Nam Phu — simply put, The Fountain.

The fountain is a legacy of the historic French presence in Laos. For many years it humbly rested in the centre of its quaint square, surrounded by European restaurants in an ambiance of old world charm. However, as the rustic colonial aesthetic is increasingly unfavoured by developers in Vientiane, Nam Phu square underwent a major transformation in 2012 and emerged as a much louder expression of modern Laos.

Lights of ever-changing colours illuminate the fountain, while a powerful sound system entertains spectators with a rotation of Thai pop favourites. In the evenings, the square features live performances by local guitarists covering Thai and Western classics for all to hear. A wooden walkway has been built around the fountain, adjoining it to food stalls that have set up tables so that guests can enjoy a frosty Beer Lao or a meal near to the fountain. Those simply wishing to take an evening stroll can meander past the stalls and enjoy the view close up.

Up close and personal with Vientiane’s Nam Phu.

Twin buildings on the edge of Samsenthai Road make up Nam Phu Bar and Restaurant, which offers an extensive dinner and cocktail menu at above-average prices. Their rooftop seating provides an excellent spot to perch and gaze at the fountain or do a bit of people watching onto the main drag below.

Old-time establishments like Le Provencal, Le Cave du Chateux and Scandinavian Bakery sill maintain outdoor seating, separate from more recently developed establishments, while maintaining a view of the fountain.

Pull up a chair on the patio, why doncha.

If you’ve just arrived in Vientiane, or you’re leaving by coach or minivan, Nam Phu is a popular spot to drop off or pick up passengers, so you may need to make your way here from your hotel. Note that there are several ATMs close by, so this might be an easy place to head if you’re looking for cash. As you face the main road, Samsenthai, make a right past Kop Chai Der Restaurant and you’ll see a blue ANZ ATM and a small branch of BFL that also changes money. A small kiosk opposite the fountain sells water, lighters and cigarettes, for those who need last minute provisions.

A typical boat on the journey from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang.

The first and in many cases the only river transport many visitors to Laos will experience is the large passenger boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. It’s set up for tourists with a bar selling beer and snacks, a toilet and seats that appear to have been torn out of old cars. These are some of the most comfortable boats in Laos — it generally goes down hill from here.

The sort of boat used commonly on short shuttle services to remote villages along the rivers.

Typically on shorter routes smaller boats are used, and these either have hard wooden seats running along the sides of the hull or planks of wood spanning the width of the boat on which to rest your butt. You’ll see these boats often on the Nam Ou and will almost certainly get stuck on one if you decide to head up to Phongsali by river. They still have room for a bit of cargo.

It’s possible to transport your motorbike on a river boat in Laos.

It’s even possible to put your motorbike on one of these boats, which is handy if you made your way to somewhere remote by road but can’t face heading back out the same way. A motorbike will generally cost the same amount as another passenger, but the price is negotiable and you will need to pay a fee commensurate with how desperately you need to transport that bike. A one-day charter will cost in excess of $120.

You’ll generally get this perspective when riding on one of the smaller boats.

The smaller boats are obviously less stable than the bigger ones, so you’ll constantly be reminded by the captain to sit precisely in the position required to ensure the boat doesn’t list. This means no leaning over the edge to get photos and very little shuffling around to get comfortable. Just sit there and enjoy the scenery.

These sorts of isolated communities in Laos are dependent on river transport for trade.

The scenery along many stretches of the rivers is simply breathtaking. Remote communities are dotted all along the river and their only connection to the outside world is the odd passing river boat, which stops to unload cargo and transport villagers heading somewhere to trade or visit family. These more remote villages seldom have access to modern building materials such as concrete and consequently grass huts are the standard.

Even the United Nations World Food Program uses the rivers to transport goods.

Given the remoteness of some of these communities, food scarcity is a real problem and sudden weather changes can wreak havoc on already desperate people. The United Nations World Food Program delivers food aid along these rivers ensuring the survival of communities.

The town of Nong Kiaow is a transit point for those living on remote parts of the Nam Ou.

