Eat and meet

Occheuteal and Serendipity Beach

The most popular bars in this area are clustered down at the Serendipity Beach end of the strip, while back off it at the top of the dirt road are a few more bars. The best restaurants tend to be in the blocks back off the main strip of Ochheuteal Beach.

Since you're bound to spend most of your time on the beach anyway, it's a good place to start when hunger -- or thirst -- strikes. For much of the length of Ochheuteal there are beach shacks and bars. There's a pretty rapid changing of names, so just take a stroll and see what takes your fancy. There's the occasional party and some very good happy hours for those who are willing to walk far enough down the beach. If you're shy be sure to ask if a place has a toilet before you drink ten beers.

Speaking of ten beers, Bar-Ru is primarily known for the late-night parties that run here. Being directly on the beach, it attracts a steady crowd and figures largely in the Serendipity party scene. They serve the usual cocktails and beer in a laid-back atmosphere. Bar-Ru also organises boats out to Bamboo Island -- on which they offer bungalows. They depart daily at 09:30 and leave the island at about 14:45. The roundtrip journey costs $10.

Les Feuilles is set two blocks back off the southern end of Ochheuteal Beach and does very good French food, with their beef especially recommended. Prices are mid-range for Sihanoukville. The restaurant has a comfortable and friendly set-up.

Mick and Craig's is a reasonable comfort-food option, with their nightly international cuisine-themed menus a fun diversion from other mundane choices in town. Barbeque Evening features tenderloin steak and tangy spare ribs, while their Indian night showcases a choice of reasonably priced set menus. The nachos don't come with corn chips or sour cream but they're still rather good and though the veggie burger is almost twice as big as the bun, it's pretty tasty. A pool table is a popular evening pursuit and sport events are screened as well. A nightly happy hour runs from 17:00 to 19:00 and again from 22:00 to 23:00 with two-for-one cocktails and 75-cent drafts.

Susaday sits towards the southern end of Ochheuteal Beach and a block back off the beach. Although Susaday does French and Khmer food, seafood remains their speciality. Worth visiting just for the unusual decor by the bar. The food is reasonable and service good.

On Serendipity Road leading to the beach, three restaurants have converged into one dynamic space Happa, Chi Khmer, and Ku-Kai (formerly of Victory Hill) each lay claim to a third of this interesting plot. While Chi Khmer -- serving fine Cambodian cuisine -- is tucked away in the back, Ku-Kai and Happa share the spacious and airy front area, with just a short wall separating the two Asian cuisines.

From Ku-Kai, you can see the various teppanyaki selections brought to tables at Happa -- piping hot medleys that come with choice of sauce and meat -- and at Happa, you can catch a glimpse of the rice bowls and tempura whisked by at Ku-Kai (unfortunately they didn't bring the sushi with them when they moved). Inevitably, whichever you choose, you'll want to try the other the following night. Neither will disappoint.

 

The food at Unkle Bob's is very good, but the service is oh so slow. On a Saturday night expect to wait at least an hour for even the simplest dish, and multiple orders can easily take a decade. Frustrating as it is, when it finally comes it's very good, and the staff are lovely. They also can arrange day trips with snorkelling or scuba diving and have a decent array of fan and air-con rooms.

The Golden Lion Plaza, located near the Golden Lion traffic circle, boasts ten bars that never close. "Plaza" overstates this venture's sophistication -- an assembly of bamboo businesses that line a dead end street. Still, a pub crawl has never been easier -- it's almost like a mall food court. There's enough variety -- an Irish joint, a sports bar, a music venue -- that everyone in your group should find something to their liking.

Utopia has staked out the choice corner where Serendipity Beach Road meets Mithona. Their terrific location and drink specials have helped them build a loyal following. The bar, a dark-but-not-too-dark venue, hums with a good soundtrack and casual conversation. There's a comfy loft and the obligatory pool table. Utopia is a good place to chill early and party late.

Restaurants and bars line every metre of beachfront property on the more sophisticated Serendipity and its sophomoric neighbour Ochheuteal. You can stumble from one drink special to another. It wasn't always this way. Back in 2002, Chiva's Shack was one of the first to set up camp. Despite increased competition, Chiva's is still relevant today. Beach parties every Tuesday and Friday are less popular than their full moon parties, but still worth a walk to the end of Ochheuteal.

Bar Ru The far end of Ochheuteal, Sihanoukville. T: (012) 388 860. Open daily, 9:00-late.
Les Feuilles Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. T: (034) 933 910. Open daily, 7:30-22:00.
Mick and Craig's Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. T: (012) 727 740. Open daily, 7:00-late.
Susaday Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. T: (034) 933 907. Open daily, 7:00-late.
Chi Khmer/Happa/Ku-Kai Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. T: (012) 728 901 ; (034) 934 380. Open daily, 17:00-22:00.
Unkle Bob's Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. T: (012) 752 840. Open daily, 7:00-late.
Chiva's Shack the end of Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville. Tel: (012) 360 911. Open daily, 7:00-late. www.chiva-shack.com
Golden Lion Plaza Kanda St, Sihanoukville. T: (016) 432 161. Open daily, 24 hours.
Utopia Serendipity Beach Rd, Sihanoukville. T: (034) 934 319. Open daily, 7:00-late. www.utopiagathering.com