Region: Northern Laos> Province: Luang Prabang> Location: Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang

In a side street adjacent to the Royal Museum, and with outside tables presenting a view of the Royal Wat, Phousi Restaurant has been around for years. It has a good reputation, and rightly so. They do a wide range of Lao and specifically Luang Prabang dishes, both delicious and cheap. Highly recommended are the Chu Chi Pa, LPB chicken and eggplant with spicy sauce, and bamboo or lemongrass stuffed with minced pork. They also have a full drink list.

Several small open-air restaurants line the banks of the Mekong. View Kheam Khong has a seating area by the roadside, but also a larger, paper lantern-lit section further down the riverbank, towards the water and off the road. The menu is not as extensive as the other restaurants, but they serve traditional and local dishes very well, in a tourist-friendly setting. Evidence of the authenticity of their dishes and their fair prices can be seen in the number of Lao people often eating here. Highly recommended is the Luang Prabang sausage, the minced pork and tofu soup, and 'laap', a salad of minced meat and herbs. They do have a tofu version, but the pieces are a bit large and deeply fried).

A long standing favourite with tour groups and independent travellers alike, L'Elephant serves mainly French style western food, and does it very well. Vegetarian options are well covered, as are good quality steaks and an Asian food set menu. Not for those on a budget, but well worth it for the sophisticated ambience and fine dining.

Under the umbrella of the 3 Nagas Boutique Hotel, 3 Nagas and Mango 3 Nagas are housed in old heritage listed buildings and face each other in a blaze of warm lighting on the main street. One side serves authentic Lao food, while Mango 3 Nagas across the road serves fusion Asian and Western cuisine. The Lao side does an excellent job of presenting a menu of truly authentic Lao food, a rarity in Lao restaurants. While the prices are much higher than usually expected around Laos, the presentation and quality of the ingredients is first-rate.

In an elegant setting looking out over the Nam Khan river, The Apsara arguably serves the best food in Luang Prabang. A limited but mouth watering selection of Asian and western fusion dishes are on offer, with an extensive international wine list. Definitely recommended for their whole fish in Tamarind sauce.

Tucked away behind Phousi Mountain is L'etranger Books and Tea -- a charming bookshop, tearoom and gallery where you can buy, exchange or rent books, check out the current art installation or sit upstairs and read or chat. They show a movie each night at 19:00, claiming to favour art over action. A selection of light fare is served all day as well as an extensive tea and drink menu. A great spot to chill out in the calm of the tea room with a snack and reading material while escaping the heat.

Centrally located, Tamnak Lao – Three Elephants Restaurant is one of the best restaurants on the main tourist strip. One of the few restaurants in town to serve a full range of Lao dishes, they are very popular with tour groups and can get very busy, so be sure to pack your patience. It's difficult to choose between fish steamed in banana leaves with lemongrass, the green curry with chicken and vegetables, or the eggplant with minced pork and garlic. They now also offer a cooking class, running for a full day at $25, it is best to book in advance. They also have a highly celebrated sister restaurant in Vientiane.

If you're looking to experience genuine Lao food, then a great find is Tamarind: A Taste of Laos, directly facing beautiful Wat Nong temple in the old quarter. Open only during the day, they specialise in tasting platters for sampling a range of Lao foods that you won't see in regular cafes, including original fruit drinks unlike anything else in Luang Prabang. Also worth noting are the traditional Lao style meals that can be ordered a day in advance. Certainly worth a try. Disclaimer: Tamarind: A taste of Laos is owned by a former Travelfish researcher.

Bars and entertainment
The backpackers flock to Hive, with its loud thumping music and live DJ. The front holds a small terrace with low tables perfect for a chat on a balmy night, and respite from the heat inside. A large cocktail list features the usual suspects as well as lower priced versions of the classics with a twist: they are powered by the local 'lao lao' rice whisky. They hold regular themed parties, the best being at Halloween, New Year's Eve and Christmas, when the decorations transform the usual bar atmosphere into a festive and imaginative art installation made from recycled materials.

Once known as Cruisin' Gate, Khop Chai did a turn as a gay club before taking on its current persona under new ownership. Now catering to a more mixed crowd, they still hold lady boy shows on special occasions. The drinks list is extensive, with an emphasis on Lao alcohol. Take-away canned beer is also available at a price.

Associated with Khop Chai across the road, Lao Lao Garden took off in early 2006 and is a great spot for backpacker fun, with an open air layout, nightly bonfires and occasional live performance art (bring instruments and juggling balls to join in). They serve a wide range of food from traditional Lao-style 'barbecue' to western burgers and buffalo steaks.