Some river towns are connected by road and this has an enormous effect on the wealth of the inhabitants. The transit town of Nong Kiaow has buses departing to the county’s far east and Luang Prabang as well as boat services up and down river, so people from these communities can get to and from major centres without the need for overnight travel.

Some river crossings require the use of barges.

Other transit towns have yet to have bridges built, meaning that barges are used to ferry all four-wheel vehicles including semi-trailers to the other side. Passengers and motorbikes usually just hop on board one of the smaller vessels standing by.

It’s not just the tourists in Vang Vieng who enjoy tubing.

The rivers aren’t always just about transport in Laos. Locals use it for food, washing and leisure.

The river is also use for playing.

Kids in particular can be seen playing in the river throughout the day. Who needs a Playstation when you have this at your front door?

Cargo on the river includes buffaloes.

Still, the river serves a serious purpose and at times you might just need to take whatever boat that passes by — such as this one filled with buffaloes…

Speed boats in Laos are great way to get from A to B in a short amount of time.

… or these speed boats which top out at about 70km/h. Whatever your choice of river transport in Laos, you’re bound to have a fantastic experience —  far more interesting than anything that a road can provide.

Trinkets for sale!

The name is a bit of a misnomer, however, as many shops and stalls now stay open from early on until about 17:00. An indoor market, older mall and newer mall all fused together, Talaat Sao is the favoured shopping centre of locals and visitors alike.

Half of the indoor mall features  household appliances and knock-off electronics and watches. There are occasional snack-stands in the peripheral areas and if you step into one of the motorbike parking lots, a couple of vendors are usually selling delicious Lao-style ice cream sundaes with coconut ice-cream, sticky rice, nuts and jelly sweets. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish, the market has food stalls in the basement at the very centre of the new building, facing the appliance section. Noodle soup and other standard fare is cheap, of reasonable quality — and heavily seasoned with MSG.

The bulk of the indoor market is the prime shopping area. Silk, cotton and embroidery are beautifully displayed in a vast array of lovely textiles, clothes and bags.

If you’re looking to buy a sinh, the traditional Lao skirt, there are endless choices of fabrics to chose from and many of the shops feature tailors who will fit it to your liking in a number of styles. If you’re looking for presents, stocking up on silk scarves is probably the most practical gift possible for lightweight travellers. Wooden boxes, bowls and carvings are scattered in various shops, and if you are fond of elephant motifs, you’ve come to the right place. There are also a number of curiosity shops with snakes in Lao whiskey and trinkets. At the far end of the market, near the corner of Lane Xing Avenue, clusters of old ladies sell Lao herbal remedies. They don’t speak any English, but if you’re interested in brewing some medicinal fire water, bring a bottle of Lao cao (Lao whiskey) and a willingness to gesticulate, and they’ll set you up with all matter of dried plants and animal parts.

Cushion covers galore.

The older mall is on the corner, opposite the bus station, and features three storeys of shops selling Western and Lao clothing plus electronic goods. The electronics are all Chinese knock-offs, many of them quite convincing. If you simply need parts for your phone, laptop or camera to sustain your travels, this is the place to come, but if you’re looking for high quality hardware, get it in Bangkok. The Western clothing is generally expensive, polyester and full of ruffles. This is not the place to buy T-shirts. However, if you’re looking for some more traditional styles, Lao Cotton on the ground floor has quality stuff, as do a few of the shops on the third floor.

The newer mall is an attempt to take standards up a notch, and featuresgold traders, high-end cosmetics, accessories and a better quality of electronics. Due to Laos’ high import taxes, this isn’t the country in which to buy luxury goods so skip the newer mall, unless you’re looking for some air-conditioning.

Sinhs for sale!

Nothing has price tags and costs are entirely open to negotiation. If you’re the haggling sort, expect to pay two-thirds of the asking price, and start by asking half. It’s always cheaper to buy multiple things at one shop, as vendors will be more inclined to bargain. While kip is the national currency, prices are often quoted in dollars or baht, so be sure to clarify which currency they are using when they quote you a price. Feel free to change to whichever currency is most convenient for you. Lao vendors each have their own style, ranging from the pushy to the entirely apathetic. Don’t be surprised if the family ignores you as they chow down for lunch on the shop floor, or if after lunch a stall is staffed simply by sleeping child.

