So what’s new on Ko Lipe’s shores?

The first difference popped up before we had even reached the island — the big, modern boat pier that was being constructed off the coast of Pakbara on the mainland during our last visit is now fully operational, and travellers are required to pay a 20 baht fee to use it. Not only is the new Pakbara pier more comfortable and spacious than the old one, it’s also more organised. ‘Official’ personnel now greet travellers at the entrance, collect the 20 baht, and show them exactly where to go.

Though still dwarfed by the ferries that run to Ko Tao, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui, the speedboat that shuttled us to Lipe was a lot bigger than any we had previously seen. It even had air-con and fluffy seats. We did however see the same old smaller, open-air speedboats in action, so which boat travellers end up on appears to be luck 0f the draw. They all still cost 650 baht, although it couldn’t hurt to request the air-con boat when purchasing tickets if you’re really keen on it.

While we found the transport situation far more orderly in Pakbara than it used to be, the opposite is now true at Ko Lipe. In years past, speedboats typically dropped passengers off directly on the sand, but they’re now required to disembark at a floating dock off Pattaya beach. When we arrived, the scene on the dock was very chaotic. Crowds of confused travellers had no idea what to do. The only ‘officials’ were shouting at boat crews in Thai, and even the longtail drivers with their boats stacked along the dock seemed to be making the process up as they went.

Pack your patience.

All visitors now pay a 20 baht fee that apparently goes to “garbage and cleaning schemes” before leaving the floating dock. Longtail boats run no more than 15 people at a time to the island and charge a non-negotiable 50 baht per person, so getting to Lipe is now 90 baht more expensive than it used to be. There was confusion as to whether we had to pay for the boat, and which was the right boat to take, with no assistance provided at all.

After waiting in an anxious crowd for some time, we hopped on the first boat we could, paid the boatman directly and ended up on Pattaya beach (some boats apparently go to Sunrise beach). Although many travellers won’t be happy about the extra fees, it makes sense for travellers to pay for the longtail taxis as this keeps the larger boats away from the beach and provides income for the local Chao-lae boatmen. We just wish they’d streamline the process.

Once we arrived and had a look around, it appeared that all of those 20 baht environmental fees are being put to good use. Though we noticed significant trash buildup on a handful of secluded beaches along the undeveloped western coasts, most of the areas frequented by travellers were very tidy. It’s also promising that the rugged western half of the island has remained almost totally untouched by development.

No new development along the walk to Sunset beach.

A large garbage barge was parked near the middle of Pattaya beach, where it remained for the first two days of our stay. While this could be an unwelcome surprise for anyone who pre-books at nearby Greenview Resort, the fact that garbage is being hauled away on a large scale is good news for the island at large.

We were also happy to see how Lipe’s central waste management centre appears to be functioning smoothly, with waste and recyclables adequately sorted before being transferred to the barge. On the other hand, we later noticed a large pile of burning trash near Mountain Resort; a Lipe-dwelling expat said that some of the island’s biggest resorts still aren’t playing by the rules.

The rest of Thailand could learn something from Lipe’s waste management.

While planning the trip, we had read a handful of reviews with complaints that Lipe had turned into “another Ko Phi Phi” — an overdeveloped and unsustainable tourist island overrun by obnoxious party animals. Thankfully though, we found Lipe basically the same as we’d left it.

Although the enormous Sita Resort has now finished developing straight from one side of the island to the other, we found that no substantial buildings have been erected since our last visit. Apart from upscale Mali Resort on Pattaya beach, the only newcomers on the Lipe accommodation scene are tiny bungalow joints like Pitiusas and Rivendell, both of which join a handful of small Spanish-run resorts on the island.

The bungalows at Rivendell — not exactly skyscrapers.

Lipe’s food scene also hasn’t changed much, the biggest difference being a major influx of pizza. While only four specifically Italian/pizza restaurants could be found during our last visit, the island now boasts upwards of a dozen. Pizza Italia is probably still the best, though one Walking Street hawker provides stiff competition in the form of big New York-style slices. When it comes to pasta, La Luna is — after a year living in Bangkok — still the best we’ve tried anywhere in the kingdom.

Out of all the food choices we spotlighted during our last visit, only Marooned Thai Restaurant has closed. Along with the pizza, French-run Crepes and More and a Greek-run chicken kebab stand are welcome additions to Walking Street.

Apart from the pizza, crepes and kebabs, it’s “same old” on Walking Street.

Lipe also still features the same relaxed yet lively atmosphere that has defined its nightlife scene for the last several years. Most Pattaya beach haunts play low-key reggae or live guitar music to set the mood for candlelit tables, seafood barbecues and at least one roving fire dancer. Though there’s always an exception on any island, you still won’t normally find people pounding buckets to thumping techno into the wee hours on Lipe. Over on Sunrise beach, the only sounds after dark are usually the lapping waves, and Sunset beach is the exact same hipster hang-out it was when we last visited.

