Archive for the 'Shopping' Category

Apr 19 2012

Handicrafts from Siem Reap: Are they really?

Published by under Shopping

The word ‘souvenir’ is derived from the French for to remember, and far more than their beauty or intrinsic value that of course is the ultimate purpose of those odd trinkets we buy when we travel. We’re not really buying a thing so much as a memory trigger: for that moment on a rubbish day at home when our eye should fall on the misshapen elephant on the shelf that instantly transports us back to the lazy pleasures of a tropical land.

If this looks just like the one you saw in Vietnam ... there's a reason for that

If this looks just like the one you saw in Vietnam ... there's a reason for that.

But even though aesthetics or worth are not necessarily the most important features of a good souvenir, we do have some requirements of them. A few years ago the German development agency GTZ (as it was then known) conducted a survey among tourists in Siem Reap to find out what it is they most seek in the souvenirs they buy here. In response, an overwhelming majority felt it was important that souvenirs of Cambodia should be made in Cambodia. This makes a lot of sense. After all, most people want to feel like they’re taking a little something of the country they’re visiting back home with them, and it is important to many that their purchases contribute to the local economy too.

Which is a shame really as most of the stuff that’s sold in the markets in Siem Reap has probably spent less time here than the average tourist. The survey found that much of what is sold is produced in, for example, Vietnam and trucked here and all across the region for sale. And you can ask the market trader as much as you like whether it was made here or not, she knows what you want to hear.

And this is a problem not just for tourists; the consequences for the local economy are pretty awful. It’s staggering to imagine that even though two million plus tourists coming to Cambodia every year, the majority of whom go to Siem Reap, the province remains the third poorest in the country. Barely a drop of the rain of money that is pouring down on Siem Reap is touching the local people.

So how can you ensure your souvenir really is from Siem Reap? Well, there’s no hard and fast rule that I can tell you unfortunately. Buying from local artists is one way. For example, at Sao Mao (behind the Old Market) you can buy silver jewellery that is made here, as well as jewellery that is made out of old bullet casings, designed by a French woman, but made by local artisans. Then there is Theam’s House whose beautiful lacquer-work I couldn’t rave about enough if I tried. And shops such as Artisans d’Angkor and Senteurs d’Angkor also have all of their products made here

Within the markets you’ll find products made with lpeak that are produced here; see the picture below. And I believe, though cannot be sure, that the bamboo kitchen products are made here too. After that, it’s a lottery.

Lpeak handicrafts made by women from all over Siem Reap

Lpeak handicrafts made by women from all over Siem Reap.

However, the German agency, which is now called GIZ, has come up with one solution that should help tourists and the local economy. They have developed a seal of authenticity that guarantees that the products on which you find it are made in Siem Reap.

The Seal of Authenticity

The Seal of Authenticity.

The seals are produced using a special method, which means they are highly metallic (not printed) and they also split into four – to prevent the inevitable imitations. The project is still in its early stages, however a good number of local artisans (almost 20) have signed up and more will do so in time. Keep an eye out for the seal and help to make a real difference for local people and really bring home a true piece of Cambodia to see you through the grey days at home.

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Mar 07 2012

Getting to know The Lane, Siem Reap

Published by under Food & drink,Nightlife,Shopping

A couple of years ago the once dark and dingy Lane in Siem Reap looked like not much more than a decent prospect for a drugs score. Today it’s developing into a trendy little enclave, home to many an expat's favourite hangout, with an atmosphere a world apart from tawdry Pub Street only a few metres away. The changes came gradually at first, but they’re coming on so fast in the last few months that it’s giving me head spins, and that's before I even get to Miss Wong. Notwithstanding this flurry of activity, I get the feeling that many visitors never make the extra few steps it takes to go and explore it. So, to give you an idea of what's there, here's a rundown of what you can expect to find along The Lane.

Silk Garden

Silk Garden.

Establishments on The Lane include the Silk Garden, a smooth and intimate garden hangout with reasonably regular live gigs, and four-years-young Miss Wong, a Shanghai opium den-styled cocktail bar and one of the few venues on the ‘You really, really mustn’t miss’ list. Further down The Lane, tiny boho wine/cocktail bar Little Pari now qualifies as positively old by comparison to her neighbours, though sets a standard for the maxim that class never ages.

