Occupying a corner plot, the white four-storey Happy 11 Backpacker guesthouse does a good job of living up to its name. Formerly a lakeside institution, the owners and staff have been helping travellers to Phnom Penh relax for many years. The new location in a mainly residential area is a five-minute walk to the river and a short moto ride to attractions such as the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom.

Tough choice: pool, DVD or hammock?

Happy 11 offers single and twin rooms, all with private bathrooms and the option of fan cooling or air-con with hot water ($8-15). The tiled rooms are spacious enough to swing more than one cat, and the bathrooms are reasonably, if not spotlessly, clean. Most rooms look out onto the street, so you can watch the daily activities of the Khmer neighbourhood. Free WiFi is available in the downstairs lobby bar and on the rooftop and the friendly staff can arrange tickets, tours and visas.

Prices are comparable with similar backpacker joints, but if you are looking for cheaper fan rooms without the communal buzz, try Diamond Guesthouse a couple of blocks closer to the river on Street 13. If it's full and you want a similar vibe, jump on a moto to Top Banana on the corner of St 278 and 51, but be warned it's known for its parties, not its tranquility.

What really sets Happy 11 apart is its breezy green rooftop restaurant, bar and chill out lounge, although be prepared for Jack Johnson on a near constant loop.  Perfect for whiling away a lazy day in a hammock, there's a pool table, a selection of DVDs and plenty of backpackers with tall tales to hook up with. Things liven up later in the day, when the cheap cocktails and draft beer being to flow.

It's a long way up to that roof ...

Consistently popular with a young crowd, you might want to call ahead in high season to make sure you get a room. While a member of staff will happily carry your pack for you, the flights of stairs mean this isn't the best choice for the unfit. Despite the number of rooms the place isn't noisy, although the neighbourhood cockerel and inconsiderate guests might disturb light sleepers. Choose a room on the lower floors to avoid the bar's music if you want to get an early night.

Happy 11 Backpackers
87-89 Street 136, Phnom Penh
T: (012) 999 921 / (088) 777 7421
happy11gt@hotmail.com 

Tags: backpacker, Happy 11 Backpacker

It's an impossible challenge to spend any time in Phnom Penh's tourist areas without being approached by hawkers, beggars or tuk tuk drivers. Street commerce is a fact of life here, but for some visitors the constant “Wanna buy book?” and “OK, tuk tuk” get a bit wearing. So how can you deal with the hassle?

How do you score on the tuk tuk challenge?

For your own sanity, it's good to remember that motos and tuk tuk drivers are just doing their job -- even if they have heard you say "no" to the last five drivers, maybe you've changed your mind. A polite “no thank you” or even better “ortey awkun” will generally be rewarded with a smile and a shrug. A friend of mine tries to beat his personal best each time he walks down the riverside – the record currently stands at over 25 offers of transport between the night market and the FCC.

If you want to walk – and sometimes it feels like an eccentricity – try crossing over to the promenade side of the riverfront, where you only have to dodge energetic locals engaged in dancing or determined strolling. Alternatively, head into the wider city, away from riverside, the Royal Palace and the museums. A mere three blocks from the river, you may actually need to hunt down a tuk tuk, rather than dodge the constant offers.

Riverside can be quiet enough for a snooze

If you're staying in one place, enjoying a cheap beer or a cocktail, it's likely that your conversation will be interrupted by a steady stream of cute kids selling books, bracelets and scarves. Some visitors enjoy these interactions with the surprisingly good English and sense of humour that accompanies them, but it's worth understanding the reasons why it may not be a good idea to buy.

Additionally, you'll meet disabled adults who are proud to be working rather than begging, selling books or playing an instrument in return for a few thousand riel. You'll also be approached by beggars clutching children or displaying missing limbs with hands outstretched. Some people have a daily budget and give small amounts to everyone who meets their personal charity criteria. Others prefer to make a donation to one of the many NGOs working to help street sleepers and disadvantaged Khmers.

If your patience is wearing thin, try selecting outdoor seating that's not right at the roadside, or head upstairs to one of the balconies or rooftop bars where you can finish your sentence and your glass in peace. And then hope there's a tuk tuk driver waiting to offer you a ride when it's time to move on.

Further reading:
Siem Reap blogger Nicky explains why giving money to street kids is a really terrible idea 

Tags: riverside hassle

I really want to start this review with a pun about wanting to put down my roots at the Plantation. I won't though, as I'm sure it's been used a hundred times already -- I'm not sure how you could stay here and not want to put your roots down. The Plantation is lovely, and, at the moment, outstanding value.