Overall, we were relieved to see that — apart from the thorny arrival situation — Lipe hasn’t changed much over the past 15 months. Development seems to have levelled off, environmentally sustainable systems are in place, and the scene remains an entrancing balance of picture perfect beaches, mellow nightlife, comfy accommodation and multicultural food. For a complete island paradise package, Ko Lipe remains tough to beat.

Nice to meet you, Ko Rawi.

With a young boat driver, aptly named Boat, at the helm of our hired longtail, we set off at 09:30 and cruised north. The mountains of Lipe’s two larger and more rugged neighbours, Ko Rawi and Ko Adang, soon came into view, but we first diverged at a snorkelling site called Bak-a-lat. Boat told us that soft coral can be seen here, though we gave up after struggling through poor visibility and throngs of other snorkellers.

Blast — it’s a snorkel jam!

Our disappointing start was quickly forgotten when we slapped on our flippers once again and dove into far less crowded and clearer water just south of Ko Hin Ngam. This time, a half-hour slipped away in what seemed like a heartbeat as we explored a seascape that’s home to tropical fish and spiky sea urchins that pulsed on the surface of deep green coral.

Back on board and with fingertips like raisins, Boat slid his boat up to the curious stone beach of Ko Hin Ngam, or “Island of Beautiful Stones“. While most Andaman islands boast sandy beaches, Ko Hin Ngam is a magnet for stones that wash ashore after being polished by untold time in the deep. Piled high and almost entirely uniform, the dark grey stones are so smooth that it’s a pleasure to walk on them with bare feet. Some appear as perfectly oval grey discs while others bear intricate spirals of mother nature’s design.

Not your average Andaman beach.

Though it’s tempting to pocket a stone or two as souvenirs, a local sea gypsy legend tells how the island was created by a greedy god who hordes the stones. Anyone who steals one is believed to be cursed by the god until the stones are returned. It’s not uncommon, we learned, for wayward “thieves” to send stones by international post to the Ko Adang national park office along with desperate letters begging for them to be brought back to the island. [Ed's note: A woman I was travelling with several years ago told me she took one -- and was run over by a longtail the next day.]

Ko Hin Ngam’s resident deity might make life hell for those who defy it, but the god is also thought to bless visitors who enjoy its stones in a respectful way. Anyone who creates a tower 12 stones tall that doesn’t topple before they leave the island is believed to be granted any wish they desire. Although the island is aesthetically unique, it’s probably this superstitious promise that explains why so many Thai visitors are often found here.

Wish towers on Ko Hin Ngam.

With no stones in our pockets, Boat shoved off and navigated due north towards an unspoilt powdery white sand beach on the south shore of Ko Rawi. Here we enjoyed a simple lunch of rice, chicken and fresh fruit on a broad boulder shaded by gently swaying palms. With bellies full, we followed a stream into the jungle as frogs leaped into crystal clear pools, monkeys rustled in the brush and majestic white birds soared from old-growth tree tops.

We’re not in Connecticut anymore.

Upon returning to the beach, we came across a sign stating that a Thai king visited this very shore 200 years ago. King Rama III apparently “spent five months in (the island’s) arms and cried when he left”, so it’s no surprise that this sublime stretch of sand is known as “King’s Beach”. There’s no doubt that its beauty is suitable for royalty, but we weren’t complaining about having it entirely to ourselves.

No wonder the king stayed for five months.

Once Boat had enjoyed his fill of fresh pineapple and watermelon, we skirted the west coast of Ko Adang and its dramatic rock formations that look to have been tossed here by a far bigger god than the one on Ko Hin Ngam. Though we explored Ko Adang on a previous visit, we had no qualms with sinking our feet into its own luscious white sand once again.

Nice to see you again, Ko Adang.

With midday sun beating down, we climbed the steep trail that leads up Chadoe Cliff and were rewarded with some of the most spectacular views in the entire Andaman Sea. Ko Tarutao loomed to the east as we looked straight down on the cerulean blue water that rims the shores of Lipe and Adang. In the end, we concluded that a cliff jump from the top of Chadoe was a little too daunting (next time we’ll remember our wingsuit), but we did go for one more swim off the beach before rousing Boat from his slumber and returning to Lipe.

I’d say we got our money’s worth.

Not only did our little exploration at sea make for a fun and adventurous day, it was also a welcome break from the ultra-relaxed atmosphere of Lipe. We paid 1,500 baht to charter the longtail from 09:00 to 16:00, lunch included. It’s also possible to join a group boat trip for 550 baht per person, although these are typically more centered on snorkelling with fewer chances to explore the islands on foot. If you like the look of Boat’s boat, he can usually be found laying low at Gipsy Resort when not off maneuvering the waves.

All you need to know.

In Sunrise Beach, Varin Village appears like a private resort with its clean landscaped grounds and surrounding fence, but a well-worn path to the beach indicates it’s publicly accessible. And although the area of beachfront in front of Varin Village is relatively small, more spacious beaches lie nearby. The village itself is made up of separate bungalows perfectly laid out from A through F. Row F bungalows start at 500 baht a night going up to 800 baht a night for waterfront Row A. Each bungalow has a double bed and private bath in addition to a fairly spacious veranda (including hammocks). All have some variation of sea view.

A is for beach front.

