Moonhut Bungalows is a great budget option on Ko Samui's Mae Nam beach. Arriving at Moonhut from a windy dirt road, the initial impressions may be mixed:the entrance is quaint, with a signposted archway leading to a tree-lined avenue with a beach sand floor, but a stagnant river to the left, at least when we visited, gives off a rather unpleasant smell.

Not a jet ski in sight!

Moonhut offers basic backpacker-type bungalows in both fan-cooled (550 baht) and air-con (1,000 baht) variety, positioned under large shady trees, raised off the ground, and set in the beach sand -- no lawn. Walking straight off the sand to your room adds to the beach holiday vibe, and each bungalow has a bowl of water placed on the balcony to rinse off sandy feet.

Named Moonhut after the colour of the moon?

On the day we dropped by, Moonhut was full barring one fan room, which is always a good sign. The air-con rooms are larger, but other than size and cooling method, offer more or less the same features including wet bathrooms with shower and a small safety box. There's WiFi but you need to pay for it.

Moonhuts is located on a great stretch of Mae Nam, with no jet skis in sight, and few vendors. This is where the kiteboarders hang out as the two points of the bay offer a good breeze rounding the bends. A few bamboo salas, tables and sunbeds are set out along the beachfront and each bungalow is also equipped with a couple of plastic chairs. Rooms are clean and serviced daily, and the beach sand walkways are raked and swept clean of leaves -- well, unless a resident cat is asleep on the ground, in which case the cat gets raked around.

Peaceful air-con bungalows protected by the spirit tree outside.

Looking at the beach, a development of upmarket villas is to the left of the resort, and the Old School Bar is to the right. With its wood-clad walls, trendy vintage photos and well-priced nosh, the Old School Bar looks like a good hangout for backpackers and kitesurfers alike.

Woudn't have minded school like this! The Old School Bar.

The resort’s own restaurant is located on the beachfront. Happy hours run 17:00–19:00, when you can also take advantage of the sunset views to Ko Pha Ngan. The menu offers breakfasts priced at 50 to 120 baht and sandwiches and burgers from 95 to 195 baht. The usual selection of Thai food is also offered, albeit at slightly higher prices than one would expect in comparison to the price of the bungalows --spring rolls are 120 baht, about double that of street cafes. A pool table and book exchange add entertainment value, and massages are available on the beach.

Not a bad spot to while away time.

Moonhut Bungalows are a clean, well-priced backpacker option for Mae Nam, as good as Silent Bungalows, a kilometre or so to the east. However, do try to get rooms away from the stagnant river near the entrance. Those preferring something a little more upmarket but still easy on the budget would do well to try Hutcha’s superior fan or air-con rooms.

Fan room in both senses of the word.

Moonhut Bungalows
67/2 Moo 1 Mae Nam Beach (Coming from Nathon on the Ring Road, turn left 100m past the petrol station in Mae Nam and follow the Moonhut signs along a windy dirt road for a few hundred metres)
T: (077) 425 247
www.moonhutsamui.com
info@moonhutsamui.com

Tags: backpackers, Moonhut Bungalows

As part of Thailand's largest contiguous wildlife preserve, the ancient jungles and emerald waters of Khao Sok National Park should be far more than an after-thought while on a Thai island holiday. Khao Sok is a must for nature-loving travellers to south Thailand, but given the sparse info available online (stay tuned for fresh Travelfish.org coverage coming soon), the park is a tricky one for the independent traveller. Yet, we recently explored Khao Sok totally tour-free, and we want to let you in on how it's done.

Let's go!

Part of the reason Khao Sok seems such a daunting place to tackle on your own is that the 646 square kilometre park is only directly accessible from two places. The first is the main visitor centre area -- or the "land section" -- with access to a substantial network of hiking trails at the park's far west near Khlong Sok village, which is where buses from Surat Thani to Takua Pa (or vice versa) drop those heading to Khao Sok. The second is the launching point for Chiew Lan Lake -- or the "water section" -- near Ratchaprapa Dam and the town of Baan Ta Khun at the park's far eastern side.

There are no roads cutting directly into Khao Sok, so these two jumping off points are the only places from which to start your explorations. Seeing as they're 50 kilometres away from one another along Route 401, the park's land and water entry points tend to feel like two totally different destinations. While a host of traveller friendly services and guesthouses are found on the Khlong Sok side, the Ratchaprapa Dam area has yet to see any tourist infrastructure arrive.