All the others by comparison are absolute Johnny-come-latelies, with most of them only opening their doors in the last year or so. In that brief, dizzying, period of time everyone’s instantly favourite Italian, Il Forno, has expanded to occupy three buildings. The Giddy Gecko became the Nomad Shisha Bar, with an extensive range of flavoured shisha pipes, soft cushions and an ambient vibe. Blush Boutique next door is where you’ll find a selection of clothes, shoes, cosmetics and smellies. Meanwhile, La Boulangerie on The Lane is not strictly new, but an extension of the immensely popular bakery/café on Street 7 that is besieged every morning with homesick Frenchmen. Next door to Miss Wong, you’ll also find Yokohama, a Japanese restaurant and hang-out that is continuing to grow.

Almost on the med ... Not quite, but nearly almost

Almost on the med ... Not quite, but nearly almost.

I’m not going to talk about the ghastliness at the end of The Lane. Except to say that the market there is ugly, unimaginative and unnecessary and while I wouldn’t consider myself an overwrought aesthete by any stretch, it still makes me want to delicately put pained palm to pained brow and sigh “l’horreur, oh l’horreur!” I don't though, just in case you're wondering. There are plenty of other, better markets in Siem Reap, especially the Angkor Night Market, the oldest and still the best of the lot.

Hooked on hookah

Hooked on hookah.

One of the latest additions to The Lane is Three Seasons, which opened a little over three months ago. It’s sort of a three-for-the-price-of-one clothes shop that stitches together the talents of young American designer Rachel Faller under her label KeoK’jay; the established Phnom Penh fashion label, Elsewhere; and, with Zoco, the eye of Spanish entrepreneur Nuria Lopez Conesa who brings in designs from around the region. The fashion sensibilities of each are different, but complementary. Faller’s look tends towards the young and urban, Elsewhere is a more mature label with classic design ethics, and Zoco clearly has an eye for colour and offbeat styles. They are all however strong, modern and feminine, and very well priced. There is also a small selection of men's clothing too.

Hot fashions

Hot fashions.

I’m a little bit of a control freak so, even under Miss Wong’s charm, it’s hard for me to imagine ever getting drunk enough to consider karaoke a good idea. I find the enduring appeal of this peculiar form of entertainment a greater mystery than my pre-pubescent penchant for Shakin’ Stevens, and crueller on my senses than a Roman’s long weekend. But, human beings being what they are, i.e. largely deranged, karaoke’s reach is now global and my only hope is a set of earplugs and/or wire-cutters.

On the upside in Siem Reap, most karaoke bars are local so the chances of finding one’s evening besmirched by a half-naked Australian screeching “I will survive hey eyyyyyy” are mercifully limited. You can imagine my dismay then when I spotted the sign for a new bar called Marcello, which brazenly sports the words “European Karaoke”. Here in the air-conditioned and smoke-free bar, 5,000 songs we all know and love have been listed for massacre in English, French, Italian and Spanish. I’ll try to be charitable and not consider you to be in need of profound psychological help if you go, but don’t even think about asking for back-up. (And if you are a karaoke fan, Travelfish.org does cover it in Bangkok, Hanoi and Saigon.)

Silk Garden
T: 012 989 163

Miss Wong
T: 092 428 332

Il Forno
T: 078 208 174

La Boulangerie
T: 012 308 208

Yokohama
T: 092 637 053

Marcello
T: 017 674 762

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Jan 02 2012

Angkor Handicraft Fair: January 11 to 15

Published by under Culture,Shopping

A one-stop shop for some of Cambodia’s most exciting contemporary and traditional handicrafts producers, the fourth Angkor Handicraft Fair will take place from January 11 to 15 in Siem Reap. In the river garden lawns in front of the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, the organisers promise an impressive showcase of Cambodian crafts and a packed schedule of music, comedy, circus performances, a fashion show and much more. For the first time too, exhibitors from many other countries in Asia will also take part.

Roll up, roll up!

Roll up, roll up!

