As the mercury shows no signs of dropping for at least another month, there's no better way to cool down than spending some time poolside in Phnom Penh. If you're lucky, you've checked into one of the Phnom Penh guesthouses that has a pool. If you're slumming it, or didn't realise how essential a pool was until you got here and experienced the sauna heat, worry not: there are plenty of opportunities to don your budgie-smugglers.

You may never want to leave the Blue Lime.

Flashpackers or those who want a taste of the high-life should pop by one of the city's luxury hotels. For about US$8-$10 during the week (pricier at weekends), you can laze around on loungers or get in some serious laps, as these pools tend to be the largest. Himawari Hotel, Hotel Cambodiana and the Intercontinental all accept outside visitors and provide towels, but remember that food and drink come with five-star price tags. For a real splurge, Raffles Hotel Le Royal's pool is surrounded by beautiful gardens and colonial buildings, but at US$20 a time it's definitely not for shallow pockets.

Most expats have their favourite secret hideaway for holidays and hangovers. Among these we'd count the 252 and Blue Lime, which charge US$3-5 for a swim in lush garden settings, although the best beds are reserved for guests. It's easy to while away a day in one of these oases, and you may even forget you're in the crazy capital altogether.

If you're on a budget, the pools at The Eighty8 and Sundance Inn are more for paddling and tanning, but free to use as long as you're spending money in the restaurant. There's a friendly vibe at both and plenty of backpackers to chat with while you're dipping your toes and sipping a beer.

Pool rules: certainly does!

Water Park towards the airport has slides and plenty of splashing, but it gets very busy at weekends. Serious swimmers might like to check out the Olympic Stadium's 50-metre pool and five-metre diving board. Although facilities are a little basic and shade is limited, there's plenty of space to swim and perfect that double pike.

Heading to Temple Town? Discover the best swimming pools in Siem Reap.

Himawari Hotel
313 Sisowath Quay,
Phnom Penh
T: (023) 214 555
www.himawarihotel.com

Hotel Cambodiana
313 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 426 288
www.hotelcambodiana.com.kh

Intercontinental Hotel
296 Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 424 888
www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/phnompenh

Raffles Hotel Le Royal
92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh
T:  (023) 981 888
www.raffles.com/phnom-penh

Blue Lime
42, Street 19z (off Street 19), Phnom Penh
T: (023) 222 260
www.bluelime.asia

The 252
19 Street 252,
 Phnom Penh
T: (023) 998 252
www.the-252.com

The Eighty8
98 Street 88, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 500 2440
www.facebook.com/Eighty8Hotel

Sundance Inn
‪61AB Street 172, Phnom Penh
T: (016) 802 090
www.sundancecambodia.com

Phnom Penh Water Park
No. 50, Confederation de la Russie, Phnom Penh
T:  (023) 881 008

Olympic Stadium
Street 163, Phnom Penh

Tags: pools, swimming

There's no way to pretend that hot season isn't off to a roaring start in Phnom Penh, with temperatures already far higher than I am ready to cope with. Luckily, though, there's no dearth of places to spend an air-con afternoon. My new favourite is City Mall, that Western-style shopping mecca next to Olympic Stadium. Most expats see a trip to City Mall as merely a shopping experience, whereas I see so much more -- an opportunity to take in some of Cambodia's finest commerce possibilities while lowering my core temperature in the process. Here are some highlights.

It ain't hot season in here!

One the first floor you'll find the best Lucky Supermarket in Phnom Penh. With wide aisles, few customers and copious air-con, it's worth doing your weekly shop here if only to linger by the freezer aisle and get a taste of winter. There are also lots of imported cosmetics on the first floor, if that's your thing. Malayisan brand Elianto has two outlets and there's also Korean brand The Face Shop (who carry very nice cooling masks). Also on the first floor are a number of fast food outlets, where you can also get pretty decent gelato.

The first floor of City Mall is the only one with true air-conditioning, but the upper floors are also relatively cool.

