When cruising up the Chao Phraya River, the massive ochre-roofed wiharn of Wat Kalayanamit on the western bank in Thonburi is among the most attention grabbing structures on the riverfront. Unlike nearby Wat Arun, this imposing, ornate, historic temple doesn’t attract many foreign tourists, but — underrated as it may be — Wat Kalayanamit is … read the full post

For many short-term travellers to Bangkok, a quick jaunt across the Chao Phraya River to the splendid Wat Arun is all that’s experienced of Thonburi. Though largely away from the tourists, Thonburi is home to some of the area’s richest history and culture, and its overall laid-back, artsy and at times quirky atmosphere make it … read the full post

Within a city bursting with history and doused with malls, culture comes in many forms. In a Terminal 21 shopping line, in Wat Pho on the river, around the ring of a muay Thai boxing fight. This weekend, I sought out another shade of Bangkok’s cultural mishmash, along the busy streets of the financial district Silom. … read the full post

Bangkok doesn’t give up its secrets too easily, but for those willing to look deeper, the traditional flute making village of Baan Lao on the west side of the Chao Phraya river in Thonburi offers a taste of some “real” Thai culture away from the tourists. It also happens to make a worthy side trip … read the full post

In the concrete maze of Bangkok, colourful flowers brighten up the greys around every corner, but it’s not just because they look nice; flowers play a pivotal role in an ancient Thai tradition of making offerings to spirits and sacred representations as tangible expressions of kindness and generosity. Bangkok’s biggest flower market, Pak Khlong Talaat, … read the full post

When visitors come to Thailand, they tend to have a mental to-do list, derived from overheard stories at hostels, or the pages of a guide: ride an elephant, pet a tiger, eat a ripe mango, lay on the beach, and of course, visit a floating market. All of these things are possible, but the problem … read the full post

One of Thailand’s most treasured temples, the Golden Mount of Wat Saket glistens above Bangkok’s historic Banglamphu area as imposingly today as it did more than 200 years ago. Wat Saket’s living history, peaceful atmosphere and panoramic views of Bangkok have made it one of my favourite major sites in the city, and when a … read the full post

Historic sites are often the main draw for travellers, but exploring ancient neighbourhoods built around important historic landmarks can sometimes be even more fascinating than the sites themselves. While recently wandering the narrow side streets around Bangkok‘s Wat Saket, I stumbled on the gritty but intriguing temple supply neighbourhood of Baan Bat, which has been … read the full post

Wat Pho may be the larger-than-life stunner on the Bangkok temple circuit, but Wat Arun is still a fine lookin’ piece of sacred real estate waiting across the river.  If you are like me and equate the old with the stunning, the decrepit with the intriguing, then Wat Arun is worth a stop on your … read the full post

Living in a city where skyscrapers sprout like dandelions and Starbucks open alongside wats, it is easy to forgo historical sites for more modern lures. But Bangkok’s absurd concurrence of the old with the new is the nub of its charm, and the ancient sites are as worthy of a visit as Chatuchak market or … read the full post