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| Author | Message |
| somtam2000 admin mahout Posts: 5183 Located in: Global Village   |
#1 Posted: 22/1/2008 - 16:28 Hi all, If you have done the Huay Xai - Pakbeng - Luang Prabang boat trip by slow boat, please post in this thread when you did it and a rough idea of how many people were on the boat with you. This is to give other readers who are weighing up doing the trip an idea regards to overcrowding on the boat. As always, my humble thanks! ------------------------------ Siem Reap and Angkor Wat on your iPhone |
| wellswall newbie Posts: 2 |
#2 Posted: 4/3/2008 - 15:17 Just took the slow boat from Huay Xai, wasn't too bad we had about 75 people on the boat, was a little cramped but not as bad as some of the horror stories that i have heard, and its still a lot better then the fast boat! stayed in Pakbeng, got ripped off on a really bad guesthouse for 300 baht, and food was expensive as well. Next day left from Pakbeng and we had a boat with about 60-70 people on it and was much of the same, I think the key is to get to the boat early and lock up the good seats towards the front. Also make sure you buy a pillow cause the ground is really hard. Wasn't too bad a ride just kinda boring. but i guess the other options are worse. |
| Iridius newbie Posts: 1 |
#3 Posted: 8/3/2008 - 01:10 Did the trip in November 2007. Don't know how many people where on the boat, but some had to sit on top of the baggage in the back, so it was definitely a lot (one guy said about 100). Being there early is really the best thing you can do. Anyway, if you are lucky (like me ;)) you meet some nice people and can at least pass the time getting drunk (beer was about 1 dollar a bottle). As already said, Pakbeng is expensive and you don't get much for your money. best regards |
| the_tundraman backpacker Posts: 11 |
#4 Posted: 18/3/2008 - 18:29 Hello all, here is a link i found, i think in thorntree i forgot now. The journey is old, though, its do-er did it in december 2005. But there are some very good pictures. Many thanks to the writers. http://www.evcal.org/HuayXaiToLuangPrabang.html Here is another link, it talks about some backpackers who were not given tickets by their guesthouse owners who took their money and arranged for their slow boat trip. Not very relevant if you dont'w want to waste time. But is very funny. http://www.vwvagabonds.com/Bike/BikeTales12.html I have one question, i hope some will answer it here. I plan to go myself, in april end - may beginning, i will be going through chiang mai - chiang khong - huay xai - luang prabang, and i think i will start my slow boat journey around may 1st week. Can anyone please let me know whether the slow boat still operated round may 1st week? What with it being summer season in the north hemisphere, is the river too low for such river journeys? if it is then i will have to plan a bus journey out of huay xai instead. Many thanks in advance. |
| tails101 traveller Posts: 95 |
#5 Posted: 18/3/2008 - 19:58 Did the journey in October 2004 but the other way round (Luang Prabang -> Huay Xai) and had no overcrowding issues at all... on both legs of the journey the locals outnumbered the tourists, which was great! Was an interesting experience though... quoting below from an e-mail I sent home at the time.. "We left Luang Prabang Saturday morning at 8.30 'asia time', which was actually more like 9.30am, on the slow boat to Huay Xai via Pakbeng (overnight stop). Each leg of the journey is supposed to take a day... However, after 2 hours our boat broke down - they tried fixing it, but no joy and told us another one was on its way... An hour or so later another one turned up, and we set off again meandering down the Mekong. We were a bit behind by this point, but sailing down the Mekong was pretty cool, and the scenery was awesome (the boat, less so - wooden bench seats, and not enough cushions for my liking, but all good fun...) - mountain after mountain all covered in green trees... Time passed and it started to get dark (obviously the boat had no lights - navigation or internal) and we hadn't reached the half way point of Packbang... The crew started to look for somewhere to dock (by torchlight) and successfully found somewhere but it wasn't Pakbeng... It was a very small Laos village which had an outdoor shop, a restaurant with no menu, a guesthouse and electricity by generator. We were made to feel very welcome and had a great meal... The bottle water on sale at the shop was a few years out of date, but very drinkable! When it came to sleeping we opted to sleep on the boat, it was cheaper than the guesthouse and we had to be off again at 5.30am! So 9 travellers all camped out on this boat with the crew and a group of locals, with candles as our only light and they ran out at 9pm... there wasn't much room and the wooden floor was very hard! But hey, we all did get some sleep... and set off again the next day eventually arriving in Packbang in time to catch the boat for the next leg on the journey. It may not have gone quite according to plan, but I wouldn't have wanted it any other way" |
| shanghai306 longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#6 Posted: 18/3/2008 - 21:41 tails101 - i'm hoping to do the trip the same way you did in a couple of weeks. my question is: around roughly what time did you arrive in huay xai? was there enough time to cross the thai border on the same day? and once in chiang khong did you have to spend the night or were you able to make an onward journey somewhere else? (i'm hoping to not stop in chiang khong and head straight for bangkok) any help would be much appreciated! nic |
| tails101 traveller Posts: 95 |
#7 Posted: 19/3/2008 - 04:31 Hi Nic, We didn't make it to Huay Xai in time to cross the border the same day... We ended up spending one night in Huay Xai and then crossed the border early the next morning. I'd make sure you have enough cash (either in Thai Bhat or Kip) to cope with spending the night in Laos just in case... According to our crew, some days the boat makes, others it doesn't... To be honest we probably should have made it but the crew stopped off to pick some fish up and then shared some Lao-Lao with us as well as a few stops to drop off locals... IIRC the border closes somewhere between 5-6... I'm not sure what time the last bus direct to Bangkok leaves, but unless there is an overnight one, I would guess you're out of luck on being able to head straight off. However, if you miss crossing the border the same day, you should have no problem making it to Bangkok after crossing the border nice and early! Hope this is of some use... Cheers, Mark. |
| shanghai306 longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#8 Posted: 19/3/2008 - 07:00 Hi Mark, cheers for the quick and informative reply! In that case, we may just spend the night in Huay Xai and then do the border crossing first thing in the morning. Do you know if there are any buses from Chiang Khong that head straight to Bangkok? Or would I have to go over to Chiang Rai first? thanks again, Nic |
| tails101 traveller Posts: 95 |
#9 Posted: 20/3/2008 - 04:11 Hi Nic, I'm pretty sure you can get a bus from Chiang Khong direct to Bangkok... I could find times on the Internet for buses to Chiang Khong from Bangkok so I guess they go the other way too ;) Have a fantastic trip... Cheers, Mark. |
| shelld backpacker Posts: 16 |
#10 Posted: 1/4/2008 - 14:12 Greetings all Did the Huay Xai to Luang Prabang slow boat on 06/03/08 and after the initial shock of the amount of passengers, had a brilliant time. Just go with the flow & everything seems to work out. We had no seats & ended up sitting on small plastic stools in the cooking area at the back of the boat. We met many great people from all over the world & actually ended up traveling with some of them for over a week. Sure its slow but the scenery is wonderful & if you buy a cheap cushion before you board, your bum will still be attached at Pakbeng. Really enjoyed Pakbeng as well. The guesthouse was clean, the staff were very cool & accommodating & the food was pretty good. Can't remember the name of the GH but didn't hear any horror stories from fellow travellers, that stayed elsewhere, the following day on the boat to Luang Prabang. Just stay chilled, have a few beerlao & enjoy the whole experience. I highly recommend doing this trip & I'm not a seasoned young backpacker, I'm a 40yo mum. Can't wait to go back next year! |
| michmich11 backpacker Posts: 19 |
#11 Posted: 23/4/2008 - 21:30 Hi, I will be traveling in June for a little less than 3 weeks. I plan on spending time in Luang Prabang--I'm curious if you all think taking the slow boat would be a good use of 2 of my (too few!) days in the region. I don't mind spending the money to fly either. Thanks for your advice! Michelle |
| SBE under-employed Posts: 873 Located in: Global Village  |
#12 Posted: 24/4/2008 - 05:10 I'd fly. It's not worth two days of your holiday. I did that boat trip in early November 2004 and our boat was so full it hit a rock and sank about an hour before we should have reached Pak Beng. We had to abandon ship and wade to a sand-spit in the Mekong where we spent a rather a damp and uncomfortable night, though we built fires and the captain salvaged some crates of Beer Lao He only charged 4000Kp for a big bottle which helped raise spirits a bit. |
| pikkumyy09 newbie Posts: 4 |
#13 Posted: 27/4/2008 - 10:26 Hello all, Did the journey about April 7th or so - from Chiang Mai to LP. I would suggest taking a bus that leaves during the day, (the price usually has accommodation included, the night bus doesn't). Our night bus arrived at approx 3.30 instead of 06.00, so ended up getting a room for 50baht each. Got to Thai immigration for 08.15, and were in Laos by 09.00. After waiting for visas, and everyone else, I think it was about 10.30 when we left. Pick up some water and snacks before getting on board, some boats will sell them, but the first one we were on didn't. I thought the boat was full already, until another group the size of ours showed up! Had a bit of a panic thinking the boat is going to capsize, but it was fine. Definitely get there early so you can have a seat. And buy a cushion! If you're small enough it's pretty comfortable on the floor with some life jackets and a cushion... Arrived in Pakbeng about 17.00, had already booked our guesthouse (300baht for two), I think it was called Bounmee, it was okay, nothing spectacular, but wasn't horrible either. Left again the next morning in a nicer boat (with proper seats towards the front and a western toilet), again, make sure you arrive early enough! It looks much better than the speedboat, they wear helmets, and there isn't a toilet on board! It's a great place to meet people, travelled with a group for the next week, and the scenery is stunning, just make sure you get a cushion! Happy travels! K |
| emielvl backpacker Posts: 13 |