The ride of your life for under $0.37.

The second floor offers much for sale and little to desire, with lots of freshie-style clothes and couple's T-shirt sets; the third floor is where things really start to get interesting. There's the "Fun Park", an arcade with Dance Dance Revolution, basketball games, video games and a photo-sticker booth among other things. Perhaps most unsettling are the electronic panda, giraffe-cum-dinosaur and other creatures that one can ride around the mezzanine (3 tokens, $1 gets you 8 tokens). Big enough to fit an adult and a few kids, these are one of the weirdest amusements I've seen in town.

In between the third and fourth floor is a family-style karaoke joint that appears to be entirely devoid of sleaze, noteworthy in the realm of Phnom Penh karaoke parlours.

It's like heaven for munchkins.

On the fourth floor are another photo-sticker booth, snazzy massage chairs ($1 for 10 minutes) and "Happy City", a kids' play zone that actually looks safe, with padded floor mats and various kid-sized activities (4,000 riel per child). Once the kids are safely stowed at Happy City, parents can enjoy a smoothie or some Khmer fast food at the food court next door.

Also on the fourth floor is Legend Cinema, one of the few places in Phnom Penh to see a movie, and what could be loosely termed an art gallery, with one of the most stunning collections of framed holographic pictures in town. All in all, City Mall offers the lethargic tourist or expat a rewarding (and cool) diversion.

Tags: City Mall, Legend Cinema, Lucky City Mall

A recent influx of guests has allowed me to hone the list of places I like to take visitors outside of the standard trips to the Royal Palace and Tuol Sleng. Whether you're only in town for a few days or are in Phnom Penh for longer, here are a few activities you might enjoy.

What could be better than sunset on the river?

Shopping at Russian Market

I used to never understand what people see in the Russian Market, but after a recent trip with my brother, a man who's never admitted to enjoying a place of commerce before but who practically needed to be dragged out of the place, I'm a convert. Russian Market offers people an assault on the senses, between the stifling heat, the shrieks of the women vendors crying "Lady, buy something!" and the smell of the fish being sold in the market area. Somehow, though, it all comes together and deep exploration brings up tourist knickknacks, car batteries, iced coffee, and numerous photo opportunities.

Sunset drinks

I like to make sure my friends see the chi-chi side of Phnom Penh, whether it's dinner at Tepui or sunset drinks at an upmarket joint overlooking the Tonle Sap, like Le Moon K-West or Chow on Sisowath Quay.

Traditional Khmer dance performance

My latest guest was so pleased with the Children of Bassac dance performance we saw that I'll be taking everyone to see them during their dance season. The Children of Bassac are a group of young Khmer dancers who perform traditional Khmer dances as well as folk dances from Cambodian minority groups. They perform every Thursday through April this year and start again at the end of next year.

River cruise on the Tonle Sap

Another early evening activity can be a sunset and dinnertime cruise with Kanika Cruises. The cruises themselves are free, but they ask that you spent a minimum of $7 on food or cocktails, and at dinnertime there's a minimum spend of $10. If you have a large group, you can also go straight to the dock and book your own boat to cruise the river by negotiating directly with the boat drivers. They have coolers on board so you're free to bring food and drink for the journey.

Tags: Children of Bassac, Russian Market, Tepui, Tonle Sap

If you're planning on being in Phnom Penh across Christmas (rather than say escaping to beautiful Koh Rong), there are more than a few ways to spend an enjoyable afternoon. The locals, who are mostly Buddhist, don't celebrate the holiday so restaurants and bars are still open for business.

That doesn't mean there's a lack of holiday spirit, however. Santa Claus costumes are popular for children, and you'll see toddlers standing on the back of motos in full Christmas getup. Ever friendly, Khmers will wish you a Happy Merry Christmas for the entire second half of December.

Happy Merry Christmas!

There are lots of options for traditional Christmas dinners in Phnom Penh -- I'll cover them here later in the week. But if you're interested in having a more local Christmas that's substantially cheaper, consider a beer garden barbecue such as 54 Langeach Sros.

