Now in its fourth year, the upcoming festival runs for a month from June 7 and during this time the whole town becomes even-more-than-usually alive with a vast array of events: formal concerts, staged dance, theatre, cinema, art exhibitions, open-air musical performances, Chinese puppet shows, stand-up comedy, traditional dance on Georgetown’s streets, poetry readings, open gardens, street art, storytelling and all manner of celebrations to mark Penang’s rich and varied culture.

There are too many events to be able to list them here comprehensively, but here’s our selection of some of the best bits:

June 7: The Dewan Sri Penang, Georgetown’s main concert hall near to the Esplanade on Lebuh Light, sees the launch of the festival at 20:30 with a concert of Italian masterpieces from internationally renowned classical chamber group, I Musici. Tickets are 60/80/100 ringgit.

June 8: The festival literally takes off at its official opening ceremony at the Esplanade, between 15:00 and 19:00, when hundreds of kites will take to the air and fill the sky with colour. Percussion groups will entertain the crowds and help get the party started.

June 7 to July 7: Whiteaways Arcade on Lebuh Downing plays host to contemporary paintings and sculptures by leading Malaysian and Malaysia-based artists.

June 7 to July 7: Building on the huge success of last year’s street art trail, the Secret Gardens of Earthly Delights will showcase a series of green spaces and installation art, in and around the heritage zone. A walking tour map will be available by the beginning of the festival.

June 13 to 16: Men in Tutus is exactly what you might expect from the title. It won’t be to everyone’s taste, but if male ballet dancers and drag comedy are your thing, it’s worth booking tickets soon as this is one of the festival’s most eagerly anticipated events. Penang Performing Arts Centre, 20:30 on 13, 14 and 15, and 19:00 on June 16, plus afternoon matinees on June 15 and 16. Tickets 105/135/165/195 ringgit.

June 21: Be transported to Mumbai with a night of Bollywood hits, starting at 20:30 at the Dewan Sri Penang and featuring a 15-piece orchestra and some of India’s top vocal and instrumental talent, including Abhas Joshi, the winner of 2012 TV singing contest Star Voice of India. Ticket details to be confirmed.

June 21 and 22: Poem on Autumn Leaves is a Hainanese Opera performed in Hainanese, Mandarin and English, based on the classical Chinese novel and staged at the Yap Kongsi on Lebuh Armenian.  Performances start at 20:00 and admission is free.

June 28: Tropfest comes to Penang, with this day-long film symposium featuring a series of conversations with top directors and producers from the Southeast Asia film community. 9:30 to 18:00 at Penang Performing Arts Centre, tickets cost 30 ringgit.

June 29 and 30: Directed by Flemish-Moroccan choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, and with a set designed by British artist Antony Gormley, Sutra is an intensely physical yet spiritual dance work featuring seventeen monks from the original Shaolin temple in China and set to a new score by Polish composer Szymon Brzóska. Dewan Sri Penang, 20:30, tickets 60/80/100 ringgit.

July 6 and 7: The official UNESCO Heritage anniversary celebrations will take place throughout many of Georgetown’s main streets, with traditional arts, craft and food for sale, as well as performances representing many of Penang’s races and cultures, including Teochew rod and shadow puppet shows, boria (Malay street theatre), menora dance from northern Malaysia, Hokkien poetry and classical Indian Bharatanatyam dance.

It is also worth checking out smaller venues for fringe performances and installations, including the A2 Gallery at 27 Bangkok Lane, and the Canteen at China House, which plays host to bands and singer-songwriters throughout the festival period. The George Town Festival website includes full listings and details of performances and events, as well as online ticketing. Tickets can also be bought at the venues, or visit the festival office at 90 Armenian Street.

Need somewhere to stay during the festival? See our favourite places to stay in Georgetown as well as our longer guesthouse listings.

George Town Festival
90 Armenian Street, Georgetown
T: (04) 261 6308
www.georgetownfestival.com

Dewan Sri Penang
Light Street, Georgetown

Penang Performing Arts Centre
Floor 3, Quay 1, Straits Quay
Jalan Seri Tanjung Pinang, Tanjung Tokong
T: (04) 899 1722

Photos courtesy of George Town Festival.

The view’s not bad either.

