After the fall of the ancient Siamese capital of Ayutthaya in 1767, a diverse mix of foreign communities — including the Portuguese and Chinese — settled along a now historic stretch of Chao Phraya riverfront in modern Thonburi. Still produced today in a centuries-old bakery near Santa Cruz Church, the Portuguese, Chinese and Thai influenced … read the full post

Bangkok has many churches, but none carries a historical legacy equal to that of Santa Cruz Church on the Chao Phraya River’s western bank in Thonburi. An artifact of Thailand’s first European settlers — the Portuguese — the church also symbolises the religious freedom and cultural tolerance that’s been a hallmark of the Thai kingdom … read the full post

When cruising up the Chao Phraya River, the massive ochre-roofed wiharn of Wat Kalayanamit on the western bank in Thonburi is among the most attention grabbing structures on the riverfront. Unlike nearby Wat Arun, this imposing, ornate, historic temple doesn’t attract many foreign tourists, but — underrated as it may be — Wat Kalayanamit is … read the full post

From both a visual and figurative standpoint, Thailand could very well boast the world’s most colourful cuisine. There are the deep greens, reds and yellows of endless curries, the bursting brightness of spicy salads, and the multi-hued sauces that accompany any good seafood meal. Nothing, however, outshines the bouquets of adorable mini treats known as … read the full post

For many short-term travellers to Bangkok, a quick jaunt across the Chao Phraya River to the splendid Wat Arun is all that’s experienced of Thonburi. Though largely away from the tourists, Thonburi is home to some of the area’s richest history and culture, and its overall laid-back, artsy and at times quirky atmosphere make it … read the full post

In this modern age of factories and mass production, increasingly few artisans carry on the traditional ways of a craft. Like the flute makers of Baan Lao and alms bowl producers of Baan Bat, however, Jiam Sangsajja bronze studio in the tiny bronze-smith village of Baan Bu in Thonburi defies the odds by keeping its … read the full post

Bangkok doesn’t give up its secrets too easily, but for those willing to look deeper, the traditional flute making village of Baan Lao on the west side of the Chao Phraya river in Thonburi offers a taste of some “real” Thai culture away from the tourists. It also happens to make a worthy side trip … read the full post

And we’re off! Gaby and I took this first of many, many pedal strokes on Monday morning, bright and early. Ok, actually, not as bright and early as we should have, but we did make it out of the house by 8:30 and felt like that was a win. We cycled south across the bridge … read the full post

If you’ve come to Thailand for the food (and let’s be honest: if you haven’t, you’ve made a mistake,) visits to local markets are key. Bangkok’s markets are varied — some gigantic, some tiny — but all are a cacophony of striving for the best food at the best price. Participation in this ritual is … read the full post

Though the endless overpasses and grimy back alleys of Bangkok might initially make you think otherwise, there really is an endless stream of  photo ops and experiences to be had in this complex town. Soak it in, keep your eyes peeled and take a good look around, you never know when the city will do … read the full post