Another option is to get out of the heat and see a movie or consider one of these daytime activities in Phnom Penh. If you've been thinking about having afternoon tea, Raffles has a Khmer children's choir singing Christmas carols (and you can probably go have a listen without having tea, if you prefer).

Something different again would be a river cruise on the Tonle Sap. Kanika Cruises offers sunset and dinnertime cruises each day. The cruises themselves are free of charge, but for a sunset cruise they ask that you spend a minimum of $7 on food or drink and at dinnertime there's a minimum spend of $10. With daily beer specials for $1 and a cocktail special for $2.50, you can get a lot of mileage out of that minimum spend. Their office is located at the rear of the Himawari. You don't need to book in advance, but they did say that it's worth calling in advance to make sure they don't have any private parties reserved.

Kanika Cruises
Himawari Hotel (through the foyer)
313 Sisowath Quay
T: (012) 848 802; (089) 848 959

Tags: 54 Langeach Sros, choirs, Christmas, Christmas carols, cruises, Kanika Cruises

If you're sick of sightseeing, or your liver needs a break, never fear, there are daytime activities in Phnom Penh.

Daytime in Phnom Penh... the world is your oyster.

Go for a run (or a walk)

Every Sunday at 14:15 the Hash House Harriers meet up at the Railway Station and then travel together to a rural spot around Phnom Penh to go running (although many choose to walk). It costs $5 per person, which includes drinks, and is a nice way to see the villages outside of town.

See a movie

Seeing an English-language movie is the best way to take a break from the madness that is Phnom Penh. Three venues in town, Sabay Cineplex, Legend Cinema and The Flicks, all have daytime screenings that are blissfully air-conditioned.

Ultimate Frisbee

Despite what you may have heard about Phnom Penh expats suffering from apathy and alcoholism, they manage to shrug that aside once a week to play Frisbee. Every Sunday they play at the ISPP field near BKK market at 15:30. Contact craigdgerard(at)gmail.com for details.

Possibly the most exciting 15 minutes of your life can be spent on the go-kart track.

Go go-karting

At $12 it's a little expensive, but the go-kart track outside of Phnom Penh is a favourite with emotionally exhausted tourists and bored expats looking for a hit of adrenaline.

Take a yoga or Pilates class

There are daytime yoga and Pilates classes all over town. I've listed most here, and there are new ones being offered at The Flicks, which has early morning yoga on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 06:30 and 08:00 and Pilates on Tuesday and Thursday at 06:30 and 12:30 for $5.

Have afternoon tea

If exercise isn't your idea of daytime fun, why not dress up and have a super posh afternoon tea? For between $10 and $15++ you can enjoy afternoon tea at any of a number of swanky hotels that stand out among the others in town. Once you're finished, hanging around the lobby of any of these hotels can provide an extra hour or two of air-conditioned enjoyment.

Tags: afternoon tea, go-karting, Hash House Harriers, Legend Cinema, pilate, Sabay Cineplex, The Flicks, ultimate frisbee, yoga

Phnom Penh isn't a bad city to shop for women's clothing, if you know where to look. Local markets like Orussey are good for local fashions (think orange floral pyjama sets), head there. But, if you prefer more international style in your wardrobe, many international brands are on sale in Phnom Penh.

Russian Market is a great place to get big brand knock-offs, factory over-runs and items that have mysteriously vanished from Cambodian garment factories. In the coming weeks, I'll devote a post exclusively to where to shop at the Russian Market. Today, I'll focus on a few stand-alone stores on Sihanouk Boulevard where you can find international brands and women's clothes in Western sizes.

Mango

The arrival of Mango is the ultimate validation for a city.

Spanish clothier Mango has stated that its company goal is to be present in every city in the world. It's no surprise, then, that they were one of the first Western clothing shops to venture into Phnom Penh. Shopping at Mango will bring you back to a time when you thought spending $70 on a top was reasonable. They've also got a good stock of accessories, including shoes and bags. They don't carry large sizes in every style, but do have a good range of Western sizes overall.