#14 Posted: 30/4/2008 - 01:35 I would like to take the slow boat from huay xai to luang prabang, but only one part of the (2day) trip. Which part is the most beautiful (landscape wise)? Huay xai - pak beng or pak beng - luang prabang? |
| SBE under-employed Posts: 873 Located in: Global Village |
#15 Posted: 30/4/2008 - 14:27 It was a long time ago and to be honest I can't remember very well, but I don't think there was a huge difference in the quality of the scenery before and after Pak Beng. Both stretches of the trip have nice landscapes but it nevertheless gets monotonous after a while. Maybe someone who's done it recently can be more specific. Personally I thought the scenery on the road between LP and Vang Vieng was much more spectacular. Just out of interest, how long does it take if you go by road from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang? |
| emielvl backpacker Posts: 13 |
#16 Posted: 30/4/2008 - 18:17 Hi SBE, thank you for your quick answer! By road it will probably take you 1,5 days. One day from huay xai to udomxai (11 hours by bus) and 5 hours from undomxai to lp. We were thingking of making kind of a round trip: huay xai - luang nam tha - udomxai - pak beng - luang prabang. |
| jenniemcmartin longtail driver Posts: 8 |
#17 Posted: 1/5/2008 - 01:43 Hey everyone! My fiance and I did the slowboat trip in December 2005. There were about 50 people, it was very relaxing (thank god for earplugs), we actually had a great time despite DREADING the trip for a whole week prior. Pakbeng was certainly interesting; we didn't book ahead of time but found a room no problem...there was a dead rat in our bathroom, but they got rid of it quickly! The second day seemed very short which was nice as we arrived in Luang Prabang while it was still daylight, a bonus when you're trying to find a room! A couple of tips: find a market in Thailand before you go and pick up cushions to sit on. Bring some dried fruit and water with you...when we went they only sold Lays chips and Beer Lao...which is GREAT, but doesn't do wonderful things to your guts when you're on a boat for 10 hours. Snag a seat on the FLOOR, forget the wooden benches, they're garbage to sit on for more than 3 minutes. Bring earplugs and a good book. Look outside every once in a while; we witnessed an elephant sauntering up the banks of the river...it was probably the best moment fo our 3 month adventure!!! |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#18 Posted: 22/6/2008 - 20:29 I plan on doing this trip in August from LP to Huay Xai. Does any body know what the crowds are like at this time of year. I think the advice for cushions and ear plugs is great Thanks Steve |
| smartso backpacker Posts: 13 |
#19 Posted: 6/7/2008 - 22:26 I did the slow boat May 31 2008. The first day of the trip wasn't that bad as we had a bigger boat so it fit most of the people fairly easily. I think we had over 100 but it was decently comfy. I was not a big fan of the town of Pakbeng as I was woken up at about 2am by someone trying to get into my room but I hear that's just kind of par for the course for that town. Day two we had a smaller boat and more people jammed on, I'd guess upwards of 130 but its hard to say. This was a pretty rough day for most but not bad for me as I had one of the nice chairs. I will say that the slow boat the day before me actually broke down and everyone wound up having to spend the night on the river. Some people slept on the rocks on the shore and others on the roof of the boat. A little sketchy if you as me but I suppose it would be one heck of a story. The boat the day after me actually mutinied and refused to leave unless they took two boats because they had so many people. After that apparently the trip was not surprisingly quite comfortable. If you've got the time I'd recommend doing the slow boat for sure as by the time you roll into Luang Prabang you will know a good chunk of the people on the boat and continue to see them through out Laos. There is also no way in hell I'd take the speed boat. One guy I ran into had it hit something and basically disintegrate on him destroying his camera. Another girl who I met had been traveling for almost a year and said it was the worst experience of her whole trip (she said she just cried the entire way). |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#20 Posted: 7/7/2008 - 11:54 #18: LPB upriver north to Huay Xai is hardly ever crowded, even in December (peak season). most of the world does the trip downriver thanks to guidebooks, leaving empty boats for the return journey. sometimes i wonder if this one factor that drives the boat operators to put out as few downriver boats as possible (i.e. squeeze 100+ backpackers on a single boat), since the boats have to return upriver at a loss? elephant-spotting: might have luck on left side of boat as you head upriver during the LPB-Pak Beng section, esp around Tha Suang area. |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#21 Posted: 7/7/2008 - 20:29 Thanks for the info wanderingcat I'll be there in about 5 weeks and will post a note when I get back |
| wimpey1946 newbie Posts: 1 |
#22 Posted: 7/7/2008 - 22:07 we were on it November 2007 100 people onboard just filled up\but somewhere on the road we get 20 bags of rice in the middle of the boat people has to move on right to left to keep the boat steady but it was an expierience after all |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#23 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 00:47 hey layabout bloke when in august do u plan on being there in lpb..im doing a quick visa run fromt hailand in august leaving 10th august i think arriving in lp hopefully next day as ill get the bus in ventiene stay the night or two and then head up the river to huey xai ....i have 5 nights to take care of so 1 in ventiene 2 in lp and 1 or 2 on the way up.....hoping to cross into thailand and stay in pai the night getting smashed then off to bkk next morning or night.....shud take care of my 95 days in thailand to 90 which is my limit... is there a fixed price for the slow boat tot he border and whats a night worth in lp, vent, and pak beng |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#24 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 19:13 Paulspad2002 we may be there at the same time we are heading to Cambodia for a few days from 5th August then back to Nong Khai into Vientiane and then head north to LP. I,m not sure if boat price is fixed and from what I can find out accomodation isn't expensive in most places just depends on what you want |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#25 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 19:35 mmm ok im just researching shit now as i think ill be leaving bangkok 10th august so i can get thjis trip done and be back in time to see a freind on the following sunday.....at this stage its 1 nite ventiene 2 nits lp boat trip spose to be 2 days 1 nite so it gives me a free night somewhere maybe in hey xai if its cheap then i can skip to pai for the night and then get anight bus or whateve to bangkok from there or just get a 4hr bus to CM then over night train..its possible that we may be in ventiene or lp at same time if ur taking a slow trip as im sure to catch u up |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#26 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 19:45 slowboat fare fixed if you buy from Huay Xai/Pak Beng/LPB boat office/on boat itself. no need to book ahead, unlimited tickets sold. separate ticket for each half of journey, last heard ~110,000kip (early 2008), but fuel prices keep rising. travel agents will add on however much they like to get out of you to the fare. some (except Nagi & Asian Oasis? who run their own boats) come with empty promises of nicer boats, saw tourists waving receipts from travel agents & arguing with poor boat crew who weren't to blame at all. going upriver: don't get on the wrong boat when leaving Pak Beng - ask around. most foreigners go downriver so locals sometimes assume all foreigners want to board the LPB-bound boat! had nice accom in Pak Beng (Monsavanh GH) for 80,000kip (2006 price), many cheaper & also more expensive places. |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#27 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 20:05 ok so is that 110,000 per section or total trip..sounds ok if total.....does anyone have any info on the buses ventiene to lp or do i have to post somewhere esle.....im trying to organise my whole trip all at once as i need to be back in bkk...any one keen on sharing a twin room as well male or female is welcome if ur in ventiene on night of 11th...just if ur on a tight ass budget like i am although i know its cheap, i didnt expect to be having to do this visa run as my business visa letter failed to arrive from my agent..dam |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#28 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 20:11 If you see a bloke with a red back pack, blondish hair wearing sandals and shorts just call out Steve and it may be me. I,m still checking prices and organizing things so we may catch up |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#29 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 20:15 sweet ill be a blonde bloke with a green pack wearing flip flops in cargo pants.....a nights drinking beer lao n whisky on the mekong might be unforgettable or forgettable...been a year since i was there.....am just waiting on a reply from a lp guesthouse run by anm aussie bloke called nikki over looking the mekong seems real nice and cheap as.....max for me is $6 usd singles apparantly are cheaper...more money for lao beer baguettes and cheese, cant beat that watching the sun go down |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#30 Posted: 8/7/2008 - 20:19 Thanks for the tips wanderingcat I'll make sure I check the boats direction |
| ulto longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#31 Posted: 11/7/2008 - 18:15 Does any boat do this in one day. I hear conflicting reports that there are (or were) but not any more due to eh local lobbying. |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#32 Posted: 11/7/2008 - 18:36 yes the speedboats do but they are not very safe |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#33 Posted: 11/7/2008 - 18:54 I have read that the fast boats do it in 6hrs with stopover at Pakbeng but you have to be crazy to go on one unless you have a death wish |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#34 Posted: 13/7/2008 - 00:10 mmmmm im beginning to notice some problems that i think im going to havhe after reading many blogs..... actually im getting overnight train to nong khai, will cross the border and trip to LP same day taking 10 hours....will take slow boat to huey xai but im told or i read that a lot of them dont make the journey in time to cross the border...how true is this as i plan on going to pai that night i arrive so i can chill out there as i am on limited time and have to be back in bkk the sunday morning....so i cant ctually re enter thailand till the 15th august as its a visa run im doing..out on 11th in on 15th..... so if i know he details then im going to have to stay in huey xai the night i think its rather difficult not knowing the unknown |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#35 Posted: 7/8/2008 - 16:15 ok im leaving bkk 10th august layabout....ill be in LP on night of 11th as im going straigh there long trip i know....where will u be.....im heading for some aussie run guesthouse on the river somethig like last dreamer seems nice and nice sunsets too...wanna do the fall s the following day then on the 13th i get slow boat to thai border...any one keen for a drink on the 12th ...also looking for someoen to share twin room to keep costs down if anyone is keen |
