Region: Phnom Penh And Surrounds> Province: Phnom Penh> Location: Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Eating for a Cause
Friends on Street 13, part of the Mith Samlanh NGO, trains and employs former street youth and serves up a delicious array of drinks and tapas. The food is healthy and varied, the drinks refreshing (try anything with soursop) and prices slightly upmarket but not beyond most backpackers' reach. The fun, colourful atmosphere and amiable staff make this spot worth going out of your way for, and of course, when you get the bill, just think of the children. It's very close to the National Museum, so you could tie in a visit to a rejuvenating break here.

Part of Mith Samlanh,Romdeng on Street 278 just near the Independence Monumentalso trains former street youth and serves up traditional Khmer cuisine from the provinces. The menu features almost 40 dishes and the portions are generous. Pleasant staff serve tables inside and out, where plenty of fans make eating comfortable.

Le Rits, on Street 310 just off Norodom Blvd has both outdoor garden and indoor air-con seating. The food is a good mix of European and Asian, with a reasonable value set menu for lunch. Service is prompt and friendly. An attached store sells everything from organza curtains to jewellery made by women trained by the NGO NYEMO, which also runs the restaurant. NYEMO offers services to about 800 'at-risk' women every year, teaching them practical skills like silk weaving, dressmaking, and service-industry related skills, and they also take care of about 700 orphaned or abandoned children every year.

The Lazy Gecko, on Street 93, is one of the most well-established lakeside restaurants, and offers a large selection of tasty, reasonably-priced western dishes served in a comfortable environment. In addition to offering general travel advice, they run a bus to a local orphanage for those who want to give back to Phnom Penh's poor without being taken advantage of. Definitely stop in here if you're staying lakeside.
Friends - 215 St 13, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 802 072. http://www.streetfriends.org
Romdeng - 21 St 278, Phnom Penh. T: (092) 219 565. http://www.streetfriends.org
The Lazy Gecko - St 93, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 191 2935, (012) 619 924.
Le Rits - 14 St 310, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 213 160. http://www.nyemo.com

Coffee shops, bakeries, delis
Jars of Clay, located near the energy-sapping Russian Market, is an expat-oriented coffee and lunch place where the food is reasonable and the setting peaceful. Scone fans will be surprised: yes, someone actually makes scones in Phnom Penh and they serve them up here.

Check out Cafe Fresco, a trendy coffee shop and deli, just below the FCC (and run by the same people) for a cool smoothie and sandwich in air-con comfort or an early morning java on the patio. They offer a large selection of hot and cold beverages, and great toasted submarine-style sandwiches. A 50% discount applies to baked goods between 17:00 and 20:00.

Java Cafe and Gallery is a funky, airy place overlooking Sihanouk Boulevard -- it has an excellent breakfast menu with generous portions and reasonable prices. Service, particularly at lunch, can come at a glacial pace -- but you don't come to Java if you're in a hurry. The interior has air-con and always displays local or foreign art shows.

The Kiwi Bakery on Sisowath Quay is a good place to head for baked goods, as well as western dishes and meat pies. At night, it doesn't have the best atmosphere of the riverside places, so we reckon this is a more enjoyable breakfast and lunch option.

Jars of Clay - 39b St 155, Phnom Penh.
Cafe Fresco - 361 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 235 222, (023) 217 041. Closed Mondays.
Java Cafe and Gallery - 56 E1 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 833 512, (012) 833 512. Open: 07:00 to 22:00, closed Mondays.
Kiwi Bakery and Restaurant - Corner of Sisowath Blvd and St 130, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 215 784, (012) 218 284.


Khmer and Thai

Amok Restaurant & Cafe does great, reasonably-priced Thai and Khmer food in a pleasant open-air setting on a quiet street. Menu is comprehensive, and vegetarians are well catered for. The Khmer curries are excellent. Often Khmer musicians play traditional instruments while you eat -- but not in an intrusive way. They offer free delivery if you're staying in the area.

[sa:] Restaurant, on Street 184 and offering tremendous views of the palace from its rooftop, blazed a trail when it was added to the Phnom Penh food scene in 2005. It has a short yet comprehensive menu focussing mainly on French/European food with a dash of Asian. 'Sa' is Khmer for 'white' but it could equally be Khmer for 'stylish, friendly, tasty -- and just a touch expensive.' While the tapas servings are a bit on the small side, mains are generous enough and the food was meticulously prepared. A tip to the waiters: don't tell diners the dish they're enquiring about is cooked in the microwave.

Khmer Surin is generally the first Khmer place to be recommended to visitors, hence the touristy feel to the place. They claim authentic Khmer cuisine and their menu is exhaustive, though leaves out market standards. The upstairs features soft cushions on the floor for the comfort of western bums. Service can be a little indifferent, but if you're wary of street meat, it's a safe place to sample Khmer cuisine.