That Foun is an ancient stupa in the heart of Muang Khoun.

The first temple many people will visit when arriving in Muang Khoun is That Foun, which can be seen from the main road on top of a hill in the middle of town. A sign leads the way to the entrance and after paying the 10,000 kip entry fee, you’re free to roam around and get a feel for this ancient temple, built in the late 1500s. It’s an impressive 30-metre tall stupa made of brick with a hole right through the base of it, apparently burrowed by rampaging Chinese bandits. The stupa itself is not clad in gold like many you see throughout the country and is well worth a look due to its different character.

The hole in That Foun.

Further up the hill is another stupa called That Chom Phet. Reaching it requires either a walk along the dirt trail or a quick but bumpy ride up on your motorbike. It’s really old and dilapidated but still has some charm despite the lack of love it receives from those taking the entry fee at the front gate. It’s certainly worth a photo, but until the grass around it is mowed and the temple itself weeded, it’s not going to win any awards for beauty.

That Chom Phet needs a haircut.

A couple of kilometres further down the main road in Muang Khoun in the direction away from Phonsavan is Wat Piawat. In the temple grounds sits a large robed buddha at the end of a column of brick pillars. The Buddha was allegedly shot when the building covering it was destroyed by enemy fire during the Indochina wars. It’s worth a visit and also costs 10,000 kip to enter.

The buddha at Wat Piawat is perhaps the highlight of Muang Khoun.

There are a few other things to see around Muang Khoun such as a small basket weaving village, but the main attractions are the seated buddha at Wat Piawat and the two stupas, That Foun and That Chom Phet.

A visit to Muang Khoun can easily be combined with a day trip to the Plain of Jars and many tour agencies will offer this. The problem is that Muang Khoun is not a popular choice for other visitors to Phonsavanh and you will more than likely be the only one wanting to go there, meaning you will either have to charter a car and driver or ride a motorbike. The ride out to Muang Khoun is an interesting one and the three jars sites are more or less on the way there. Go on — a visit to Muang Khoun is a great way to broaden your experience in Xieng Khuang province.

Lots of space for strolling.

Today, all of the vegetation has been cleared, and replaced with cement re-enforcement. The patios and restaurants lining the embankment have been torn down to expand the dirt road into a two-way paved river road. A large park has been erected and massive concrete steps lead down to the Mekong, which remains low all year round, forming a sort of beach.

Go for a dip on a hot day.

It has been a favourite topic among expats to lament this development and reminisce about the wild and rustic aesthetic of yore. However, anyone who takes a wander down to the riverfront will see that the Lao maintain a far more enthusiastic attitude toward the redevelopment of the riverfront, which has, particularly in the evening, become a hub of activity.

King Settathirath watches over his admirers.

At the far eastern end of the park is a large statue of King Settathirath, watching over the Mekong in a proud salute. Settathirath with the king who established Vientiane as the capital city in the 16^th century and is revered today, particularly in group photographs by the many people who visit the statue every day. Photographers often lurk around the statue offering to take your photo and frame it at a highly inflated price. Additionally, stalls selling refreshments and portrait photos of prestigious comrades are set up daily at the foot of the statue.

Revered leaders for home decor.

The park features grassy lawns with shade-giving trees, which make for lovely picnic spots on cool days. A decent amount of exercise equipment has been installed to be used by the public, and is frequently occupied by playing children and tracksuit-clad old women alike. If you’re up for a little cardio as well, aerobics classes are held around 17:00 every day further along in the park, and cost 5,000 kip to attend.

Have a work-out in the park, for free!

A children’s play area is a central gathering point later in the day when the park becomes a popular place for families to take their evening walk. The climate and the national temperament render strolling a favourite form of exercise, and at dusk, friends, families and couples come to see and been seen by the waterfront. A prominade along the riverbank is popular among joggers and cyclists, and has provided an avenue for skateboarding and BMXing to become more widespread in Laos.

A nice spot for a picnic.