31C Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 223 066
shop.mango.com

Axara

Axara, for when it gets a little chilly in Phnom Penh.

Axara is a women's clothing line from Paris. This is one of the better options if you're looking to do high-end shopping in Phnom Penh. Amusingly, they don't seem to tailor the items they carry to the climate they serve, so right now you can pick out an autumn wardrobe that's more suited to Paris than steamy Phnom Penh. They have nice clothing -- mostly in smaller sizes -- and the overly-attentive staff are a good antidote if you're feeling lonely or ignored.

43 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 628 2828
axara.com

Wexport

The name is Wexport, thank you.

Wexport (please don't argue that it's meant to be We Export, it's clearly only got one E) has locations all over Phnom Penh, but the one on Sihanouk Boulevard is the most impressive. It should be called We Import though, because most of the items sold inside seem to be produced in Vietnam. They carry popular brands like Banana Republic, Levis and H&M, although usually only the brightest coloured items from these lines.

87 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (012) 351 411

bYSI

Had to take this pic from far away because the security guard almost decked me when I got closer.

bYSI is a popular brand from Singapore that "provides designer-worthy apparels at accessible price points". They've got lots of cute dresses, tops and skirts, and the staff seemed to be used to foreigner shoppers, as they don't try to stand next to you as you browse. Despite using almost exclusively Western models in the ad campaigns and blonde-haired mannequins, the styles are designed for those under 163 cm tall (read, the dresses are very short). They carry sizes up to an Australian 16.

50B Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 213 668
bysi.com

Tags: Axara, bYSI, Mango, Wexport, women's clothes

Until very recently, Phnom Penh was a city without a real cinema showing English-language films. The options were to see dubbed films on the big screen, or watch movies in small shops that have a dozen chairs and usually two or televisions loudly blaring different programmes in Khmer. But with the recent construction of not one but two 3-D Hollywood blockbuster theatres, you can get your movie-going fix in Phnom Penh. And if you're less interested in blockbusters, there are also smaller theatres showing documentaries, independent and foreign films.

Toto, I don't think we're in Cambodia anymore...oh wait, we totally are.

And since the new theatres have opened, at the urging of the theatre owners, the Cambodian government has threatened to crack down on bootleg and pirated movies. Whether or not that will really happen remains to be seen.

Legend Cinema

The first theatre in Phnom Penh to show licensed Hollywood films, Legend Cinema offers a true movie theatre experience with all of the adorable quirks of Cambodia. They have three theatres, two of which offer 3-D films and VIP and family seating. They show blockbuster and action film as well as the odd children's film. Ticket prices range from $4 to $8.

Originally planned as entertainment for expats, Legend was immediately popular with a Khmer audience unfamiliar with what would be considered standard movie-going etiquette elsewhere (and who can blame them, they've never had a real theatre before). Legend Cinema has made great strides in educating the masses not to break their 3-D glasses, talk on the phones or chat during the films. Their Facebook page is a great place to watch this delicate cultural education take place.

City Mall, top floor
Monireth Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (088) 954 9857
legend-cinemas.com

Sabay Cineplex

In their own words: "The Cineplex is a Cambodia’s premiere international 3D theatre offering: surround sound, 3D, tasty snack, fashionable light, comfortable seat, elegant hall. Enjoy the thrilling experience of full excitement with awesome Hollywood and Asian movies."

At the top floor of Phnom Penh's favourite teenage hangout, Sorya Mall, is Sabay Cineplex, the second big-time theatre in town. They have three screens, one of which is 3-D. Ticket prices start at $4 and they have various promotions on different days of the week, so check their Facebook page for more info.