Considering this vast geography that at first glance leaves travellers scratching their heads, most arrive to Khlong Sok and immediately book a tour of Chiew Lan Lake. Some also hire trail guides or hop on board with elephant treks or kayak river cruises, and many come as part of pre-booked all-in multiple day package tours from places like Phuket and Khao Lak.

There's nothing like a 1.5 million year-old rainforest to make you feel small.

The hiking trails and waterfalls of the "land section" are perfectly accessible on your own, so we don't see any need to hire a guide unless planning some intensive overnight trekking (or wanting a local there to ward off any snakes you might encounter). Just beyond the park's front gates near Khlong Sok you'll find friendly English-speaking park rangers to point you in the right direction for free, and we found trails to be clearly marked. Clusters of signs indicate the ways to various sights every few kilometres.

Chiew Lan Lake isn't quite as simple, but it is very much doable. One option is to take a local Surat Thani bound bus, ask to be let off in Baan Ta Khun and then hitch the rest of the 13 kilometres to the pier (at your own risk of course). Or, if you're not afraid of motorbiking in Thailand, you can pick up a rented bike at a shack not far from Route 401 along the Khao Sok access road in Khlong Sok. Once you've got the wheels, head due east on 401 towards Surat Thani. Enjoy the stunning mountainous scenery en route, but be sure to fuel up before departing as we only saw one petrol station along the way.

Better than the view from the window of a minibus.

Baan Ta Khun will be the first place worthy of being called a town that you'll see, and as you come into the centre of town some big blue signs point left to "Ratchaprapa Dam". Follow that road for about 10 kilometres before taking a left at its end. Shortly after that you'll reach an "official" national park check point, immediately after which you'll want to take the first right. This narrow road will wind around a bit before emerging on to the back side of Ratchaprapa Dam.

Stay to the right and follow a couple more curves as the road winds downwards before coming out immediately in front of Chiew Lan pier. There's a good authentic Thai restaurant and a couple of shops here in case you need a bite or that Khao Sok souvenir T-shirt.

And if you go left instead of right towards the pier, you get THIS.

After parking your bike, walk down to the pier where you'll find a national park booth collecting a 200 baht entry fee if you haven't already paid it within the last 24 hours. In this area you'll find no shortage of private longtail boat drivers ready to whisk you off into the lake. A private boat for one to six people costs what seems to be a standard 1,500 baht for a three-hour excursion, so unless you're solo this is a cheaper -- and far better -- option than paying 800 baht to be sardined into a tour boat with upwards of 16 clammy strangers.

Don't be afraid to sit at the very front of Khao Sok's particularly elegant longtails as you cruise over stunning blue green waters and past dramatic limestone karst cliffs. The trails and watefalls of the park's western half are well worth a day or two, but a Chiew Lan cruise is the true must-do activity of Khao Sok. A number of caves around the lake are also worth a peak, but be sure to negotiate this before shoving off as they will increase the price.

You're not going to want to miss this.

The lake is one of Thailand's most tranquil and stunning destinations, so you might want to shack up at one of the national park-provided floating rafthouses scattered around Chiew Lan. Tour operators like to make travellers think a 2,500 baht all-inclusive ticket is the only way to stay in a rafthouse, but they can be booked independently -- although only in advance -- through the Thai Department of National Park's website.

Out of bed and into the kayak -- brilliant!

Tackling a place like Khao Sok independently isn't for everyone, but we know there are plenty of you out there who, like us, travel as much for the adventure as the destination. So next time you're in southern Thailand, don't miss the chance to take Khao Sok national park by the horns!

Tags: Chiew Lan Lake, hiking, Khao Sok national park, national parks, Ratchaprapa Dam

Lamai is Ko Samui’s second largest beach after Chaweng, and lies on the southeast coast, with Chaweng Noi to its north, and Hua Thanon to its south. Driving from Chaweng to Lamai offers an eagle’s view along the 4169 ring road of the coves below, as the route winds over steep hills and around giant boulders high above the bay.

A real wish-you-were-here kind of view.

Lamai hosts its walking street market on Sunday evenings, along the road between the fresh market and the bridge.  As with Samui’s other walking street markets, this one offers authentic budget-friendly street food, cocktails, clothing stalls and music. A hangout for locals, expats and tourists alike, it’s worth a visit. Coco Splash, Samui’s only water park, is located in Lamai and is guaranteed to keep the kids busy for a while, though be warned it's not overly exciting for adult thrill-seekers as the slides are designed for the younger market.

