May 08 2012
We stumbled across this short (one-minute long) video that explains oh so well some of the very simple reasons why you shouldn't give money to child beggars in Cambodia (or anywhere for that matter). The video was produced by Friends International, who have been running a campaign to raise awareness of the issues faced by kids in Cambodia. Set aside a minute and give it a watch.
May 01 2012
Cambodia is firmly in the grip of the hot season and Phnom Penh can feel hotter than a bowl of chillies on a barbecue. With daytime temperatures reaching 40 degress Celsius, plus 70 percent humidity, even the locals are melting. It can be a killer, so here's some tips to stay healthy in the heat.
It may look beautiful now, but that sun's a killer.
The most important advice is to drink water. It sounds simple, but most of us are dehydrated at this time of year. Dr Gavin Scott, of the Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic, recommends drinking at least four litres of water a day. “The average adult in Europe loses one litre of water through the lungs, skin, urine and stools in a day, and needs to drink one to two litres a day. In a tropical country depending on your environment -- indoors, air-con, fan, or outdoors -- these losses will be double or triple. Therefore, in Cambodia we should all be drinking at least four to six litres of water a day.”
Royal D rehydration sachets have near-mythical powers as a hangover cure, and are perfect for hot weather replenishment. Only 500 riel from any pharmacy, the orange flavour tastes better than the tropical fruit version. Dr Gavin's a big fan: “It makes you feel better and keeps blood pressure normal. Drink as many as you can in a day!”
You can also try the traditional Cambodian rehydration remedy of coconut water, full of minerals with plenty of potassium. Sadly, coffee and alcohol don't have quite the same rehydration value and should be avoided in excess.
Try a coconut to keep you cool.
Accept that you're going to sweat, more than you thought was possible. Even sitting down and expending no energy other than lifting an icy drink to your mouth is going to break you out. Other than making you feel sticky and icky, sweat can also lead to heat rash. Crevices are particularly at risk – knees, elbows, backsides, even between your fingers. Locals use talc in abundance, and the best I've found is Curash. The US$6 spend is well worth saving yourself from the itch. Frequent cold showers and air-con are also good preemptive measures, and prevention is better than cure. Dr Gavin warns that once you have a sweat rash, it may continue until the weather cools.
Act like a vampire and stay out of the sun. You don't need to go all Twilight and you can leave the cape at home, but avoiding the sun is the best way to keep cool. Check for the shady side of the street, wear a hat, and take a tuk tuk instead of walking. You should try to avoid strenuous exercise or physical activity outdoors – if you want to pound the gym, make sure it's got air-con.
Being vigilant in the heat is important. Dehydration can kill in three days, and older people and kids should take particular care. If you're feeling light-headed, vomiting or you stop sweating, don't take chances – visit the doctor.
Mar 24 2012
It appears that the time that expats in Cambodia refer to as "robbery season" is already upon us. Every year the weeks leading up to Khmer New Year see an unofficial upswing in petty crime in Phnom Penh, presumably as some of those who need to return to the provinces for the holiday flush with cash do whatever it takes to get it.
If you get robbed, a security guard will be no help. Find the tourist police.
On Saturday night as I was walking home from a night out on Street 51 a young man jumped out of the shadows and tried to grab my Khmer friend's purse, nearly knocking her over in the process. Luckily, he wasn't successful, but the experience reminded me that one needs to be on guard.
During our last robbery season (the weeks before the Water Festival in November) I gave some tips on how to avoid having your bag snatched, particularly while in a tuk tuk or moto.
The same rules apply if you're on foot.
Don't play with your phone while you're out walking -- it means you're not paying attention to your surroundings and most phones are very appealing to would-be robbers.
For women, until after Khmer New Year, I'd suggest not walking around alone at night. Phnom Penh is usually quite safe (and still is) but in my opinion, the risk of robbery is not worth it. If you do hit the streets at night, try and go with a friend and don't bring a purse. Thieves are drawn to purses like flies to honey. The fact that most purses contain a $20 Nokia, broken lipstick and scraps of paper will not deter them; they are hoping for the one that's filled with gold doubloons. Better to not give them the option.