| neosho traveller Posts: 100 |
#36 Posted: 13/8/2008 - 02:29 I did the northern route from Chiang Khong to Huay Xai to Pakbeng to Luang in late Dec. of 2007. Spent New Year's eve in Luang. River is down that time of year but you can see where it will be 30ft higher during the monsoons. They only thing I wish to add is watch your luggage when leaving the boat in Pakbeng. The locals rush down to help unload, carry your baggage up the steep embankment and then wanted 100 baht for it. Some people never saw their luggage upon leaving the boat. I'm 57 so if you're to old and/or handicapped, I would not recommend it. Otherwise I'm glad I did while I still could. Crowded, cramped and uncomfortable at times but a good trip. Plus I was sporting a hangover from partying with the bus drivers in Chiang Khong the night before. |
| rhymeandreason longtail driver Posts: 8 Located in: United Kingdom |
#37 Posted: 1/9/2008 - 00:11 Travelling in Laos this October - but thinking of doing the reverse of what I think most people do - so coming north from Vientiane to LP and doing the slow boat back to the Thai border - can anyone tell me if this is a cunning plan to avoid overcrowding? Also - what will the weather be like late October / early November... are we going to drown? |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#38 Posted: 1/9/2008 - 06:01 I've just got back from doing that trip and yes it is a cunning plan to avoid crowds as ther was hardly any body with us. About 10 westerners and the rest locals who were dropped off at various villages on the way. It is a very slow trip took us 10.5 hours first day and 9 hours second day. Possible due to the fast flow of the river. The seats are small wooden benches and backrest is set at right angles so you can't get comfortable unless you lie on the deck like some of us did. Take a good book and some music as it gets a bit boring watching the jungle go by. The stop offs at Pakbeng and Huay Xai are an experience but don't believe the Tuk Tuk drivers when they tell you the passport office is open until 6.30. I did enjoy the trip but would take the fast boat if I done it again. Hope this helps. |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#39 Posted: 1/9/2008 - 06:07 paulspad2002 I know this is a bit late but just got back home my plans changed and nevver got to Nong Khai I was probably in LP at same time. Was main road floode when you were there? |
| blpratt longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#40 Posted: 15/9/2008 - 07:25 We're hoping to go from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, but maybe only taking a slow boat for part of the journey. Is one section, either from Huay Xai to Pakbeng , or Pakbeng to LP, more scenic than the other? Does anyone know how long the bus takes from Pakbeng to LP, or if it's really an option? Thanks! |
| paulspad2002 motodop Posts: 21 |
#41 Posted: 15/9/2008 - 08:17 hey layabout, no the main road wasnt but the road down by the river was and the main road to oudomxai about 20 km out of L.P was .....i got he wrong info from the tourist centre and had my plans all screwed up and never was able to get the boat due to wrong info and so missed out on that river trip much to my disgust and then also as they gave me the wrong info about the bus trip as well i never made it to pakbeng either to catch the 2nd half of the trip so had to do the bus all the way to huey xai and was a real nightmare.....ive posted it in a warning about the laos slow boat trip on here as an updated info list so have a look...cheers hope ur trip was more enjoyable than mine |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#42 Posted: 19/9/2008 - 18:04 paulspad2002 I meant the main road by the river so we probably walked past each other. The boat trip up river was long 10.5 hrs to Pakbeng and when we got there the river banks had been washed away and the Indian restaurant that used to be up top was in the river. The trip to Huay Xai took another 9 hours next day but it was worth doing. Cheers |
| klaralotte newbie Posts: 4 |
#43 Posted: 10/10/2008 - 16:40 We are a small group of 7 people and will do the boat trip from Houy Xai to Luang Prabang on the 19th or 20th of October. We are thinking to hire a boot and are looking for other people to join. My Thai phone number is: +66 879080274 give me a call if you are interested to join Charlotte |
| jmartin longtail driver Posts: 5 |
#44 Posted: 19/10/2008 - 11:45 My husband and I took a slowboat from Huay Xai to L.P. on October 14 and 15th. There were well over 100 people on our boat and 15 bicycles on top - it was packed and very uncomfortable. I would be lying if I said this was a fun trip. The trip to Pakbeng was about 6.5 hours and the trip to L.P. was just over 8 hours on the second day. On the first day our boat engine died, luckily not too far from Pakbeng . We drifed while the captain cursed up and down the aisles but eventually another boat arrived and towed us the rest of the way to Pakbeng . The wooden benches are horrendous and so crammed together that many people cannot sit facing forward as there is mere inches between the benches. The trip also brought out quite shameful behaviour in other travellers. I watched people work very hard to hog two seats (sometimes the nice comfy car seats at the back) while other people were forced to sit on the floor. I was really upset when I watched an elderly Lao woman hobble up and down the aisle looking for a seat, while a young guy kept lying across two seats to himself, apparently oblivious (but I think wilfully blind). It was a pretty disgusting sight. Everyone was clearly very uncomfortable and we were all very glad to be off the boat in L.P. If you do take the boat (the scenery is really stunning) just dont be a complete jerk about it. Maybe the rest of us should speak up more too... |
| mic59 beach masseuse Posts: 87 |
#45 Posted: 27/10/2008 - 12:32 Just about to take the bus to Chiang Khong from Pai to then take the slow boat to Luang Prabang. Reading this thread has shown me the importance of getting a cushion, so I thought I'd post that you can get good ones in Pai for 85 baht. Not the peanut or neck pillows but proper flat pillows. You can get them from a shop on the same side as the road as the AYA travel service. Go past the bus station and when you get to a large shop selling kitchen utensils, clothes, matresses etc. that's it. I would assume the same would apply for other places where you would get this trip, I know there'd be no problem with getting a cushion in Chiang Mai. And the good thing is that after the trip, if you don't want the inconvenience of carrying the cushion you can leave it on the boat for the next person. |
| jpaus newbie Posts: 1 |
#46 Posted: 30/10/2008 - 15:38 Hi all, I'm planning to do this in January 2009 with 2 of my friends. Will we be able to cross from Chiang Khong into Huay Xai and still make it for the slow boat? We hope to be in Huay Xai whenever the immigration office opens (8:00am) but we will also need to get our Laos visa on the spot. I've read somewhere that the slow boats wait for all of the tourists from guesthouses are on the boat before they leave. Thanks in advance. |
| mic59 beach masseuse Posts: 87 |
#47 Posted: 31/10/2008 - 13:23 After taking the trip I would say there are 4 major requirements. A cushion,as previously mentioned; water, you can buy it on the boat but it is preferable not to have to navigate the bodies on the floor; something to eat as the boat only haschips. Something refreshing like different typesof fruit. A book as there will be periods where thereis nothing to look at and you will be bored out of yourskull. As to the overcrowding question that this sticky started with, well we had about 100 on the boat to Pakse and the oneto Luang Prabang. In Pakse there was a guesthouse called Doilivasert which charged THB200 for a comfortable and sizeable room and also did me a packed fruit lunch for THB120. |
| klaralotte newbie Posts: 4 |
#48 Posted: 31/10/2008 - 19:39 Posted from within Vietnam (why do we highlight this?).Hi, this is Charlotte again (the one who wanted to hire a own boat from Huay Xai) Actually its no problem, the price is 500 US$ per boat, but the maximum number of person which can goon a hired boat is 10, maximum 11, which brings the price up from around 29 US for the public boat to nearly 50 US per person. The travel time is still two days, as the boat will stop in Pak Beng. To find a group of people to join is no problem, you just need to wait at the border for one hour or so and ask everybody who crosses the border. ...and, its no problem to cross the border first thing in the morning and still get the boat on the same day, as the boats are leaving between 10 and 11 o'clock. And after all, the whole thing is not as bad as its sounds! so enjoy the landscape and have fun taking the slow boat! By the way, you can buy nice tasteful pillows (hello kitty) at the boat pier in Huay Xai! |
| mic59 beach masseuse Posts: 87 |
#49 Posted: 2/11/2008 - 14:38 To correct my previous post(post #47), the halfway town on the Mekong is Pakbeng and the name of the guesthouse is Donevilasack. I have mentioned this guesthouse in feeback in the Pakbeng guesthouse reviews. |
| rhymeandreason longtail driver Posts: 8 Located in: United Kingdom |
#50 Posted: 3/11/2008 - 19:07 Just did the slow boat from LP to Huat Xai - defintely better going in that direction with just 40 passengers as opposed to over a hundred in the other direction! Get to the landing stage nearest the bakc of the palace early and you can get decent seats (some boats have a few bus seats - MUCH more comfy than the benches!!) The best scenery is probably nearer Lunag Prabang end but it's all interesting. It's about 9 hours each day going up river and Pak Beng wasn't great, but contrary to some reports it did get us to Huay Xai in time to cross the river back into Thailand... but only just!! Really liked thetown of Chiang Kong - Mr Sayan at the Easy Cafe sells cheap cushions and does great shakes! |