Canoodling to the left, baking to the right.

Set across over half a hectare of prime real estate in central Phnom Penh, Plantation hides behind a white wall on Street 184, spitting distance to the Palace, National Musuem and cafe chic Street 240. Previously the Ministry of Labour, the front building dates back to the 1930s and now houses reception and the business centre. The hotel's rooms are stacked in three separate buildings behind, two of which overlook the very tempting 20-metre swimming pool. Squirrelled away to the side there's a second 12-metre pool, gleaming with tiles like shot Thai silk, and an attached bar. This latter pool is open to the general public while the former, with its draped-curtains-for-private-canoodling poolside, is for guests only.

Rooms come in three main flavours: superior in an annex with no pool view, superior and deluxe rooms with a pool view. I ended up in a ground floor room in the annex (US$55 per night through Agoda) and for that I got a very good-sized (the website says 22 sqm but it feels bigger) room with cool tiles under foot a half open-plan bathroom, big, comfortable bed and a small terrace looking over a (very muddy thanks to wet season) garden. Facilities include a very large LCD TV, WiFi, minibar, safe and a solid wooden bench/desk ideal for any work you have to do. Decor's minimal, a Khmer silk throw here, a plant cutting there, but with large glass panes overlooking my terrace and the garden it all came together nicely and didn't feel overdone.

Look at that man bag!

For the money, I felt the room was excellent value, especially considering the pools, but there were minor irritants.

For starters, the WiFi, while free, has the password set in the browser rather than the WiFi connection, meaning every time I sat down to work, the password had timed-out and had to be re-entered. Not the end of the world I know, but annoying and totally unnecessary.

The shower has no door -- not even a curtain -- and the basin is in the bedroom, opposite the door to the room. Now my room was reasonably private, so this wasn't a huge deal, but those more privacy-minded, or with a more exposed room, should keep this in mind. No bum gun either.

Khmer silks, green flourishes and a big-ass TV.

"Well, draw the curtains," I hear you say -- I did -- the only problem was they didn't cover all the doors and, in fact, the curtain rod moved meaning I could choose to cover one entire section of glass, or the other -- but not both. Not ideal!

Wet season in Phnom Penh was well underway during my stay, which didn't help for the mud in my garden, and I almost slipped over twice walking by the pool on very slippery concrete -- families with kids will want to watch them by the pool.

The pool for the "outsiders".

In the scheme of things though, these are very minor gripes and coming from the team who put the original Elsewhere, Pavilion and Kabiki together, they've really outdone themselves this time around. I found the staff to be helpful and professional throughout my stay -- even if one waiter mistook my order of a cafe latte for a chicken satay!

The location is about five minutes' on foot to the the Tonle Sap, Royal Palace and National Musuem. It's close to the cafes along Street 240, or try fancy Khmer at Romdeng.

I booked my two-night stay through Agoda which cost US$55 per night including tax and breakfast and I'd classify that as outstanding value. If I was to stay again though, I'd probably pay the little extra for a pool view room.

Truth be told, $55 is a veritable splurge for me and I'd normally stay somewhere like Bright Lotus 1 (on Street 178 but much closer to the river) which is less than half the price. If you want something fancier still, the nearby Pavilion delivers the goods.

All up, if you're looking for a very new property with a bevy of facilities, including a terrific swimming pool, look no further.

The Plantation
28 Street 184
Phnom Penh
T:(023) 215 151
http://theplantation.asia/
Discounted rates at Agoda.com

Looking for another opinion? Khmer440 has a review of the rather salubrious suite (a little out of our budget!)

Tags: plantation

A short stroll from Independence Monument, Villa Khmer is situated on a leafy side street off Norodom Boulevard. The red and black décor adds a chic touch which emphasises that this isn't just another cheap eatery. There's a choice of seating in the airy bamboo courtyard, including a cabana with a low table for relaxed group dining. Upstairs offers more secluded eating areas, including a private dining room which can be booked in advance.

Everything tastes better out of a clay pot.

The restaurant specialises in north Cambodian folk cuisine and it's the perfect place to explore Khmer food beyond amok and lok lak. To help you on your way, the menu includes an explanation of some of the key ingredients. We'd recommend the salads (from US$2) to get your taste buds tingling with papaya, shrimps, banana flower and green mango, plus lashings of fish sauce. Other specialities include a choice of 12 soups, roasted frogs (US$8.75 for a large plate) and deep fried whole fish (US$9.50). The plates are generously portioned: a small dish with rice is ample for a single diner. To finish off, the selection of one dollar desserts – love cake, palm fruit with sticky rice, banana and coconut tapioca, Kapok tree resin - is just begging for a tasting session.