Although Varin Village has no on-site eateries, several places to eat are located nearby. Just down the beach is Coco Resort Restaurant and outside the village grounds are several markets as well as small local cafes.

Unassuming reception desk and kayak rentals.

Across the island on Pattaya beach near the walking street is Seaside Resort. This beachfront hideaway is almost identical to next door neighbour Green View Resort but prices are just 500 baht a night here. The bamboo bungalow idea seems to be quite popular, but the less greedy seem to stick with a reasonable non-seasonal average price.

Looks can be deceiving at this beachfront haven.

Seaside Resort’s bungalows have twin and double beds, private baths and adjacent verandas as well as a few items for sale at their tiny reception. There is Family Restaurant next door and you’re just a short distance from Walking Street. The grounds are spacious, allowing a bit of personal space between bungalows and their location is also perfect for those evening sundowners.

Your very own Seaside dream house!

Another open-year-round hot spot is Lipe Cafe, located beachfront between Seaside Resort and Walking Street. Primarily a popular cafe serving food from 07:00-17:00, they also have walk-in traffic accommodation, though with only five bungalows available guests become more like a small community. This is a great overnight option, but the owners are happy to oblige longer staying guests. The guesthouse grounds are intimate and maybe not the best option for loud and boisterous travellers, but the location can’t be beat.

Another not-so-hidden gem.

Cafe Lipe gets many return guests who appreciate their quiet home-y ambiance as well as that 500-600 baht a night price tag. The owners are also quite helpful as a local information source and they even have WiFi access (depending on the wind direction), so whether you’re looking for an inexpensive place to sleep or just a cup of coffee Café Lipe is well worth checking out.

Welcome to Ko Lipe!

There’s plenty of bars and restaurants on Ko Lipe to choose from, but we’ve picked out the best of the lot to ensure your Kodak — or ahem, Instagram — moments are picture perfect. Starting off on the north end of Pattya Beach we have Maprow Bar, where bartender Mon displays his creative eco-menus. With cold beer starting at 70 baht or your basic cocktail for 150 baht you can’t go wrong with his sunset viewing location. His mile-wide smile is free.

The one and only Monkey Bar.

Moving southward, the Jump Around is the very quiet watering-hole for Lipe Resort and across the sands is Musse at the Z-Touch Resort. Their beer starts at 70 baht also and they shake up 120 baht cocktails, but it took four people to translate that information, so we moved on towards more entertaining prospects.

Lots of monkey business here.

Just before the Walking Street is Monkey Bar, where there’s always someone interesting to chat with. They embrace all that is simian including Monkey Bungalows, Monkey Restaurant and soon to be opening, Monkey Trips. Ice-cold bottled beer starting at 60 baht is a welcome invitation to hang-around for the sunset. Their cocktails start at 150 baht and run up to 200 baht for those elaborate tropical trademark drinks such as coco locos or banana daiquiris.

Will this be enough, ma’am?

The animal trend continues with Tiger Restaurant and their bar, and they’re set up for sunset cocktails as well as a fancy sunset seafood dining extravaganza. With additional live music later in the evening, they have all the bases covered from sunset on. The Lion Restaurant next door runs a similar sunset programme with beer starting as low as 40 baht and cocktails from 110 baht. With an assortment of lounging options, this friendly venue is a great place to watch the sun g0 down or admire the catch-of-the- day.

Not as happening as expected but colourful, no?

But if you insist on marking the moment with Bob Marley, Reggae Bar is the next stop over. You may not hear the expected One Love soundtrack blaring down the beach, but you can’t miss the colour scheme. Cold beers starting at 60 baht and cocktails at 120 baht may or may not come with a one love smile, but if you want some alone time this would be the place to stop. We suspect it gets more active after sunset, but there are plenty of comfortable seaside loungers to choose from until then.

Wish you were here.

So no matter where you are staying on Lipe, get yourself over to Pattaya Beach for sunset drinks… and do enjoy the rest of your evening, too.

Welcome to paradise.

After hearing good reviews from travellers staying at Thup Thong guesthouse on Bang Niang beach in the Khao Lak area, we bought a day tour with Fantastic Similan Travel. A range of tour companies can take you to the Similans, but beware that the old adage — “you get what you pay for” — usually holds true. The cheapest cost around 2,000 baht per person while the most expensive top out just below 4,000. Fantastic charges 3,200 per person, but we were given a small discount just for asking.

Note that we’re talking about snorkelling tours here — the Similans are also a fantastic diving destination and there’s no shortage of dive companies in the area, but diving is pricier. It’s also worth mentioning that, unless you charter your own boat, it’s not possible to visit the Similans independently. If you choose to overnight in the islands, you’ll still need to pay a single day rate for a tour company to take you there and pick you up in a speedboat; in other words, you’ll have to pay for a tour whether you want it or not.

It’s worth it.

On the morning of our tour, a minibus showed up on time to take us to the pier just south of Khao Lak beach. After trying on snorkelling gear and being briefed by Fantastic’s cheery staff, we were shuffled onto a speedboat along with a dozen or so other travellers. The boat had adequate space for everyone and cold drinks, pastries and fresh fruit were offered as we skipped over the Andaman waves. The Similans are 50 kilometres due west of Khao Lak; the trip takes about one and a half hours if the weather is good.