| rosiea newbie Posts: 1 |
#51 Posted: 4/11/2008 - 08:58 Hi great info everyone - thanks. I am planning to do the trip from Huay Xai to LP with three other adults and three kids (age 5-12) next September and wondering if we would be better to book the Nagi boat rather than the standard ones. It claims to do it in one day downriver. Does anyone have an opinion or experience of this? Is it safe when the river is high at this time of year? Thanks |
| natisafunkymonkey longtail driver Posts: 5 |
#52 Posted: 7/11/2008 - 20:11 We did the trip on 8 and 9 Oct 2008. I am not sure how many people were on the boat but there were enough seats for everyone and quite a few of us got whole 2 person benches to ourselves (not as spacious as it sounds). The days are long and its a bit uncomfortable but on the whole we enjoyed it, I think we were there at a very quiet time though. Make sure you get your packed lunch and plenty of snacks before you go (cheaper to get in Chiang Kong for the first day). |
| natisafunkymonkey longtail driver Posts: 5 |
#53 Posted: 7/11/2008 - 20:11 We did the trip on 8 and 9 Oct 2008. I am not sure how many people were on the boat but there were enough seats for everyone and quite a few of us got whole 2 person benches to ourselves (not as spacious as it sounds). The days are long and its a bit uncomfortable but on the whole we enjoyed it, I think we were there at a very quiet time though. Make sure you get your packed lunch and plenty of snacks before you go (cheaper to get in Chiang Kong for the first day). |
| PrawnFingers newbie Posts: 2 |
#54 Posted: 8/11/2008 - 17:17 Did the slow boat from HX to LP on the 1 Nov 2008. I crossed the border the afternoon before after traveling up from Chaing Mai. Got to the border around 9 but didn't leave til 12. They were waiting for people who had just crossed the border. Watch out for a scam for those who cross the border the same day as getting the boat. When u cross the border, u are put it in a 'waiting area' for about 2 hours and they tell u horror stories about the slow boat and Pak Beng and that the minibus is better. Firstly it is not a minibus but a WWI local bus. I met two girls who took the bus and it took 17 hrs when they were told it would take 10. The slow boat is not so bad, the first day to Pak Beng was only 5.5 hours and I had a bench to myself. Bring a cushion!! Get there early and get one of the few car seats or it's more comfortable to sit/lay on the floor at the front. We had two boats on the first day, with maybe 90 on mine and 30 on the other. If u kick up a fuss about overcrowding then they usually relent. The second day everybody was put on one boat again if enough people make a fuss they take 2 boats. I talked to people who got the boat the next day and they took two boats from Pak Beng to LP. The second day was a lot longer, around 8-9 hours and it gets fuller as they pick up more locals along the way. Overall, i enjoyed the experience of the slow boat. |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#55 Posted: 16/11/2008 - 10:36 a post about an interesting slowboat experience here: http://ladycroft.travellerspoint.com/29/ seems like there are indeed people trying to convice tourists to opt for the bus instead. there's no way one can reach Luang Prabang in 10h by bus, think the minimum is closer to 13+h on a good vehicle with no stops along the way. |
| knotty13 newbie Posts: 2 Located in: United States |
#56 Posted: 17/11/2008 - 02:08 We are going to LP from chaing rai..in jan 09 do we need to be at the boarder the night before in order to get through imagration and get a boat to pak beng or can we stay in chaing rai and get up early to goto the boarder , and how long does it take to get to the boarder from chaing rai should we take the bus? or hire a car? or should we stay in chag klong the night before? any ideas? and any else going to be in LP, ving vang around late jan 09? tag youre it Knotty ------------------------------ http://www.emeraldrosegifts.com |
| maedbh3 newbie Posts: 3 |
#57 Posted: 4/1/2009 - 17:29 Be warned of one Laos guy who spoke to almost 160 of us the morning we were leaving Huay Xai . He had some kind of official job as he was the one who gave us an 'orientation' talk about getting to Luang Prabang . I was there to take the slow boat to LP and so was everyone else, but this guy toldus to expect 10 hour journeys both days, made all the people at Pak Beng out to be crooks and thieves (not so) and basically convinced 80 people (who had already paid their slow boat ticket) to pay an additional 600 Baht to take a private minibus to Luang Prabang instead, telling us it would take only 7 hours, Well, he was so good at appearing nice, professional, genuine, that many peopel bought it. NOt me. I had a great 2 days on the cramped boat, which sailed for only 6 hours each day; made loads of new friends and even Pak Beng was ok, just for an overnight (totally commercial but no representation of Laos in general). I met some folks in Luang Prabang who had taken the additional expense of going by minibus and they were ripped off - it took them 13 hours to get to LP and they said the ride was not worth it. I guess Mr. NIceGuy was setting up his own sidebusiness of minibuses and at Huay Xai he has a captive (and ignorant) audience. Michele www.roamsweetroam.blogspot.com |
| maedbh3 newbie Posts: 3 |
#58 Posted: 4/1/2009 - 17:30 PS I did the trip in the beginning of November with about 65 people on our boat the first day and 90 on it the second day (squashy but we got there early to get good seats) - they put 2 boats' worth of passengers together onto one boat.... |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#59 Posted: 4/1/2009 - 17:48 We did the boat trip from LP to Huay Xai in August and when we got to PakBeng the Indian restaurant had just slid down the river bank into the Mekong. They had tied it to some other nearby structures to stop it floating away. I was just wondering is it still tied up there or has it gone down river along with anything else. Apparently it was the Highest the Mekong had been in 42 years Cheers |
| basho motodop Posts: 24 Located in: United Kingdom  |
#60 Posted: 27/1/2009 - 16:33 Posted from within Vietnam (why do we highlight this?). Did it with 7 of us in our group in November 2008. Seemingly hundreds on the boat. Get there early on the second day to secure the limited comfy seating. I took a cushion which I bought for 30 in Thailand (I think). Basho ------------------------------ www.outsidecontext.com - backpacking the world! |
| mimapuddleduck newbie Posts: 1 |
#61 Posted: 1/2/2009 - 16:32 Just arrived in Luang Prabang after taking the slow boat from Huay Xai. I booked through an agency in town and was one of about 150 people or more who was supposedly going to board the boat that day. After being taken over to Laos to sort out our visas we were then herded down to the drop-off point where our passports were removed and we were tod we would have to wait until more people turned up before we could board the boat. Turns out they took everyone's passport in order to make sre we stayed together and were in one place ready for 'the talk' from an official-looking guide who told us we were his guests, and he wanted to make sure we were safe. The passports he said were removed to make sure he knew who was going on the boat (although I never saw this being checked) and his talk, kicked off with a warning that if we can't swim, he needed to know - and then made a reference to a boat sinking a couple of years ago and someone dying as a result. We were told that when we got to Pak Beng people would try to take our bags off the boat (and some would try to steal them) and that there would be limited (and expensive) accommodation there that evening... and that we might have to stay with a family - and that the journey would take 11 hours on the second day rather than 7 as we'd been told. Conveniently we were then informed that there was a new bus route which people could take if they didn't want to do the boat any more. The bus was 900 baht more and - needless to say half the group were now so scared about the trip that they decided to take the bus instead - which is 12 hours apparently door to door. Arriving in Pak Beng (now a bag of nerves) we found that there was no problem finding somewhere to stay, it wasn't dark when we arrived and no, we didn't sink. The second day took no more than 8 hours and the entire trip was absolutely brilliant fun. Yes, the boat was crowded (around 90 - 100 people on board) but a couple of nervous tourists kicked up a stink and refused to get on board. As a result, they put on another boat and everyone was happy. People were incredibly twitchy on the boat as we set off as a result of this talk which was clearly set up to make more money out of easily spooked travellers. There doesn't seem to be any way out of keeping your passport and avoiding the scare-mongering - but do try to shut out this (quite aggressive) man's speech, sit back and enjoy the ride - I wouldn't have missed it for the world. Pak Beng by the way is also fab and yes, the lights do all go out at around 10pm - after which time all you have is the stars and the sound of the river for company. Brilliant. |
| Pernette longtail driver Posts: 7 |
#62 Posted: 6/2/2009 - 19:03 We buyed our tickets at the official ticket office near the slowboat landing. The only thing you have to do is write down your passport number, they don't take your passport. And it's cheaper than buying from one of the travel agents in town. We went on the 27th of january and all went well for 4 hours. We left only at 12:15h because they wait for all of the people who cross the border that morning. After 4 hours of navigating the Mekong, the rudder broke and we crashed on the shore... The captain jumped off and waved we should do the same. After that, we took our backpacks out and after 1.5 hours another slowboat came and took us for 15 minutes further to a local village. It was almost dark and some of us slept with local families and we slept on the slowboat (hard wooden floor and cold...). The next day, our old slowboat came, they fixed the rudder. So everyone in that boat again and after 2 hours we arrived in Pakbeng. We had to go on another slowboat and just made it before sunset in Luang Prabang. The guy from our guesthouse said, he never takes the slowboat because they are so old and it's dangerous... But the journey was really nice, you play cards, chat, read, drink beerlao's and I didnt had the idea i was travelling from A to B, but had a good time. I didn't want to miss this, but when the rudder broke in another place and we crashed in the middle of the Mekong and floated further with an uncontrollable boat and without lifejackets, things could have been worse..... |
| Pernette longtail driver Posts: 7 |
