Photo: Temple ceremony at Pura Luhur Lempuyang.

Eat and meet

Located in the Tirta Gangga carpark, Good Karma gets a lot of business from those on daytrips with drivers. The open-air pavilion is located in a peaceful spot right next to the terraced ricefield and the food is of a good standard with prices slightly inflated due to the popularity of nearby Tirta Gangga. The main items on the menu are Indonesian staples, but they also offer jaffles and a range of salads washed in boiling water. Drinks include juices, milkshakes, soft drinks and a large selection of hot drinks. The restaurant also serves as the reception for the Good Karma rooms located across the ricefield.

In the Tirta Gangga car park are a variety of stalls selling bottled water, soft drinks and snacks. But tucked away at the side of many of these stalls are local meals of bakso, sate and nasi campur which many drivers will tuck into while you are inside Tirta Gangga. These meals are very tasty, very cheap and worth a try if you're after something a little more authentic. Of course, vendors are tourist-savvy and will extort every last rupiah you are willing to part with, but a general guide is that 10,000 rupiah for a meal is a local price and anything more than this is a tourist premium (which you may not be able to get out of paying). There are also tropical fruit sellers here offering rambutan, salak, mangosteen, jackfruit and passionfruit.

As can be expected of a tourist attraction such as Tirta Gangga, there are bound to be eateries that try and cater to the hordes that bus in and out every day. Genta Bali Warung is one of those places. They specialise in Indonesian dishes, but Westernise them in order to satisfy the lowest common denominator — and it really is common. The food is average, the prices not too bad, the setting pleasant, but you will probably leave feeling a little dissatisfied.

For those in the Amlapura area wanting more choice, a trip to the town centre in the evening can be rewarding. At the southern end of Jalan Gajah Mada about a dozen food sellers set up stalls offering everything from gado gado to es campur. The meals here are very cheap and a gado gado should set you back no more than 7,000 rupiah. Dishes with meat start from 10,000 rupiah.

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Where to next?

Where are you planning on heading to after Amlapura? Here are some spots commonly visited from here, or click here to see a full destination list for Indonesia.

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