Good for lunch or dinner, Khmer Kitchen is a similar setup to Khmer Surin with reasonably priced Thai and Khmer food. You can eat inside or out and it's a comfortable spot -- we prefer it for lunch over dinner. Service can be sleepy. Free delivery.

Set just across the road from the Top Banana Guesthouse, Setsara Thai Restaurant is one of our fave Thai spots. With a comfortable outdoor area and good tunes playing, Setsara will satisfy that Thai crave in style. Service is prompt and comes with a smile and the reasonable prices will leave you smiling as well.

Strolling along the riverside, you're bound to notice the big sign for Chiang Mai Riverside Restaurant. Don't be put off by the menu alarmingly full of photos as the Thai food here is excellent. It's spiced down somewhat for the foreign tongue so ask for spicy if that's the way you like it. Great tofu laab.

Directly opposite the Rising Sun, Fortune Pho does indeed dish out good pho, and at $1.50 a bowl, this is one of Sisowath Quay's cheaper barang-oriented spots. It's a simple, brief menu -- in fact we've never got past the pho. Friendly, dog-loving owners.

Frizz Cafe and Restaurant offers a great selection of tasty Khmer food -- some of it really is top notch. Service is excellent and the English-speaking staff very friendly.

Don't overlook Taboo next door, which offers similar fare at similar low prices, and attracts a lot of locals as well as travellers. We found the atmosphere a bit livelier here and it's one of the few places along the river that actually makes you feel like you're in Cambodia.

Also set along the waterfront, the Frog and Parrot is a good choice for standard, uninspiring pub grub fare. If you can put up with the constant stream of beggars, shoe-shiners and other buskers that the management doesn't shoo away, go for a streetfront table as it's a good people-watching spot.

Toward the Wat Phnom end of Sisowath Quay, Hope and Anchor does huge portions of barang and Khmer staples. Their lok lak is enough to fill you up for a day. Food is delicious, staff friendly and the beers ice cold. The setting is good and includes a reasonably popular bar with a pool table.

The Lemongrass is a beautiful little newcomer in the Thai food category -- one of our readers wrote in to tell us that the food here is 'absolutely fabulous.' We'd say the same about the atmosphere and the decor, and we're definitely impressed by the reasonable prices.

Cafe Rendez-vous offers reasonably-priced Khmer and western food, which isn't all that French despite the name. It's in a colourful corner location great for people watching and views of the river. On hot days they turn on the mist-sprayers to cool you down as you eat.

In the Boengkak Lake area, the standout for local food is Oh My Buddha! It's dead as a doornail during the day, but comes alive at night with a streetside grill giving off tempting aromas of chicken, pork and beef barbecue. This is one of the best places to try out the local dish amok, which comes in chicken and fish varieties in a ceramic pot with a side of rice. Great atmosphere, too.

Amok Restaurant & Cafe - 2 St 278, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 912 319.
Chiang Mai Riverside - 227Eo Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 832 369, (011) 811 456, (011) 872 858. Daily: 10:00 to 22:00.
Cafe Rendez-vous - Corner Sisowath Quay and St 108, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 986 466, (092) 729 797. sam@mobitel.com.kh
Fortune Pho - St 178, Phnom Penh.
Frizz Cafe & Restaurant - 335 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 220 953. www.frizz-restaurant.com
Frog and Parrot - 273 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 291 332.
Hope and Anchor - 213 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 991 190, (012) 261 167. www.hopeandanchor-cambodia.com
Khmer Kitchen - 41Eo St 310 (corner of St 57), Phnom Penh. T: (012) 712 541
Khmer Surin - 9 St 57, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 363 050, (012) 887 320. Daily 11:00 to 21:00.
Lemongrass Restaurant - 14 St 130, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 222 705, (012) 996 707. Daily: 10:00 to 22:00.
Oh My Buddha!! - 21 St 93, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 765 591, (012) 836 948. ohmybuddha_pp@hotmail.com
[sa:] Restaurant - Royal Palace Esplanade, 389 St 184, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 901 822.
Setsara Thai Restaurant - 3D St 278, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 191 1328. Daily 11:00 to 23:00. psetsara@gmail.com
Taboo - 331 Sisaowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 864 997. jmtabott@yahoo.com

Indian and other Asian

The Boengkak Lake area has half a dozen Indian restaurants, most of which are holes-in-the-wall, but don't let the ambience put you off -- several of them offer all-you-can-eat thali feasts for about US$2, which are consistently filling and delicious. We tried out South India Restaurant and Bar and weren't disappointed. But King Bar Indian Restaurant has a much better atmosphere and streetside seating. Regulars swear it's the best of the lot on the lake, so we sampled the 'special thali-' chicken curry, vegetable curry, yellow daal with two fresh, hot chapattis and a side of raita. We're pretty sure this is what they're eating in nirvana.