The word similan means ‘nine’ after the nine islands of the Similan archipelago in the Malay-derived language of the seafaring Moken people. The islands are small, most are spread several kilometres apart, and all are protected as part of the Mu Koh Similan National Park. Visitors are only allowed to set foot on two of the islands — Ko Miang (#4) and Ko Similan (#8) — due to park regulations in place to protect nesting sea turtles and other wildlife.

Land of no humans.

After arriving at Ko Miang right on schedule around 10:30, we were given about an hour to relax on the beach, do some snorkelling or hike up to a viewpoint before lunch. We opted for the viewpoint, relying on a network of fixed ropes to surmount especially steep sections. While not too difficult for the average hiker, it’s a daunting climb for the average hiker wearing flip-flops.

Due to the time restraints — and the old flips on our feet — we were forced to turn back before making it to the top, but the “wows” we could hear from those who did get there made the views sound pretty darn good. When we returned to the beach, a tasty buffet lunch of Thai curries, stir-fries, grilled chicken and rice was waiting.

Slinking up the viewpoint trail on Ko Miang.

To avoid feeling rushed (who wants to feel rushed in paradise?), we recommend camping out or renting a bungalow on either Ko Miang or Ko Similan, the former being the more central and quieter of the two and the latter offering the best beach but also a more crowded atmosphere. Keep in mind that the national park’s staff are not too helpful and the food served in the national park-run restaurants with limited opening hours is reportedly not too good, so anything more than a night or two might get dull.

Within 10 minutes of being whisked back onto the boat after lunch we were snorkelling off the coast of Ko Payu (#7). Much of the coral appeared dead and light greyish in colour due to coral bleaching in recent years, but bright tropical fish illuminated by rays of sun that pierced the dreamy aqua water made it a memorable 30-minute snorkel. It’s still possible to see thriving, technicolour coral around the Similans, but you’ll need to put on a tank to get to it.

Happy snorkellers.

After the last of 15 smiling faces emerged from the water, our boat cruised to the second snorkelling site in a calm cove surrounded by the dramatic windswept boulders of Ko Ba-Ngu (#9). The underwater scenery was similarly stunning here, but this dip proved to be the highlight of the day thanks to a handful of the area’s long-term residents swimming over to meet us.

Making friends.

After swimming with several not-so-shy green sea turtles, I hopped back on the boat to hopefully catch a photo of one for you, dear Travelfish readers.

One photogenic turtle.

Back on the boat, we headed north to the largest of the islands, Ko Similan (#8) itself, where we found the Similans’ signature landmark — Donald Duck rock — perched over a gorgeous bay with the same name. Looming high on the smooth, sloped cliffs above the bay, this enormous oval boulder looks as though its been itching to jump for the last several thousand years but hasn’t quite mustered up the courage.

Wouldn’t want to be there when it does decide to jump.

A series of wooden steps and what we found to be somewhat precarious footbridges lead hundreds of visitors up to Donald Duck rock everyday. Dozens of tour companies were already anchored in the bay when we arrived, and we were forced to wait in a slow-moving single-file queue before making it to the top. Once we did make it, brilliant views of the bay and its surrounding lush green hills made us forget all about the crowds.

Not a bad spot to drop anchor.

Getting from the beach to Donald Duck rock and back took the better part of an hour, and we noticed many opting out of the views so as to relish their last hour on Similan with another snorkel. This is one of the most dazzling beaches we’ve seen in Thailand, but the crowds did detract from it. Spend the night if you want the same scene minus about 300 people, or head to less travelled but similarly pristine beaches on other protected Andaman islands like Ko Surin and Ko Thachai.

Social hour in Donald Duck bay?

After close to five hours of touring the Similans, the tour staff tore the last few stragglers off the beach and we set off for the mainland. Along the way, a powerful storm blew through, which caused those in the back of the boat (us included of course) to be whipped by sheets of rain mixed with sea water. Breaks in the sea rose two to three metres around the boat, but the drivers did well to ride out the storm. The sun re-emerged by the time we reached the mainland, just in time to catch one of those legendary Khao Lak sunsets.

Meanwhile in Khao Lak …

Although next time we’d probably opt to laze around the Similans for a night or two, we were happy with the daytrip offered by Fantastic Similan Travel. We felt safe in their hands throughout the day, but we also appreciated their lighthearted attitude. And despite the crowds, these islands retain a place on our shortlist of the most luscious in Thailand.

Diving from your bungalow into the pool is not recommended.

Set on spacious grounds filled with palm trees and butterflies, Long Beach Chalet offers two categories of bungalows, both with air-con and the same loft design. We stayed in a standard, which was just big enough for the double bed, wardrobe and table containing the TV, mini-fridge and a kettle. Thanks to the large windows and high ceilings it didn’t feel cramped, but anyone planning to share the room with children, no matter how small they might be, should upgrade to the roomier superiors beside the pool.

