It's not hard to have a Happy Merry Christmas in Phnom Penh. There are lots of things to do in town during the holiday week, or of course, the possibility of an island getaway. If it's a traditional or not-so-traditional Christmas dinner you're after, you've got lots of choices, from low-budget to posh.

How to say "season's greetings" in Khmer: Happy Merry Christmas!

Here are some of the options for Christmas dinner in Phnom Penh this year:

The Lazy Gecko will be doing a Christmas dinner on the afternoon of the 25th that will feature roast turkey, ham, home-made turkey gravy, Yorkshire pudding and dessert. The price hasn't been set yet, but it will definitely be under $10. They'll also be playing a game of street cricket on St 258 after dinner. Reservations are recommended. T: (077) 569 484.

Hagar is offering a Christmas buffet for $17 or $7 for kids on the 24th and 25th. They'll be featuring roast turkey, beef, lamb and lots of fish options. If you're a dessert lover, they're promising six or seven desserts including Christmas cookies and mince pies. Reservations required. T: (070) 221 501.

The Pickled Parrot/Tonle Sap Guesthouse bar is doing a three-course spread that includes roast pork, roast turkey and ham, plus a real Christmas fruitcake for dessert. December 25 at 14:00. Cost is $19.50 and they ask that tickets be bought in advance at the bar. T: (023) 986 722.

Alley Cat is offering turkey with sage and onion stuffing, ham with cranberries, lamb and all the fixings. They're also be serving mince pies and eggnog. Mains are $14 or the three-course blowout costs $19.50 and reservations are highly advised. The three-course dinner is a single sitting at 16:30 on Christmas day. Call (012) 306 845 for reservations.

Green Vespa is offering a traditional spread that includes turkey and ham with all the fixings, or a vegetarian pie or a Black Angus fillet steak and Christmas pudding. Cost is $17.50-27.50 depending on which options you choose. They'll be offering dinner on the 24th, 25th and 26th, but booking in advance is required. T: (012) 887 228.

Aussie XL does roast turkey, honey-glazed ham and roast beef with roast potatoes, pumpkin and a Christmas pudding for $24. First come, first served, starting at 12:00 on Christmas day. T: (023) 301 001.

The FCC is doing a lavish spread that includes duck confit, turkey, ham and lamb, something involving feta cheese and dessert for $55 on December 24 and 25. Reservations required. T: (063) 760 280.

The Cambodiana Hotel is hosting a Christmas day barbecue by the pool for $30 per person. They promise that Santa Claus will make an appearance. No word on whether you'll be allowed to sit on his lap, however. Reservations required. T:  (023) 426 288; (078) 809 984.

Raffles will be recreating "a typical European Christmas marketplace" with a five-course dinner menu which will "offer traditional family favourites that will bring warm memories of prior Christmas’ in colder climes." [Ed: We guess they are not targetting Australians!] The price? $105++ or $155++ with wine, and dinner will include a piano concert. December 25, 18:30 to 22:30. Formal dress, and reservations are required. T: (023) 981 888.

Tags: Alley Cat, Aussie XL, Cambodiana Hotel, Christmas, FCC, Green Vespa, Hagar, Lazy Gecko, Pickled Parrot, Raffles Hotel

If you're planning on being in Phnom Penh across Christmas (rather than say escaping to beautiful Koh Rong), there are more than a few ways to spend an enjoyable afternoon. The locals, who are mostly Buddhist, don't celebrate the holiday so restaurants and bars are still open for business.

That doesn't mean there's a lack of holiday spirit, however. Santa Claus costumes are popular for children, and you'll see toddlers standing on the back of motos in full Christmas getup. Ever friendly, Khmers will wish you a Happy Merry Christmas for the entire second half of December.

Happy Merry Christmas!

There are lots of options for traditional Christmas dinners in Phnom Penh -- I'll cover them here later in the week. But if you're interested in having a more local Christmas that's substantially cheaper, consider a beer garden barbecue such as 54 Langeach Sros.

Another option is to get out of the heat and see a movie or consider one of these daytime activities in Phnom Penh. If you've been thinking about having afternoon tea, Raffles has a Khmer children's choir singing Christmas carols (and you can probably go have a listen without having tea, if you prefer).

Something different again would be a river cruise on the Tonle Sap. Kanika Cruises offers sunset and dinnertime cruises each day. The cruises themselves are free of charge, but for a sunset cruise they ask that you spend a minimum of $7 on food or drink and at dinnertime there's a minimum spend of $10. With daily beer specials for $1 and a cocktail special for $2.50, you can get a lot of mileage out of that minimum spend. Their office is located at the rear of the Himawari. You don't need to book in advance, but they did say that it's worth calling in advance to make sure they don't have any private parties reserved.

