Vietnam forum

I used Cao Bang as a base for a day trip to the Chinese border at Ban Gioc waterfall, and a day trip to Pac Bo, where Ho Chi Minh had a well hidden cave as headquarters during the French occupation. Apparently, the Chinese blasted the entrance to it during their 1979 (?) incursion into Viet Nam. Cao Bang is a large town, with lots of accommodation. It reputedly has the largest market in Vietnam.

Ba Be is a very peaceful place to zap out. I took a trip on a boat along the river flowing into the lakes, and then onto the lake. There is a small island with a lake in it, where the bird life is incredible. The noise of the birds, and also the wild life, is almost deafening. Hordes of various types of butterflies there, also. Lots of accommodation at Pac Ngoi on the southern end of the lake.

I spent time at Cai Rong at Bai Tu Long bay, again as a base for exploring from. Took a ferry across to Minh Chau, on one of the outer islands. It has a beautiful half-moon shaped beach of white sand, and the locals were starting to build lots of 'cabanas' there, where they sold refreshments. Several hotels there if you want to stay on the island.


Can't say a lot about Lai Chau. Passed the town on a very cold, foggy, wet and miserable ride from Muong Lay to Sa Pa. The approach to the town from the west was three, dual lane highways side by side. It was on a Sunday, which may have explained why I didn't see a soul anywhere in the town. I understand that it is an administrative town, very new, and held no attraction for me.

Can't help with transport information, sorry. I bought a bike in Ha Noi, as I wanted complete freedom in travel plans. Sometimes public transport is not too dependable. It also meant I was able to travel to out of the way places not serviced by transport.

Hope this is helpful. Enjoy your trip.

I've just returned from Vietnam and Laos. The Son La - Mai Chau route to Hanoi is well worth considering. My wife and I were the only Westerners in both places (sometime between Christmas and New Year), and it was easy to do simple one-day treks without guides in both places (take a compass). People we met in both places were very friendly, and the few that could speak English went out of their way to talk to us. Both Son La and Mai Chau were 100% hassle free. Note that Son La is not mountainous in the sense that Sa Pa is - but at this time of year you'll be lucky to see anything but mist in Sa Pa, and the road from Dien Bien Phu is not currently in a good state.

In Ha Noi, I'd recommend hotels away from the heart of the Old Quarter if you want to feel less like a tourist. We found the cathedral area preferable. From Ha Noi you can take a train to Haiphong (again, very untouristy) and a hydrofoil to Cat Ba, which, though a resort, is very out-of-season in the winter (e.g. $6 for a clean, air-conditioned, ensuite double with large balcony and views of the bay). If you hire a motorbike there, you will probably have the roads to yourself as soon as you are out of Cat Ba Town, and the beaches will be deserted (but too cold to swim). We thought about Bai Tu Long Bay as an alternative, but when its damp and misty, there is a benefit to having a few things to do and a bit more infrastructure - unless sitting on a cold, windswept beach for hours appeals!

Ha Long Bay tours from Cat Ba are currently around $20 for a full day including a good lunch (and no guides, fortunately - you are left to relax and take in the scenery, which doesn't really require much commentary). There's generally some kayaking on these trips, whether you want it or not. Take lots of layers of clothing. We found eight hours more than enough on a sunny day - I'm not sure what people gain by doing 2-day and 3-day trips (visit lots of caves?), and in damp weather even a half-day trip could be gruelling.

Posted from within Vietnam.

You should try some ecotourism. I know of a community based ecotourism run by a non-profit organisation that runs out of Hanoi. It is in the Khe Ro forest in the Bac Giang province. Is is great because the project is still very small and has no funding so any visitors will make a huge impact on the local villagers of An Lac. this is the web site www.anlac-khero.com. I am going in a few weeks!