With stalls from almost 70 different exhibitors from all over Cambodia, the aim of the Fair is to showcase Cambodia’s skills and knowledge in handicraft production. Between 10:00 and 21:00 each day, visitors will be able to trawl through thousands of beautiful, local and hand-made creations, including hand-made silk and cotton clothing and accessories, home accessories, jewellery, beauty products, art, textiles, recycled materials, ceramics, wood carvings, ironworks, lacquering, knives, and products made from natural fibres such as rattan, wicker, water hyacinth and sea grass.

Welcome to the cabaret...

Welcome to the cabaret...

Recognising an important issue concerning souvenirs and handicrafts sold in Cambodia, the organisers have set up a special committee to vet and ensure that all of the products sold at the Fair are actually Cambodian. According to a study conducted by the German development agency, GTZ, a significant proportion of the “Cambodian” products sold at the markets in Siem Reap are not from this country. Tourists may enquire of vendors about the origin of products they’d like to buy, but most of the vendors neither know nor care where they’re from and will assure all comers that they are of course from here.

Cambodian artisans will share the stage with their colleagues from Indonesia, the Philippines, India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Malaysia, in a special series of art and handicraft demonstrations which visitors can enjoy every day in addition to the programme of events detailed below.

Lacquering

Lacquering.

Special events in the evenings, from 18:00 to 21:00:

Wednesday 11: Inauguration ceremony; Peak Mi (comedian); Apsara show and traditional.music
Thursday 12: Theatre; acrobatics and juggling from Phare Ponleu Selpak; international DJ; video performances.
Friday 13: Acrobatics; live jazz acoustic band; fire show; international DJ.
Saturday 14:
Live painting; magician; acrobatics; videos performances; international DJ.
Sunday 15:
Fashion show; live music with Cambojam; international DJ; fire show.

From Cambodia's first, and hugely successful, fashion show in Phnom Penh, November

From Cambodia's first, and hugely successful, fashion show in Phnom Penh, November.

Plus: Food and drink will be catered by Raffles, and there’ll be a special wine bar and VIP bar.

 

 

 

 

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Dec 27 2011

What's on in Siem Reap during January?

Published by under Culture,Food & drink,Shopping

It’s not easy to get hold of information about ongoing events in Siem Reap. If you’re lucky your hotel will hold a copy of AsiaLIFE magazine, an excellent guide to what’s hot in Cambodia other than the weather, and they also carry events guides for Phnom Penh and Siem Reap each month. Taking their cue, we’ve compiled a highlights list of events that you can look forward in 2012’s first month as a taster for the kinds of things you can enjoy here right throughout the year.

Endangered at Hotel de la Paix

Endangered at Hotel de la Paix.

Exhibitions
All month:
* Permanent exhibition Elegy: Reflections of Angkor by John McDermott is at the McDermott Galleries, FCC and The Passage. John’s magical images have developed iconic status and The Passage gallery is also home to a number of rolling exhibitions that are definitely worth a look.
* Endangered at the Hotel de la Paix Arts Lounge and Thev Gallery.
* Khmer Empire/Mothers of Love at the Friends Gallery at Angkor Hospital for Children. A wonderful exhibition of paintings and sculptures by renowned Cambodian artist Tor Vutha.

Monday 30 January, from 19:00: At 1961 the opening of two exhibitions, Velvet by Kampot-based artist Vincent Broustet, and Somewhere in Sudan by Phnom Penh-based Canadian photographer Heather Stillwell.

Music
* Tuesdays at Chilli Si Dang: Live music and open mic night.
* Wednesdays at X Bar: Jam session, 18:00–23:00.
* Thursdays at the Heritage Suites Hotel sees incredibly talented live sax player Stevie Cadd during happy hour at the cocktail bar, 18:30–20:30.

Smooth tunes, gorgeous location, great wines and cocktails. It's a no brainer really.

Smooth tunes, gorgeous location, great wines and cocktails. It's a no-brainer really.

