Mar 08 2012
Just when we thought Brock Kuhlman had farewelled us with this swansong on Bangkok’s food for life’s tribulations, we uncover a post of his buried in the depths of the drafts department… So enjoy — but first check out part 1 of this street eating guide here.
Walk down the sidewalk 10 metres or so and there will be two-wheeled carts that do fried noodles with small tables set up to the right along a fence. The pad see ew is well done, with charred noodles and just the right amount of dark soy to sweeten the noodles, and they do a good version of pad thai — although there could be more tamarind, it is mouthwateringly satisfying. Beers can be purchased from the 7-eleven a few metres down and brought back to your tables — just ask the cashier to open the bottles (charades is your path to success here).
What would a meal be without a cleansing end? Walk 200 metres down Rangnam, past the King Power Duty Free Complex on your left, and there are fruit and sweets vendors clustered around the 7-eleven on the right side of the road. Try odoriferous and complex durian (this spikey fruit smells like angry trash but tastes like delicious custard), or any of the grilled sticky rice sweets (they’ll be wrapped in banana leaf wrappers and roasted over coals).
Still not done? Oh friend, neither is Rangnam. Across from the 7-eleven is a cluster of street stalls serving khao muu daeng (braised red pork served over rice), fried rice and another sidewalk bar popular with hipster college students. This sidewalk bar also has good gap glaem, or food specifically served when drinking; try their laap muu tawt which is like a deep-fried croquette, except in place of boring potato they put spicy Isaan-style pork and sticky rice. Win.
Rinse and repeat. And repeat. And repeat. Oh god, the food; it’s just. so. glorious.
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