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Pho joints in Saigon - Update (and a comment on weasel poop coffee)
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Just a little update to the noodle soup places listed in the Food & Drink section for Saigon, based on what I've found in the last few days ...
Bun Bo Xu (listed at 4A Tran Hung Dao) is no longer there - the location is a bubble tea shop. But 3A3 Bun Bo Hue now has an outlet at 99 Pham Ngu Lao. A bowl of BBH Bo Tai is now about 26,000 dong.
There are now at least 3 Pho 24 outlets near Ben Thanh market - one on the east side and one on the west side. But the pho is pricey, a bowl is now 38,000 dong. Pho 2000 has also increased in price but is only 31,000 dong.
Pho Quynh on Pham Ngu Lao offers a tasty bowl of pho bo for 30,000 dong, and also has pho with beef broth but no beef for 15,000 (something I haven't seen elsewhere) which I find perfect in the morning to supplement breakfast at my hotel.
Oh, and as a completely unrelated point, if you love coffee, it's worth trying the "Legende" coffee from Trung Nguyen (multiple outlets, closest to Pham Ngu Lao is on Le Loi street), which is extracted from weasel poop. At 41,000 dong per cup its not cheap, but it's some of the most extraordinary coffee I've had. Definitely a worthwhile experience.
#1 Posted: 8/3/2009 - 20:42
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Thanks for the update -- appreciated -- one can never have enough Pho!
#2 Posted: 9/3/2009 - 08:01
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Stigron
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we're going to Siagon in a few weeks and I'm wondering if I can find a place that sells Bun Cha for lunch.
We're not going to Hanoi this year and I don't want to m,iss out on my favourite Vietnamese dish.
Do you know of any places?
#3 Posted: 9/3/2009 - 17:41
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Stigron, I've only had Bun Cha once, in a little cafeteria style hole-in-the-wall place in Can Tho, and to be honest, I couldn't figure out what to do with it! I'll have to give it a try again in Hanoi (any recommendations of where?). Do I put all the bun (noodles) into the pork and broth or just add a little pork and broth to the noodles? It's the only Vietnamese dish that I've encountered that leaves me totally clueless.
So I can't say definitively about where you can find bun cha, but I can give you some suggestions ...
BUN TA (136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St. - across from the reunification palace) does ALL kinds of bun. They have over 50 different bun dishes on the menu. At 50,000 - 80,000 dong per dish, it's not the cheapest option, but it's a very classy villa and the bun is definately good. There used to be one in Hanoi which just closed, and I'm a bit disappointed I won't get to go again before we leave Vietnam.
NAM GIAO - This surprisingly classy little restaurant down an alley at 136/15 Le Thanh Ton was one of my favourite places to eat in Saigon; the food is fast, tasty and cheap, and the restaurant is conveniently located to Pham Ngu Lao just behind Ben Thanh market. The pork on a stick served with rice paper and veg is fabulous, and we ate their Bun Thit (bun noodle with grilled pork) several times. Staff is nice. Mostly locals but some other tourists manage to find the place. I don't know if they have bun cha, but they might.
THANH BINH (140 Le Thanh Ton) - I didn't actually eat here, as the menu is mostly the same stuff as Nam Giao and in the same area, but it was always busy with locals, so you could see if they bun cha there. You'll probably walk right by it. [Recommended by ReidonTravel.com]
There's also a new TIB EXPRESS just east of Benh Thanh market, but I think that's mostly Hue style cuisine. More expensive than Nam Giao and probably not as good, but a more extensive menu.
I hope you find some!
#4 Posted: 9/3/2009 - 21:57
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Stigron
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Hello Amazon,
Our experiences in HAnoi with Bun cha was to watch the locals eat it.
we just chucked all the noodles in. Then added the pork and then the veges, bit by bit.
The garlic and chilli is a must. And of course a beer with it!!.
I've actueally cooked it at home a couple of times and the family loved it. A bit time consumong but worth it.
#5 Posted: 29/3/2009 - 06:53
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Stigron, we gave bun cha another chance in HaNoi and were glad we did. We had great bun cha, especially at a place at 1 Pho Hue, and made it our last meal in Vietnam. Lots of garlic and chili, for sure. I would be interested in your bun cha recipe if you're willing to share!
#6 Posted: 29/3/2009 - 07:21
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As you'd readily accept, there is no 'definitive' recipe (for anything!). But, here's some websites...
http://www.vietnamese-recipes.com/vietnamese-recipes/meat/hanoi-grilled-pork.php
http://www.grouprecipes.com/57934/bun-cha-vietnamese-grilled-pork.html
http://www.taste.com.au/recipes/12868/bun+cha+grilled+pork
http://noodlepie.typepad.com/blog/2004/04/bun_cha.html
But, in the end, if either you or I want Bun Cha, we just have to go back to HaNoi!
Enjoying the cold?
cheers
#7 Posted: 29/3/2009 - 14:48
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Oh yeah ... freezing cold temps and crazy jet lag is my idea of a good time. But seriously, it's nice to be back. I love to travel, but there's no place like home.
#8 Posted: 30/3/2009 - 21:55
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brucemoon
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I'm reading your post while I await the flight to KL, then onto Chiang Mai to then enter Laos...
Yep, home is special.
cheers
#9 Posted: 31/3/2009 - 03:10
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An Australian Veteran globetrotting...