#63 Posted: 6/2/2009 - 19:08 We buyed our tickets at the official ticket office near the slowboat landing. The only thing you have to do is write down your passport number, they don't take your passport. And it's cheaper than buying from one of the travel agents in town. We went on the 27th of january and all went well for 4 hours. We left only at 12:15h because they wait for all of the people who cross the border that morning. After 4 hours of navigating the Mekong, the rudder broke and we crashed on the shore... The captain jumped off and waved we should do the same. After that, we took our backpacks out and after 1.5 hours another slowboat came and took us for 15 minutes further to a local village. It was almost dark and some of us slept with local families and we slept on the slowboat (hard wooden floor and cold...). The next day, our old slowboat came, they fixed the rudder. So everyone in that boat again and after 2 hours we arrived in Pakbeng. We had to go on another slowboat and just made it before sunset in Luang Prabang. The guy from our guesthouse said, he never takes the slowboat because they are so old and it's dangerous... But the journey was really nice, you play cards, chat, read, drink beerlao's and I didnt had the idea i was travelling from A to B, but had a good time. I didn't want to miss this, but when the rudder broke in another place and we crashed in the middle of the Mekong and floated further with an uncontrollable boat and without lifejackets, things could have been worse..... |
| wessatong backpacker Posts: 14 |
#64 Posted: 14/4/2009 - 17:10 hi all, thanks for your info. If you're reading this and you happen to be leaving Huay Xai for Luang Prabang on the 20th or 21st of April, drop me an e-mail at wessatong @ gmail . com . There are just two of us travelling but we hope to maybe cobble together a group of 11 and hire a boat (as Charlotte said earlier). Will be more comfortable if there's just 11 of us! |
| tazgirl longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#65 Posted: 5/5/2009 - 17:07 I'm trying to figure out the best way to get from Luang Prabang to Luang Nam Tha and back. From the above posts it seems it might be best to go by boat up to LNT...and bus or fly back to LP? Can anyone give me tips on travel time by boat between LP and LNT, and costs too, please? Cheers |
| brucemoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia  |
#66 Posted: 7/5/2009 - 15:04 Tazgirl Laoairlines.com show a flight from Vientiane to LMT, but not from LP. So, the quickest way would be to get to Vientiane (fly from LP?) and fly to LNT. But, Lao Air are expensive. The next quickest alternative is to take a public bus from LP to LNT. The bus runs daily via Oudom Xay, and takes about 9+ hours (depending on raod weather conditions). The price is about 100,000kip (add 20,000kip for VIP, which only sporadically runs, but takes about an hour less). The next quickest is boat up the Mekong (for a little way) and the Nam Ou to Nong Khiaw (7+ hours, and 100,000kip) overnight at Nong Khiaw, and bus (via Oudom Xay) to LNT (7+ hours, 80,000kip). The next option is boat up the Makong to Huay Xai (via an overnight at Pak Beng), this takes 2 days, (200,000kip), another overnight at Huay Xai, then a bus to LNT (5 hours, 60,000kip). There are a couple of other very circuitous routes, but I doubt you'd get much of a ride. For example, there are times when parts of the Nam Tha are 'serviced' by boats, but there's one section that you'd have to find a boatman to take (which may not be pssible, even if it was navigable). Another way of looking at getting to LNT is not to go to LP first. Rather, to approach LNT from either Vietnam or Thailand. I've written on this in my blog of my recent travel from Chiang Mai to Hanoi. Refer: www.travelblog/Bloggers/brucemoon/ Hope this helps. Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| Yorick longtail driver Posts: 9 |
#67 Posted: 9/5/2009 - 07:49 Hello fellow travellers, I make this trip very often as a Chiang Mai based photographer, around five times a year. - Yes it is often a matter a "good spirit" more than about wonderful logistic ;-). The ordinary slow boat can be fun sometimes, often rough, indeed. - If you awant another kind of fun/rough equation you also have the "speed boat". Those very small noisy and probably more dangerous boats have a dedicated pier wherever they are ( Luang Prabang , Pakbeng or Houey Xai.) It will cost you around 4000 THB (dec.08) for a boat / sharing is always possible up to 4,6 or 10 people for the bigger ones. The good aspect of this 7 hours rushing glide in the heart of Laos, is that it takes "only" one day to do the trip. - Another way to do the boat trip between Luang Prabang and Houey Xay on the Mekong, is a luxuary one, and i believe, it you have the extra cash, it totally worth it. It is a 2 days cruise, same as the slow boat, but in very comfortable conditions. you can check www.luangsay.com. Beside all this, and what ever is your choice, it is a wonderful travel to do either ways, and choosing a less crowded period of the year is always a bonus, I would try to avoid October to March. |
| brucemoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia |
#68 Posted: 10/5/2009 - 08:53 Hello Yorick suggests the fast boat... Fast boat on the Mekong - BE VERY AFRAID!!! Recently, I had little choice regarding riverboat travel on the Nam Ou. It was fast boat or nothing. I had a great buzz. BUT! My guts were in my mouth the whole trip. Not only because we were travelling at about 50 kph, but also because the driver could have hit a submerged object and at that speed I'd be minced meat!!! I agreed to the fast boat on the (upper) Nam Ou because I'd travelled the lower section the day before and hadn't noticed floating logs, etc. But, there ARE floating obstacles on the Mekong. Just relax at a Luang Prabang riverside cafe, and watch!!! To my way of thinking, taking a fst boat on the Mekong is a recipe for a fast end to an otherwise enjoyable life. Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| Yorick longtail driver Posts: 9 |
#69 Posted: 10/5/2009 - 09:08 Hello dear Bruce, dear fellows, I agree with you, riding the speedy monstres is potentially very dangerous. ... I was trying to state what is available ... but if you want my opinion ... The speed boats are not only dangerous, but also very poluting. I m not talking about fumes here, as they work out gaz more and more, but noise. It might a bit conservative, but i don't like to see this unique scenery wasted by a rushing arrow. Another point is that, speed is not what you need, I would say when you travel here. It is much more insighful for speed pacing westerners to learn a bit of the essence of slowness, the quality of the doing nothingness, and actually enjoy after a brief moment of panic looking for the control remote, one of the most penetrating channel on earth. ;-) |
| Rufus adventurer Posts: 434 Located in: Laos |
#70 Posted: 13/6/2009 - 17:03 Alas poor Yorick. I knew him well. |
| MADMAC mahout Posts: 1546 |
#71 Posted: 14/6/2009 - 15:49 Man I hate to always be the contrarian, but I love those boats. What an adrenaline rush! But I kind of live by the motto "If you can't get killed doing it, it ain't worth doing". I'm about to buy a power paraglider that are being sold here in Muk - including flying instructions. I love parachuting, so this should be great fun. |
| Skimonkey flashpacker Posts: 40 |
#72 Posted: 30/6/2009 - 21:07 Folks I did this trip last week 24th June, it was rammed (if you really want to do this trip but hate the crowds consider going the other way, from the boats that passed us going to Pakbeng and HuayXai there was almost no one on them). And as many people have said get there early and bring a cusion. fantastic scenery, the river is quite low by all accounts and there were large cluster of rocks exposed on some bends. So if the river was a couple of feet higher is would be easy to see a fast boat would not stay in one piece along with crew & passengers should it twat them. I also saw some bloddy big logs gently floating down stream. Our boat left at 11:20, on the Thai side there are signs says it leaves at 10:30. From what I could gather this is almost never the case. Just to make this point again, if you get there late you may well find that you have the company of a large diesel engin for 7hrs or so. the second leg from PakBeng to Luang Prabang is longer, or at least it seams so. Take it easy. |
| BruceMoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia |
#73 Posted: 8/7/2009 - 20:50 For those interested, I refer to a pic taken in April 2009 of the inside of the slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang... http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulandheatherfordham/3512358738/in/set-72157619192881370/ Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| Skimonkey flashpacker Posts: 40 |
#74 Posted: 9/7/2009 - 21:11 Again for those interested, following up from BruceMoon's reply I have posted a video clip of part of my journey on the slow boat on my blog. http://dancesouth.blogspot.com Next time I update my blog I'll be putting a link on it to travelfish. cheers. |
| BruceMoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia |
#75 Posted: 10/7/2009 - 05:27 Hey, Ski I had a look at your vid. Pretty noisy..... Wouldn't be what I'd class as a relaxing sojourn. Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| Skimonkey flashpacker Posts: 40 |
#76 Posted: 10/7/2009 - 18:47 Exactly !!! Personally I would only do this journey again the other way ALOT less busy which means you can get a seat near the front!!!!!!!! |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#77 Posted: 16/7/2009 - 14:41 Myself and three friends are planning the dreaded slow boat trip in October (25/26). Has anyone stayed at the Pakbeng Lodge? I know its expensiv(around US$90 a night but from stories of rat infested guesthouse rooms we'll pay the piper. Also found a company called trekthailand that promote a tour ex Chiang Khong taking a rented boat from Huay Xai to Pakbeng. Overnight then boat to Pak Ou cave then trek to local village for overnight. Then following day six hour trek to a place called Xiang Maen where you cross the Mekong by small ferry boat to Luang Prabang. It sounds great but from experience in SE Asia looking and being are poles apart. Has anyone heard of trekthailand? If so are they kosher? |
| BruceMoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia |
#78 Posted: 16/7/2009 - 15:02 robmacca May I suggest you make a brand new post with these questions, you'll get better replies. Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#79 Posted: 16/7/2009 - 15:27 Pak Beng has quite a number of decent rat-free options that are far cheaper than Pak Beng Lodge e.g. Phetsokxay Hotel & Monsavanh GH. Many new GHs have popped up while some old places have been rebuilt, the list on Travelfish isn't exhaustive. Most guidebook info is outdated, things there change so rapidly. Google for 'hobomaps' & look for their online Pak Beng map. |
