NeroFico is a "jazzeria" -- a combined jazz and trattoria outlet -- in Kuala Lumpur's Damansara Heights that's an affordable but stylish spot to savour classic Italian food, or to end up listening to some jazz later in the evening.

The secret Italian location.

A 15-minute cab ride from the city, Damansara plays host to a fresh crop of restaurants that are cheaper than KL's high-end options, increasingly making it (and Bangsar) the new places to dine before a night out on the town.

NeroFico is a sister of NeroVivo and NeroTeca, which are located in KL's centre and have matching swankier surrounds -- and higher prices. NeroFico makes a good alternative for those who don’t want to wrestle through the traffic snarls of the Golden Triangle (that busy area of Bukit Bintang, KLCC and Jalan Imbi), with a still-stylish interior -- despite being located in an office building -- and classic executions of traditional Italian dishes.

Its interior is still unmistakably Nero, with dark wood tables and trimmings, and a spacious but intimate setting with bottles of wine, grappa and De Cecco pasta adorning the shelves. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows open out to a breezy fresco area -- where you can smoke -- and on the pork-free menu you'll find items not quite identical to those on the other Nero outlets, but with still enough of a selection to keep your taste buds occupied and the favourites you expect to see, such as pastas, pizzas, steaks and gourmet sandwiches; think subtle creations, with powerful results. Prices here are lower than at the other outlets, too.

Worth trying is the vongole saltate (20 ringgit), served with juicy cherry tomatoes and asparagus that bring out the flavours of the clams sauteed in white wine. The ravioli di granchio (30 ringgit) is worth a mention too -- it's an impressive dish with the ravioli stuffed with succulent crabmeat and served in a light tomato and clam sauce.

The extensive wine list focuses on Italy, but you’ll also find a selection from Germany, France, South Africa and the United States; expect to pay 20 to 30 ringgit for a glass of one of the house pours. This makes an excellent accompaniment to watching the jazz performed Friday and Saturday nights. NeroFico boasts some of KL's best jazz, and has a small stage featuring local and international artists from 22:00 onwards on those nights -- see their website for who's playing.

Stylish and ready for a jazzy show.

If you want to come for lunch, try a Monday when their all-you-can-eat-pasta is priced at 48++ ringgit. An unlimited amount of pasta comes with a glass of red wine plus a salad to start the marathon with.

You’ll find NeroFico located off Jalan Semantan, on the ground floor of Plaza Perintis. It's easy to bypass at night with NeroFico’s low, romantic lighting but it's tucked away in the last office building on Jalan Dungun, just before the road curves off into Lorong Dungun.

If you enjoy dining at affordable but classy venues, another restaurant worth checking out is F Concept Dining by Buffalo Kitchens, a five-minute drive from Jalan Dungun in Bangsar.

NeroFico
Ground Floor Wisma Perintis,
47 Jalan Dungun,
Damansara Heights, KL
T: (03) 2089 5312
www.nerofico.com
Open Mon-Sat 08:00-midnight; Sun 18:00-midnight

Tags: Damansara, dining, Italian, jazz, live music, NeroFico

If you're heading to Kuala Lumpur and then onwards to Thailand, the Royal Thai Embassy in KL is a fine place to get a visa. While not quite as painless as completing the process in Bali, we found the embassy in KL to be organised and professional. If you show up prepared, you'll have plenty of time left in the day to explore the city.

Welcome to KL's least fun tourist hot spot.

The embassy issues a range of visas, including business, marriage and education, but at present they only offer single entry tourist visas, not double entry. A single entry tourist visa will get you 60 days upon entering the country with the possibility of extending the visa for another 30 days. The cost is 110 ringgit, which you should have ready in exact change, and they don't accept Thai, US or any other currencies.

According to the "official rules" posted on the wall inside the embassy and on their website, tourist visa applicants from most countries need to produce one filled out application form (available at the embassy or as a download from their website), a passport with at least six months validity, one signed photocopy of the passport, three 4 X 6 centimetre recent head shot photos, and a copy of onward travel (air itineraries are the standard).