Raani Curry Leaf offers a slice of South Asia in Phnom Penh, doing up good Indian and Sri Lankan standards at reasonable prices -- though we found some of the dishes a little on the oily side. Serving sizes are decent, with their biryanis in particular coming in hefty portions. The restaurant is small and open to the street but comfortable enough. Free home delivery is available.

Located right by the Independence Monument traffic circle, Shiva Shakti is a top Indian restaurant and a very popular spot, serving up exceptionally fine fare. The interior setting is atmospheric but the few outdoor tables best avoided as they're marred by traffic noise. A good splurge for afficionados of Indian cuisine.

For more fair prices, head to Sher-e-punjab Indian Restaurant. We haven't sampled the food here yet, but we stopped by to check it out and the atmosphere was certainly nice, as was the drifting aroma from the kitchen. One Travelfish user says it's 'top-notch'.

Phnom Penh is home to about half a dozen Korean restaurants but, as ever, they exist mostly to service large Korean tour groups rather than walk-ins. This is true of Pyongyang Restaurant, but it stands out from the rest, making it worth a visit. The food is standard but well-prepared Korean comfort food -- pick and choose from the rather unappetising picture menu, but keep in mind that Korean food doesn't photograph well. Be sure to get an order of kim chi with your meal -- it's excellent here. The restaurant is owned and staffed by North Koreans (thus the name) and at about 19:00 your waitress will disappear and join the others in the main dining room to put on a floor show. It's a strange, sometimes entertaining, sometimes silly spectacle, but not to be missed.

In a class all by itself is Le Seoul Korean Restaurant, located between Le Royale and the Phnom Penh Hotel, and is probably only in your price range if you can afford to stay at the former. The interior is exquisite and prices high -- you'll easily pay US$50 per person to enjoy a meal here. But it does seem to offer authentic Korean kalbi and other traditional favourites. The extensive French wine list partly explains the 'Le' in 'Le Seoul.'

Japanese food is rather limited in Phnom Penh, but for sushi check out reasonably-priced Origami or high-priced Nagasaki. We found better value and some great food at Suzume Japanese Kitchen and Pub on Street 51. It's a clean, sleekly-designed place with some Asian-style seating and sit-down tables. The menu offers Japansese favourites like donburis, yakitoris, and soba noodles from US$3 to 14, with most meals in the $6 or $7 range. Sushi's a bit more pricey with platters going from US$8-20. This place is very popular with Japanese tourists, which is always a good sign, and the owner is Japanese as well.

Laid back Balinese style permeates Bali Cafe on Sisowath Quay, creating a relaxing respite from the heat. Although it doesn't make quite as good a use of its location as the nearby FCC, this is still a reasonable spot and the food and drinks good too.

Given the proximity of Phnom Penh to Saigon and the number of Vietnamese living here, you'd think the town would be full of great Vietnamese food. In fact, it's hard to come by, but two great places are worth checking out. An Nam is an excellent air-con spot that does great pho along with some super-tasty beef rolls. The atmosphere is rather kindergarten-like, with straight-backed chairs in pastel colours. Prices are good and service prompt.

The newish Maxim Saigon has an extensive menu of reasonably-priced, authentic, southern Vietnamese style eats. Since An Nam is way down on the southern river side, if you're craving Vietnamese, this is the place to head if you're staying further north. The owner of Maxim's is Vietnamese, but spent many years living in Brooklyn so speaks English like he still roots for the Dodgers.

An Nam - #118 Sothearos, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 212 460, (012) 812 168. Open: 07:30 to 22:30
Bali Cafe Restaurant - 379 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 982 211, (012) 967 480 F: (023) 218 671. royalalita@camintel.com
King Bar Indian Restaurant - 40 St 93, Phnom Penh. T: (092) 232 752
'Le Seoul' Korean Restaurant - 62 Monivong St, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 427 000, (092) 411 700, (016) 578 288. Open: 11:00 to 14:30, 17:00 to 23:00.
Maxim Saigon - 4 St 130, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 868 531. Open: 08:30 to 09:30
Nagasaki - 39 Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 218 394
Origami - 88 Southearos Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 968-095
Pyongyang Restaurant - 400 Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 993 765. Open: 11:00 to 21:00.
Raani Curry Leaf - 3B St 278, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 847 118 (012) 728 232, 016 326 528. lerinsreny@hotmail.com
Sher-e-punjab Indian Restaurant - 16Eo St 130, Phnom Penh. T: (092) 992 901, (092) 261 270, (023) 992 901. Daily: 08:00 to 23:00. srpp2003@yahoo.com
Shiva Shakti - 70Eo Sihanouk Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 813 817 (023) 213 062. Closed Mondays. www.shiva-shakti.com
South India Restaurant and Bar - A1 St 93, Phnom Penh. T: (012)316 370, (011) 638 574. Thouti_srinivas@yahoo.com
Suzume Japanese Restaurant and Bar - 14Eo St 51, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 800 367.