A small bar with clean lines and shelves of bottles leads into a main dining area that has limited seating with large windows overlooking the yacht-filled harbour and Mediterranean-style buildings on the opposite shore. An extensive list of cocktails won’t break the bank, priced at 16 to 18 ringgit — expect offerings such as a Telaga Bellini, lemongrass and ginger muddled with Absolut and lychee liquor before being topped with bubbles. They also have a roll-the-dice happy hour from 15:00 until 19:00 if you’re feeling lucky.

Yes, they have happy hour.

The tables are set with simple elegance and if you hold a reservation, your name handwritten on a banana leaf denotes it. For starters, try the New Zealand lamb and curry potato samosas or the or the Australian beef satay with jasmine rice and peanut sauce; these are a steal at 12 to 24 ringgit.

To-die-for Kiwi lamb.

For mains, worth noting is the Australian beef rendang served with with jasmine rice, kuah lodeh and peanut sauce, as well as the roasted five-spice duck breast with white radish cake and garlic bok choy. If you feel like something with a bit more of a Western flavour, try the New Zealand rack of lamb with egg and mushroom in a vinegar sauce with tea-flavoured jasmine rice. Mains start at 28 ringgit and head north to 178 ringgit for a lobster extravaganza.

Desserts round out the Privilege experience. We liked the ice cream trio of smoked banana, gula Melaka and Indian chai — the flavours are subtle and enticing. The steamed chocolate and cardamon cake is moist and soft due to steaming as opposed to baking.

This only represents a small sampling of the menu. The chef’s always creating and adding new dishes and deleting a few from time to time to ensure regulars don’t get bored.

Privilege Restaurant and Bar
B8 First Floor Perdana Quay
Telaga Harbour, Pantai Kok
T:  (04) 956 1188
F: (04) 956 1189
Open Mon-Sat,  12:00-23:00
www.privilegerestaurant.com

Penang buses with their distinctive red, white and blue insignia.

On an island where the car is king and people prefer to drive themselves, the public transport system is nowhere near as developed as it should be for a population of 1.5 million. However, the local government has taken steps to try and improve matters and, in 2007, introduced a fleet of modern, air-conditioned buses on the Rapid Penang network, which offers travellers a good alternative to taxis.

Unfortunately the sheer number of cars on the roads and the frequent jams mean that the buses are often less than rapid and leave people wondering whether the name is a cruel joke, or perhaps just hopeless optimism. Nevertheless, at the end of the day they will get you to your destination – eventually – and with their extensive number of routes and eminent affordability, you can get to most of Penang’s main tourist destinations for less than a US dollar.

Most of Penang’s bus routes start or end at the bus station at Weld Quay Jetty.

There are two main hubs for the buses in Georgetown. The principal one is the bus station at Weld Quay Jetty, where almost all of the routes originate and terminate, and many services also stop at the Komtar complex, on the other side of the town centre. The free CAT (Central Area Transit) bus does a loop of Georgetown and links many of the major streets, so you shouldn’t have to walk too far from your accommodation to get onto the bus network. A list of bus routes to common destinations is at the bottom of this post, and for further details, check the route map on the Rapid Penang website.

Bus numbers and route details are displayed electronically.

Prices for single tickets start at 1.40 ringgit for journeys under seven kilometres, up to a maximum of four ringgit for journeys over 28 kilometres. In practice, most destinations outside Georgetown cost two to three ringgit, unless you are going further afield to places like the airport or to the Penang National Park. You can also buy a Rapid Penang Tourist Passport, allowing a week’s unlimited travel on the buses, for 20 ringgit. This is available from the main Jetty bus station or, if you arrive on the island by air, from the Rapid Penang information counter at the airport.

The Rapid Penang buses are well maintained, clean and air-conditioned.

The vehicles are well air-conditioned and comfortable and some, including route 401E to the airport, have free WiFi. On the downside, the buses aren’t all that reliable and the frequency of services is sometimes not as generous as the published timetables would have you believe. You may find yourself waiting a long time for one to show up, which could be frustrating if you have limited time on the island. However, using the bus network is a cost-effective way of getting around, and if it’s not as rapid as you might like, at least it gives you more time to take in the sights of Penang along the way.