The biggest draw here, however, is the lunchtime buffet from 11:30 to 14:00, which is excellent value for money at US$2.75. A typical grazing includes a choice of steamed and fried rice, ground pork with aubergine, curried vegetables, omelette, lotus shoot salad and pork soup, plus a sticky sweet potato with coconut dessert and fresh fruit. As in any good Asian restaurant, the tea is free.

They do a buffet, apparently.

Villa Khmer is bustling with Cambodian and foreign office workers at lunchtime, and is a favourite with groups of friends and couples daytime and evening. If you want a food adventure, but with real cutlery and the option of a bottle of wine, this place is for you.

Thanks to the number of tables, you generally won't have to wait to be seated. If you do need an immediate alternative, Sweet restaurant nestled in a 1960s villa next door should satisfy your Khmer food cravings. If you're not as concerned about ambiance, nearby Sovanna is justifiably popular for its wide-ranging menu of local fare, but hearing yourself talk can be a struggle.

Villa Khmer
‪#21B Street 294, Phnom Penh
T: (097) 898 5539

Tags: Villa Khmer

As the mercury shows no signs of dropping for at least another month, there's no better way to cool down than spending some time poolside in Phnom Penh. If you're lucky, you've checked into one of the Phnom Penh guesthouses that has a pool. If you're slumming it, or didn't realise how essential a pool was until you got here and experienced the sauna heat, worry not: there are plenty of opportunities to don your budgie-smugglers.

You may never want to leave the Blue Lime.

Flashpackers or those who want a taste of the high-life should pop by one of the city's luxury hotels. For about US$8-$10 during the week (pricier at weekends), you can laze around on loungers or get in some serious laps, as these pools tend to be the largest. Himawari Hotel, Hotel Cambodiana and the Intercontinental all accept outside visitors and provide towels, but remember that food and drink come with five-star price tags. For a real splurge, Raffles Hotel Le Royal's pool is surrounded by beautiful gardens and colonial buildings, but at US$20 a time it's definitely not for shallow pockets.

Most expats have their favourite secret hideaway for holidays and hangovers. Among these we'd count the 252 and Blue Lime, which charge US$3-5 for a swim in lush garden settings, although the best beds are reserved for guests. It's easy to while away a day in one of these oases, and you may even forget you're in the crazy capital altogether.

If you're on a budget, the pools at The Eighty8 and Sundance Inn are more for paddling and tanning, but free to use as long as you're spending money in the restaurant. There's a friendly vibe at both and plenty of backpackers to chat with while you're dipping your toes and sipping a beer.

Pool rules: certainly does!

Water Park towards the airport has slides and plenty of splashing, but it gets very busy at weekends. Serious swimmers might like to check out the Olympic Stadium's 50-metre pool and five-metre diving board. Although facilities are a little basic and shade is limited, there's plenty of space to swim and perfect that double pike.

Heading to Temple Town? Discover the best swimming pools in Siem Reap.

Himawari Hotel
313 Sisowath Quay,
Phnom Penh
T: (023) 214 555
www.himawarihotel.com

Hotel Cambodiana
313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 426 288
www.hotelcambodiana.com.kh

Intercontinental Hotel
296 Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 424 888
www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/phnompenh

Raffles Hotel Le Royal
92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh
T:  (023) 981 888
www.raffles.com/phnom-penh

Blue Lime
42, Street 19z (off Street 19), Phnom Penh
T: (023) 222 260
www.bluelime.asia

The 252
19 Street 252,
 Phnom Penh
T: (023) 998 252
www.the-252.com

The Eighty8
98 Street 88, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 500 2440
www.facebook.com/Eighty8Hotel

Sundance Inn
‪61AB Street 172, Phnom Penh
T: (016) 802 090
www.sundancecambodia.com

Phnom Penh Water Park
No. 50, Confederation de la Russie, Phnom Penh
T:  (023) 881 008

Olympic Stadium
Street 163, Phnom Penh

Tags: pools, swimming

We stumbled across this short (one-minute long) video that explains oh so well some of the very simple reasons why you shouldn't give money to child beggars in Cambodia (or anywhere for that matter). The video was produced by Friends International, who have been running a campaign to raise awareness of the issues faced by kids in Cambodia. Set aside a minute and give it a watch.

Phnom Penh is doing a good job of getting noticed recently, sometimes via shameless self-promotion. So it was no surprise that on an overcast Saturday afternoon in April, more than 1,000 young people gathered at Wat Botom park to try and enter the Guinness Book of World Records by dancing the Madison.