French and European

Fancy French dining can be found at Atmosphere, though at a glance and on a quiet day it looks to be a little lacking in what it is called. But we found the place really grows on you and it successfully draws a regular crowd of expats and tourists alike. The food is excellent -- particularly their white/dark chocolate mousse.

While it's one of the pricier restaurants in town, it's still not quite as expensive as Topaz. An outstanding French restaurant, this place disappoints only if you're vegetarian. They'll promise to whip you up something but in our case, it came in an obviously seafood stock. Meat eaters, however, could think they've died and gone to heaven with a huge range of dishes, including succulent steaks. Their creme brulee is wonderful as well. While expensive by Phnom Penh standards, it's an outstanding value compared to overseas. Very professional service makes this a great place for a splurge.

Comme a la Maison Delicatessen is a pleasant, hidden away eatery set in a garden terrace and has a laid-back but stylish French feel. The steaks offer good value, pizzas are scrummy and their salad Nicoise superb. The ice-cream desserts alone make the trip worth it. You can expect professional, warm service. They also have a great little bakery inside, with good croissants, and rillettes which get good reviews from our French pals.

Rega Hotel and Restaurant is a little hole-in-the-wall French and Khmer restaurant offering rock bottom prices for fabulous simple French food -- you'll pay ten times the price in the fancier digs in town. Excellent staff, though not all speak English -- French speakers will feel right at home.

Another great deal for French food is La Marmite. It has a cozy, relaxed ambience despite the plastic chairs. Very well prices, simple fare, with mains around US$4 to 6. Great Toulouse sausages with lentils.

Toward the river,La Croisette offers affordable and decent dishes. It has a good corner location and a lot of potted plants to separate you from the confusion of the streets.

Attached to the same-named small hotel, Lyon D'Or does reasonable French food and has a good, not too expensive wine list. Service is prompt and friendly. The air-con portion of the restaurant opens onto the hotel bar which can be very noisy and distracting -- particularly when combined with the funny acoustics in the restaurant. If you're after an intimate, romantic splash-out meal, this probably isn't the place for you, but if it's French food with a moderately priced bottle of wine, Lyon D'Or may fit the bill.

Though French cuisine dominates Phnom Pehn's upscale food market (for obvious reasons) the Spanish flag is well-planted here as well. Del Gusto is a charming, tucked away guesthouse and restaurant set in a lovely house with friendly staff serving up salads, tapas and a rare Phnom Penh find -- poached eggs in vinegar, along with other delicious all-day brekkies. Del Gusto's only drawback is that it's a little out of the way, though most of the tuk-tuk drivers know where it is, if you use the correct mispronunciation of the name, "De-goo-toh". Be sure to get there early to grab the best positioned veranda table (unless we beat you to it).

Given that the town conspicuously features a 'Russian Market,' you might expect a good selection of Russian restaurants to match. While the Russians are long gone, they did leave behind Irina Russian Restaurant, which offers a wide selection of solid dishes, all of which will leave you stuffed like a Cossack. Potatoes are the main ingredient in just about everything on the menu. We recommend trying the Seliodka with a few shots of their home-made vodka -- excellent. They also deliver.

Atmosphere - 141C Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 994 224
Comme a la Maison Delicatessen - 13, St 57, Phnom Penh. T: (23) 360 801, (012) 951 869. Daily 06:00 to 22:30. www.comealamaison-delicatessen.com
The Boddhi Tree--Del Gusto - 43 St 95, Phnom Penh. T: (016) 865 445, (011) 854 430, (012) 565 509. www.boddhitree.com
Irina Russian Restaurant - 15 St 352, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 833 524.Daily: 12:00 'til late. www.rus-cambodia.narod.ru
La Croisette - 241 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 220 554, (092)971 204. lacroisette@online.com.kh
La Marmite - 80 St 108, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 391 746. Daily: 11:00 to 14:00 & 18:00 to 22:00.
Lyon D'Or - 12 St 110, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 224 298; F: (023) 217 710. www.lyondorkh.com
Rega Hotel and Restaurant - 08 St 75, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 986 251, (012) 897 205, (012) 882 810. regahome@camintel.com
Topaz Restaurant and Piano Bar - 100 Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 211 054. topazrestaurant@online.com.kh

Other western

A green oasis in a dusty city, the Garden Center Cafe is popular with expats and travellers. The menu will satisfy both carnivores and herbivores, and their yoghurt is the best in Cambodia. The atmosphere is casual and the staff is friendly. We highly recommend their quiches, healthy salads, and spinach cream enchiladas -- although in our opinion their burgers are mediocre (others swear by them). 'They have two locations on Street 57, and Garden Center Cafe One offers free home delivery for orders over US$3 between 07:30 and 21:00.