Best budget place to stay

A new take on the iPad.

ibed Samui offers stylish and air-con backpacker accommodation in central Lamai, with mixed or female-only dorm rooms, plus private studio rooms with two bunk beds. The dorm rooms are modern and equipped with such backpacker rarities as individual TVs with head phones built in to each bed and individual overhead lights and plug points. Communal bathrooms are clean. Towels and blankets are provided and you can do your own laundry using the hotel's washing machines. WiFi and a roof-top sundeck sweeten the deal further. A self-serve breakfast is included. Guests have access to the pool at Pavilion Resort across the road. Dorm rooms cost around 500 baht per person, while the studios go for around 1,000 baht for two.

Best midrange place to stay

One expects the Mad Hatter to hop past at this quirky little resort.

Charming Samui Jasmine Resort is a quirky offering on Lamai and your best midrange bet on the beach. Keep an eye out for the oversized chess set at the restaurant overlooking the beach, while the decent breakfast buffet and swimming pool are what help push this hotel into the noted bracket. Rooms are spacious, with comfy beds, indoor and outdoor seating areas, Jacuzzis and WiFi among the amenities. The deluxe garden view rooms are good value, starting at around 3,300 baht. Don’t pay extra for the sea view as rooms overlooks rooftops, not making it a particularly spectacular sea view.

Best high-end place to stay

Which sunbed is angled just right to top up that tan?

The Pavilion Samui is located along the central Lamai beach and if it fits within your budget, by all means go for it. Rooms and villas are designed for relaxation in style, boasting oversized beds, reading corners, luxurious body products, dressing gowns and slippers in spa-style baths, and stack away doors that open up to private Jacuzzis or pools. The resort offers a fitness centre and a restaurant and bar taking advantage of the seaside views. Indulge in high tea over a good book in the library, or pamper yourself at the five-star Spavilion. If you tire of your private pool, you can slum it at the communal seaside one. Rooms from 4,000 baht, villas from 7,000 baht during low season.

Best detox option

A good detox spot after too many intoxicating buckets.

The Spa Resort is ideal for the budget traveller wanting to detox after too many of Thailand’s infamous buckets. Quaint A-frame bungalows surround the pool and overlook the beach, and rooms are also available in the main building. Rooms are simple but clean and equipped with air-con and WiFi. A spa offers herbal wraps, herbal steam room, various massages and facials. Classes in yoga and reiki are on offer as well as meditation classes at the local temple. The onsite restaurant serves delicious vegetarian and raw food (with some meat dishes). Menu prices are extremely reasonable – a delicious spicy lentil soup will only set you back 70 baht. Rooms average 900 to 1,200 baht.

Best holiday buy
The Fishermen Pants Shop peddles their own brand of these classic Thai-style garments in a choice of cotton, linen, silk and hemp in a kaleidoscope of colours. Variations include yoga, tai chi, island, meditation and hill tribe cuts, as well as shirts, kaftans, embroidered handmade shoes and bags. Definitely not budget fill-the-gaps-in-the-suitcase kind of souvenirs, but worthy, quality pieces of clothing that will bring back memories of your Samui holiday every time you wear them.

Best beach

Paradise found!

The best stretch of Lamai beach itself is in the middle in front of The Pavilion. Personally, favourite Samui beaches include two small bays just before Lamai when coming from Chaweng: both Coral Bay and Thong Ta Kien Bay Bay are good swimming beaches, with clear calm water, offering some of Samui’s best snorkelling for those who can’t make it to the Marine Park. They are also blissfully Jetski free.

Tags: Coco Splash, Coral Bay, Crystal Bay, Fishermen Pants Shop, ibed, Lamai beach, Samui Jasmine Resort, Spa Resort, The Pavilion Samui

From the streetfront, a modern glass, metal and wood building announces the entrance to the Marina Residence, Petcherat Pier and Marina Club Lounge in bold orange and yellow signage. Quite out of step with the bungalow-style resorts along this stretch of Bang Rak, the Petcherat complex is modern, and rather 'un-Thai' in design. Even the pier itself is concrete with orange painted metal railings, in contrast to the rickety wooden structures further along the beach.

A bold entrance to a modern establishment.

Petcherat’s main business focus, and the drawcard for this accommodation, is the speedboat service on offer from the pier. Boats depart from here for tours to the Ang Thong Marine Park, Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan. On the eve of the monthly famous, or rather infamous full moon party, boats leave every 20 minutes from 17:00 until 08:00 the next morning and a return ticket will set party revellers back 1,000 baht.