Useful bus routes:

10: Jetty to Botanic Gardens
101: Jetty to Teluk Bahang (for National Park, Butterfly Farm, Escape), via Batu Ferringhi (for beaches and Tropical Spice Garden)
102: Airport to Teluk Bahang (as above), via Georgetown and Batu Ferringhi (as above)
201: Jetty to Paya Terubong, via Air Itam (for Kek Lok Si Temple and Penang Hill)
203: Jetty to Air Itam (for Kek Lok Si Temple and Penang Hill)
204: Jetty to Penang Hill Railway Station (for Penang Hill funicular railway)
304: Jetty to Gurney Drive (for Gurney Plaza shopping centre)
401E: Jetty to Airport

This is not a complete list of services. Please consult Rapid Penang website for details of interim stops and further information.

So tall it had to be snapped a kilometre away.

Ask Kuchingites for the best hotel in town and they will unanimously say The Pullman. With its clean, white, airy aesthetic, there is something very luxurious and classy about this hotel; the cafe even sells macaroons. Disregard the view outside the huge floor to ceiling windows and you could be anywhere in continental Europe. With rooms starting at 237 ringgit per night and going up to 695 ringgit, for the quality on offer by global standards it really isn’t all that expensive. If you’re feeling really flush, get a room with access to the executive lounge — these rooms are on the top floors and have great views of Kuching. In addition to this, they also include a free breakfast and boardroom facilities.

Kuching waterside.

Food wise, eating in Kuching is great thanks to the mix of Chinese and indigenous influences. The reality is that you won’t find wincingly expensive restaurants in Kuching — the most you could possibly pay is 200 ringgit per head including drinks (in Kuala Lumpur, this could easily jump up to 500-600 ringgit and beyond).

Bla bla bla.

A good place to start splashing the cash is Bla Bla Bla, a Chinese fusion restaurant. The decor is more Bali via Kyoto than Chinese Dayak but then who doesn’t love looking at a massive koi pond while listening to woozy Sunday morning hangover music? My favourite on the menu is the midin chilli salad. Midin is essentially a jungle fern – something you should definitely try when in Borneo.

Next door to Bla Bla Bla is Junk, a Western fusion restaurant. Junk by name, junk by nature, this place is packed to the rafters with, if we were being unkind, junk. Everywhere you turn, you’ll find knick-knacks and old rusty things. It’s interesting but overwhelming at the same time. Despite the surroundings, the flavours of the food are clean and simple. There’s no gastronomical alchemy here, just great solid tastes and big portions. With plates twice the size of my head, you could absolutely share one dish between two. I really enjoyed the lamb cutlets and my dining partner claimed that the veggie pizza was the best thing he had eaten all week.

Find some junk at junk.

To spend all that money you saved on not being able to splurge properly, take a walk to Unika Borneo – an antiques store with an impressive panoply of shiny old things. Prices are slightly less than what you’d pay in the West but you wouldn’t get much change out of 500 ringgit for a single item in here.

After splurging for one day in Kuching (and I really tried), I spent around 500 ringgit. It’s not something that could be done everyday but of all the places to splurge, Kuching definitely won’t break the bank.

The Pullman
1A Jalan Mathies, Kuching
T: (082) 222 888
Check rates & availability at The Pullman on Agoda.com

Junk
80 Jalan Wayang
Jalan Wayang Area, Kuching

Bla Bla Bla
27 Jalan Tabuan, Kuching

Unika Borneo
5 Wayang Street, Kuching

The band stand sits in undulating green lawns, surrounded by the rainforest.

Set within a valley at the base of Penang Hill and bordered on three sides by dense tropical forest, the gardens offer a respite from the hectic streets of Georgetown. Wandering along its broad, tree-lined boulevards, and listening to the whine of cicadas and the chatter of birds and monkeys in the jungle beyond, it’s easy to see why this has always been such a popular place for locals to come and relax.

Wide boulevards are perfect for an evening stroll.

The present gardens were established in 1884 on this 29-hectare site as a recreational facility for the town and as a repository for a wide variety of different plants. For seasoned horticulturalists, the gardens are perhaps not as impressive or as well tended as others around the world. Certain parts look distinctly tired, shabby and neglected, and although there are lots of labels citing the Latin names of species, there is not much information. However, the state government has hired a new senior curator, formerly of the famous Kew Gardens in London, to come and help revive things, and changes are underway.