| Layabout motodop Posts: 27 |
#80 Posted: 16/7/2009 - 19:12 I was in Pakbeng last August and the Indian Restaurant had just fell into the Mekong can somebody tell me if it has been ressurected or has it just floated away. And as wanderingcat says there are quite a few decent guest houses around I think I paid 200 baht and had our own hot shower and toilet. Must go back one day Cheers |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#81 Posted: 17/7/2009 - 08:01 hey BruceMoon Sorry if a newbie stuffed up. Bad day. There again Australia should have won the first test. Checked out your snap of the slow boat. Where do they hang the washing? Seriously me and the missus took a fast ferry from Phnom Phen to Siem Reap last year up the Mekong and across Tonle Sap. Great if you sat inside but hairy as hades on top. Then there was the gang plank walk to get off. The missus suffers from vertigo and we had to blindfold her. Can one book any of the Pakbeng guest houses in advance? I don't mind roughing it. I came out on a convict ship to Australia in 1970 - at least that's what it looked like. The company doing the trek I mentioned is called trekthailand. The boat they feature on their website is the same class as the one in your snap. I wondered if they hire one out or if you travel on the regular. boat. From Luang Prabang we plan to travel by bus to Viang Veng for the tube ride then Vientiane . Do Luang Prabang to Vientiane buses drop off in Viang Veng? And aside from tube riding is Viang Veng worth a stopover? Cheers |
| Yorick longtail driver Posts: 9 |
#82 Posted: 17/7/2009 - 11:26 Hi RobMacca, Hi fellows I realise there is maybe a few pieces of informations we can add in this thread about " the slow boat between Luang Prabang and the Thai border experience ". - Accommodations in Pakbeng are actually improving, a lot. But a lot of people are looking at the same moment for a room ... it is all about being one of the happy players. so. a cool hint is, if you are actually travelling at more than one person, get off the boat as soon it arrives and go get a nice rooms as your companions will wait for the luggages to be disembarked and then Join you. - Robmacca, the Lodge you are talking about is actually really nice, but I would not be surprised if it is exclusive to the Luang Say Cruise itself (the luxury slow boat). You may want to ask/mail them (they are very nice people) if you can stay there for the night : www.luangsay.com - I just found yesterday, the coolest maps of exactly (and only!) the cities we are here talking about : www.hobomaps.com. Precious ! Have a nice trip ! |
| BruceMoon mahout Posts: 1941 Located in: Australia |
#83 Posted: 17/7/2009 - 12:43 RobMacca, No, not a bad day or anything. It's just that more ppl tend to see a new post and so you tend to get more replies. Though, you've got enough here to answer your query. The pic I referred to was taken by acquaintances. The vid offered by skimonkey (immediately below) is also worth a look to get a feel for the journey. If the pic depicts what you've been shown by 'trekthailand', it appears you are booked on the 'ordinary' slow boat. I don't know whether 'trekthailand just do the legwork to get you on any slow boat departure, or whether you are allocated seating, etc., to warrant the cost they charge. My hunch is that they are just acting as agents for the boat company. If so, make sure THEY organise you onto the boat. There have been reports that stuff-ups have occurred. So, forewarned is fore-armed. At this time of year, i wouldn't be worrying about booking accommodation at PakBeng. There just aren't enough tourists to fill all available beds. The problem with pre-booking is that you pay top dollar. For walk-ins, the price drops if its low season. If money is no object, then pre-book. Yorick makes a good point. As there is a boatload of ppl all looking for accommodation, get one to look after baggage while other/s go secure a bed. As for LP > VV, these days, as it is a day journey there is usually a dedicated bus. But if not, they'll drop you there (you'll only be paying for that leg of the journey so they won't want to carry you for nix). Cheers ------------------------------ An Australian Veteran globetrotting... |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#84 Posted: 17/7/2009 - 23:59 Pak Beng accomm listing: http://www.oudomxay.info/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=17&Itemid=218&lang=en another Pak Beng map: http://www.oudomxay.info/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=71&Itemid=102⟨=en&lang=en LPB-VTE buses will drop you off in Vang Vieng . state destination when buying tickets & you'll pay only for that stretch. once on the bus, tell the driver/bus crew that you want to get off at Vang Vieng. doesn't hurt to remind them again further into the journey. helps if you know where in Vang Vieng you are headed e.g. organic farm, they can drop you off there before reaching Vang Vieng proper...if main part of town, the LPB-VTE bus bypasses it on a parallel road but they can drop you off somewhere along the disused runway rather than at the bus station north of town (saves you a ~2KM walk/tuktuk ride). see maps: http://www.hobomaps.com/vvmain.htm |
| irvinejamie newbie Posts: 3 |
#85 Posted: 4/8/2009 - 10:52 We did the trip in july and there was around 50-60 people on board. The plastic chairs we most popular and god moved into convenient circles great for groups. The timber seats are not designed for humans and you are better off on the floor. Only the locals sit up the front, which looked overcrowded. The noise from the engines did not seem to be a problem. Buy beers before you get on the boat! I would recommend the trip as the scenery is beautiful. My friend had a 20 hour ordeal on a luxury AC bus service from Huay Xai and had to change the tires 4 times on the bus...(this may have changed). I was weary of this section but turned out to be a highlight. Pak Beng is rubbish, but it's only one night. The following day was shorter on the boat, and Luang Prabang is a nice destination to reach after 2 days. Have Fun! |
| adisak newbie Posts: 1 |
#86 Posted: 24/8/2009 - 12:25 The Nagi of Mekong is back with their one cay cruise again.They will do it on once a week basis, starting Saturday Septemerb 19th 2009 |
| sullivanmarc newbie Posts: 3 Located in: United States |
#87 Posted: 5/9/2009 - 08:18 My wife and I did the trip upstream in 2006. From Luang Prabang to Pak Beng, out boat was roughly 2/3 full; there were about 20 Lao and 20 farang. From Pak Beng to Houay Xai the boat was just a bit fuller and much more Lao; there were, by my count, 33 Lao and 13 farang. Neither boat felt crowded, but looking at the downstream boats we saw a different story -- much more crowded and with a very high proportion of tourists. |
| starfish longtail driver Posts: 8 |
#88 Posted: 5/9/2009 - 21:46 hey! Did the slow boat in july this summer. Booked a pakage with the guesthouse and cost 1000bht. The boat was packed and as we were last one we got the floor at the front of the boat which proved better than the seats. Estimate around 100 people or so. Accomadation was ever rat infested and they consantly nibbled the bottoms of the raised bed.(however i think it worked out as Ł1 a night). |
| mmmmbeerlao longtail driver Posts: 8 |
#89 Posted: 8/10/2009 - 10:58 The slow boat ride is fun. Its a great way to meet people, and if your on the trail south, you will see these same people on all of your stops. Its always fun to run into people you have met before I recomend crossing the boarder on your own and buying your ticket on your own at the slow boat launch area. There are some places there to stock up on snacks and water and beerlao. Also I bought a butt cushion before but forgot it on top of the hill. I was pretty bummed out but ended up sitting on a life jacket, so save the kip from a cushion for an extra beerlao floating down the mekon |
| Saphir motodop Posts: 25 |
#90 Posted: 10/10/2009 - 13:53 I did the trip in July 09. Took the boat from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng, then next day to Huay Xai. Neither boat seemed too crowded. Wish I had taken a cushion, though, as the seats were very hard. Well, maybe I just need to toughen up. |
| LauraCronk newbie Posts: 4 |
#91 Posted: 15/10/2009 - 01:17 Hi. I'm going to Laos from Chiang Mai in Jan 2010 and I have been trying to find out whether the Slow Boat goes on a Sunday or not. We are doing a whistle-stop tour of Asia so time is tight. I've also seen mixed stories as to whether the slow boat to Luang Probang is 3 days or 2 days travelling. Can someone please answer my questions so I can start getting excited about my trip :) |
| somtam2000 admin mahout Posts: 5183 Located in: Global Village |
#92 Posted: 15/10/2009 - 07:07 LauraCronk: Boats depart daily -- slow boat takes two days, one night. Cheers ------------------------------ Siem Reap and Angkor Wat on your iPhone |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#93 Posted: 27/10/2009 - 08:54 Hi all Just completed the slow boat from HX to LP - yes irt runs everyday. First impressions. Was it worth the trip - definitely. Spectacular scenery on one of the world's great rivers. Was it fun - depends how much you drink. Was it comfortable - depends how much you drink. Our party booked tickets through hotel in Chiang Kong - problemo in that bus picks up all round town and got to us at 9.15am. By time you cross river, get through customs - easy process one us dollar extra on Sunday - get passports back and walk 800 metres to slow boat wharf boat is filling fast. Its now after ten but we find seats - all stories about seats true. This boat had 6 rows of aircraft style seats (luxury) the rest rickety chairs from a gargae sale that wouldn't fit the bum of a starving refugee. So all good seat gone and those already on board have spread out. No problemo - group are good natured and we are all soon seated. Its now around 10.30. And we wait and we wait and we wait. No explanations. Finally at 11.30 - so poor suckers who got on boat at 8.00am have been there all morning - we take off. Boat is chockers - 100 plus - few locals, mainly young backpackers and a few grey packers like us. Good size boat - whatever awaits you on the daay is what you get - food and drink available - at rip off prices - not a life preserver to be seen - practice a few choruses of abide with me. Away we go and within five minutes the Lao beer, whisky and rum is flowing. Great group of kids with the inevitable joker in the pack - Marcus from Derry. Lots of craic, drinking games. Everyone gets numbum or dead arse as English girl calls it even if you have a cushion which everybody does. So we all move around a lot and drink. Good for the numbum but not for boat which lists dramatically every so often and causes little crew boy to run up and down the aile moving people to equalize the list. Arrive Pakbeng after 6 hours at dusk