Thailand is waiting for you.

Many reports, however, indicate that the last bit only becomes necessary when an applicant has already used several consecutive tourist visas, in which case copies of hotel reservations and bank statements may also be requested. In some cases applications may be denied for "serial visa runners", but this seems to be more dependent on the mood of consular officials than any clearly stated rules. While it's unlikely a first-time tourist visa application would be denied if no proof of onward travel is shown, it is within the power of embassy officials to deny any application for any reason. In other words, if you don't rub an official the wrong way, you should be fine.

Applicants for other types of visas, and citizens of some countries are subject to further requirements -- see the embassy's website or contact your nearest Thai consulate for more details.

"We want visas! We want visas!"

Normal processing time for tourist visas is two business days, and the embassy accepts applications from 09:30 to 11:30, with pick up available on the next business day between 14:30 and 16:00 (it says on their website and sign in front of the embassy that pick-up is until 16:30, but they closed at 16:00 when we were there). Visa processing is open Monday through Friday, except on Thai and Malaysian holidays, a list of which are available on the embassy's website.

Although wait times for submitting applications can be upwards of two hours, the waiting area is air-con and it's a far more organised affair than, for example, the embassy at Vientiane. There are no on-site facilities for making photocopies or trimming your photos down to the right size, so be sure to double-check that you've come prepared. It's also a good idea to show up before the embassy opens -- you'll have to wait outside for a while but it will save you more time once you're in.

That's the one you want.

The embassy is located on Jalan Ampang, a 1.5 kilometre walk from the Ampang Park LRT (subway) station (KJ9), accessed by the Kelana Jaya Line. Exit to the right out of the station, following the sign for "Jalan Ampang, Jalan Tun Razak, and Empire Tower". Make a U-turn as soon as you get outside (doesn't matter if to the left or right), and then go straight past a McDonalds. Cross the street when you come upon the busy intersection and continue straight, staying on the left side of the road. You'll first pass the French and Spanish embassies and a couple of car dealers before reaching the Royal Thai embassy on the left.

Royal Thai Embassy
206 Jalan Ampan, Kuala Lumpur
T: (03) 2143 2127 ; (03) 2413 2107 ; (03) 2143 2125
www.mfa.go.th/web/1321.php?depid=220

Tags: thai embassy, thai tourist visa

The Buffalo brand of stainless steel kitchenware and appliances have now ventured into another aspect of the food business in Kuala Lumpur with its F Concept Dining. Located smack in the middle of Bangsar, it's right above Chawan on the corner of Jalan Telawi 3 and across Bangsar Village. Going a way toward answering the question of its slightly quizzical name, the staircase leading to the first floor restaurant is chalked with several “F” words, none dirty rest assured, but all related to what has inspired their modern space: food, family, fabulous, freedom.

It really does get busy.

The open kitchen, coffee bar and book displays make it homely and cheery with the overall feel minimalist but sophisticated. Using recycled wood and PVC in their interior decorations, and an electrical stove rather than gas, Buffalo has made a bid to show that being green can go hand in hand with good food. They say that their kitchenware has a higher rate than usual (30% to be precise) of heat transmission, reducing food's cooking time so saving energy (and preventing the loss of nutrients in the food).

The menu might seem limited but what Buffalo offers, it has got right. The two-way crab and seared tuna salad are a good way to start your meal, while the steaks and pastas as mains are impressive. Prices considering the quality are reasonable, with the F Tasting Plate for two costing 18 ringgit, the squid ink linguine 35 ringgit and a fusion chicken escalope 32 ringgit. And the coffee is worth a mention too: freshly roasted coffee beans from GaBee in Taiwan ensures that this is one of the best coffee spots in Kuala Lumpur.

The open kitchen.

F Concept is also open for brunch, with the menu boasting a good variety of egg dishes including eggs Atlantic and their version of a big breakfast as well as a range of sandwiches. The amicable staff will whip up a favoured item not on the menu, too.

