Food on Koh Rong is almost exclusively served up at guesthouses, but there's nothing to stop you from cruising Koh Touch beach in search of your favourite spot. In other locations, you're limited to the menu at your resort -- Sok San beach has a choice of two.
It's worth noting that Koh Rong is not a late-night eating place, so don't leave it until the fish has run out or the cook has gone home. Be careful with any snacks you bring with you in case of midnight hunger pangs, as food which is incorrectly stored might attract unwanted visitors to your bungalow.
Koh Touch beach has the widest selection, with a choice of Asian and Western. Pizzas and pasta are served up at La Mami on the first pier, Koh Lanta opposite the third pier and Treehouse Bungalows at the end of the beach, among a few others. Spanish tapas is found at Ashia.
Paradise Bungalows is a romantic and relaxing spot with the widest menu choices, and Monkey Island and Cocos also offer a surprising variety of food.
The best place to dine with a view is at Sky Bar, new in 2014 and the cream of the crop for location. Set up the hill it affords sweeping views looking back to Koh Rong Samloem island. It's not sunset-facing (like all options on Koh Touch) but they plan to offer champagne breakfasts for early risers -- you can catch the sunrise here. The extensive cocktail menu and food offerings -- think scallops and slow roasted pork -- are the most upmarket on Koh Rong.
Beach barbecues are available along the beach in the evening. There's a couple of local daytime options in the village, at Happy Khmer Noodle and the pork and rice stall next door.
Koh Touch beach is also the only place with a lively bar scene -- the closest it gets to a party is at guesthouse bars like CoCo's near the village, and further along at Monkey Island which often has a fire show on the beach.