Speedboats eagerly await full moon party revellers.

Facilities include the Marina Club Lounge, which serves up a mighty full monty-type breakfast, and offers a good selection of Western food options for those Thai-d out. The home-style burgers and fall-off-the-bone ribs will satisfy the carnivores with insatiable appetites, but vegetarians will be equally as impressed with the selection on offer, and in particular the Mediterranean tapas plate. Meals may not be street café prices, but they are reasonable by Western food standards, with main courses averaging around 180-250 baht.

Excuse me waiter, have you seen my chair?

The rooms at Marina Residence are located above reception and the public area, and are basically wall-to-wall beds, offering air-con and TV. The look is minimalistic, with slate-grey walls, crisp white bedding, and splashes of red in the way of scatter cushions and red mosaic tiles in the open-plan modern bathrooms. The rooms, although comfortable, are small, and best suited to short stays -- they'd be good in particular for travellers in transit either to Ko Pha Ngan, or for its close proximity to the airport, which is only a five-minute drive away.

Which side do you want, honey?

There is a spacious communal chill lounge, with daybed couches and tables. Rooms one to three are not the best option, as this lounge looks directly into the rooms, although large blinds can be drawn to offer privacy from the communal area. While the rooms don’t offer much of a view other than the street or the rooftops of neighbouring buildings, the restaurant and bar area overlooks the pier and has views to Ko Pha Ngan.

If the bed isn't big enough, snoring husbands can always crash here.

Rooms are priced at a reasonable 1,000 baht per night, and if convenience is what you are after, then they are ideal. Those preferring something more island style should probably head to the neighbouring Samui Pier Resort, which offers seafront rooms set in a lawned area around a pool, or the nearby Dae Tong de Samui, bungalow-style accommodation -- although both these alternatives will deprive your wallet of more baht.

Marina Residence
Petcherat Pier, 4171 Road, central Bang Rak, Ko Samui
T: (077) 425 262
www.samuispeedboat.com/marinaresidence
info@samuispeedboat.com

Where I come from, waterfalls are generally not marked with their own sign along the road unless they're something truly impressive. In Thailand, however, every little trickling stream seems to be advertised as this or that "waterfall", and more than once I've hiked several kilometres only to find something less impressive than a fountain you might find in front a three-star hotel. At Manora waterfall just north of Phang Nga town, however, you'll be rewarded by something justly worthwhile.

One of several sets of falls at Manora.

The multiple layers and refreshing natural pools of Manora are just a short motorbike ride away from Phang Nga town. Upon entering the trail visitors are greeted by a pristine swimming hole with cool, clear water that flows straight from nearby mountain tops. This is where Phang Nga comes to cool off, and if you've had it with Thailand's tropical heat, it's a welcome sight indeed.

Even better than the pool at the resort!

Just beyond the swimming hole visitors will find a wide and relatively deep stream bridged by a fallen tree. If it weren't for the hundreds of small fish that thrive here, this stream would also be a good spot for swimming. At least it makes for a nice photo.

Fish spa, anyone?

Dip your feet in the water of the stream: the fish will mistake your toes for something edible and dozens will start nipping at your toes all at once. It doesn't really hurt -- and some might find it oddly pleasurable -- but in any case it's sure to make you giggle.

Nom nom nom.

A little further up the path from the fish stream the first of Manora's waterfalls comes into view. With less of a roar than those further up, this is a tranquil little spot to enjoy the entrancing sound of water gushing over rocks.

This place just keeps getting better.

After passing another shallow swimming hole along the path, where you can swing like Tarzan on a vine over the water, Manora's larger and more dramatic falls are found. Okay, so they're not Niagara or Angel falls, but Manora is impressive, especially considering that six different sets of falls of different shapes and sizes thunder alongside a winding path of several hundred metres draped in lush jungle canopy.

Okay, I'm sold -- Manora rightly deserves a sign on the main road.

After taking our time at a place where it's possible to lounge on some rocks with a small waterfall gushing right over head, we headed back down the trail. Along the way we spotted a long and very poisonous brown tail green tree viper scaling the low branches over head.

Just don't mess around with them and you'll be fine.

A few metres on we spotted a baby green snake on the ground, and after that we didn't waste time heading back to the road. Yes, we suffer from something of a snake phobia, but it would be a shame for anyone to avoid the falls just because we spotted a serpent or two. Let's be honest -- snakes are very common in the forests of these parts. As with any tropical jungle, just be mindful where you put your hands and feet.