At the west end of the park is the Vientiane night market. Stalls cater to tourists and locals. Many sell the standard hilltribe fabric merchandise found all over Lao, although the selection is smaller and less impressive than the Luang Prabang night market. Other stalls sell tourist T-shirts, clothes, slingshots, snacks and plaster cartoon figurines to be painted, a favourite activity among people of all ages.

A few stalls are set up by local art students. Some sell the classic monk and Buddha images on hand-made paper found in most markets. Others sell original work, often wood-prints, some of which are very impressive and at around 50,000 kip, very cheap.

The nightmarket stalls are set up around dusk.

At the far end of the market is what looks like a food cart, but is actually a bar cart. This party on wheels is a cheap place to buy a drink, if you’d like something to sip on while watching the sunset. The riverfront is certainly a spot to see the sun go down and everyone comes together to do it.

The riverfront is a symbol of progress, of which some have been more skeptical than others. While the ecological effects have been questionable, forming such a central and expansive gathering place for the residents of Vientiane has had many social benefits; many Laotians are puzzled by the common desire of Westerners to leave their homes to be immersed in silence and greenery. The Lao have developed their city in accordance with their own standards of enjoyment, and for better or worse, joining in with the hubbub is more fun than complaining about it.

Phonsavan isn’t a town we would call “bustling”.

The Plain of Jars refers to an entire area where mysterious limestone jars are found, with three separate sites open to the public. Each site holds clusters of jars carved out of solid stone and seemingly dumped all around the surrounding landscape, making for some truly amazing scenery. Their size and shape vary vastly as do their positions, with some tipped over and some intertwined with surrounding shrubbery. Nobody is certain of their true purpose, but it is thought that they may have been used during funerals.

Jars on a plain. The Plain of Jars.

In years gone by, the sites were riddled with unexploded ordnance (UXO) and their use as tourist attractions was severely limited. But over the past decade, much effort has gone into cleaning up the UXO and now there are safe walking paths throughout the area — just don’t stray too far from the path.

Bombs were dropped all around the jars sites.

Site one is the most popular, due to its proximity to the centre of town, but one could argue it’s the least interesting of the three despite having the largest single jar and the largest number of jars. There’s a cave and some bomb craters to look at here besides the jars and a small snack shop to grab a drink and bite to eat.

It’s not just about seeing a bunch of stone jars. The scenery is great too.

Site two is much further out of town and requires a ride along 11 kilometres of rough dirt roads. Although the roads around here are terrible, it gives you one of the better glimpses into rural Lao life in the area. The primary location of the jars at this site is on top of a small hill shaded by large trees. Many of the jars are broken and tipped over here, presumably due to tree roots sneaking their way into small fissures. Lovely views of the surrounding area can be enjoyed from a small lookout nearby.

Part of the fun at jars site three is navigating the bovine inhabitants.

Site three is located not too far from site two and is arguably the most picturesque of the lot. Rolling hills, bomb craters, rice fields and plenty of cattle are what greet visitors to site three. By the time most people arrive here, they’re not really interested in jars anymore and are quite happy to take photos of the scenery.

These jars are shaded by trees at site three as cattle roam around keeping the grass short.

The small restaurant at the gate to site three serves up a mean noodle soup with great quality meat — you pay a bit more than the Lao average, but the quality makes up for it.

Accommodation options in Phonsavan are plentiful — tour agents offer day tours with guides but your guesthouse will likely offer similar ones. A fairly standard price for a basic tour of the three main jar sites and a few extra stops will usually cost about 150,000 kip per person. Or grab a bike, and roll your own adventure!

A trio of Trio.

Most all of the coffee produced in Laos is grown on the Bolaven Plateau in southern Laos (where, by the way, there are also some stunning waterfalls). Elevated to around 1,000 metres above sea level, the plateau stretches for more than 50 kilometres and forms a relatively cool and damp microclimate, well suited for the sprawling tea and coffee plantations that support some 5,000 families. Many of the farms grow the Arabica coffee plant, introduced by the French colonialists. Organic farming is increasingly popular on the plateau, the result of which is a growing variety of delicious organic teas and coffees sold in major food and tourist shops around Laos.

Eeny, meeny, miny, mo.

