Mar 17 2011
Chiang Mai’s famed khao soi: Where is the best bowl?
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One of Chiang Mai’s most famous contributions to Thai cuisine is khao soi, (or soy), noodle soup. The classic version combines two noodle varieties: flat wheat noodles, (tagliatelli-ish in form) and deep-fried crispy noodles, in a spicy coconut chicken curry. The soup is served with a slice of lime, roast chilli paste and pickled cabbage.
Khao soi
Sometimes mistakenly thought to be of Burmese origin, khao soi is actually south Chinese, and was brought into northern Thailand and Burma by Yunnanese Muslim immigrants. So Mae Salong in Chiang Rai, for instance, with its Yunnanese/Kuomintang population, is a great spot to find the original version.
Now there are about a million restaurants, markets, food halls and guesthouses in Chiang Mai city offering khao soi, and we’ve tried many of them during our years of extensive khao soi research. But for now, we’re just going to just recommend our favourite spot: the only place so far to have attained a 9/10 rating on the Travelfish.org khao soi-ometer. (Interestingly, as a point of comparison, the 250 baht version at the Four Seasons was awarded a mere 7.5.)
It’s a little tricky to find, but if you want to try our favourite version of our favourite noodle soup then here goes…
The name is Khao Soi Khun Yai’s- – Grandmother’s Khao Soi would be an English translation — but unfortunately there’s no sign in English, and from the outside it just looks like a private house. Stick your head through the garden gate though and you’ll see a small café and sitting area immediately to your left. The entrance is on the inner side of the north moat between the temples of Wat Monthian and Wat Kuan Kama. (The photo below shows the entrance.)
Doesn't look much from the outside but........
Unlike many khao sois, which can have a pale, watery coconut stock, this version has a rich, thick, intensely flavoured and dark coloured soup with bite sized off-the-bone chicken pieces and home-pickled cauliflower and cabbage pieces.
Grannie’s Khao Soi is open 10:00 until 14:00 Monday to Saturday. Since it can get very popular, the ideal time to pop in would be 11:00 to 12:00 for brunch or early lunch. It’s 25 baht a bowl.
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Tags: khao soi, Mae Salong, noodles, Thai food, Yunnan
[...] with Huay Tung Tao being our recommended Sunday afternoon spot, and Grandma's khao soi' our default lunchtime eatery, this French restaurant logs in as a firm family fave for birthday [...]
Checked this out a couple of days back – not as difficult to find as I had expected, and delicious! Lovely atmosphere full of locals at lunch, very informal place for a cheap but outstanding bowl of khao soi. Perhaps not the best place to lose my khao soi virginity, I fear everywhere else is going to be a let-down now!!
Cheers Chris – there’s an earlier Khao Soi post which is well worth checking out though!
A third one? Have been to Khun Yai and Nimman, didn’t realise you had recommended another? Do pass on link if so – back in BKK now but can add it to the list for next time in Chiang Mai!
The best kao soi has to be at Wat Suan Dok, certainly the one I go for when I am in Chiang Mai.
Hi I an – whereabouts at Wat Suan Dok exactly – I’d like to check that one out! Cheers
Would love to know too!
[...] I will attempt to locate this apparently hard-to-find-place on a travel fish blog and see how it rates on my personal Khao Soi meter (However I’ll have to try it tomorrow or [...]
[...] those who are interested in reading the account I originally found about this place, click here. Share this:TwitterFacebookLike this:LikeBe the first to like this post. foodphotos ← [...]
Hi we will take the Khao Soy Challenge any day =)
Seriously “Aroy” (or as tey say up north “Lum Tay Tay Jao!”)
I have tried the above mentioned Khao Soi yesterday. Was little excited after reading the article. After tasting it i have to say it is not bad but also nothing exceptional. Definitely not rich. If i want rich i go on the croner on my street. And i am talking RICH and really thick sauce. That blown me away first time i tried it. It is bit more oily then other but very strong in flavour. Another one which is better amd even cheaper (25 baht) is on Bumrung buri south part of old town. Open only in evening. Not mentioned Khao sou no.1 on other side of river.
it’s like comparing apples and oranges when comparing khao soi, it always comes down to personal preference. Some are more suited to beef where a rich sauce is a must and others suited to chicken. My favorite khao soi gai is at khao soi nong bua, Chaiprakarn but there are 3 khao soi places in Fang that make khao soi neua that is so tender you don’t even need teeth.
I ate the khao soi here after reading the post and it was damn delicious. She was sold out of chicken by 12:30 PM, so I tried the beef version.
the best khao soi i eaten is at fang chiang mai. anyone tried before?