riverspot
newbie
Posts: 4

#1 Posted: 10/5/2008 - 05:31


I'm interested in traveling from the Thai border at Huay Xai further north on the Mekong to Xieng Kok

Has anybody done / heard of this trip upstream? I'd be interested in any details anyone may know.

I'd be happy to hire a full boat for the trip if necessary. Departure time anticipated Early August

Thanks

somsai
tourist
Posts: 56

#2 Posted: 10/5/2008 - 18:51


I did it in reverse. The landing for the fast boat was at a wat about four of five kilometers upstream from Huay Xai. I believe you can also take a sawngtheaw (pickup truck transportation) up to Muang Mom which is half way there across the river from "golden triangle" tourist destination in Thailand.

In anycase if you are willing to be patient and happily wait for other passengers your fare might well be much less. When people seem in a big hurry boat drivers smell blood in the water.

Another consideration is that as of the last couple of months I've read reports in the Bankok Post of serious problems on the Thai/Lao portion of the river above Huay Xai. That would be below Muang Mom, so by road to that point might well be an even better idea.

Not sure what the fuss was about but it seems to have involved a Chinese casino operating in Burma without paying the protection money to the Burmese. First some Chinese army guys then a boat full of civilians were shot and killed.

No mention in the press since that time. It's probably ancient history by now but wouldn't hurt to check with people in Huay Xai and see what the general concensus is on that section of river.

Best boat ride in Laos. Makea all others seem tame. Big rapids, narrow river, fast water.

riverspot
newbie
Posts: 4

#3 Posted: 11/5/2008 - 03:18


Thanks for that - I might have to go and do my research again. I assumed the mighty Mekong was the same torpid creature that we saw at Luang Prabang. As energising as it must be, I certainly had not planned on going upstream through rapids. And yet I remember reading somewhere that someone had hired a slowboat to go upstream on that section of the river .... maybe I misunderstood.

somsai
tourist
Posts: 56

#4 Posted: 11/5/2008 - 07:29


There are larger boats that go from the Thai side all the way to Jihong in China, but you can't get off in Xienkok. I've never seen one but believe them to be faster and more powerful than the typical "slowboat". No international customs in Xiengkok, (except for Burmese and Chinese) We also passed many Chinese freighters on that section, I think they go only to the golden triangle, then back upstream.

I've also heard that the water level is lower this year than ever before, don't know what if any affect this would have. A channel has been blasted for the freighters. I've also heard that the water released from upstream dams is timed so to assist the larger boats on down the river.

If you do wander up that way perhaps you could send an email and tell what you saw to,,
http://laobumpkin.blogspot.com/

riverspot
newbie
Posts: 4

#5 Posted: 12/5/2008 - 04:37


Now you really have me confused Somchai / Somsai (?)

"Best boat ride in Laos. Makea all others seem tame. Big rapids, narrow river, fast water....." and later

"There are larger boats that go from the Thai side all the way to Jihong in China ......"

Do both these comments refer to the same section of the Mekong above Huay Xai?

As an aside I have read your blog and found it fascinating. The detail of your travel and the personal reflections you make are very illuminating. I'm happy to email you about what we see but ... maybe won't get to your lofty standards.

somsai
tourist
Posts: 56

#6 Posted: 13/5/2008 - 15:13


Yes that’s the same section. There are all kinds of rapids in the world, the shallow kind where you are in danger of running into rocks and also the big kind with turbulent water, these are the latter of the two. The Chinese freighters seem huge for that part of the river. The boat captains must be very skilled.

I’ve also taken boats upstream from Vientiane to Paklai in Xayabouli Province. The Mekong is a powerful river everywhere, up and downstream of Luang Prabang also. Slow boats on the way south from Huay Xai have ended up on the rocks. Even seemingly listless slow sections have a lot of movement. That section above Golden Triangle to Xiengkok is the most roller coaster for the money though.

People used to catch the freighters headed downstream from Jihong. I’ve heard you are now directed towards a specific passenger boat.

Fast boats seem to make the Xiengkok - Muang Mom run once or twice a day according to demand. There is a steady trickle of people back and forth.

Please do drop a note if you do head up that way, even if it’s just a cut and paste or cc from email to other. Always interested in hearing what is going on up in that section of Laos. Xiengkok has been on the map for quite a while yet not so many go there. There are obvious travel difficulties.

I just re read the Travelfish descriptions, I hope you’ve already looked there, if not check it out, better than any of the guides I know of. There’s even a map of Xiengkok!

riverspot
newbie
Posts: 4

#7 Posted: 13/5/2008 - 15:58


Once again I am in your debt for expanding my knowledge of "rapids" In my own defence (lest I appear to be a dill), in my part of the world "rapids" refers to the former rather than the latter. Hence my question seeking some clarification. Yes indeed, those Chinese Captains must be highly skilled!

Yes I have read the Travelfish contribution and found it concentrated on the downstream travel from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang - have I missed anything?? With so many links it is easy to miss out on a significant section.

You are indeed on the email list and I apologise in advance for the pedestrian content.