The most common brand you’ll find on shelves is Lao Mountain Coffee, which offers about 10 different blends and roasts, most of them organic. A bag runs at around 50,000 kip. If you want to indulge in some high-end beans, look for Le Trio (not to be confused with Trio instant coffee packets) sold at Pimphone Market on Setthathirath Road in Vientiane and other selected stores. Sample a whiff from the ‘sniff patch’ on their brown bags and enjoy a heavenly scent.

Milky and sweet.

Lao teas are a variety of green and black teas, Oolong being the most common. Their flavour does not compare to the delicacy of other Asian teas; while the teas of China and Japan are often subtle and aromatic, Lao teas tend to be earthy, with a strong herbal taste. The coffee is likewise lacking in the subtlety you might be used to with European blends, but is instead robust and bold.

The Lao mostly don’t drink their coffee black, and instead diffuse it with a cocktail of powdered milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk. They brew it with a massive cloth filter, slightly resembling a large sock, and ensure the brew is extra strong. The result is a thick, sweet, almost chocolatey, delicious concoction of rocket fuel to refresh and revive those weary from the heat– and travel.

The Lao word for coffee is cafe, and with milk it’s cafe nom. For hot add ‘hon’, but aside from during the three cool months of the year, it’s best served cold. An iced milk coffee is cafe nom yen. The Lao prefer their coffee exceptionally sweet and milky, so if you like it just a tad sweet say ‘wahn noy neung’ and to take a smaller amount of milk request: ‘sai nom noy neung’. Lao iced coffee is available on almost every corner, ranging from 7,000 to 12,000 kip for a big cup. Just look for the cans of condensed milk on display and you’ll find it. For more exciting blends, head to Noy’s Fruit Heaven and try their tasty ice blended coffees with coconut, banana or mango.

Western-style cafes often serve a standard selection lattes and cappucinos, brewed with Lao coffee — a delicious fusion of coffee cultures. JoMa and True Coffee are safe bets for such beverages.

Like so many other parts of Southeast Asia, Nestle seems to have invaded the market, and despite their treasure trove of cheap, fresh, organic coffee, a lot of Lao drink instant Nescafe. If you spot this imposter brand, kindly ask if they have fresh coffee by asking ‘Mee cafe soht, boh?’. If not, find someplace else to indulge in a caffeinated delight.

Aside from waterfalls, there are also excellent sunsets on the Bolaven Plateau.

A good place to start is at the relatively tame Uttayan Bajiang, about 30 kilometres from Pakse on Route 20. Route 20 is the road that leads to Tad Lo, so you’ll more than likely be passing it anyway if you’re doing the motorcycle loop. The waterfall is located in a self-described nature resort which in itself is interesting. Perched on the edge of the waterfall is a restaurant selling local food, a decent spot for a feed before moving on up the road.

Uttayan Bajiang is a good spot to warm up to the waterfalls on the Bolaven Plateau.

On the way to Tad Lo, you’ll see a small turn off to Tad Suong, the tallest of the three main waterfalls in the Tad Lo area. From the top of the waterfall there are magnificent views of the rolling landscape below. In the wet season this waterfall is an awesome sight. In the dry, not so much. But it still warrants a visit at any time of year due to the fantastic views offered from the top. It’s also possible to walk the 10 kilometres or so to here from the main village in Tad Lo.

The views from atop Tad Suong make it worth a stop.

In the village which is commonly referred to as Tad Lo, the main waterfall is called Tad Hang. It’s a small but wide waterfall, and a perfect spot for a swim. Though signs all around the area advise against swimming here, locals and tourists alike are seen throughout the day swimming and washing in the stream and as long as you stay clear of the drop off, you should be okay.

Tad Hang is a top little spot for a swim.

Aside from these popular waterfalls, there are also plenty that are only rarely visited by tourists. Some are awe-inspiring; some will have you asking why you bothered to travel 10 kilometres down that dirt road. One of the latter is the Keng Luang rapids, located about 10 kilometres north of Sekong. More a river blocked by a bunch of rocks, the Keng Luang rapids aren’t really much to look at. The best part is the ride along the dirt road through rural villages, with children calling out and wanting high fives.

Keng Luang rapids — more like a desert than rapids.