Kanika Cruises
Himawari Hotel (through the foyer)
313 Sisowath Quay
T: (012) 848 802; (089) 848 959

Tags: 54 Langeach Sros, choirs, Christmas, Christmas carols, cruises, Kanika Cruises

I've already covered international clothing labels available in Phnom Penh, but did you know there are local designers, too?

Yes, there is fashion in Cambodia!

There are a number of Cambodian designers and Cambodians raised abroad who have come back to Cambodia and are now designers: SCT (Sar Chantho) is a Cambodian designer based in Phnom Penh outfitting locals and expats; Lady Penh Designs on Sisowath Quay offer a selection of casual cotton dresses, tops and handbags; and Romy Daketh, who runs Ambre, is a favourite among well-heeled Khmers and expats.

Also jostling for position in the market are a number of foreign-born designers now based in Cambodia and working with Cambodian artisans and textiles to create their unique styles. KeoK'jay's fashion-forward designs compliment their green business practices and goal to offer employment to women living with HIV. Wanderlust features brightly-coloured cotton dresses, casual tops and shirt-dresses; while they're Siem Reap-based, they do have a store on Street 240 in Phnom Penh. Madagascar-born designer, Eric Raisina, has been based in Cambodia for 10 years, creating "haute texture" out of Cambodian silk.

Work it. Photo courtesy of Cambodia Fashion Week.

If you're interested in learning more about the Cambodian fashion industry, and not just the part that takes place in garment factories, consider attending Cambodia Fashion Week's Fashion Exhibition. Taking place on November 5 and 6, the fashion exhibition will feature Cambodian designers from abroad as well as expat designers based in Cambodia (designers Ambre and Wanderlust mentioned above will not be featured, but all other designers listed will be.)

Featured designers will be: Remy Hou (USA), Coco Wellington and Two Wonders (New Zealand), and La’Or (Australia) as well as Cambodia-based designers Jasmine Boutique and Sentosa Silk.

I talked to Caitlin Padgett, the producer of the event. "I'm really excited about the exhibition because it provides the opportunity for people in Phnom Penh to access designers that don't usually have retail spaces here. Some will actually be selling their collections from the fashion shows, a whole season early," Padgett said. "The exhibition brings a really interesting and innovative group of designers together in one space, and includes runway shows that feature more accessible day wear and ready-to-wear looks."

Cambodia Fashion Week... where pyjamas go to die.

And while Cambodia Fashion Week might be a polarising event -- some think it's in poor taste and not representative of "true" Cambodian fashion, which favours bold prints and pyjama-like pieces over couture -- even the skeptics will appreciate the fact that CFW's Fashion Exhibition will feature a showcase of items from Cambodia-based socially responsible businesses and NGOs, including Friends International, Good Krama, Push Pull Cambodia, Keok'Jay and La'Or.

"The ethical fashion showcase merges fashion and socially responsible designs and production," Padgett said. "These designers maintain the importance of preserving traditional techniques in interesting and modern fusion fashion."

The two-day event will feature runway shows, music, canapes and champagne.

Cambodia Fashion Week Fashion Exhibition
November 5, 10:00-17:00
November 6, 11:00-18:00
Canadia Tower, 6th Floor
St 110 and Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh
Entrance fees are $15 for one day, or $25 for both days.

Tags: Ambre, Cambodia Fashion Week, Eric Raisina, fashion designers, Jasmine Boutique, KeoK'jay, Lady Penh Designs, Sentosa Silk, silk, Wanderlust

A new campaign launched by Friends International today encourages travellers to stop visiting orphanages in Cambodia. The campaign asks tourists to take photos of Friends' posters around Cambodia and post them with a link to the Friends' website on Twitter and Facebook to warn other travellers of the damage such visits can cause. We asked Friends' Executive Director Sebastien Marot a few questions about the background to the campaign.

Now this is a sight to see.

What triggered the campaign's introduction today?

As this campaign is aimed at travellers, we timed our campaign to launch just prior to one of the main tourist seasons in Cambodia.

Is it true to say that even calling the places kids are being institutionalised in Cambodia orphanages is incorrect, given about three-quarters of the children still have living parents?