The headquarters date back to the late 19th century, when the British first established the gardens.

The rolling lawns and the backdrop of the rainforest make this a pleasant place for a stroll, and there are plenty of different zones to explore, including a Fern House, Orchidarium, Formal Garden, Palm Collection, Perdana Conservatory and Cactus House, all featuring both endemic and foreign species. Even if you have never been that interested in plants, you may still be impressed by the cannonball trees, whose trunks are festooned with huge round fruits, or by the bizarre alien-looking black lilies in the Japanese garden.

The gardens’ famed black lily.

One of the highlights is a recently renovated 1.5 kilometre rainforest walk, the Curtis Trail, named after the founder of the gardens. The entrance to this smart stone-paved track, with new rope handrail, is about 50 metres beyond the Orchidarium, on the right hand side. As you climb up into the jungle of towering trees, you really feel as though you are leaving the city far behind and get a real sense of Malaysia’s natural environment. Keep an eye out for brightly coloured birds and butterflies, and the occasional monkeys swinging high up in the canopy. Informative boards have been placed at various intervals along the trail, with interesting facts about the rainforest ecosystem and some of the main plants to be found here in Malaysia. Did you know, for example, that many of Malaysia’s climbing plants are in fact related to cucumbers?

A small shop in the gardens sells various gifts, as well as canned and bottled drinks and snacks. For more substantial food, visit the Waterfall Cafe next to the car park outside the main gates, for cheap, simple char kway teow, nasi kandar and chicken rice for under five ringgit. You can bring your own picnics into the gardens, too, although beware of the monkeys: they are shameless thieves, so make sure food is hidden away in bags while you are walking around, in case they catch you unawares.

The formal gardens, in traditional English style.

The number 10 bus to the Botanic Gardens leaves every hour from Weld Quay, via Chulia Street and Burmah Road, and costs two ringgit. It can get very hot during the middle of the day, so it’s best to visit when it’s overcast, or else in the morning or at dusk, which is when most locals come to exercise or simply sit and enjoy the atmosphere. The gates are open daily between 05:00 and 20:00 and best of all, entry is absolutely free.

The trail just to the left of the main gates is the start of the climb up Penang Hill, in case you are feeling energetic and can’t be bothered to queue for the funicular railway. It’s worth noting, however, that the start of the railway is on the other side of the mountain, so don’t count on being able to cop out of the hike at the last minute.

Wet market produce ready to go.

The pioneer in Langkawi culinary arts is Chef Shukri, who for years has held cookery classes at his family home in the jungle, complete with the traditional preparation of Malay food and interesting background histories. These days, Chef Shuk, of ‘Cook with Shuk’ fame, keeps a rather busy schedule but if your travel time allows a possible waiting period his culinary expertise is worth the wait from the praises we’ve heard.

All the ingredients are properly introduced.

But for a unique and more affordable option, we chose the recently introduced ayurvedic vegetarian cooking class easily available through Ishan Malaysian Spa and adjoining Ambong-Ambong Rainforest Retreat in Pantai Tengah. This open-to-the public class includes an introduction to Langkawi medicinal plants and nutrition as well as the finer nuances of extra-healthy vegetarian food options, for just 180 ringgit. This also includes a delicious lunch made possible by the class production line.

All lined up, ready to fire.

Cooking class director and spa owner Baskarin Kosthi and his wife Sathia are on hand to answer questions about medicinal herbs or explain how certain food combinations work. They start the class with a short intro-to-local-plants walk around the retreat and spa grounds, smelling and tasting various leaves. From smelling the aromatic crushed up leaves of the mango tree to tasting the bitter leaves of the flavour enhancing curry tree, each plant is highlighted for its unique medicinal or useful properties.

The chapati production line.

The class itself is two to three hours long depending on the astuteness and dexterity of the students — the class won’t however need to be cut short for slow learners, because most prep work is taken care of prior to class, so no dicing and slicing needed. As space is limited to four or five students tops, each student is guided through an assigned recipe one-on-one style. This particular class focused on preparing a delicious Indian feast. The various herbs and vegetables obtainable at Langkawi’s local wet markets and specialty shops are all carefully combined under the guidance of Sathia.

Ayurvedic magic spices.