When you go home by tuk tuk, ask your tuk tuk driver to walk you to the door. The best way to encourage him to do this is to not pay him until you get to your door, leaving him no choice but to escort you.
And, if you do get robbed: remain calm. It is rare that foreigners have been hurt during robberies with the exception of those who try to resist, so don't put up a fight.
Most travel insurance policies require a police report to process your claim. In Cambodia, expect to pay a small bribe to get your police report written. (Remember that policemen do not make enough money to feed their families without charging extra fees for their services.) Start your offer at $5. If you are calm and collected, you should be able to get through the whole process for under $20 depending on the value of possessions stolen and how hysterical you appear, although some tourists report paying more. Most police in Cambodia do not speak much English, so it's often easiest to go back to your guesthouse and ask someone there to accompany you as a translator. Your embassy may also assist if you've been the victim of a crime.
Phnom Penh Tourist Police T: (023) 726 158; (097) 778 0002
Australia Embassy: T: (023) 213 470
US Embassy: For emergencies during business hours call (023) 728 281; (023) 728 051; (023) 728 234. Outside of normal business hours call (023) 728 000.
UK Embassy: T: (023) 427124. Outside of normal business hours call (023) 427 124; (023) 428 153.
See a fuller list of embassies on Travelfish.org here.
Mar 13 2012
Travelling around Cambodia can be... well, an adventure. Traffic laws are lax, drivers are brash (and by brash I mean reckless) and roads are poor. In 2011 there were 41 bus accidents in the country, and it's looking like 2012 may beat that. In the past few weeks alone, several high-profile bus accidents have left a number of tourists dead.
They look so innocent when they aren't on the road, don't they?
On March 8, a Rith Mony night bus between Poipet and Phnom Penh crashed, injuring seven, including three foreign nationals. On February 28, a Paramount Angkor Express bus (the sister company to Rith Mony) crashed between Sihanoukville and Koh Kong, killing two tourists injuring and injuring 45 more. Two days after that, a Virak Buntham Express bus headed from Phnom Penh to Poipet -- and driving on the wrong side of the road -- crashed, killing the driving and injuring many others.
The Cambodian government has reacted by calling for all bus companies to install "black boxes" that will monitor the speed of drivers. Since most drivers tend to flee the scene when their buses crash, whether this will help is doubtful.
This is particularly frightening because besides travelling by bus, there aren't a lot of other options for transport within Cambodia.
Here are a few tips for travelling as safely as possible by bus in Cambodia.
Avoid night buses. Night buses are particularly accident prone, probably because bus drivers still follow the typical Cambodian schedule and wake up early in the morning, which means they tend to fall asleep when working the night shift. There have been many night bus crashes in Cambodia. Personally, I wouldn't take one if you paid me.
Choose your bus company carefully. In 2011 Mekong Express was the only bus company that did not get in an accident -- they're the best choice for the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh to HCMC routes. Rith Mony is generally considered the company to avoid -- both in terms of service and constant breakdowns. The recent crash indicates that driver negligence is also a problem. Their sister company, Paramount Angkor Express, is little better.
Be brave and exit the vehicle. If you end up in a bus where the driver is driving in a way that makes you nervous, get off the bus. As much as a pain this may be, be aware that traffic accidents are the number one cause of death in Cambodia. If you think your driver is driving badly, get off the bus and find another way to get where you are going. It's not with risking your life over.
Jan 26 2012
As someone who spends a fair amount of time worrying about tropical diseases and offering advice to visitors to Cambodia, I figured there's no better way to combine the two than talking to doctors in Phnom Penh about new things for everyone to worry about.
Dr Nick Walsh is a public health physician and tropical disease specialist based in Melbourne and Phnom Penh -- you might remember him from the excellent advice he gave about the risks involved in taking drugs in Cambodia. He's back to answer questions you might have about malaria in Cambodia.