Sleep tight, don’t let the mosquitoes bite.

Both types of bungalows have private bathrooms with a hot shower, but for the superiors the bathroom is on the other side of the exterior staircase leading to the bedroom. This is slightly inconvenient when nature calls in the early hours and you have to put on your shoes, but otherwise a clever set-up as you can go from the beach to the shower without tracking any sand into your room.

Another perk of the bungalows’ loft design is the creation of a shady terrace below. Every bungalow’s “basement” has cushion seating and a hammock, making it the perfect place to while away a scorching hot afternoon with a good book (or a good nap). If you ask nicely, the staff will even serve your breakfast here.

Standard bungalow: bathroom on the left, bedroom on the right, terrace below.

Although Long Beach Chalet is not on the beach, you can be there in minutes. A dirt path leads from the back of the resort through a working coconut plantation and onto the sand. Along the beach are a couple of restaurants and bars, but it’s still a very undeveloped stretch of sand and and you may have it all to yourself during the beautiful sunsets. During the monsoon the beach is not maintained and big waves wash litter onto the sand, making the resort’s swimming pool an appealing alternative.

Sunset at Long Beach.

The resort’s restaurant – Three Mums – is known as one of the best on Long Beach and lures guests from other Long Beach resorts over for dinner. Prices are a bit higher than average with mains from 120 to 200 baht, but we loved the massaman curry with pumpkin and the “larb” meatballs were addictive. The talented “mums” who run the kitchen also offer cooking classes.

Standard bungalows at Long Beach Chalet cost 1,900 baht during the high season and 1,000 baht during the low, with superiors 500 baht more. Considering this includes breakfast for two and WiFi, we think this is excellent value and will definitely be coming back.

Check Agoda for a discounted online rate

Long Beach Chalet
472 Moo 3, Long Beach, Koh Lanta Yai
T: (87) 707 6076/(80) 910 1527
www.longbeachchalet.com

This could be your life… at least for a week or two.

Perhaps because there’s so few of them, a lot of detail has gone into the bungalows. Each is made from solid teak – both inside and out – with thoughtful amenities like a mini-fridge filled with bottled water, an electronic safe to stow your valuables while sun-tanning, and a rainshower seamlessly built into the ceiling of the bathroom. The double-sized beds are firm, but not in a back-breaking way, and some bungalows have enough floor space to add an extra cot for children. Internet addicts will be happy to know that there is free wireless internet and it reaches all of the bungalows and even the beach.

We hope you like teak.

But our favourite thing about the bungalows is that they’re just steps away from the white sand of Khlong Nin Beach. Making the most of the picture-perfect view, each bungalow has a furnished balcony and this is where the staff serve your breakfast each morning. Included in the room rate, breakfast is your choice of scrambled or fried eggs, toast, fresh fruit, juice and tea or coffee (instant, of course).

In terms of facilities, Baan Pakgasri Hideaway is pretty basic. It lacks a restaurant (hence breakfast on the balcony) nor does it have a beach bar, spa or swimming pool. But the simplicity of the resort means that your beach time won’t be interrupted by loud music or the persistent cry of “Massage?” If you are looking for somewhere nearby to have dinner, Baan Pakgasri Hideaway has an arrangement with the restaurant at Lanta Miami Resort which is a five-minute walk down the beach, and they will also let you use their pool.

Eggs yummy, coffee not.

Since it is such a small operation, you’ll quickly get to know the Thai family who run Baan Pakgarsi, as well as their cat, who can usually be found napping atop brochures for snorkelling trips and cooking classes in the reception area. Though their English is limited, they’re very welcoming and will pick you up from the Saladan pier with advance arrangements.

Like all resorts on Ko Lanta, room rates fluctuate wildly by season. High season rates range from 1,950 baht for a Standard Sea View Bungalow all the way to 2,950 baht for a Beach Front Bungalow with its own Jacuzzi tub (perfect for a honeymoon), while rainy season rates from May to October are discounted by more than 50%. This may not be the best value resort on Ko Lanta, but getting to keep paradise all to yourself is priceless.

Baan Pakgasri Hideaway
214 Moo 6, Khlong Nin Beach, Ko Lanta Yai
T: (0) 75 662563 / (087) 794 8898
www.baanpakgasri.com
Check Agoda availability for Baan Pakgasri Hideaway — best rate guarantee!

A Moken woman digs for shells on Ko Chang Noi.

Island homes are typically modest, sometimes little more than shacks by the sea, but like these on Ko Muk, they possess an enviable air of simplicity.

It’s the small things.

Though usually calm and peaceful, island life is not always easy. Mainland comforts have yet to reach a host of smaller islands, and many still go without electricity, let alone internet and cell phones. On an island like Ko Bulon Lae, where this photo of traditional cloth drying was taken, life goes on much the same as it has for centuries.

A visit to Ko Bulon Lae is akin to going back in time 100 years.

On some islands, the only connections to the mainland are an occasional crackling radio, or perhaps a charmingly placed post box, such as this one on Ko Surin.

The only access to the “real world”.