Manora waterfall is located a few kilometres north of Phang Nga on Phet Kasem Road with clearly marked signs leading right to it. A sign at the parking lot said there was a 100 baht admission fee for foreigners, but the women working the booth were watching TV and just waved us through. Don't forget your swimsuit!

Tags: Manora waterfall, snakes, waterfalls

Honey Cottages on Ko Samui's Choeng Mon beach lies on an expansive garden-filled property shaded by large trees. The beach at the eastern end where the cottages are located has shallow waters, and at low tide, a short walk takes you to a small island not much more than a rocky outcrop called Ko Fan Noi. Those preferring deeper water for swimming can stroll about 100 metres along the beach for a more satisfying splash.

Time for a coconut shake and a good book.

Honey Cottages has an unpretentious feel, and offers a great social scene on the beachfront, with a well-stocked bar, a pool table, chill platforms in the shade, and sun loungers closer to the water for sun worshippers. A small but well designed pool next to the bar isn't big enough for lengths, but perfect for cooling off or sitting in while sipping on cocktails. Expect tunes like Otis Redding’s ‘Dock of the Bay’ over the sound system while travellers and locals hang out under the trees. Even if you are staying elsewhere, Honey is a great place to spend a day, and they don’t mind you using the pool as long as you order some lunch.

Pool or sea, pool or sea? Which will it be?

Honey Seafood Restaurant sits about 100 metres from the bar, around the bend, with tables on the beach and under a thatched sala. Unsurprisingly seafood is their specialty, but they also offer a selection of Thai and European dishes. A condensed snack-type menu is offered at the bar, including burgers and sandwiches. If you are spending a few days at Honey, be sure to try Mr Coppi's delicious grilled corn -- buttery and grilled on the coals while you wait. You will see him lugging his 'kitchen' up and down the beach, with a steady following of soi dogs hoping for any leftovers of grilled chicken-on-a-stick. Should you tire of Thai curry, but still fancy a spicy meal, try Akbar Indian Restaurant on the main road, only a few hundred metres' walk away.

Sex on the beach? Mai Thai? Mojito?

The accommodation is in the form of 25 individually styled bungalows, some on the beachfront and some set in the garden or surrounding the pool, and ranging from standard rooms to deluxe as well as family suites. All bungalows are air-con and have WiFi, with facilities such as satellite TV, safety boxes, minibar and spacious bathrooms. Rooms are serviced daily and each is decked with a small patio with garden furniture. Rates are fairly reasonable for midrange, with standard air-con rooms starting at 1,800 baht a night.

Home from home.

Honey is perhaps not the best choice around for those seeking cheap drinks, as they lean toward the pricier side; but those longing to escape the mad crowds of Chaweng or Lamai while still wanting a great beach and a bit of a vibe without breaking the bank, Honey Cottages is a good option. Those preferring a more secluded beach and cheaper alternative in the area, may want to give Thongson Bay Bungalows in the neighbouring bay a try.

Samui Honey Cottages
24/34 Moo 5, Choeng Mon Beach --Towards the eastern end of Choeng Mon beach, take a left turn from the main road, shortly after the Imperial Boathouse Resort, and follow the signs to Honey Cottages.
T: (077) 245 032
F: (077) 427 094
http//: www.samuihoney.com
info@samuihoney.com

Tags: Samui Honey Cottages

Paradise Park Farm on Ko Samui offers a relatively cool mountain retreat, where kids can enjoy petting a variety of animals while adults savour the spectacular views. The farm is located more than 600 metres above Lipa Noi atop Samui's Khao Pom; the drive up can be a little hairy, so make use of their pickup service from the main road if you have not hired a 4x4. Walkways and trails wind through 20 acres of tropical mountain forest, at considerably cooler temperatures than the rest of Samui due to the altitude.

Cool pool with a cool view.

The park’s restaurant and infinity pool boast views over Samui's west coast and to the Five Islands; reasonably priced Thai and Western fare is available from the restaurant, and parrots that converse in both English and Thai will keep the kids busy – no need to bring the iPad along.

Staff briefing: hide the spray paint cans before the customers arrive!