Sorya Shopping Center, 5th Floor
St 63 at St 142, Phnom Penh
T: (017) 666 210
facebook.com/SabayCineplex

The Flicks Community Movie House

Expat favourite The Flicks shows new and old English-language films including popular classics, documentaries and independent films. They have sessions for kids every weekend where they screen a children's film and allow screaming and running around. The small theatre is air-conditioned and has couches and futons to relax on with a glass of wine or a soda. They have a full menu delivered from some nearby restaurants, so you can dine during the movie, with pizza, pasta and salads from Equinox or Thai dishes from Setsara.

Officially the movie is free, but visitors must pay for the air-conditioning and to maintain the equipment. Tickets cost $3.50 for adults and $2 for children and are good for the entire day, so you can see more than one movie.

The Flicks calls itself a community movie house and they're not lying -- it's a friendly place and they've started offering yoga classes (with Pilates in the works) four times a week. Conversational Khmer classes are also planned to start next month.

#39B, Street 95, Phnom Penh
T: (078) 809 429
theflicks-cambodia.com

Meta House

Meta House at the German Cambodian Cultural Centre offers free screenings of independent films and English-language documentaries at 19:00 every night of the week except Monday. They have a full bar and often follow screenings with talks or other opportunities to interact with other humans (if that's your thing). They often show documentaries about Cambodia so it's a great place to visit if you're new in town or want to learn more about the country.

Screening is on the building's rooftop, so be sure to wear mozzie repellent.

#37 Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (010) 312 333
meta-house.com

Tags: cinema, Legend Cinema, Meta House, Sabay Cineplex, The Flicks

If you're looking for something to do of an afternoon in Phnom Penh and have exhausted all of the genocide-related possibilities, you'll be pleased to hear that on the outskirts of the city there's a functioning go-kart track about 8km past the airport.

Get ready to race!

It's not particularly close to town -- be prepared to to spend some time in a tuk tuk -- but Phnom Penh's go-kart track is worth a visit if only because it embodies everyone's favourite part about Cambodia: the free-spirited lawlessness and lack of intervention when it comes to engaging in dangerous behaviour.

Go-karting in paradise.

Beautifully situated among rice paddies and surrounded by palm trees, go-kart racing in Cambodia can be a surreal experience, only heightened by the sound of gunfire coming from the neighbouring shooting range. The track is over 900 metres long, with 11 turns and a 150 metre straight-away (I'll admit that I didn't count the turns and and cribbed that information from my favourite Phnom Penh map by Canby Publications).

Kicking back at the go-kart bar, watching the races.

Workers are blissfully indifferent to the deportment of their customers, and speeds of over 60km can be reached on the track. Drinking and driving is not only permitted but encouraged, and cold beers are served in the bar that overlooks the track, which is a pleasant place to hang if you happen to be terrified of driving (like yours truly). Luckily, they provide helmets and optional blue and yellow jumpsuits for both safety and style.

A sunset that any car-lover can appreciate.

Each race is 10 times around the track (almost 10km) and costs $12. Depending on how fast you drive, each race lasts about 10 to 18 minutes. It may not seem like a long time, but it's exhausting, and most find one or two races more than enough. Try and time your visit so you catch the beautiful sunset over the track and surrounding paddies.

Kambol Go-Karts
Kambol Village, off National Highway 4, past the airport, next to the shooting range.
T: (012) 232 332; (023) 220 501
Open daily, 9:00 to 18:00.

Tags: go-karting, Kambol go-karts

Seven or eight kilometres outside of Koh Kong city, or Krong Koh Kong, in Cambodia is an enormous mangrove forest where visitors can observe the delicate ecosystem that locals (and probably an NGO or two) have turned into a thriving ecotourism project.

Waiting for high tide at the mangrove forest.

Part of the nearly 25,000-hectare Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary, the Boeng Kayak area has a kilometre-long mangrove walk, with elevated cement and wooden platforms snaking through the mangrove forest. Entrance fees (5,000 riel for foreigners, 3,000 for Cambodians) go towards supporting the project, which aims to provide local villagers with alternatives to ecologically damaging choices.

Tip-toe through the mangroves in Koh Kong.