One of the highlights here is the wine list -- and the wine prices. Offering some great wines at some of the most affordable prices in the city, Buffalo shows KL diners that they don’t need to splurge to enjoy quality wine or a good night out for that matter. A glass of house red, white or rose is 20 ringgit.

Sumptuous brunch.

This dining gem is quietly classy. With a library, range of magazines and WiFi, it makes for a comfortable spot for an independent diner to enjoy a good meal after seeing the city's sights, but it's also the sort of place suited to meetings and gatherings with friends. F Concept is also kid-friendly, with colouring sheets and pencils handed out to keep little hands busy. On Thursday nights, a band performs bossa nova and old hits from 20:30 onwards; great for those who love live music while dining, or a warning to those who don't!

F Concept Dining by Buffalo Kitchen
69-1, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru
T: (03) 2201 1710
Open Sunday-Thursday 09:30-23:00, Friday-Saturday 11:30-late

Tags: F Concept Dining by Buffalo Kitchen

Fatty Crab is a name on Kuala Lumpur's seafood circuit that any self-respecting seafood lover ought to know. It's impossible to miss with the crowds waiting outside to dine here; even with two floors of seating, you may need to wait more than an hour on weekends for a table. The best strategy is to either go early (before 20:00), late (after 21:30), or dine here on weekdays when the throngs of people thin out just a little.

Don't wear your favourite white T-shirt.

This is no-frills dining at its best. Expect plastic chairs and hole-spotted tablecloths, which translates here to meaning great attention paid on the Chinese-style food instead. Appearances don't matter so much here, because once you’ve tasted their signature dish of sweet and sour crab, you’ll be blinded to such trifles.

Even during the peak hours of dinner, the Fatty Crab staff are attentive and prompt; while you may have to wait a while for a table, your meal should arrive promptly once you've ordered. To quell hunger pangs, you can order from two stalls set up within the restaurant: try a plate of fried chicken wings (14 ringgit) or better yet, enjoy century eggs (2 ringgit each), a Chinese delicacy served with slices of pickled ginger.

Best enjoyed with a dozen of your closest pals.

The family-owned restaurant has been serving seafood dishes for more than 20 years but it's the spicy sweet and sour crab that draws both foreign and local patrons here. Expect to pay 60 ringgit and above for a plate of the delicious crabs. The secret gravy that it comes with should be completely mopped up with toasted bread (2.40 ringgit for a plate). As a side dish, order the fried rice for 10 ringgit, which may seem plain on its own, but makes for a great base – mix in some of the sweet and sour gravy and some steamed fish for a flavourful transformation. The menu may be limited, but it’s a no-frills, good food restaurant that doesn’t have to rely on variety.

Anticipate getting your hands dirty from using the seemingly archaic tools to get the crabs open. It’s a messy feast and just the experience is almost as good as what’s being served to you.

If you can get over the colour, century eggs here are some of the best in KL.

Compared to other seafood restaurants in KL, the prices here are surprisingly average and affordable, making this a good choice for family and group outings.

Fatty Crab
No. 2 Jalan SS 24/13, Taman Megah
Petaling Jaya
T: (03) 7804 5758
Open 17:00-23:15 (closed Mondays)

Tags: Fatty Crab, petaling jaya, seafood, taman mega

Amcorp Mall started hosting its flea market in 1998, making it supposedly the first mall to start hosting flea markets in Malaysia. With the growing number of malls in the city, this one is largely deserted on weekdays; but don’t let that throw you off as shoppers are still drawn to stalls that set up shop here on the weekends. Arguably, they remain truest to the spirit of a flea market in the Klang Valley.

The flea market draws crowds on weekends to Amcorp Mall.

Unlike many of the bazaars cropping up, this market doesn’t sell new or chic products, but rather an array of interesting knick-knacks: dozens of stalls showcase antiques, old records, collectibles, second-hand items and arts and crafts. Most stalls are set up on the lower ground floor but every level is packed with tables hugging the sides to create space for shoppers to browse around. An average of around 300 tables are set up every Saturday and Sunday, from 10:00 to 18:00. While most visitors are cost conscious or seeking vintage items, there’s likely something appealing for everyone.

