For many people, graffiti is one of the banes of modern urban life, nothing more than an act of vandalism. For others, it is an art form in its own right, deserving of encouragement not approbation. Like any large city, Kuala Lumpur has its fair share of ugly, disfiguring graffiti. But it also has a … read the full post

For three days every year, the Batu Caves temple complex is at the centre of Malaysia’s most extraordinary religious event — the Hindu festival of Thaipusam. On the first day, a procession wends its way from central Kuala Lumpur to the complex, which is about 15km to the north. Setting off just after midnight, it takes … read the full post

It may seem strange to visitors from cooler climes, particularly those escaping from the bleakest months of the European or North American winter, but Malaysians spend much of their time trying to avoid the heat. Increasingly, people work, play and sleep in air-con. This is especially true of urban areas like Kuala Lumpur, where temperatures … read the full post

One of the near universal truths of travelling is that taking the time to learn a few words of the local language easily repays the effort. Kuala Lumpur is somewhat of an exception to that rule, as apart from helping to decipher some obscure menu items, English is so widely spoken that a knowledge of … read the full post

It’s a bit like waiting for a bus: you hang round for ages for a major festival, and then five come along in quick succession. First up is Deepavali, then Christmas, (Western) New Year, Chinese New Year, and last but not least, Thaipusam. The latter may not be well known outside southern India, but for … read the full post

Whatever the tourism authorities would have you believe, Malaysia does not do beach half as well as Thailand, particularly for the independent traveller. But the country does have some very attractive beach destinations, such as tiny Pulau Rawa, part of the same chain of east coast islands as Pulau Tioman. Pulau Rawa is one of the … read the full post

Kuala Lumpur is a pleasingly green city, in terms of public open spaces and abundant foliage, if not in genuine eco-friendliness. But you are never far from the noise and air pollution that comes with modern urban life. Fortunately, KL has a great resource on its doorsteps where it is possible to immerse yourself in … read the full post

Although a well-established practice in many other southeast Asian countries, particularly Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam, eateries run on charitable principles are rather thin on the ground in Kuala Lumpur. This is partly because the city has less desperately poor people than say Phnom Penh or Bangkok. It is also down to cultural attitudes towards charity. … read the full post

No sooner is Christmas over in Kuala Lumpur than preparations start for Chinese New Year (CNY), arguably the city’s most important festival. Also known as Lunar New Year or the Spring Festival, it marks the start of the first month of the Chinese lunar calendar. Rotating cycles are used to name the year after an … read the full post

Malaysia has one of the sanest and most hassle-free tourist visa procedures in all of Asia, with most visitors being granted a free 30-to-90 day Social Visit Pass on arrival. Compare that to virtually every other country in the region, which are not only more stingy with the time they grant travellers, but also charge … read the full post