Left foot, right foot, step, step, jump!

The Madison, in case you're wondering, is a line dance from the 1960s which is featured in the movie Hairspray. Think along the lines of the Locomotion or, shudder, the Macarena. While it's now almost unknown in the United States where it originated, Khmers still love the rom Madizone. It's a favourite at Khmer New Year gatherings, and no wedding celebration is complete without it.

The big dance was organised by Loy9, a mass media campaign with TV and radio shows made and presented by young Khmers. Decked out with Loy9 baseball caps, stickers and face stamps, excitable participants took their numbered places, lining up across Wat Botom park.

Wat Botom is a popular place for dusk aerobic dance classes, where instructors set up with boom boxes and punters pay to shake their funky stuff in the name of exercise. The Madison is a cert during these sessions – the left foot, right foot kick, some fancy bits in the middle and a sweep and hop to change direction.

Happy to be here!

More traditional Khmer dancing involves graceful hand movements and careful steps in a circle. Unless you've been schooled since childhood, it can be difficult to get both elements co-ordinated at the same time. The Madison, however, is a little more raucous, with plenty of hand claps and cheers. So long as you start on the left foot and face the same direction as everyone else, it's easy to bluff your way through.

As the previous mass Madison record was a measly 459 dancers, chances are good for the new Cambodian record, as soon as video footage and witness reports have been verified by the judges at Guinness. “I just wanted to be a part of it,” said Ros Sophy, her face covered with stickers. “It's amazing – we've done something to prove to the world that Cambodia has some talent.”

"Madizone is my favourite dance. I learnt it by watching at weddings and every Khmer New Year,” said Channarath Soum. “The moves are nice and I'm excited to be here. When there's a world record attempt in your own city, it's rude not to join in!”

It's to be hoped that the few brave barang who joined in didn't scupper the record attempt by not being as fleet of foot as the Cambodian teenagers. But they'll be a lot more confident at the next wedding when guests start lining up to rom Madizone.

Tags: The Madison, Wat Botom, world records

Cambodia is firmly in the grip of the hot season and Phnom Penh can feel hotter than a bowl of chillies on a barbecue. With daytime temperatures reaching 40 degress Celsius, plus 70 percent humidity, even the locals are melting. It can be a killer, so here's some tips to stay healthy in the heat.

It may look beautiful now, but that sun's a killer.

The most important advice is to drink water. It sounds simple, but most of us are dehydrated at this time of year. Dr Gavin Scott, of the Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic, recommends drinking at least four litres of water a day. “The average adult in Europe loses one litre of water through the lungs, skin, urine and stools in a day, and needs to drink one to two litres a day. In a tropical country depending on your environment -- indoors, air-con, fan, or outdoors -- these losses will be double or triple. Therefore, in Cambodia we should all be drinking at least four to six litres of water a day.”

Royal D rehydration sachets have near-mythical powers as a hangover cure, and are perfect for hot weather replenishment. Only 500 riel from any pharmacy, the orange flavour tastes better than the tropical fruit version. Dr Gavin's a big fan: “It makes you feel better and keeps blood pressure normal. Drink as many as you can in a day!”

You can also try the traditional Cambodian rehydration remedy of coconut water, full of minerals with plenty of potassium. Sadly, coffee and alcohol don't have quite the same rehydration value and should be avoided in excess.

Try a coconut to keep you cool.

Accept that you're going to sweat, more than you thought was possible. Even sitting down and expending no energy other than lifting an icy drink to your mouth is going to break you out. Other than making you feel sticky and icky, sweat can also lead to heat rash. Crevices are particularly at risk – knees, elbows, backsides, even between your fingers. Locals use talc in abundance, and the best I've found is Curash. The US$6 spend is well worth saving yourself from the itch. Frequent cold showers and air-con are also good preemptive measures, and prevention is better than cure. Dr Gavin warns that once you have a sweat rash, it may continue until the weather cools.

Act like a vampire and stay out of the sun. You don't need to go all Twilight and you can leave the cape at home, but avoiding the sun is the best way to keep cool. Check for the shady side of the street, wear a hat, and take a tuk tuk instead of walking. You should try to avoid strenuous exercise or physical activity outdoors – if you want to pound the gym, make sure it's got air-con.

Being vigilant in the heat is important. Dehydration can kill in three days, and older people and kids should take particular care. If you're feeling light-headed, vomiting or you stop sweating, don't take chances – visit the doctor.