Kids can explore the enclosures that are home to your usual petting farm inhabitants -- such as deer and rabbits -- as well as a few bizarre ones, such as colourful doves. We thought they were painted by hand but after a little research, it appears that they are actually fed food colouring in egg yolk. Other interesting residents at the park include tiny hedgehogs – cute little bundles of prickles that you ironically want to cuddle but can't and Coco the monkey, who likes to brush guinea pigs.

You got my takeaway order wrong again?

Spacious aviaries are home to a variety of birds who keep up an endless rowdy chorus. Enter the budgie enclosure with a handful of provided greens and hope for the best as these cheeky birds swarm all over you to munch on their favourite snack. It can be quite a scary experience for a small child, so be warned!

Are you sure they don't eat fingers Gran?

Murphy's law that something so cute can't be cuddled!

For those wanting a true wildlife experience, Paradise Park is not the place. This is a petting zoo, not a reserve where animals roam free in their natural habitat. The animals however seem in good health, seem to be fed correct diets and enjoy large enclosures and paddocks. Some, such as the monkeys, are tied up on long ropes -- not what one wants to see, but at least they are not subjected to performing demeaning tricks, and they seem quite content. Coco’s rope is long enough for him to bail over a fence and steel an unsuspecting guinea pig when he feels like company. He loves to cuddle and brush them; quite bizarre to watch. The guinea pig squeals when grabbed, but then calmly sits while being groomed.

What do you mean he's not my brother?

Paradise Park Farm
217/3 Moo 1, Talingngam, Ko Samui
From the Ring Road, take the turn off at Ban Saket and travel along a rather hairy road for several kms. Be careful that you don’t take a wrong turn up top and end up in the military base.)
T: (086) 063 3318, (081) 255 1222
Open daily 9:00-18:00
Admission: 300 baht for adults, 100 baht for children
www.paradiseparkfarm.net

flying rainbows

Tags: farms, Paradise Park Farm, zoos

Travelling vegetarians can sometimes find sourcing decent food a challenge; in Thailand, however, many Thai dishes can easily be made as a veggie option. For Thailand generally, the Vegetarian Thai Food Guide can come in handy. If you're a vegetarian travelling to Ko Samui, SITCA (Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts) offers cooking classes, and can convert most recipes into veggie options on request -- this can give you a good introduction to meat-free Thai food. When eating out on the island, although any restaurant can do vegetarian, a few are geared specifically towards vegetarian and vegan diets. Here's a selection I'd recommend.

Tired of the beach? A fun way to spend the day.

Amala Vegetarian Restaurant at Prana Resort, Bang Rak
Anyone who thinks vegetarian food is boring should give Amala a try. This fully vegetarian restaurant adds an interesting twist to veggie dishes, and meat will not be missed at the table. Located at the pricy Prana Resort in Bang Rak, non-hotel residents can still book for the restaurant, which is a modern raw concrete and wood structure, right on the seafront. T: (077) 246 362

Marina Club Lounge, Petcharat Pier, Bang Rak

Watching the boats, breakfast can easily turn into lunch, then to cocktails at sunset.

Located in a modern building, home to the busy Petcharat Pier in central Bang Rak, this spot offers great Israeli and Mediterranean options, areas of the world that are known for creating interesting veggie dishes. Try the aubergine dip, garlicky, lemony and delicious served with toasted flat bread. The coffee is great too.

Radiance Restaurant, Spa Samui Resort, Lamai
Radiance is known for its vegetarian, vegan and raw food, and the vast menu serves weight loss, detox and raw food options as well as meat dishes for carnivores who can’t do without. Menu prices are extremely reasonable; here a spicy lentil soup will set you back just 70 baht. Raw food cooking classes are on offer too. The restaurant and resort has a laidback, hippy feel, with tables inside or outside overlooking the beach. A smoothie bar creates every combination of veggie or fruit drink; go on, try the strawberry and beetroot shake. This is a great place to recover after a night out in Lamai. Lamai Ring Road; T: (077) 230 855

Free House Bungalows Restaurant, Bophut Beach

Not quite free as the name implies, but reasonable.

This resort restaurant is busy and popular with locals too. They offer Western and Thai fare, with several pages on the menu dedicated to vegetarian options. Particularly good are the vegetable coconut soup, which is creamy with strong flavours of lemongrass and coriander, and the deep-fried tofu with peanut sauce. The place has a chilled, laidback vibe, without being hippy. Portions are huge and prices although not cheap, are fair. The shakes are super-sized with unusual combinations; try the chocolate and banana.