For the uninformed the idea of an ayurvedic food may conjure images of tasteless sun-baked bread and wheat grass shakes, but ayurvedic cooking can embrace wellness philosophies in many tasty ways — and this class may sway the minds of any naysayer.

Ambong Ambong
Pantai Tengah
T: (04) 9558428
ambong-ambong.com

The entrance to Escape is in touch with its natural surroundings.

Located about half an hour out of Georgetown, in the jungles of the island’s northwest, Escape is not a theme park in the traditional saccharine-coated, plastic-fantastical sense. Forget about cuddly life-size cartoon characters, spinning teacups, replica fibreglass world monuments and rollercoasters. Escape offers a completely different experience, which eschews almost all the values of your typical amusement park.

Instead of trying to transport visitors to a land of fabricated fantasies, it draws you into the world that already exists around you. The theme at Escape is ‘natural’, and the emphasis is on connecting with others, as well as capturing a sense of adventure. Rising organically out of the surrounding jungle, the park aims to be as environmentally friendly as possible. The traditional thatched kampong-style buildings that greet you when you enter the park are the real deal, and the grass roofs, recycled water system and ‘human-powered’ attractions all help the park integrate into its natural surroundings.

Escape Adventureplay offers over fifteen healthy, active attractions.

Make no mistake: you work hard for your thrills at Escape, and will need to actively participate, rather than sit passively and be entertained. The main attraction here is Monkey Business, a series of three increasingly difficult aerial assault courses. You must crawl, clamber and claw your way around the various obstacles, before letting your inhibitions go on the flying foxes. The elevation creates a sense of challenge and danger, but the harnesses and safety cable make it all perfectly safe and there are plenty of trained staff members on hand to come and rescue you if you get really stuck. The feeling of achievement and camaraderie makes this far more rewarding than a cheap fairground thrill.

Monkey Business, one of the park’s main attractions, provides a great workout.

Another major attraction is the Tubby Racer, where you can hurl yourself down a hillside in a large rubber tyre. On our recent visit we couldn’t understand why there were no queues, but the climb to the top, dragging your tyre behind you, obviously puts more than a few people off. It requires some stamina, but the buzz of the downward descent is worth it. Other popular attractions are the bungee jump platform, Atan’s Leap, as well as the Gecko Tower, where you can pit yourself against the clock, and other contenders, to haul yourself to the top of the tower as fast as possible.

There are loads of activities to keep children entertained, too, from negotiating the Tots Trail, foraging for treasure at the Discovery Dig, or squeezing through a series of tunnels and mazes in Foxy Burrow. An extensive play area will occupy younger children, and there’s picnic areas and even treetop day cabanas, which can be rented for between 50 and 150 ringgit per day and provide a quiet respite from all that activity and adventuring.

Racing to the top of the Gecko Tower.

The feel inside the park is at once organic, but with nods to the traditional theme park in terms of the map, the names of the attractions and the general ambience. Hits from the eighties, nineties and noughties play over the park’s loudspeakers, and there is a food court serving canned drinks (4 ringgit), bottles of water (2.50 ringgit) and fresh fruit juices (5 to 6 ringgit), as well as various Chinese, Malay and Western snacks and meals including burgers, chicken rice, spring rolls, noodles and sandwiches, for between 8 and 16 ringgit.

The park works on a ‘no-cash’ basis for food purchases, so you will need to deposit money on a special card, for which you pay a deposit of 5 ringgit (you can top this up if you need to, and any unused credit, plus the deposit, is refunded at the end of your visit). No food or drinks can be taken into the park, but you can bring water bottles and refill these, and if you need to store bags and belongings, lockers can be rented near the reception area for 5 ringgit.

The exhilarating descent makes the climb to the top of the Tubby Racer worth it.

Entrance is 60 ringgit for adults and 45 ringgit for under-12s and over-60s. Three to four hours would be enough to get your money’s worth, although if you want to factor in some relaxation time and rent one of the cabanas, or if you just want to take your time and let the kids run around a bit, then you could easily spend the day here. Buses 101 and 102 to Teluk Bahang depart regularly from the bus station at Weld Quay, or a taxi should cost around 60 to 70 ringgit.