Tags: coconuts, curash, hot season, Phnom Penh doctors

This week a contemporary art exhibition, Five Years of Meta House: Continuing Conversations, opened at Meta House in Phnom Penh featuring work from their permanent collection. While I have previously only mentioned Meta House as a place to see a movie, they've also been exhibiting art from Khmer and foreign artists for the past five years in the gallery downstairs.

Exploring how art intersects with haircut signs.

Continuing Conversations, curated by Australian Roger Nelson, features the work of 18 artists, 10 of whom are Khmer. It features leading figures in the Cambodia art world including Sopheap Pich, Leang Seckon, and the late Svay Ken, as well as up-and-comers Khvay Samnang and Veasna Tith.

"Cambodian art is as enthralling, original, and swiftly changing as every other aspect of this nation's development. Artists today work in a wide range of media, with an increasing number adopting photography, video, performance and new media technologies. They make work relating to the nation's ancient and recent past, its complex and contradictory present, and its uncertain and exciting future," said Nelson, who previously ran a non-profit art gallery in Melbourne and is now undertaking a residency in Phnom Penh.

Continuing Conversations explores the intersections and overlaps between the pieces, the patriarchs of the Cambodian art scene and its rising stars, as well as with Meta House itself. For example, one of the pieces uses Meta House's first movie screen as its canvas and another, by Sokuntevy Oeur, which explores the artist's relationship with her parents, was created while the artist was living on the old Meta House premises after leaving her parents' home.

Don't call him the puppet master, he's the curator.

"Despite the extraordinary range and quality of Khmer artists' work, Cambodia has been arguably the last Southeast Asian country to attract an international appreciation and market for its contemporary art," Nelson said."In the five years since Meta House was established, that has begun to change. This exhibition hopes to open up new ways to appreciate the richness of contemporary art in Cambodia."

The show is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 to 22:00. The show will run for between two and four weeks (to be decided). Admission is free.

Tags: art, Meta House

It appears that the time that expats in Cambodia refer to as "robbery season" is already upon us. Every year the weeks leading up to Khmer New Year see an unofficial upswing in petty crime in Phnom Penh, presumably as some of those who need to return to the provinces for the holiday flush with cash do whatever it takes to get it.

If you get robbed, a security guard will be no help. Find the tourist police.

On Saturday night as I was walking home from a night out on Street 51 a young man jumped out of the shadows and tried to grab my Khmer friend's purse, nearly knocking her over in the process. Luckily, he wasn't successful, but the experience reminded me that one needs to be on guard.

During our last robbery season (the weeks before the Water Festival in November) I gave some tips on how to avoid having your bag snatched, particularly while in a tuk tuk or moto.

The same rules apply if you're on foot.

Don't play with your phone while you're out walking -- it means you're not paying attention to your surroundings and most phones are very appealing to would-be robbers.

For women, until after Khmer New Year, I'd suggest not walking around alone at night. Phnom Penh is usually quite safe (and still is) but in my opinion, the risk of robbery is not worth it. If you do hit the streets at night, try and go with a friend and don't bring a purse. Thieves are drawn to purses like flies to honey. The fact that most purses contain a $20 Nokia, broken lipstick and scraps of paper will not deter them; they are hoping for the one that's filled with gold doubloons. Better to not give them the option.

When you go home by tuk tuk, ask your tuk tuk driver to walk you to the door. The best way to encourage him to do this is to not pay him until you get to your door, leaving him no choice but to escort you.

And, if you do get robbed: remain calm. It is rare that foreigners have been hurt during robberies with the exception of those who try to resist, so don't put up a fight.

Most travel insurance policies require a police report to process your claim. In Cambodia, expect to pay a small bribe to get your police report written. (Remember that policemen do not make enough money to feed their families without charging extra fees for their services.) Start your offer at $5. If you are calm and collected, you should be able to get through the whole process for under $20 depending on the value of possessions stolen and how hysterical you appear, although some tourists report paying more. Most police in Cambodia do not speak much English, so it's often easiest to go back to your guesthouse and ask someone there to accompany you as a translator. Your embassy may also assist if you've been the victim of a crime.

Phnom Penh Tourist Police T: (023) 726 158; (097) 778 0002

Australia Embassy: T: (023) 213 470
US Embassy: For emergencies during business hours call (023) 728 281; (023) 728 051; (023) 728 234. Outside of normal business hours call (023) 728 000.
UK Embassy: T: (023) 427124. Outside of normal business hours call (023) 427 124; (023) 428 153.

See a fuller list of embassies on Travelfish.org here.

Tags: robberies