A beautiful time of day in Cambodia, and the one favoured by malaria-carrying mozzies.
Where in Cambodia is malaria a problem?
Dr Nick: In all areas of rural Cambodia adjacent to forested areas. Resistant malaria occurs mainly in forested areas in western Cambodia near the Thai-Cambodia border.
Do travellers to Cambodia need to take anti-malarials?
Dr Nick: Avoiding being bitten by mosquitoes is the main priority (DEET, nets, long sleeves, particular care at dusk), but if you are travelling in forested areas in rural Cambodia then you should take malaria prophylaxis. Doxycycline or Malarone are the most common.
If you choose not to take malaria prophylaxis, it is a good idea to carry 12 Malarone tablets (atovaquone and proguanil combined pill) for treatment as this medication or an equivalent is not always available. Always sleep under mosquito nets in these areas, preferably one which has been treated with insecticide.
If travellers choose to take anti-malarials, what are the recommended types?
Dr Nick: Doxycycline -- though photosensitivity can be a problem for some people -- or Malarone (atovaquone and proguanil combined pill), which is significantly more expensive.
Doxycycline and Malarone can’t be taken by pregnant women; pregnant women are recommended not to visit malaria infested areas. Malarone is recommended in kids, as doxycycline can’t be taken until eight years of age. Paediatric anti-malarials are not widely available and are best brought with you before you arrive in Cambodia.
Counterfeit anti-malarials are a problem in Cambodia. It's best to bring your own medications, though legitimate medications are available. [Lina's note: The U-Care chain and Pharmacie De La Gare on Monivong Blvd are known for their real, and expensive, medications.]
Do travellers who are only visiting Phnom Penh and Siem Reap need to take anti-malarials?
Dr Nick: Malaria occurs in rural Cambodia though not in the Tonle Sap Lake and river belt which includes Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. If you are visiting Phnom Penh or Siem Reap it is not necessary to take malaria prophylaxis, though it is necessary to take care to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes by applying a DEET-containing mosquito repellent and wear long sleeves if possible.
Dengue is common in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and is also mosquito-borne. There is no treatment for dengue fever.
Is dengue a bigger risk than malaria, then?
Dr Nick: Dengue is a disease of urban environs, whereas malaria is a disease of rural environs. Most people travel to cities so dengue is a much bigger risk. There is no prophylaxis for dengue, only preventing mosquito bites. Although dengue does occur all year round, the wet season is the high risk season.
[Ed's note: For further general tips on malaria across Southeast Asia, please see a 2007 Travelfish.org feature, which remains highly relevant, here.]
Nov 28 2011
Although the only real worry a tourist has when they come to Cambodia is which island to visit, you should also be concerned about the safety of your ATM card.
Money talks... but don't let it tell anyone your secret pin code!
Recently there have been several reports of ATM fraud in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The people who make up names for this sort of thing call it "skimming" -- it's when fraudsters fit an unauthorised device over the card slot on an ATM machine that makes a copy of your card when you insert it. Cameras, sometimes hidden in pamphlet holders, record your pin number as you type it in. It's all very high-tech, in fact almost too much so to believe that it's happening in Cambodia, but the American Embassy released a warning a few days ago confirming it.
Others in town have reported ATM machines eating their cards and being unable to immediately get them back -- whether this is an attempt at fraud or just the to-be-expected leisureliness on the part of the bank is unclear.
The Australian Embassy also warns that tourists coming out from ATMs have been the target of some robberies.
Here are a few tips to prevent ATM card fraud while you are in Cambodia:
Make copies of your ATM card before you leave. This way if you lose it, you'll have the details and contact number for your bank.
Look at the ATM that you are using carefully -- make sure that everything looks right. If anything looks like it may have been added after the fact, for example, if the color of the slot seems to not match the rest of the machine, find another ATM.
Cover the number pad with your hand when you are typing in your pin. I always used to think my friends back home who did this were ninnies, but apparently this really can stop your information from being compromised.
