Thailand forum

This story: http://www.travelfish.org/feature/19 covers at least part of that route -- I did it by motorbike a few years ago -- Phu Chee Fah is stunning!

The roads are good, little trafficked and the only bit I'm not familiar with is Phayao across to Doi Ang Khang. See the respective sections in Travelfish for writeups on the specific locations and accommodation recommendations etc.

Cheers

Chiangrai:
nice GH well within your budget in Chiangrai is Baan Warabordee, just stayed there last Dec. near the night bazaar.

Note: am looking at an old map of Chiangrai province so maybe HWY no.s not accurate...

Chiangrai > Mae Salong :
two routes both with good views. could go up to Mae Salong by the HWY1089 Kiew Satai route & then part of the way down the HWY1234 Ban Pasang route, but instead of returning to the main 'superhighway', turn off to Doi Tung (marked as Mae Fah Luang on some maps). just before Kiew Satai there's the Akha village of Ban Lorcha if you are interested in a 'non-zoo' approach to learning about this hilltribe.

Mae Salong > Mae Sai :
along the aforementioned HWY1234 Ban Pasang route, there's a turn-off at the military checkpoint to Ban Thoed Thai (once home of warlord Khun Sa) & further on by not-so-great road Doi Hua Mae Kham - yet another one of the many 'sunrise over sea of clouds' mountain viewpoints in Chiangrai province (most famous being Phu Chi Fa). around November there's also a sunflower festival like that spot (forgot name) along the MHS loop. HWY1149 between Doi Tung & Mae Sai runs along the Burmese border, supposedly quite scenic with views into Burma, much nicer approach to Mae Sai than the flat boring superhighway.

Chiang Saen > Chiang Khong:
not done this route myself but have seen really beautiful pieces of Tai Lue cotton skirts from villages in this area.

Chiang Khong > Phu Chi Fa:
taking HWY1155 to Wiang Kaen, a few points where you can look across the Mekong into Laos, incl across the Pha Dai rapids. south of Wiang Kaen there's a turn-off into a not-so-great road leading to Doi Pha Tang. like Mae Salong & some other bits of mountainous Chiangrai it has sakura blooming in late Dec/early Jan if the weather gets cold enough, also a landmark called Pratuu Siam (Gate of Siam). Doi Pha Tang also settled by Kuomintang Chinese like Mae Salong. from there to Phu Chi Fa is decent mountain road.

Phu Chi Fa:
accomm there is geared to Thai tourists, don't expect any place with English spoken, & some might be open only during the peak (cold) season (& be fully booked on weekends & public holidays then). most of the accomm places are south of Phu Chi Fa viewpoint towards Ban Rom Pho Thong. the Rai Phu Fa place i stayed at is west of it, closer to Ban Rom Fa Thong. more on Phu Chi Fa (& also Mae Salong) from this post onwards.

Phu Chi Fa > Chiang Kham :
if you take the HWY closest to the Lao border (instead of the inland route via Ngao), there's a turn-off to the locals-only Thai-Lao border crossing of Ban Huak, on 2 days per month (need to ask around which days) there's a small border market there. further on is Phu Sang waterfall that is fed by a hotspring (i.e. a warm waterfall). in the northern part of Chiang Kham town, on the east side of the main road, is the beautiful wooden Burmese-style temple Wat Nantaram, worth a stop. not obvious from main road so hafta ask around.

Chiang Kham > Phayao:
if you are into scenery & views, at this point would recommend going ~1h southeast from Chiang Kham to Phu Langka & overnighting there, instead of a full day in Phayao. even though am the sort who loves 'ordinary provincial Thailand' i can't imagine spending 2 nights in Phayao town unless i have friends there evening stroll by the lake, one morning for the museum & temples...dunno what else. more on Phu Langka (actually the place with those amazing views is Ban Pang Ma O rather than Phu Langka proper) here.

I mean dawn till dusk... we're not planning on nightdriving...

Thanks for the directions, Wanderingcat, and all your other tips! I'm thinking of extending our stay in Northern Thailand and making it two full weeks. It's too beautifull to just pass by at full speed!