Eat and meet

Battambang

For a town of its size, Battambang has a good range of eateries -- both for Asian and western food. If you're craving a big western breakfast, Sunrise Coffee House near the Royal Hotel, is the place for you. Huge portions and not unreasonable prices make this the perfect place to fill up before embarking on a full day of exploring Battambang province. But the great hash browns, fresh cinnamon rolls, lovely coffee and comfortable kerbside seating might keep you here for longer than you expect. They also sell bible covers -- US$6 for a big bible and $4 for a small one! If you'd prefer a local breakfast, then White Rose, just off the river from the Angkor Hotel serves up both Khmer and limited western breakfasts. It's also open for lunch and dinner, but mornings are busiest.

For lunch and dinner, the Smokin Pot has great Thai food. Owner Vannak grew up in the refugee camps on the Thai border, thus his cuisine choice. While his food is marginally more expensive than some of the backpacker restaurants in town, it's worth every penny. As Vannak says: Once they eat here, they eat here every time -- but its difficult to get them here once!

 

Another nearby option is the huge Chinese place (forgot the name) next to White Rose, which does a roaring trade at lunchtime, serving up an array of curries, stir-fries and other Khmer and Chinese dishes. Cheap but lacking in atmosphere.

Along the river a small market emerges late afternoon selling a range of Khmer food, with an emphasis on bugs and eggs. They also do a range of fruit juices, so even though you may not be up for a banquet of critters and cheap beer, this can be a good spot.

For a drink, the Bus Stop in the centre of town has cold drinks and WiFi access. Further along the river sits the Riverside Bar is where we find ourselves way too often whenever in Battambang. Its setting is in an old wooden house by the river with a spacious veranda offering lush views. Friendly and very chatty staff, the pool table and the very good western food all keep drawing us back. Recommended. Note it's a good walk from the centre of Battambang, so taking a moto is a good idea.