Use ATMs that are well-lit or in central locations. You're less likely to be the victim of a robbery or fraud with an ATM that is out in the open and harder to tamper with.
Be aware of your surroundings and watch your bag.
And, lest my obsession with safety makes you nervous, let me assure you that Cambodia is probably a lot safer than wherever you are coming from, where they have probably already been pulling this ATM scam for years.
Oct 26 2011
Contrary to popular opinion, Phnom Penh is a pretty safe city to spend time in. Most people who move here will even say that it's safer than where they came from. For my part, living in Phnom Penh feels infinitely safer than my last home in east London.
Hold onto your bag when you're in one of these!
That said, we've been in a bit of a lull for the last year. With few reported robberies and attacks, foreigners have begun to let down their guard. But remember, expats call this time of year "robbery season" because many robberies occur in the weeks leading up to and during holidays such as the Water Festival. (Although the races have been cancelled, other events will still be on and there will be a lot of non-city folk hanging out in Phnom Penh.)
In the last month there have been a rash of robberies targeting foreigners. Most of these have taken place in BKK1 or around the nightclub area on St 51. These robberies are not just a late-night affair, they're happening at all times of day. Most of these robberies fit the same pattern: two or three men on a moto grab the bag or phone of a (usually) woman who is in a tuk tuk or walking. These men seem to wait around BKK1 and St 51 looking for potential targets and sometimes brandish a knife or gun.
A few weeks ago, I had a guest staying with me who was the victim of one of these robberies near the Royal Palace. Two men on a moto, both wearing full-face moto helmets to obscure their faces, snatched her bag while she was in a tuk tuk. "I feel like I half-way let my guard down for 30 seconds or a minute, and that was enough, they grabbed my bag," she told me, asking to remain anonymous. "I was chatting with my friend, so I wasn't looking around for suspicious looking guys wearing racing helmets with tinted visors."
Here are some tips:
*Be alert. Hold onto your bag with both arms around it when in a tuk tuk, or across your chest when walking. This makes you a less appealing target.
*Don't pull out your phone while you are walking around or in a tuk tuk. If you do, grip it firmly or with both hands. Someone holding an iPhone with two fingers is a big temptation to some.
*Purses seem to be an easier target, so consider using your pockets. (Are bum bags cool again, yet?)
*Don't carry stuff you can't afford to lose.
*Be very careful about putting up a fight if weapons are drawn. One UN staff member was shot in the leg last year after refusing to give up her purse.
*Consider taking a taxi, especially at night. They use meters and the prices are usually comparable to tuk tuks and are sometimes cheaper.
*Ask your tuk tuk driver to wait for you while you get into your accommodation; robberies have occurred while people are fiddling with keys or waiting to get inside.
*Before you decide to leave everything back at your hotel or hostel, remember that thefts can occur there as well. Leave your valuables locked in your bag and don't leave anything near the windows -- thieves can use sticks with tape on the end to grab mobile phones and so on through barred windows.
Oct 20 2011
A new campaign launched by Friends International today encourages travellers to stop visiting orphanages in Cambodia. The campaign asks tourists to take photos of Friends' posters around Cambodia and post them with a link to the Friends' website on Twitter and Facebook to warn other travellers of the damage such visits can cause. We asked Friends' Executive Director Sebastien Marot a few questions about the background to the campaign.
Now this is a sight to see.
What triggered the campaign's introduction today?
As this campaign is aimed at travellers, we timed our campaign to launch just prior to one of the main tourist seasons in Cambodia.
Is it true to say that even calling the places kids are being institutionalised in Cambodia orphanages is incorrect, given about three-quarters of the children still have living parents?
Technically these are all temporary residential care centres. Orphanages is a term generally used and often (mis)understood by the public. Although many of the children do have a living parent or parents, their situation is much the same as a ‘true’ orphan, in that they have been physically removed from their family and community for social or other reasons.
In Thailand we understand that it's not unusual for poor families to put their children into such institutions for a few years, but the understanding is that the children will return home when they can afford to look after them. Is there a similar situation in Cambodia?