Technically these are all temporary residential care centres. Orphanages is a term generally used and often (mis)understood by the public. Although many of the children do have a living parent or parents, their situation is much the same as a ‘true’ orphan, in that they have been physically removed from their family and community for social or other reasons.

In Thailand we understand that it's not unusual for poor families to put their children into such institutions for a few years, but the understanding is that the children will return home when they can afford to look after them. Is there a similar situation in Cambodia?

Do you know which research has taken place on this situation in Thailand? We would be grateful if you could share with us. [Ed: No research, but heard this repeatedly anecdotally in the 2000s.]

The alternative care continuum in Cambodia does allow for this, but one difficulty is the current model of residential care in Cambodia is still very much based on the needs that were prevalent in the immediate post Khmer Rouge/conflict years, and does not reflect Cambodia as it is in the 21st century.

What is being done at the government level, if anything, to encourage families to keep their children with them rather than put them into institutions? Outside the government, are many NGOs working on this?

The Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC) issued minimum standards for care in 2008. In 2010 a draft praka regarding alternative care was adopted by the RGC.

At the moment a core group of organisations are involved in implementing this, as the roll out gathers momentum then more will become involved.

We see from your figures that the number of orphanages in Cambodia has grown by 65% since 2005, correlating to the rise in tourism. Do you believe there is direct causation? Are other factors at play as well, such as women relocating to urban centres to work in the garment sector in order to support their families?

This is an interesting trend, however at this time no firm evidence exists to indicate that there is direct correlation. However, given the development progress made in Cambodia this century, what is the justification for this increase? It would suggest that there is indeed a link.

How does having children in these institutions harm their development and emotional well-being?

Please visit our website for more information. Many global studies have also highlighted the impact of institutionalisation upon young people. Please see for instance this from Save the Children.

Once people have spread the word about the perils of visiting orphanages, what can they do if they want to help keep families together while on their travels, or afterwards?

Our suggestion is to support organisations who invest time and energy in strengthening families and communities, allowing children to remain with the family rather than being placed into residential care. Our campaign website gives some information on organisations like these.

Tags: Friends International, orphanage tourism, orphanages

For less than the price you’d pay for a pint while watching a Premier League game at a pub back home, you can see a professional football match in Phnom Penh. The season is in full swing right now and with Cambodia hosting Asian Football Confederation President’s Cup games this weekend, there are a lot of chances to catch a match.

The Cambodian League plays to a rapt audience at Olympic Stadium.

The Football Federation of Cambodia was founded in 1933 and has been a member of FIFA since 1953. The Metfone C-League is the top division of the Cambodian Football Federation, and games, which are usually held at Olympic Stadium, cost just 2,000 riel ($0.50) and provide an afternoon’s worth of local entertainment. You won't find Messi or Ronaldo, but the Cambodian league has recruited a number of foreign players, mostly African, to play alongside their Khmer counterparts and the league has a raft of dedicated young fans who are delighted by the fact that the games always have at least a few dramatic points scored.

I caught up with Andy Brouwer, Cambodia football journalist and enthusiast, and learned more about the league’s progress. "Cambodian football is developing slowly because they don't yet have the grassroots and youth development that other countries have," Brouwer told me via email. He writes a blog that is easily the most comprehensive English-language source of information on football in Cambodia.

Brouwer is particularly excited about the AFC President’s Cup games, being played May 21-25th at Olympic Stadium. "It’s the 3rd tier of what would be called Champions League in Europe, for Asian clubs. The competition for what are regarded as the 'emerging nations' like Cambodia is the President's Cup. Essentially Crown are representing Cambodia in the biggest club competition that any Cambodian team can enter. Only the champions of a national league can enter it." Brouwer explained.

Although Cambodia has played in the President’s Cup before, this will be the first time they will be hosting matches. So if you want to watch history being made, head down to Olympic Stadium this weekend and take in a game.

The schedule is as follows:
May 21 - 13:30 Neftchi (Kyrgyzstan) v Abahani (Bangladesh)
May 21 - 16:00 PPCFC (Cambodia) v Don Bosco (Sri Lanka)
May 23 - 13.30 Don Bosco v Neftchi
May 23 - 16:00 Abahani v PPCFC
May 25 - 13:30 Abahani v Don Bosco
May 25 - 16:00 PPCFC v Neftchi

But if you miss the President’s Cup, never fear. There are 64 more games this season in the Metfone C-League still to come, with the last one being played on September 3rd. You can find a schedule of the upcoming games on the official Cambodia League site, but most Wednesdays at 15:30 at Saturdays and Sundays at 14:00 and 16:00 you’ll be able to catch a match at Olympic Stadium.