* Fridays at the Warehouse: Open mic night with Richard Besley, rock, folk and blues, from 21:00.
* Fridays and Saturdays at The Station: A dance, music and comedy special with the Lady Boy Revue, from 21:00.
* Saturdays at Linga Bar: The fabulous Diamond Paradise Drag Show, from 22:30.
* Saturday 28 at the Warehouse: Karaoke Mayhem from 22:00, if you dare…

Food
* Cooks in Tuk Tuks street food tours run daily from the RiverGarden Hotel at 16:00.
* Monday to Friday at Molly Malone’s: Early bird specials on the restaurant and steakhouse menus from 17:00 to 18:30
* Wednesdays at Soria Moria: $1 training night. An excellent selection of special small dishes and drinks all available for $1, 19:00–23:00.
* Fridays at the Ivy 2: $1 tapas night, including $1 cocktails and a wide selection of vegetarian dishes, from 18:00.

Get your Cambodian street food smarts

Get your Cambodian street food smarts.

Film
* Tuesdays and Sundays screenings at the Siem Reap Film Society. Check out their facebook page for an update on what’s showing at this really special little art-house cinema.
* Mondays at Soria Moria are movies on the rooftop bar with free popcorn. From 20:00.

Sports and leisure
* For information on the Hash House Run, check out the website of their local organiser.
* For information on yoga in Siem Reap, check out our comprehensive posting here.
* For information on Siem Reap’s famous pub quizzes, check out our guide here.
* Tuesdays at Siem Reap Hostel see salsa classes held from 18:00 to 19:00.
* Saturdays at the RiverGarden see Zumba classes on from 17:00.

Shopping
* Wednesday 11 January to Sunday 15 January: Angkor Handicraft Fair at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Gardens. Stalls from more than 60 associations in Cambodia, plus many more from all over Asia and Southeast Asia.

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Aug 02 2011

Best supermarkets in Siem Reap

So many tourist markets, boutiques, jewellers and craft shops in Siem Reap can make shopping here a real pleasure. On the other hand, if you have a case of the midnight munchies, or just need batteries, its charms can seem a little over-worked. The practical things in life can rarely be found in the bottom of a recycled, eco-friendly, socially conscious, vegetarian handbag.

There are plenty of supermarkets in town though, and you’ll be stunned at what you can buy in them. Cambodia may be classified as a Least Developed Country (LDC) , but it’s an LDC that signed up the World Trade Organisation when it really had no business doing so. Good for you if you want to buy Marmite, Budweiser or Tim-Tams. Terrible for Cambodia’s balance of trade and virtually non-existent local industry.

But that’s a separate issue -- back to the batteries.  The main supermarkets are the two big ones quite near each other on the northern end of Sivatha Boulevard, Lucky Market in the Lucky Mall and Angkor Market. Then there is the smaller 24 Hour Market also on Sivatha, at the very end of Pub Street, and the Apsara Market on Wat Bo Road. The Angkor Trade Centre on the riverfront near Old Market also has a small supermarket inside. There are a couple of other, smaller, ones, but these five should serve most people’s purposes.

Not for sale!

On Sivatha Boulevard, Angkor Market is definitely the best, despite being only half as big as Lucky. The only problem is that dog food is more expensive here, though something tells me that might not be a problem for the average reader of this post. Angkor Market is locally owned, and the staff on the till are super-friendly and helpful if you’re stuck for anything. The staff on the shop floor tend not to speak English so go straight to the till if you have any questions. Of greatest concern to expatriates, who are quite civilised despite appearances, Angkor Market has the largest wine selection. But, whether you’re looking for batteries, food, drinks, magazines and newspapers, stationery, toiletries and cosmetics, or even more practical stuff like, for example Tupperware, it’s all here too. As for all supermarkets, you can’t get minor pharmaceuticals, like pain-killers or bandages, which are only in pharmacies. There is an ANZ ATM outside.

The Lucky supermarket in Lucky Mall is much bigger than Angkor though doesn’t really seem to have that much more. It's kind of like a reverse tardis. On the other hand, the supermarket shares space in the mall with other shops that may make going here a good idea. On the ground floor is a uCare pharmacy, a couple of mobile phone network operators, numerous ATMs, Bambou Indochine clothing shop, and a very pretty souvenir shop called Iris. Upstairs there is a department store, and you can buy all sorts of electronics on the top floor.

Going back into town, you’ll find the 24 hour supermarket at the very end of Pub Street. This is a definite stop off for the midnight munchies, and we can recommend the Walkers Shortbiscuits thoroughly. They mostly sell drinks and snacks, with assorted toiletries, batteries, some patés and pickles and rather random things like tahini. Condoms are available here too.