In 2014, Escape will be extended to include a waterpark and hotel, though whether these follow the same environmentally friendly theme remains to be seen. Regardless of this, the Adventureplay section offers a very active antidote if you have overdosed on too much Penang food and culture. The fact that it operates on such admirable principles, and is so different to anything else in Malaysia, is reason to visit in itself. Be prepared to expend a lot of energy and get very sweaty, but if you just need to let off some steam, this really is a rewarding way to do so.

Mini-falls for the less athletic.

Several waterfalls and clear, cool pools are tucked away within Langkawi’s rainforest, but Seven Wells is undoubtedly the largest and most popular. Located on Jalan Telaga Tujuh, it’s just past Oriental Village in Pantai Kok. A small cluster of shops and food stalls mark the can’t-miss-it entrance and the long climb of stairs that lead to the lower and upper falls.

The falls can slow to a trickle at the end of the dry season but most of the year the water is plentiful and flows through the seven wells (or pools) at the top. The lower falls are about half way up the 503 steps that ascend to the upper falls, and the spectacular 25-metre fall drops into a few lower pools before making its way down the mountain.

The wells are way up there!

At the top you’ll find the seven wells, which are sculpted from centuries or longer of cascading water. Legend has it that the area is populated by fairies who possess supernatural healing powers, so the waters here are said to have curative properties. Please note that the rocks can be extremely slippery and dangerous, so pay attention to the posted signs.

Inviting pools await you at the top.

North of Telaga Habour and on the side road to Datai Resort brings you to Temurak Falls. These falls are tucked away in a steep canyon and are only a short hike from the main road. The water falls 35 metres down a sheer rock face into a series of lower pools beneath the surrounding forest canopy. A few benches and pavilions are scattered downstream, offering a place to sit and enjoy the tranquil sounds of running water and jungle life. The pools are good for wading or swimming and while they can get crowded weekends and holidays, other times you’ll likely have them practically to yourself.

Not a creature was stirring, not even a fairy.

Coming north from Kuah is Durien Falls. Similar to Seven Wells, there’s a small ‘village’ at the entrance where one can find local crafts, clothes, food and drink. A cable suspension bridge leads to the far side of the river and to the stairs that climb to the uppermost falls. It’s not as spectacular as Seven Wells, but Durien Falls has its own charm.

Waterfall wear available here.

The upper pool is the best for wading and swimming, with a series of smaller falls that drop down to the suspension bridge. The climb only takes about 10 minutes and the jungle draws back from the upper pool to expose a large area of smooth rock for those sun lizards to dry off after a cool swim.

The bouncy suspension bridge is great for scaring your friends.

Kampung Buku (Book Village) is in the centre of the island next to the Agro Technology Park, about 20 minutes from Pantai Cenang. A countless number of pools of various depths and sizes slowly climb up the side of Gunung Raya; though more a series of small cascades of water than an actual waterfall, the river that flows through the now defunct Book Village is a favourite spot for locals on holidays and weekends.

This natural water park draws a crowd.

The walk along the river to the uppermost accessible pools takes about 20 minutes and is a mini-jungle adventure unto itself. A small village of pavilions at the base provides barbecues, tables and toilets for  planned or impromptu local weekend and holiday gatherings, but you’ll have the river to yourself during most of the week, plus or minus the possibility of a few fairies, of course.

Peak hour.

Tourist excursions in Sarawak and Sabah are often overpriced, crowded and head to overrated attractions; so it was with a heavy dose of cynicism that I set off this excursion. In short, however, the trip turned out to be one of my all-time favourite Borneo experiences. I hang out a lot in Borneo’s interior and I’ve trekked through lots of old forest; this kayaking trip went through some of the most breathtakingly beautiful rainforest I have ever seen.

The trip starts with a pick-up at your hotel or hostel in Kuching at around 09:00. It’s then a 45-minute scenic drive to the start point. Once you get 20 minutes outside of Kuching, the scenery changes from suburban housing areas to towering limestone outcrops — squint and you could be in Krabi.

Before jumping into your kayak, you’re given a safety briefing, a life jacket and a disclaimer form. Then it’s down to the river to start the 11 kilometre paddle down the river. The river itself is calm and wide, so the difficulty level is low and is very suitable for beginners. This isn’t a trip for thrill seekers and certainly not for those in search of white water.

Straggler!