The Shop serves up the best light western fare on St 240, if not all of Phnom Penh, with an ever-changing menu of delicious salads, sandwiches and imaginative drinks. Only gripe here is that the lovely staff doesn't give table service, when in such a small place it would actually be easier for all if they did. Wonderful breads, pastries and authentic Belgian chocolates.

Opposite Tuol Sleng, The Boddhi Tree is an excellent garden cafe and guesthouse with a superb healthy menu, featuring mostly western dishes with a smattering of Cambodian and Asian selections as well, plus imaginative specials. Service is prompt and friendly and the setting is very pleasant. It's worth a trip across town to get here, or at the very least, stop here for a meal before or after visiting the museum.

If you're staying in the area of the Capitol Guesthouse, don't miss out on a great, cheap meal at Mama's -- rock-bottom prices for disheslike shepherd's pie and roast chicken.

Pizza is widely available all over Phnom Penh, and the quality is generally quite good. When it comes to real, stringy, gooey-delicious mozzarella cheese, Cambodia seems to have diverted all the shipments here and left the rest of the countries in the region to fend for themselves.

Wagon Wheel has some of the best pizza in town, as well as an extensive menu of western and European meals. Its Toul Kork location is far from the centre of town, but don't let the distance deter you. Not only do they deliver, the German owner is always grateful for an order, and often delivers the pizzas himself -- in hand made pizza boxes wrapped in newspaper!

Luna d'Autunno promises the moon -- and, surprisingly, delivers. The owners have spared no expense in the garden area -- our favourite area -- building a huge outdoor kitchen and renovating the house interior. The staff are friendly and attentive. The food is good, and they can easily accommodate large groups.

'Le Duo on Street 322 is a good spot, if you can get past the apricot-fanned napkins in the wine glasses, which is a bit 80s, the pizzas here are very good -- particularly with aubergine -- and are cooked with a flourish in a wood-fired pizza forming the restaurant's focal point. The staff are attentive and the friendly hosts drift between tables making sure everything is up to scratch. You can expect more reasonable prices for something trying to be a bit more upmarket than the nondescript pizza joints on the riverside. Specialising in French, Italian and Sicilian dishes, the latter two seem to be what this place is about -- the osso bucco special sounds quite tempting. Be wary of their Calzones, however: they include the insides of your choice, but, unfortunately, they also include an obligatory raw egg.

There ain't a lot of Mexican food in Cambodia, but rumour has it airline pilots fly in from Bangkok just to eat at Cantina and it's easy to see why. Despite its simple decor and standard plastic tables and chairs Cantina is a welcome distraction from the string of nearby happy pizza joints. A jovial atmosphere and a favourite of local hacks, Cantina has good prices and service with a smile. Look for the owner eating and drinking out front with his guests.

Freebird Cafe and Grill transports you from Phnom Penh back to the first world. Their delicious menu includes western main dishes, tex-mex, pizzas, Asian dishes, an extensive drink menu, as well as arguably the best burgers in Phnom Penh (just order them well done to avoid eating raw beef.) A great place to eat or chill -- check out their free chilli every first Saturday of the month, afternoons from 14:00 to 16:00.

Kandal House is a real stand-out along the river for a great atmosphere and good western food. Daily specials, such as pork chops and mashed potatoes, come with a glass of the drinkable house wine. The pizzas here are very good and there's always a canister of grated parmesan on the table.

If you're hankering for a juicy steak, several places along the river will oblige you, usually for about US$14 for a 200g steak. For a real Texas-sized feed, head to K-West Steakhouse. It's in the lobby of the Amanjaya Hotel -- the place is never very full or very lively, but the decor is sleek and appealing and it does offer' big, thick steaks up to 400g in size. Of course, you'll pay up to US$33 for the finer cuts in larger sizes, but if you're hankering for a big, belly full of meat, you can get it here. The rest of the menu offers standard western favourites that are reasonably priced in the US$6-16 range. Free WiFi is available throughout, and it's a favourite hangout for the laptop crowd.

Pacharan Spanish Restaurant opened in 2006 and is run by the folks from the FCC. It has tasty tapas, though servings get pricey, so check out their special which lets you sample a wide variety of menu items (and includes a glass of sangria to boot!) Be sure to finish the evening with a coffee or espresso -- their machine must be worth more than most Cambodians make in a year.