Do you know which research has taken place on this situation in Thailand? We would be grateful if you could share with us. [Ed: No research, but heard this repeatedly anecdotally in the 2000s.]
The alternative care continuum in Cambodia does allow for this, but one difficulty is the current model of residential care in Cambodia is still very much based on the needs that were prevalent in the immediate post Khmer Rouge/conflict years, and does not reflect Cambodia as it is in the 21st century.
What is being done at the government level, if anything, to encourage families to keep their children with them rather than put them into institutions? Outside the government, are many NGOs working on this?
The Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC) issued minimum standards for care in 2008. In 2010 a draft praka regarding alternative care was adopted by the RGC.
At the moment a core group of organisations are involved in implementing this, as the roll out gathers momentum then more will become involved.
We see from your figures that the number of orphanages in Cambodia has grown by 65% since 2005, correlating to the rise in tourism. Do you believe there is direct causation? Are other factors at play as well, such as women relocating to urban centres to work in the garment sector in order to support their families?
This is an interesting trend, however at this time no firm evidence exists to indicate that there is direct correlation. However, given the development progress made in Cambodia this century, what is the justification for this increase? It would suggest that there is indeed a link.
How does having children in these institutions harm their development and emotional well-being?
Please visit our website for more information. Many global studies have also highlighted the impact of institutionalisation upon young people. Please see for instance this from Save the Children.
Once people have spread the word about the perils of visiting orphanages, what can they do if they want to help keep families together while on their travels, or afterwards?
Our suggestion is to support organisations who invest time and energy in strengthening families and communities, allowing children to remain with the family rather than being placed into residential care. Our campaign website gives some information on organisations like these.
Oct 11 2011
There's no denying that Phnom Penh is a great place to visit – and to party – but don't forget to take care of yourself while you are here! I've already covered what to do if you get sick in Cambodia, but today I'll cover everyone's favourite topic – sexual health.
I've enlisted Emily Potter, an Australian registered nurse working with Marie Stopes International in Cambodia, to help answer some of your burning questions.
How prevalent is HIV in Cambodia?
"The most recent estimate is that 0.8% of the general population has HIV. This is considered fairly low compared to other developing countries but you still need to be careful out there! The prevalence of HIV increases to 14% in female entertainment workers and 2.1% for men who have sex with men," says Nurse Potter.
Family planning in Cambodia isn't as hard as you think.
Will I be able to get my preferred brand of birth control in Cambodia?
Usually, yes. Condoms are available at supermarkets and pharmacies, including brand names like Durex and others imported from elsewhere in Asia.
Oral contraceptives are also available, but possibly not under the name you are used to; the same formulas are released under different brand names in different countries. Depending on which pharmacy you go to, you might get brands from Australia, France or beyond. Write down (or check online) the brand name, manufacturer and dose of oestrogen and/or progesterone and any other ingredients in your current pill, or bring an empty packet with you. You can bring this to one of Phnom Penh's reliable pharmacies, the U-Care chain or Pharmacie De La Gare at the corner of Monivong and St 108, to identify the same product as you are already using.
Nurse Potter warns that it can be difficult to find progesterone-only pills in Cambodia, and there is the risk of fake medications. "There's a lot of counterfeit medication in Cambodia and so while a brand might sound familiar, it could be made up of inferior medication. Always buy medication in branded, blister packed supplies, check the company of manufacture and check the expiry date before purchasing. Do not buy any unmarked tablets dispensed in bags."
The depo injection, implant and the copper IUD are available. Contact SOS for information and referral. The patch, ring and diaphragm are not sold in Cambodia.
Are Cambodian-brand condoms like OK and Number 1 as reliable as condoms from home?
OK and Number 1 are condoms released by PSI (an NGO) targeting low income populations. "A condom is a condom, so should be no different in quality than those back home -- but you aren’t going to get the same variety of flavours and features -- so perhaps bring your favourite brand along," Nurse Potter advised.