The mangrove forests of Cambodia are environmentally important, providing homes to hundreds of species of wildlife, including, it's said, the famous Irrawaddy dolphins, a pug-nosed species related to the killer whale which are endangered due to the destruction of their natural habitat. (The dolphins are often visited by tourists in their habitat 20 km outside the Cambodian town of Kratie.)

Koh Kong province's mangrove forests have been deteriorating since 1979, when the Khmer Rouge were overthrown. At that time, Koh Kong was sparsely populated, and many of the newly displaced Cambodian population chose to make Koh Kong home. The bridge from Thailand and the sealing of roads to the capital have only served to increase the population further, and more fishing and charcoal production has put enormous pressure on the mangroves and their ecosystem.

The perfect eco-toilet for those who aren't shy.

Supporting the locals in alternative occupations, such as tourism, can help save Cambodia's mangroves. In addition to the mangrove walk -- which, incidentally contains what might be the world's only public mangrove toilet -- visitors can hire boats to birdwatch among the mangroves. There's also a "resort" and restaurant set up, with a dozen or so air-conditioned bungalows for those who want to spend the night watching the fireflies in the mangroves (though since when is air-con environmentally friendly?) The easiest way to visit is to organise the journey from Krong Koh Kong, where you can hire a moto to take you there.

Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary
Off NH 48, Koh Kong Province

Bangkayak Resort
Sangkat Steng Veng, Kemrak Phumen City, Koh Kong
T: (011) 253 333; (017) 600 669
bangkayakresort.com

Tags: ecotourism, Irrawaddy dolphins, Koh Kong, mangroves

Cambodia is funny in that its ninth century is better documented than its 19th, which is why the exhibition of rare Cambodian maps on display at the Centre Culturel Français, running through August 28, is especially interesting.

In a roomful of maps, I'm not the only legend.

The 54 maps are from between 1884 and 1892, during the period of King Norodom I's reign under the French Protectorate. The maps vary widely -- some are the work of French architects, others by Khmer illustrators and cartographers. Amusingly, some of the maps are notated with "map obviously drawn by a Sino-Khmer Mandarin" or "map obviously drawn with the help of a French engineer" (emphasis mine) -- a glimpse of life under the French Protectorate. It is believed that the maps were created by the Royal Government "with the help, or at the request of, the French Protectorate".

19th century map of Kampot province.

It's unclear what the purpose of the maps is -- some seem to be straightforward cartography while others document wildlife, shrubbery ponds and pagodas in freehand drawings that while beautiful, are not to scale.

Exceedingly large buffalo, Choeung Prey province.

The originals of these maps are kept in Paris, at the library of the Ecole Française d'Extreme Orient. High resolutions digital resolution images were given to King Sihamoni on a trip to France last year, and it is these images that are being displayed at the CCF.

Khsach Kandal province, showing house-sized oxen plowing the fields, and a tiger making a play for a farmer's pig.

Additionally, a few of the more interesting maps have been blown up to double their original size to allow for closer examination.

"Map obviously drawn by a Sino-Khmer Mandarin, mentions the telegraph line"

Most of the maps are not to scale. On his website (which alerted us to the exhibition -- thank you!), Casey Nelson has an excellent analysis of the exhibition as well as showing some comparisons of the old maps to modern day maps. Needless to say, they are quite different to each other. One of the Kampot maps has a nearly non-existent Kampong Som; it's just an afterthought to Kampot. Nelson has also included some helpful translations of the Khmer script on the maps.

Phnom Penh. "Map obviously drawn with the help of a French engineer, a profusion of archaeological sites are mentioned."

The maps exhibition is showing at the French Cultural Centre Gallery from Wednesdays through Saturdays 11:00 til 19:00 until August 28. Admission is free.

In the 1890s, there was a half-naked Khmer woman that lived in the Gulf of Thailand.

French Cultural Centre (CCF)
218 Street 184, Phnom Penh

Tags: France, history, maps, Norodom I