Located just south of the FCC, the long and narrow Pop Cafe has some of the finest Italian food in Phnom Penh. Because of its small size, a server is never far away, though it can be hard to get a table during the supper rush. Expect to spend US$7-$10 a person including a drink -- a bit steep, but worth the price.

Just off the river, down the road from the FCC, the Rising Sun does standard pub-grub -- if you're after comfort food, you could do a lot worse than here. Particularly friendly staff are a big asset along with good prices. Breakfasts here make for a good morning after a long night.

It's not much to look at, but the pizzas at Veiyo Tonle Pizza are possibly the best in town, particularly their vegetarian spread. Their carbonara is great too, striking the right egg-cream balance for a change. A huge menu, and a good position on Sisowath make this a difficult place to beat if you have a pizza craving, although it is a little more expensive than the standard backpacker places.

The Tamarind is a popular restaurant with a friendly staff, one of the many great eateries lining Street 240. Specialising in Moroccan cuisine, their tagines are good value and their pastas delicious as well. Don't stop at the comfy street side seating, but head upstairs to their terrace. The food here isn't cheap, but pretty much in line with similar quality places elsewhere in town. Happy hours are from 17:00 to 19:00 daily, cocktails 50% off.

The Riverside Bistro is in a pink colonial house with green shutters on the corner of Street 148 and Sisowath. Its menu boasts 1,015 items covering Khmer, Asian, Italian and German food. The hotdogs nicely accessorise an afternoon drink on the river.

You can do much worse on the river than The Riverhouse Lounge toward the north end of Sisowath Quay. Downstairs is fine dining while upstairs is laid back, including private balconies and live jazz. Don't let the bow-tied waiters throw you off: the food here is not only very good, it's reasonably-priced, though the drinks, while also good, are overpriced.

Cantina - 347 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh.
Freebird Cafe and Grill - 69 Street 240, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 224 712. Freebird_bar@yahoo.com
Garden Center Cafe One - 23 St 57, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 363 002. Closed Mondays. www.gardencentercafe.com
Garden Center Cafe Two - 4 BEo St 57, Phnom Penh. T: (092) 206 582. Closed Tuesdays. www.gardencentercafe.com
Hungry Bug - 49 Moniong Blvd (near Boengkak Lake), Phnom Penh. T: (012) 573 736.
K-West Steakhouse - 1 St 154, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 214 747; F: (053) 219 545. www.amanjaya.com
Le Duo - 41 Street 322, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 991 906, (012) 342 921.
Luna d'Autunno - #6c St 29, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 220 895. Open daily: 11:30 to 14:00, 17:30 to 22:00. www.lunadautunno.com
Mama's - 10CEo St 111, Phnom Penh.
Pacharan - 389E1 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 224 394. www.pacharan.com.vn
Pop Cafe - 371 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh.
Rising Sun - 20 St 178, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 970 719, (012) 970 718. Open: 07:00 to 24:00.
Riverside Bistro - Corner of Sisowath Quay and 148 St, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 213 898, (012) 277 882 www.riverside-bistro.com
The Bodhi Tree - 50 St 113, Phnom Penh. T: (011) 854 430. www.boddhitree.com
The Kandal House - 239 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 525 612
The Riverhouse Lounge - 6 St 110, corner of Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 212 302. www.riverhousecambodia.com
The Shop - 39 St 240, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 986 964. Open: Mon through Sat 07:00 to 19:00, Sun 07:00 to 15:00. www.theshopcambodia.com
The Tamarind - 31 St 240, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 830 139.
Veiyo Tonle Pizza - 237 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 847 419
Wagon Wheel - #46 St 353, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 363 600-1, (012) 873 341. www.wagonwheel-cambodia.com

Bars and pubs

Girls, don that little black dress you've got stuffed somewhere in your backpack, and guys, get out your sharpest-looking, least-wrinkled shirt and head over to happy hour at The Elephant Bar, at the elegant Le Royal, where two fabulous Femme Fatale champagne cocktails will set you back US$6. Friday nights are most popular with the expat crowd.

Elsewhere is an intimate garden restaurant and bar, with a small but refreshing pool at its centre, and true to its name, when you're there, you really don't want to be elsewhere. The gardens are truly lovely. Comprehensive drinks and cocktails are priced a little on the high side, but the gorgeous setting justifies the cost. Shame about the boisterous Khmer music bar/restaurant across the road, but they regularly knock off at midnight. A good night out is their regular monthly 'pool party'. The availability of menu items, as well as their quality, is inconsistent and can be disappointing. For the moment we'd recommend eating someone else and heading here for after dinner drinks.