It's also worth noting that condoms in Cambodia may be more likely to break due to exposure to light and heat. So do make sure to purchase them from air-conditioned shops, check the expiry date and don't use it if the condom feels dry, sticky or brittle.
Incidentally, the lubricant on Number 1 condoms has been touted as a cure for acne.
Do I need to worry about picking up an STI from a sex worker?
Yes! That said, you should also worry about catching an STI from backpackers (and actually, anyone). STIs are on the rise in Cambodia, and risk of contracting an STI/HIV is always a possibility in any casual sex encounter, regardless of the occupation of the person. Remember, some STIs such as HPV and herpes are passed on through skin contact, so can still be transmitted even when a condom is worn.
Lina's note: Anecdotal information from some backpackers I've talked to is that women who have sex for money are sometimes not up front about their line of work -- if you take a Khmer girl home, perhaps check the "terms and conditions" first.
You can access STI screening and treatment at SOS International, or Dr Gavin Scott is known for his non-judgmental (and amusing) screenings.
Are abortions legal in Cambodia?
Abortion was legalised in 1997. Nurse Potter says at up to 12 weeks of pregnancy, abortions are legal on demand in Cambodia, meaning that no specific reason is needed to request an abortion. After 12 weeks the law restricts abortions to certain situations only.
"Safe abortion services are available for nationals and foreigners and there are two methods prescribed," she explains, "medical abortion, up to 9 weeks gestation, using the registered drug Medabon and aspirate abortion, a manual vacuum suction procedure up to 12 weeks gestation." Contact SOS for details.
Dr Scott Travellers Medical Clinic
No. 88, St. 108 (Wat Phnom Quarter), Phnom Penh
T: (o23) 306 802/ (012) 898 981
www.travellersmedicalclinic.com
drscott@camintel.com
International SOS
House 161, Street 51, Phnom Penh
T: (012) 816 911
www.internationalsos.com
Sep 29 2011
Cambodia has been hard hit by flooding this year with many cities and provinces experiencing high water levels and associated fatalities. Phnom Penh is poised to be next, with the swollen Tonle Sap river threatening to flood.
The Tonle Sap seems to want to meet the pavement.
The flooding in Cambodia has already affected over 90,000 families in 14 provinces. Earlier this week tourists had to be evacuated by helicopter from the temples in Siem Reap, where the flooding has been extensive. Around 100 fatalities have already been reported, including a Brit whose death is thought to have been caused by trying to cross a flooded area while drunk (so please be careful out there!)
High waters haven't stopped the fishermen.
The flooding has presented the Cambodian government and foreign NGOs with a quandary, seeing as that this week was a public holiday for Pchum Ben -- the Cambodian festival of the dead -- and not an ideal time for emergency meetings or disaster preparedness. The China Daily reports that provincial governors have been asked not to leave the country on trips overseas. Despite this, response to the flooding has been...well...muted. The millions of dollars of foreign money that has gone for flood prevention seems to have had little effect. Local newspapers have taken the week off for holidays, so don't expect to get much information there. The kids don't care, though, and are happy to take the opportunity to go for a swim wherever they can.
Your flood is my swimming pool.
Sandbags are up around Nagaworld, where the Tonle Sap has risen to meters above its dry-season levels. The Cambodia Daily reports that suburbs of Phnom Penh that have not experienced flooding in over a decade are underwater, and that more flooding in the city is expected.
The infamous Koh Pich bridge being threatened by the river.
Flights in and out of PNH are still flying on-schedule, and most buses are also running on time, albeit very packed due to the holiday.
Despite the government weather warnings from the embassies of many Western countries, and a flood alarm from the Mekong River Advisory, life is going on in Phnom Penh (despite the massive Pchum Ben slowdown).
Might as well go for a dunk.
As always, LTO Cambodia has great info on what's going on and you can see more pictures and general groaning on expat forum Khmer440. Please stay safe and follow our tips for visiting Phnom Penh during the rainy season.