On Wat Bo Road, near the European Guesthouse, is the New Apsara Market, which has more dry or tinned consumables like pasta and sauces, snacks, drinks and stationery. They also have a small range of books and guidebooks. Neither Apsara nor the 24 hour market sell fresh fruit or vegetables. A note to the wise: if you do buy fresh fruit or veg at the markets, clean them thoroughly, then clean them again. Aside from the frightening chemicals the farmers use, the market sellers spend all day coating them with fly spray.

The Angkor Trade Centre has a supermarket inside, as well as a pizza restaurant and ice-cream parlour. The supermarket is small to mid-sized but the stock is poorly selected, and always manages to not have exactly the very thing you're looking for. It's freaky. Better hop on a tuk tuk and go to Angkor Market.

And if you're heading to Phnom Penh, we've already covered the best supermarkets there.

Angkor Market
Sivatha Boulevard
T: (063) 76 77 99

Lucky Supermarket
Sivatha Boulevard

24 Hour Market
Sivatha Boulevard

New Apsara Market
Wat Bo Road, near the European Guesthouse
T: (012) 941 474

Angkor Trade Centre
Pokombor Avenue
T: (063) 766 766

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Jul 12 2011

Siem Reap street guide: Alley West

Published by under Culture,Shopping

The busy streets of Siem Reap are in a constant state of flux as bars, shops and restaurants open, close, move or refurbish at an astonishing rate.  Eventually, some establishments settle down and start to become part of the scenery.  A sort of settling has now taken place on Alley West, Siem Reap’s freshest, funnest, chicest and most eccentric little street.

Definitely no piranhas here.

It wasn’t that long ago that Alley West was just a shabby short-cut, offering no more than a grungy looking guesthouse, and a DVD outlet.  The guesthouse was cleaned up, but is sadly now boarded up after the owner died suddenly last year, but the DVD shop is still there and is still the friendliest shop in town.  The rest of this little street has been totally transformed however, with pretty red paving, hanging lights, plants and colourful displays of clothing, accessories, and furniture from the different shops that line it.

The principal activity here is shopping, though there are some worthy drinking and dining spots that should be checked out too.  But even on such a small lane, fans of sexy, colourful clothes and accessories are extremely well catered to.

The first shop to set up here was Wanderlust, in one of the oldest colonial buildings in the heart of Siem Reap. Wanderlust is a jewel of a shop with feminine, practical but so so pretty designs and incredible attention to detail, fun jewellery and shoes. The original designer, the fabulously fashionable New Yorker Elizabeth Kiester, left an indelible print on this boutique which has been taken up and built on by the young and talented Italian designer Stella Romoli.

Spicy Green Mango next door is a well established brand in Phnom Penh, and their silk shoes are virtually a trade mark of NGO workers there.  Their designs are definitely more esoteric, with beautifully contrasting fabrics and patterns on incredibly soft materials. From another established brand in Phnom Penh, Smateria offers a range of ethical, funky bags and accessories made from old mosquito nets, moto seats and other recycled materials.

Further down the lane, Bambou Indochine, with its wide selection of soft, comfortable and pretty resort wear and jewellery, is not to be missed if your next stop is the beach and, across the road from there, Circle is a small social enterprise featuring the designs of two young American women. The latest shop to open on the street is Wild Poppy, a sister to the larger shop opposite the Hotel de la Paix.  Feminine but structured pieces define the look they strive to create and it’s definitely worth a drop in.

Poetry really needs an article all to itself.  This is the madcap creation of an artist, Loven Ramos, and a designer, Don Prosatio, both from the Philippines, and is an homage to creativity. Clothes, jewellery, accessories art, and crazy mad random stuff. Their aspirational handbags are a real hit.

If dressing up your home is more your thing, then Tendance Khmere is one of the newest kids on the block, and their exquisite bed throws, bags and home furnishings are frankly to die for. Art Deli can help you here too.  Loven Ramos, of Poetry, is behind this one too. Art Deli is an avant-garde art gallery, reading room, performance art space, music venue, bar, and all around really interesting place.  The owners are behind many of the events that contribute to making Alley West so different from everywhere else in town, or anywhere at all really, including the first Friday of the month shopping market, and an ongoing project to create the longest art work in Siem Reap.