Prices here are far more affordable than other trendy bazaars in Kuala Lumpur, with many sold at around the 10 ringgit mark, and vendors open to bargaining. A number of cheap restaurants are located in and around the mall for shoppers to take a break and rest tired feet. It’s a budget haven, and crowds have increasingly flocked here.

All the pretty things.

For music lovers, a number of tables sell old and rare LPs in great condition. A number of stalls sell stone, ethnic and antique jewellery, as well as secondhand clothes. Pick up beaded accessories for 10 ringgit, while gem or stone rings are priced from around 100 ringgit. A couple of vendors sell jade items, with prices vary according to quality and grade. Young kids aren’t left out either with toys, children’s books and miniature cars sold by several hawkers. While Amcorp Mall isn’t the trendiest place to shop in, it makes for an inexpensive outing for everyone.

Old currency and coins are sold by numerous vendors.

The mall is easily accessible by public transport; the best way to get here is by LRT heading towards Kelana Jaya. Take the Taman Jaya exit to bring you directly in front of the mall.

Tags: amcorp mall, antiques, jewellery, markets, vintage

Tens of thousands of people took to the streets of Kuala Lumpur on Saturday, April 28, demanding free and fair elections, in a day that was to show the best and worst of Malaysia.

Democratic protest in all its glory.

From the early morning, trains packed with protesters came into central KL; the major roads having been blocked by the police.

Standing room only.

Yellow-clad supporters of the Bersih (clean in Malay) pro-democracy movement gathered in several different locations around the city, including outside Central Market. Other smaller rallies were held across Malaysia, and in dozens of locations round the world.

One of several gathering points.

In among them were green-shirted demonstrators, campaigning against the Lynas rare earth plant in Pahang, which is considered too dangerous for Australia, but not for Malaysia.

Yellow and green combine at Bersih 3.0.

It became quite clear early on that this protest was huge -- far bigger than the two previous large Bersih rallies in 2007 and July last year. A group of international observers put the total attendance at close to 200,000 people.

One Malaysia.

Young and old, male and female, Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous, this was Malaysia at its mixed, tolerant, easygoing best.

Merdeka (Independence) Square blocked off.

The original aim of the rally was to hold a sit-in at Merdeka Square, but it was sealed off with barricades and razor wire. Instead, demonstrators surrounded the square, turning the streets of central KL into a massive sit-down protest.

If in doubt, sit down.

Facing off with the protesters were several thousand police, seemingly prepared for a war zone rather than a peaceful pro-democracy demonstration.

All prepared for a peaceful rally?

When police started pulling back at around 15:00, it seemed that a confrontation would be avoided.

Last moments of calm before the storm.

But within five minutes, all hell broke loose. A few hundred protesters ran through the barricades and were immediately greeted by water cannon (laced with toxic chemicals) and tear gas.

The crackdown begins.

In seconds, what had been a peaceful, joyful occasion was replaced by fear and dismay. Everywhere you looked, people were running, trying to find any sort of respite from the tear gas.

Fear takes over.

Hundreds of protesters suffered sickness and injuries, as police went on the attack.

Medic helping sick protester.

I witnessed three lone demonstrators kicked and punched by groups of cops in the space of 10 minutes.

Protester trying to protect himself from further blows.

Sickeningly, they were cheered on by a contingent of riot police (pictured below).

The cops who cheered on beatings by fellow officers.

When media such as Al Jazeera tried to film or take pictures of the police violence, they were themselves attacked, and their equipment smashed. BBC and Al Jazeera news reports were censored.

Riot police assault stopped by traffic ... only in KL.

Three hours after the violence erupted, riot police were still firing water cannons and tear gas, even though the protesters had long since fled the area around Merdeka Square.

The crushed hopes for a peaceful pro-democracy rally.

In a perverse twist, the authorities have blamed the Bersih 3.0 organisers for causing the violence. But anyone who witnessed the day's events and not in the pay of the government would be hard pushed to blame anything except a completely disproportionate police response. Watch this superb video to see how a day that began with so much hope ended up so sadly.