Continuing down the road to Attapeu you come across a few more waterfalls quite popular with locals. One in particular is Tad Faek, a wide set of falls with various ledges from where you can jump into the lake below. It’s a popular spot for local families on weekends and it’ll often be so crowded that you may just want to leave. At other times, there’s hardly a soul about and you’ll have plenty of opportunity for a swim.

Geronimo!

A road more rarely travelled along is the shortcut through the national park between Sekong and Paksong. It’s a shocker — dirt, rocks and talcum powder-like dust, ankle deep. Hidden in the dust are fist-sized rocks which are an unpleasant surprise as you crawl along at 10 kilometres an hour. But travelling this road is essential if you want to see some of the best waterfalls on the plateau. Travelling from Sekong or Attapeu towards Paksong along this road, the turnoff to the fabulous Tad Katamtok appears after about 16 kilometres of dirt road. A small viewing area is located across the valley from the raging waterfall, which is in full flight in all seasons.

The dropoff at Tad Katamtok is incredible.

While you’re on that road, you absolute must stop in at the eco-lodge at Tad Alang, 27 kilometres from the start of the dirt road turn off. It’s possible to stay in the rustic bunglaows at the eco-lodge for 30,000 kip per night, but for the casual visitor there are waterfalls dotted all around the property. The main one is Tad Alang and when arriving at its base you feel like you’re entering you’re own mini-paradise. The walls of the canyon surrounding the waterfall are lined with ferns and brightly coloured wildflowers and the vegetation is a lush green — a stunning contrast to the scraggly vegetation above.

Tad Alang is a mini-paradise.

Some of the most well-known waterfalls on the Bolaven Plateau are located about 40 kilometres from Pakse and are called Tad Fane and Tad  Gneuang. Tad Fane is the best of the two and features stunning twin falls which are usually viewed from across the valley. You can get to the other side of the valley with the help of a guide — some people even try and get there on their own, with varying success.

Tad Fane is one of the best waterfalls near Pakse.

The waterfalls of the Bolaven Plateau really are something to check out when you’re in the region. Whether you choose to zoom straight to Tad Lo and back to Pakse or hire a motorbike and travel the entire loop, you’re bound to have a great time.

A clean, green kim chi fighting machine.

The atmosphere is far from romantic, with high ceilings, white walls and bright neon lights. And the acoustics are bad when it’s crowded; if you see a large dinner party of Korean businessmen, be prepared for some loud hoots and cigarette smoke potentially infiltrating your dining experience, though these parties are often seated upstairs. Some of the staff don’t speak much English, but the menus are all in English and have good descriptions of the dishes.

Your meal is served Korean-style here, which means a cluster of small side dishes on the side that are free and constantly refilled. A few of them are usually various incarnations of kim chi, a fermented spicy cabbage slaw that is one of the staples of Korean cooking. Others may include blanched aubergines in sesame oil, sesame beansprout salad, dried salty fish and onion tofu. If you fancy an appetiser alongside these, the kim chi potstickers and tuna kimbap (Korean-style maki rolls) are some familiar options with a Korean twist.

Among the mains, Korean barbecue is a favourite here. A hot-plate is placed at the table, on top of which is a metal soup bowl with an elevated centre for grilling. Trays of raw vegetables, meat and fish are served to diners, who essentially cook their own soup, grill their own meat and season it with various sauces provided at the table. This is a meal to be shared by a group, and runs upward from 130,000 kip. (A similar experience can be had in Lao restaurants serving sin-dad, with more local flavours and at a local price.)

Stone pot bibimbap with side dishes.

Bibimbap is a popular Korean dish consisting of rice, a mix of separately prepared vegetables and meat, with a fried egg on top. This tasty meal can be had for 30,000, but at 40,000 kip the stone pot bibimbap offers a more delicious experience; the food is served in a bowl so hot that the rice sizzles as the food is brought to your table. A mild chilli sauce is served on the side.

Several other soup dishes are served in similar hotpots, including the kim chi pork soup. For fish lovers, the smoked mackerel is excellent. The menu includes a few vegetarian items and several dishes can be ordered bor sai sinh (without meat). The stonepot bibimbap without meat is a particularly satisfying vegetarian meal. Prices are slightly higher than most standard Lao restaurants, at around 20,000 to 60,000 kip per dish.