Despite the fact that many islanders could live reasonably well off only the resources of their island and the sea, modern food and supplies from the mainland are sought after. To earn money, many islanders have planted rows of rubber trees, which thrive in the wet, tropical climate of south Thailand. Drip by drip, the rubber is harvested from trees like this one on Ko Libong.

Today a tree on an island, tomorrow a tyre in a city.

Once a significant volume of raw, liquid rubber has been collected, it’s molded into mats and sun-dried, like these on Ko Sukorn, before being ferried to market on the mainland.

The finished product, at least as far as the grower is concerned.

Although rubber is a major source of income for many islanders, growing rice, fruit and vegetables is still an important part of island life, and for this, water buffalo are a key source of strength on the farms. These buffalo on Ko Sukorn, however, didn’t appear to be working too hard.

Just a leisurely late afternoon dip.

While some animals are put to work on the islands, others — like this friendly hornbill on Ko Phra Thong — have their own business to attend to.

You know it’s a laid back island when the birds hang out with the locals.

Of course, the sea is the most pivotal external aspect of life for islanders, and for many — such as the family of Moken sea nomads pictured below on Ko Chang Noi — boats are a way of life.

Many Moken spend the majority of their lives at sea.

As it has since time immemorial, fishing remains a vital source of food and income for islanders. In this morning scene from a Ko Phra Thong pier, crab traps await being transported to the bottom of the sea.

Ko Phra Thong’s easterly seaside village is among the most picturesque we’ve seen.

A secret of southern Thai crab trappers is to put out as many traps as possible when there’s a full moon and during the week surrounding it — for some reason, crabs caught during this time possess a particularly sweet flavour. After the meal pictured below, I had little doubt about the practice’s validity.

The fruits of early rising fishermen.

While the sea provides islanders with a wealth of resources, it’s never disrespected or taken for granted. The 2004 tsunami devastated many of the Andaman Sea islands, and locals who survived live with the knowledge that as quickly as the sea gives, it’s also capable of taking.

Among the scattered coral, a single flip flop washes upon Ko Bulon Lae’s shore.

Although islanders are typically hard working folk, they have also perfected the art of relaxing, and indeed the laid back atmospheres of small Thai islands are an infectious draw for many travellers. While there always seems to be time to lie back in a hammock, islanders also enjoy themselves by playing games like soccer, bocci and bird singing contests. In these contests, popular throughout south Thailand, villagers submit their red-headed bulbols and other caged birds in competitions to see whose bird sings the longest. The contest pictured here from Ko Libong began with some 25 contestants, and only two remain.

The suspense is killing me.

Andaman Sea islanders are often deeply spiritual people, and typically it’s in a way that transcends mere rituals to develop a true connection with nature, the sea, God, spirits or whatever higher power(s) one worships. Many traditional Muslim villages are found on the Andaman islands, mixing peacefully with the often minority Buddhists. This sign from a tiny Ko Lipe temple sums up the general atmosphere of goodwill, respect and dignity found among islanders, whether they’re Muslim, Buddhist, Christian or otherwise.

Sounds good to me.

Major religions play a central role in the life of many islanders, but they are often fused with spirit and ancestor worship, which are perhaps a more universal religious force on the islands. While many of the Moken people adhere loosely to Christianity after being swayed by Methodist missionaries in the 20th century, their indigenous spiritual roots continue to thrive.

As part of these traditions, Moken people craft statuettes resembling totem poles, which they believe to be embodiments of the spirits of those who have passed on. The statues are positioned to directly face the sea, and they’re believed to protect villages from periodic ferocious storms caused by angry ocean spirits. I found this one from Ko Surin to be particularly eerie — perhaps there really is someone or something gazing out from another dimension.

If I were an ocean spirit, this lady would give me the willies.

Typically, what’s pictured and written about the Thai islands relates to white sand beaches, pristine waters, lavish resorts, scuba diving and holidays in paradise. All of these are in ample supply in the Andaman Sea, but what’s often overlooked is the modest lifestyle of the people who call these islands home.

As traditional mainland cultures are increasingly threatened by consumerism, materialism and modernisation, the rich cultures of the Thai islands — and in particular the smaller, less touristy ones — seem to carry on their traditional ways contentedly unaware not only of what’s happening on the mainland but also of the handful of tourists who pass through each year. So next time you’re in the islands, make an effort to appreciate the people who dwell there, as they are the creators and keepers of that peace and tranquility that so many travel thousands of kilometres to find.

A smile to remember.

Did I forget to mention all the empty beaches you could ever want?

Ko Phra Thong’s inland landscape is indeed flat and barren, but it’s distinctive in that it’s categorised as desert-like savannah. Many travellers remark that it looks and feels strikingly similar to the savannah plains of Africa, minus the lions, gazelles and giraffes. Given the fact that most of the rest of Phang Nga province (and southern Thailand for that matter) is lush, wet and mountainous, Phra Thong’s expansive grasslands and dry, sandy dunes come as a somewhat baffling surprise.

Sure we're not in Namibia?