When it comes to street and beach food, vegetarian options, although fewer, are readily available. Try grilled corn on the cob, delicious and buttery, or grilled sticky rice, without the fish sauce. Veggie spring rolls are easy to find as are vendors selling freshly chopped fruit kept cool on ice. A portion will set you back only 15 baht.

Who says fast food can't be healthy?

For those with a sweet tooth, Nutella and banana pancakes are a winner; meat-free doesn't mean sugar and fat-free, right? Throw the diet out the window, and walk it off along the beach.

Heading to Bangkok? Check out these vegetarian, or mostly vegetarian, restaurants in the Thai capital.

Tags: Amala Vegetarian Restaurant, Free House Bungalows Restaurant, Marina Club Lounge, Radiance Restaurant, Spa Samui Resort, vegetarian

Straddling Thailand's west coast near the town of Khuraburi, the relatively large but little known island of Ko Phra Thong -- or Golden Buddha Island -- is wide, flat and desolate. It's no wonder people gave up searching for a solid gold Buddha image that was supposedly buried here centuries ago. At first glance there doesn't seem to be a whole lot to draw travellers here, but many come back again and again, and it's easy to see why. It's something of a secret, secluded place; a genuine escape from the material world with a unique landscape and intoxicating atmosphere.

Did I forget to mention all the empty beaches you could ever want?

Ko Phra Thong's inland landscape is indeed flat and barren, but it's distinctive in that it's categorised as desert-like savannah. Many travellers remark that it looks and feels strikingly similar to the savannah plains of Africa, minus the lions, gazelles and giraffes. Given the fact that most of the rest of Phang Nga province (and southern Thailand for that matter) is lush, wet and mountainous, Phra Thong's expansive grasslands and dry, sandy dunes come as a somewhat baffling surprise.

Sure we're not in Namibia?

For me, it was a welcome surprise. I've had some memorable experiences trekking in the rugged, mountainous jungles of Ko Tarutao, Ko Adang, and Phra Thong's neighbour, Ko Ra, but I've always been partial to rolling plains and dry, desert like landscapes. I find there's something about the hot, raw, expansive feel of such places that make it easy to reflect on the world as a whole, and my place within it.

Not your typical Thai island paradise.

During a recent cycle around Phra Thong, I took a seat at midday on a deserted sand dune and did nothing but watch the sand lizards roam for a while. I forgot the "real" world in all its seriousness and clamour. My petty worries sunk below the surface of the horizon. Any sense of "self" quickly diminished. Only solitude -- land, sky, body and mind -- remained. When I hopped back on the bike some 20 minutes later, I felt cleansed and utterly alive.

Just me, a few lizards and a big sky.

Whether it's to look deeper into one's self or relish life with a friend or loved one, it's that sense of solitude that brings many back to Ko Phra Thong every year. The other travellers I met on Phra Thong were thoughtful, creative and often spiritually inclined or non-conformist in their attitudes and beliefs. If you're looking for expensive spa treatments and tidy waiters bringing you drinks by the pool, look elsewhere, but if you want to get away from exactly that type of materialistic tourism, Ko Phra Thong may very well be for you.

Discover your inner hornbill -- or at least throw this friendly one a banana.

Far from being an after thought, Ko Phra Thong also happens to boast some 17 kilometres of wide, almost totally undeveloped beaches spanning the entire length of its west coast. Speaking of solitude, how does walking on a beach for hours and not seeing so much as a single human-made structure (let alone another actual human) sound? So untouched are Phra Thong's beaches that they're one of the few places in Thailand where sea turtles still regularly nest, and the endangered lesser adjutant stork may still be found here in all its glory.

If you like long walks on secluded beaches, Ko Phra Thong is for you.

It's true that Phra Thong's waters do lack that typical tropical emerald-turquoise colour, but the island's beaches are pristine in their own right, and the water still makes for some good swimming. A lone dive operation on Ko Phra Thong -- Blue Guru -- is known for introducing divers to lesser-known dive sites in the area. Also, don't miss the charming fishing village of Ta Pae Yoe on the island's east coast facing the mainland for a glimpse of traditional Thai island life.

A scene from Ta Pae Yoe -- sounds Hawaiian doesn't it?

As for accommodation, Phra Thong's handful of resorts run generators only between 17:00 and 23:00 and/or run on solar power, so don't expect hot water showers and air-con here. Most of the huts on Phra Thong are cheap (500 to 750 baht in high season) and about as spartan as it gets.

A hut at Mr Chuoi's -- they do come with mosquito nets.

