Oct 03 2011

Exploring Thai sweets at Bangkok’s Old Siam

Published by at 6:01 pm under Food


Thai food gets a lot of props overseas — it’s almost ubiquitous now in North America, Europe and Australasia, but what doesn’t get much play are Thai desserts.

Pumpkin custard and mango sticky rice: sugar high for the win!

Thai desserts are not always immediately recognisable as dessert — strangely wobbling gelled cubes, green “noodles” floating in a bowl of white liquid, bright orange strips, threads, balls, and kneaded shapes of every kind are joined by tiny crisp pancakes folded like tacos around white fluff, shaved ice topped with corn, strips of fresh young coconut, flavoured syrups in technicolor hues, and coconut milk.

There’s a staggering amount of variation that can be achieved using the same base ingredients: coconut milk, palm sugar, eggs and rice. Thai desserts are sweet, sweet, sweet, and texture is often a bigger variable than actual flavour (most stuff tastes like sweetened coconut or caramelised sugar, or caramelised sweetened coconut). While they might not have set the world on fire, they are fascinating, tasty and cheap.

Vendor pushing her sweet, sweet, sticky wares at Old Siam.

A great place to do a little sampling is the Old Siam, a shopping mall located close to Chinatown and Pahurat that focuses on all things Thai (also a good place to pick up some souvenirs or old school Thai music — bossa nova and big band sung in Thai? YES, PLEASE.)

On the first floor is a clutch of stalls that specialise in sweet treats from central Thailand. Don’t know what it is? Who cares. It’s going to be sweet, and if you don’t like it, just move on and try another! Watch out for sticky rice with mango, khao nieow ma muang, the standard bearer of Thai desserts overseas, but don’t miss her cousins, including durian sticky rice and banana sticky rice (khao nieow thurian and khao nieow gluay, respectively). Khanom krok are like little pancakes baked in tiny round bottomed griddles, crispy in the outside but soft and creamy on the inside. Khanom takoh looks a bit like jello squares, but there are two layers, one clear and pandan flavored, and the other a coconut milk jelly. You’ll be feeling the enamel slide off your teeth before you know it.

So many sugars, so little insulin.

A great reference guide to Thai sweets can be found at www.eatingthaifood.com — print it off and use it as a road map (or just take pictures of what you end up finding and look up the names later!) Austin Bush, another excellent food blogger and photographer located in Bangkok, has a great guide to pronunciation in Thai to help you correctly ask for the specific sweet that will put you into a sugar coma.

The Old Siam
The Old Siam Plaza, Burapha Road, Phanakorn
Open 10:00-22:00 daily

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One Response to “Exploring Thai sweets at Bangkok’s Old Siam” ...

  1. [...] ground level of Old Siam Plaza has a courtyard full of stalls serving traditional Thai desserts. Erin tried Khanon Luk Chub, which [...]

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