For me, it was a welcome surprise. I’ve had some memorable experiences trekking in the rugged, mountainous jungles of Ko Tarutao, Ko Adang, and Phra Thong’s neighbour, Ko Ra, but I’ve always been partial to rolling plains and dry, desert like landscapes. I find there’s something about the hot, raw, expansive feel of such places that make it easy to reflect on the world as a whole, and my place within it.

Not your typical Thai island paradise.

During a recent cycle around Phra Thong, I took a seat at midday on a deserted sand dune and did nothing but watch the sand lizards roam for a while. I forgot the “real” world in all its seriousness and clamour. My petty worries sunk below the surface of the horizon. Any sense of “self” quickly diminished. Only solitude — land, sky, body and mind — remained. When I hopped back on the bike some 20 minutes later, I felt cleansed and utterly alive.

Just me, a few lizards and a big sky.

Whether it’s to look deeper into one’s self or relish life with a friend or loved one, it’s that sense of solitude that brings many back to Ko Phra Thong every year. The other travellers I met on Phra Thong were thoughtful, creative and often spiritually inclined or non-conformist in their attitudes and beliefs. If you’re looking for expensive spa treatments and tidy waiters bringing you drinks by the pool, look elsewhere, but if you want to get away from exactly that type of materialistic tourism, Ko Phra Thong may very well be for you.

Discover your inner hornbill -- or at least throw this friendly one a banana.

Far from being an after thought, Ko Phra Thong also happens to boast some 17 kilometres of wide, almost totally undeveloped beaches spanning the entire length of its west coast. Speaking of solitude, how does walking on a beach for hours and not seeing so much as a single human-made structure (let alone another actual human) sound? So untouched are Phra Thong’s beaches that they’re one of the few places in Thailand where sea turtles still regularly nest, and the endangered lesser adjutant stork may still be found here in all its glory.

If you like long walks on secluded beaches, Ko Phra Thong is for you.

It’s true that Phra Thong’s waters do lack that typical tropical emerald-turquoise colour, but the island’s beaches are pristine in their own right, and the water still makes for some good swimming. A lone dive operation on Ko Phra Thong — Blue Guru — is known for introducing divers to lesser-known dive sites in the area. Also, don’t miss the charming fishing village of Ta Pae Yoe on the island’s east coast facing the mainland for a glimpse of traditional Thai island life.

A scene from Ta Pae Yoe -- sounds Hawaiian doesn't it?

As for accommodation, Phra Thong’s handful of resorts run generators only between 17:00 and 23:00 and/or run on solar power, so don’t expect hot water showers and air-con here. Most of the huts on Phra Thong are cheap (500 to 750 baht in high season) and about as spartan as it gets.

A hut at Mr Chuoi's -- they do come with mosquito nets.

While the newer Seaview and Phra Thong Bay resorts both offer rustic cottages that are slightly more comfortable, Mr Chuoi Hut & Bar is still the most popular spot for budget travellers. Bungalows here are fully thatched — walls and all — and Mr Chuoi is something of a character who enjoys chatting it up with his guests. Aside from serving some delicious authentic Thai food, his restaurant has become something of a meeting ground (and party spot) on the island.

If you have cash to spend and are looking for a more comfortable but still very unique experience, check out Golden Buddha Beach Resort. Spread over a large swath of land, the resort feels like a secret island community — and that’s because it is one. Each beach house is different from the next and all are owned by individuals and families from around the globe who enjoy their vacation homes for short stays and rent them out through the resort while they’re gone. They’re not cheap — expect to pay between 3,500 and 13,500 baht per night depending on the house you want — but the resort is environmentally conscious and offers not only comfort but also a great location and plenty of character and style.

If you really like Ko Phra Thong, why not buy one of these of your own?

Adding to its somewhat mysterious allure, there is no standard means of transport to get to Ko Phra Thong. You’ll first need to get to the town of Khuraburi, from where it’s best to contact your resort of choice (or have a travel company in Khuraburi contact them for you), and ask them for suggestions on how to get you there. While it is possible to charter a boat privately from Saphan Pla pier about seven kilometres north of Khuraburi or Bang Det boat launch (aka “southern pier” or “mangrove pier”) to the west, if you arrive unannounced you might be forced to walk several kilometres to any of the resorts, or try to bug one of the locals into taking you there by motorbike.

Golden Buddha beckons.

Also, be warned that while there are a couple of local boat options, which run between 300 and 400 baht for a one-way trip and typically leave from Bang Det in the early morning, the locals often tell tourists that there’s only one way to go: pay 1,000 baht for a one-way private longtail. This is generally not the case, but it’s best to tell them you want to take the local ferry or banana boat so they know that you are in the know.

Note too, that while Seaview and Mr Chuoi say they’ll be open for low season, Golden Buddha, Phra Thong Bay, and Blue Guru Diving shut down from May 1 to November 1.

Bloody awful.

Don’t despair, Travelfish.org is here, with pointers to five beaches on the island we’d rate a solid nine out of ten. Yes, before you know it you’ll be frolicking just like Leonardo.

Monkey Beach
See that clear spot between the lobsterised Brits and the Swedish posers on Ao Lo Dalam? Stand there, look out to sea and peer to your left. You’ll see one of Ko Phi Phi’s trademark outcrops. What you probably can’t see is the beautiful and 100% undeveloped beach behind it.