Tags: Bersih 3.0

A short hop from the Liza De Inn Hotel, you’ll find Kanna Curry House in Section 17, a residential part of Petaling Jaya. With a modest but clean interior and a simple outdoor section with plastic tables and chairs, it may look like any other south Indian joint in Kuala Lumpur. But appearances are not what's driven this restaurant's popularity; its banana leaf, on the other hand, has helped create the restaurant's deserving reputation among KL food fans.

Kanna Curry House, a banana leaf institution.

Usually served from the early afternoon onwards -- making it an excellent lunch time choice -- banana leaf isn’t meant to be extravagant fare; it's simple in presentation, but flavourful in execution.

The banana leaf at Kanna Curry House comes with rice, a trio of vegetables, papadums (rice crackers) and three curries (fish, chicken and dhal) for the princely sum of 4.80 ringgit -- for unlimited servings. A number of additional dishes can be ordered to accompany your meal, such as mutton curry (5.50 ringgit) and sambal prawns (10.00 ringgit).

What's most popular, however, are the tender morsels of deliciousness emerging from their frying station at the front of the restaurant, made to order. Chilli-marinated chicken (5.50 ringgit), pigeon and a variety of seafood are quickly turned into scrumptious accompaniments at your request.

I recommend the fried chicken and fish, and if you can stand a little bit of fire, top off your meal with the chicken curry for a perfect mix of hot, fried and filling. If the chilli gets too much, order a round of fresh coconut water (3.50 ringgit) to sooth your senses. The staff are attentive, prompt and friendly.

The marinated seafood, chicken and pigeon ready to be fried.

Numerous restaurants serve up similar food at slightly cheaper prices across Kuala Lumpur. Kanna Curry House has perfected the banana leaf experience and the throng of people that come to dine here from all over the city is testament to that. The steeper prices -- albeit still reasonable -- are worth paying to experience one of the best Indian restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. Portions are also extremely good, and the rice will keep coming as long as you can still fill your stomach. Kanna also serves a number of Indian breads, including roti canai, naan and dosa to complete your south Indian food journey.

The simple interior is always buzzing with customers.

Kanna serves a mixed crowd of businesspeople, families and foreigners -- you'll have to elbow the working crowd out of the way from 12:00 till 13:30 week days, when you'll find it hardest to get a table, though a recently opened first-floor dining section means this isn't as much of a problem as it used to be.

Kanna Curry House
29 Jalan 17/45, Petaling Jaya, Kuala Lumpur
T: (03) 7958 2829
F: (03) 7958 4814
Open daily: 07:00-22:00 

Tags: banana leaf, kanna curry house, south indian food

Whether it's unearthing a one-off antique or making a fashion find at half the price you'd expect to pay elsewhere, browsing markets can earn excellent dividends. In Kuala Lumpur, the mainstream shopping can get uninteresting fast, with many of the malls carrying the same brands and stores, over and over. For a different experience, head to one of the markets or bazaars that have cropped up across the city in recent years. Check local newspapers to nut out weekend happenings that can sprout up for a short period of time, but a few regulars have now turned into institutions: one of them takes place at The Curve in Mutiara Damansara.

Have you seen the light?

Located in the mall’s open-air pedestrian street, colourful marquees offer a wide assortment of potential gift and specialty items; it’s also a good place to pick up secondhand clothes and one-offs by aspiring designers. Open Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00-22:00 (though the stalls begin to close shop at around 21:15), it's been running successfully for two years. Stalls come and go as the months go by, but the Curve’s market tends to keep a steady flow of female fashion, accessories, men’s T-shirts, handbags and footwear on sale. Then there’s the occasional odd stall either selling back chair support systems or scorpions for sale as pets.

Rain or shine, get your clothes and handphone covers here.

You may be surprised at what you end up finding: the Curve has had stalls doing nail art, novelty T-shirts, picture frames, creative pop-up gift cards and three-ringgit cupcakes; there’s also usually a stall or two offering original artwork and handmade items by the artists themselves. This isn't the place to go for antiques though. While the average shoppers are young professionals, there's a variety of finds appropriate for both sexes and all ages.