While the newer Seaview and Phra Thong Bay resorts both offer rustic cottages that are slightly more comfortable, Mr Chuoi Hut & Bar is still the most popular spot for budget travellers. Bungalows here are fully thatched -- walls and all -- and Mr Chuoi is something of a character who enjoys chatting it up with his guests. Aside from serving some delicious authentic Thai food, his restaurant has become something of a meeting ground (and party spot) on the island.

If you have cash to spend and are looking for a more comfortable but still very unique experience, check out Golden Buddha Beach Resort. Spread over a large swath of land, the resort feels like a secret island community -- and that's because it is one. Each beach house is different from the next and all are owned by individuals and families from around the globe who enjoy their vacation homes for short stays and rent them out through the resort while they're gone. They're not cheap -- expect to pay between 3,500 and 13,500 baht per night depending on the house you want -- but the resort is environmentally conscious and offers not only comfort but also a great location and plenty of character and style.

If you really like Ko Phra Thong, why not buy one of these of your own?

Adding to its somewhat mysterious allure, there is no standard means of transport to get to Ko Phra Thong. You'll first need to get to the town of Khuraburi, from where it's best to contact your resort of choice (or have a travel company in Khuraburi contact them for you), and ask them for suggestions on how to get you there. While it is possible to charter a boat privately from Saphan Pla pier about seven kilometres north of Khuraburi or Bang Det boat launch (aka "southern pier" or "mangrove pier") to the west, if you arrive unannounced you might be forced to walk several kilometres to any of the resorts, or try to bug one of the locals into taking you there by motorbike.

Golden Buddha beckons.

Also, be warned that while there are a couple of local boat options, which run between 300 and 400 baht for a one-way trip and typically leave from Bang Det in the early morning, the locals often tell tourists that there's only one way to go: pay 1,000 baht for a one-way private longtail. This is generally not the case, but it's best to tell them you want to take the local ferry or banana boat so they know that you are in the know.

Note too, that while Seaview and Mr Chuoi say they'll be open for low season, Golden Buddha, Phra Thong Bay, and Blue Guru Diving shut down from May 1 to November 1.

I’m a runner; I try to run whenever I can. I run anywhere I can, mostly in the gym because I live in the city of Saigon, but I particularly love running on the beach. Luckily for me, Vietnam has some awesome beaches for running. Since Saigon can be a bit of a grind, I’m always on the lookout for excuses to head to the beach and recently my prayers have been answered: Phu Quoc Island, home to one of the country’s best beaches, is holding a very realistic run.

A Phu Quoc beach on an off day.

On June 17, Phu Quoc’s first 21 kilometre half-marathon is slated to be held. "From beautiful beaches to world class resorts, Phu Quoc Island is a perfect place to race and run," said David Shin, director of Sporting Republic, which is one of the sponsors. "In addition to providing participants with an outstanding race experience, we are certain the runners who will participate will discover why Phu Quoc Island is such a great place to visit.” I would have to agree that Phu Quoc is a great island with fantastic beaches, with tasty food and plenty of things to do.

Long Beach Resort -- one of the island's more expensive spots.

Another great Phu Quoc feature as far as runners are concerned is that the island is mostly flat. In fact, 90 percent of the marathon is on flat ground, making things a little easier. Things don’t get too crowded here, either, which is good for not having to avoid people on the road, but bad in the fact that the lack of crowds means less paving of said road. About 80 percent of the marathon will take place over a red dirt road; after 21 kilometres expect to be caked with red mud. And don't be surprised if you run into a cow or two along the way. Racers are expected to check-in at the Long Beach Resort -- the other sponsor -- the day before the race and participants will receive a T-shirt, timing chip, race bib and other sponsor goodies.

Phu Quoc sunset.

Half-marathons take quite a bit of preparation and determination; they’re not for everyone. If a half-marathon doesn’t seem like as much fun (ed: yes, pass me a cocktail please), there will also be a 10-kilometre Challenge and a five- kilometre Fun Run held at the same time -- there’s a little something for everyone (ed: sorry where did you say the cocktails were?!). Registration is open now until June 1. The entry fee to the half marathon is $45 while the 10k and 5k will run at $35 and $25 respectively.

I can already picture it, running in the early morning on the red dirt road with a beautiful beachfront view. If you're as excited as me, get registered, start your training, and I’ll see you at the finish line.

For more information and to sign up go to www.pqmarathon.com.

Tags: half-marathon