Kayak with a view.

Grab a kayak and a large bottle of water and set off. Be warned, it is a longer paddle than it looks (it took us, a thoroughly un-kayak-worthy traveller, about 40 minutes each way) but it is absolutely worth it. The only residents are of the furry with long tails variety, but they keep their distance (unless you’re stupid enough to bring bananas with you). We spent almost two hours here, walked the length, peered at our ancestors, swam a bit, slept a bit and saw four other tourists the entire time. Warning: There is a second Monkey Beach off Tonsai Beach to the west — ignore it. Tourist trap.
Phi Phi untouched rating 9/10 (lose one point for the apes)

Ao Lo Moo Dee
The easiest way to remember the name of this beach is “Moo Dee” — as in “Moody” as in “really grumpy Thai rastas who run the sole beach joint on this absolutely stunning bay“.

Lo "Moody" Beach. Island nuttiness at its best.

Sure Israelis have a bit of a reputation for being heavy-going, but when they feel the need to put up a sign saying that “Israelis will not be served”, we think it really says more about the proprietors than the patrons. Island madness aside, this is a capital B beautiful beach with some good snorkelling and plenty of fish. To get here, walk to Long Beach, past there to Phi Phi The Beach Resort and follow the road. Where the road doglegs, you’ll see a rough trail leading straight ahead — that will lead you down to the back of the coconut plantation filling the bay. Free tip: bring your own water as the rasta shack charges about three times the going rate — which possibly explains the cause of the initial blow up with Israelis.
Phi Phi untouched rating 9/10 (lose one point for island nuttiness)

Secret Beach
Yes, we’ll be the first to admit this isn’t actually a secret beach. After all, a resort hibernates nearby and a bunch of fishermen were hanging out doing not much when we staggered out of the woods and onto the scene, but given the looks we got, we imagine this beach is secret enough that few travellers wander this far. The snorkelling is good.

Just you and a few rocks.

Where?

Start on Ao Lo Dalam, break right. Go past Sunflower Bar (our favourite bar on Ko Phi Phi), past PP Sunset Pavillion and past the next thatch joint that is probably finished by now. Keep going. Yes, keep going. Eventually a road appears out of nowhere; follow it. This will deposit you behind Sunset/Sunrise Resort (sorry can’t remember which — sweat melted our notes on the way back), which was closed when we visited; then make your way down to the beach.

Keep going.

You’ll reach a roughly 10 foot-high rocky ridge that you can climb over. Climb over it. Scramble over the last of the rocks and you’ll find a little, crescent-shaped sandy bay. Some good snorkelling lies offshore here and believe us, you won’t be sharing it with anyone else (that’s code for travellers who like to get their gear off).
Phi Phi untouched rating 9/10 (lose one point for getting your gear off)

Ao Toh Ko
We’ve long had a sweet spot for Ao Toh Ko. While the cost of accommodation has, well, skyrocketed, we still think this is one of the prettiest spots on Ko Phi Phi, but Oh Dear Lord it nearly killed us walking back from here — get health insurance or get the boat!

Beats a work station.

This is one of the few beaches on Ko Phi Phi that gets reliably frequent reports of people getting to snorkel with dolphins.

Really, do we need to say anything more?

Martyrs that we are, we’ve never had the privilege of doing so, but we did come across a pod of dolphins about 200 metres south of this bay while on a longtail a few trips ago, so we do believe the stories and so should you.

Accommodation is available (Tohko Beach Resort) and the food is good and drinks cold, meaning this is an ideal spot for a daytrip of beach beachdom.

How to get here: Get the boat. Too expensive? Walk to the viewpoint (one hour of sweltering pain and agony) followed by another 40 minutes walking back down the other side along a crappy, ill-defined, even-worse-signposted trail that is awash with spiders and ants that BITE REALLY HARD. Let us know if you need the boatman’s telephone number.
Phi Phi untouched rating 9/10 (lose one point for ants that BITE REALLY HARD)

Ao Poh
Ao Poh is one of those beaches best reached by boat. It is best reached by boat primarily because trying to reach it by land (despite having walked there many times on past trips to Ko Phi Phi) is maddeningly confusing and seems to forever deposit you back at Phi Phi Hill Resort.

Bye bye Phuket speedboat daytrippers.

The bay is home to a single, basic bungalow operation, the (imaginatively named) Ao Poh Resort which is closed in low season, but the sand is clean and there is good snorkelling offshore — watch out for the urchins though.

The appeal here is the proximity to Long Beach (five minutes on foot if you were ever to figure out the way) or 10 minutes by longtail. And while in low season they take daytrippers in from Phuket for a buffet lunch, the rest of the time the beach is devoid of people — not even any monkeys.
Phi Phi untouched rating 9/10 (lose one point for urchins)

So there you go, five beaches a little off the beaten trail — Ko Phi Phi is a very big small island and, with a bit more looking around, some other beaches are no doubt well worth finding. That kayak? Head right instead of left and let us know what you find.

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