Phnom Penh's most infamous bar and club, the Heart of Darkness, was closed down in August of 2005 after a guest was shot dead, but is now up and running again. It's become a bit of a tourist trap since, capitalising on its past notoriety to keep pulling in locals, expats and travellers. Some embassies warn their nationals not to come here, but to put things in perspective, a tourist was shot to death after an altercation at Hippies Bar on Ko Phi Phi in Thailand in 2006, and no one seems to be too fussed about that. Six armed guards hovered at the entrance when we visited and everyone was well frisked and searched. Once inside, we found more guards, and the place was packed with a friendly crowd of travellers and locals getting jiggy on the dance floor. We felt a lot safer here than out on the street dodging tuk-tuks, but the rumour is the 'gangstas' get to skip the search at the door, and you best tread lightly if you encounter one of the 'guys' looking for trouble.

Nearby you'll also find borderline pick-up joint Howie's Bar, which doesn't really get going till after midnight, but if you feel like getting thrashed at Connect-4 by the friendly staff, you're welcome any time after 19:00.

Along similar lines, Walkabout, on the corner of streets 51 and 174, would be a homey Australian pub, but the atmosphere is brought down by the annoying throngs of freelancing sex workers at the pool table. It's a shame as the bar food is good and drinks are cheap. It gets sleazier as the night goes on, so pop in early for a quick one. Walkabout is open 24 hours and attracts a loyal crowd of regulars.

Another also-ran in the same category is Sharky Bar -- a large bar with a bunch of pool tables and a spacious upstairs veranda great for watching the street below. Drinks are cheap, but things start to get sleazy pretty early in the day, and it only gets worse as the night rolls on. You might check it out, though, for the Tex-Mex take-away and home delivery.

For a friendly spot to knock back a few delicious vodkas (with little possibility of gunplay), Talkin' to a Stranger has a loyal following of expats and is one of our favourite spots in the city. It's a great little bar in a leafy garden setting and on an upstairs terrace -- super-tasty food is also available. The atmosphere is congenial and gets livelier as the night rolls on -- very popular with local journalists, who are almost never packing heat.

Malis is an upscale Khmer restaurant in a beautiful setting, complete with ponds and coloured rocks. Even though it's a restaurant, we're listing it as a 'bar' because the best reason to show up here is for a drink in the evenings. Upstairs has air-con (and what are surely the most stylish bathrooms in Phnom Penh) and we found the couches outside near the bar to be a great place to kick back with a libation, while the food is nothing special. Try this place for a pre-night-on-the-town drink.

Gym Bar is a sports bar with two huge projector screen TVs and a satellite hook-up that gets plenty of Australian and European sports. They show mainly football and rugby, but the owner will tape and replay events at your convenience. They also have a decent menu, and a back-up generator to keep the on-screen action going during the frequent power outages. While they excel in screens, suds and snacks, they lack in air-con. It is always sweaty at the Gym -- but perhaps that's fitting.

Teukei is a funky little hole-in-the-wall, better known for its drinks than its food, though their pastas are competent. Popular with French expats, Teukei takes off later in the evening but is equally serviceable as a joint to meet at early on, although it's a bit tricky to find. Ask your driver to take you to the Narin Guesthouse and it's nearby.

Named after Iggy Pop's early 80's effort, Zombie Birdhouse is a friendly place with good tunes, cheap beer and comfortable indoor and lane-way seating. It's a small hole-in-the-wall just off Norodom Blvd near the Top Banana Guesthouse. Go here with a dozen people and you'll fill the place. Weirdly, it's closed on Saturdays.

You're spoilt for choice when it comes to bars in the Boengkak Lake area: try the Flying Elephant for it's two-for-one canned beers from 12:00 to 14:00 if you want to get an early start, and a free beer with every meal after 7pm. They also offer 10% off all meals from 6 to 7 pm.

Everyone showing up in Phnom Penh seem to want to check out the famed Foreign Correspondents Club. Truth be told, this place is just a tourist trap trading on its historic reputation -- it's not even a correspondent's club! On any given night you'll find tourists looking around at each other, eagerly trying to figure out what the big deal about the place is, and everyone wondering if everyone else might be one of those mysterious and elusive 'foreign correspondents' who must certainly hang out here and nowhere else. Of course, none of them would be caught dead here now. But all this is too bad, because it's a great place in and of itself. It's housed in a magnificent building on Sisowath Quay, with two levels of open-air, terrace seating. Service can be very hit and miss, and the prices are definitely targeted to bilk the looky-loos, not to please local expats. The trick is to come for the atmosphere and the views, and give up on the idea of running into a stringer for Time.