As we all know, shopping is thirst and hungry work, so it's just as well that Alley West also boasts one of the best value Khmer restaurants in town at Khmer Kitchen, while Trattoria Italia serves up delicious wood-fired pizzas and mesmerising pastas. The Peace Café is a bright and breezy outdoor café that serves healthy vegetarian food, smoothies, and drinks. There’s an indoor upstairs seating area too, if you don’t feel like taking advantage of this excellent people-watching spot. At the other end of the street, Picasso is a smart little Spanish wine bar, serving very reasonably priced wines, sangria, beers and genuine tapas.

And just in case the guys are thinking there's nothing here for them (except for buying presents for your mum!) well, the Sports Bar has four screens showing all the major live sporting events from all over the world. Such a small street, so much to offer.

Wanderlust
Alley West

T: (012) 529 924
www.wanderlustcambodia.com

Spicy Green Mango
T: (092) 569 643
www.spicygreenmango.com

Smateria
T: (063) 964 343
www.smateria.com

Poetry
www.youaremypoetry.com

Tendance Khmere
www.tendance-khmere.fr/

Art Deli
www.artdeli.org/

Khmer Kitchen
T: (063) 964 154
www.khmerkitchens.com

Trattoria Italia
www.samot-restaurant.com

 

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May 28 2011

Jewellery in Siem Reap

Published by under Culture,Shopping

As the name suggests, Garden of Desire is a place in which to set your heart free. It is also a window into the mind of Ly Piseth, the designer who came back to Cambodia in 2007 in order to restore his own soul. Along the way, he has tapped into a creative seam that expresses not just his own spirit but also the very essences of the natural world that surrounds him.

Using semi-precious stones from Cambodia, Piseth questions the Cambodian elite's inability to see the real beauty of their country

Using semi-precious stones from Cambodia, Piseth questions the Cambodian elite's inability to see the real beauty of their country.

Piseth is a jewellery designer, who originally trained as an architect before moving on to design, including for the Philippe Starck Design Studio. He is the creative force behind Garden of Desire, a very special little shop that sits cool and quiet amid the hustle and bustle of The Passage in Siem Reap.

When Piseth first arrived in Cambodia, he worked as a designer for Artisans d’Angkor before deciding to set up his own studio and shop in 2008 so that he could fully explore his creative drives.

Earrings made of Cambodian semi-precious stones and gold-leaf

Earrings made of Cambodian semi-precious stones and gold-leaf.

The result is a range of jewellery that charts Piseth’s own painful efforts to reconcile his memories of the Khmer Rouge period, his philosophical musings on people’s relationship with nature (if you’ve ever wondered whether a piece of jewellery can constitute an essay, wonder no more), reflections on modern Cambodian society, and Piseth’s appreciation for the world around him.

There is not a signature style as such, and his pieces include the delicate and elegant, the reasonably chunky and solid, and those based on semi-precious stones. However, they all share a deep balance and integrity that makes each piece something you just want to keep looking at. They are all beautiful by any standard, even if Piseth himself eschews the idea of searching for attractiveness for its own sake. “It is easy to make something pretty if you just follow trends. Creating something beautiful involves a deeper examination, and is not necessarily a reflection of what is ‘pretty’," he said.

One of the highly unique pieces that can be found in Garden of Desire

One of the highly unique pieces that can be found in Garden of Desire.

Looking at the range of jewellery that is a series of stars that look like they’ve been ripped apart and sewn carefully but imperfectly back together again gives an insight into the depth and artistry of Piseth’s work. As a Cambodian child of a Christian family, Piseth was always taught to pray and that his prayers would be answered. Lying under the stars in the years between 1975 and 1979, Piseth prayed and prayed as hard as he could that his family would survive the horror of the Khmer Rouge regime. None of them did.

Sewing his world back together again

Sewing his world back together again.

“I couldn’t look at the stars for years after that," he said. At 12 years of age, he was sent to France and brought up there. Coming back to Cambodia marked Piseth’s first step towards being able to find peace. He has sewn back the stars, the tears in his soul, carefully and slowly, so that he can look at them, and at life, again.

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