to be greeted by chaotic scene of hotel touts and kids wanting to carry luggage. No lights at landing place. Walk plank to sandy beach then hike up rocky road to guest house. I figure they plan to arrive at dusk everyday so pax are stuffed after 6 hours on boat and will take any bed they can. Our hotel room is clean although pillow and sheets look like they are still there from last guest. No a/c but Generators go off at 10.30pm so no difference. Have a good Indian meal and talk cricket with guy from Chennai who has been in Pakbeng for 10 years. Must be slightly mad as Pakbeng is a nothing town whose existence seems to be down to overnight boat stop. Day two. We have been told to be at boat at variously 8,8.30 and 9. Indian guy says in his 10 years boat has never left before 9.30 so we have leisurely breakfast at great bakery and stroll to boat just afte 9.00. Different boat. Much smaller but with better seats - starving refugee could sit on these. So low in water that if I hold my arm out of window I can trail hand in Mekong. Same crowd as yesterday no locals. Boat chockers again. Underway at 10 to 10. Not so much drinking this morning as fkids are all hungover. But as sun braces yard arm Marcus has his first Lao beer and soon more hardy souls join in. Great scenery again and day passes easily if slowly. Boat lists again when we move around - this one dramaticaaly but we all know the routine so space ourselves out. Arrive Luang Prabang att 10 to 5 after 7 long hours. Mercifully still daylight. Touts less agresive no kids plenty of tuk tuks short walk up concrete ramp. Luang Prabang is paradise. Small laid back great architecture. Journey done. Suggestions. Don't buy package from hotel in Chiang Khong. Get tuk tuk to ferryt wharf pay 30 baht for river crossing and buy ticket in Huay Xia - cheaper and gets you to boat earlier if there are any decent seats. But be prepared to wait and wait and wait. Boat never leaves before 11.30am so it can arrive in Pakbeng on dusk according to our Indian friend and he should know. Buy food and drink at Huay Xai after customs. Not cheap but not rip off like boat. This is a once in a lifetime trip but a pleasure cruise it ain't. Be prepared for numbum, lots of noise and drinking, full boat - at least from September through to May. Also be prepared - as happened night before us - of booked out cheap accommodation in Pakbeng. Up market accomm no problemo but at 80 to 100 US for one night - and generators still go off at 10.30pm it aint worth it. Suggest as one blog did that if you are party of two one waits for luggage while other secures room. If you can get a group together of say 20 people - I know no easy. You can hire your own boat for 200 US a day. We found this out by talking to lady owner of another boat tied up to us while waiting at Pakbeng. Her and husband boat had aircraft seats, tables, luxury. So for 400US you can travel in comfort and when you think the regular trip costs about 22US per person it makes sense though easier said than done. Onward and downward to Vientiane. |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#94 Posted: 28/10/2009 - 08:31 Met girl in night market last night. Boat she was on from HX to PB broke down and they were forced to wait three hours in stiffling heat while a replacement boat was brought from HX then transfer on the river bank. Turned a 6 hour trip to 10. And she could still laugh about it. Don't you love travelling. |
| somtam2000 admin mahout Posts: 5183 Located in: Global Village |
#95 Posted: 28/10/2009 - 09:56 Thanks for the report robmacca -- great info. ------------------------------ Siem Reap and Angkor Wat on your iPhone |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#96 Posted: 31/10/2009 - 17:48 Almost forgot. If you succumb to a beer or three on the boat DON'T pay in Baht. Boat vendors could show Travelex a thing or two about currency exchange. Exchange enough kip at Huay Xai (shops and unoffical moneychangers everywhere - not best rate but better than boat) to get you through two days on boat and meal in Pakbeng (hotels in Pakbeng take baht). Once you get to Luang Prabang there are dozens of official money exchanges offering top rates. |
| magella82 longtail driver Posts: 5 |
#97 Posted: 6/12/2009 - 06:05 Hey there, I am quite prone to motion sickness,but it depends on how choppy/rough the trip is. Would it be worth me taking the slow boat or would I be better off finding an easier mode of transport? |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#98 Posted: 12/12/2009 - 13:32 The Mekong is a wide river. It flows easy and slow. The trip is well worth it but it isn't a pleasure cruise. Having said that, you would hate yourself if you didn't take it. |
| jaizan longtail driver Posts: 8 |
#99 Posted: 2/1/2010 - 14:29 I did this going UP the river in mid-December. Total of about 30 people on the boat, probably less than half the number on the boats going down the river. About 9 hours on the first day nearer to 10 on the second (ie a little bit too long). Bought tickets at the top of the ramp to the boats on the first day. Anywhere else in town was more expensive. Bought on the boat on the second day. No scams encountered anywhere. |
| grasshopper322 motodop Posts: 25 |
#100 Posted: 3/1/2010 - 05:19 We found the trick to getting good seats is to get there EARLY! And definitely get seats up towards the front. We bought a couple of the pads that are sold right on the shore plus used one of thermarests as a cushion for our back. Many of the people behind us just had the staff remove the hard benches and made comfy spots on the floor of the boat with their pads and packs. The crew did try to put too many people on our boat at first but eventually after a bit of rebelling - they added another boat. Spent the night in PakBeng - worse part was that boat dock was packed so we had to hike up the largest sand dune with our gear - steep and deep. Generators in PakBeng shut off at 10p, back on at 6a so make sure you have a headlight or similar. 2nd day was on a different boat for some reason - had bus seat type seats - much more comfortable but again - get down there early!! Food and beer is available for sale on board - munchkins will sell along the way when the boat stops - much cheaper than the boat prices. Had we had more time to organize and arrange it - we would have hooked up with others and rented our own boat - we just didn't have the time to get it together. And like someone said before - not a pleasure cruise but definitely worth it - I have a short video if anyone wants to see it..just email me. |
| Dubraatz longtail driver Posts: 7 |
#101 Posted: 7/1/2010 - 08:42 Hey Grasshopper thanks for the info. Do you know how much it is to rent your own boat and what the capacity is? |
| robmacca backpacker Posts: 13 |
#102 Posted: 8/1/2010 - 18:27 Hi Dubraatz See my post for cost of renting your own boat. Capacity is fluid. To the boat owners its how many they can pack on. For comfort max 50 pax. For super comfort you your favorite lady and a healthy supply of food and alcohol. |
| borisborough backpacker Posts: 20 |
#103 Posted: 24/1/2010 - 11:04 We did the trip 22nd & 23rd December 2009. We bought a deal in Chiang Mai - minivan to Chang Khong and basic accommodation at Nan Khong Guesthouse (buffet dinner, egg breakfast & sandwich lunch all included) (shared bathroom)(large Chang beer 60thb) and then ferry across to Laos and two days of boating to Luang Prabang (it didn't include the accommodation in Pak Beng). Once we crossed into Laos (visa USD30 or 35 depending on your passport!), we were taken by minivan to a cafe near the river - at about 10:30am. We stayed there for an hour (large Beerlao 10,000K on the approach road) and booked a room at Donevilasack Guesthouse in Pak Beng for 300thb, then walked down to the slowboats at 11:30am. We were told to get on one that was already crowded with about 100 travellers who had been aboard since about 9am. There wasn't enough room for the forty of us. The organisers decided that everyone on the boat should move back and this created about six spaces. We all decided to sit down and demand that they put on a new boat. One or two broke ranks saying that their friends were also on the boat but most of us stood firm. Eventually they loaded the rest of us (about 35) on a new boat which then left before the full one. Large Beerlao on the boat is 20,000K and I don't remember the woman washing her hands when preparing sandwiches after helping load people and parcels and the like. But what you don't see won't hurt you! We arrived at Pak Beng at about 5:45pm - the quayside's pretty steep so watch your footing with a backpack. It was a 400m climb up the hillside road to the guesthouse. The accommodation there was basic but still had en-suite with hot shower and electricity all night. After breakfast we walked down to the slowboats at 8am to find that one was due to leave at 10am and the other at 11am. We picked the early one which left at 9:30am with about fifty people aboard - not packed but not many spare places. Arrived at Luang Prabang about ten minutes after the later boat (??!) at 5:40pm - lots of hawkers there trying to sell accommodation. We managed to get a large room at the Symoungkoun Guesthouse (en-suite bathroom with hot shower) for USD15 per night. The boat wasn't cramped and it was certainly a "must do". You get a chance to talk to lots of people from all over the world doing different trips - really interesting. Don't forget to buy a cushion in Thailand (40thb) for the bench though - otherwise it'll be a numb-bum for two days. Grasshopper322 might have done the trip the same day! |
| climbg backpacker Posts: 14 |
#104 Posted: 8/2/2010 - 17:17 Hi, In Dec last year, I took the boat from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng on day 1. On day 2, from Pak Beng to Huay Xai . The boat on the first day was nice. It has cushioned seats and tables. The boat on the second day was a different story... :) On both days, although the boats were full, they weren't overly full. Everyone had a seat. Both trips took about 8-9 hours. We stayed overnight in Pak Beng and were back at the ferry dock the next morning. By the time we arrived at Huay Xai, it was almost 6 pm. So we had to stay the night at Huay Xai and crossed the border to Chiang Khong the next day. The border crossing only took about 5 minutes. |
| grasshopper322 motodop Posts: 25 |
#105 Posted: 9/2/2010 - 18:50 I made a short video of our 2 day travel on the slow boat...all the kids who came down to the river to check us out, some local kids on the boat.... |
| grasshopper322 motodop Posts: 25 |
#106 Posted: 9/2/2010 - 18:51 oh...here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNZuyZNd10U |
| hotchily longtail driver Posts: 10 |