Well away from the bulk of the riverside places, Green Vespa has a comfortable homey atmosphere and a well stocked bar with pool table and sports TV. Staff and the owner are chatty and a small' library of guidebooks is on offer inside. Food and bar snacks are also available, with'limited streetside seating. They were having an unusual special on our last visit: buy three lunches, get the fourth free.

Jungle Bar distinguishes itself from it's river-front neighbours with its fast, laptop-friendly internet access priced at just US$1 per hour -- if you spend more than $4 on food and drinks then the access is free. As you won't be sharing the connection with a dozen other netizens, the speed is fast and the relaxing tunes are a vast improvement on the moaning tourists that fill many of the internet cafes. Staff are cheery and the mostly western menu is affordable. They also run a generous happy hour from 16:00 to 20:00.

Just off the main river road, Kit Kat is a hidden-away, rather low-ceilinged hole-in-the-wall bar where the friendly staff will keep you well nourished on beer nuts and cold drinks. The outdoor seating is more comfortable and better for people watching than inside. Indoors has a pool table.

The Metro is a new place with a sleek, black, modern interior. It didn't seem too inviting to us, but it's popular, especially with well-heeled locals, and we were impressed by the interesting Khmer-style bar food. It's basically the upscale version of one of those 'down joints' you see Cambodians eating and drinking at along Street 51.

When we say The Pontoon Lounge is on the river, we mean it -- situated across from Street 108 on a floating dock, Pontoon is a popular expat spot with a standard selection of spirits and beers. Some nights, it is a beautiful spot. But if the wind is blowing the wrong way, not even a ton of incense can defray the stink. They have comfortable couches, and it's a nice spot for a drink with friends. A regular DJ plays loud dance music, regardless of whether or not people are dancing.

Look for the bright green shamrock down on Street 178, a short walk from the riverfront, and you'll find Rory's Pub, Phnom Penh's newest Irish pub, operating under the stewardship of Dubliner Rory. Staff are chatty and friendly. Over time Rory's has developed into a popular spot for more than just a couple of drinks -- the collection of Irish whiskeys is a big asset. Accommodation is also available.

Rubies is a unique little wine bar serving up a good selection of the nectar. It's been taken over by new owners, an energetic young couple from the far-off and exotic land of Brooklyn, New York. In the past there used to be more wines on the menu than were actually in stock, but the new regime promises that will never happen on their watch. The prices for wine here are competitive with what you'd be charged elsewhere -- their pizzas are excellent and inexpensive as well. Rubies has long-been a popular expat hangout partially because this is one place you're guaranteed not to run into any ladies of the night.

Last but not least, billing itself as Phnom Penh's first gay-friendly cocktail bar, we found Salt to be friendly all-round, but the cocktails a little average though we did sample them soon after they opened in 2005. The decor and style of the place is funky however and you could easily lose an evening in here.

Elephant Bar, Le Royal - St 110, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 981 888, F: (023) 981 168. phnompenh.raffles.com
Elsewhere - 175 St 51 (corner 254), Phnom Penh. Open Wed - Mon: 10:00 to 02:00.
Foreign Correspondents Club - 363 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 210 142, (023) 724 014, (092) 680 664;F: (023) 724 014. www.fcccambodia.com
Green Vespa - 95 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 887 228. www.greenvespa.com
Heart of Darkness - 38 St 51, Phnom Penh. Open nightly: 19:00 'til late
Howie's Bar - 32 St 51, Phnom Penh. howie_bar66@hotmail.com
Jungle Bar - 273B Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 474 230, (012) 994 936. www.jungle-bar.com
Kit Kat - 3 St 108, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 850 102.
Malis - 136 Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 221 022, F: (023) 221 121. www.malisrestaurant.com
Metro - 271 St 148, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 222 275, (012) 906 706, F: (023) 222 276. tom_connor@hotmail.com
Pontoon Lounge - Sisowath Quay opposite St 108, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 572 880
Rory's Pub - 33 St 178, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 425 702. Daily: 07:00 to 24:00. www.rorysirishbar.com
Rubies - 13 St 240, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 823 962. www.rubieswinebar.com
Salt - 217 St 136, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 289 905. www.thesaltlounge.com
Sharky Bar - 126 St 130, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 211 825. www.sharkysofcambodia.com
Talkin' to a Stranger - 21 St 294, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 385 157, (012) 798 530. Open 17:00 'til late.
Teukei - 23 St 111 (Near the Narin guesthouse), Phnom Penh. T: (012) 707 209
The Gym Sportsbar - 42 St 178, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 815 884. randaljilaurence@yahoo.com
Walkabout - Corner of St 51 & 174, Phnom Penh. T: (023) 211 715. Open 24 hours. www.walkabouthotel.com
Zombie Birdhouse - 1A St 278, Phnom Penh. T: (012) 587 100.