Prices are per buggy: 150,000 VND for 30 minutes and 250,000 for an hour — even though the website states it's 20,000 VND per person. The buggies seat up to seven, although in my opinion that would be a bit of a squeeze, so that works out at just over 20,000 VND for 30 minutes for a full cart.

If you're on your own or in a couple and don't want to pay for a full cart you will have to wait and join another group — and given very few people are jumping, literally, on the bandwagon (independently at least — it seems to be popular among tour groups) this could entail a very, very long wait. My advice is to only go to Dong Xuan if you're prepared to pay for a full buggy. Otherwise try asking at your hotel — some will be able to arrange a pick up for you.

Dong Xuan Tourism
Dong Xuan market (Cau Dong Street)
T: (04) 3928 4755
dongxuantours@gmail.com
http://dongxuanmarket.com.vn

Tags: electric bus

Hàng Giầy is right in the centre of Old Quarter: running from Luong Ngoc Quyen to Hang Chieu. Giầy means shoes — if it were giay it would be paper, which is why I've added the tones — but nowadays there are very few shoes on sale along its stretch.

Street sponsored by Wrigley's.

There may not be shoes, but pretty much everything else is available. The top two-thirds of the street are given over to shops selling primarily toys, snacks, preserved fruits and alcohol: often all in one store. The road isn't narrow, but with the wares spilling out onto the street and motorbikes parked erratically — either delivering or shopping — it's not the easiest of streets to navigate. It's worth the effort though, as it's a hive of local activity and a good destination to stock up on crisps and biscuits for the train to Sapa (along with Hang Buom, which it crosses).

Fill your backpack.

The bottom third of the street is a bit more eclectic, yet more spacious and ordered. Tourist services start to appear, such as Ethnic Travel, and eating and drinking spots are sprinkled here. There are also some local "boutique" fashion stores… so they may not appeal to Western tastes (nor fit).

By day a shop, by night a restaurant.

This part of Hang Giay is a good place to go in the evening as well. The shops just north of the junction with Hang Buom, opposite Bach Ma Temple, close and the space turns itself over to a street restaurant. The menu's quite wide ranging — and in English — and although prices are a little inflated, it's still relatively cheap grub. There's also a bittet place at number 22 and pho is readily available (along with vodka Hanoi, but that's a night I don't want to remember).

A late night option.

Also look out for Nha Hang Thu Huyen at 36-38, opposite what used to be home to Hair of the Dog but is now a bar called Monkey and Snake. It always seems to be busy and is open late too.

Try the weasel.

Finally, Hang Giay is the place to go for coffee. A number of shop/cafes dot the bottom half, selling roasted coffee beans as well as freshly brewed cups of the strong beverage. Check out Cafe Pho Co (Old Quarter Cafe) at number 34, Hue Cafe at 26, Vi Lan Cafe next door and, further up Cafe Phuc Xuong. You'll smell them before you see them.

Tags: bo bittet, coffee, Monkey and Snake, pho, Shoes