#107 Posted: 18/2/2010 - 10:00 Trip mid January 2010 It's easier to do the booking in Xuong Xai (Houai Sai) 100,000 Kip XX to pakBeng 200,000 Kip XX to LP The usual - too many people on board so another boat ordered which left a very comfortable trip in the end. Boats were combined again in PakBeng to a larger boat with reclining wooden chairs - now this was luxury for those that awoke early to catch to boat. XX Ticket Office at the top of the road neat boat landing on the left. Boat supposed to leave at 11:00 however with toooo many people and a second boat, left at 12:15. Beer on boat 20,000 Food above average prices so bring your own Phonevichith Guesthouse Xuong Xai (Houai Sai) - great views of the Mekong They sell cushions - 10,000 kip; pillows 25,000 kip Good food reasonablty priced email: thavone_suthavong@yahoo.com Pak Beng Phet Sokxai Hotel (up road, turn left, then about 100 meters up the road) $35 a night Not worth it Bounee Guesthouse 50,000 kip per night - clean rooms, bathroom and cheap breaky Up the road from the above hotel Heard a first hand account from travellers that travelling from LP to Houai Xai on slow boat that packs were taken from the boat when stopped in a village - apparantly in hessian sacks when they stopped. Not sure if these were on the roof (I would expect so) If you want to try some really nice indian give the Khopchaideu restuarant in PakBeng a go (just below the Phet Sokxai hotel) (Malaysian, Lao and Indian food) It's not the cheapest but bloody good food - service a little slow however you can pass the time by sampling many a beer lao. Average food price 13,000 kip - 28,000 kip When arriving in Pak Beng it's an interesting sight after spending about 6 hours chilling out, meeting people etc. It's like landing at the airport - where everyone jumps up and makes a dash to be the first off the boat, only to wait on the shore for the baggage - there goes the chillout. |
| McPint longtail driver Posts: 6 |
#108 Posted: 18/2/2010 - 18:19 Hello all, Laos is an amazing, truly beautiful country. People are charming and gentle everywhere. The slow boat is a very nice ride. Just marvel at the mighty Mekong, talk to interesting people, read a book or listen to some music. There’s time for it all – enjoy the trip. If you think it is boring maybe it’s because you’re too stressed out and not yet in to the Lao wavelength. Just relax and go with the flow. Don’t count the hours until LP – that’s the wrong way to do it. The benches are somewhat short for westerners and the boat rarely departs on time (only when it’s full: 2,3 hours delay…). But all that talk about absolutely needing pillows is pathetic, really… Food: there isn’t good food on board. Mainly chips, water and beer… No noodles or Lao food and that’s a pity. If you can, buy some fruit and water beforehand. Also, along the shore you can buy some dried, smoked fish from villagers Boat Tickets After crossing the Mekong from Thailand (Chiang Khong) to Laos (Huay Xai) and once you’re done with the passport formalities (somewhat chaotic), walk or take a ride (motorbike or tuk tuk: 5-10 000 Kip) to the main boat terminal, about 5 km up north. Skip the touts, agencies and whatever, both in Thailand and in Laos, and buy the tickets directly in that pier (100 000 kip – Dec/2009). There’s a small local mafia getting rich just by squeezing the falang (foreigners). Food for thought: It’s not uncommon to be asked 400 000 kip for the boat ride. That’s a 300 000 kip profit (24 € / 32 $) – roughly the equivalent of an average two weeks work (The Per capita income in 2008 was $765 - http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/2770.htm) As in other places and situations prices will soar, for no good reason, if you just pay on demand whatever they’ll ask you for. Be a responsible tourist: be assertive, proactive and buy local stuff, directly from the source, at the just price– skip the middleman. Do some simple math and compare the relative prices of things. Bargain, when appropriate. Have a nice journey in Laos Pedro |
| climbg backpacker Posts: 14 |
#109 Posted: 18/2/2010 - 18:48 i agree with mcpint (pedro), when in laos switch to laos' time and just enjoy the journey. they are a gentle and laidback people. if you get the narrower boat with short wooden seats, it's better to go to the back of the boat and sit on the rattan mat provided. it's more comfortable and you can lie down. it's a good idea to bring food. i brought a bag of rambutan and plenty of water. on the second boat, they did sell instant noodles. so i guess, it depends on which boat you get. |
| somsai adventurer Posts: 405 Located in: United States  |
#110 Posted: 18/2/2010 - 20:46 I'd disagree with some of what is written up above. Laborer wages were $5 a day in 2008, per capita statistics are meaningless in an economy that is mostly agrarian. The boat owners wait in line to take people down the Mekong, they are lucky if they come up in rotation three or four times a year, so whatever you pay is stretching a lot longer than a day for one family. The comments on bargaining and a local mafia are pretty much over the top. There is just about no bargaining for those who know the correct price for anything. Locals have become accustomed to lots of rude arguements over price with foreign tourists. Many don't even deal with foreigners or if they do they come ready for lots of nastiness, and they charge accordingly. The slow (cattle boat)boat isn't even running now, as of February 17, 2010, river is too low, so try cramming on the bus, and look out the window of all the gorgeous parts of Laos you are going to miss on the way by. Should take 12 to 15 hours. http://www.travelfish.org/board/post/laos/9653_boats-not-running-from-huay-xai-to-pakbeng |
| danibek newbie Posts: 4 |
#111 Posted: 19/2/2010 - 16:48 As of Februar 18th I can confirm that the slow boat IS running. Pak Beng to Huay Xai the problem is that after about 2 hours there's some rapids that the boats can't cross. So you get off one boat, walk around 20 mins, then get on another. The big surprise is if you come in the other direction ie from Huay Xai. In this case boats don't leave till around noon then arrive at the rapids around 5.30pm. That means there;s no time to continue on the second boat and so everyone has to sleep on the boats or on tarpaulins that have been laid out on the sand banks. Since nobody is warned about this many travellers get very angry but in fact the atmosphere becomes something of a party and a new boat continues next morning, picks up passengers in Pak Beng (or else you switch boats there) and continue the same day down river to Louang Prabang, dirty but having had a bit of an adventure. For those who don't want to sleep rough a few speedboats come to the first boat on the night before offering rides to Pak Beng - they ask 1000Baht per person but will take 3000Baht per speedboat with some considerable bargaining (six in a speedboat is pretty squashed but possible for the 35 minute ride to Pak Beng). |
| climbg backpacker Posts: 14 |
#112 Posted: 19/2/2010 - 18:27 wow!! i just had a look at the photo of the boat from huay xai to luang prabang... http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulandheatherfordham/3512358738/in/set-72157619192881370/ it's very crowded!!! the boats i took from luang prabang to huay xai were not crowded at all. they probably had 30 - 40 people max. they were full, but never uncomfortably crowded. |
| idreamofdurian adventurer Posts: 312 Located in: Singapore  |
#113 Posted: 23/2/2010 - 15:41 I just heard a new variation on the slow boat scams from 2 travelers last night in Vientiane: Many people encouraged to pay in advance for accommodations in Pak Beng and do so.... boat stops about 1 hour before Pak Beng and captain says the water is too shallow and they cannot continue to Pak Beng; get off the boat and hike to a camping spot on a beachy area where vendors are already waiting for them; people are charged to rent sleeping bags, build a fire, etc. and then charged even more if they want to sleep on the boat. No refunds on the room in Pak Beng of course! Can anyone confirm? |
| wanderingcat adventurer Posts: 330 |
#114 Posted: 23/2/2010 - 17:28 #113: Downriver boats (if still running) have to stop before Pak Beng - water levels currently too low to clear the rapids. No scam here. Following is gathered from Vientiane Times article + bunch of blog entries (some links incl to photos at #13-15 here)... To get past the rapids passengers hafta walk some distance to another boat waiting at a village. Cos they set off so late from Huay Xai , by the time they reach the second boat it's too late/dark to travel safely on the river to Pak Beng. Either camp there, or pay $$$$$+++ for $peedboat to Pak Beng. Next AM second boat sets off for LPB, stopping at Pak Beng to pick up those who paid for $peedboat & overnighted there. From blog entries, sounds like villagers at the camping spot are trying to make life easier for the stranded (& make the most of the situation) by selling them food & so on. Of cos the passengers hafta pay the villagers for the stuff (unless they brought their own food & firewood?) & the cost of transporting it in. Initially felt that having to pay to sleep on the boat sounded a bit much, but after reading a blog entry about the mess that backpackers who overnighted on a boat made out of it, i don't think that way anymore...The boat is essentially the boat captain's home, whole family lives on board, not nice when a whole bunch of strangers get drunk & trash your home. Making passengers pay to sleep on board now sounds more like limiting/covering costs of damage... Scam part seems to be the agents (in Chiangmai? Huay Xai?) who are well aware of things yet continue to sell the slowboat packages, do not warn their customers about what lies ahead so that they can be prepared (bring extra food & water) or choose to do the journey by bus, & do not refund payment for accomm in Pak Beng. Whatever happens along the way isn't the agents' business as far as they're concerned, once departed from Huay Xai - out of sight, out of mind. Also, have seen one report about the boat setting off from Huay Xai at 12:30PM which is really late. Usual time is ~11:00AM latest. Setting off earlier obviously means getting to second boat with enough daylight left to reach Pak Beng the same evening - starting to smell another rat here... IMHO, it's a situation that the passengers (who paid for the package) bought themselves into... |
| wombatfuz flashpacker Posts: 33 |
#115 Posted: 27/2/2010 - 13:19 Just read this in the papers today Record low Mekong River poses threat to millions http://ca.news.yahoo.com/s/afp/100226/world/vietnam_laos_thailand_china_environment_climate |
Possibly related threads
The following thread(s) may also be of use.» Laos Slow Boat on a Sunday?
» NEW LAOS INFO SLOW BOAT/BUS TRAVEL
» Slow boat
» Slow Boat scam
» Slow boat & Nam Ou query
» SLOW BOAT FROM CHIANG MAI
» Slow Boat-how to get the comfy seats??!
» slow boat trip south
» Huay Xai to Luang Prabang by slow boat
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