Tags: AFC President's Cup, Cambodia League, Cambodian football, Metfone C-League, Olympic Stadium

Every other Monday Phnom Penh's expat population gather together to share their obsessive hobbies, interesting career choices and celebrate all things nerdy. The events are held at venues around the city and each have six or seven speakers who cover topics ranging from yoga to Khmer handicrafts to obscure English words. The format is called Pecha Kucha – each speaker presents 20 slides, showing each one for 20 seconds. The format is particularly well suited to presenting visual arts and design, but can be adapted to almost any topic.

Revenge of the Nerds, Phnom Penh-style

The event is organized by Yi Wei, Mike Hahn and Roswell Thomas, a group who saw a need in the expat community – nothing to do on Monday nights – and have been overwhelmed by the positive response. In a city with few activities that are not alcohol-centric, Nerd Night is immensely popular. It's more social event than intellectual assembly and they're getting larger every time.

I caught up with Nerd Night organizer Roswell Thomas via email. One of his favourite presentations was Giaccomo Butte's on teaching architecture to Khmer students. In his presentation, Giaccomo touched on Cambodian education and modern architecture, and "came up with some truly bizarre, profound little philosophical snippets" in less than seven minutes and with 20 slides.

One of the only gripes about Phnom Penh's Nerd Nights is that the topics aren't always purely nerdy. Roswell suggests that those who feel this way should step up and do their own presentation.

"A lot of people complain that some of these topics aren't nerdy, that we should have more people talking about computers and engineering and stuff. We're looking for more traditional nerd voices -- if you want to talk about your favorite obscure materials science controversy or talk about your collection of vintage computer punch cards, send me an e-mail right away." Roswell wrote.

"But the essence of "nerd" is passion, well-informed, or maybe over-informed. You are nerdy about something if you focus in on it in way too much detail, if you love it so much that you start talking about it and can't stop when everyone around you is obviously bored. (This is why we have our 20 second time limit on all the slides). That kind of nerd energy is a joy to watch, and I think we've been very lucky to get so much of it together in one place fortnight after fortnight."

They're looking for speakers for upcoming Nerd Nights so if you're going to be in town, it's a great way to meet people and share the things you are passionate about. If you are interested in learning more about Nerd Night or giving a presentation, check out their Facebook page or email the Nerd Night team.

Upcoming Nerd Nights:
May 9 – 8pm, 98 Street 88 (near intersection with 75), Phnom Penh. Map
May 22 – 6:30pm, Meta House *Off usual calendar schedule to accommodate Khmer speaker line-up
June 6 – venue tbd
June 20 – venue tbd
July 4 – venue tbd
July 18 – venue tbd

Tags: Nerd Night

The sign on the outside says Maxine’s, but the local expats that love it call it Snow’s or Snowy’s, after the charismatic Australian owner, Ian “Snow” Woodford. Last Friday Woodford was told that he would have to clear out, and this weekend is set to be the last in the long, storied history of a bar that is considered a Phnom Penh institution and whose owner is something close to a local celebrity.

Watching the sunset over the Tonle Sap at Snow's

Snow’s is a short trek across the Japanese Bridge on Chrouy Changva Peninsula. The tumble-down wooden house with a porch that hangs precariously out over the water is known for its stunning views of the sunsets over the Tonle Sap. The interior is decorated with artwork from local artists and Woodford himself, who makes paintings by covering traditional Khmer images with coloured and metallic dots, a technique called pointillism. The ceiling is hung with hundreds of brass bells and the face of Buddha looks out from every wall.

“We would have been here six years on Khmer New Year. We were the one Western place on this side of the river, the one red dot,” Woodford told me, obviously saddened by the situation. Snow’s is one of more than a hundred houses that are being cleared as part of a riverside beautification project that apparently began months ago with the addition of a number of large billboards facing Sisowath Quay. There are plans to put a garden where Snow’s and the many family homes now stand. “I knew it was going to happen,” Woodford said, “but not so fast. There are no games with these guys. When they say go, you go.”

Hundreds of brass bells decorate the bar at Snow's

A visit to Snow’s means getting to talk to Woodford and hearing his stories of days gone by. Woodford came to Cambodia in 1993, as a contractor for the UN. His job was to move 150 UNTAC Land Cruisers through Khmer Rouge occupied territory, a dangerous job that involved delicate negotiations, bribery and drinking homebrew with Khmer Rouge soldiers. When Matt Dillon came to Cambodia to film City of Ghosts, Woodford was cast in a small but memorable role as a quirky patron at a brothel. Hearing Woodford’s stories is as easy as sitting down next to him -- he’s quick to pull out his dog-eared scrapbook where he’s collected photos and memories of his time in Cambodia and show it to all interested parties.