From start to finish, the trip takes around six hours, with a 45-minute lunch stop at a village about four kilometres from the start the point. And what a six hours it is! As you paddle leisurely down the river, you’ll see huge old growth trees and jungle mists, the likes of which I have only ever seen in the interior.

What makes this a truly singular tourist experience is the feeling of isolation. A real effort has been made by the community who own this stretch of river to protect it, and it’s because of this that we saw no other people on the river other than those in our group. Even with so few people on the river at any one time though, it’s unlikely that you will see any animals, bar a few fish, as no matter how you try, the sound of six to 10 people kayaking down a river is enough to scare away any wildlife.

Look at all those trees!

The day trip I went on was 188 ringgit, which includes transfers to and from Kuching, lunch, water and all things necessary for a kayaking trip. It’s not cheap by Southeast Asian standards, but entirely worth it if you think about how much you would normally pay in transport costs to reach rainforest vistas like this one. A minimum of two people is required and you can either go in a single or a double kayak, depending on experience. We went with Semadang Kayak / Adventure Alternative Borneo, but a few outfits run the same trip on different days, and they are similar priced. If you only have one splurge in your budget, make this it. As my kayaking partner (the photographer) said,”This may be the best day excursion this side of the Malaysian Peninsula.”

Photos courtesy of Ryan Gray — thanks Ryan!

The facade of Chuan Bee Cafe — the one in the middle — is a little short on distinguishing features.

This only goes to prove the power of the backpacker grapevine, because unless you already knew that this unassuming cafe is one of the best places in Penang to try old-fashioned, home-style Hainanese food, it is unlikely that you would ever stop here. The fact that it is difficult to find, hidden behind rattan blinds and lacking any form of obvious signage, only adds to its mythical qualities. If in doubt, houses 62 and 66 are numbered on either side, and there is a discreet sign above the door.

The Hainanese were one of the last Chinese dialect groups to settle in Penang at the end of the 19th century, when poverty and ensuing violence of the anti-Manchu uprisings in China forced a mass exodus south. As latecomers, there were limited jobs available for the Hainanese when they arrived in Georgetown, but they soon made a name for themselves as expert cooks and cafe proprietors, a reputation that they still maintain to this day.

Iced hae kor chow herbal tea and simple decor at the Chuan Bee Cafe.

Chuan Bee is part of that legacy, although there are no pretences here and the decor is what it is: fairly uninspiring, basic but clean. You get what you’re given when it comes to the food, too, depending on what’s available in the kitchen. Since the menu is written only in Chinese and the waitresses have limited English, this may be a good thing and saves you wondering too hard about what to order, although the following dishes are house staples and should be available.

Deep-fried roti babi with spicy dipping sauce.

Start with a traditional roti babi (3.50 ringgit), which is, essentially, a delicious deep-fried sandwich of minced pork and onion with a hot, tangy dipping sauce. Follow this up with make-your-own parcels of joo hoo char (8 ringgit), which consist of stir-fried cuttlefish, mushroom, white radish, onion and carrot wrapped in a crisp lettuce leaf.

Joo hoo char: to the uninitiated, stir-fry wrapped in salad is an unusual combination.

Kam heong (8 ringgit) is another quintessential Penang offering of deep-fried chicken in a spicy, crispy batter, served with the same beefed-up Worcestershire-style sauce as the roti babi. Finally, hokkien hai mee (4 ringgit), a fragrant dish consisting of both bee hoon and yellow noodles with prawn and chicken, and served with a fiery red chilli sambal, provides a contrast of flavours and textures to the other dishes.

Kam heong: bringing deep-fried chicken to a whole new level.

Locals flock to Chuan Bee because it offers a real taste of home-style cooking and serves up many of the old Peranakan favourites. Meanwhile, travellers love the fact that the cafe is still a relatively well-guarded secret and finding it is a chance to experience something that many others won’t.

Hokkien hai mee with hot red chilli sambal.

However, at the risk of giving the game away, we believe good finds should be shared so recommend that you, too, go in search of Penang’s very own holy grail of restaurants.

Chuan Bee is near the top end of Lebuh China, near the junction with Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling – also known as the Street of Harmony – and the Goddess of Mercy Temple, so is a useful pitstop if you are visiting either of these popular Georgetown sights.