Sunglasses seem to be a permanent feature at this weekend market.

Regardless of what you end up trawling for, the street market at the Curve makes for an interesting shopping stop. Especially pleasant are the cool evenings, when the stalls are colourfully lit and vendors offer cheaper last-minute prices.

And if you're hungry: restaurants and cafes flank either side of the market, offering a wide range of options. For those looking for typical Malaysian food, Teh Tarik Place offers roti canai and various types of nasi (rice dishes) but Peranakan, Indonesian and Japanese restaurants are all located here too.

To get to the street market at the Curve by public transport, hop on the U88 Rapid KL bus from Central Market. Otherwise, the closest LRT stop is Kelana Jaya where you'll have to transfer to either the U89 Rapid KL bus or take the IKANO free shuttle service. The Curve also provides a free shuttle service from Eastin Hotel and the Royale Bintang Hotel in central Kuala Lumpur. For specific times and schedule, click here.

Tags: markets, mutiara damansara, the curve

Those who make the trip to the Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) usually come to experience its famous tree-based canopy walk. But even for those who don’t want to endure the semi-strenuous hike to the canopy entrance and back, FRIM can still make for a fascinating weekend trip from Kuala Lumpur, with its campsite to the north a popular spot to host group activities and short trips.

The entrance to Perah Campsite.

Perah Campsite boasts camping facilities including a kitchen, restrooms, picnic benches and a designated area for fires and barbecues. The site provides seclusion and a natural jungle camp experience without having to compromise on basic necessities. From the entrance of the campsite, terraced slopes lead to the picnic tables and slightly further down are around 10 plots that can hold up to 300 campers at a time. Male restrooms are labelled “Tongkat Ali”, for a tree native to Malaysia where the infamous Asian Viagra is derived, while “Kacip Fatimah” (traditionally used for the same purposes for women) indicates the women's.

The walkway to the camping "huts".

Tents, sleeping bags and other necessary equipment can be rented directly from the Perah office, but camping is usually reserved for groups. Individuals can however rent basic huts on the campsite for 50 ringgit per night. For those who aren’t used to the jungle chorus that usually accompanies a night in Southeast Asian nature, these are the best option anyway. The main hut area is built a few metres away from the campgrounds, connected by a short, suspended walkway through the trees -- so you’ll get a similar experience to the canopy walk without any stamina required. Kids will love it, as will fully grown men, as I discovered during my trip. A single hut can easily accommodate two adults with accompanying luggage, and each one comes with a wall fan and power socket. Whether for camping or use in the huts, sleeping bags can be rented for 30 ringgit -- they're necessary as temperatures drop during the night.

Each hut is named after a Malaysian state.

For families with kids, camping can be arranged with the caretaker of the campsite who will arrange activities for two days. Wood shaving, scavenger hunts, bamboo rice making and night walks are part of an educational programme that they can provide, as well as food and drinks.

Educational activities can be arranged prior to visiting

If you’re visiting under your own steam, food isn’t an issue if you’re not planning on cooking at the campsite. A picnic area is located next to Sungai Kroh, where a cafeteria serves pre-cooked meals. At the center of FRIM on Jalan Foxworthy, just as the walk to the Canopy Walkway entrance begins, is another canteen that serves a variety of simple Malay dishes with rice. Cost of a meal and drinks is less than 7 ringgit.

The canteen on Jalan Foxworthy, serving simple Malay cuisine.

As well as mountain-biking and trekking, less arduous activities like visiting a Malay tea-house, Malay traditional houses and taking a dip in the numerous waterfalls that dot the reserve can all be enjoyed. Rumah Terengganu was relocated from Pulau Rusa (in northeast Malaysia) and reconstructed in FRIM without a single nail; the collection of traditional houses is to be expanded over time and currently includes just two, with the other from Melaka.

Traditional Malay houses.

A short walk into the jungle across the main road from the picnic area leads you to a hidden waterfall, a favourite among kids and adults for a refreshing dip. This is one of the easier waterfalls to reach but just as shady and fun as the others.