But the end of Snow’s has come, and this weekend will be its last. Woodford is looking for another location but for now, Saturday night is the planned final bash. Rumour has it that the Cambodia contingent of El Dealbreakers will be playing (although said rumours have yet to be confirmed). Regardless, “it’s going to be quite a blowout,” Woodford promises.

Maxine’s / Snow’s
71 Tonle Sap Road, Chruoy Changva Peninsula, Phnom Penh
T: (012) 200 617.

Tags: Bars, El Dealbreakers, Eviction, Maxine's, Snow's, Snowy's

This March 5, Kep's sleepy atmosphere will make way for a musical collaboration as Eastern and Western performers come together for the 1st Kep Beach Festival.

Kep Beach Festival

The show kicks off with DJ Hoxup playing Khmer rock 'n roll from the 1960s and 1970s, with other artists ranging from the famous Khmer chapei player Ta Kong Nay through to European DJs including French DJ Stephane Arii, one of the organisers of past dance events atop Bokor Mountain.

We had a quick Q&A over email with one of the festival's organisers, Stefaan Lambrecht. Stefaan has been living in Cambodia for the last five years, running the decidedly charming Botanica Guesthouse in Kep. He explained that he and his co-organisers, including the Kep Ministry of Tourism, settled on Kep for the festival because they see great potential in the area and they're "striving to create an annual intercultural event where Khmer meets Western and where music, arts and culture bring people together."

The festival is supported by Kingdom Breweries, Ezecom and Asian Trails and a portion of the proceeds (drinks and food will be on sale) will be donated to Action Pour Les Enfants (APLE), a child-protection organisation in Cambodia.

They've got no idea how many people will show up as this is the first time something like this has been attempted in Kep, but they've got their fingers crossed for 500 people. So, if you've got nothing planned on March 5, head down to Kep, take in the tunes and support a worthy cause while you're at it.

The Kep Beach Festival kicks off at 14:00, running through till midnight and will be happening right on Kep beach.

Have fun!

Tomorrow night sees the third installment of Fruity, a monthly club night that started in December and promises some of the best tunage in town.

Dan Beck, formerly of Pontoon, will be DJing along with Cynthia Herman, aka Cyncity. This time they’ve got a special guest also on deck, Patrick Parco, who will be playing a dubstep set. At previous nights, they’ve played house, electro, hip hop and garage. They’re promising more of the same this week along with 80s screamers, 90s belters, and I’m holding out hope for some Italo hammers.

The event is being held at Me Mate’s Place, a popular new hostel run by a young Canadian and Australian couple whose cheap drinks and stylish setup have made it a favourite hangout for backpackers and locals alike.

For those of you who lament the lack of quality tunes in Phnom Penh, stop by Me Mate’s Place tomorrow evening for a buzz.

Fruity, Me Mate’s Place, St 90, between the riverside & Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh. T: (015) 605 051, 21:00-3:00 RSVP on Facebook

Tags: clubs, Fruity, tunes

Travel Tribe

This Thursday evening, travel professionals and enthusiasts will be meeting up to "share stories, ideas and drinks." Travel Tribe was originally conceived in Sydney as a way for travel site owners to meet up and network. There are now Travel Tribe events in cities on three continents where travel writers, bloggers, start-ups, enthusiasts and expats come together to mingle with like-minded souls.

Chris Noble, the founder of World Nomads, is in town for TedxPhnomPenh, and will be attending. Quite appropriately, of course, since many of our best travel stories involve that time when we finally had to make use of that travel insurance we never thought we’d need.

The Phnom Penh event will be held at Elsewhere on Street 278. It’s being organized by Anna Jura, a participant in the original Travel Tribe events in Sydney and a recent arrival to Phnom Penh. "We just rock up at a bar and chat travel," Jura told me, "It’s very casual; everyone is welcome."

I hope to see some Travelfish readers for chatting, drinking and networking on Thursday!

Phnom Penh Travel Tribe
Thursday, February 3rd, 18:00-23:00.
Elsewhere Bar, #2 Street 278, near Wat Langka.
T: (023) 211 348
RSVP on Facebook

Tags: #traveltribe, Elsewhere, travel, Travel Tribe