Shiny.

For drinks, Seoul serves soju, Korean rice wine, and mak guli, a cloudy rice wine similar to unfiltered Japanese sake. Prices run from 30,000 and 50,000 kip per bottle, respectively. Beer Lao is also available alongside soft drinks.

Seoul
Bourichane Road, near the Thai Consular Section (if the consulate is on your left, walk five minutes’ down Bourichane and it’s on your right, opposite the VV Tower office building)
T: (020) 5566 8605
Open daily 11:00-21:00ish

Catch the ferry to the other side of the river and go for a bike ride. Luang Prabang looks different from there.

Firstly, it depends on whether you’re coming to this part of the world just to visit Luang Prabang or if Luang Prabang is just another part of a much larger journey.

Secondly, it depends on the kinds of things you appreciate when travelling.

Thirdly, it depends on your style of travel.

The food in Luang Prabang is fantastic with a large range of restaurants to choose from.

If you’re visiting Asia just so you can soak up everything that Luang Prabang has to offer, to the exclusion of all other destinations, then you would obviously spend more time in Luang Prabang than the average traveller. This would generally mean a minimum of one week and topping out at moving there permanently, as many people have already done. Those coming to Luang Prabang specifically should think about spending time enjoying the cafe culture, the comings and goings on the Mekong, sitting down with local residents and learning about their lives and becoming a semi-regular around town. You’d really be able to slip into the Luang Prabang pace of life.

Lounging in a cafe with croissant in one hand, coffee in another — it’s what Luang Prabang is all about for some.

For those visiting Luang Prabang as one of many stops on an Asian jaunt, the length of time spent here is predicated on the length of the entire trip, but a good rule of thumb is to allow more time in this city than you would any other town in Laos. The simple reason being is that there are so many things to do in Luang Prabang — cycling to rural villages, participating in cooking classes, visiting waterfalls… Luang Prabang is a centre of all things Laos and you get to do a great deal of things in a limited amount of time, making it a good use of your time.

Modern versions of classic Lao flavours are all the rage in Luang Prabang.

Culture buffs are going to spend more time in Luang Prabang than those more interested in partying or doing typical backpacker things. Why? Because Luang Prabang leans towards catering for visitors with more money than the average backpacker and therefore offers more cultural activities. That said, it’s still possible to spin through the city’s temples on a bicycle for a day for little more than $5. Culture buffs will spend time visiting the innumerable temples, cultural shops such as Kopnoi, evening dances, helping children to learn English at Big Brother Mouse, cycling to the other side of the river to explore the rural outskirts of the district and visiting one of the many artisan villages making things from raw materials such as silk and metal. A typical culture buff could easily spend a week in Luang Prabang without getting bored.

One of the many local industries around Luang Prabang.

Backpackers on the other hand often complain of Luang Prabang being boring and bland and shoot through in a couple of days. This is a generalisation, of course, but we have met a good number of budget travellers in the past who claim Luang Prabang just isn’t rustic enough for them. And in many ways this is true, as rural Laos this is not. Many backpackers move on after a few days of visiting the local waterfalls and a few of the temples in town.

The swimming area at Kuang Si Waterfalls is a perfect spot to cool off.

The last contributing factor to determining how long you should stay in Luang Prabang depends on whether you’re the type of person that absolutely has to be doing something every single minute of every single day or not. If so, you’re going to spin through town in four or five days irrespective of anything else mentioned above. You can easily head to Kopnoi and take one of their free activity checklists and run through the list. The true beauty of Luang Prabang, however, is found in its pace of life. Simply running through a list goes against the grain of Luang Prabang and it may well be unfulfilling.

Kuang Si Falls are a popular spot with backpackers and older travellers alike.

Temple junkies will get their fix in Luang Prabang.

There really is something for everyone in Luang Prabang and the amount of time you spend there really does depend on these things. We recommend a minimum of two full days for travellers with not much time and two weeks for those wanting to soak up a bit of the local way of life.

Been to Luang Prabang and want to have your say? Let us know in the comments.