The last part of the waterfalls are safe and good fun for children.

As a side note, as of January 2012, FRIM has revised their fees and charges for rental and visitation of their facilities and activities. The canopy walkway is now 10 ringgit for foreigners and 5 ringgit for Malaysians while entrance to the reserve itself is 5 ringgit for foreigners and 1 ringgit for Malaysians. A full list of the new charges can be found here.

Tags: camping, Canopy Walkway, forest research institute malaysia, FRIM, nature, treks, walks

Read the first parts of Brock Kuhlman and Gaby Doman cycling from Bangkok to Penang over on our Bangkok blog: the first 222 kilometres, packing, cycling through Thailand's far south, finishing Thailand, and getting to Penang.

Heading south out of Penang, we needed to leave early enough to cross the bridge that links the island with the mainland just as the sun rises from the south. We wheeled our bikes out of the guesthouse in the early morning darkness, and after a breakfast of sweet coffee and curried roti we started south. Colonial Penang quickly gives way to industrial Penang, where Malaysia manufactures reams of computer chips and assembles computers. It sounds grim, but kilometre after kilometre of groomed silicon factories is like riding through a park.

Sunrise over Penang Bridge.

At the actual bridge, we ran into trouble. We were stopped by men in uniforms who claimed that the bridge was closed to bicycles. When pressed for details on the bridge being closed, the guard hesitated and arbitrarily decided that 08:30 was an acceptable time to cycle across a public bridge. Since the rule against bicycling across a public bridge was obviously made up (with no signs indicating otherwise) we just made a run for it (or a cycle for it, actually.) The officer honked his horn a lot, but no one was bothered enough to actually chase us, which says volumes about the Malaysian police force.

After cycling for a few hours, a Malaysian guy on a bike caught up with us. He had also ridden from Penang and we chatted for a minute as we rode along. He had ridden from Penang to Paris the year before (which made our journey seem quite the afternoon outing by comparison). Mr Wong invited us to eat at his friend's house, and so we detoured to a small town off Highway 1.

Gaby and I were introduced to Mr and Mrs Chadhuri, who stuffed us full of curry and fresh chapatti and explained the Malaysian race riots of the 1960s. Mrs Chadhuri also packed us a bottle of mango pickle which promptly made all of my clothes smell like the Punjab, and explained how to make more when this ran out (a project I fully intend to start on when I get home -- it was amazing pickle). There is a real community amongst cyclists and it was such a nice break in a long journey to be welcomed into a home (and fed like a recalcitrant child).

Mr and Mrs Chadhuri.

Chapatis be damned, we still had more hills to conquer, so we started out again and headed south. We spent the night in Kuala Kangsar, the home of one of the Sultans of Malaysia, and then continued south on back roads through the jungle. There aren't as many roads in Malaysia as there are in Thailand, so you are often cycling on fairly busy routes; this was a real treat, to be on almost empty roads weaving through mountain jungle and alongside the river -- just the hiss of tires against the asphalt and cicadas in the canopy until we made it to Telek Intan. Well, tires and cicadas and rain, which we hadn't previously encountered, but we would every single day until we got to Singapore.

It only rained for a little over an hour, but we were soaked by the time we found our hotel. Tip for cycling in the rain: just get wet. Ponchos and rain gear were useless. It's better to just accept the fact you are going to be wet, stop and change into some flip flops, and continue on through the deluge. Just remember to turn on your lights and wear light colours so drivers can see you. From Telek Intan we headed south to Klang, one of the western suburbs of Kuala Lumpur.

Cycling into Kuala Lumpur, in a word, sucks. Most roads turn into expressways and you can easily find yourself crossing five lanes of high-speed traffic to merge onto the road you need to take. We braved the roads however and made it into Klang, where we took a rest day, enjoying walking around stores, eating food and wearing normal clothes -- basically not cycling and loving it. We've been cycling so long it's easy to forget that not everyone does this all day, every day.

Tags: cycling, Klang, Kuala Kangsar, Telek Intan